Adam Savage Upgrades His Knife Sharpener!
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2024
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Adam demonstrates how to use a tabletop knife sharpener system to precisely and effectively restore one of his favorite swiss army pocketknife blades, and talks about the importance and benefits of keeping your knives sharp. It's also an opportunity to modify and upgrade this knife sharpening system to better suit Adam's workflow and make it a more efficient tool!
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Spelled sharpener wrong in the title.
Use a magnet to hold the thing up out of the way.
Would a magnet hold the sliding arm up when you’re trying to rotate the blade?
@@lucromel sorry I didn’t see your comment I was too eager to share an idea that you already said lol 😂
Adam, you might try using the sharpener on a lower table. This should be easier than reaching up, and will also position hand higher out of harm’s way so you won’t cut yourself on your own knife.
Here’s a tip when using these clamp systems: once you have it locked in where you like it, mark where it’s clamped in along the blade with a sharpie, that way in case the blade slides a little you can put it back exactly. The sharpie trick also works along the actual bevel, color the edge in and then you can adjust the angle to match. Once the stone is taking off all the marker you know you’ve matched the original angle. That’ll help keep you from reprofiling the edge every time 👍🏼😆
This is correct. Another thing he doesn't want to do is drag the stone off the tip as he was doing that will round the tip right off. Fixed angle systems are great (I own a TSprof K03 and a Hapstone R2 black) I mainly free hand (I know a girl that loves knifes and sharpens at a professional level? Lol yup that's me!) And find it more rewarding and I can do things freehanding that I can't with a fixed angle system but I also love my fixed angle systems as well. My metallic bonded CBN stones and resin bonded diamond stones on the fixed angle systems can put mirror bevels at a level that isn't possible free handing. Free hand I mainly use Shapton Glass plates or Chosera diamond water stones. On the 30k/0.44 micron shapton glass stone I can get a flawless mirror but with my K03 or R2 and a 0.5 micron metallic bonded CBN stone the mirror that can be done with that finishing stone on the fixed angle is unbelievably flawless. Finish on that 0.5 micron CBN stone then go to 0.1 micron cbn emulsion on 0.1 micron nanocloth strop and then finish on a 0.025 micron nanocloth strop loaded with 0.01 cbn emulsion and the mirror that's left is as bright and flawless as the best beauty mirrors and on a 26 degree inclusive bevel will whittle hair not only against the grain but will whittle hair WITH the grain... when a knife can whittle hair with the grain that is the pinnacle of sharp and the definition of a perfectly formed Apex.
This is what I do. Works every time 👍
Your qualifications are impeccable.
COOOOOBRAAAAAA!!!
@@EDCandLace very cool. I enjoy freehanding aswell. I also have a kme. Very surprised to meet a girl that loves sharpening. Knives is a little more common. But sharpening too. Pretty amazing. Your knowledge is pretty impeccable. Very cool meeting some one like you.
@@EDCandLace ok, now I want to see hair whittling! :-o
Beautifully done Adam!!! To answer a couple of your questions about the sharpener, the jaws are extruded in Pennsylvania, machined to length (+/- .001) in Indiana. The rubber is overmolded onto the jaws in Ohio. We can’t have the cool internal jaw springs like you made because it’s an interchangeable jaw system (there are other sets of specialized jaws that can be swapped out). The springs would go flying 😂.
Oh! You’ll find it much easier to get the stone and rod out of the way if the O-ring is on the same side of the bearing as the stop collar 😉. (Shouldn’t be any kind of stop on the backside). Then ya just pull the rod out, flip the clamp, and put the rod back. Lifting, (no matter how high) won’t work with an 8”-10” blade in the clamp. A most excellent video and analysis sir!!! Thanks very much Adam!
Oh! We wanted to make a sharpener that was every bit as precise and accurate as the big money systems but simpler and less expensive while keeping the system 100% made in the USA
Interesting, thanks for commenting!
@@doomsdayprep1281 No. I can see why that might seem to be the case but the horizontal swing is much greater than vertical. It will sharpen blades up to a bit over 10” of cutting edge. Thanks!
KME is a standup bunch of folks. Super happy to see them getting this publicity
@@jaredanderson2009 Thank you Jared. That’s very kind of you
I wondered why he didn't CA glue one end of the springs to one jaw. Then they wouldn't fly away :-).
I really appreciated the wide camera views, when operating the mill and lathe. Usually these days, the camera is focused on the part only. Its a refreshing view to see the machine being handled. And it definitely fits the part AND maker theme of this channel!
