The edge insulation is levelled in. Upside down hawk works well as a large float. The less cement used the more compact it needs to be. But thanks for your comments.
I can see what you are doing and why you're doing it. You're doing a one off screed with basic tools and no fancy aluminium edges or tools that professional screeders use. The clue is in the name "DIY". Well done mate.
Not a bad way of doing it but now we just use a laser level and datum line but this is DIY and it got the job done - love to see those who troll others. Show us your work then - muppets?
Great job dont listen to those a holes Bernie (as im sure your not) what ever works for you. iv worked on so many sites over the years iv see work done every type of way as long as the end result is good and flat and strong it dosnt matter how you do it. 4 hours to screed an area that big aint bad at all.
Don’t know why people are slagging you off Bernie? Putting those timbers down will make it much easier for a diyer. It might not be perfectly level but you can’t always get it level anyway as you’re meeting up with the old floor and external doorways! By the time you’ve rubbed it back and wacked your floor covering on no one will give a shit anyway. No one’s gonna break out the laser level and a straight edge to thoroughly check it. Ignore the sad fucking jobsworths on here. Good work mate.
Thanks Slashley. You can see it, most of the aggressive commentators can't. Their comments say more about them than me. There are skilled youtube videos that can be viewed for a balanced view but mine is different and could as you say give ideas for diyers.
Hi hope you are well, if you only had a small area around 1m x 1.5m and didnt have access to a mechanical mixer, how would you go about mixing the screed please thanks?
No compression was done and therefore the PSI stength is way below what it should be. Next thing is that there is no need for wooden guides to be removed after the first thing that should be done is dry pack guides smoothed out and a bit moist even to get a sheen on it.
Compression is me walking on it and tamping it down, The wooden guides are because DIY people find It difficult to screed off sand and cement guides. 6 years now and It is still there.
Thanks for this video. Two things perplex me though: 1) Why the chicken wire (if for reinforcing it seems very weak and open to corrosion. Would not steel mesh have been better?). 2) Ready mix screed has fibre in it (which considerably increases its strength. Why did you not add fibre to your mix?
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Bern Clark I wonder why all that gobbledygook is in your post! I am intending to lay 75mm screed over concrete for an extension of internal diameter 7.15m x 3.97m (celotex insulation is laid below the concrete in this case). For this I need around 2m3 of screed. I will be doing a 4:1 mix and have calculated I need 904 kg cement and 2701 kg sharp sand. From my local builder merchant (at which I get reasonable discounts) 36 x 25kg bags of cement and 3 bulk bags of sharps sand will cost: £265.50 +VAT. However delivery of 2m3 of screed will cost £290+VAT. As the readymix screed comes with fibre mixed in and should be more uniformly mixed (and better mixed) than I'd be able to get it by hand mixing it seems best to me to get the readymix. But I am surprised that the difference is price is so little. The fibre should stop it cracking but as the area includes a number of large reveals, the (stupid) ufh heating egg trays and ufh pipes will mean that the screed is quite thin in places, so I'm tempted to use a flexible mesh too. I'll see if i can track some down. Again. Thanks.
I like the way you have done this I'm going to do my own screed but I'm not sure about the 6 to 1 mix as online it says use 4 to 1 or even 3 to 1 and use fibres and sharp sand ? and the confusing thing is the ready mix I'm sure is sand not sharp sand lol but thanks for the vid I'm sure I'll work this out eventually lol
Come with me for a day and I'll show you how it's done. Should work of a datum line... (laser level) no need for those batten rails. You could play snooker on it after. Fair play to you giving it a go and posting this video helping the weekend DIYs bashers feel like real men.
The ability to screed a floor does not make you a man, i'll go to work, earn more than you do and then pay you to do my house ha ha ha- that's an intelligent man.
The floor I laid is over laid with wood so joints and not a good finish is not important. If you require a good finish then by all means do it a bit at a time but you will need to be sure you make a good joint.
