I've had my KME system for about 9 years, now. I'm hoping to start using it again soon. These were some excellent tips, and very well presented. Appreciate, and subscribed. Thanks...
Excellent video, Thx ! A small steel plate (maybe 1x3") tightened in the clamp (in place of the knife) is a much more accurate place to zero your cube. This takes into account any sag, slop and dimensional error in the rest of the sharpener assembly 😉
Thanks for the tips Sean , I have a TSprof Kadet pro , I can apply these tips to my system , I fold tape around the back of the blade when I clamp , I do use your Tyrap trick it works great , Depending on the knife I also tape the handle so I don’t accidentally damage it
I have the KME System and previously had the Lansky sharpener. The the 2 issues or possible issues with both of these systems (maybe more I don't know) but the clamp and clamping the knife is a issue (potential) which is getting the blade equally from side to side in the clamp meaning at a perfect 90 degree angle in the clamp for both sides of blade, I usually just eyeball it as best I can but it's not precise and when that happens you'll get different bevels on each side. The clamp itself DOES NOT perfectly clamp the knife by itself at a perfect 90 degree angle The other issue is when mounting a knife that's been sharpened before in your sharpener how do you get it clamped into the same position exactly as before? As far as I can tell there is no way to accomplish that....Any ideas or experience doing it would be very helpful. Otherwise every time you sharpen your knife it'll be like sharpening it for the first time and potentially re-profiling it each time instead of just sharpening it. I know other sharpening systems clamp the blade as far as I know these issues I mentioned have not been conquered.
I don’t worry myself with clamping in the same exact spot or abide by a blade having to be clamped the way you described. That way would be ideal for certain blade profiles and grinds but it’s not going to work universally due to different grinds that have variations in the thickness behind the edge or if there’s no way to get a secure clamp in that location you have to find a way to adapt. Then once its clamped you just mark the edge with sharpie, make a test pass and you’ll be able to see if you need to make adjustments. I go over my process in several of my “KME tips” videos, Id recommend watching them because there’s a ton of stuff in those that will really help you learn to manipulate the system to do anything you want it to do!
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL...I do use a sharpie and make adjustments the actual sharpening is the easy part set-up is more laborious. One other thing I didn't mention what about blades that that have a full grind up to the spine of the blade, those are even more problematic to get securely clamped. It's not a perfect system but I still like the KME system. It's just a PITA to get the blade mounted evenly most of the time. Most of my knifes don't have a perfectly even edge on both sides seems one side usually has a deeper edge bevel and I've just learned to accept that's the way it is.
@@harryberry474Not sure if it's a good idea or a bad idea, but you could drill 2 holes through both the top and bottom clamps and drop a nail(s) or something similar into the holes to act as a depth stop. Basically similar in idea to what wicked edge does with their clamp. Pop in the nails. Push knife lightly against them. Clamp. Then remove the nails. Knife should be at the same depth in the clamp every time.
@@andygold That's a good Idea to position the knife for depth then you have to contend with where to position the knife front to back from tip. Any idea how to do that?
Thanks brother, I do not! Erick Stiteler makes and sells them. Hes a member in the KME user’s Facebook group as well as the MilliePm2P3Club group. You can just search for him in one of those groups and message him, he’ll take care of you!
Much love, glad you’re back! I gotta get back to making videos regularly, just not enough time in the day to do everything I have to do! Should have some good ones coming throughout this week though!
Eric Stiteler makes them, he’s in the KME Users Facebook group. You can search his name there and message him, he can make any color you want and he’s fast!
For someone on a "budget"😳, would you recommend the KME or a Wicked Edge GO? I have a 30+ year old Lansky and would like to upgrade to something "better" and with some diamond stones.
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIALThank you. I appreciate your quick response (and knowledge). Last question. They now sell the standard kit ($220), and a less expensive ($170) R.P.S.H. kit. I think the more expensive kit contains all diamond plates while the less expensive kit has a variety of standard and diamond stones. I'm not sure which way to go (although I was leaning towards the all-diamond kit). 99% of my sharpening will be folding knives(Benchmade, Buck, Spyderco) with 1% kitchen knives and the occasional Esee 3 or 4 sized blade. Thanks again!
I’m trying to do a Leatherman but the Kme will not go down low enough . I know you can turn the guide upside down but it hits the jaws either way round. The Leatherman blade is very narrow on the signal. Any ideas.
Have to clamp it in a way that the edge is further away from the clamp, thats the only way. Besides that you would just have to sharpen it at the lowest angle that the clamp will allow you to do!
