Да я в принципе и так затачиваю без этих лайфх.аков сверла до 80 диаметра без проблем. И режут отлично не разбивает и стойкость отличная. А так для начинающих отличное видео. Лайк однозначно.
When I sharpen a drill I use a very similar method as the second one you demonstrated. It has always given excellent results but it is nice to see someone else using the same method. Great video
After 50 years of drill sharpening, that's the first time I've ever seen masking tape used to show the angle. I was taught to use two hex nuts to get the 120 degrees What a great idea to teach people how to set drill to wheel. I do very little woodworking and have never used pocket hole construction, that was a very interesting modification that could be used to counter bore holes for cap-screws (Allen head) ドリル研ぎを始めて50年になりますが、マスキングテープで角度がわかるのを見たのは初めてです。 120度にするために2つの六角ナットを使うように教えられました ドリルをホイールにセットする方法を人々に教えるのは素晴らしいアイデアです。 私は木工をほとんど行わず、ポケットホール構造を使用したことがありませんが、キャップスクリュー(六角レンチ)のざぐり穴に使用できる非常に興味深い変更でした
As much as I love words, this video is a great example and reminder that sometimes more can be communicated without them. One of the very best (and clearest) drill sharpening instructionals out there. Thank you sir and very well done.
As usual. As expected. One best way to teach. A noble way to learn: Watch and see, recognise, understand and memorize. Apply and you'll become wiser again. Because applied knowledge becomes wisdom.
All good tips, as a retired toolmaker spent many hours sharpening drills by hand. Always thinned the web it can be done with the edge of the grinding wheel. Only tip I saw that should always be avoided is the drilling of sheet metal, never hold it with your hand clamp it down. Had a toolmaker off almost a year after a piece grabbed and climbed up the bit and sliced his hand open.
"the drilling of sheet metal" Well... Making holes sheet metal with a conventional two flute drill was never considered a clever thing to do, and a common piece of advice for drilling in general is "You can hold the workpiece by hand if you can break the drill bit by hand... A good basic rule... The problem with drilling sheet metal with a twist drill is that the point penetrates the material before the lip corner enters the material, so there's nothing supporting and centralising the drill bit. That's why you get oddly shaped holes, when drilling sheet metal. (that, and badly off hand sharpened drill bits... Anyway... If a more suitable tool is not available... (Rotabroach, Rotobor, hole saw, punch laser, other) Try "rag drilling" set up your drilling machine correctly to position the hole where you want it, and start drilling, but don't penetrate, leave a dimple, then... get some squares of rag. (Denim's good ) a bit bigger than the hole size, and interpose them between the drill bit and the workpiece, then drill. The rag will fill the drill clearance, offering 1) radial support to the drill and 2) resistance to the drill's "pulling in" to the workpiece. On that last issue... use the drilling machine's quill clamp as a brake, to avoid "pulling in" There's always a bit of backlash in the quill's rack and pinion drive. I have used, in the absence of denim, emery cloth, which works, but doesn't do drill bits any favours... No one else remember "rag drilling"?
@@robertlawson8572 my whole point was based on the size of the bit and piece of metal being drilled in the video. I worked as a toolmaker for 40 years managing build and stamping operations. we made shims for punches and die sections by the thousands each year. you can avoid the accident by using safe measures. a clamp is a good safety measure. even a step drill is much better for drilling clean holes in sheet metal but when it grabs the work piece and you are holding it by hand lookout! Fingers don't grow back, just wanted to bring to peoples attention when i see a potential accident about to happen. remember there are lots of people that see a youtube video and think that it's a best practice to use when they go to do something. just my 2 cents.
@@GaryHaines-d9y Sorry, pal, you seem to have bit... I just added a basic rule of drilling to your statement that clamping is necessary... Now it's lost in the noise. So... to recap, If you can break the drill by hand, you can hold the workpiece by hand... (If you must) It really sets very low limits on the drill size. We all have our old war stories about drilling incidents... I forgot to mention at the time about modifying the drill's rake to zero, or close to zero, to avoid sheet metal pulling up... Works well on spring steel, too... Same as putting a brass lip on a drill...
@@GaryHaines-d9y I did respond earlier, my post seems to have gone... I hate the use of two flute drills for SMW, clamps or no clamps. We did have "Brad Rad" step drills for lightening holes in A/C work, in the seventies, but, though the zero rake was good for avoidance of the workpiece rising, the zero rake was not good for light alloys. Of course, sometimes it's necessary to drill thin stuff, or even stuff that's thin and hard, like spring steel sections for attachment screws... (punching introduces stresses that lead to failure, plus drills are easier to sharpen than punches... Then, I used either a combination centre bit (Are they still "Slocombe" bits over your way? ) Which have close to zero rake, and point thinned them for easy penetration, or a jobber bit with modified rake and point thinning. Rag drilling, as I described in the "lost post" can work well, saves drill modification... Still hate drilling sheet metal work, except in desperation...