Were is your Edge strip is used with solid (concrete screed) floors around the edge of a room to provide an expansion gap for the floor as it heats up and cools down. 150 mm wide x 8 mm thick and Once the entire pipe has been installed the system should then be pressure tested with water. This will ensure that there are no leaks in the manifold, joints or pipes. The screed should be laid immediately after and pressure should be left on while this is being laid. A standard sand and cement screed should be laid in accordance with CP8204. It should be well mixed, well compacted, 75mm thick, and cured not dried and yes I agree with Lebanon1904 you were laying it wrong you are making it hard for your self you know now for next time if you do it all the best pal
The under solid concrete has expansion edging. The heating pipes do not have any joints that get covered. All was pressure tested for some days before laying commended. Thank you voodoo.
Hey mate, this isnt the right way to screed floors at all I have been doing tiling for almost 30 years, but never seen any thing like that before The way u are doing it is wrong, sorry, i don't mean to be rude but you made it look hard, always do the borders level, use either laser level or water level if u want perfect level, then start screeding with a long straight edge, the longer the better.
You need to learn how to do it right posting rubbish like this, who floats up using a upside down plastering hawk you need a dry screed all around edge to get levels right work you way out, floor screed has always been 3/1 in england and always will be, hope no one copy's this way off working
Sorry Bernie but I have to alert your followers that you are making a shambles of that, 1:6 (cement to grit) is not right, 1:3 for heavy duty floors, 1:4 for domestic floors. 1:6 screed over underfloor heating is not fit for purpose. Also use a 3m long straight edge between screed bars as this helps avoid uneven floor finish (though is not fool proof) :).
Hi Steve. Thank you for your comments it will help followers to decide. Shamble not really a good description. Taking your points in order a 1: 6 mixed properly and compacted is adequate for a wood covered floor and it is retained all around. A 3 meter straight edge in this instant is to long. As I explained the exciting floor has a sag to the middle and both ends are not level to each other. Hence I put a level line around the perimeter so as to bring the extremes almost level therefor a short leveling tool is best and easier for DIY. It is easy to have general rules for the perfect condition. The floor has been down for 5 years now and is still good.
Was looking around and came across this vid. Anyone out there thinking of doing a DIY floor screed don't everything in this video post is wrong this floor won't last top layer will come off and mix is too dry so you can bet your life there hollows in there which will crack in the end....and why would you need a hammer when your screeding a floor ? I'm not trying to be nasty to you but you got it all wrong from the start pal I've been plastering for 14+yrs and I've never done it this way
Why bother doing a job if you don't know what you're doing and you can't even leave a good finish this is not the way to screed the floor wow what a Muppet(don't try this at home)
The edge insulation is levelled in. Upside down hawk works well as a large float. The less cement used the more compact it needs to be. But thanks for your comments.
Awesome, was just about to pay someone to do this. Great video.
I can see what you are doing and why you're doing it. You're doing a one off screed with basic tools and no fancy aluminium edges or tools that professional screeders use. The clue is in the name "DIY".
Well done mate.
Thanks Bern thats been so helpful ................Im another wife with a wheelbarrow :)
I'm liking your way of doing it. Helped out so much. Going to give it a go tommorow. Cheers
She is poo
Not a bad way of doing it but now we just use a laser level and datum line but this is DIY and it got the job done - love to see those who troll others. Show us your work then - muppets?
Great job dont listen to those a holes Bernie (as im sure your not) what ever works for you. iv worked on so many sites over the years iv see work done every type of way as long as the end result is good and flat and strong it dosnt matter how you do it. 4 hours to screed an area that big aint bad at all.
Hello, did you not put bases first? Although with the hand level you go long, greetings
187 negative from 187 master of opinions😂
Good work Bernie.
lovely job bern
Don’t know why people are slagging you off Bernie? Putting those timbers down will make it much easier for a diyer. It might not be perfectly level but you can’t always get it level anyway as you’re meeting up with the old floor and external doorways! By the time you’ve rubbed it back and wacked your floor covering on no one will give a shit anyway. No one’s gonna break out the laser level and a straight edge to thoroughly check it. Ignore the sad fucking jobsworths on here. Good work mate.
Thanks Slashley.
You can see it, most of the aggressive commentators can't. Their comments say more about them than me. There are skilled youtube videos that can be viewed for a balanced view but mine is different and could as you say give ideas for diyers.
Great video, Do you need to water the floor in next few weeks or days ?
Hi hope you are well, if you only had a small area around 1m x 1.5m and didnt have access to a mechanical mixer, how would you go about mixing the screed please thanks?