@@rockinginafreeworld3256 pen knife clamp might help but I have it and honestly don’t use it. It wouldn’t clamp as solid because its less contact area. You would be better off clamping it at a angle or something with the regular clamp. Sometimes you have to play around with it until you figure out a way. Or just sharpen it at a higher angle. That’s honestly the most practical options with the best chance of success.
Thanks. I did wonder if the small clamp would work. I’ll pass on that. I did try at a higher angle and it worked. I was trying to keep it to the 16 degree that Leatherman use. Many thanks for the advice . Keep up the good work.
Yes ofcourse! The KME is extremely capable! With diamond plates or diamond stones you can sharpen any super steel. Magnacut only has a high rockwell hardness rating for a stainless steel. It’s still lower than alot of the high carbon tool steels. I actually usually find the harder steels more pleasant to sharpen because they debur alot easier!
If I'm only getting the burr on the rear of the bevel, not tword the tip. I'd want to find the angle that is higher say, 20.0 one side 19.8 other, I'd want to even out the 20.0 side first, evenly till burr? Then hit the 19.8 evenly till the burr forms? Only had this much of a uneven problem with a cts-xhp shaman, and accidentally turned it into a chopper! This is a hinderer, so lots of anxiety. And gonna stop and only hope to hear from you! More research is needed, this hinderer seemed fine, but not so much once I brought the angle down.
Hey brother, just now seeing this. Once I get to work and get situated I’ll do my best to answer your question and feel free to message me IG or Facebook and then you can get my number and talk on the phone if need be. It’s difficult to type everything out but id be more than happy to help you! 💯
Let's skip the BS. First off, yeah, after you position the knife you need either strong hands or pliers to tighten the clamp enough to the knife doesn't move. Next, unless you're anal retentive the actual angle as in use of an angle finder is absolutely USELESS. What matters is the angle of the blade RELATIVE to the angle of the stone. If you set to 18 degrees on the scale it doesn't matter if its exactly 18 degrees as long as it is the SAME. I've done hundreds of sharpenings and haven't changed my sharpener in a couple years. Generally I only use two angles anyway, one for thick blades and one for normal/thin blades. Next up, if you follow the video and position the knife in the clamp as shown the bevel with be a different height near the tip. Why? Because as the blade tapers the angle changes and gets steeper. Almost unnoticeable on thinner knives. If you want to avoid this use a marker and straight edge to draw a line from point to heel of the edge and put this parallel to the clamp jaws.A As to not marking up your blade, mask with painter's tape. No matter how careful I am, how often I blow or wipe the blade, I still end up with small scratches from displaced diamond. Its pretty easy to just tape a couple millimeters above the edge bevel alnd any slips, dust etc is no longer an issue. And for God's sake, use the black marker on the bevel to be sure you are just sharpening, not reprofiling to a slightly new bevel angle. Even if you've don the particular knife many times before, a couple millimeters deeper in the clamp jaws and the angle will be slightly different. A couple light passes with your finest stone will show you if you've matched the angle correctly by just removing the marker from the entire bevel, from heel to point. Last up, if you are spending 5 minutes or more on a side and its not a super hard steel (Rex45, S90v S110v etc), you're doing something wrong. Chances are you started with too fine a stone. Go back to a courser stone and work up and you'll save time in the long run. Starting at 300 is fine if you are touching up an edge, not if you are not exactly matching the existing bevel.
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I've done about 12-15 sharpenings on my KME and can confirm there are some great tips here, and I learned some things.
Where did you get the magnetic block to replace the wood? Also, where did you get the two red adjusting knobs?
Dropping serious knowledge!! Much respect for sharing
I've had my KME system for about 9 years, now.
I'm hoping to start using it again soon.
These were some excellent tips, and very well presented.
Appreciate, and subscribed. Thanks...
Excellent video, Thx ! A small steel plate (maybe 1x3") tightened in the clamp (in place of the knife) is a much more accurate place to zero your cube. This takes into account any sag, slop and dimensional error in the rest of the sharpener assembly 😉
Alot of great tips! Great video brother 👍
Well done! Thanks for the info
You’re welcome brother!!
Thanks for the tips Sean , I have a TSprof Kadet pro , I can apply these tips to my system , I fold tape around the back of the blade when I clamp , I do use your Tyrap trick it works great , Depending on the knife I also tape the handle so I don’t accidentally damage it
You’re welcome brother!!
