The KME Knife Sharpening System: The Full Nick Shabazz Review
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- Today, we'll discuss a piece of gear I've been using (and loving) for months now, the KME "Precision Knife Sharpening System". It's a guided system which can help you re-profile, sharpen, and even mirror-edge a variety of knives in damned near any modern steel. It's pricy, it's a bit complicated, it struggles with huge or weirdly shaped knives, and the price could buy years of professional sharpenings, but I've fallen in love, and find the KME to be a solid freakin' gem.
Here's a nice example of it in use: • Ozark Trail Knife Shar...
"I don't want to say idiot-proof because the world has a way of making great idiots." Classic Nick.
“Wicked over priced” well played sir
@Patrick Petrie I think you missed the joke.
My 99 cents with the KME:
The good:
- Even though I've reprofiled my Zero Tolerance 0180 just with the basic XC Diamond hone (140 grit) twice, and plenty other knives several times, it's still in great condition. These diamond hones are seriously tough.
- The play of the ball joint is pretty much negligible, compared to Lansky, DMT, Gatco ... hell, even the first generation wicked edge (before they introduced the rods on ball joints, which you can have for $99, to upgrade your older kit), they had these pivots with some serious play, which could make more than one degree of angle variation, depending on where you apply presssure on the hone.
- basically what has been said already in the video.
The not great, but workable:
- the angle changes depending on blade height: Yes, it does. So? It's going to affect the actual angle by roughly one degree, plus or minus. Do you need your knife to be exactly 40° inclusive, or you'll commit seppuku with it, if it turns out to be 38° or 42°? I don't think so. If that's too much for you, there's this tool called protractor, you can get an inexpensive plastic one for zero dollars and very few cents; you put it against the back of the jig, and find the angle of the rod against the jig.
- having to clamp the knife in the exact same spot the next time you resharpen: You do have a phone with a camera, right? If you don't have that for whatever reason, a ruler, notepad and a pen will do just fine.
- the bevel height changes at the tip: yes, usually the bevel gets higher despite the angle getting less acute (in case of upward curve of the blade near the tip); this depends mostly on the knife grind geometry, rather than the sharpening system geometry. You can't do much about that, which is one really serious first world problem, but it's not such a big deal that you couldn't live with it. Unless you have like a $1000+ masterpiece of a knife, in which case you won't bother with this system anyway.
- if you switch sides often (I'll be explaining why you want to do that later), the nut that tightens the spring unscrews a little with every counterclockwise turn (if you can, turn the jig only clockwise)
- guide rod falling out of the joint - I will explain later how to prevent that
The bad:
- with blade lengths of 20 cm and more (that's 8" for you American folks there), you'll have trouble covering the whole blade length with one stroke of the stone against the edge (why you want to do that, I'll get on that later as well)
- the pistol grip is only for two fingers and not especially comfortable to hold
The ugly:
- the base. Seriously? 25 USD for a block of wood with metal stick screwed in the middle (oh and four pads on the underside, Im sorry)! People actually buy that? For that money, that wooden base better be made of fucking mahogany! And the rod be at least made of some quality stainless steel, like 316L. Or mithril. However, I suspect it's more like a piece of standard hardwood and a rod of mild steel. Got some basic tools and hardware in your workshop? You can make one for about $1 worth of material. Also, In my opinion, contrary what the KME website and Nick say, it is NOT a must have accessory (I'll get to that, don't worry)
- if you live anywhere in the world that isn't USA (and perhaps Canada), you'll might be able to buy the basic KF-D4 system without much of a problem, but the price of the accessories, especially hones, is absurd. If they sell them at all. I'm in Czech republic, and none from local dealers who sell the KME system carry the XXC or The Beast diamond hones. Nearest store that sells at least the 100 grit XXC hone (they don't sell The Beast, unfortunately) for 30 €, which equals $37, is in Germany. Other countries...
Australia: 65 AUD for one spare diamond hone. That's 50 US dollars. Another 60 AUD (= 46 US dollars) for the kangaroo leather strop. Fucking four inches of kangaroo leather on a block of aluminium! In land down under, of all places, where these leather strops basically jump in your face if you drive 5 minutes past any city limit! You'd have to be insane to pay for that!
