The guy on this video could script videos for many products. He is excellent. He knows what to say, what not to say. He speaks clearly. He doesn't use annoying filler words like, "and, um...".
I have tried for 30 years here and there to sweat in copper pipes when we had a water issue or rather a pipe issue and have never been able to pull it off. Then today we had a problem with the pipes in the shower. Had to cut the sheet rock out to get to the pipes and because I thought I couldn’t do it (because I couldn’t sweat in pipes, I let this idiot that was staying here temporarily fix it. Couldn’t pull it off! Then there was another one that stepped up-same result. Finally I said I’m going to do it. First I watch you tutorial on sweating pipes. After I finished watching it I got two pieces and a coupling and I did it the first time!!!! I couldn’t believe it! Omg! So let me just say you should have been a teacher cause the way you taught that tutorial was excellent! I am so grateful! Keep up the excellent work!
I've worked in the HVAC field over 30 years. I'm still watching, reading and learning from books, other technicians and even videos like yours. You can always learn something new, even if it is a small detail, it can mean big savings in time and labor later. Thanks for the video.
After 30 years as an HVAC tech you should probably know damn near everything about your job by now and shark bites aren't very professional they're quick and easy but they're not the correct way, they really should only be used in a pinch when It comes to copper solder it, when it comes to PVC or CPVC glue it, When it comes to pex throw it in the trash lol jk crimp that shit
Best SharkBite tips video I’ve seen. Glad you added no Vaseline to it, too many folk show no mercy to the beloved “O” ring. You covered all I can think of Bro!
Been using these for a few years and they work very well specially on repairs where soldering is almost impossible when the pipes have to much water in them. It only takes a few drops of water to ruin a soldering job, then you have to start all over.
When water is a problem stuff some wadded up bread in there then solder it up before it melts away. It will flush right out when you charge the line later
I repiped from galvanized to PEX using sharkbites, I wish that war was only a weekend, lol. Good points, and things I did not encounter since I was not using copper in any way. From my own experience, I would add a couple of things. First, don't expect PEX to hold itself as well as metal pipe. You are going to have to strap and support it through long runs and when you might have counted on a rigid pipe to provide some passive stability on fixtures, you will be disappointed. Since we're on the topic of strapping, don't use wire to tie PEX along floor joists and such. Over time, it will cut through the PEX slowly. Next, don't let the PEX touch the soil or become exposed to even partial light, the pipe will decay quickly. Finally, if you are repiping be aware that the builder might have used your metal piping as a ground for your wiring. You may need to carry a ground wire to where your metal piping still exists and connects underground, for me, it was the supply line from the utilities district. You would be safer buying and driving down a ground stake and connect grounds to that to protect your house from electrical fire...All that being said, I loved the advantages of PEX and the price and durability was comparable to favorable over metal piping. It has been ten years now, and no troubles.
I just want to thank you for posting this your videos they are very helpful for a person such as myself that does not know plumbing all that well. I have learned a lot from your videos.and I want to personally thank you!!!!! have a great day and God bless.
I see a lot of old-school plumbers are on this page, guys who love to rant about Sharkbite fittings. Fact: Sharkbite fittings have their place. They are reliable, durable and cost effective when labor is factored in. They can withstand temperature extremes, and can be released during renovations or repairs. I see the same resistance to new ideas from old-school carpenters. Just don't hire an old-school guy! Hire someone who is up to speed instead. I've been plumbing for the last forty-five or so years. I have never hesitated to keep my mind open to new ideas, and when Sharkbites came along I gave them a try. Installed properly, they are dependable. Sure, installed by a sloppy guy who doesn't care, they'll leak.
@@redlobster4841 properly installed these fittings are great, i have multiple shark bite fittings in my house going from copper to PEX where repairs were needed in my basement. In two years, living in North Dakota, a state with 150 degree temperature change I haven't had a single problem
Very informative video. Using an ice pick...lol! Making sure the end of pipe is clean before insertion into fitting. Also good advice for the bedroom.😯 Thank you for cutting to the chase and not having annoying banjo music.
you do a fantastic job on all your videos and very excited to see this channel grow ... and your sense of humor is so fun too. not many people can pull that off
I do not know why people hate shark bite. Im a licensed plumber and use them often. Shark bite and pro press. I do not solder. I never had no call back on these fittings. I even shark bite my own water heater and angle stops and home. Never had a problem. The key with shark bite. Make sure the fitting is home!! If not it will leak or blow off. Far as that i use them often behind walls i never had a call back. Most old school plumbers hate shark bite, pro press, any compression fitting. 😂😂😂
Mike Jones man telling you once I read his comment bro I’m literally up going to work for a union plumbing shop for the last 4 years and anybody here even say sharkbite it’s a sin in the plumbing trade lol
@@bugattivi7110 You said the key word. Owner did it he wasn't a plumber. I would never pipe a whole house using shark bite. I only use it in certain situations. And i am a plumber. Most old school plumbers hate shark bite because they simply do not know how to use it. And pro press machines.
Just installed one of these and it is still slightly leaking. Glad I came across your video, now I believe I did not insert it far enough. Now I also know that I can remove it easily and reinsert it for a better fitting. Thank you!
The Shark Bite Depth Gauge should be cast in to every fitting so they are always immediately visible available just like strip gauges on electrical Outlet receptacles.
Right. I just today put on a SharkBite shut-off for a kitchen sink. That depth is only half an inch and it wasn't easy to see things inside the cabinet. I thought they make one that "clicks" when it's properly inserted?
@@liman42 I feel you. I don't know if the ones I've used click or if they do it is not always audible with or above ambient sounds or My Radio. What I need to do is get a High Quality LED Rechargable/AA Battery Head Lamp Safety Classes for Dark work places like that. Because My old AA Incandescent Work Headlamp is timing out.
Awesome video as always. Learned so much from your videos and will continue to learn. I've never used sharkbite fittings, but have always used propress and solder fittings. Your videos on soldering have helped me to do it correctly! Cool man!