Small tip, unless its a damaged blade edge you are dealing with, if you are just trying to sharpen a normally dulled blade. Put the coarsest stones in a case and leave them there. Just stick with a fine stone and strop and you would be amazed how much quicker the job gets accomplished in. A fine diamond stone will make quick work of sharpening a blade that just needs to have its edge brought back to sharp. The coarse guys are like bringing a sledgehammer to drive a brad nail. They remove a lot of material really quick. You just need to make a quick burr and strop it to have a super sharp blade.
but probably you find yourself in the same position: you wanna resharpen all your friends knives and of course you have to reprofile them ! I do way more reprofiling than resharpen my own knives :). That is if you have good steel that doesn't need resharpening every other week.
@@HueNarcisWorld I am the exact opposite. I just touch up my knives and pretend like I have no idea how to sharpen knives around my friends lmao!
Use a counterweight on the slider, that way it’ll naturally rock out of the way, AND allow for more sensitivity on pressure when sharpening.
threaded for putting on and off when disassembling
@@bmac1152 how about just a hole drilled through the rod and the weight hung from it w/an S-hook? or in opposition to Adam's idea and use a tiny bungee from the bottom instead? I like @fiveshorts idea to increase sensitivity, but i'd have to use it to see if that'd make useful mechanical sense to my hands while in use..
Exactly my idea. Pretty simple and would work perfectly. Kinda surprised he didnt think of it himself considering how smart he is
That’s a really good idea!
My father just used a sinker and some o-rings. Works great.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm ruclips.net/user/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
One of my absolute favorite things about Adam is even if he mods something he still gives credit where credit is do like on the simplicity of the clamp even tho he’s moding it he still appreciates the original design
I've had this exact kit for years. It's cool seeing how they've improved the design slightly over time.
Adam's looks are coming closer to a crazy scientist everyday that passes. That's awesome
Mabe he will say "1.21 gigawatts !!".
Prof Simon younger brother.
The ability to buy a cheap knife sharpening system and not use it properly isn't really what I'd call a crazy scientist.
10.03 case closed
As far as keeping the rod in place, perhaps just adding a counterbalance weight would work. I'm thinking of the way a tone arm works on some turntables.
Yup, I was screaming COUNTER WEIGHT!!
Same, and maybe it could have a "squeeze to release" mechanism, so it replaces (and improves on) the O-ring (routine).
The counter weight could use the spare diamonds that aren't being used.
Came for this, maybe to continue the ball aesthetic, a steel ball on the end, drilled to fit the rod. My first thought on retention is some rubber or similar tube inside that hole so you can pop it on and off easily. Actually as I think about it, maybe hex stock instead of a ball so you can set it down and not worry about it rolling off the bench. Plus you could tune the weight easier.
Older turntables would use a spring. Something like that could also be used, particularly with an adjustment for balance.
Great video as always.
Idea for the rod: you may try to use a carefully weighted "pommel" such that it barely affects your motion while sharpening, but when the stone portion of the sharpener is fully retracted towards the main body it is just heavy enough to keep the rod out of your way
If it slides the weight can be adjusted like a titer toter.
The KME is an amazing system, I don't think I'd trade mine for anything! So cool to see someone famous using it!
I love these tool modification videos. It always seems sacrilegious to cut into a professionally-made tool, but also very exhilarating to know that you are making it work better for yourself!
I modify nearly every tool I own to fit my workflow.
I just spent 26 minutes watching Adam sharpen a Swiss Army knife and modify the sharpener at a level I am in awe of.
Loved every second of it.
As far as the “rest” maybe something as simple as a thin rope attached to the base with a small but strong rare earth magnet on the opposite end to magnetically hold the rod?
Been in the ifixit community for years. The ifixit brand of tools are excellent and the rare times I needed it the customer service is second to none. Excellent company. I am willing to spend a few extra dollars over unknown name because iFixit stands behind their stuff and their community. I want to reciprocate that loyalty.
Adam, I don't know if you'll see this but I hope you do... I grew up on Mythbusters and having the opportunity to continue enjoying the manic brilliance in action with your Tested channel and watching you in your cave is a wonderful thing for me, taking me back to my youth... thank you so much for all of the things you've taught me and for the scores of hours of edutainment that you've provided. I hope you and yours have a wonderful 2023!
Anyone else feel a little swell of pride or satisfaction when you see Adam review/use something that you had already started using before? I’ve had a KME for 10 years and like it a lot. Great company and great product.
