One thing I’ve noticed with these systems is that the angles get shallower near the ends (tip and heel) of the blade. I’m not on the forums so I don’t know if this has been discussed to death already, but I did the math, and it’s not insignificant. If you are putting a 20 degree edge on a 3” blade (with the blade clamped exactly in the middle) the edge is about 0.75 degrees shallower at the tip and heel than the middle. It’s worse with bigger blades. This is because the arm has to “reach” farther out to contact the edges farther from the clamp. Imagine standing a foot from the kitchen counter and touching the edge right in front of you versus the edge 3 feet to either side. The angle of your arm changes. The longer the blade is (or farther from center it’s clamped), the bigger the variation. If you clamped a 3” blade all the way at one end (or clamped a 6” blade in the middle) the edge will vary by over 2.5 degrees from tip (or heel) to center. Notes: These numbers are for a straight edge. Since most blades have some belly, the differences in angle will vary. Systems that hold the edge farther from the mounting point of the arm will have less variation. You can use your angle finder to measure the angle at various points along the edge to see for yourself. I don’t know, maybe everybody knows this and nobody cares?
Technically not correct. While it does "math out" and seem like it is changing it actually does not. Years ago somebody did some CAD videos showing it and perfectly explaining it but for the life of me I can't find it. I did find one by Simple Little Life (v=UjoTLYsKG9k) that kind of explains it.
WS precision adjust elite works just fine for the $. I have done everything from touch up/polish on a Kershaw Leek all the way to complete repair/reprofile of a 6in survival knife (that took a couple of hours). Only issue is if you try to go too acutely angled on certain small blades you end up grinding away on the clamp. It has some size limitations but not many and is easily worth the money. It does make for razor sharp clean edges. Recommend getting a separate large paddle strop as well and you’ll be fine
Yeah the only problem I have with mine is it really doesn't work on something like a Becker Combat Bowie, it's just too big for the unit. Works great on your standard kitchen and pocket knives though, which is honestly what I use the most by like a wide margin.
I also recommend getting a clamp stand to help prevent vertical movement. I also like using lapping film for high to mirror polish. Has been my main sharpening system for a few month and have enjoyed it
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night ruclips.net/user/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
This is the only knife channel to which I have stayed subscribe over the years. Honest, informed and incredibly entertaining, it never fails to deliver the goods. This video is a perfect example. Still, I think these sharpeners are absurdly overpriced, the TSProf being the only one that costs more than $15 (US) to make. A feature that would really improve them would be a screw/knob to adjust the angle with precision rather than making you use one hand to position the guide and the other to tighten the knob, all the while having to balance the angle cube. And the fact that the width of the blade changes the angle of incidence (as you pointed out) so you can't set it and then sharpen different knives in succession knowing you have the angle dialed in is really counterproductive. And to spend $300-500 and not be able to sharpen your large kitchen knives just seems a waste. 4 Harbor Freight belt sanders ($240) (or spend a bit more for quality machines), 4 Surgi Sharp angle guides ($60), 20 Trizact belts (5 each of 80, 30, 16 and 6 microns) ($100), and a 1x30 inch leather strop belt ($20) will give you guided angles and perfect edges on 100's of knives for about $420! Then, if you really need 'polished edges' buy a knock-off guided sharpener and some plates and lapping film for a total investment that is still less than $500. And if you are willing to change belts instead of having 4 grits on 4 machines ready and waiting that cost comes down to about $195. Just something to consider as, for those who haven't used angle-guide sharpeners, they should understand that the process is extremely time-consuming. A belt sander system will also allow you to sharpen loppers, shears, lawnmower blades etc. And with a single belt sander system has a footprint no bigger than the KME.
Also I think it would be worth keeping a Worksharp around for sharpening recurves. The narrow abrasives are capable of getting into most of those curves.
with venev ursa which a set from extra coarse to ultra fine and produces crazy sharp edges and super nice polish on the edge for only $110. might seem like a lot but these stones last a while
I have a handful of systems including the Spyderco Sharpmaker and an old lansky, WS field sharpener (keep in my truck). Got the WS Elite a year ago and added the aftermarket support. Still love it. Also have the WS Ken Onion system with the blade attachment. Started freehand with Naniwa stones. Did okay but wanted to go back to a fixed angle with higher quality. Got the TS Prof Kadet Pro and added Atoma 140 and a full set of Venev resin bonded Dimond and the L adapters so I can center the blade with both clamps on pocket knives and add an inch for wide blades. ABSOLUTELY LOVE it! Hands down most versatile and can do a knife in half the time as the WS because of the larger stones. Like someone else mentioned I am keeping the WS for recurve blades with the smaller stones. Great video!
