24:25 Full Delica K390 Sharpening and stropping with the leather strop hones 49:26 full sharpening with the Spyderco K11 Kitchen Knife in Vg10 1:08:10 general thoughts and summary of whats good LONGASS video I know and hopefully I’ve answered or shown any lingering questions you have about the system!
I'm here to learn ❤️ The kme sharpening system has been kind to me, and I'm grateful you've made this video Thank you (also I'm assuming you're not sick anymore =)
I own the WORKSHARP PRECISION GUIDED SHARPENER, do you think it basically works the same as the KME sharpener. I also have different stones and gits from Gripmatic.
Just watched this entire thing, beginning to end, while enjoying a beer and sharpening a couple knives on my new KME setup. I learned a few things and had a good time. Thanks!
Well done Pete! I’d just like to point out that the rubber coming loose in your jaws, and the nylon ball popping out are warranty parts. Lifetime guarantee buddy. BTW, the rubber coming loose has been addressed and isn’t happening on newer units. Great vid sir and that Nick Shabazz is a great guy and awesome friend huh? 👍
To both you gentleman, have had my KME system going on 5-6 yrs now with tremendous results. I've sharpened upper hundreds of knives with incredible results. Going to slightly re-profile my mantra 2 today. I sharpen all my friends and families knives and have breathed new life into many many knives. Thank you KME. Critique/comment... Jaws rubber being corrected is great. When mine came out I used a hot glue gun in replacement to rubbers with great results. Actually holds some MEGA smooth surface knives better than the rubbers. Only wish...ONLY WISH (this system is still the best for 4"-under blades) would be the ability move pivot ball slightly to the left and right. Allowing me to maintain consistent angles all the way to the tip and hilt blade areas. Feels like with some blade designs in that 3.75-4" blades, that distance variance at the far ends changes the angle slightly and I've seen deeper bevels on the ends due to this variance. Some side to side movement in pivot "may" help with this? Iam no engeneer, may not be accurate or possible, just a suggestion. I don't know how I lived w/o this system and thank you again for giving my treasure chest of knives SOO much more dangerously sharp life. 🙏
Hi Kme. I'm just about to buy one of your sharpening systems here in the UK. Could you please clarify how to differentiate between the older model and the newer one? Thanks.
@@CedricAda The main problem with the "lifetime guarantee" for most product, is the shipping cost is on the customer. In Canada, you end up paying 20$ or more to get your product "fixed for free".
I have been sharpening knives for 60 years. Been doing it semi correctly for 40 years. /been getting better. Really enjoyed your video. Got some film from fiber optics guy and you gave me the idea how to use it. Since I am not a spring chicken, I've learned thru trial and error. I strive for perfection as you do. Across the pond ... keep up the good work.
I watched this again as I was setting up my new Kme. Very helpful. I sharpened a couple old beaters and they came out great. Thanks again for the great video.
Ya know, I’ve watched this video 3x times now. I’ve been collecting knives for a few years now and wanted to upgrade my sharpening system, but wanted to make sure that I’m not wasting my money on a subpar system. Especially the KME. It’s not inexpensive. But I think I’m going to pull the trigger on the KME Gold system. I see it’s available on Amazon now. Which makes it much easier to purchase, honestly. Just wanted to say thanks again for taking the time to share this video. I probably would have went with a WorkSharp if you hadn’t uploaded this 😂. Much appreciated, brother. Thanks again for all you do for ya knife guys
I've been using a KME for years (and an inferior Lansky for years before), and I still learned a lot from this excellent video. Thanks for making time to share your hard-won expeience, Pete.
I use a drop or two of Windex on the diamond stones as a lube while sharpening as was recommended by I don't remember who. The liquid captures the metal being shaved off. Every once in a while, while working, you just use a rag or paper towel to remove the sludge from the blade and diamond stone surface. Might not matter in your shed but if you're working in the kitchen like me you don't want metal filings to get into everything. But most importantly the metal particles are small enough and light enough to inhale while working closely on the KME. My belief is that those particles can't be good for you if you sharpen a substantial number of knives on a regular basis. Don't know if you have Windex (a glass window cleaner) in Australia. And yes, changing fingers while applying the emulsions to the strop isn't overthinking it, it's the right call! Great show!
I've been watching your videos for about 3 years now, and I love them. I actually got my KME kit on your recommendation, and I absolutely loved it. The only issue I kept having was the fact that the knifes ALWAYS shifted in the jaws, no matter how tight I clamped them... I ended up purchasing the TSPROF K03 a couple months back, and their clamps are way more secure, in my opinion
@@CedricAda the K03 (the big professional one) is about triple the price of the KME... But boy is it worth it. I cannot sing the praises enough. I did have to modify the stone holder a bit to accept my KME stones, but other than that, it has enabled me to put incredible edges on my knives that I could not achieve on the KME (and in a shorter amount of time ~15 mins/blade). I've actually started a small side gig doing restorations & sharpening, and my clients have noticed the difference as well.
Had my KME for about a year and a half, gotten the basic kit plus lapping films and strops, and I love it! Went from little sharpening skill to razor sharp mirror edges. The black line along the clamp is a habit I need to get into.
I'll say that putting black electric tape on the knife where the jaws clamp will greatly reduce any shifting of the blade during sharpening. I do it all the time.
I use a small piece of paper towel between the jaws and the knife on my lansky. Seems to lock the blade in place better than tape beacause there's no adhesive to smush and slide around. Also prevents scratches very well.
Got my KME last night.. Just got done sharpening my Osborne 940 in M4 . The results are crazy sharp. So sharp that I wiped the blade done with a paper towel and cut myself!!! Holy crap I’m gonna lose a finger. I didn’t even get all of my accessories yet. That was with the diamond stones 140 through 1500 and my hand strop
I finish all my edges with a 0.1 micron strop which is equivalent to 200,000 grit lol, using a different finger for each emulsion is what you should be doing. Only thing I could recommend is wiping the blade with a cloth after each grit to remove any grit residue from the previous grit. Great video 👍
200,000 grit...................LOLOLOLOL get real dude. A straight razor sharpened to 10,000 grit and a strop will get you sharpness to cleanly shave your face. in terms of usefulness and utility do you think you're really going to get at 2000,000...............Hmmmmmmmm? nothing
Very thorough review. You do the best thorough review on RUclips. Some of us appreciate all the ends and outs of a product good or bad. Thanks for helping your viewers make a informed decision. This is better than a five star on Amazon!!!