I've learned to sharpen drills by hand quite a while back. There's no magic, only a simple wrist movement. After i joined my local makerspace it surprised me how nobody believed i could sharpen a drill without making it worse. So i had to show them how to sharpen dull or broken drill bits, of which they had many.
"So i had to show them how to sharpen dull or broken drill bits, of which they had many." Part of it is a failure to select and use correct spindle rates for drill material / workpiece material combinations (explains the prevalence of blunt drills wherever you go) and only part of it is an inability to sharpen drills... One other thing is that "other trades" are permitted access to grinders that ought to be used exclusively for drill/toolbit sharpening. So, you pitch up at the pedestal / floor grinder and it's got grooves in it, the corners have huge radii on them. No good for sharpening or point thinning/relieving... So you say bugger it, and pop the drill back in the rack... I used to carry a diamond dresser in my pocket for a little light wheel dressing. (never lend them, by the way, if a guy hasn't got one, there's a likelihood he'll destroy yours, and not even realize...) Avoid heavy dressing of the workshop wheel with the Huntingdon dresser until Friday, the day you throw your overalls into the laundry bin... Unless you're happy with a liberal coating of aluminium oxide dust, long term...
Это не мастерская! Это группа детского сада. В любом ПТУ на 1-2 курсе геометрию режущей кромки проходят, а на практике ее заточку, при чем любого инструмента, не только сверл.
super idea, super method, super presentation! Informative and useful information is conveyed. The ending displaying of the sharpened tips is the most important part of the presentation. Those few seconds are the 'backbones'👈👏🤝
Я на УШМ точу руками на глаз. Нормально сверлит если сначало проходить мелким сверлом который стоит дешевле. Видео урок познавательный👍 Попробую более точно наточить. Кобальтовые сверла точить легче, не перегреваются.
すごい!! Finally, someone knows drill bits so well and is generous enough to share this fabulous video with us, I've watched enough crappy drill bits sharpening videos. Unfortunately, not everyone has a bench grinder at home.
Bilgilendirici videonuzu beğeniyle izledim.Bütün matkap bileme aparatları adeta aynı çapta matkap ucundan başka çapta uç yokmuş gibi basma kalıp uygulamalarda ısrar etmek doğru bir yaklaşım değil.İşin konusu ''matkap uçları ve bileme çeşitleri ''şeklinde bir başlık altında olup ona göre anlatım ve uygulamalı video yaparsanız daha etkili olacağını söyleyebilirim.Sizin gösterdiğiniz uygulamayı birebir yapabilecek insan sayısı bulmakta zorlanırsınız.Çalışanlar genelde bileme açısına ve malzeme cinsine bakmaksızın el melekesi yetisi kadar bileyebildiği şeklini alışkanlık haline getirmiş oluyor.Malesef tecrübeler bunu gösteriyor.Ben kendi adıma videonuzu beğendim.Çünkü doğru sonuç alınan her uygulama makbul uygulamadır.Lakin herkes aynı uygulamayı beceremeyebilir.Diyede not düşüyorum.Size kolay gelsin.
I was surprised you didnt make more jigs to those exact angle duplicate grinding time and time again to accommodate thecvarious points on thevdrill bits. As there are several angles and styles to deal with and also you didn't address heat build up while grinding the bits. But I did like the video for showing the reasons for various drill bit tip shapes. I have tried doing it without a jig of some sort but I didn't have the right touch and also I wasn't aware of the thinning of the point that may have been were I went wrong as well. I like it when you showed how to make a drill bit with the extended center for the Kregg Jig jointing style.
i really hate grinding wheels, i usually use beltgrinder, grit36 is supreme very cool to see someone also doing the flat top edge, quite literally any socalled expert will round the top rather. great minds think alike, back when i learned to grind drills i quickly realized that flattening it rather than rounding had major benefits. i was also very confused how the drills i sharpened were better than freshly made high quality drill bits, i was never sure if it was really true, also very cool to see it proven. this video touches on a subject they never taught me at metalworking school, and outperforms any other expert video ive ever seen with concise and perfect production quality. haleluja.
I always use the side of the wheel, it takes about 10 seconds to make a drill super sharp, grind each side with same pressure and same duration and they come out quite even, if you drill holes of 1 inch/25mm use 300 rpm if you drill holes of 1/2"/12mm use 600 rpm etc, leaving the head of the drill with as much material as possible just a slight clearance, will allow the drill to take more heat without getting too hot and losing its temper
Bonjour, votre super compétence concernant tout ce qui est BOIS est reconnue et non usurpée. Pour les métaux, c'est différent, vos interventions ne sont pas très académiques (machine à scier sans soulagement du retour lame). Concernant l'affutage des forêt, vous êtes à coté de la plaque, les angles sont différents en fonctions des matériaux percés notamment l'angle de dépouille qui doit être compris entre 3 et 8°, un seul point est important, ne jamais réduire l’arrière de cet angle comme vous le faites, le forêt broutera et perdra en précision. Cette invention provient de certains fabricants pour faciliter l'affutage car l'affutage des forêts est l'un des exercices le plus complexe en mécanique. Nombre de forets neufs sont vendus avec un mauvais affutage. Un bon professionnel le fait à la main s'il n'a pas une machine spécialisée, seul problème insoluble, la parfaite symétrie gage de précision. D'autre part l'angle de 118° sur lequel vous vous appesantissez n'a pas une grande importance puisqu'il concerne uniquement l'usure du forêt, il peut être compris entre 90 et 125° et n'oubliez pas que pour tout métal "rouge" l'angle d'attaque doit être cassé (0°) par un bon coup de pierre à affuter.