Read a lot about Sharkbites on RUclips, its pros and cons and decided to replace Accor Lite push -pull valves that started to leak ( internally) after 7 years of use . Followed all the cleaning /square cut as well as checking the insert depth and the 2 clicks that ensures proper Sharkbite Installation. The depth is more key as you may not totally notice the 2 clicks if you push hard /fast enough enough so Depth is more critical than the 2 clicks as basis for proper insert. It's been 2 years so far with no leaks on about a 18 units replacements. I also purposely opened and closed 1 unit 50 times after a year of use and there was no leak unlike the Accor Lite valve I used to have that started to leak even with less than 10 open/closes. The 25 year guarantee on Sharkbite as well as some inputs from plumbing friends who attest they did not have any issue if properly installed made me try this out.
Thank you! The cold water line for my new hot water heater was leaking horribly bad after we installed it. Turns out it was an I-D-10-T error! I'm about to go try again after watching your video. ❤
Thanks again I just learned that there is soft and hard copper. unfortunately, I believe I have soft copper and galvanized pipes ok. so like yeah I'm learning and figuring out what can and cannot be done and eventually after 9000 hours of research I will have a plan. Its funny how I keep finding more and more videos from your channel that is very relevant. thanks.
Ok so most of us use common sense. That being said, this is great how to because nobody has any. De- burring every thing is key. Cleaning as well. Waiting toll the pipe is cool also. And love the fact he pointed out how petroleum is not what to use. You will end up with more cracks than a room full of plumbers!
I never install a Shark bite fitting without plumbing grease, you will inadvertently damage the o-ring shorting it's life, once it is debured properly, remember that a file can leave marks that can cut the o-ring, that's where the Plumbing grease comes in, clean the outside of the pipe in a circular pattern so the scratches go around the pipe as shown in the video, not length wise as this can provide a path for water to escape, grease the pipe to protect the O-ring and insert to the proper depth with the pipe in line as shown in the video and I've never had a leak when I do these steps, Great video!
Sharkbite O-rings are already greased. Another similar brand, Push & Connect, doesn't grease its O-rings. So I agree: use a bit of grease just to be sure. Your advice on sanding the pipe in a circular pattern is bang on.
Sharkbite fittings work on pressurized systems like standard house plumbing, but they will fail if the system is under vacuum. Learned this while trying to draw water up from a cistern using a pump. The vacuum pulls air into the fitting, and the system cannot maintain a prime.
has the code solidified the use of Shark Bite behind closed walls yet? Canada and USA ?. We have been not using them behind closed walls , and if we did, we ensured there was an utility entrance near by to get to them.( arms reach ) .. unless that's just the practice of the guys I work with. Our COE prefers them when inspecting as well. I, also for insurance reasons, needed a Master plumber to sign off on work and the first thing he wanted to ensure was NO Shark Bite type behind closed walls. I am starting to think that is just an older plumbers preference..
I still don't think it's being enforced. I personally know plumbers who use Sharkbites all the time in walls and they never have any call backs, but yeah, maybe in a few years we'll be seeing them a little more ;)
Thanks I should've watched this before installing angle stop valve with faucet connector. I have a small leak and need to remove stop valve. Great video 👌🏾
I like this vid. Push-on fittings require greater care with the preparation of the pipe, but in return you get to skip the fire. This vid gets that across.
Disagree 100%. You need to take the exact same care with deburring and cleaning the pipe as you would with soldering. It's the exact same process, minus the flux and torch.
@@Watchout1010 And the great thing is if you chop your toe off doing this just use a handy sharkbite fitting to put your toe back in afterwards.Genius stuff.
Retired Engineer, I began using push fittings in early 80's plumbing large machinery, and plastic injection molds. The main reason we used them on injection molds was the ability to reuse them. Not reuse the entire fitting, but replace flexible plastic tubing quickly. Doing injection mold changes and plumbing repairs always came down to speed, the faster the mold could be put in, and pulled out of the machinery used to run them, the better. Saving time saves money lost through downtime. Many times several dozen lengths of tubing had to be removed for a mold to clear obstacles, so if only the tubing had to be slipped out, then back in after setting, and before pulling the mold, and the fittings didn't need threaded out, then back in, it saved enormous amounts of time using push fittings. Just swap out tubing, leave the fittings alone. These fittings were usually good for 12 to 15 times before becoming undependable, so I wouldn't worry about reusing them 4 or 5 times for one of my personal projects. I have used them about everywhere possible in industry over the past 40 years with very few problems. The biggest issue was burrs on tubing ends, and tubing not being completely inserted into the push lock. Follow the simple installation rules, and save time, which usually equals money. I will say, this Shark bite brand has really put itself out there marketing wise as I have been seeing a lot about it, seems more so than other brands over the years.
I know one thing, having a shark bite valve handy when a line breaks and there isn’t a valve accessible is awesome. You will get wet but just push the valve on with it open and close once installed. The only downside is the o-ring could possibly come out but only has one time before. I hope this helps anyone!
@@time1800 I wouldn’t want anything compression that’s inside a wall or hard to reach location. A compression stop you have to install the nut and ferrule before you even can start to isolate the problem. I do agree with you that it will work though. I have encountered situations non residential when valves aren’t present to add what’s called a “add a valve” this installs on the pipe and cuts a knockout in the line and shuts the water off. Then you can install a sweat valve or pro press valve in place. Another alternative I have used is to use a freeze machine when valves aren’t installed. I have a nice RIDGID pro press tool that’s even better than a shark bite system. This will actually crimp the fitting or valve in place for a permanent fix but cost a few grand for a system of jaw sizes. Also if you ever need to get a shark bite off without the tool just use a crescent wrench and tap it on the plastic with a hammer or channel locks whatever you have. This way you can reuse the fittings or valves after use. I hope any of this information helps anyone.
Biggest mistake is saying reliable and using them as a permanent fix. Should only be used if you do not know how to do a real repair job such as sweating or bruising.It should only be used if you have a plumbing problem that you can fix with this as a temporary fix especially on a holiday when you don’t wanna have to pay extra to have plumbing repair. But when it is feasible have a plumber do it the right way
Most new homes now have pex in them. There's nothing wrong with shark bite fittings as long as you know what you're doing. Copper is very pricey in today's world. In very confined spaces it's kind of tough to get a torch to do anything without burning wood. I'd prefer not to use a plumber unless I have to because they do not care what they trash in the process of getting the job done. I do care.
plumber here, yeah thats all good stuff, sharkbite are very easy to install, very expensive but makes the project quicker, the depth gauge is a good idea though not necessary if you know where that point is and do all the other things to make a good seal.