You said it’s sort of hard for you to get a hair shaving edge compared to free hand sharpening. I do both, on water stones and on a Lansky guided rod sharpener with diamond stones. What I learned to be working to get a razor sharp edge (as well as a polished one) is to apply less pressure with the strops and don’t overdo it while stropping. Applying a lot of pressure to the leather makes the apex a little round again because the material is softer and forms sort of a concave shape, resulting in a convex shape on the edge. Also pulling the sharpened edge softly through some softer wood often helps to remove the last bit of a burr on the edge. Just my two cents… pardon my english, not a native speaker.
Peter, thank you for the great demonstration. I love your videos and watch anything you put out. I have been using 3M lapping films with great success. I put a mirror finish on all my knives. I love that look and the performance they bring. 🔪🎸
Thanks Pete! Thorough, and thoroughly informative. I started out hand sharpening but for the knives I really love, it’s gotta be a guided system like this. Gives me confidence that I will always improve my knife, rather than risk ruining it.
The internal threading for the knob is 1/4"-20 McMaster-Carr has a few acrylic ones that work. Nice overview Pete. I love my KME and find using it to be almost therapeutic.
Beautifully done indeed! I especially like the little tip about doing the line on the blade below the jaws. Have a beautiful day brother stay safe and healthy 😘👍
Pete, I'm so glad you did this video. I was actually thinking annoy doing the same thing for my Wicked Edge Go after about 200 knives, but I haven't decided yet. I have a couple new strops coming this week to further improve my mirrors. I love how clear you are in explaining things, I love your sense of humor, & I'm so glad you're part of the knife community! Keep it up my man! 😃
You have done 1,000 blades. Good Lord. That seems like a full time job mate. I do maybe 7 kitchen blades every two weeks cause my wife won't keep the edge off the bambo board. Plus I do my carry stuff every few weeks just for fun. Geez you cut a lot. But I think you turned me to the KME about three years ago.
The 50 grit beast actually gets the most use in my setup. Generally, when I sharpen a folder for the first time, I reprofile the edge to the most acute angle I can possibly get. I'll even resort to tricks like clamping the handle instead of the blade so the stones are in no danger of hitting the clamp. While I do own the convexing rod, in retrospect I could just freehand something if I wanted a convex. At least it's one of the cheaper accessories! The scissor sharpening rig though, oh yes. There's a perverse joy to be had in getting a mirror edge on a nice pair of shears.
@@kurtglo Afraid I don't keep track of the precise angles, but on the KME, if you run the risk of 'sharpening' the clamp as well as your knife, that's fairly acute in my books. Naturally, this varies a lot depending on the thickness and breadth of the blade in question. Freehanding, I'll sometimes go as far as to sharpen the primary bevel almost exclusively, so that all that remains of the secondary is a microbevel. Kinda par for the course with scandis, but I'll also do that with Kabars, CRKT Pilar & a Fiskars brush axe.
Great video! For anyone looking to try freehand sharpening: use a marker and practice on a butter knife or even a chisel. You should always be able to 'saw' through paper even after a coarse grit. Have a great day!
Hello Pete, I’m fairly new to your channel but have been watching quite a few of your videos. I’m also in the market for a sharpener and this and your other video on sharpeners have been very helpful. I just wanted to say thank you for all the information and the hard work. I have enjoyed your blend of information and personality, I also appreciate how you don’t talk down to the viewer. Anyhow, thanks again, and have a great day sir.
@VOIDVIDS This vid is a great tutorial. Other very helpful vids are by knifekrazy, knifeguy (Brian the tech guy at KME), and by KME. All are here on RUclips. Enjoy your KME!!
I do a lot of cold work and polishing professionally.. mostly on glass but in general, it’s very similar to knife sharpening. Same grits, diamond pads, belts, compounds are common, ect. Admittedly, the glass works a little faster than modern steels but that’s about it.. no leather. I Usually use a cork belt or felt/compound there Couple notes.. in general, you don’t wanna skip grits. Your working the finer stone much harder than it’s meant to which causes premature wear and actually takes more work on your part. When you step through the grits, it’s actually incredible how little time it can take. For knives, I’ve got a worksharp.. basically a poor man’s version of the kme.. I’ve got no problem with a jig if it makes things easier and cleaner. Work smarter not harder! This is personal preference but I usually work up and down the blade making circular motions.. since I don’t take it to a mirror polish, I like the crosshatch pattern that results from this. I’ve just got the base three grits that come with the worksharp. 320, 600, ceramic (1500?). I’ll only use the 320 if adjusting the grind angle.. otherwise I’ll usually just do a cou light passes with the 600 the. Use the ceramic to get reasonably shiny. From there, I’ll increase the angle by 2 deg, go back to the 600 and give a couple light passes. Finish off with a couple more light passes from the ceramic. light passes.. I still want a little bit of bite.
That KME is a great tool. I think that or a similar tool is the only way to get k390 "all the way up" .. (unless your Outdoors55) You could try only down motion once you have formed a bur. . Especially with the strops.
Try adding a spring to either side of your stops to soften the impact on the pivot ball. Also, GripOMatic offers an upgrade rod-stone holder to allow longer stones and strops.
@@stevenlachance8576 It's impossible to get contact on more than 4" of stone on the KME. Even using the Gritomatic stone holder and 6" stones only allows you to use the middle 4" of the stone. It's just how the system is designed. It would require an entirely new design to accommodate 6" stones.
Great video. Thanks! I’ve had a KME for a while and enjoy it. This convinced me to splurge on the diamond film kit. I use a big pencil eraser under some running water to clean the gunk off the diamond stones. Works great.
I like using a 10x lighted loupe to check my edge progression and especially the tips. The 100 is preferred by me on reprofiling and agree that the Beast is too coarse. I go straight from a 1500 diamond stones to a strop to finish it to a slightly mirrored shave sharp work edge, Great review.
base does not come with every kit, don’t forget to oil the detents on the jaws, and !! if you wrap one layer of blue painters’ tape on the spine, it will solve the issues with the jaws not clamping well on many knives.