I’m a full on Knife Knut, so this video makes me happy. 😆The KME is an awesome set up, good choice 👍🏼
It's been a while since I've watched one of your videos, but anytime I see you here on YT or on TV in general I remeber the lighthearted days when I was kid watching Mythbusters and living a much simpler and fun life life. Thanks Adam, it's always a joy watching your stuff
Adam, I very much appreciate you fluency with operating these large machines. Almost as if you become connected with it, you never move without purpose.
So intriguing watching you re-engineer things that we use. It has been so fun watching the reruns of Mythbusters on the Science channel. Growing up and having that as one of our options to ignite so many of us into tinkering and learning things we have never would have dabbled into. Thanks Adam, amazing video!
I am a knife maker and I do my initial sharpening on m 2x72 grinder for all my knives and then finish up on my KME.
I can't remember how long ago, could be over three decades ago I purchased a "Lansky sharpener" and it was a smaller version of this one and it worked great. I've seen other samples, like this one that I call "knock-offs" of the "Lansky sharpening system". Believe me, it works great and it's nice to see newer versions of it, but they are all similar to the device I bought a long time ago with some new bells and whistles added. Anyone that wants a good sharpening system, this is it. It takes time, but time well spent. Thanks for all your videos Adam, they have inspired me to get my shop in order!
I would recommend getting the pen knife clamp. It’s great for smaller knives, like SAKs. I’ve been using a KME for about 5 years, it’s awesome!
One other tip, I actually have mine mounted on a board which I clamp to my bench.
I have that exact same system, and it works beautifully. However, there are a few tips you might consider.
-- First of all, there should be a second threaded collar on the guide rod to provide a positive stop on both the in-stroke and the outstroke. The O-ring is really just there for padding.
-- Second, there is a set of "pen knife jaws" available from KME for really small blades. They cost $25 and are very useful. There is also a set of jaws for sharpening traditional 2-blade arrowheads and a scissor attachment for (shocker!) sharpening scissors.
-- Third, if you want a highly polished bevel on your knife (polished bevels look better, last longer, and excel at push cutting although don't slice quite as well) you can get a DMT Aligner 8,000 grit diamond stone that does an excellent job. You have to shorten it by 1/3 of an inch to make it fit, but that is very easy to do. I simply sawed through the plastic backing on the stone with the saw on my Swisschamp and then held each side with a pair of pliers to snap off the metal to the proper length. It took just a few minutes and works great. Thankfully, the stone is already the same thickness as the KME diamond stones so you don't have to reset anything to use it.
-- Forth, if you put some masking tape on the blade before you clamp it, it will prevent scratching the finish, and you can draw a line along the edge of the clamp with a Sharpie so that you can see if the blade shifts at all while you're sharpening it and put it back in the original position if it does.
-- Fifth, a set of strops is a very worthwhile addition as are the Hewlett JewelStik 1-2-3 sharpener for recurve blades and the tapered diamond rod for sharpening serrations.
-- Lastly, unless the blade is really dull or damaged you may consider starting with one of the finer stones and save the 140 grit stone for those times when you really need to remove some metal on a really dull/damaged blade or to reprofile the edge. Starting with the 140 grit stone means doing a lot more polishing work at the end to remove all the scratches it leaves!
Also, I really like the idea of the spring-loaded jaws!
Gun slinger! Pleasure seeing you here! Normally run in to you at Neeves, Mike Emlers etc etc...
To your last point 140 *really* is only meant for changing the bevel angle or if you get a chip in the blade, kinda cringed when he started out using that stone... hell I don't think I use anything below DMT's "Fine" (600 Mesh) stone when re-sharpening my knives or woodworking tools. Also a leather strop with some green jeweler's polish will take sharpness to the next level I really like my Butz Strop I got at woodcraft for this, might be overkill for most knives but for woodworking chisels or planes it's a godsend
@@MEatRHIT2009-- I agree. On the last knife I sharpened on my KME I started with the 600 grit stone. If there is any sharpness left to the edge at all the 140 grit stone just causes you more work rather than less. For stropping on the KME I use three of their kangaroo leather strops treated with 1.5, 0.5, & 0.1 micron diamond solutions from Jende Enterprises. They do a superb job, but a good leather strop with green compound also works really well and for a lot less money. Still, a knife hasn't been properly sharpened until it's been stropped!
If you want to cheat a little and get a razor-sharp edge on a knife really quickly you can get a 1x30" belt sander and put a Surgi-Sharp stropping belt on it with green compound. It only takes a few seconds per side to get a truly hair-poppin' edge on most knives with a setup like that. The only drawback is that it tends to convex the edge a bit so it's not really great for tools like chisels, knives with Scandi-grinds, or anything that you don't want a convex edge on. For quick and very effective touch-ups though, as long as you don't mind a convex edge, it flat-out works!