Thanks Pete - more great info based on actual use and practise. Most of my sharpening gear is either Lanksy or Worksharp and have had no real problems with either. Most of my gear is several years old (well some bits are over 20 years old) and a bit basic compared to the newer rigs. After 35+ years of knives the absolute best advice I can give is practise, practise, practise. Get an old knife or two and practise. Get to know how your system works to get the best out of it. Sharp blades all.
Food for thought with the Worksharp: The Worksharp's thinner stones are quite helpful for dealing with deeper recurves without investing in additional rounded stones for the other systems. It still isn't going to take care of an aggressive karambit, but that's just the nature of fixed angle sharpeners in general. I've sharpened up to 8" chef knives on the Worksharp as well. You don't get the whole stone's throw out toward the tip, but it gets the job done. Depending on the spine width of a meat cleaver, it might not fit in the smaller jaws of it, but other kitchen knives are all good as their spine thickness is considerably thinner. Meat cleavers are a bit of a niche product though. They're not precision instruments, they're designed to hack through bone, so even if you get them laser sharp, that edge won't last long. There's a reason why most of them have a hole out toward the tip-side; it's to hang it up alongside your pans since they're not dangerously sharp. With most modern butchery being done at grocery stores or plants, meat cleavers are becoming less common or needed in homes, at least here in the US. Lastly, I like the Worksharp for causal sharpening, as I use it more often in a handheld manner. Hold the back of the system with my left hand, actuate the arm with my right. Allows me to chill on the couch and reprofile rather than being tethered to a table or workbench. Trying to do that with the KME is a bit unwieldy (as covered), and I've also had a knife blade or two swing toward me due to the system pivoting on the base.
I can only speak to the KME in this group, as I have only used a KME, a Lansky, and a Wicked Sharp. Hated the WS and sold it almost immediately (for a profit.) Used the Lamsky for years and it did an adequate job. The KME was a whole other dimension in knife sharpening. It is easy to get a razor sharp edge with the KME. I bought the full kit plus the Japanese Water Stones. As great as the KME is, the KME support (Brian) is exponentially better than the KME device itself. When a couple of parts failed, KME sent upgraded replacements immediately with no questions asked. I highly recommend the KME. I feel it has been well worth the price. Great video Pete!! I'm up to 4 Akubra hats now!!!!
Great video! Something to keep in mind is that when you swing any of these systems over a wide range of angles in the horizontal direction you again are changing the bevel angle. I use and EdgePro. In the $200 price range, One advantage of the EdgePro is that the spine stop is adjustable, so you can keep the bevel angle pretty constant by adjusting the stop distance. The downside is that it doesn’t clamp the system, so you have to watch to make sure that you are keeping the knife flat against the surface. Also it really doesn’t go below a 10deg half bevel angle, so if you are looking to do a hard knife at a really narrow angle, this system won’t work on it.
Excellent showdown! So glad you included the non-fixed-angle sharpeners too - was wondering what happened to the Tormek and nice to see it again. It's been fun to watch your journey of sharpening devices over the years and learning about each one. Also fun to see the pups grow up. Thanks for sharing!
The model I have used is the Work Sharp Precision Adjust. I’ve only had mine for a month or two, but here are a couple of things I’ve learned (in addition to what Cedric said): When you clamp a large-ish knife or tool in the holder, the plastic base becomes really front-heavy and can topple over. So I’ve started clamping the base to my table with a couple of C-clamps. I do this even for a small pocket knife, to give the whole rig stability. The knife-holding clamp is just help to the base with small magnets, and it can have a good deal of up-and-down play when you’re rubbing the sharpening plates on the blade. It really helps to buy and use one of the small after-market braces that go under the clamp arm, or you could make one yourself easily if you prefer. If you have a knife too big for the clamp, such as a machete, you can use the aforementioned C-clamps to clamp the blade to a table, or clamp it in a bench vise, and use the sharpening plates for freehand sharpening. An angle finder, as Cedric demonstrates, is a big help for putting the diamond plates at the right angle.
Really glad to have your perspective from experience. I just got the Work Sharp Precision Adjust, which seems to work well, but I'm new to the knife sharpening game, need to put in more time--it's close, detailed work requiring care. Thanks very much!