Hey bro . This is the route I had to go to get the mirror shine even . Fixed blade system for us knife nerds who like to take them apart and put a new edge on and make them better than they once were . It’s possible to take some budget knives and make them a lot better imo . I got a two sun Vandal and a ts255 today and the Vandal is incredible for the price it may as well say Reate because it feels like one . Didn’t modify or anything , about an hour into it it started doing the full hydraulic drop shut . I was hoping the Orion solaris would too but he blade isn’t heavy enough but it’s a joy to fidget with too but this vandal is stealing the show
Hi Pete! Love your work. Some advice on the oil. Don't! Please, Don't! Oil will reduce your cutting speed, AND bind the diamond stones - as I can see yours are. Better to just use a spray of water which is easy. Dry the stones before packing to prevent the base metal from gathering rust. If you really want to take it up a notch, use Lapping fluid for diamond stones. The film is much thinner than oil. I have a huge bottle of Trend Diamond Lapping Fluid - costs a little but I cannot see myself ever running out. It is not an oil, but a water soluble fluid, that will prevent rusting, binding, and allow better/faster cutting. Cheers! Also - you can get Spyderco ceramic stones for the KME too, in 3 grades. I like the resulting edge that ceramic gives for a working knife.
Chrs. Pete, enjoyed that. I got a KME but not used it for ages and it is a good system. I use stones and rods mainly as I usually go for convexed on them most times. ATB.
Great video, very informative. I’m looking forward to getting a KME and spending some mind clearing time sharpening some knives. Thanks for the great content!
This is great. Been using a Sharpmaker since they were invented. I'm okay with 15 degrees a side, but there are times I'd like to go 17 degrees. Really thought about the Work Sharp system you used to use, but then watched how you changed to the KME and it got me thinking. It definitely needs the larger knob and I like the travel stops you added. Thanks for this review/tutorial. I think I can justify the large cost difference between the KME and Work Sharp to get what appears to be a more rugged, easier to handle/use system.
@@BennyCFD Actually there is quite a difference. Appreciated only by people who have been sharpening at a high level of expertise. That would be the difference between a professional and a rank amateur.
Haven't watched in a while, oops, sorry, I usually do stuff by hand but as an older fella, not always possible with these old hands. Like this system a lot, if this helps anyone, I apply friction or hockey tape to prevent blade movement in jaws. A bit expensive but so are our blades, so worth it, use magnification for quick analysis of your work, helps with the learning process, thankyou Cedric,
I have had a Smith's kit and a Lansky kit sitting in the cupboard for ages. Both gave me less than stellar results in terms of sharpening...probably the user, not the tool. By weird coincidence I pulled them out a few days ago and started using the stones by hand instead of with the guide/s. The Lansky stones work well. I managed to convex parts of my Golok (4cm at the tip and 5 at the base) so that I could use it in other ways besides hacking things. I'm happy with the results, but hey, I'm easily pleased.
Try putting a couple layers of masking tape on each side of your blade, before tightening down your jaws. That should help keep the knife in place... It works for me.. Great video, thanks.
If your back nob is too loose it will pivot while you are trying to tighten the jaws, which can cause the tip of the knife to pivot up and stab you in the palm of your hand (lots of blood). Ask me how I know!! I suggest keeping the back knob pretty tight and start the sharpening with the knife handle on the right side. That way the weight of the handle will keep the blade tip from swinging upwards while you are tightening the jaws. Cheers.
I'm not jealous of Petes good looks, his wonderful family or his extensive knife collection. I'm jealous of the international contacts that allow him such a system while I struggle with my Lansky,
Maybe try the Worksharp precision adjust. It's only 50 usd and a similar system. I have one and it's been great for sharpening my folders and blades on multitools.
Good video Pete, very informative for any KME fan. You're probably "in too deep" with a full collection of KME stones, strops and films to consider upgrading to the next level but trust me, I think you should really consider stepping into the world of the Hapstone R2 or TSPROF K03. FYI, your KME stones and strops will also work on the Hapstone R2. I have (and extensively have used for many years) all of these systems, including the KME and honestly - it's a HUGE upgrade to get a Hapstone R2. You'll appreciate having one.
I built a base with a post for mine, also medical tape helps keep knife rom moving in the jaws, and I am tempted to use double sided tape on some knives.
Have you ever thought of doing a video comparing the KME knife sharpener to the Work Sharp Precision Adjustment sharpener? From what I can tell they work in similar ways, but I would be interested to see your thoughts on this sharpening system. Thanks!
Another great vid! I’m watching mainly to see what i can do to get more out of my KME and the first thing I’m going to try is the permanent marker to see if my clamp moves. Will update with my results hahaha
One thing you should have gone over was the stone thickness gauge, for using different thickness stones, and also maybe the pen knife jaw you can buy, for smaller knives.
The highest level of sharpening I currently care to go to is a 2000 grit ceramic stone, before stropping. That gives me a semi-mirror polish and produces a hair shaving sharp edge. I do want to retire my Lansky Diamond guided rod system and replace it with a KME someday, though...
Great video. I've followed your advice with great results. Wondering you have any advice on sharpening a tanto blade. Specifically, lining up the blade and jaws for both edges. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Or, if you have a video on it that I haven't been able to fine. Again, thank you for your great videos.
Long vid. If that Spyderco is a carter designed knife, then it’s worth preserving, carter makes very good knives, and his design is solid. I too sharpen, and have less experience than you but still over 100 on each of my systems, although my tormek mostly does scissors, chisels and axes and the occasional fillet knife if I want a toothy edge. I also have a we and a Tsprof k03, the we is mostly collecting dust now and I will sell, although I loved it before I got curios about the Tsprof, I am now thinking about a grid viva… Anyway my only comment for you would be to clean the edge of the knife between changing of grits to prevent cross contamination, especially when using strops. Keep up the good work and stay sharp!
I went the cheap route and bought an Amazon knock off that uses edge pro sized stones. I bought high quality silicon carbide stones up to 8000 grit. Love the results. I think I messed up my strop with that green stuff. I think I’ll try a new one with the CBN emulsion. I’m also curious about the CBN stones. It’s nice to see someone else’s process and ideas. It looks like you press harder than I do. I’ll try putting some more pressure as I go. One thing I notice is that I quickly don’t feel or see a burr even under a microscope at 1000+ grit.
You can use olive oil on your strop to get the green compound removed. Just rub a thick layer on and let it sit for a few minutes and wipe clean. Might take a couple rounds if it’s really loaded up. Won’t hurt the leather at all.
Also I meant to ask -- when first sharpening a ~20° factory-edge knife to 17° mirror polish, how long does it take you all in all? Assuming average-good steel (D2, S35VN,M390) , average length (2.5-3.5") and usual factory inconsistencies on heel and tip? I ask because I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or if it's normal that it usually takes me around 2 hours with the 50 grit beast. I raise a good burr on the belly within the first 15 minutes or so, but then the heel and tip always seem to take forever.