Excelente tutorial maestro, excelente información sobre el afiliado de brocas,mi hermano es tornero/fresador/ mandrinador, afila las brocas para metal, en un esmeril normal y corriente, a mano alzada y a ojo, cortan como de fábrica, gracias por compartir tanta información y conocimientos, un saludo cordial y por supuesto un merecido like desde Narón (Galicia)👍🤓😜
Сем лет отпахал на металлообработке (сверловка, токарка, фрезеровка итд.), я эти сверла щёлкал как орехи пачками, хотя я умел их точить ещё до поступления на работу, а на заводе скилуху поднял до заточки зенкеров от руки. Ещё есть варик при достаточной сноровке обратной заточки, когда нужно высверлить обломыш, а левого сверла нету...
@@БулатБасыров-у2щ В тех условия которых работал я, никакая автоматика не угадывалась и близко, полуавтоматические линии серийных деталей, на каждой по 25 металлообрабатывающих всякой разности станков, сверловочных операций было море, соответственно и сверел была гора. То есть если я бы няньчился с каждым сверлышком, то никогда б не делал норму, при этом качество требовалось в соответствии техпроцесу...
an neat trick for drilling in thin plate, i've learned at technical school is putting an piece of cloth on the plate, and let it turn with the drill, it will improve the roundness of the hole, I have more problems with drilling trough RVS , and drills with cobalt are expensive and tend to break easyer ; applaying sufficient good drill paste is requiered
In future when checking the height with a dial gauge (as seen at 5.31) may I suggest you use a back stop to prevent variation from freehand grinding which is almost impossible
WHAT?!? You’re going to teach us how to sharpen METAL drill bits?!? What happened to the marine grade Baltic Birch? Aren’t you going to make the drill bits out of the WOOD, and show us how much more affordable and robust our joints are while they’re completely made with wood?!! What would Professor Charles Xavier think when you bust out this, your newest Magneto beacon? Giving up on wood might as well be the same as turning your back on Humankind!!
Great instructions! By the way, where did you buy the New Pic-Test gauge? It's getting harder to find good quality tools in Canada, especially in metric, so I'd like to look into Japanese suppliers.
Thank you, very good. I have a question about that diamond blade (9:31), which also cuts along the edge, where did you buy it? Hola buenas noches; Gracias muy bueno. Tengo una pregunta ese disco de diamante ( 9:31 ), que corta también por el borde, donde lo compraste
i been iron worker for many years. you know your drill is sharp is when you drill the whole you get long unbroken spirals. it means the drill is sharp, your drill has the right rpm and the pressure on the drill is right. the smaller the drill bit the faster rpm, the larger the drill bit the slower the rpm. you can find the right rpms in tables on many websites. and when you need to cut a big hole... predrill with a few smaller drill bits first. i will go much faster and easier then straight up the big drill bit.
"you know your drill is sharp is when you drill the whole you get long unbroken spirals." Well... You won't with hard brass, or with cast iron. And in any case long swarf is at best a PITA, at worst, dangerous. That's why we "woodpecker" to avoid long swarf (other ways of avoiding long swarf are available...) That was something we were taught in the 60s. "Long, continuous swarf is a sign you've got the right speed, feed and tool geometry" We used to compete to produce the longest piece of swarf. One day, a guy where I worked had a long spiral of swarf snaking from his lathe across an aisle, and another guy, not noticing, tripped on it and cut his ankle badly... Not long afterwards, coincidentally, we were being taught to produce short chips, which are easily managed, don't weave themselves into machine handles, clamps, etc... In respect of using progressively larger drills to make big holes, the point was made to me, in the early seventies, that that was an inefficient way of working (though it may be necessitated by low powered machinery) Drilling a 2" hole through solid, or with a small pilot, about web thickness, maybe a little less, is quicker than continually swapping bits. The guy that told me that made the valid point that if the bigger drills were not intended to drill through solid, they'd not "cut to centre" Core bits for casting work don't "cut to centre" because the hole was sand cored to save you that...
Иногда проще гвоздём просверлить , чем современным сверлом - так и поступал пару раз . Только Китай и Россия могут сделать сверло , которое изменяет шнек на левый автоматически , при сверлении сосны , или рассыпается в патроне на порошок .)))
If there is no angle, contact occurs through rotation. This cannot be explained in words. You can understand this by actually sharpening the drill with the angle set to zero.
@@jisakukobo I understand that contact occurs through rotation when there is no back angle but it's at the back of the edge which doesn't make any difference for actually cutting the metal. If you want to drill on both clockwise and anticlockwise then it make sense to give it a second angle at the back otherwise it doesn't do anything for drilling.