Love my KME used to have the old version of the worksharp wasn’t a fan ended up giving it away though hopefully the new versions are better. I also agree that getting a digital angle guide is a must for anyone that uses/sharpens a collection of different knives.
I own like 3 dozen natural water stones and bought a tsprof because sharpening modern powder metallurgy stainless steels on a waterstone is my personal nightmare.
bought the basic worksharp model couple of months ago. while it has some quirks and problems - mainly the clamp getting ground off a bit when sharpening small blades and how acute of an angle you can put on those; this system has singlehandedly turned an anxiety inducing ordeal into a pleasant walk in a park of a sharpening experience
FYI ... On a 7" blade centered up in the grip under the pivot, the effective grind angle will gradually drop by 2º as you approach the tip & heal of the knife. Example 17º set-up at center, drops to 15º at 3.5" off center. To mitigate the issue use a fixed angle sharpening rig with the pivot on a rail, equal to or longer than the blade you are sharpening.
This is actually not true. On a straight edge the angle on the sharpening bevel stays the same even if the blade is infinitely long. If you look at the system from the front or top this feels quite unintuitive, but if you look from the tip along the edge you will notice that the angle is the same. Think about how the angle of the sharpening stone from the top of the bevel to the edge also changes when you bring the arm towards the tip. Try calculate some trigonometry and you will see that the sharpening angle will only change if the edge curves.
As some others said what about the edge pro and wicked edge? Especially the edge pro apex, it's the original of all these designs and is definitely better value and more extensible than that worksharp. Great video though and the tsprof looks nice. 🍻
I am really glad you posted this. Wanted to see a comparison of different systems. A good friend is deciding to buy a system so will send this link along.
Just sold my kme in order to pay for a tsprof kadet pro, also decided to spring for the hapstone premium cbn stone set. More money than I'd like to have spent but I do believe I'll have it all for a very long time
When I bought my Ruxin cheapy, I didn't buy any stones with it. I bought the nicer stones elsewhere, and that's where most of the cost from the kit comes from.
have not regretted buying a wicked edge. will always wish it could do it by feel. i had never heard the last one you showed. part of choosing the WE for me was sharpening bigger fixed blades.
Great helpful comparison video! I trust WorkSharp to make a decent sharpener. I have one of the more delux version of their belt sharpeners I use for my cleavers and scissors and blender blades and larger tools. It’s great! I have been using DMT hand sharpening for all my pocket knives. I think I convexed a couple of them on a bad day though. I’m shopping for a fixed angle sharpening system. This is a great help. Thanks. I do also use water stones for my kitchen knives because I need the capacity to work on larger knives. The larger size and better feedback make it easier to hold the angle and freehand sharpen.
Thanks for making this video. I already have a cheapo fixed angle system but the fundamentals you mention really go a long way on any sharpening system.
The KME is awesome. If I had unlimited funds I would get the TS Prof for my larger knives. Even a decent sized chef knife will have varying angles from tip to heel using the KME if the knife position isn’t adjusted. The larger radius of the TS would minimize this.
I've got a Wicked Edge Gen 3 that I bought off eBay used for $700 and added like $250 worth of accessories and a Work Sharp electric Ken Onion edition sharpener for about $150 and added literally every extra accessory you can buy including belts and that came out to about $300. Both of them handle any sharpening job I've ever come across. Wicked edge for pocket and kitchen knives. Worksharp for anything used outdoor related like axes, swords or when I have a TON of knives to sharpen quickly.
There are folks making accessories for the worksharp that ups its game a bit. Got a 'kickstand' that braces the arm up and really helps when you're going after it on a reprofile or something. Also universal stone holders, I haven't tried mine yet but it should help a lot on one of the problems with the original stones and that's they aren't tall enough to get back into the corner of some blades. That said I really like mine, wish they came out with the 'heavy duty' version, if I had the time I'd make one.
@@MrNiceGuy80x5 I couldn't say. You know how these things are, you can spend as much as you want on any of them. Start buying top dog stones and the entry prices drop down the cost sheet.
If you are halfway competent with tools you can make a KME base as a DIY project. Same with the Worksharp. You can stabilize it on your own. Save money to buy more stones.
Regarding the Worksharp: Get the basic kit for 50€ (+/-) and buy replacement parts when the honing surface gets used up. Especially if you own a leather strap anyway.