That's because the angle reduces as you get away from the centre and out to the ends. Working on a smaller angle means you're having to remove more steel to get to the apex, so it will take longer to get there.
Thanks for the detailed review on the KME, it will be interesting to see how the worksharp precision adjust compares! On a related note: be getting a review of the K390 delica?
Now this is a review! Our Brother from down under spent years and a 1,000 uses to get us good information. Question 1. Have you replaced any parts of the system due to wear? Question 2. Have you experimented with different stroke techniques and noted the differences of sharpness with said technique?
1: The little eye that holds the rod will need to swap soon. it falls out a bit. I have also replaced the 1500, 600 and 300 stones once each and twice for the 300. 2. I cant tell much difference between doing little circles, angle swipes etc but some other guys say they can
Starting to think, I should use more pressure at times. I have the 3 spyderco stones for the kme, seems like they should give more polished than I get. Heard not to apply too much pressure otherwise could fold the edge
I do like the KME and I’m still fairly new to using it but it’s scratched the hell out of a couple of my knives, not sure what I’ve done wrong but a few are visually damaged now.
Great tutorial on the KME system. However, your statement that all the standard and diamond stones are the same thickness is incorrect. The diamond stones are 5mm thick while the standard stones are 7mm thick. My KME translucent ark is 6.5, the kangaroo strop is 5.5, and my Gritomatic cowhide strop is 7mm. That is why the KME thickness compensator attachment is a handy option to buy. Keep those great videos coming. Thanks.
Sadly, knives manufacturers puts even angle on both sides very seldom. I've got a sharpening system similar to that and electronic protractor to set the proper angle and almost every time I have to reshape the factory edge. Typically 17 degrees per side is kinda safe area 😎 Starting from 320 grid or 600 depends of egde condition, than 1000 & 2000. Finishing on the leather strop with diamont compound. Easy peasy lemon squeezy 😉😁 Thanks for sharing Your knowledge 👍🔥
Great indepth vid! Really appreciate it. You covered everything very well. Could you please tell me what the thread size is for the replacement know you used or where you got it?
What do you think of the spyderco sharp maker? It only does 15/20 angles and wouldn't be quite as precise obviously as the KME Sharpener. Any comments? I guess I am heading towards the KME as I get into some decent knives these days.
on my KME, the jaws never could literally "lock up" in both orientations. there was always one orientation in which the blade/jaws exhibited a little rotational "play" about the turning axis. i had the system replaced, plus parts direct from KME - but in the end only a fudge-job with some epoxy putty could provide a lock-up with no "give" whatsoever. i like my system, but there have been some engineering oversights. there's room to improve, still.
Great video Sir if I may make a suggestion the Gritomatic universal stone holder and stone thickness compensator are 2 must haves. They allow you to take advantage of other systems stones and even making your own stones or strops. I just got the stone thickness compensator and will be reviewing it soon, so far it’s well worth the $. Thanks and stay safe.
I also love sharpening & find it very relaxing. In fact, I probably have sharpened some knives that didn't actually need it, just do I could have one to sharpen, haha. 😝
The pivot ball keeps popping out because your after market stop on the rod pops it out - great video though - I bought one of these last week (and the handle) based on a previous video of yours and another - still getting used to it, but did put a wicked edge on old beat up pocket knife last night.
I have a really specific question... I'm thinking about getting a Spyderco for the first time. Specifically an American model. We've all had knives that were factory sharpened at whatever specific angle, only to find out that when you go to resharpen it, the factory edge degree is different towards the tip and/or back of the blade. I guess that means they were hand-sharpened in a sloppy way, but anyway... Do you find Spyderco knives to be factory-sharpened precisely? Or do you usually have to semi "reprofile" them to get the entire edge to the same angle?
24:25 Full Delica K390 Sharpening and stropping with the leather strop hones
49:26 full sharpening with the Spyderco K11 Kitchen Knife in Vg10
1:08:10 general thoughts and summary of whats good
LONGASS video I know and hopefully I’ve answered or shown any lingering questions you have about the system!
I'm here to learn ❤️
The kme sharpening system has been kind to me, and I'm grateful you've made this video
Thank you
(also I'm assuming you're not sick anymore =)
Looks like a good system, Interested in seeing your thoughts on the new system you mentioned you got a few videos ago.
I own the WORKSHARP PRECISION GUIDED SHARPENER, do you think it basically works the same as the KME sharpener. I also have different stones and gits from Gripmatic.
@@Cid_1 pg.g
Ppp
@@explorerextraordinaire5472 g
"A longer knob is essential"... -Pete 2021.
“Easy daddy, that’s enough. That’s all I can take” - also Pete 2021
That’s what she said.
Just watched this entire thing, beginning to end, while enjoying a beer and sharpening a couple knives on my new KME setup. I learned a few things and had a good time. Thanks!
Well done Pete! I’d just like to point out that the rubber coming loose in your jaws, and the nylon ball popping out are warranty parts. Lifetime guarantee buddy. BTW, the rubber coming loose has been addressed and isn’t happening on newer units. Great vid sir and that Nick Shabazz is a great guy and awesome friend huh? 👍
He definitely is! Good news on the jaws and the litte ball 🤩
To both you gentleman, have had my KME system going on 5-6 yrs now with tremendous results. I've sharpened upper hundreds of knives with incredible results. Going to slightly re-profile my mantra 2 today. I sharpen all my friends and families knives and have breathed new life into many many knives. Thank you KME. Critique/comment... Jaws rubber being corrected is great. When mine came out I used a hot glue gun in replacement to rubbers with great results. Actually holds some MEGA smooth surface knives better than the rubbers. Only wish...ONLY WISH (this system is still the best for 4"-under blades) would be the ability move pivot ball slightly to the left and right. Allowing me to maintain consistent angles all the way to the tip and hilt blade areas. Feels like with some blade designs in that 3.75-4" blades, that distance variance at the far ends changes the angle slightly and I've seen deeper bevels on the ends due to this variance. Some side to side movement in pivot "may" help with this? Iam no engeneer, may not be accurate or possible, just a suggestion. I don't know how I lived w/o this system and thank you again for giving my treasure chest of knives SOO much more dangerously sharp life. 🙏
Hi Kme. I'm just about to buy one of your sharpening systems here in the UK. Could you please clarify how to differentiate between the older model and the newer one? Thanks.