@@futuresonex For my Shun stainless steel kitchen knives I actually use a harbor freight 1x30 belt sander with 600-2000 grit belts and an angle guide from "pro sharpening supplies" since the VG10 blades are so hard it's incredibly difficult to do by hand as a novice with my diamond stones and keep a consistent edge angle. Carbon steel blades are a lot easier and more forgiving since they don't take nearly as many passes to sharpen on stones. At some point I'd like to upgrade to a variable speed belt as I find the one speed harbor freight sander to be a bit too aggressive especially for small blades that can't dissipate the heat as well. For now it works well taking very light passes on my VG10 knives though.
For my woodworking tools I still use a jig and my stones since those definitely need to have a flat bevel, plus since they are tool steel they tend to be easier to sharpen by hand, the jig I have has a micro bevel adjustment which cuts down on the surface area you have to sharpen which is nice when you're doing things by hand
@@MEatRHIT2009 If it's in your budget take a look at the Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Knife & Tool Sharpener with the Blade Grinding Attachment. It works exceptionally well on knives of all sizes.
I've had a KME sets along with several of the add ons, for a couple years now, and absolutely love it! Before I had this kit I thought I had sharp knifes, but I was so wrong. The only downside to having this system is having to sharpen all your friends knifes.
Have you looked at that tsprof sharpening system? It’s like the natural upgrade to the kme, you can use the same stones, just seems to be a more stable platform
@@MrNiceGuy80x5 If you want stable, get a normal stone and lay it on the table haha. Also probably the best thing to purchase if you are at all interested in sharp knives or tools.
Adam this video was AWESOME, you hit the nail on the head with the knife sharpener. You made it better, so it worked for you. I love doing the same thing. Watching other videos on the same subject you find 9 thousands ways to Sunday doing the same thing. Here you took something that was to your aware and made it better.
to keep the sharpening block itself up and out of the way; add a magnet at the back standing up from the base that the rod can reach and snap into
To get the arm out the way, how about a bar that fits into the stand with a hook at top, simply lift the bar with stone and under the hook. The weight will keep.the tension... the bar/hook should be at the back of the machine where the bar pokes out.
Had the same idea! I so badly want to try this now
That was my thought just a hook or something off the base. Seems like the obvious solution. Or just ignore the fact that the bar flops around. Work with it.
I had a similar idea only replace the hook with a small magnet assuming the rod is ferrous.
I was thinking of a ~1.5" brass sphere to act as a counterweight.
To be fair, the company who makes this sharpener did comment and let Adam know that the o-ring isn’t meant to be on the backside of the rod, meaning you can just slide the whole rod out when you need to flip the knife, and then just slide it back in 🤷🏼♂️
I own a KME and am a knife geek. You nailed it with this video. Those are two things people commonly upgrade on this kit and you did an awesome job
OMG, it does my heart such good to see so many fine fine geeks, doing their thing with wild abandon... Thank you Adam for being the uber-nerd that makes that kind of deep geekery not only welcome, but inspired.
I love it! Making modifications to make your gear better, it's so incredibly satisfying.
I bet putting a counterweight on the long end of that rode to keep the stone lifted up and out of the way would work pretty well.
Excellent idea. =)
Exactly what I was thinking. I like my Lanske setup better than that system
Had the same thoughts. But you commented already. I just now noticed your comment. 😋
I was thinking about a magnet to attach in the back, but i like your idea too :D
i really didnt know that there was a thing of stopping us from modifying products we buy...the horror. I love how you made the sharpener work for you! I modify my stuff all the time to make it work better for me, never gave it a second thought. Nice job.
It's mainly a movement by manufacturers who desire the never-ending consumer purchasing of their products, rather than those products being repaired. I was a TV technician 20 years ago, but went into another electronics field when televisions started becoming cheaper to replace than to repair. Try and find an actual TV repair shop in your town. In my area, they don't even exist any more. The manufacturers don't even produce schematics that would be essential for an electronic repair technician.
I believe this is part of the Digital Millennium Copyright Act which was mostly aimed at software. You're right; it's a horror.
Unfortunately, it's true. Especially with electronics where you can't just take to your nearest repair shop due to lock outs. Parts are nearly impossible to get unless you can get devices that you can cannibalize parts from. It's a pain. Also, you're dinged if you root or jailbreak your smartphones, iPhones, and tablets.