Very helpful, thanks brother
I appreciate that ziptie tip, thanks!
Keep the videos coming man.
Great advice, but since I bought my TSPROF KO3 I don’t have to worry about the knife shifting position.
Great video, thank you
You’re welcome!!
Where do you get the replacement knobs for clamp and angle?
instagram.com/stiteler_3d_printing_stuff?igshid=MWI4MTIyMDE=
I have the KME System and previously had the Lansky sharpener. The the 2 issues or possible issues with both of these systems (maybe more I don't know) but the clamp and clamping the knife is a issue (potential) which is getting the blade equally from side to side in the clamp meaning at a perfect 90 degree angle in the clamp for both sides of blade, I usually just eyeball it as best I can but it's not precise and when that happens you'll get different bevels on each side. The clamp itself DOES NOT perfectly clamp the knife by itself at a perfect 90 degree angle
The other issue is when mounting a knife that's been sharpened before in your sharpener how do you get it clamped into the same position exactly as before? As far as I can tell there is no way to accomplish that....Any ideas or experience doing it would be very helpful. Otherwise every time you sharpen your knife it'll be like sharpening it for the first time and potentially re-profiling it each time instead of just sharpening it. I know other sharpening systems clamp the blade as far as I know these issues I mentioned have not been conquered.
I don’t worry myself with clamping in the same exact spot or abide by a blade having to be clamped the way you described. That way would be ideal for certain blade profiles and grinds but it’s not going to work universally due to different grinds that have variations in the thickness behind the edge or if there’s no way to get a secure clamp in that location you have to find a way to adapt. Then once its clamped you just mark the edge with sharpie, make a test pass and you’ll be able to see if you need to make adjustments. I go over my process in several of my “KME tips” videos, Id recommend watching them because there’s a ton of stuff in those that will really help you learn to manipulate the system to do anything you want it to do!
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIAL...I do use a sharpie and make adjustments the actual sharpening is the easy part set-up is more laborious. One other thing I didn't mention what about blades that that have a full grind up to the spine of the blade, those are even more problematic to get securely clamped. It's not a perfect system but I still like the KME system. It's just a PITA to get the blade mounted evenly most of the time. Most of my knifes don't have a perfectly even edge on both sides seems one side usually has a deeper edge bevel and I've just learned to accept that's the way it is.
@@harryberry474Not sure if it's a good idea or a bad idea, but you could drill 2 holes through both the top and bottom clamps and drop a nail(s) or something similar into the holes to act as a depth stop. Basically similar in idea to what wicked edge does with their clamp.
Pop in the nails. Push knife lightly against them. Clamp. Then remove the nails. Knife should be at the same depth in the clamp every time.
@@andygold That's a good Idea to position the knife for depth then you have to contend with where to position the knife front to back from tip. Any idea how to do that?
Love your custom upgrades. Do you sell them?
Thanks brother, I do not! Erick Stiteler makes and sells them. Hes a member in the KME user’s Facebook group as well as the MilliePm2P3Club group. You can just search for him in one of those groups and message him, he’ll take care of you!
Was wondering what happened to you bro. Just saw that subscribe button had gotten unclicked?? Gotta show love for a fellow KME knife bro.
Much love, glad you’re back! I gotta get back to making videos regularly, just not enough time in the day to do everything I have to do! Should have some good ones coming throughout this week though!
Where can I get the knobs like you have on that puppy brother ?
Eric Stiteler makes them, he’s in the KME Users Facebook group. You can search his name there and message him, he can make any color you want and he’s fast!
For someone on a "budget"😳, would you recommend the KME or a Wicked Edge GO?
I have a 30+ year old Lansky and would like to upgrade to something "better" and with some diamond stones.
KME hands down
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIALThank you. I appreciate your quick response (and knowledge). Last question. They now sell the standard kit ($220), and a less expensive ($170) R.P.S.H. kit. I think the more expensive kit contains all diamond plates while the less expensive kit has a variety of standard and diamond stones. I'm not sure which way to go (although I was leaning towards the all-diamond kit). 99% of my sharpening will be folding knives(Benchmade, Buck, Spyderco) with 1% kitchen knives and the occasional Esee 3 or 4 sized blade.
Thanks again!
@@andygold definitely want the diamond plates, get the standard
@@BLADESANDFADESOFFICIALThanks again!
I’m trying to do a Leatherman but the Kme will not go down low enough . I know you can turn the guide upside down but it hits the jaws either way round. The Leatherman blade is very narrow on the signal. Any ideas.