Работаю Сверловщиком на Радиальносвелильном станке сверлю хардекс велдекс и никогда не занимаюсь наклейками скотча и других приспособлений к наждаку глаза и руки больше нечего не надо😅
4:31 The easiest way to sharpen a drill ドリルを研ぐ最も簡単な方法 9:18 Sharpening using a jig 治具を使って研ぐ 10:39 How to sharpen a cone コーンを研ぐ方法 13:56 Drill for processing thin plates 薄板加工用ドリル 15:41 Make a woodworking drill 木工ドリルを作る ４つのとはどれのことですか？ 時刻を教えて下さい。 ろうそくの薄板加工用ドリルは円周部をセンターより少し下げたほうが良いと思います。
Contrairement à ce que vous indiquez sur la photo titre, le foret de gauche semble très bien affuté, celui de droite percera en broutant l'acier, son seul avantage il pourra percer sans avant trou. Cet avant trou doit être du diamètre de l'âme du foret final.
Podczas wiercenia grubość zbieranego wióra ma być jednakowa z obu stron a jeżeli nie to można delikatnie poprawić a i to że zależy od dokładności otworu jezeli otwór moze być mniej dokładny to wiercić i nie przejmować się gdyż wietło i tak należy co jakiś czas naostrzyć i wiercić dalej można a nawet powinno też stosować nieco grubsze wiertło by np. włożenie śruby było łatwiejsze.
![ARGENTINA vs. PERÚ [1-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xtI25ENDDSY/mqdefault.jpg)
This video has subtitles and explanations.
Please turn on subtitles.
I was watching and didn't understand. With subtitles it's maybe better. Will restart.
Да я в принципе и так затачиваю без этих лайфх.аков сверла до 80 диаметра без проблем. И режут отлично не разбивает и стойкость отличная. А так для начинающих отличное видео. Лайк однозначно.
私は日頃、円錐研ぎをしてますが改めて参考になりました。直線研ぎからの流れが理解しやすく思います。薄板研ぎは目から鱗のような・・・基本を理解しやすいビデオを制作していただき有り難うございます。
コメントありがとうございます。
動画制作をした甲斐がありました！
When I sharpen a drill I use a very similar method as the second one you demonstrated. It has always given excellent results but it is nice to see someone else using the same method. Great video
Probably my most eagerly awaited videos are by JSK-koubu. No need for English as beautifully filmed and with gestures explains what he's doing.
Спасибо большое за видео, желаю вам удачи, успехов
After 50 years of drill sharpening, that's the first time I've ever seen masking tape used to show the angle.
I was taught to use two hex nuts to get the 120 degrees
What a great idea to teach people how to set drill to wheel.
I do very little woodworking and have never used pocket hole construction, that was a very interesting modification that could be used to counter bore holes for cap-screws (Allen head)
ドリル研ぎを始めて50年になりますが、マスキングテープで角度がわかるのを見たのは初めてです。 120度にするために2つの六角ナットを使うように教えられました ドリルをホイールにセットする方法を人々に教えるのは素晴らしいアイデアです。 私は木工をほとんど行わず、ポケットホール構造を使用したことがありませんが、キャップスクリュー(六角レンチ)のざぐり穴に使用できる非常に興味深い変更でした
the best drillbit sharpening and modifying ive'd every seen' its very accurate and precise. nice video👍👍👍👍👍
Да, но даже микрометр не помог, что бы работали обе режущие части. Работает только одна. Спираль стружки, выходит с одной стороны.
I learned more from this channel than with people who actually talk. Nice work. Thanks!
As much as I love words, this video is a great example and reminder that sometimes more can be communicated without them. One of the very best (and clearest) drill sharpening instructionals out there. Thank you sir and very well done.
As usual. As expected. One best way to teach.
A noble way to learn: Watch and see, recognise, understand and memorize.
Apply and you'll become wiser again. Because applied knowledge becomes wisdom.
All good tips, as a retired toolmaker spent many hours sharpening drills by hand. Always thinned the web it can be done with the edge of the grinding wheel. Only tip I saw that should always be avoided is the drilling of sheet metal, never hold it with your hand clamp it down. Had a toolmaker off almost a year after a piece grabbed and climbed up the bit and sliced his hand open.
"the drilling of sheet metal" Well... Making holes sheet metal with a conventional two flute drill was never considered a clever thing to do, and a common piece of advice for drilling in general is "You can hold the workpiece by hand if you can break the drill bit by hand... A good basic rule...
The problem with drilling sheet metal with a twist drill is that the point penetrates the material before the lip corner enters the material, so there's nothing supporting and centralising the drill bit. That's why you get oddly shaped holes, when drilling sheet metal. (that, and badly off hand sharpened drill bits...