I have a lansky, wicked edge go, kme, and some other cheapo things along with a very small selection of benchstones. Anymore I don't use the guided sharpeners unless I let a blade go really dull and damaged, or it came from the factory with a wonky edge. For touchups and maintenance I use a dmt extra fine and a spyderco ultra fine ceramic. I also use a dmt diafold coarse/fine for small pocket knives like slipjoints. If it needs extra work I find myself using the kme most out of all the systems I have. Most of the time I just don't feel like getting the case out and setting it up. I'll grab another knife before I do that and I'll end up with a dozen really dull knives before I have to spend an afternoon sharpening. So a quick run on a bench hone saves me a lot of headache.
I really like my work sharp precision adjust but I always recommend that people also buy a brace for the jaws if they get one. The way the jaws flex under sharpening is it's biggest weakness and after getting a brace I found that mine wasn't holding both sides at the same angle on it's own which was causing me to have really wonky bevels. A cheap brace fixes all of that.
I bought a clamp brace and a 1"x 4" stone adaptor and Venev Dog Stones for my Precision Adjust. The basic system and a strop is fine for my needs, but, you know, toys lol. I have DMT bench stones for my kitchen knives.
I purchased an apex edgepro4 several years ago instead of a KME. It's great for kitchen knives but it sucks where pocket knives are concerned. I'll be picking up a KME soon
Regarding the worksharp; I think your money's much better spent by getting a 4x1 adapter and some good 4x1 (kme) stones instead of the "pro kit." The worksharp stones wear out fast, in my experience. Granted, I only use them for high carbide steels, but I also only use them to initially set the bevels then freehand after that so they saw much less use than they potentially would from the average user. Unexpectedly fast wear aside, the stones are fully capable. My only other complaint is the narrow width, but that's purely preference and may be a positive to someone else. Edit: Your clip of it in use is also one of the best illustrations of how necessary it is to support the clamp! I threaded a lag bolt up through the base. The FRN is thick and strong enough to be threaded, and it's a much more stable support than all the options you generally see people using.
I haven't worn out the stock stones, but I'm planning on getting an aftermarket holder and stones for it when they do wear out. The basic kit is enough for me to get my knives very sharp so I don't think I'll go too crazy on the stones. There are also little plastic braces you can 3d print or buy that'll go under the knife holding arm.
I have the base model and it will definitely get you a sharp edge, but neeves has pushed me to try free handing on bench stones and so far ive had better luck with that.
@@nebulamask81 Once you get the adapter, get the CGSW resin bonded diamond stones. They aren't cheap, but in my opinion they're the best value in sharpening equipment currently available. I've tried all the janky support methods. They really only work if youre able to wedge it in super tight, but then you're changing the angle. The bolt took 2 minutes and was essentially free, its stiffer and stronger than it will ever need to be and is as permanent (or temporary) as I want.
@@CNYKnifeNut I have just a single CGSW, and I think that's a decent option for 1 stone, 1 strop sharpening. And not terribly expensive. I started from wanting a CGSW stone, and essentially bought the worksharp and adapter rather than buy the bench sized stone.
Love my work sharp precision adjust. Have replaced the 320and600 grit diamond plate/stones. And does an excellent sharpening job, good enough to cut paper towels! My only problem is clamping to tapered knife blades.
Ruixin Pro works very well for me, specially the RX009 model. I sharpen knives for people (maybe 60-80 knives a year) and used the Ruixin Pro RX008 with some diamond stones for a while now. Most of the knives that come to me are in terrible condition and need a full reprofile and chip removal, so the use is heavy duty, even if they are not "super steels". After some use, the system did became a bit wonky, but still usable. There is no plastic on the main system parts (except the rod eyelet ball and handle), though the alloy they use for the clamp is a soft chinesium. The diamond stones are not insane quality but I still managed to sharpen over 200 knives of all kinds with them, and they can still go. I do recommend buying the diamond stones, as the basic corundum that come with it are not very good. Might not last as long as WS or KME system diamond stones, but the stones are basic dovetail mount and non-proprietary like the WS for example and are way cheaper. Has a rotating clamp and can fit pretty big knives as well. I upgraded to the RX009 model a week or two ago and it is even better. Seems to be addressing some of the issues the RX008 had pretty well, but still have to see it in some substantial use. There are also upgrade and replacement parts you can get (that fit both models) along the way if needed. You don't have to buy a full new sharpener if you manage to break something. If you are burdened by the exact N-degree angle it is not for you, though you can still make it work. I don't do "angles" unless requested (and it is never requested), I eyeball it according to the specific knife. If you just want a sharp knife, it will serve you well for years, for basic home use it is absolutely fine.