Weekend warrior here, great vid thanks. Plumbing task complete and didn’t have to call a plumber. Feels good to learn something new and self accomplishment. I enjoyed your soldering copper pipe as well-good stuff.
You will call one when that rubber o-ring gives out. It will give out. Then that piece of copper you tied onto will have to be cut because of the corrosion caused to the copper by the water. They are for quick fixes and not permanent.
@@Smuggler169 soldering is very easy. I've been a plumber for 20 years and I would recommend this guys video on soldering to learn how. Very good instructor.
I've migrated solely to Sharkbites to minimize soldering and convenience. I've marked how deep they should go from the early start. I've deburred copper but now I want to get the tool. I spend too much time deburring with a file, and it's not always right. I have silicone oil for other rubber applications, but now I'm going to use it on the o-ring here. I've had problems removing Sharkbites on copper, but I'm getting a better grasp on it. The tool doesn't allow me to fully push the seal in, so I use a crescent wrench to push in the seal. I'm probably using the orange remover tool incorrectly.
One thing I never see nor hear about is the affect on homes with a poor ground on copper pipes. When you install shark bites in this scenario, it makes the electrolysis process worse.
If you are talking electrolysis by going from copper to ferrous, you are mistaken about a poor ground. Whenever going from copper to steel one needs a dielectric fitting or "jump it". Sparkies love to ground to a utility vs/drive a copper grounding spike
Great information and glad I watched this one. BTW, someone else has used your video with their narration not even matching what is being shown on the video. They're talking about one thing and a different thing is being shown on the video. Thanks again.
Making a test gauge out of a piece of clear flat plastic it’s something I did when I ran into a situation where I didn’t have enough slack in pipe to pull it together or push it apart
you can look up a guide on how to remove the sharkbite if you put it on and it's leaking (my copper was bent and had to remove). This video helped me a lot, thanks!
Learned of shark bites a few yrs ago. At first I was like what are they talking about? The tips you showed are awesome and very helpful. Thank you for your help and Video. W,R, 🇨🇦🇺🇸🇨🇦🇺🇸🤔🤔👍👍🌈🌈🤳🤳
It is best to remove it because it restricts the flow but like he says you don't have to but if you want one of them don't want to restrict your flow you need to remove it needle-nose pliers works best
your videos are awesome...such a great help for us novice DYI weekend " wanna be plumbers"...thank you.... Question: by soft copper, do you mean using L type instead of M? say for a new kitchen sink?
No, there are two types of coppers; soft temper and hard temper, you'll have type M, L and K in both tempers. For a kitchen sink you wanna use type L in any temper, M is for heating.
The guy on this video could script videos for many products. He is excellent. He knows what to say, what not to say. He speaks clearly. He doesn't use annoying filler words like, "and, um...".
I just installed a 3/4 coupling on a pipe from my hot water heater on the hot side and now my hot water isn't running It has an arrow and I figured it was for how the water is running my arrow is pointing upwards and still isn't running anyone able to help?
Would these be a reasonable choice for my hot water heater? For context my hot water heater died today and its from 1995. My hot/cold inlets are 1/2in copper pipe and not sure if its soft or not but I don't have the money for a technician to do a professional install. So I was thinking i could add a 1/2 to 3/4in sharkbite because the flex pipe that came with my hot water heater are 3/4in brass fittings. Is this a viable option in your opinion?
@@ws90ninety I would prefer to not have an o ring relied upon for long term, I might be a bit old school but give me a solder, threaded, or solvent weld joint.
I saw a video where a guy demonstrated how a Sharkbite ball valve can be installed on a line by simply cutting out a 2 inch section of copper and sliding the SB valve up onto the 1st end of cut pipe far enough to clear the other end of the cut pipe, then using the release tool, backing it off on that 2nd pipe end. That's great, but does SB make Tees that can also be installed like that?
The trick to remove shark teeth - push the disconnect ring in really hard with the orange clip, and *push the pipe in* hard simultaneously. (This should disengage the teeth) Then give the pipe a good tug while holding the clip in
I have a question... if you did not fully insert the required 1" pipe into Shark Bite, can't you just push the pipe in a little more until it is snugged after the fact providing that the pipe has some slack?
What materials/tools would you recommend to clean old copper pipe to best attach a new sharkbite? In another video you said to never clean the copper, yet on this one you said to always clean the copper!? So which is it? And how best to clean it? And, will it work if it's got some leftover solder (from the older copper connection), or does the old solder also need to be cleaned removed from the copper before using a sharkbite? Thanks! Btw, Love your videos, great content overall!
Yes, it's not suggested by Sharkbite to "sand down" the pipe when installing Sharkbite fittings, however, if there's solder from an existing joint, I would personally suggest to heat up the solder, wipe it off with a rag and then use some light sandpaper or emery cloth to remove the residual solder. But honestly, the best thing to do is to have it clean and untouched, so if you can just cut out that part and deburr it, I would prefer that, cheers!
@@Got2Learn But it does constrict the flow. That is one of my main complaints with regular PEX fittings, they restrict the flow. But the Mannings with the rest is better than pipe, but not much better than copper. So the restriction at the fitting diminishes flow downstream.
I prefer to sweat joints for both cost and peace of mind but have used sharkbites on many occasions mainly for transitioning from copper to PEX. You'll want to strap the pipes well to eliminate movement of the joint which could cause deflection and distort the o-ring. You can install them on soft copper you just have to hit the end with rounders first and make sure it is straight with no dings or scratches. I always remove the inserts from the fitting first. If using PEX I put the insert in the end of the pipe then push home. Not needed or recommended to use them with copper. When soft copper is cut with tubing cutters there is usually no need for champfering since the cutter leaves a nice bevel but if using on ridgid type M or L i highly recommend not skipping that step because it usually doesnt bevel in nicely like the soft k does. It all comes down to proper application and proper installation. All water mains buried in the ground in the last 50 years rely on rubber gaskets to seal each bell joint. Same principle just smaller scale.