@@CedricAda The main problem with the "lifetime guarantee" for most product, is the shipping cost is on the customer.
In Canada, you end up paying 20$ or more to get your product "fixed for free".
With very great compagnie, you send them a picture and they send you the part (that's a real free fix).
As someone who bought a KME months ago but only used it once or twice, this video is a treat
I'm all about the lower angles and THIS review is the BEST one I've seen!!!
I have been sharpening knives for 60 years. Been doing it semi correctly for 40 years. /been getting better. Really enjoyed your video. Got some film from fiber optics guy and you gave me the idea how to use it. Since I am not a spring chicken, I've learned thru trial and error. I strive for perfection as you do. Across the pond ... keep up the good work.
Without a doubt, this is the best KME video on the internet. I wish it had been available when I was learning the system!
I watched this again as I was setting up my new Kme. Very helpful. I sharpened a couple old beaters and they came out great. Thanks again for the great video.
Ya know, I’ve watched this video 3x times now. I’ve been collecting knives for a few years now and wanted to upgrade my sharpening system, but wanted to make sure that I’m not wasting my money on a subpar system. Especially the KME. It’s not inexpensive. But I think I’m going to pull the trigger on the KME Gold system. I see it’s available on Amazon now. Which makes it much easier to purchase, honestly.
Just wanted to say thanks again for taking the time to share this video. I probably would have went with a WorkSharp if you hadn’t uploaded this 😂.
Much appreciated, brother. Thanks again for all you do for ya knife guys
I've been using a KME for years (and an inferior Lansky for years before), and I still learned a lot from this excellent video. Thanks for making time to share your hard-won expeience, Pete.
I use a drop or two of Windex on the diamond stones as a lube while sharpening as was recommended by I don't remember who. The liquid captures the metal being shaved off. Every once in a while, while working, you just use a rag or paper towel to remove the sludge from the blade and diamond stone surface. Might not matter in your shed but if you're working in the kitchen like me you don't want metal filings to get into everything. But most importantly the metal particles are small enough and light enough to inhale while working closely on the KME. My belief is that those particles can't be good for you if you sharpen a substantial number of knives on a regular basis. Don't know if you have Windex (a glass window cleaner) in Australia. And yes, changing fingers while applying the emulsions to the strop isn't overthinking it, it's the right call! Great show!
Fantastic content. Sharpened a knife on my own kme while listening to you sharpen a knife on your kme.
Unifying moment haha
I've been watching your videos for about 3 years now, and I love them. I actually got my KME kit on your recommendation, and I absolutely loved it. The only issue I kept having was the fact that the knifes ALWAYS shifted in the jaws, no matter how tight I clamped them... I ended up purchasing the TSPROF K03 a couple months back, and their clamps are way more secure, in my opinion
I truly reef down hard and generally do okay, but I hear positive things about the tsprof. Quite a bit more costly though it seems?
@@CedricAda the K03 (the big professional one) is about triple the price of the KME... But boy is it worth it. I cannot sing the praises enough. I did have to modify the stone holder a bit to accept my KME stones, but other than that, it has enabled me to put incredible edges on my knives that I could not achieve on the KME (and in a shorter amount of time ~15 mins/blade). I've actually started a small side gig doing restorations & sharpening, and my clients have noticed the difference as well.
use a wrap or two of blue painter’s tape on the spine
Had my KME for about a year and a half, gotten the basic kit plus lapping films and strops, and I love it! Went from little sharpening skill to razor sharp mirror edges.
The black line along the clamp is a habit I need to get into.
What are you putting the lapping films on?
@@mr.b111 each grit comes with a glass block to put them on.
I'll say that putting black electric tape on the knife where the jaws clamp will greatly reduce any shifting of the blade during sharpening. I do it all the time.
I have a cheap system similar to this and the jaws aren’t great, going to try this out thanks =)
same, but with masking tape. Added benefit of not chewing up the finish on a blade's face if there happens to be anything abrasive caught in the jaws.
I use a small piece of paper towel between the jaws and the knife on my lansky. Seems to lock the blade in place better than tape beacause there's no adhesive to smush and slide around. Also prevents scratches very well.
Got my KME last night.. Just got done sharpening my Osborne 940 in M4 . The results are crazy sharp. So sharp that I wiped the blade done with a paper towel and cut myself!!! Holy crap I’m gonna lose a finger. I didn’t even get all of my accessories yet. That was with the diamond stones 140 through 1500 and my hand strop
Thank you sir. This was a great help getting started. Had some great result on my Stretch 2
I finish all my edges with a 0.1 micron strop which is equivalent to 200,000 grit lol, using a different finger for each emulsion is what you should be doing. Only thing I could recommend is wiping the blade with a cloth after each grit to remove any grit residue from the previous grit. Great video 👍
Yeah I scratched my Benchmade by not wiping the blade clean between grits...
Can you whittle a hair?
@@1986subway never tried honestly but it wouldn't surprise me lol
200,000 grit...................LOLOLOLOL get real dude. A straight razor sharpened to 10,000 grit and a strop will get you sharpness to cleanly shave your face. in terms of usefulness and utility do you think you're really going to get at 2000,000...............Hmmmmmmmm? nothing
Very thorough review. You do the best thorough review on RUclips. Some of us appreciate all the ends and outs of a product good or bad. Thanks for helping your viewers make a informed decision. This is better than a five star on Amazon!!!
You said it’s sort of hard for you to get a hair shaving edge compared to free hand sharpening. I do both, on water stones and on a Lansky guided rod sharpener with diamond stones. What I learned to be working to get a razor sharp edge (as well as a polished one) is to apply less pressure with the strops and don’t overdo it while stropping. Applying a lot of pressure to the leather makes the apex a little round again because the material is softer and forms sort of a concave shape, resulting in a convex shape on the edge.
Also pulling the sharpened edge softly through some softer wood often helps to remove the last bit of a burr on the edge.
Just my two cents… pardon my english, not a native speaker.
Peter, thank you for the great demonstration. I love your videos and watch anything you put out. I have been using 3M lapping films with great success. I put a mirror finish on all my knives. I love that look and the performance they bring. 🔪🎸
Thanks Pete! Thorough, and thoroughly informative. I started out hand sharpening but for the knives I really love, it’s gotta be a guided system like this. Gives me confidence that I will always improve my knife, rather than risk ruining it.