UK: 30 Quid (= 43 dollars) for a diamond hone. Also, if you're not in USA, and you need to replace any nut on the system, you're screwed, as none of the threads are metric, since in USA I can only guess they see the metric system as some kind of a nazi satanist atheist fascist communist pinko plot, devised to undermine and destroy the traditional christian conservative family value God given rigtheous imperial unit system.
Ok, now on why you want to flip the knife over more than once with every grit, why you want to do the entire blade length in one stroke against the edge if possible, how to prevent the stone carrier and guide rod assembly to fall out of the ball joint when you want it to stay, and why you don't need the base:
The first two things are kind of related. When sharpening, you do need to find the burr, but you shouldn't overdo it. As long as you create the burr along the entire edge length, the smaller the burr is, the better. That's why you should do ONLY strokes into the edge, unless you're doing hard reprofiling of the bevel, in which case yes, it's more efficient to scrub back and forth with the hone. But if you're just doing normal sharpening or touch up, please for fucks sake. DONT SCRUB. Single, fluid strokes, into the blade, not away from it. If the blade is too long to cover with a single stroke, divide the length of the edge into two or three partial strokes. Flip the knife every after a five complete strokes. That way, the burr will go away almost completely while still honing with the Extra Coarse or Coarse hone. YOU DON'T NEED TO FIND THE BURR WITH EVERY LEVEL OF GRIT! In fact, after you find it on both sides with the most coarse stone you work with, that's when you know you're at the correct angle and that you've reached the apex. And that's when you start wanting the burr to fuck off, because if it stays there, even after you're finished with the finest grit, the knife won't stay sharp for long. The more tough and ductile the steel is, the harder it is to get rid of the burr.
Now about the rod (not) falling out and the not really necessary base.
1) Clamp the knife tight.
2) Hold the jig with your non-dominant hand in such manner, that the central screw is vertical.
3) Hold the stone carrier and rod assembly in your dominant hand. Set the rod in the ball joint.
4) Sit back in your armchair by the fireplace. Relax. Now, sharpen the blade from both sides, with single strokes if possible, downward strokes (into the edge). Alternate sides frequently. To flip the knife, hold the jig with your dominant hand by the metal part with the angle scale, and keep the stone carrier out of the way with your fingers. Flip the knife with your non-dominant hand.
5) Repeat until you need to go up a grit level.
- Technically, you don't have to set the jig aside or remove the rod and carrier assembly from it to replace the stone, if you're skillful enough, but just for safety reasons, let's not try that and do set the jig aside. Does that warrant buying a $25 base that you put the jig on for 30 second each time you replace a stone? If so, go for it. Otherwise, what you do is, rotate the jaws 90° from the detent position, and set the jig flat on your table. You just saved $25, which will buy you a small, 375 ml (that's 12,7 fluid ounces) bottle of Hennessy, which I believe is a much better investment.
- Diamond lapping films. Another big WTF. $25 bucks for a piece of glass and five strips of film? $15 for another five strips, which you throw away after single use?
Go to a hardware store. Buy some 2000 grit and 4000 grit (also a 6000, if you want to be anal about the mirror polish, but in my experience, 2000 grit already makes a nice shiny finish) sheets of sandpaper, 4 bucks a piece. Diamond if possible, but corundum will do. If hardware store doesn't have it, buy it online. Cut it into strips. One sheet is enough for at least 20 strips, if not more, which don't have to be disposed of after one use - they're fine for another one or two. Secure the strip in the carrier, using one of the hones. You just saved about 600 dollars worth of lapping films. Buy a bottle of Glenmorangie 25 Year Old instead. Money much better spent.
Nice in depth, instructional comment! Thanks for taking the time.
Awesome man. Thanks for the info and the entertaining delivery.
You did a great job explaining everything, hopefully people will take the time read your comment.
Thank you
Great advice Thanks
Thanks, best comment ever
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm ruclips.net/user/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
Well done Nick. I agree the base should be included lol! All things considered, design simplicity, ease of use and accessory quality, this setup is super underrated. Customer service is also an aspect and what initially sold me.