Love the addition of the knob on the stone holder. I have the very basic version of this sharpener and now I'll be adding a knob of my own of some sort. Love that you took a few hours and broke out a thousand tools to improve a sharpener that you could have just used to sharpen the blade in a few minutes as it was. Tinkerers Unite! I'm on about my dozen'th listen to the "Every tool is a hammer" audio book. Enjoy the videos too. Much gratitude to you, Adam.
It's so nice to see a craftsman like you, simplify things
Thanks for sharing! Put a counter weight on the tail of the guide rod and stropping after sharpening brings a whole new level of sharpness. Sharpie on the edge between stones help you see where you have been i make even strokes and count the passes i make, the sharpie helps me see where i need to go more.
When Adam tricked the cameramen with the little ball like that in at 9:24 I genuinely lost it. So innocent yet so funny.
Hey Adam, I'd like to say that I really enjoy all your episodes of "Tested", and I would also like to express my appreciation for the time and dedication you put forth into each episode allowing the vast number of fans you have accumulated and retained from your time on"Mythbusters". I feel as though I can speak for the majority of us, saying this. We really enjoy and appreciate you sharing your projects, and passions with us through RUclips.
As for some tips referring to this episode. I learned that in times of using a hand sharpening stone you can use the thickness of two American ¢25 quarters to gauge the angle of the edge, if there isn't a preexisting edge to follow.
I've had mine now for about 3 years now and no regrets.
Yes, get an after market knob. Easy to find on the net.
Great system and the clamp is very good, and even
clamps full grind knives EVENLY. So many accessories
and stones. As a matter of fact I spoke to owners today.
Great people. Very helpful and take the time to answer
your questions. I can't recommend this product enough.
Adam is just the mad scientist we need in these crazy times.
Work your strokes the full length of the stone and work from tip to heel. The lower grit stone (150) is for a totally new profile for the edge, you can start higher. To get your edge alignment right, take a sharpie and colour the edge bevel in and do some test strokes to ensure you've gotten the edge angle right.
We don't know how dull Adam's knife was. It looked to me like he hadn't seen that sharpening system for years. So I'd assume it was probably pretty dull.
@@1pcfred Could be true but for that particular balde steel the course stone is way to aggressive.
@@SRVandDtrouble it is only aggressive if used aggressively. There's no sign here that happened. What you say could be true in some circumstances but we cannot definitively say that happened here. All indications in fact are in the negative of that being the case. In the end Adam seemed happy with the results he achieved. With only that to go by we have to assume he did OK.
@@1pcfred The sound of that coarse stone on the blade edge was NASTY !
@@edwardfletcher7790 it is abrasion. It takes me back to when I used to sharpen sticks on concrete when I was a child. I can still remember the joy of when I was first trusted to sharpen a real knife on a stone. It was one of those defining moments in life. I found something I liked to do. Over 50 years later and I'm still at it.
I always thought I was weird for buying things and making my own adjustments to them. This makes me feel a lot better!
I love watching this guy work, just watching the dance that goes on in his head us amazing.
Hi Adam, I am a old watcher of Mythbusters. It's so cool to see you having this youtube channel! Best regards from the Netherlands.
Great mods Adam! I personally prefer whetstones, but it does take a great deal of practice.
I have the same system and have used it for years. It is great and very easy to use.
Wow! One of the first times I have ever enjoyed the sponsored segment.
"Right to Repair" Hell fkn yeah!! 💪🏽🧠🤯
5:31
I'm a little paranoid about these things, but one extra step I'd add is to flip the clamp around and check the angle on the other side before starting. Depending on the blade geometry, the type of clamp, and the position of the clamp on the blade, you can occasionally clamp the blade at an angle with respect to the center plane of the jaws. If this happens, you end up with uneven bevel angles on either side.
Exactely! Most easily happens with full flat grinds. ->when there is no section with parallel sides on the back of the blade.
@@nirfz yep! Learned that the hard way with a Lansky sharpener and a Spyderco Para 3.
Love the work Adam
Love the SwissChamp! My Brother-In-Law gave me one for Christmas many years ago, it's been part of my every day carry since. It came with a leather case, compass/ruler and sharpening stone. One of my most prized posessions!
You're making a lot of knife lovers very happy with this video LOL
I've been using a KME for a couple years and love it. The only mods I've done were adding a large knob to the end to grip the thing and some big rubber feet for the base. I'm not sure I like how the knob on top as it may change the geometry such that I'd be worried about putting too much downward pressure on the blade or getting a pinky finger in the way of the blade if I wasn't paying attention.