@@tareqeg213 yes shark bites are rated for 200 degrees F just make sure your using the right pex. Pex A, B, and C have different temperature ratings and are meant for different applications
Practical info. When using a SB fitting that transitions from PEX to CPVC for example, is this fitting material specific? Meaning, is one side only for CPVC and the other side for PEX? Or does it not matter? Can replacement "O" rings for SB fittings be purchased separately, in case one is damaged?
sharkbite dŏ t com/resources/faqs/universal-brass-push-fittings-faqs Can the tube liner be removed? Yes. The tube liner can easily be removed by pulling it past the o-ring, with the aid of the SharkBite Disconnect Clip or Disconnect Tongs (both sold separately). The tube support liner can drop out of the fittings as it can move freely past the grab ring. Needle nose pliers may be used to pull the tube support liner out. NOTE: The tube liner is necessary for use with PEX, HDPE or PE-RT Pipe. It is not required for copper or CPVC, however, it is not necessary to remove the tube liner from the fitting.
For hard copper remove the pipe stiffing, most cases where there is a leak in hard copper it is because it was installed with this fitting and it obstructs the connection. On PEX, CPVC it helps to strengthen the joint. It is bot needed with the copper wall.
@@alsworkshop135 Hey Al, could you please explain what the this “pipe stiffening” is that’s not needed for the copper wall. I’m going to use this shark bite on a connection of copper to CPVC. So, I’m assuming you’re referring to the copper side of this attachment. I just don’t know how to identify what you’re saying to leave off (or out) of the copper end. Thanks
@@RUclipsStudio101 yes, on the copper side of the connection you can remove the plastic piece on the inside of the sharkbite. I use needle-nose pliers to remove it.
Important. When using sharkbite on copper it is okay to remove the plastic insert. The plastic insert is only there to support soft tubing. It is not needed for copper. Not removing the insert will restrict the flow. If you can live with less flow it's okay to leave the insert, but if you want maximum flow through the pipe remove the plastic insert with a pair of needle nose pliers as per instructions
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The guy on this video could script videos for many products. He is excellent. He knows what to say, what not to say. He speaks clearly. He doesn't use annoying filler words like, "and, um...".
Thank you so much for your kind comments Susan!
I have tried for 30 years here and there to sweat in copper pipes when we had a water issue or rather a pipe issue and have never been able to pull it off. Then today we had a problem with the pipes in the shower. Had to cut the sheet rock out to get to the pipes and because I thought I couldn’t do it (because I couldn’t sweat in pipes, I let this idiot that was staying here temporarily fix it. Couldn’t pull it off! Then there was another one that stepped up-same result. Finally I said I’m going to do it. First I watch you tutorial on sweating pipes. After I finished watching it I got two pieces and a coupling and I did it the first time!!!! I couldn’t believe it! Omg! So let me just say you should have been a teacher cause the way you taught that tutorial was excellent! I am so grateful! Keep up the excellent work!
This was SOOO helpful. The warning about soft copper was especially useful and explains a current issue I'm having.
What issue are you having? I just realized I installed a skarkbite on soft copper, and I'm hoping I don't have any issues. So far so good though.
Can't decide what I like most about this guy:
- the accent
- the humor
- the thorough content
😁
How bout an equal mix of all 3 :)?
I've worked in the HVAC field over 30 years. I'm still watching, reading and learning from books, other technicians and even videos like yours. You can always learn something new, even if it is a small detail, it can mean big savings in time and labor later.
Thanks for the video.
😇😇😇
I'm 30 year hvac mechanic too and thought : Hey I might learn something new about sharkbite fittings. Never too old to learn something new.
I am in HVAC business. Haven't even used regular caplings in a while. Just use a tool to expand copper pipe and than stick one into other
After 30 years as an HVAC tech you should probably know damn near everything about your job by now and shark bites aren't very professional they're quick and easy but they're not the correct way, they really should only be used in a pinch when It comes to copper solder it, when it comes to PVC or CPVC glue it, When it comes to pex throw it in the trash lol jk crimp that shit
no dude shark bites are garbage lol
Good to see others use my tool of choice, the ice pick
You mean!!!????
It's NOT just for shotgunnin beers!!???
I use my teeth.
No touch karate with a whole lotta chi… works every time. Be like water-Bruce Lee
😅😄😂🤣
Don't mean to flex but I just picked up the new Festool Arctic22 Ice Pick.
Excellent advice with a most clever sense of humor . It was direct and clear . Post others like this and you will own the fixit internet . Well done !
🤩🤩🤩
Best SharkBite tips video I’ve seen. Glad you added no Vaseline to it, too many folk show no mercy to the beloved “O” ring. You covered all I can think of Bro!
Wow, thank you!
Always ensure your tip is clean before inserting.... wisdom of the age.
I had to do it 🤣
"Get silicone lubricant so that it is easier to go in" is a close second. Especially for older parts!
🤣🤣🤣
Yah that's why cavemen dragged their women home by the hair and not by the feet they don't fill up with dirt
Make sure you have you Pipe Dope handy!
“Cut with an ice pick”!, outstanding! Great vid as always.
🤣🤣🤣👍🤩👍
Ice pick made my day 👍
🤣🤣🤣
Or smash with ice breaker 😀
lol, i love the "let me kick the pipe into the fitting" part, that cracked me up m8. But seriously, good vid as always
I've seen it done, and it's not even funny lol 🤣🤣
I would've used the ice pick.
Works like a charm with galvanized unions!
Been using these for a few years and they work very well specially on repairs where soldering is almost impossible when the pipes have to much water in them. It only takes a few drops of water to ruin a soldering job, then you have to start all over.
😉
When water is a problem stuff some wadded up bread in there then solder it up before it melts away. It will flush right out when you charge the line later
I use white bread make a dough ball and put it in the dripping pipe ,solder and flush out the dough
I repiped from galvanized to PEX using sharkbites, I wish that war was only a weekend, lol. Good points, and things I did not encounter since I was not using copper in any way. From my own experience, I would add a couple of things. First, don't expect PEX to hold itself as well as metal pipe. You are going to have to strap and support it through long runs and when you might have counted on a rigid pipe to provide some passive stability on fixtures, you will be disappointed. Since we're on the topic of strapping, don't use wire to tie PEX along floor joists and such. Over time, it will cut through the PEX slowly. Next, don't let the PEX touch the soil or become exposed to even partial light, the pipe will decay quickly. Finally, if you are repiping be aware that the builder might have used your metal piping as a ground for your wiring. You may need to carry a ground wire to where your metal piping still exists and connects underground, for me, it was the supply line from the utilities district. You would be safer buying and driving down a ground stake and connect grounds to that to protect your house from electrical fire...All that being said, I loved the advantages of PEX and the price and durability was comparable to favorable over metal piping. It has been ten years now, and no troubles.