I have used the KME system for over a year and love it for all the reasons you gave. A useful suggestion to get to the mirror finished edge in a more cost effective way is to substitute wet-dry sandpaper after using the 1500 grit diamond stone. The readily available grits at the big box stores are 800, 1500 and 2000. Just cut an oversized rectangular piece and place on any of your stones, tape the reverse to hold in place and clamp in the stone holder. No angle adjustment is needed and progress through the grits as usual. The scratch marks will disappear and it will give a nice result. Finer grit wet-dry sandpaper is hard to find but is available on Amazon up to 8000 grit in small, affordable quantities from Germany. The result is awesome and you can finish up with a leather strop/CBN emulsion to your taste. No wetting is needed, it is quick, cost effective and you can sharpen many knives. What is not to love? Congratulations on the Kevin Cleary review..Love what you do.
Nice idea. Just found a set of wet & dry on eBay 2000 to 7000 at a very good price so worth trying.
wrongway2001 did you try the sandpaper? What did you think?
I am such Muppet, should have thought of that as I use a real heavy DMT to reprofile and it is maybe a bit long and a wee bit thick but it just means I got to check angles after stones, which I do anyway. Sometimes you cannot see the woods for the trees, Sir. Thanks for the brain jog.
Well, after about a month of research I have decided to go for it and get the KME deluxe kit. Same thing you have here. I found it for $300. Your video review, wisdom and experience in the knife world sold it for me. I appreciate you man. Keep doing your thing.
Nick, "I don't want to say "idiot proof" cuz the world has a way of making great idiots..."
Thats classic, and should be copyrighted...
That's because they started adding warning labels to everything
Got that right .
A while back KME sold a chosera stone kit for their sysyem. I bought the kit and absolutely love it. The stone set goes up to 10k and leaves a mirror finish without stopping
"Base Kit" doesn't include the base. Lol, wut?
You should get KME to put the "Shabazz Kit" as one of their options. I'd rather spend $300 on your build rather than their "deluxe kit".
Pioms
@Jacob Dawson then why are you here?
Yes, it’s expensive but I love my knives and I have been looking for a good sharpening system for a while now, and just based on this video alone, I heard everything I needed to hear to make the purchase. Thanks Nick! Your videos are always entertaining and informative and I always look forward to them!
This system is out of my price range but this was a great video. I had fun just watching. As Nick would say "This video was a beautiful thing."
Welcome to the KME family.
NOOOOOO! You can't sharpen the Z Hunter! You'll destroy the resale value!
haha, great video, keep up the amazing work.
I was hoping he was going to use the Beast stone to turn the Z Hunter into a full plain edge!
This video was the one that sold me on the kme system, and I have no regrets about it. If you aren't patient to learn, or too intimidated to jump into hand sharpening on stones, this is a great alternative.
Would you recommend having the lapping films or just the main kit?
Will you be doing a video of actually using this system Nick, perhaps with 'before' and 'after' results?
Man, you've been cranking out videos lately. Thanks for all the hardwork. I really enjoy watching your vids.
Hello Nick, very well done, KME is also my favorite from all my sharpeners, a few things bothered me though & I came up with solutions:
1- the thread pitch is kind of coarse so to better apply force on the jaws I use Nano-Oil 85 weight, 85w for low migration, while you are at it apply it also on the stone holder screw.
2-- the play between the base & the handle made me crazy so I reduced it to close tolerance with no play by making a paper tube & inserted on the aluminium post of the base, making sure that I over lapped the top part for easy entry, I have to say that it is now a Rolls Royce,
3- while you have your Nano-Oil tubes out, you could try to use the 10 or 5 weight on your stone, I say no more, just try it privately and let me know what you think,
If you ever drill in Stainless Aircraft aluminium or Titanium , use just a drop on the tip on the drill bit, it will cut much easier & make a very nice burr less hole, while you at it try tapping threads with the 10 weight, FYI while performing those metal cutting, the temperature is much reduces, preserving the integrity of your cutting tools.
Take care, love you videos, Shot Show 2017 was awesome, Tanto from Benghazi 13 hours movie was right next to us signing books + photo opps, what a great Gentleman,
Christian StClaire can you post images of your KME mods?
Nick don't u use the kme strop?
I was watching birdshot . When he flipped the knife he got my full attention .
I'm getting one !!! And the beast is another got to have !
I got mine like 2 months ago and I absolutely love it! I have the beast and a kangaroo strop with 4 micron emulsion obviously with the other stones and the system and I have gotten insane results from those alone.