The internal threading for the knob is 1/4"-20
McMaster-Carr has a few acrylic ones that work.
Nice overview Pete. I love my KME and find using it to be almost therapeutic.
Thank you!
Thank you so much!
Thank you. This demonstration was valuable. Good work, sir.
Beautifully done indeed! I especially like the little tip about doing the line on the blade below the jaws. Have a beautiful day brother stay safe and healthy 😘👍
Pete, I'm so glad you did this video. I was actually thinking annoy doing the same thing for my Wicked Edge Go after about 200 knives, but I haven't decided yet. I have a couple new strops coming this week to further improve my mirrors.
I love how clear you are in explaining things, I love your sense of humor, & I'm so glad you're part of the knife community! Keep it up my man! 😃
You have done 1,000 blades. Good Lord. That seems like a full time job mate. I do maybe 7 kitchen blades every two weeks cause my wife won't keep the edge off the bambo board. Plus I do my carry stuff every few weeks just for fun. Geez you cut a lot. But I think you turned me to the KME about three years ago.
The 50 grit beast actually gets the most use in my setup. Generally, when I sharpen a folder for the first time, I reprofile the edge to the most acute angle I can possibly get. I'll even resort to tricks like clamping the handle instead of the blade so the stones are in no danger of hitting the clamp.
While I do own the convexing rod, in retrospect I could just freehand something if I wanted a convex. At least it's one of the cheaper accessories!
The scissor sharpening rig though, oh yes. There's a perverse joy to be had in getting a mirror edge on a nice pair of shears.
Just wondering what do you consider to be an "acute angle?" 17 degrees? 15? Thanks
@@kurtglo Afraid I don't keep track of the precise angles, but on the KME, if you run the risk of 'sharpening' the clamp as well as your knife, that's fairly acute in my books. Naturally, this varies a lot depending on the thickness and breadth of the blade in question. Freehanding, I'll sometimes go as far as to sharpen the primary bevel almost exclusively, so that all that remains of the secondary is a microbevel. Kinda par for the course with scandis, but I'll also do that with Kabars, CRKT Pilar & a Fiskars brush axe.
Can't believe I'm just seeing this...great work as always sir.
Great video! For anyone looking to try freehand sharpening: use a marker and practice on a butter knife or even a chisel. You should always be able to 'saw' through paper even after a coarse grit.
Have a great day!
Hello Pete, I’m fairly new to your channel but have been watching quite a few of your videos. I’m also in the market for a sharpener and this and your other video on sharpeners have been very helpful. I just wanted to say thank you for all the information and the hard work. I have enjoyed your blend of information and personality, I also appreciate how you don’t talk down to the viewer. Anyhow, thanks again, and have a great day sir.
I just ordered this based on you always using it so I am so stoked to have a good tutorial!
@VOIDVIDS This vid is a great tutorial. Other very helpful vids are by knifekrazy, knifeguy (Brian the tech guy at KME), and by KME. All are here on RUclips. Enjoy your KME!!
I do a lot of cold work and polishing professionally.. mostly on glass but in general, it’s very similar to knife sharpening. Same grits, diamond pads, belts, compounds are common, ect. Admittedly, the glass works a little faster than modern steels but that’s about it.. no leather. I Usually use a cork belt or felt/compound there
Couple notes.. in general, you don’t wanna skip grits. Your working the finer stone much harder than it’s meant to which causes premature wear and actually takes more work on your part. When you step through the grits, it’s actually incredible how little time it can take.
For knives, I’ve got a worksharp.. basically a poor man’s version of the kme.. I’ve got no problem with a jig if it makes things easier and cleaner. Work smarter not harder! This is personal preference but I usually work up and down the blade making circular motions.. since I don’t take it to a mirror polish, I like the crosshatch pattern that results from this. I’ve just got the base three grits that come with the worksharp. 320, 600, ceramic (1500?). I’ll only use the 320 if adjusting the grind angle.. otherwise I’ll usually just do a cou light passes with the 600 the. Use the ceramic to get reasonably shiny. From there, I’ll increase the angle by 2 deg, go back to the 600 and give a couple light passes. Finish off with a couple more light passes from the ceramic. light passes.. I still want a little bit of bite.
That KME is a great tool. I think that or a similar tool is the only way to get k390 "all the way up" .. (unless your Outdoors55) You could try only down motion once you have formed a bur. . Especially with the strops.
Try adding a spring to either side of your stops to soften the impact on the pivot ball. Also, GripOMatic offers an upgrade rod-stone holder to allow longer stones and strops.
Yes recommend the gritomatic stone holder strongly. KME needs to do some constant engineering ypgrades, a longer stone would be a good thing.
@@stevenlachance8576 It's impossible to get contact on more than 4" of stone on the KME. Even using the Gritomatic stone holder and 6" stones only allows you to use the middle 4" of the stone. It's just how the system is designed. It would require an entirely new design to accommodate 6" stones.
Great video. Thanks! I’ve had a KME for a while and enjoy it. This convinced me to splurge on the diamond film kit. I use a big pencil eraser under some running water to clean the gunk off the diamond stones. Works great.
thats a great idea!!
@@CedricAda the pencil erasers really work amazingly well
I love my KME. It's one I can really sharpen with.
My final finishing stroke is to run the edge through a piece of cork a couple of times. It seems to complete the burr removal.
I like using a 10x lighted loupe to check my edge progression and especially the tips. The 100 is preferred by me on reprofiling and agree that the Beast is too coarse. I go straight from a 1500 diamond stones to a strop to finish it to a slightly mirrored shave sharp work edge, Great review.
It is therapeutic. They also recommend oiling the detent on the jaws from time to time.
Great video Pete! I learned some good tips in this even though I've been using a KME for a couple of years already!
base does not come with every kit, don’t forget to oil the detents on the jaws,
and !! if you wrap one layer of blue painters’ tape on the spine, it will solve the issues with the jaws not clamping well on many knives.
Hey bro . This is the route I had to go to get the mirror shine even . Fixed blade system for us knife nerds who like to take them apart and put a new edge on and make them better than they once were . It’s possible to take some budget knives and make them a lot better imo . I got a two sun Vandal and a ts255 today and the Vandal is incredible for the price it may as well say Reate because it feels like one . Didn’t modify or anything , about an hour into it it started doing the full hydraulic drop shut . I was hoping the Orion solaris would too but he blade isn’t heavy enough but it’s a joy to fidget with too but this vandal is stealing the show
Hi Pete! Love your work.