So you have to plumb pex in at night?
Awesome. Had a plumber ignore all these steps using shark bites and cause more problems. Fixing it myself using these tips. Thank you!!
He prob isn’t a licensed plumber if he’s using sharkbites to do his plumbing work.
@@johnmoniz2715 I found that out the hard way.
I use shark bite, but never inside a wall! Only where you can easily check them for leaks.
💯
That's dumb
Bury them deep
In norway its against the law to have it inside walls, unless you want a ugly hatch 😂
Check the inside of your fitting for an anti theft magnet. Bought one from Lowe’s recently and saw it stuck on the inside of the fitting.
😯😯😯
Not going to lie…. I actually laughed out loud when you kicked the pipe.
Great video!
I just want to thank you for posting this your videos they are very helpful for a person such as myself that does not know plumbing all that well. I have learned a lot from your videos.and I want to personally thank you!!!!! have a great day and God bless.
So nice of you!!!
I see a lot of old-school plumbers are on this page, guys who love to rant about Sharkbite fittings. Fact: Sharkbite fittings have their place. They are reliable, durable and cost effective when labor is factored in. They can withstand temperature extremes, and can be released during renovations or repairs. I see the same resistance to new ideas from old-school carpenters. Just don't hire an old-school guy! Hire someone who is up to speed instead.
I've been plumbing for the last forty-five or so years. I have never hesitated to keep my mind open to new ideas, and when Sharkbites came along I gave them a try. Installed properly, they are dependable. Sure, installed by a sloppy guy who doesn't care, they'll leak.
Well said!
Yes, same with a glue(weld), soldered, or threaded fitting too. A leak is possible in any fitting if not properly installed.
You better have good insurance on your house if you plan to use these in your house
@@redlobster4841 properly installed these fittings are great, i have multiple shark bite fittings in my house going from copper to PEX where repairs were needed in my basement. In two years, living in North Dakota, a state with 150 degree temperature change I haven't had a single problem
Got ones all over my house ,12 yrs now no problem .
Very informative video.
Using an ice pick...lol!
Making sure the end of pipe is clean before insertion into fitting. Also good advice for the bedroom.😯
Thank you for cutting to the chase and not having annoying banjo music.
Awesome man, thx!!! 👌👌👌
you do a fantastic job on all your videos and very excited to see this channel grow ... and your sense of humor is so fun too. not many people can pull that off
Thank you so much @Thor Eric, a true loyal fan you are :)
I’m using the SharkBite end stop product for the first time. Your video made the process so much easier. Thank you!
I do not know why people hate shark bite. Im a licensed plumber and use them often. Shark bite and pro press. I do not solder. I never had no call back on these fittings. I even shark bite my own water heater and angle stops and home. Never had a problem. The key with shark bite. Make sure the fitting is home!! If not it will leak or blow off. Far as that i use them often behind walls i never had a call back. Most old school plumbers hate shark bite, pro press, any compression fitting. 😂😂😂
If you a license plumber then I’m super man cut the shit lol
I don't know any licensed plumbers who uses sharkbite or push fittings.
Mike Jones man telling you once I read his comment bro I’m literally up going to work for a union plumbing shop for the last 4 years and anybody here even say sharkbite it’s a sin in the plumbing trade lol
Mike Jones we recently ripped out a whole house that was piped out in sharkpipe a fucking nightmare home owner hack job
@@bugattivi7110
You said the key word. Owner did it he wasn't a plumber. I would never pipe a whole house using shark bite. I only use it in certain situations. And i am a plumber. Most old school plumbers hate shark bite because they simply do not know how to use it. And pro press machines.
This vid was hilarious!!😂😂😂
I've been using them for about 2 years now and haven't seen such craziness!!! "But.. I kicked it in.."😂⏬😂😂😂
great sense of humor while still teaching us
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Just installed one of these and it is still slightly leaking. Glad I came across your video, now I believe I did not insert it far enough. Now I also know that I can remove it easily and reinsert it for a better fitting.
Thank you!
The Shark Bite Depth Gauge should be cast in to every fitting so they are always immediately visible available just like strip gauges on electrical Outlet receptacles.
Amen to that!!
Right. I just today put on a SharkBite shut-off for a kitchen sink. That depth is only half an inch and it wasn't easy to see things inside the cabinet. I thought they make one that "clicks" when it's properly inserted?
@@liman42 I feel you. I don't know if the ones I've used click or if they do it is not always audible with or above ambient sounds or My Radio. What I need to do is get a High Quality LED Rechargable/AA Battery Head Lamp Safety Classes for Dark work places like that. Because My old AA Incandescent Work Headlamp is timing out.
Nobody uses the strip gauge
@@DemnRaig80 You mean You don't. I can smell your electric work burning now.
By far the best video showing the use of copper to CPVC via a shark bite. This was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!!
Awesome 🤩🤩🤩
Awesome video as always. Learned so much from your videos and will continue to learn. I've never used sharkbite fittings, but have always used propress and solder fittings. Your videos on soldering have helped me to do it correctly! Cool man!
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Read a lot about Sharkbites on RUclips, its pros and cons and decided to replace Accor Lite push -pull valves that started to leak ( internally) after 7 years of use . Followed all the cleaning /square cut as well as checking the insert depth and the 2 clicks that ensures proper Sharkbite Installation. The depth is more key as you may not totally notice the 2 clicks if you push hard /fast enough enough so Depth is more critical than the 2 clicks as basis for proper insert. It's been 2 years so far with no leaks on about a 18 units
replacements. I also purposely opened and closed 1 unit 50 times after a year of use and there was no leak unlike the Accor Lite valve I used to have that started to leak even with less than 10 open/closes. The 25 year guarantee on Sharkbite as well as some inputs from plumbing friends who attest they did not have any issue if properly installed made me try this out.
U can actually use those parts on soft cu pipes, but you have to put in a support sleeve inside the pipe 👍🏼
Thank you! The cold water line for my new hot water heater was leaking horribly bad after we installed it. Turns out it was an I-D-10-T error! I'm about to go try again after watching your video. ❤
Thank you, don't forget to share :)
Thanks again I just learned that there is soft and hard copper. unfortunately, I believe I have soft copper and galvanized pipes ok. so like yeah I'm learning and figuring out what can and cannot be done and eventually after 9000 hours of research I will have a plan. Its funny how I keep finding more and more videos from your channel that is very relevant. thanks.