Hi Adam,
To hold the stone/slide out of the way I reckon epoxy a tiny magnet on the back of the stone holder and add a small piece steel angle to the top of the bevel rod guide (or vice versa). Cheers mate 👍
The Lansky sharpening system is a great option too, depending what kit you get it ranges from $40-$125, lots of extra attachments and stones you can add too. Will easily get you to scary sharp.
This.
I couldn't straighten the rods consistently enough... most ppl didn't seem to have trouble when I was researching it, so must just be my gumby human hands.
Bad.
@@autumn5592 wrong
@@false-set There’s definitely a bit of finessing you have to do. Especially after prying them from their plastic confines. 😂
Hi Adam, I'm just so pleased that you and I have the same knife sharpening system! I love it and will also be adding a knob to the top of the unit. I have become the go to guy for all the knives that need sharpening from the girls at my wife's work. My hand gets so sore after a few knifes, the Knob would take a lot of pain away. Thank you for another great video.
I have a kme, absolutely love it. If you watch some of their videos, they will tell you that the sharpener is really intended to be handheld, as opposed to base. I like to use the base to achieve my burr on both sides with the first stone, then switch to handheld for all remaining stones. When you hold the base in your hand, it is actually quite easy to use your forefinger as a top hook on the guide rod when you need to hold it out of the during switching sides or just taking a break. Or applying a little honing oil, etc
The handle could have been extended to cover the pin at the base so that it rests against the platform and gives a little more stability.
Adam,
For everything you need to sharpen in your shop, you might want to consider getting a tormek t8 sharpener. They are about the best power wet stone sharpener with jigs to perfectly sharpen almost anything.
It's an awesome system, but things happen a lot faster with power tools and that means it's a lot easier for an amateur to ruin a beautiful knife or tool in an instant. Adam isn't running a job shop, he does this for fun. Getting things done faster isn't always the number one priority.
I absolutely LOVE my Tormek!
Also, the vanish move on the knob/ball was brilliant. Not expected, and it made me crack up that you did that.
The expensive Russian knife sharping machine you mentioned in the beginning of the video is really amazing looking. I watch a video of a RUclipsr putting it together and using it, and the machining the guy who built it put in to fabricating the parts is true craftsmanship.
I hear the KME is very beloved by those who use it. I use a Wicked Edge, which has the advantage of being able to make alternating strokes on each side since the blade points straight up on the clamp. Absolutely love mine!
Another great cheaper option is the new Work Sharp Precision Adjust + Upgrade Kit.
I use the Apex edge pro. It's very good too once you got a good collection of the stones.
Had a KME it's horribly overrated. Any heavy blade/knife will tip it over, the grip is backwards, the soft plastic collar inside the wood handle gets deformed instantly, the sharpener doesn't support thicker blades, doesn't support full flat grinds, all the weight of the knife is one sided so it's easy to topple over, the jaw design means your will be grinding it down over time, and is overall poorly machined and built for $225.
I also use the wicked edge. Great sharpener.
Wicked edge is preferred sharpening system, but KME definitely gets the job done
The TSPROF build quality addresses a lot of the fixes you did to the KME. I'm a product engineer and don't get to design things to my liking either :) Tale as old as time.
When Adam mentioned high priced Russian sharpeners that is likely what he was talking about.
@@paulwujek5208 agreed!
KME rules! Have had one for 3 years now. Cool that you have one, and like your mods! Will think of using some of your ideas!
He is the real life iron man ! The way he can go from tool to tool and task to task with such enthusiasm and understanding is so inspiring. And just create something out of nothing. I’m jealous of the camera man .. he gets real time knowledge on a daily basis .. what an amazing gift in his life to learn so much from this legend In real time ❤
Here's an idea for holding the rod out of the way... Add some kind of a post off the bottom plate (that holds the entire sharpening jig in place) with a large-ish diameter rare earth magnet on it located at a point in space where you can just tip the back of the rod down to it so it will be held out of the way.
Would love to see more content with yourself and Tom Sachs in the future. Even a Q&A question: How much did you heed Tom Sachs' rules for film-making in your self-filmed shop videos during the pandemic? It felt very in the spirit of Tom Sachs and early Neistat videos!
Anyone who has pride in their creation is going to be appreciative and honored by you making it your own. I mean probably extra honored that it's you, Adam, but I meant in general.
Thanks, just bought the KME, but wasn’t sure how to set it up. Appreciate the walk through.