I know this is an old video but just wanted to say thank you for your review as it was one of the reviews that helped me decide to get this sharpening system and so far it is really good. I have the diamond 140 through 1500 set and added the 9 and 6 micron lapping films and the 4 micron strop and it's giving me great looking edges. I am glad I didn't spend the extra on wicked edge which was the other system i was seriously considering. Both are good but I'm really happy with KME so far. Thanks Nick,
Nick said "That's a beautiful thing" quite a bit of times that means this item has gotta be legit. Def buying one of these
I have pretty much the same set - up Nick has here and I'm very pleased. Didn't think my blades could get any sharper than with the Spyderco Sharpmaker but I was way wrong.
The Sharpmaker is very good but this KME system with all the bells and whistles take sharp to another level.
Most everyone these days have a smart phone. Download a free app that tells you the angles and you don't have to buy one. Sharpies are good for finding the factory bevel but I just reprofile most of my blades to 20 degrees or whatever degree I want. So when I set it up the next time, I don't need to guess what degree I'm looking for. Mount the knife, open the app, find 20 degrees and I'm good to go.
Do medford paper weights even need sharpened? I mean prying tools.
Someone finally just made a lansky that doesn't suck. Took long enough.
Great review Nick,I'll put it on my wish list. Glad I learned to free hand sharpening when I was a kid. It's something I wish young people today would learn to do it's very satisfying and you can put a good edge on a knife when camping or hunting.
picked up my KME after watching a ton of birdshot iV's and knifekrazy's content. Love it. Great to see your thoughts on it also. it really is a gem of a system. Totally an upgrade for me coming from my Sharpmaker.
That "ball thing" is called a "hiem joint".
Finally Nick lol it was like Xmas morning when I saw the notification kme review when I woke up this morning. So glad you did it thanks.
I heard if you sharpen a Medford, you void the warranty. : )
gone rydin haha
gone rydin
Pretty sure the Medford warranty is voided if you actually open the knife. Most certainly if you cut something with one!
gone rydin if you attempt to sharpen a Medford it cuts the the stone like paper.
the medford actually sharpens the stone!
gone rydin I heard if you do literally anything aside from pick up to anything, the warranty is voided
Being able to use your same hand for both sides of the blade is what sold me, great review by the way.
Try putting a piece of cork or wrap a rubber band on the end of the steel rod to keep it from falling out of the rod-guide
I use a tiny ribber band.
Quick tip...take a photo with your phone of the clamped position of every knife and store them in a separate albums. This way you can reference for future touch ups and/or sharpenings.
Wow, this looks like the easiest sharpener than the Sharpmaker even and thats the only one I have atm and its just ok. I think im sold on this.
Nick, you can use a "drill bit stop" or a thick cross section o-ring to keep the guide rod from coming out of the plastic heim joint. Also, you can find an angle finder/level app for your phone which will help a layman make sure it's clamped correctly and the angle is correct
I love my KME! RUclipsr Dean O has great vids on tricks and tips for the system. Ken the company owner is also a great resource and a real nice guy to talk to.
Great review Nick.. I'm going to upgrade from my Lansky to this. Thanks so much for reviewing this system..tc
It looks like a good system and somewhat better than a concrete sidewalk. I can absolutely see me cutting myself with those movements. Usually, I use my Work Sharp Ken Onion with the Blade Grinder attachment. Usually, I only use a leather strop belt. The Sharpie is key to finding that correct angle. I also have the Tool Grinder attachment, which is great for lawn mower blades. The Work Sharp Blade Grinder is also good for getting a 90% spine on a camping knife to be used with a fire stick. Anyway, there is something compelling about the KME system features and, if it were not for the price, I would consider it.
Hey Nick new subscriber here. Loved your video. Very informative and interesting. Do not change your delivery style. I love accents and local dialects. Round here when we get going we start to sound a bit like the movie 'Fargo'. Yours kinda sounds like Windy City Jewish.
Keep up the good work.
Man, I love these reviews! Especially the personality! You're making me miss home (NY).
I bought a $30 Ruike steel framelock on Amazon to be my sacrificial lamb when I first got the KME and I actually turned out getting a super sweet edge on it, plus the knife is actually incredible for the price. I didn’t really know it when it bought it but I think a ton of people love that knife so it all worked out nicely. I still use that knife all of the time when I don’t want to booger up one of my more expensive knives.