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I just used one of these on our water heater. They're all our local hardware store sells anymore. I had no idea they could be reused, thanks!
boom!
Ok so most of us use common sense. That being said, this is great how to because nobody has any. De- burring every thing is key. Cleaning as well. Waiting toll the pipe is cool also. And love the fact he pointed out how petroleum is not what to use. You will end up with more cracks than a room full of plumbers!
Excellent,.....this video underscores the steps that need to be taken to ensure the success of Sharkbite connections. Many thanks.
Thank you sooooo much!!!
I never install a Shark bite fitting without plumbing grease, you will inadvertently damage the o-ring shorting it's life, once it is debured properly, remember that a file can leave marks that can cut the o-ring, that's where the Plumbing grease comes in, clean the outside of the pipe in a circular pattern so the scratches go around the pipe as shown in the video, not length wise as this can provide a path for water to escape, grease the pipe to protect the O-ring and insert to the proper depth with the pipe in line as shown in the video and I've never had a leak when I do these steps, Great video!
Good input, thank you so much!!
Sharkbite O-rings are already greased. Another similar brand, Push & Connect, doesn't grease its O-rings. So I agree: use a bit of grease just to be sure. Your advice on sanding the pipe in a circular pattern is bang on.
I made the very first mistake, so I will disassemble, mark the depth and do it again!
Thanks for the tips!
Sharkbite fittings work on pressurized systems like standard house plumbing, but they will fail if the system is under vacuum. Learned this while trying to draw water up from a cistern using a pump. The vacuum pulls air into the fitting, and the system cannot maintain a prime.
Does it just suck the o-rings through? I have put them under suction with no issue but maybe it wasn't to the pressure you did?
Thank you for this lesson, and for providing the depth chart.
My pleasure!
has the code solidified the use of Shark Bite behind closed walls yet? Canada and USA ?. We have been not using them behind closed walls , and if we did, we ensured there was an utility entrance near by to get to them.( arms reach ) .. unless that's just the practice of the guys I work with. Our COE prefers them when inspecting as well. I, also for insurance reasons, needed a Master plumber to sign off on work and the first thing he wanted to ensure was NO Shark Bite type behind closed walls. I am starting to think that is just an older plumbers preference..
I still don't think it's being enforced. I personally know plumbers who use Sharkbites all the time in walls and they never have any call backs, but yeah, maybe in a few years we'll be seeing them a little more ;)
No there is a reason. They are not for permanent use.
The "ice pick" almost made me fall off my chair...LMFAO!!👍🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thanks I should've watched this before installing angle stop valve with faucet connector. I have a small leak and need to remove stop valve. Great video 👌🏾
Thank you so much!!!
Total fail...for me .... leaking...I guess the guy at home Depot should have directed me to debarring...he told me sandpaper...
I like this vid. Push-on fittings require greater care with the preparation of the pipe, but in return you get to skip the fire. This vid gets that across.
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Disagree 100%. You need to take the exact same care with deburring and cleaning the pipe as you would with soldering. It's the exact same process, minus the flux and torch.
Can you share a video on how to cut copper pipe with the ice pick? :)
Hold it with your feet while chopping
@@Watchout1010 And the great thing is if you chop your toe off doing this just use a handy sharkbite fitting to put your toe back in afterwards.Genius stuff.
Your video was suggested a few times and finally I bit! Glad I watched as lots of good tips that make sense were shared! Thanks again!
Thank you so much man, really appreciate your kind words 🤘🤘🤘
Good information. Although, thus far, sharkbite has not been in my DYI tool kit.
You are really a complete reference for each topic that you tackle 👍
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1:07 LOL! I was like, "wait ... what did I just hear???" The perfect all-around tool I guess! I want one!
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I cut my copper pipes with an ice pick all the time. Highly recommended! :P
Retired Engineer, I began using push fittings in early 80's plumbing large machinery, and plastic injection molds.
The main reason we used them on injection molds was the ability to reuse them. Not reuse the entire fitting, but replace flexible plastic tubing quickly. Doing injection mold changes and plumbing repairs always came down to speed, the faster the mold could be put in, and pulled out of the machinery used to run them, the better. Saving time saves money lost through downtime. Many times several dozen lengths of tubing had to be removed for a mold to clear obstacles, so if only the tubing had to be slipped out, then back in after setting, and before pulling the mold, and the fittings didn't need threaded out, then back in, it saved enormous amounts of time using push fittings. Just swap out tubing, leave the fittings alone. These fittings were usually good for 12 to 15 times before becoming undependable, so I wouldn't worry about reusing them 4 or 5 times for one of my personal projects.
I have used them about everywhere possible in industry over the past 40 years with very few problems. The biggest issue was burrs on tubing ends, and tubing not being completely inserted into the push lock.
Follow the simple installation rules, and save time, which usually equals money.
I will say, this Shark bite brand has really put itself out there marketing wise as I have been seeing a lot about it, seems more so than other brands over the years.
Great advice. Always clean the tip before inserting and use lube.
"If you get kicked in the ...., you will leak too!" Best line in a how-to video.😂😂👍👍
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I know one thing, having a shark bite valve handy when a line breaks and there isn’t a valve accessible is awesome. You will get wet but just push the valve on with it open and close once installed. The only downside is the o-ring could possibly come out but only has one time before. I hope this helps anyone!
Great tip!
THANK U
I will pu 1 or 2
God willing i won't need
You can do the same thing with a compression stop
@@time1800 I wouldn’t want anything compression that’s inside a wall or hard to reach location. A compression stop you have to install the nut and ferrule before you even can start to isolate the problem. I do agree with you that it will work though. I have encountered situations non residential when valves aren’t present to add what’s called a “add a valve” this installs on the pipe and cuts a knockout in the line and shuts the water off. Then you can install a sweat valve or pro press valve in place. Another alternative I have used is to use a freeze machine when valves aren’t installed. I have a nice RIDGID pro press tool that’s even better than a shark bite system. This will actually crimp the fitting or valve in place for a permanent fix but cost a few grand for a system of jaw sizes. Also if you ever need to get a shark bite off without the tool just use a crescent wrench and tap it on the plastic with a hammer or channel locks whatever you have. This way you can reuse the fittings or valves after use. I hope any of this information helps anyone.
@@VAMCVETS But your ok with a rubber O'Ring?