I prefer table systems like the edge pro or hapstone. Much more versatile for a multitude of blade grinds. Where as a clamp system is best for anything with flat edges on both sides but can do other shapes but not as well. Full flat grinds without flat spots to clamp. Also Spyderco style where they are full flat and thinning near the tip etc are just two examples. Sure you can do them in clamp systems but its not idea and can move in the clamps. Plus the table systems use edge pro universal stones that have so many options. The tsprof systems do have a lot of advantages too and a lot of options and also uses edge pro style stones. I usually use the edge pro sized stones in my hands or desk for sharpening and touch ups and only use the systems to re profile. Everyone should learn to use bench stones. Sometimes its just better, faster and easier. Especially if you already have your edge angle set. The important part is that you form an apex with a minimal bur and remove the bur completely. Which most people have trouble with both of those. The bur is sometimes really difficult for most to even see because its so small.
I’ve had the same KME since 2018, it’s been a godsend in learning how to sharpen a knife to optimize the steel and blade type. I’ve taken CPM-M4 from 22° to 18° then coarse mirrored it and only took 4 hours total.
4 hours?! Is that taking breaks and throughout the day altogether accumulated time or? I mean, I've heard that M4 is hard to sharpen but jesus..it only takes me maybe a half hour altogether sharpening from 140 grit to 1500 on S45, no lapping or anything though.
@@smeefbeef367 Wow, that's crazy all the same. Reprofiling still I can get done in under an hour on softer steels, I suppose I wasn't aware how hard M4 is, I've never used it before.
I got lucky and pre-ordered the WorkSharp Precision Adjust sharpener for $40 USD on the initial pre-release of the system (I guess it was 2 years ago - time flies). It worked great, but I wanted more from the sharpener. When the expansion set was released in late 2021, I had to seriously consider if I wanted to put an additional $120 USD into the Precision adjust or just bite the bullet and spend the extra money to get the KME diamond system. (note: The price of the Prescision Adjust Add-On Kit may be less, but I have not looked to see after the initial announcement in 2021.) I decided to go with the KME solution with diamond stones and I have absolutely loved the results. The entry level Precision Adjust system is a wonderful "gateway apparatus" for the price to see if you want to learn how to use a fixed angle system, but don't spend too much money on this tool because you will quickly outgrow the system if you enjoy this method of sharpening.
Had the same conundrum and thought process and just went with the KME myself and am so glad I decided to go that way. I've only sharpened about 6-7 knives but I absolutely love it thus far. Got the stones broken in on the beaters and only just sharpened my Para 2 & 3 this weekend. Can't get hair whittling just yet, but definitely shaving sharp. Want to get the roo strop and emulsion next.
I think the WS Precision Adjust is the best value guided sharpener on the market, and the standard model (AU$120) is perfect if you're not sure you want to invest in guided sharpening. Personally, I wouldn't go for the WS upgrade kit and would instead get an aftermarket 4in stone holder and some "proper" stones; it costs about the same, but you get bigger/better stones as well. I think the KME is the single best "one and done" system because it's enough of an upgrade over the WS Precision to still be considered good value (although I still can't believe they charge an extra $60 for the stand), but it's still close enough in performance to the $700+ systems that I can't really justify spending more. I also love that you can get accessories to sharpen convex edges, axes, etc.
Thanks for another great video, I enjoy all your content! I am trying to decide which way to go. My primary sharpening needs are sub 3 inch slip joints, some slightly larger folders and fixed blades most lowly under 4 inches and family kitchen knives under 8.5 inches. I am thinking KME the customers support, community and resources are amazing, but I have Hapstone either r2 or the smaller rs in the back of mind. I live in a small house with no dedicated space which I think knocks out the R2. I just wish there was more info on that Hapstone RS which is available as a Kickstarter currently . There is Little info on the RS and it has no reviews.Any advice or thoughts? Many thanks!
I have debated an Apex Edge Pro. I have the work sharp which I am not unhappy with I just need something for bigger knives. I like that the Edge Pro doesn't use clamps do you don't have the problem with angle inconsistencies.
Same. I was hoping he'd give his opinion on it to see where it lands vs the Worksharp. I am leaning more towards the Apex. Not having to worry about clamps and blade length as much is great. Not sure how good their stones are and how steady I can keep my hands using it though.