Adam should try the lansky sharpener. It can get a kitchen knife (or any other blade) down to a sharpness rating of 95 which is as sharp as a utility knife, and it’s only $70. Also he should check out project farm if he hasn’t already. He’s the one who tested all these sharpening systems and the only one that did better than the lansky was a $900 dollar sharpener and it only beat the lansky by 10 points, which is almost nothing.
Yeah but he already has a KME so there's not much point in going to a lansky which is trying to mimic the KME
The sharpener Adam has seems like a pretty good one as far as the guide rod sharpeners go. I don't know if he'd be getting things any sharper with something else. He's admittedly no sharpening expert either. Although really if you're into DIY you should know how to sharpen. Because having sharp tools is a plus. So I consider it a fundamental skill.
Lansky is a worse system in every aspect. PF is not a reliable source for testing.
I have a lansky, have used it for years, and it does an excellent job. I can see the advantage of the KME. The downside is it's 3x the price. Take your pick.
@@pgramsey1 I've been sharpening for 30 years. Diamond Lansky all the way. Those expensive systems are overpriced. These people don't know what they re talking about.
I've always found that Swiss Army Knives have such soft metal for their blades that they won't hold an edge.
That's because the blade is made of Victorinox, inox meaning inoxidable or stainless in French. Stainless steels have high amounts of Chromium but are usually relatively low in Carbon so they can't be hardened as much as other carbon steels hence the poor edge retention.
@@behemothinferno That's kinda funny you say that. Victorinox (company) makes a pairing knife with a serrated edge that is extremely highly regarded among cooks, outdoorsmen, and so many more. It's cheap, and really holds an edge due to the thin blade, and design of the serration.
@@behemothinferno this is just straight up wrong. Stainless can be just as hard as any other steel depending on its metallurgy, Victorinox are well renowned for their knives and will be just as hard as any consumer aimed knives. A swiss army knife may or may not use full hardening steel but it has nothing to do with the brand or being stainless
@@overkill246 That is correct for some stainless in general, particularly powder steel alloys like S110V, M390, or 204p (which have 4 to 6 times the Carbon of 12C27M [similar to Inox]). These stainless powder alloys can have a HRC much higher than Victorinox's choice stainless. Unless you are reprofiling the edge, the 130 grit diamond stone is completely unecessary.
Adam has got to be the king of the nerds and I am totally here for it!
For my needs, I appreciate the simplicity of the Horl sharpener.
I've looked at KME in the past, but never liked the grip. A neutral grip like what you made is a great idea.
Also, color your edge with a sharpie so you know that you're getting the correct edge. The stone will remove the sharpie and you can see if you're hitting your apex or not.
It's also easy to just replace the knob on the end with a larger one. Lots of KME users do that. Preferable to adding that weight above the stone IMO
What I'd like to do is have some sort of extra grip for my Lansky. The stones are just a little too narrow to get a comfortable grip for extended periods.
@@travisaurus_rex agreed, I have a Lansky too and have the same gripe
@@willblake72 it's even 1/4 20 thread...
Whet stones and diamond stones all the way, plus sharpening (grinding and honing) angles become far more intuitive with practise 😉🙂
Just a suggestion about how to "park" the sharpening stone/rod assembly ..... Add an arm to the rear side of the sharpener, with a small NdFeb magnet on its end. The rod can be held by the magnet, keeping the stone off the blade being sharpened, while rotating the blade to the other side. By using just the right strength of magnet, the rod (stone)can easily be returned to service by lifting the rod off the magnet.
Your tattoo is probably my favorite part of your videos! So useful!
The roughness of the stones should align with the strength/durability of the steel. Meaning, for a simple stainless like on the Victorinox you don't need to start with the roughest stones. You can actually start with a much finer grit and get your edge back very quickly. A very rough stone would be used if you were to re-profile/re-shape the sharpening angle.
Being as Adam hasn't sharpened that knife in years if ever we can reasonably assume it needed some work to get sharp. 150 is pretty coarse though.
Here’s a question for Adam. How does it feel to be a reference? I can’t even tell how many times a RUclips channel or TV show I’m watching will use myth busters as a reference to back up their point.
Thanks for this video I’ve been looking into getting this system myself.
Hey Adam, on the back end of the rod, you can modify the o-ring to include a metal arm coming down and attach a small button magnet that could hold the arm assembly onto a metal bracket. When done sharpening, just lift it all the way.
I have a similar sharpener less costly but just as good. Work sharp precision adjust knife sharpener.