Anyway... If a more suitable tool is not available... (Rotabroach, Rotobor, hole saw, punch laser, other)
Try "rag drilling" set up your drilling machine correctly to position the hole where you want it, and start drilling, but don't penetrate, leave a dimple, then... get some squares of rag. (Denim's good ) a bit bigger than the hole size, and interpose them between the drill bit and the workpiece, then drill. The rag will fill the drill clearance, offering 1) radial support to the drill and 2) resistance to the drill's "pulling in" to the workpiece. On that last issue... use the drilling machine's quill clamp as a brake, to avoid "pulling in" There's always a bit of backlash in the quill's rack and pinion drive.
I have used, in the absence of denim, emery cloth, which works, but doesn't do drill bits any favours...
No one else remember "rag drilling"?
@@robertlawson8572 my whole point was based on the size of the bit and piece of metal being drilled in the video. I worked as a toolmaker for 40 years managing build and stamping operations. we made shims for punches and die sections by the thousands each year. you can avoid the accident by using safe measures. a clamp is a good safety measure. even a step drill is much better for drilling clean holes in sheet metal but when it grabs the work piece and you are holding it by hand lookout! Fingers don't grow back, just wanted to bring to peoples attention when i see a potential accident about to happen. remember there are lots of people that see a youtube video and think that it's a best practice to use when they go to do something. just my 2 cents.
@@GaryHaines-d9y Sorry, pal, you seem to have bit... I just added a basic rule of drilling to your statement that clamping is necessary... Now it's lost in the noise. So... to recap,
If you can break the drill by hand, you can hold the workpiece by hand... (If you must) It really sets very low limits on the drill size. We all have our old war stories about drilling incidents...
I forgot to mention at the time about modifying the drill's rake to zero, or close to zero, to avoid sheet metal pulling up... Works well on spring steel, too... Same as putting a brass lip on a drill...
@@GaryHaines-d9y I did respond earlier, my post seems to have gone...
I hate the use of two flute drills for SMW, clamps or no clamps. We did have "Brad Rad" step drills for lightening holes in A/C work, in the seventies, but, though the zero rake was good for avoidance of the workpiece rising, the zero rake was not good for light alloys.
Of course, sometimes it's necessary to drill thin stuff, or even stuff that's thin and hard, like spring steel sections for attachment screws... (punching introduces stresses that lead to failure, plus drills are easier to sharpen than punches... Then, I used either a combination centre bit (Are they still "Slocombe" bits over your way? ) Which have close to zero rake, and point thinned them for easy penetration, or a jobber bit with modified rake and point thinning.
Rag drilling, as I described in the "lost post" can work well, saves drill modification...
Still hate drilling sheet metal work, except in desperation...
Totally agree with clamping down sheet metal before drilling! Ask me how I know... I have a few scars to remind me!
I've learned to sharpen drills by hand quite a while back. There's no magic, only a simple wrist movement.
After i joined my local makerspace it surprised me how nobody believed i could sharpen a drill without making it worse.
So i had to show them how to sharpen dull or broken drill bits, of which they had many.
"So i had to show them how to sharpen dull or broken drill bits, of which they had many."
Part of it is a failure to select and use correct spindle rates for drill material / workpiece material combinations (explains the prevalence of blunt drills wherever you go) and only part of it is an inability to sharpen drills... One other thing is that "other trades" are permitted access to grinders that ought to be used exclusively for drill/toolbit sharpening. So, you pitch up at the pedestal / floor grinder and it's got grooves in it, the corners have huge radii on them. No good for sharpening or point thinning/relieving... So you say bugger it, and pop the drill back in the rack...
I used to carry a diamond dresser in my pocket for a little light wheel dressing. (never lend them, by the way, if a guy hasn't got one, there's a likelihood he'll destroy yours, and not even realize...) Avoid heavy dressing of the workshop wheel with the Huntingdon dresser until Friday, the day you throw your overalls into the laundry bin... Unless you're happy with a liberal coating of aluminium oxide dust, long term...
Это не мастерская! Это группа детского сада. В любом ПТУ на 1-2 курсе геометрию режущей кромки проходят, а на практике ее заточку, при чем любого инструмента, не только сверл.
super idea, super method, super presentation! Informative and useful information is conveyed. The ending displaying of the sharpened tips is the most important part of the presentation. Those few seconds are the 'backbones'👈👏🤝
Я на УШМ точу руками на глаз. Нормально сверлит если сначало проходить мелким сверлом который стоит дешевле. Видео урок познавательный👍 Попробую более точно наточить. Кобальтовые сверла точить легче, не перегреваются.
Брат, я тоже на УШМ на глаз точу))
すごい!!
Finally, someone knows drill bits so well and is generous enough to share this fabulous video with us, I've watched enough crappy drill bits sharpening videos. Unfortunately, not everyone has a bench grinder at home.
This has been the most detailed drill bit sharpening guide in the whole internet.
Very accurate / precise machining for a backyard sharpening operation.
Well done!