No compression was done and therefore the PSI stength is way below what it should be. Next thing is that there is no need for wooden guides to be removed after the first thing that should be done is dry pack guides smoothed out and a bit moist even to get a sheen on it.
Compression is me walking on it and tamping it down, The wooden guides are because DIY people find It difficult to screed off sand and cement guides. 6 years now and It is still there.
@@Bernieclark45 I didnt seeyou walk on it mustve skipped that part of the video
Thanks for this video. Two things perplex me though:
1) Why the chicken wire (if for reinforcing it seems very weak and open to corrosion. Would not steel mesh have been better?).
2) Ready mix screed has fibre in it (which considerably increases its strength. Why did you not add fibre to your mix?
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Hi Simon. All good points thank you. Steel mesh expands and
contracts with the heat from the pipes and promotes cracking. Better is a flexible fibre mesh. At the time of making the video I was not aware of this mesh. Ready mix is expensive and this was a DIY family project. I welcome your valued comments as it gives viewers the chance to make up their minds on how best to do their job.
Thanks you kindly.
Bern Clark I wonder why all that gobbledygook is in your post!
I am intending to lay 75mm screed over concrete for an extension of internal diameter 7.15m x 3.97m (celotex insulation is laid below the concrete in this case). For this I need around 2m3 of screed.
I will be doing a 4:1 mix and have calculated I need 904 kg cement and 2701 kg sharp sand.
From my local builder merchant (at which I get reasonable discounts) 36 x 25kg bags of cement
and 3 bulk bags of sharps sand will cost: £265.50 +VAT. However delivery of 2m3 of screed will cost £290+VAT.
As the readymix screed comes with fibre mixed in and should be more uniformly mixed (and better mixed) than I'd be able to get it by hand mixing it seems best to me to get the readymix. But I am surprised that the difference is price is so little.
The fibre should stop it cracking but as the area includes a number of large reveals, the (stupid) ufh heating egg trays and ufh pipes will mean that the screed is quite thin in places, so I'm tempted to use a flexible mesh too. I'll see if i can track some down.
Again. Thanks.
Is there any water mixed in with the mix
I like the way you have done this I'm going to do my own screed but I'm not sure about the 6 to 1 mix as online it says use 4 to 1 or even 3 to 1 and use fibres and sharp sand ? and the confusing thing is the ready mix I'm sure is sand not sharp sand lol but thanks for the vid I'm sure I'll work this out eventually lol
Come with me for a day and I'll show you how it's done. Should work of a datum line... (laser level) no need for those batten rails. You could play snooker on it after. Fair play to you giving it a go and posting this video helping the weekend DIYs bashers feel like real men.
Interesting last comment. Do you have an inferiority complex?
The ability to screed a floor does not make you a man, i'll go to work, earn more than you do and then pay you to do my house ha ha ha- that's an intelligent man.
Hi, can i ask you if i need to put the concrete in one time or i can do it in different part in different days? p.s. sorry for my english
The floor I laid is over laid with wood so joints and not a good finish is not important. If you require a good finish then by all means do it a bit at a time but you will need to be sure you make a good joint.
Were is your Edge strip is used with solid (concrete screed) floors around the edge of a room to provide an expansion gap for the floor as it heats up and cools down. 150 mm wide x 8 mm thick and Once the entire pipe has been installed the system should then be pressure tested with water. This will ensure that there are no leaks in the manifold, joints or pipes. The screed should be laid immediately after and pressure should be left on while this is being laid. A standard sand and cement screed should be laid in accordance with CP8204. It should be well mixed, well compacted, 75mm thick, and cured not dried and yes I agree with Lebanon1904 you were laying it wrong you are making it hard for your self you know now for next time if you do it all the best pal
The under solid concrete has expansion edging. The heating pipes do not have any joints that get covered. All was pressure tested for some days before laying commended.
Thank you voodoo.
youve made floor screeding look so hard mate ?? do you know what you are doing !!!
ive never seen anyone screed like that before,
It is still there and still good.
fair play bern thats put me in my place, i retract my comments
If you used 4 to 1 no need for chicken wire and sets firmer
Certifiable and a good laf
Learn to write correctly you cretin
Lovely Jubbly
good job
I just saw his wife carrying the burrow , enough said
Are you for real mate? Think you're in the wrong decade / century.
