Aluminum Casting - Lost PLA Process on Plaster Mold
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
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The video don't have any comment, but all the steps are here described:
-PLA 3D printed part
-Wax risers and gating
-50%wt Sand + 50%wt Plaster
-Oven 100ºC 2h to dry the plaster (not enough)
-Oven 240ºC 2h to remove residual water (not enough)
-Burn PLA (Direct flame damaged the mold...)
-Mold assembling
-Aluminum Casting and pouring
Casting Result:
The part has some defects due mold damaging and water vapor.
The mold was not completely fulfilled, the last part of the movie show that the mold was not completely dried.
Next Steps:
-Improve mold drying process
-Apply heat instead of direct flame to remove PLA.
When I began with Aluminium pouring I was not using much Protection. But after working in an aluminuium pouring Company I see how important It is to wear Protection: I saw men wich had really bad injuries: one can't feel his foot beacause the aluminium burned his nerves, the other man has carves all over his body because meltet aluminium was all over him and he wasn't wearing Protection.
PLEASE wear a face schild, some good schoes, welding Gloves and (If u want) a blacksmith clothing (I don't know the name, I mean the leather thingie)
No hate, just for your personal safety!
Have a nice day and keep It up man!!
Actually pretty good results with how this was done👍🏻
You could make the risers and vents all out of PLA. That would let you make a small vent from the end of each fin that manifolds into the main vent. that should help the fins form more fully. Also add a little funnel shape at the top to help the pour.
BennHerr Thanks for the advice!
I will try to do that next time!
Good effort! I have made some 3D printing videos and know first hand how much effort it took to make this part. It is a real steep learning curve at first. I think your plaster was not dry enough when you did the melt out of the plastic. Keep up the good work!
Make a cone block shape then a tube put the cone on the bottom tube and a vent support tube then your work they have wax filament too love watching this
should look at reverse wax molding?
Next time include the runners in the model before printing and hang the model before pouring the plaster to avoid making two parts mold.
Hello, thank you for the suggestion. that's exactly what I made in the last video:
ruclips.net/video/TYHwJguXLYY/видео.html
You shouldn't burn pla out with direct flame, it leaves too much residue, instead place it upside down in an oven at 400•F for a few hours and the plastic will flow out and it'll perhaps leave a very thin dark colored coating
+Darryl Alexis Thank you for the advice! I'm building an oven especially for that ;)
No problem, Would you post a video of the process? :)
+Darryl Alexis Sure I will! I believe in April I will have some free time to do that!
Good first attempt. I'd melt out the PLA slower over a fire to keep the plaster from cracking.
i have the exact same blow torch
Have you tried using heat resistant paint, clay or refractory for the mold instead of the plaster and sand mix ?
awesome! i could totally see a company being formed from doing casting sorta like this. seen lost foam casting, as seen in other comments. where you poor the melted material directly over the foam. so no melting the PLA ahead of time. but so far your the first i have seen tried to mold directly from 3D prints.
btw. im an cnc operator, so im very interested in finding a way to make "easy" but great way to mold directly from a 3D printed object and small amount of cnc/manual milling. for great displays or even in use for different applications. everything to art to cars, mc or different hobbies or even rockets. the mind is the limit.
great work!
im well aweare of the lost wax. but have you seen when people use lost foam metode? i mean, it would be so much more simple and fast just to 3D print. put on channels and dip it in compacted sand and poor metal in the cast. i know it's not the best metode, but if it works. and requre less work, and people can get their parts with in a few days. ill say i would have a pretty awesome buisness running fast.
+AntimatePcCustom One of the problems of lost foam process is that gases from the burning foam may get in to the metal, causing porosity. The PLA is much denser than the foam, so we will get more "entrapped" gases causing defects on the melting. Thanks for the comments.
and a 3D printer could print a hollow foam. that possible could help against porosity. but it's an idear that could be fun to try. :)
uise wooden dowel where you want yyour bolts to go?
Maybe not a year ago but now they have wax you can 3D print and melt it out for this application.
mix in 1/3 fine sand, and dount burn the wax out put it in a oven at 250-300 c up side down and let the wax run out , and keep it in the oven both half of the mold until you are ready to cast, if the mold is 300 c the metal only drop 360 c and you will get a better cast, whit thin fins on a cast you need more overflow canal´s the more the better
I don't know how well this idea would work but if you formed the object in styrofoam you could melt it out with gasoline or acetone
Kick ass! what type of investment powder/ casting powder did you use?