The wood handle is much nicer than teflon
Teflon seemed like a poor material choice for this use to me. I guess that piece was just burning a hole in Adam's stock though.
i'm thinking of nonstick pans when i heard it, why would you want a non-stick handle? maybe it's not that bad though.
Adam's drills fascinates me. I'm a home remodeler, which obviously has different demands on the tools we use than Adam's as a fabricator/model maker, but seeing him with some of the most top of the line tools, and then having those old brushed DeWalt drills and drivers is so crazy to me. I don't know, I guess I'm used to guys going and getting the best stuff they can get their hands on as soon as they can, and he just seems content with his gear.
Lmao true
It's always interesting to watch Adam Savage tinkering around.
Dear Adam I enjoyed you modifying this knife sharpener. However I take exception to your use of a cordless drill to take it apart. You see about 7 years ago I had a spinal cord issue that caused me to loose the use of my hands and other body parts over about 2 months. My health care provider failed me and took 18 months plus to figure out my problem. And then another 24 months recover 98% of my fine motor skills and while it may seem trivial the first thing I noted was I couldn’t us a screwdriver it kept falling out of my hand. I learned to use care in disassembling things, this was one of my greatest pleasure’s. I love a cordless drill for all it sub functions. But using power is not better, Tim Taylor’s “more power oh oh oh” is is not better unless your swapping out the motor in a dishwasher for a small jet engine. Hand tools are best!
I could fall asleep from just listening to the tools and Adam work
I am amazed how patient Adam is.... the best knife sharpener I use is the one my dad taught me while in the kitchen (he was a chef); the underside of a bowl or a plate. There's always one around and it's quick and easy, and it works a treat just like a poor man's sharpening stone.
Thanks for the idea i just spring loaded the vice on my worksharp.
Great video! I was wondering what brand Bridgeport mill do you have?
Looks good, my knob mod was using a larger one on the end of the guide rod. Also the "sharpie" trick along the edge to determine your initial angle is key. When the stone removes the sharpie evenly, then you have the right angle. Also scrap the "stops" on the rod, don't need em.
It is amazing how much time in a shop is spent working on tools. Maintenance and finding ways to make your tools easier to use eats up almost as much time as the projects they help you complete. Great video Adam.
Thought: what about mounting a bungee to the base? That would hold your sharpening arm out of the way while making adjustments. A tight fitting rubber grommet could grip the rod without damaging anything.
I just got the basic set to work on my nintendo, after seeing your original recomendation! I am enjoying tinkering and modding stuff now!
I've used my KME sharpener for years now, had my gripes with the design of it as well, ended up doing my own mods too. Happy to see your modifications and how we're all different. I chose to put the ball handle on the end of the grip, and took the plastic tighteners off the all thread all together cause it just kept tearing my skin up. Ended up using multiple nuts on the middle portion for double tightening the knife on since 1 nut backs itself off. And a bigger surface to push on at the back to compress the jumbo spring so i dont wear out the dimples every time i rotate the knife during sharpening. Lil bit of oil every use and it's been smooth sailing since. Oh and they sell smaller jaws for the tiny knives. Comes in handy. I'd also suggest getting a decent digital level for precise angle setting for those finnicky kitchen knives.
I love my swiss champ. Had it 30 years now
Hey Adam, by the way you are a SAVAGE! I feel like you are the M Motorsport and AMG Benz of the real world products! I hope the youth watch your vids and see how things really work and use their brains in a way they never imagined! Been a fan since your early days, stay safe and keep perfecting things that need it! Best regards from NY
I just made a permanent bench mounted stand for mine out of some old ash I had lying around and I should have done it years ago! The edge comes out 1000x more consistent and wicked sharp!
Love that scaled composites sticker on you mill!
Hey Adam! Professional chef who sharpens his own hardened Japanese steel knives! When you sharpen on strict angles(which should always be done) you actually leave a small wire of material right on the tip of the blade similar edges of sliced rubber which gives the illusion of an instantly razer sharp blade(because the wire edge is as thin as one) that disappears shortly after ypu start using it leaving most people dissatisfied. Honing rods generally don't get rid of it so my mentor always instructed me to run the edge into a piece of soft wood as If you were going to do a long draw slice to get rid of the wire, then do a few finishing passes on a fine stone to perfect the edge! Instantly takes knives from razer from a few hours of use to a few weeks of constant use!
I especially appreciate Adam's wild and crazy Doc Brown hair in this video. "GREAT SCOTT!"
Great video mate. I'm old school and just use sharpening stones. Although I know I'm lucky to have put in the time to have learnt that method.