Bernie you are a tough guy but not wearing knee pads ?
They are under my overalls.
can you tell me the dosages for the concrete (on parts) ...
Thank you
Is this legit? Tragedy
Lol all it needs is a sand castle to finish with
7 years on still there.
That’s Double Work He’s Doing
there you are job done.jesus what a joke.love the way you throw your hammer down every time on the pipes.no leaks i hope.
I did put my hammer down on the strong plastic pipes and three years on it is still working.
Hey mate, this isnt the right way to screed floors at all
I have been doing tiling for almost 30 years, but never seen any thing like that before
The way u are doing it is wrong, sorry, i don't mean to be rude but you made it look hard, always do the borders level, use either laser level or water level if u want perfect level, then start screeding with a long straight edge, the longer the better.
Yes Brada you are correct , he is amateur
+lebanon1904 As I said at the start, The existing floor was not level or flat and amatures do not have access to water levels and lasers.
Are you saying put the edges in first level then infill and use a long straight edge to screed back off the edges? Cheers
That’s Double Work He’s Doing
ps you dont need to whack the screed with your float lol !!! def a bodger !!
Is that your misses helping you wheeling the barrow, lol.....I used to work for a dude like you...ran out of business...lmfao
It was a family DIY project as I said in the video. I only had one day in 50 years with out work.
I have only been in business for 50 years and any one day without work. I did say it was a family DIY project.
This guy is a barn animal
You need to learn how to do it right posting rubbish like this, who floats up using a upside down plastering hawk you need a dry screed all around edge to get levels right work you way out, floor screed has always been 3/1 in england and always will be, hope no one copy's this way off working
well i think i seen enough, the prat wont even b able to walk 2 morra
And you still wont be able to string a sentence together you uneducated fuckwit. Get back to your wheel barrow.
@@gbwildlifeuk8269 Your remark is exactly what I thought. You worded it perfectly. What horrible stupid people exist in this world!!!
Sorry Bernie but I have to alert your followers that you are making a shambles of that, 1:6 (cement to grit) is not right, 1:3 for heavy duty floors, 1:4 for domestic floors. 1:6 screed over underfloor heating is not fit for purpose. Also use a 3m long straight edge between screed bars as this helps avoid uneven floor finish (though is not fool proof) :).
Hi Steve. Thank you for your comments it will help followers to decide.
Shamble not really a good description. Taking your points in order a 1: 6 mixed properly and compacted is adequate for a wood covered floor and it is retained all around. A 3 meter straight edge in this instant is to long. As I explained the exciting floor has a sag to the middle and both ends are not level to each other. Hence I put a level line around the perimeter so as to bring the extremes almost level therefor a short leveling tool is best and easier for DIY.
It is easy to have general rules for the perfect condition.
The floor has been down for 5 years now and is still good.
this men is not a master
not industrial level
No joke, Sherlock! It's a DIY home project.
Stick to your desk job mate, coz that is not the way to do it! No matter which way you look at it.
Desk job? I have been a worker in the building industry for 50 years. The floor is still there after 4 years.
It is still there.
Show us how its done fat mouth. Get YOUR video on. Ooooh hes gone!
Was looking around and came across this vid. Anyone out there thinking of doing a DIY floor screed don't everything in this video post is wrong this floor won't last top layer will come off and mix is too dry so you can bet your life there hollows in there which will crack in the end....and why would you need a hammer when your screeding a floor ?
I'm not trying to be nasty to you but you got it all wrong from the start pal
I've been plastering for 14+yrs and I've never done it this way
weii try old man.
Why bother doing a job if you don't know what you're doing and you can't even leave a good finish this is not the way to screed the floor wow what a Muppet(don't try this at home)
It is still there and still good.
but,i can see it is not flat,and your wooden screed guide moves when you are laying the floor.try us next time (pbfloorscreeding.com/)
mjoz jozwiak Your attitude is a great advertisement for your company. I'm sure everyone will be rushing to give you a call.
I've been screening floors for 15 years and I've never used timbers this guy is a muppet
It is still there.
Another amateur pretending and trying to save money! !!!
I see you missed the point.
And another rip off cowboy crying because he cant stiff him for his extortionate rates. Get back to wheel barrow and scamming pensioners.