Bilgilendirici videonuzu beğeniyle izledim.Bütün matkap bileme aparatları adeta aynı çapta matkap ucundan başka çapta uç yokmuş gibi basma kalıp uygulamalarda ısrar etmek doğru bir yaklaşım değil.İşin konusu ''matkap uçları ve bileme çeşitleri ''şeklinde bir başlık altında olup ona göre anlatım ve uygulamalı video yaparsanız daha etkili olacağını söyleyebilirim.Sizin gösterdiğiniz uygulamayı birebir yapabilecek insan sayısı bulmakta zorlanırsınız.Çalışanlar genelde bileme açısına ve malzeme cinsine bakmaksızın el melekesi yetisi kadar bileyebildiği şeklini alışkanlık haline getirmiş oluyor.Malesef tecrübeler bunu gösteriyor.Ben kendi adıma videonuzu beğendim.Çünkü doğru sonuç alınan her uygulama makbul uygulamadır.Lakin herkes aynı uygulamayı beceremeyebilir.Diyede not düşüyorum.Size kolay gelsin.
Well done - that is very helpful. I broke my pocket hole drill bit a few days ago, so now I have a perfect excuse to try and sharpen it! Thank you!
Just noticed that when I see JSK, I skip all the others
Happy learnt how to putt.......
Super Erklärung! Vielen Dank. Meine Bohrer werden scharf!
I was surprised you didnt make more jigs to those exact angle duplicate grinding time and time again to accommodate thecvarious points on thevdrill bits. As there are several angles and styles to deal with and also you didn't address heat build up while grinding the bits. But I did like the video for showing the reasons for various drill bit tip shapes. I have tried doing it without a jig of some sort but I didn't have the right touch and also I wasn't aware of the thinning of the point that may have been were I went wrong as well. I like it when you showed how to make a drill bit with the extended center for the Kregg Jig jointing style.
They did dip the drills into water periodically to keep it cool after each grinding operation. It was shown near the beginning.
Спасибо за познавательное и качественное видео! Я и раньше знал в теории про углы и режущие кромки(5), но тут наглядно показано как этого добиться!!!
チゼルつけるのコツが入りますよね💦 樹脂加工良くしてたので刃先を思い切り殺して 熱であけてました🔥
樹脂にはローソク研ぎで加工すると割れにくく綺麗に空くと聞いたことがあります。
まだ未確認ですが参考にしてください
ろうそく研ぎは
見て覚えたなぁ、何度も練習してマスターしたわ。
スパっと穴加工できると、なんだかうれしい。
i really hate grinding wheels, i usually use beltgrinder, grit36 is supreme
very cool to see someone also doing the flat top edge, quite literally any socalled expert will round the top rather. great minds think alike, back when i learned to grind drills i quickly realized that flattening it rather than rounding had major benefits. i was also very confused how the drills i sharpened were better than freshly made high quality drill bits, i was never sure if it was really true, also very cool to see it proven.
this video touches on a subject they never taught me at metalworking school, and outperforms any other expert video ive ever seen with concise and perfect production quality. haleluja.
Please make a video on how to sharpen scissors... this will be very valuable for Tailors....
I always use the side of the wheel, it takes about 10 seconds to make a drill super sharp, grind each side with same pressure and same duration and they come out quite even, if you drill holes of 1 inch/25mm use 300 rpm if you drill holes of 1/2"/12mm use 600 rpm etc, leaving the head of the drill with as much material as possible just a slight clearance, will allow the drill to take more heat without getting too hot and losing its temper
За заточку под косрй шуруп, отдельное спасибо
Булатный лайк мой👍
Bonjour, votre super compétence concernant tout ce qui est BOIS est reconnue et non usurpée. Pour les métaux, c'est différent, vos interventions ne sont pas très académiques (machine à scier sans soulagement du retour lame). Concernant l'affutage des forêt, vous êtes à coté de la plaque, les angles sont différents en fonctions des matériaux percés notamment l'angle de dépouille qui doit être compris entre 3 et 8°, un seul point est important, ne jamais réduire l’arrière de cet angle comme vous le faites, le forêt broutera et perdra en précision. Cette invention provient de certains fabricants pour faciliter l'affutage car l'affutage des forêts est l'un des exercices le plus complexe en mécanique. Nombre de forets neufs sont vendus avec un mauvais affutage. Un bon professionnel le fait à la main s'il n'a pas une machine spécialisée, seul problème insoluble, la parfaite symétrie gage de précision. D'autre part l'angle de 118° sur lequel vous vous appesantissez n'a pas une grande importance puisqu'il concerne uniquement l'usure du forêt, il peut être compris entre 90 et 125° et n'oubliez pas que pour tout métal "rouge" l'angle d'attaque doit être cassé (0°) par un bon coup de pierre à affuter.
Thank you for the explanation, I was convinced to buy new.
And another incredible talented man! Thank you kind Sir JSK!❤
Excelente tutorial maestro, excelente información sobre el afiliado de brocas,mi hermano es tornero/fresador/ mandrinador, afila las brocas para metal, en un esmeril normal y corriente, a mano alzada y a ojo, cortan como de fábrica, gracias por compartir tanta información y conocimientos, un saludo cordial y por supuesto un merecido like desde Narón (Galicia)👍🤓😜
Сем лет отпахал на металлообработке (сверловка, токарка, фрезеровка итд.), я эти сверла щёлкал как орехи пачками, хотя я умел их точить ещё до поступления на работу, а на заводе скилуху поднял до заточки зенкеров от руки. Ещё есть варик при достаточной сноровке обратной заточки, когда нужно высверлить обломыш, а левого сверла нету...