+J-Hitman I used 50%wt Sand + 50%wt Plaster of Paris!
+laranjas3 - Better finish ? -( 100% - I think No good as Plaster cannot take high heat - it cracks as shomn on the mold after the melt of the wax. )
Im not sure why you blow torch the PLA object before pouring in the aluminum?? the PLA burns out when you pour the aluminum in, so I'm not sure why you did that. why do you have 3 insert/exits when 2 makes more sense? that seems like a lot of waste and extra work grinding away. Look up some other people lost PLA teqs meng
Chad Meister Thanks for the comment.
All the other videos they used a oven with high temperatures(around 500ºC) before pour the aluminum. They do this step to melt and burn the PLA.
Since I don't have that kind of oven, I tried to remove the PLA by burning it directly...
About the 3 risers, there was no logical reason for that. ;)
laranjas3 you just have to put it in a standard oven and increase in increments of 100 deg F (unsure of conversion to Celcius) to both bake the plaster mold (remove water vapor) and the pla should start to flow out... hopefully at 450 deg F.
laranjas3 in fact, putting a propane torch directly to the plaster is not a good thing... too much heat.. will eat away at the plaster.
Thank you +ryan cler, I was not sure that PLA flow such at low temperature.
I'm constructing a oven that will be able to reach 932F (500ºC).
Next time the will be no torch!!! ;)
+laranjas3 PLA is printet at a temperature around 200 degree celcius.
You are crazy man
What is that material that you used to form the plaster "enclosure"? Also, is the base acrylic or glass?
I used glass at bottom and plastic from a used cooling water bottle cutted.
laranjas3 thanks
Good technique, but I would have used silicone to cast a mold of the plastic part... then made it out of wax, and then just used traditional lost wax method. I worry about the fumes coming out of the PLA and the amount of heat you're having to apply.
PLA is non toxic when incinerated. It's a corn-based plastic.
i can't seem to find the correct sand for this...
Hand Squeezed Lemons check the lastest videos! This is normal sand with less than 0.5mm diameter.
The idea was to cast directly from 3d print!
not gonna happen unless you can print styrofoam
not gonna happen? The dude just did it in the video above. Derp.
nah, " directly cast from 3d print" doesnt involve encasing in plaster and burning out the pla. That is two more pain in the bull steps. printed foam parts could be covered in sand and directly cast.
Le résultat est un peu mauvais, mais avec un décirage au chalumeau çà ne m'étonne pas. le plâtre à été massacré. Le plâtre de Paris ne résiste pas à la forte chaleur.
L'arrivée de métal n'est pas bien placée.
Pareil pour la fixation des jets de coulée,en utilisant un fer à souder électrique c'est quand même plus facile et précis.
Un peu plus de rigueur et de précision dans la façon de faire et le résultat sera beaucoup mieux.
Bon courage
Fail
All hate comments in a nutshell xD
Why not just design the risers and vents into the part to begin with instead of welding on all that junk?
+magicstix0r Because printing takes a lot of time...
Nice shot of you shoes. How about rotating the cell phone to landscape next time?
I will try to improve that! Check the new video:
ruclips.net/video/TYHwJguXLYY/видео.html
Much better. I thought an oven cook-out would be much easier on the plaster than a 2000°F propane flame. That worked slick - nice job.
David Lee thanks ;)
Suprised it came out as well as it did lol
the music is a new form of cancer
quality isn't that impressive
Maybe your eyes are bad?
check out Mr Pete 222 on YT he has great vids on casting.
change your job man!!!
What's your?
Other than telling people to switch their carriers.
Read more
#filabot
Too long,difficult,expesive and untidy way to cast my friend should have just used bentonite clay and sand!mucj easies and cheaper and you can use it over and over again and your casting comes out perfect
Arnold Swarts thanks for watching. With this process you are able to produce parts without draft, this allow you to make parts that you are not able to make with sand casting. Sure it will take more time, but you only should use it when necessary. Thanks
poor quality from inexperience