Brief but very helpful and well-made video. Thank you.
The depth gauge is also the outside de-burring tool , this stuff works great just as long as you follow the instillation rules to a tee !
Nicely done. Succinct. Good illustrations. And the 7th point is: deburr both outside and inside of the pipe!
Biggest mistake is saying reliable and using them as a permanent fix. Should only be used if you do not know how to do a real repair job such as sweating or bruising.It should only be used if you have a plumbing problem that you can fix with this as a temporary fix especially on a holiday when you don’t wanna have to pay extra to have plumbing repair. But when it is feasible have a plumber do it the right way
Most new homes now have pex in them. There's nothing wrong with shark bite fittings as long as you know what you're doing. Copper is very pricey in today's world. In very confined spaces it's kind of tough to get a torch to do anything without burning wood. I'd prefer not to use a plumber unless I have to because they do not care what they trash in the process of getting the job done. I do care.
plumber here, yeah thats all good stuff, sharkbite are very easy to install, very expensive but makes the project quicker, the depth gauge is a good idea though not necessary if you know where that point is and do all the other things to make a good seal.
Weekend warrior here, great vid thanks. Plumbing task complete and didn’t have to call a plumber. Feels good to learn something new and self accomplishment. I enjoyed your soldering copper pipe as well-good stuff.
Thank you 🤗🤗🤗
You will call one when that rubber o-ring gives out. It will give out. Then that piece of copper you tied onto will have to be cut because of the corrosion caused to the copper by the water. They are for quick fixes and not permanent.
@@texan4life129 good to know, thank you. I’ll keep an eye on it.
@@Smuggler169 soldering is very easy. I've been a plumber for 20 years and I would recommend this guys video on soldering to learn how. Very good instructor.
I've migrated solely to Sharkbites to minimize soldering and convenience. I've marked how deep they should go from the early start. I've deburred copper but now I want to get the tool. I spend too much time deburring with a file, and it's not always right. I have silicone oil for other rubber applications, but now I'm going to use it on the o-ring here. I've had problems removing Sharkbites on copper, but I'm getting a better grasp on it. The tool doesn't allow me to fully push the seal in, so I use a crescent wrench to push in the seal. I'm probably using the orange remover tool incorrectly.
Haha where did you find an ice pick my guy. Made me chuckle
An outdoor sporting goods store.
Amazing intonation, and presentation, of course! Thanks!
One thing I never see nor hear about is the affect on homes with a poor ground on copper pipes. When you install shark bites in this scenario, it makes the electrolysis process worse.
Yes, with SB you need to "jump" the fittings.
What?? Do explain please.
Your home's ground needs to be bypassed if you use a Sharkbite fitting.
If you are talking electrolysis by going from copper to ferrous, you are mistaken about a poor ground. Whenever going from copper to steel one needs a dielectric fitting or "jump it". Sparkies love to ground to a utility vs/drive a copper grounding spike
Plumbing is the one trade I’ve been least familiar with.. your videos are great!!
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the copper I have used was soft for a few years or until we moved them back and forth too much
Great video and style. Lot of content, no annoying stories.
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Very detailed. Thank. I did everything but mine looks alittle out of line. It’s been 3 weeks since repair and no leaks. I may just leave it
Great information and glad I watched this one. BTW, someone else has used your video with their narration not even matching what is being shown on the video. They're talking about one thing and a different thing is being shown on the video. Thanks again.
Thanks for the info! Yeah that happens a lot unfortunately 😕
Thanks for these tips man i had to learn the hardway first though lol
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I laughed out loud about the kicking it in.....good video,thanks.
Making a test gauge out of a piece of clear flat plastic it’s something I did when I ran into a situation where I didn’t have enough slack in pipe to pull it together or push it apart
Works very well too, thanks IRON!
I’d love to see a video on this. I’m wondering what do do if you don’t have enough slack to push it together.
you can look up a guide on how to remove the sharkbite if you put it on and it's leaking (my copper was bent and had to remove). This video helped me a lot, thanks!
Excellent presentation! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it, please share if you can, it really helps out the channel AJ, thanks!!!
Learned of shark bites a few yrs ago. At first I was like what are they talking about? The tips you showed are awesome and very helpful. Thank you for your help and Video. W,R, 🇨🇦🇺🇸🇨🇦🇺🇸🤔🤔👍👍🌈🌈🤳🤳
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Do I have to remove the inside plastic when I'm putting a sharkbite on copper?
You don't have to remove it.
It is best to remove it because it restricts the flow but like he says you don't have to but if you want one of them don't want to restrict your flow you need to remove it needle-nose pliers works best
your videos are awesome...such a great help for us novice DYI weekend " wanna be plumbers"...thank you.... Question: by soft copper, do you mean using L type instead of M? say for a new kitchen sink?
No, there are two types of coppers; soft temper and hard temper, you'll have type M, L and K in both tempers. For a kitchen sink you wanna use type L in any temper, M is for heating.
@@Got2Learn Thanks G2L ..
@@hexhex7220 🙏
Very informative. Hey can you also make a video on shower valves. Thank you very much
Thank you so much, yes I will.
The guy on this video could script videos for many products. He is excellent. He knows what to say, what not to say. He speaks clearly. He doesn't use annoying filler words like, "and, um...".
I just installed a 3/4 coupling on a pipe from my hot water heater on the hot side and now my hot water isn't running It has an arrow and I figured it was for how the water is running my arrow is pointing upwards and still isn't running anyone able to help?
Would these be a reasonable choice for my hot water heater?
For context my hot water heater died today and its from 1995. My hot/cold inlets are 1/2in copper pipe and not sure if its soft or not but I don't have the money for a technician to do a professional install. So I was thinking i could add a 1/2 to 3/4in sharkbite because the flex pipe that came with my hot water heater are 3/4in brass fittings. Is this a viable option in your opinion?
Sure, just watch my Sharkbite playlist before in case and you should be good: ruclips.net/p/PLLEVGyi2B-cb98lELYPFb4bWrYgsZ0fH2
I like the shark bite fittings for temporary use during a project but I don't like them as part of the permanent installation.
Why?
@@ws90ninety I would prefer to not have an o ring relied upon for long term, I might be a bit old school but give me a solder, threaded, or solvent weld joint.