Автор японец у него заточка сверл по Японский!
Нано!!! Технологии!
@@vin44t А что у японцев сверла какие-то не такие как у остального мира? Или сделаны из нано материалов?
@@vin44tНанотехнологии😂👍
Ну Вы монстр👹пачками точили. По мне так, чем меньше зависит заточка от чела, тем лучше.
@@БулатБасыров-у2щ В тех условия которых работал я, никакая автоматика не угадывалась и близко, полуавтоматические линии серийных деталей, на каждой по 25 металлообрабатывающих всякой разности станков, сверловочных операций было море, соответственно и сверел была гора. То есть если я бы няньчился с каждым сверлышком, то никогда б не делал норму, при этом качество требовалось в соответствии техпроцесу...
an neat trick for drilling in thin plate, i've learned at technical school is putting an piece of cloth on the plate, and let it turn with the drill, it will improve the roundness of the hole, I have more problems with drilling trough RVS , and drills with cobalt are expensive and tend to break easyer ; applaying sufficient good drill paste is requiered
Amolei minhas brocas de aço e nem precisei fazer este circo todo 🤔🤨
thank you ir.. realy good job and helpful a video..
In future when checking the height with a dial gauge (as seen at 5.31) may I suggest you use a back stop to prevent variation from freehand grinding which is almost impossible
он влюблен в свое дело! Браво Мастер
I use a corund stone to sharpen and a sharp drill bit and with the right technique you can even drill even through damn sturdy steel
私もドリルは手で研ぎます、もちろん座ぐりも手で研ぎます。座ぐりの方は回転させながら手前に回します。簡単ですが若手が覚えようとしません。
片刄を研いだら、もう片刄も続けてやれ
そう習いました。つまり
「手や指の位置そのままでクルッと回す」と
どっちの刄も同じ様に研げるんだって
Please make a video on sharpening drill bits up to 2mm.
Seing your video, I wondered if there is any use in sharpening drills with hard metal "cutting" edges for stone/concrete. Any idea?
That's impressive! Thank you for sharing.
대단한 경력 기능 잘 보았습니다
Congratulations!.. Excellent video in every way!.. The best I have seen on this matter!.. Thank you
Если бы я такой херней занимался то сверлить бы я начал к закату своей жизни а так я уже все работы по сверлению почти закончил
Perfect for the subject how to sharpen drills. 14:03 maybe some trick can be added how to hold a piece of sheet metal for drilling.
Thanks
I may have missed in the subtitles. What was the grid grade of white stone?
Excelente, como todos sus proyectos y videos.
Nice video, thanks :)
WHAT?!? You’re going to teach us how to sharpen METAL drill bits?!? What happened to the marine grade Baltic Birch? Aren’t you going to make the drill bits out of the WOOD, and show us how much more affordable and robust our joints are while they’re completely made with wood?!! What would Professor Charles Xavier think when you bust out this, your newest Magneto beacon? Giving up on wood might as well be the same as turning your back on Humankind!!
El gran maestro de lo impecable!!! Gracias por tus enseñanzas🙏
Огромное спасибо за ролик!!!
oh yes, very good explenation, thanks a lot
Sensacional !!!
Abraços do Brasil 🇧🇷
Great instructions! By the way, where did you buy the New Pic-Test gauge? It's getting harder to find good quality tools in Canada, especially in metric, so I'd like to look into Japanese suppliers.
I bought it on Amazon.
amzn.to/3y9n7SJ
Thank you, very good. I have a question about that diamond blade (9:31), which also cuts along the edge, where did you buy it? Hola buenas noches; Gracias muy bueno. Tengo una pregunta ese disco de diamante ( 9:31 ), que corta también por el borde, donde lo compraste
really really nice! amazing control and technique.
i been iron worker for many years. you know your drill is sharp is when you drill the whole you get long unbroken spirals. it means the drill is sharp, your drill has the right rpm and the pressure on the drill is right. the smaller the drill bit the faster rpm, the larger the drill bit the slower the rpm. you can find the right rpms in tables on many websites. and when you need to cut a big hole... predrill with a few smaller drill bits first. i will go much faster and easier then straight up the big drill bit.
"you know your drill is sharp is when you drill the whole you get long unbroken spirals." Well... You won't with hard brass, or with cast iron. And in any case long swarf is at best a PITA, at worst, dangerous. That's why we "woodpecker" to avoid long swarf (other ways of avoiding long swarf are available...)
That was something we were taught in the 60s. "Long, continuous swarf is a sign you've got the right speed, feed and tool geometry" We used to compete to produce the longest piece of swarf. One day, a guy where I worked had a long spiral of swarf snaking from his lathe across an aisle, and another guy, not noticing, tripped on it and cut his ankle badly...