Some advice on the oil. Don't! Please, Don't!
Oil will reduce your cutting speed, AND bind the diamond stones - as I can see yours are. Better to just use a spray of water which is easy. Dry the stones before packing to prevent the base metal from gathering rust.
If you really want to take it up a notch, use Lapping fluid for diamond stones. The film is much thinner than oil. I have a huge bottle of Trend Diamond Lapping Fluid - costs a little but I cannot see myself ever running out. It is not an oil, but a water soluble fluid, that will prevent rusting, binding, and allow better/faster cutting. Cheers!
Also - you can get Spyderco ceramic stones for the KME too, in 3 grades. I like the resulting edge that ceramic gives for a working knife.
Chrs. Pete, enjoyed that. I got a KME but not used it for ages and it is a good system. I use stones and rods mainly as I usually go for convexed on them most times. ATB.
Great video, very informative. I’m looking forward to getting a KME and spending some mind clearing time sharpening some knives.
Thanks for the great content!
Using small "O" rings on the insides of the stops toward the spherical bearing will soften the stop and reduce the popping out problem.
This is great. Been using a Sharpmaker since they were invented. I'm okay with 15 degrees a side, but there are times I'd like to go 17 degrees. Really thought about the Work Sharp system you used to use, but then watched how you changed to the KME and it got me thinking. It definitely needs the larger knob and I like the travel stops you added. Thanks for this review/tutorial. I think I can justify the large cost difference between the KME and Work Sharp to get what appears to be a more rugged, easier to handle/use system.
I highly doubt you or anyone else could tell the difference between a 15 or 17 degree per side
@@BennyCFD Actually there is quite a difference. Appreciated only by people who have been sharpening at a high level of expertise. That would be the difference between a professional and a rank amateur.
Haven't watched in a while, oops, sorry, I usually do stuff by hand but as an older fella, not always possible with these old hands. Like this system a lot, if this helps anyone, I apply friction or hockey tape to prevent blade movement in jaws. A bit expensive but so are our blades, so worth it, use magnification for quick analysis of your work, helps with the learning process, thankyou Cedric,
Very cool and informative video! Thank you for taking the time to help us🎉 I learned so much today, the points in between are so helpful
After watching the entire video, I will never again complain about paying $45 for a professional sharpening
I used the "Beast" to help a friend who broke the tip off of his knife.... Worked great for reprofiling....
I have had a Smith's kit and a Lansky kit sitting in the cupboard for ages. Both gave me less than stellar results in terms of sharpening...probably the user, not the tool. By weird coincidence I pulled them out a few days ago and started using the stones by hand instead of with the guide/s. The Lansky stones work well. I managed to convex parts of my Golok (4cm at the tip and 5 at the base) so that I could use it in other ways besides hacking things. I'm happy with the results, but hey, I'm easily pleased.
i love your kme related videos! got my first mirror edge polish on my esee 4 using suggestions from your recent newtron video
Try putting a couple layers of masking tape on each side of your blade, before tightening down your jaws.
That should help keep the knife in place... It works for me..
Great video, thanks.
If your back nob is too loose it will pivot while you are trying to tighten the jaws, which can cause the tip of the knife to pivot up and stab you in the palm of your hand (lots of blood). Ask me how I know!!
I suggest keeping the back knob pretty tight and start the sharpening with the knife handle on the right side. That way the weight of the handle will keep the blade tip from swinging upwards while you are tightening the jaws. Cheers.
I'm not jealous of Petes good looks, his wonderful family or his extensive knife collection. I'm jealous of the international contacts that allow him such a system while I struggle with my Lansky,
Maybe try the Worksharp precision adjust. It's only 50 usd and a similar system. I have one and it's been great for sharpening my folders and blades on multitools.
“I like his haircut.”
You'll get all the kme stuff through Zanvak here in Australia
Good video Pete, very informative for any KME fan. You're probably "in too deep" with a full collection of KME stones, strops and films to consider upgrading to the next level but trust me, I think you should really consider stepping into the world of the Hapstone R2 or TSPROF K03. FYI, your KME stones and strops will also work on the Hapstone R2. I have (and extensively have used for many years) all of these systems, including the KME and honestly - it's a HUGE upgrade to get a Hapstone R2. You'll appreciate having one.
I built a base with a post for mine, also medical tape helps keep knife rom moving in the jaws, and I am tempted to use double sided tape on some knives.
Have you ever thought of doing a video comparing the KME knife sharpener to the Work Sharp Precision Adjustment sharpener? From what I can tell they work in similar ways, but I would be interested to see your thoughts on this sharpening system. Thanks!
Another great vid!
I’m watching mainly to see what i can do to get more out of my KME and the first thing I’m going to try is the permanent marker to see if my clamp moves. Will update with my results hahaha
The two knives didn’t noticeably move this time round so didn’t have to re-adjust according to the line… good results this time around anyways
Thanks for doing this video. I had questions about the KME that you answered. 👍
One thing you should have gone over was the stone thickness gauge, for using different thickness stones, and also maybe the pen knife jaw you can buy, for smaller knives.
i did show the penknife jaw i believe earlier inthe vid but its a long one so I cant remember where exactly hehe
Quiet Friday at work, thanks for keeping me company!
Now that Worksharp has jumped in everyone can get in on this.
The highest level of sharpening I currently care to go to is a 2000 grit ceramic stone, before stropping. That gives me a semi-mirror polish and produces a hair shaving sharp edge. I do want to retire my Lansky Diamond guided rod system and replace it with a KME someday, though...
Great video. I've followed your advice with great results. Wondering you have any advice on sharpening a tanto blade. Specifically, lining up the blade and jaws for both edges. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Or, if you have a video on it that I haven't been able to fine. Again, thank you for your great videos.
KME has a jig for sharpening axes and this is where the 50 gritstone is handy for repairing an edge.
Reprofiled an axe on the KME with the 50. Glad I have it although I would probably like a 25 or a 10 even better.
Long vid. If that Spyderco is a carter designed knife, then it’s worth preserving, carter makes very good knives, and his design is solid.
I too sharpen, and have less experience than you but still over 100 on each of my systems, although my tormek mostly does scissors, chisels and axes and the occasional fillet knife if I want a toothy edge.
I also have a we and a Tsprof k03, the we is mostly collecting dust now and I will sell, although I loved it before I got curios about the Tsprof, I am now thinking about a grid viva…
Anyway my only comment for you would be to clean the edge of the knife between changing of grits to prevent cross contamination, especially when using strops.