"I used to hate sharpening M4. but after using the KME, I now thoroughly enjoy it!". -the Nick
Hey Nick I’ve been watching your videos for over a year now. I have to say you are the most thorough person I’ve seen in a long time. So if there is anything I need info on is it ok if I ask the great and wonderful Mr. Shabazz my question. If I have a choice between two favorites you are the simple choice because I know you are a no bullshit person. Thanks for reading this Mike Murphy you are the man!!!! !!!!!!!!
Good review. I like the Edge Pro and get great results with it. But, I have the same struggles with it you do. One other issue with the EP that this won't have is having to tape up blades to prevent scratching. Not a huge deal, but one other thing that takes effort and makes it a little bit of a pain to use the EP.
Nick good video review of a great system. At about 8:28 in the video you very quickly showed how to use this system. Perhaps in the future you might cover how the system works with ZDP 189 and 110cv steel blades.
it works the exact same, just might take longer. that why the beast is an AWESOME add-on, just work it a bit.
Great point about the blade clamp position Affecting the actual Anglesey are sharpening at.
thanks! i've had the diamond lansky system for decades and it seemed pretty good except for the width of the sharpeners and the somewhat awkward gymnastics (never had the stand). the stones last a long time and overall, its simplicity and small storage footprint are winners. that said, this kme seems like a worthy upgrade, and i am considering it. as i learned from the lansky, my preference is for minimal stock removal and appearance change, so basic kme would be my choice....
Giving some serious thought on this.That Nick means it's a good review.Took me awhile to warm up to your channel thank you bird and Frankie for sending me.
This looks like a very good system. I'm fortunate enough to have a very good friend who does professional knife sharpening so I don't really need my own system but if I ever do, this looks like a great option.
Hi Nick nice review! I've been looking at buying this system for awhile now, might have to pull the trigger on it now. Thanks for making all the awesome reviews and disassembly videos! Your disassembly videos helped me take apart my 950 rift and Endura with no problems.
if you haven't bought it already, buy it. I got it 2 days ago and boy, just with the 1500 grit I have gotten the sharpest knives if handled. hands. down.
Thanks for the review nick! It was super helpful and made me do some more research and got this gem myself! I’m hoping I’ll be pleased with it when I actually get it for Christmas. Great vid as always!
Bought a KME last year and enjoy it. Have fun with it and keep up the good videos my friend.
With regards to price, if you collect and get just a single "expensive" knife a year, that is $300 around, which isn't expensive for what knives can go for, you can still get sharp knives at your own wim. It's really hard to talk about price of sharpening systems, as it's what makes your tool continuing being a tool. You can send it out for sharpening, you can quite a few times, but this also means you'll be working around the dull parts for a while. You'll be compensating by using another yet less than stellar sharp knife.
Nick, I follow knife news, and enjoy your reviews. Most of my knives aren't pocket jewelry, so a system like this is not something I'd want to invest 400 bucks in. Freehand sharpening/honing with diamonds and ceramics to hair shaving sharp is about all I need on a pocketknife or large woods knife, and I can do that without skrewing up a knife, so the closest I will get is a Spyderco TSM, maybe the WSKTSKOE if someone brings me a badly abused working knife. But if I were gonna get a clamped system this is it! Great review.
Great review. Between watching your video and Birdshot, I'm sold on the KME..I don't think it expensive at all. Look what we pay for friggin knives. I just spent almost $200 on a BM 940. That foolish Medford knife must have cost $600 or so..
I love the fact that the clamp can flip over without removing the knife..It looks like there is no perfect system still..However, the KME really looks good..I'll probably get an angle cube and use a sharpie..
Nick, I sure hope you had sufficient containment procedures in place to bring out that Z Hunter :P
If you would like the rod to stay in the hole you can put a small o ring on it after set up that will help it from just falling out. The big part of the KME lapping film cost is the diamonds. The diamond film itself is exceedingly expensive, several times the cost of other abrasive films.