Not long afterwards, coincidentally, we were being taught to produce short chips, which are easily managed, don't weave themselves into machine handles, clamps, etc...
In respect of using progressively larger drills to make big holes, the point was made to me, in the early seventies, that that was an inefficient way of working (though it may be necessitated by low powered machinery) Drilling a 2" hole through solid, or with a small pilot, about web thickness, maybe a little less, is quicker than continually swapping bits.
The guy that told me that made the valid point that if the bigger drills were not intended to drill through solid, they'd not "cut to centre" Core bits for casting work don't "cut to centre" because the hole was sand cored to save you that...
All is good information 😊😊❤
Спасибо за ролик хорош инструмент. С уважением к Вам и вашему каналу «Вторая жизнь ПЕТ бутылок».
ロウソク研ぎやば。こりゃむずい
練習あるのみです。
Thank you. You gave very important information ❤
Иногда проще гвоздём просверлить , чем современным сверлом - так и поступал пару раз . Только Китай и Россия могут сделать сверло , которое изменяет шнек на левый автоматически , при сверлении сосны , или рассыпается в патроне на порошок .)))
Muito bom amigo 🔝😮
Автор молодец!
what is the difference between normal cutting edge bit and conical cutting edge bit ? what is the application for each ?
Молодец, мастер своего дела 👍
perfect skill
perfect teaching, Thanks.
Gratidão por compartilhar conhecimento...
Outra coisa brocas para madeira que é mas fragil ou macia tem este acabamento mesmo.
Drill bits cut by rotating anticlockwise so why do you need to put an angle at the back side edge where it has no contact to what it cuts?
If there is no angle, contact occurs through rotation.
This cannot be explained in words.
You can understand this by actually sharpening the drill with the angle set to zero.
@@jisakukobo I understand that contact occurs through rotation when there is no back angle but it's at the back of the edge which doesn't make any difference for actually cutting the metal. If you want to drill on both clockwise and anticlockwise then it make sense to give it a second angle at the back otherwise it doesn't do anything for drilling.
Gute idee der bohr halter
Thanks !
Perfection, as each videos
Congratulations
Работаю Сверловщиком на Радиальносвелильном станке сверлю хардекс велдекс и никогда не занимаюсь наклейками скотча и других приспособлений к наждаку глаза и руки больше нечего не надо😅
Great video, thanks
BS way of a better edge ? If you have a quality drill press or mill with virtually no runout a standard drill tip will be fine.
Pensavo si potessero affilare solo le punte, ma questo tizio ci insegna ad affilare i trapani. Così dice il titolo.
4:31 The easiest way to sharpen a drill ドリルを研ぐ最も簡単な方法
9:18 Sharpening using a jig 治具を使って研ぐ
10:39 How to sharpen a cone コーンを研ぐ方法
13:56 Drill for processing thin plates 薄板加工用ドリル
15:41 Make a woodworking drill 木工ドリルを作る
４つのとはどれのことですか？ 時刻を教えて下さい。
ろうそくの薄板加工用ドリルは円周部をセンターより少し下げたほうが良いと思います。
Спасибо 👍
タイトルいい加減につけてました。
全部で6つのドリルの紹介でした。
0:00 【ドリル研磨の概要とグラインダーの準備】
4:32 【直線研ぎの方法】
9:18 【治具を使った直線研ぎの方法】
10:40 【円錐研ぎの方法】
13:55 【ローソク研ぎの方法】
15:42 【木工ドリル研ぎの方法】
16:45 【下穴ドリル研ぎの方法】
Thanks you master, great video.❤❤❤
I learned something new❤
Amazing!!!😍
Perdón por mi ignorancia!
Yo no sabía que los taladros tanvien se afilan!
Yo sé que se afilan las brocas!
Muitíssimo bom!!!
感謝
Muy bien afiladlas, si señor!! 👍😉
Highly appreciated.
Наверно это ювелир. Из сверла хотел сделать бриллиант. Сколько там граней получилось?
Contrairement à ce que vous indiquez sur la photo titre, le foret de gauche semble très bien affuté, celui de droite percera en broutant l'acier, son seul avantage il pourra percer sans avant trou. Cet avant trou doit être du diamètre de l'âme du foret final.
C'est un vrai savoir-faire 😮
Thank you my friend.👍👍👍👍👍
Podczas wiercenia grubość zbieranego wióra ma być jednakowa z obu stron a jeżeli nie to można delikatnie poprawić a i to że zależy od dokładności otworu jezeli otwór moze być mniej dokładny to wiercić i nie przejmować się gdyż wietło i tak należy co jakiś czas naostrzyć i wiercić dalej można a nawet powinno też stosować nieco grubsze wiertło by np. włożenie śruby było łatwiejsze.
exelente
Super Erklärung
Compré la máquina y me quité de perder todo ese tiempo
Пока сверло затачиваеш ,- смена рабочая закончится ! 😂
Boas informações
da noi le chiamiamo punte per foratura , il trapano è uno strumento adatto per fare girare le punte per fare fori ...
Thanks
@@jisakukobo👍👍👍