Have to clamp it in a way that the edge is further away from the clamp, thats the only way. Besides that you would just have to sharpen it at the lowest angle that the clamp will allow you to do!
Cheers, I will get the pen knife clamp in hope that helps. Thanks for the advice.
@@rockinginafreeworld3256 pen knife clamp might help but I have it and honestly don’t use it. It wouldn’t clamp as solid because its less contact area. You would be better off clamping it at a angle or something with the regular clamp. Sometimes you have to play around with it until you figure out a way. Or just sharpen it at a higher angle. That’s honestly the most practical options with the best chance of success.
@@rockinginafreeworld3256 I know it might not be what you wanted to hear but it’s the truth and Id rather save you time, money and disappointment!
Thanks. I did wonder if the small clamp would work. I’ll pass on that. I did try at a higher angle and it worked.
I was trying to keep it to the 16 degree that Leatherman use. Many thanks for the advice . Keep up the good work.
Do you get hair tree topping edge with this system
Can the Kme sharpen magnacut steel. I’ve not seen anyone do it on a Kme.
Yes ofcourse! The KME is extremely capable! With diamond plates or diamond stones you can sharpen any super steel. Magnacut only has a high rockwell hardness rating for a stainless steel. It’s still lower than alot of the high carbon tool steels. I actually usually find the harder steels more pleasant to sharpen because they debur alot easier!
If I'm only getting the burr on the rear of the bevel, not tword the tip. I'd want to find the angle that is higher say, 20.0 one side 19.8 other, I'd want to even out the 20.0 side first, evenly till burr? Then hit the 19.8 evenly till the burr forms? Only had this much of a uneven problem with a cts-xhp shaman, and accidentally turned it into a chopper! This is a hinderer, so lots of anxiety. And gonna stop and only hope to hear from you! More research is needed, this hinderer seemed fine, but not so much once I brought the angle down.
Hey brother, just now seeing this. Once I get to work and get situated I’ll do my best to answer your question and feel free to message me IG or Facebook and then you can get my number and talk on the phone if need be. It’s difficult to type everything out but id be more than happy to help you! 💯
Imagine listening to a guy giving sharpening tips WITHOUT a bandaid on his finger :)
Can you do a video on the mods you did to ur KME.. Thanks brother! ✌🏽or maybe drop a comment. Be well!
I did one already! Should be in the sharpening playlist! And you too brother 👊🏼
Judah Burg
So basically the kme sharpener is trash?
No, not at all
It's the best system ever, I sharpen tiny Victorinoxes on it and also huge blades like Tops Tracker 1. These tricks are gold.
@@RaduMichael thanks brother!
Let's skip the BS. First off, yeah, after you position the knife you need either strong hands or pliers to tighten the clamp enough to the knife doesn't move. Next, unless you're anal retentive the actual angle as in use of an angle finder is absolutely USELESS. What matters is the angle of the blade RELATIVE to the angle of the stone. If you set to 18 degrees on the scale it doesn't matter if its exactly 18 degrees as long as it is the SAME. I've done hundreds of sharpenings and haven't changed my sharpener in a couple years. Generally I only use two angles anyway, one for thick blades and one for normal/thin blades.
Next up, if you follow the video and position the knife in the clamp as shown the bevel with be a different height near the tip. Why? Because as the blade tapers the angle changes and gets steeper. Almost unnoticeable on thinner knives. If you want to avoid this use a marker and straight edge to draw a line from point to heel of the edge and put this parallel to the clamp jaws.A As to not marking up your blade, mask with painter's tape. No matter how careful I am, how often I blow or wipe the blade, I still end up with small scratches from displaced diamond. Its pretty easy to just tape a couple millimeters above the edge bevel alnd any slips, dust etc is no longer an issue. And for God's sake, use the black marker on the bevel to be sure you are just sharpening, not reprofiling to a slightly new bevel angle. Even if you've don the particular knife many times before, a couple millimeters deeper in the clamp jaws and the angle will be slightly different. A couple light passes with your finest stone will show you if you've matched the angle correctly by just removing the marker from the entire bevel, from heel to point.
Last up, if you are spending 5 minutes or more on a side and its not a super hard steel (Rex45, S90v S110v etc), you're doing something wrong. Chances are you started with too fine a stone. Go back to a courser stone and work up and you'll save time in the long run. Starting at 300 is fine if you are touching up an edge, not if you are not exactly matching the existing bevel.