On the downside of clamps, here is where I have to give props to the Russian TechStudio Profile system. You can adjust the clamps to fit almost any grind. You use a screw farther back to spread the jaws and the ones at the front to clamp them shut which can make the clamp shape flat or triangular where other clamp systems are always flat. You can even use the double clamps to match different grinds along different portions of the blade. Back before the price increases it was a serious competitor against the other systems but my $344 kit now costs $417 which is quite high IMO.
"Wicked Overpriced" lol. Always enjoy the subtle humor
I have tried and tried to love my edge pro, I have a big set of shapton ceramic stones, polishing films, strop plates etc, i have used it for a bit more then 5 years. I have done the mods and I just can’t seem to make it less of a chore. Always having to remember to tape up any blades you don’t want to scratch to hell, not using it on the wife’s countertops because of the swarf mess it makes etc. I’m going to give this one a shot.
P.S. not shitting on the edge pro, it’s my absolute “go to” for bigger knifes, kitchen knifes and knifes with a weird edge shape. But for average edc sized knife, I generally grab the sharp maker.
Ok, Bugs Bunny.
I love my KME and it's the most solid system ever.
Would love to see a review of the Russian TSPROF sharpener which seems much more robust and precise for about the same price...
Complete speculation, if not fabrication: The owner's manual says something like, "For these angles line the blade up with the near slot on the clamp. For these other angles use the other slot in the clamp." Nothing like that? I mean, the horizontal slots in the clamp sure do look like they're there for a reason.
I love my KME, it's a great system. I didn't buy the base, I just mount it in my vise. I only have the diamond stones and the coarsest strop compound. Add an angle cube and some aftermarket knobs, it really enhances the system.
Great video!! Mine is showing up today. Can’t wait to get started👍
Thanks, Nick. The Lansky was the 1st system I could ever use at all.
I got great results but it took a while. I just did it while watching tv. Sometimes the aluminum rods would bend and throw the angle off. Switched to a Sharpmaker for 90% of what I need ti do now.
This KME rig looks sweet!!!
My wallet is sweating! 😂
Thanks, Nick
Thanks Nick, I didn't know the exact site address. Now, to decide if I really need to spend the money. I don't sharpen all that much but I do like great results. Very good video with enough info to make an informed decision .
Nice review, nice system. Unfortunately even more expensive in Europe. Thanks for sharing :)
Great review, I subscribed. This is the first of your videos I've seen and looking forward to more!
Take a drink every time he says “that’s a beautiful thing“.
i love these guided, high-end guided sharpening systems, but, for me, there will always be something about doing it by hand on traditional Japanese water stones
I just got the KME system as well and really like it. I purchased three sets of lapping films and they do work great like you said. They are also somewhat expensive like you said. I'm going to attempt to make my own sort of thing with a 3/16 inch thick piece of balsa wood and some of lapping compound with a 0.5 micron feature size, in this case from Diamond Lapidary.
what did did you get? the grit size?
I got the set the includes the diamond stones and the base. The diamond stones are agressive and seem to last long. I've added some lapping films. I've done steels such as S90V and M4 and I think you'll be fine with 6, 1, and .1 micron.
I caught the WE jab... nicely done.
I have a WE system and I'm a bit disappointed in it. In fact, I bought a Lansky and it does a better job on a larger range of shapes and sizes. (For a whole lot less money.)
I've always free hand sharpened my kitchen cutlery and these days I'm venturing into free hand on edges like my Emerson Commander and Karambit.
If I were to go with a system again, it'd be the KME... or hang with the Lansky and a Spyderco. I like the rods for intricate work, or at least the idea of the rods over flats for curved blades.
Mine will be here this week!
Great review!
You have a great show.... always making life fun!
Walt - Chicago
nice Medford jab! great video. you should do more sharpening systems, good or bad.
Not sure if it’s the same as the gatoco but the rod is retractable on that so you don’t fall out the clamp
I've been using the KME for many years....since it first came out. I love it. It is the most cost effective, high end
sharpener I know of. Beyond the diamond stones, I have the kangaroo strops and four emulsions down to .1 micron. I also use an angle cube to verify the precise angle. I hope you all know about using magic marker on the edge to see precisely where the sharpening stone or diamond angle is hitting. I agree that KME should throw in the stand as part of the system but it's their call.
Anyway, this is a great, clever, and unique system that meets the demands of certified anal retentives who want real precision sharpening.