I saw a video where a guy demonstrated how a Sharkbite ball valve can be installed on a line by simply cutting out a 2 inch section of copper and sliding the SB valve up onto the 1st end of cut pipe far enough to clear the other end of the cut pipe, then using the release tool, backing it off on that 2nd pipe end. That's great, but does SB make Tees that can also be installed like that?
@@VaxxedStories yes, they make dedicated Tees!!
The trick to remove shark teeth - push the disconnect ring in really hard with the orange clip, and *push the pipe in* hard simultaneously. (This should disengage the teeth) Then give the pipe a good tug while holding the clip in
Use an adjustable wrench, way easier in my opinion.
Very informative and quick, thanks for the video!
Chris fix of plumbers
I'll take that as a very nice compliment, thanks Alex!!
@@Got2Learn except you're not afraid to show your face
Hehe ☺
@@Got2Learndo you use these in your customers homes as a professional plumber? Do you trust them, do you guarantee them and if so for how long?
@7x779 I don't but a lot of plumbers do.
Clean your pipe before you get kicked in the cajones! Lesson learned. Another great video brother.
:)))))))
I have a question... if you did not fully insert the required 1" pipe into Shark Bite, can't you just push the pipe in a little more until it is snugged after the fact providing that the pipe has some slack?
The best way to verify is to have the mark, without the mark you can't be sure at 100%..
Yes
Good video, made me aware of a couple of new areas! Thanks
Bob
England
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What materials/tools would you recommend to clean old copper pipe to best attach a new sharkbite? In another video you said to never clean the copper, yet on this one you said to always clean the copper!? So which is it? And how best to clean it? And, will it work if it's got some leftover solder (from the older copper connection), or does the old solder also need to be cleaned removed from the copper before using a sharkbite? Thanks! Btw, Love your videos, great content overall!
Yes, it's not suggested by Sharkbite to "sand down" the pipe when installing Sharkbite fittings, however, if there's solder from an existing joint, I would personally suggest to heat up the solder, wipe it off with a rag and then use some light sandpaper or emery cloth to remove the residual solder. But honestly, the best thing to do is to have it clean and untouched, so if you can just cut out that part and deburr it, I would prefer that, cheers!
If it looks like shit, I just use a normal pipe cleaner and make it shiny, just like if I was going to solder it. Haven't had one fail yet?
Excellent. Perfect information. Thanks for taking the time.
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You’re also supposed to remove the stiffener inside when using it on ridged pipe like copper and cpvc.
Sharkbite says it doesn't matter.
@@Got2Learn But it does constrict the flow. That is one of my main complaints with regular PEX fittings, they restrict the flow. But the Mannings with the rest is better than pipe, but not much better than copper. So the restriction at the fitting diminishes flow downstream.
No you’re not. They are specific to Pex and copper. The inner sleeve is actually two different diameters.
Thanks for this video buddy..really helped avoid mistakes...
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I prefer to sweat joints for both cost and peace of mind but have used sharkbites on many occasions mainly for transitioning from copper to PEX. You'll want to strap the pipes well to eliminate movement of the joint which could cause deflection and distort the o-ring. You can install them on soft copper you just have to hit the end with rounders first and make sure it is straight with no dings or scratches. I always remove the inserts from the fitting first. If using PEX I put the insert in the end of the pipe then push home. Not needed or recommended to use them with copper. When soft copper is cut with tubing cutters there is usually no need for champfering since the cutter leaves a nice bevel but if using on ridgid type M or L i highly recommend not skipping that step because it usually doesnt bevel in nicely like the soft k does. It all comes down to proper application and proper installation. All water mains buried in the ground in the last 50 years rely on rubber gaskets to seal each bell joint. Same principle just smaller scale.
can i copper to pex for a water heater?
@@tareqeg213 yes shark bites are rated for 200 degrees F just make sure your using the right pex. Pex A, B, and C have different temperature ratings and are meant for different applications
Practical info.
When using a SB fitting that transitions from PEX to CPVC for example, is this fitting material specific? Meaning, is one side only for CPVC and the other side for PEX?
Or does it not matter? Can replacement "O" rings for SB fittings be purchased separately, in case one is damaged?
Any thoughts on leaving the pipe stiffening insert in the fitting when used on hard pipe?
Yes, you need to leave it in, copper or PEX.
sharkbite dŏ t com/resources/faqs/universal-brass-push-fittings-faqs
Can the tube liner be removed?
Yes. The tube liner can easily be removed by pulling it past the o-ring, with the aid of the SharkBite Disconnect Clip or Disconnect Tongs (both sold separately). The tube support liner can drop out of the fittings as it can move freely past the grab ring. Needle nose pliers may be used to pull the tube support liner out.
NOTE: The tube liner is necessary for use with PEX, HDPE or PE-RT Pipe. It is not required for copper or CPVC, however, it is not necessary to remove the tube liner from the fitting.
For hard copper remove the pipe stiffing, most cases where there is a leak in hard copper it is because it was installed with this fitting and it obstructs the connection. On PEX, CPVC it helps to strengthen the joint. It is bot needed with the copper wall.
@@alsworkshop135 Hey Al, could you please explain what the this “pipe stiffening” is that’s not needed for the copper wall. I’m going to use this shark bite on a connection of copper to CPVC. So, I’m assuming you’re referring to the copper side of this attachment. I just don’t know how to identify what you’re saying to leave off (or out) of the copper end.
Thanks
@@RUclipsStudio101 yes, on the copper side of the connection you can remove the plastic piece on the inside of the sharkbite. I use needle-nose pliers to remove it.
Great tips. I'm getting ready to do a Sharkbite T installation right now. Thanks for the heads up.
Great video and great info! I especially like your super-plausible examples, like drilling the stud with the fittings laying there. Great job!
Very interesting points man, they help a lot, keep up the good work you do by teaching!
I appreciate that!!!
Important. When using sharkbite on copper it is okay to remove the plastic insert. The plastic insert is only there to support soft tubing. It is not needed for copper. Not removing the insert will restrict the flow. If you can live with less flow it's okay to leave the insert, but if you want maximum flow through the pipe remove the plastic insert with a pair of needle nose pliers as per instructions
Agreed! 👍🏼
Really?? Why am I just learning this??
The flow rate is minimal if any
i was looking for this answer ! thanks you a million for sharing !!
I love sharkbite valves because they are adjustable and if you have to replace it it's easy to do. No more having to cut pipes and put a new vavle on.