Keep up the good work and stay sharp!
Great review, thanks Pete!
Thanks, excellent and comprehensive video that gave pertinent information.
I went the cheap route and bought an Amazon knock off that uses edge pro sized stones. I bought high quality silicon carbide stones up to 8000 grit. Love the results. I think I messed up my strop with that green stuff. I think I’ll try a new one with the CBN emulsion. I’m also curious about the CBN stones.
It’s nice to see someone else’s process and ideas. It looks like you press harder than I do. I’ll try putting some more pressure as I go. One thing I notice is that I quickly don’t feel or see a burr even under a microscope at 1000+ grit.
You can use olive oil on your strop to get the green compound removed. Just rub a thick layer on and let it sit for a few minutes and wipe clean. Might take a couple rounds if it’s really loaded up. Won’t hurt the leather at all.
Pete! You are my spirit animal!
how many sharpening stones have you gone through with this system?
Also I meant to ask -- when first sharpening a ~20° factory-edge knife to 17° mirror polish, how long does it take you all in all? Assuming average-good steel (D2, S35VN,M390) , average length (2.5-3.5") and usual factory inconsistencies on heel and tip?
I ask because I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or if it's normal that it usually takes me around 2 hours with the 50 grit beast. I raise a good burr on the belly within the first 15 minutes or so, but then the heel and tip always seem to take forever.
That's because the angle reduces as you get away from the centre and out to the ends. Working on a smaller angle means you're having to remove more steel to get to the apex, so it will take longer to get there.
Thanks for the detailed review on the KME, it will be interesting to see how the worksharp precision adjust compares! On a related note: be getting a review of the K390 delica?
Now this is a review! Our Brother from down under spent years and a 1,000 uses to get us good information.
Question 1. Have you replaced any parts of the system due to wear?
Question 2. Have you experimented with different stroke techniques and noted the differences of sharpness with said technique?
1: The little eye that holds the rod will need to swap soon. it falls out a bit. I have also replaced the 1500, 600 and 300 stones once each and twice for the 300.
2. I cant tell much difference between doing little circles, angle swipes etc but some other guys say they can
@@CedricAda Cheers and know we all appreciate your long form videos!
Thanks Pete. I've been considering this for a while.
Starting to think, I should use more pressure at times. I have the 3 spyderco stones for the kme, seems like they should give more polished than I get. Heard not to apply too much pressure otherwise could fold the edge
The finger grooves on the wooden handle look like they should be in the other direction! What am I missing!
I do like the KME and I’m still fairly new to using it but it’s scratched the hell out of a couple of my knives, not sure what I’ve done wrong but a few are visually damaged now.
Great tutorial on the KME system. However, your statement that all the standard and diamond stones are the same thickness is incorrect. The diamond stones are 5mm thick while the standard stones are 7mm thick. My KME translucent ark is 6.5, the kangaroo strop is 5.5, and my Gritomatic cowhide strop is 7mm. That is why the KME thickness compensator attachment is a handy option to buy.
Keep those great videos coming. Thanks.
Sadly, knives manufacturers puts even angle on both sides very seldom. I've got a sharpening system similar to that and electronic protractor to set the proper angle and almost every time I have to reshape the factory edge. Typically 17 degrees per side is kinda safe area 😎 Starting from 320 grid or 600 depends of egde condition, than 1000 & 2000. Finishing on the leather strop with diamont compound. Easy peasy lemon squeezy 😉😁 Thanks for sharing Your knowledge 👍🔥
Great indepth vid! Really appreciate it. You covered everything very well. Could you please tell me what the thread size is for the replacement know you used or where you got it?
My plastic grommet also wore and I emailed kme, replaced without issue in the states that is.
What do you think of the spyderco sharp maker? It only does 15/20 angles and wouldn't be quite as precise obviously as the KME Sharpener. Any comments? I guess I am heading towards the KME as I get into some decent knives these days.
on my KME, the jaws never could literally "lock up" in both orientations. there was always one orientation in which the blade/jaws exhibited a little rotational "play" about the turning axis. i had the system replaced, plus parts direct from KME - but in the end only a fudge-job with some epoxy putty could provide a lock-up with no "give" whatsoever. i like my system, but there have been some engineering oversights. there's room to improve, still.
Thank you for the great video! Just received my KME and I’m watching all the how to’s. Where can I get the guide rod replacement knob?
Hardware store. Grab any knob with a 1/4-20 thread.
Would the 50 grit be good if you're repairing chips, or still the 100 or 140?
Nice video, I hope you will test the S45vn of the new paramilitary 2 because I saw on RUclips that the heat treatment was very soft like 56 HRC ...
Great video Sir if I may make a suggestion the Gritomatic universal stone holder and stone thickness compensator are 2 must haves. They allow you to take advantage of other systems stones and even making your own stones or strops. I just got the stone thickness compensator and will be reviewing it soon, so far it’s well worth the $. Thanks and stay safe.
You really should be squeezing the end of the jaws down tight while you're tightening the 3 wing knob. It helps tremendously.
If your table is not flat, you can not use your app like you do. You have to measure relative to the base of the KME.
You're absolutely right.........................
I bought a Lansky before buying a KME I like the Lansky, but wish I would have saved for a while and got the KME. I am saving for one now.
What angle do you think is best for d2 steel? And what finish gradation?
I also love sharpening & find it very relaxing. In fact, I probably have sharpened some knives that didn't actually need it, just do I could have one to sharpen, haha. 😝
Where can one obtain the "collars" with thumbscrews used on the long steel shaft?
The pivot ball keeps popping out because your after market stop on the rod pops it out - great video though - I bought one of these last week (and the handle) based on a previous video of yours and another - still getting used to it, but did put a wicked edge on old beat up pocket knife last night.
I have a really specific question... I'm thinking about getting a Spyderco for the first time. Specifically an American model. We've all had knives that were factory sharpened at whatever specific angle, only to find out that when you go to resharpen it, the factory edge degree is different towards the tip and/or back of the blade. I guess that means they were hand-sharpened in a sloppy way, but anyway...
Do you find Spyderco knives to be factory-sharpened precisely? Or do you usually have to semi "reprofile" them to get the entire edge to the same angle?
I've never encountered nor heard of a poorly ground/sharpened Spyderco, but you can also ask on Reddit or bladeforums and check consensus