Nice Review Nick.... I can always count on your demos... keep up the awesome work.. # awesome nick
One can make this with similar or better quality by visiting Home Supply or hardware stores.
Ball pivots, standard screws, bolts and a simple clamping setup... its not hard and WAY cheaper.
Can a 1/4" thick blade fit? Pretty much most of TOPS big knives.
Yessir 🙋🏼♂️ I sharpen all my TOPS with mine
When honing/ sharpening you have to push towards the edge, not drag with it like you were.
I don't sharpen very often, u usually use an old 3" razor strop with a green Polish grit like jewelers Rouge on the rough side, just strop out of boredom late at night out in my shed watching RUclips videos
I love your voice, very soothing to listen to, great video
Love the videos ❤️❤️ you talk like Kyle Broflovski's cousin 👀🔥🔥🔥
Awesome review as usual. The KME system offered a convex edge accessory, too.
Nick, I'm really feeling the ZT 0220 Jens Anso designed knife. I don't believe I've seen you mention it, and I really do love your reviews. If you are at all interested in the knife, maybe we can work something out, I'll buy, ship to you, do your review and FedEx to me maybe? I don't know how you normally go about these things. anyways if you want to chat about such things, maybe we can find a way to talk about it in a less public forum?
Great review. I bought this to reprofile a few blades including the DTK Honey Badger. Judging the thickness at .185 it looks like it just scrapes through as being do-able given your Esee Laser Strike is .188 and IS do-able. I hope it can handle the over 6 inch blade length. Cheers.
Birdshot shout out! Just watched his video and immediately purchased one. Will be using my work sharp for kitchen knives and other random crap, dont want to round my benchmade tips on the worksharp
if you use your thumb on the big 3 wing knob to turn the knife handle DOWN while holding the system in your hands you dont need to take the rod out every time! pretty handy. obv you cant do it when its on the base
The burr don't lie.
When I'm sharpening any knife I don't move past the grit I'm using until I feel a burr on each side of the blade, a continuous burr.
This is a foolproof way to get the sharpest blade.
Also each different steel is going to take a different amount of sharpening so the burr tells you when your at that point of sharpness.
No guess work.
hey Nick just wondering if you can tell me what angle you sharpened your pm2 at? Thanks
Great review. Good honest review. Thanks
I saw a similar machine on the internet one time, sharpening a ladys private parts. Although the stone was a little rounder
no link??!!
was probably the recurve stone that bird sent
Remind me to avoid that lady.
Another CB addict
Tie - See, I hope you are not speaking of first hand experience. I’m so sorry.
Nick, great review as always. Can you please review a wicked edge system?
Hey Nick, I got the full KME Precision kit and I love it! I use it for my folders and kitchen knives.
Oh yeah, and the base was included in the price. I ordered an Arkansas Translucent stone and a kangaroo strop. Crazy sharp, mirror edges. I don't use the ceramics, but they're there if I ever want to finesse edges even more. Need this system? Probably not. Dig it, a lot? Hell, yeah!
I had a KME and now an Edge Pro, and I agree with the comparisons you made in this video. I kind of want to try a Wicked Edge too now, though... lol
Ive tried several clamp sharpeners through the years and always went back to the lanskey. I wish the wicked had a clamp
sold.
Nick- nice insight into that sharpener.
There is one BIG reason I would never go with the KME.
The rod (stone holder) is NOT universal. That's it. That's the only thing that stopped me from getting it.
I went with the TSProf Blitz 360 (standard kit) instead.
Hey Nick, this was a great video.... I'm glad I found it as I was about to buy the Edge Pro Apex and this looks like a much better setup for my needs. Do you have any other input after going to Blade and meeting the inventor of the KME as far as strops/stones/technique?
I prefer the kangaroo leather strops and the cbn emulsion over the lapping tapes. Also very pricey but I feel like you get more uses for your money. For those of you that want to see this system in use check out Dean O. He's the one that convinced me buy one a year or so ago.
berlinetta350 thats why I made my own strops. Bought a chunk of kangaroo leather for $35 and was able to make a bunch of 1x6, 2x6 and 2x8 strops. Sold them at 15-30 bucks a piece and it mote than paid for itself. I do agree though, roo leather makes a great substrate for compounds.