I've been using the edge pro for years and continue to because I usually do a 12 or 13 dps edge with a 20 dps microbevel. You do have to pay more attention, and find the sweet spot on the blade where it can be stable. Some knives are easy, really most, to hold steady. Some are a bit finicky though. With a 400 grit atoma stone, and your choice of grits in diamond or chosera stones reprofiling and sharpening are easy. You will need a drill stop collar for the different thickness of some, and an angle cube because all angle guides on these things are guesses. Good edges though, but bit messy, need to put in a bit more effort since you're holding it, and you need to get some extras to really make it rock.
@@couldntthingofone269 That's great info. Thank you! I was considering Apex 4, but it sounds like going with Apex 1 + drill stop collar + diamond stones + angle cube might be the way.
What would have been interesting in aditional info would be how they handle full flat ground knives with the clamps, and that depending on where you grip the knife, how long it is and how deep the blade (and the curve to the tip) the angle will change. So for the first thing: if there is no portion on the back of the blade where the clamp interfaces with parallel surfaces of the blade like it is with full flat grinds you can clamp the blade kinked to one side with several of these clamps. This would mean despite the agle cube different angles between left and right side of the blade. As for the second: if you take the clever you showed the edge of the cleaver has a pretty constant curve, so if you grip the clever in the center, the angle change from tip to handle is minimal and symmetric. If you take your Ka-bar for example where you have a long straight edge and then a small radius to the tip it depends where you set the clamps and how far the pivot point is distanced to the edge on how much the angle will change between the rounded poirtion towards the tip and the flat part of the edge. (In my opinion the expensive one with the big sitance may offer the smallest angel change, but i personally would not want to invest that amount of money) So with such systems it is important to record where on the blade of each knife you clamp it, and with which angle so that you don't always profile the edge new with each sharpening. These things are what (after trying out "fixed" angle sharpening) kept me at freehand sharpening with stones or diamond plates. (i also tried out the spyderco sharpmaker, but for whatever reason it takes almost an hour for a dull knife even with the original diamont rods to get sharp with it. And with normal diamond plates i am 10 times faster, so i use the Sharpmaker rarely too now)
I have the WS with the grit-o-matic stone holder and use the kme diamond stones. Works great. Will maybe one day by the kme stand since I have the stones. Grit-o-matic makes some cool aftermarket stuff for the work sharp.
Right now, the Work Sharp Precision Adjust deluxe kit costs about US $120 in the USA. The bare-bones kit (fewer hones, and no case) is about U.S. $60. I guess it’s more expensive in Australia, including shipping from America.
What's your opinion on the Spyderco Sharpmaker? Me, I think it's great for finishing knives I hand sharpen, or knives that don't require deep chip removal. And it sharpens serrated edges with aplomb. You're right about the Worksharp field sharpener, it's fantastic bang for the buck, use mine all the time. For my sharpening side hustle, my DMT 600 grit diamond stone is my go to. It's well used, probably more like an 800 grit stone, and combined with leather strop and chromium oxide compound, I get phenomenal kitchen knife edges. Whoa! Those pups are doggo sized now! Nice to see them grow :)
I got to work sharp precision adjust for $50 and then went to grindworx and got Veneave Diamond stones which are top-of-the-line double-sided grit for 30 or so bucks and holder plus support wedge for same price as the elite model. 🔥✌️ And then I got a case and Kline angle cube from Amazon
My friend and coworker has the WS precision elite and I have the Wicked edge go. We did a side by side comparison of the WS vs the wicked edge and I was shocked about the difference. Y’all don’t sleep on the wicked edge. Yea the stones are more but I was pretty shocked how much better the wicked edge did and how much longer the edge lasted with the same new rated grit stones
Thanks for this very enlightening video. Made the decision a lot easier for me. Doubly helpful, because a work buddy wanted help today on what sharpener he should get. XD
This was really informative! I sometimes get curious about clamping systems, having used Edge Pro for over a decade. I’ll have to grab a Tsprof some day and find out
Newish to the hobby and I have a Spyderco sharp maker so not quite as good I’m sure, but if my knife is moderately sharp can I skip the first couple of steps and jump right to the finer grit or any messing something up by doing that? Thanks, sorry if it’s a dumb question.
Precision adjust pro gs work sharp W belt grinder attachment if you could only pick one? I’m desperate. Thanks. (Also which is simply more fun to use?)
Hello; I Have some question, what do you all Think about sandpaper used for sharpening? I will aply it on some block of wood and use like this sharpening Stones. Bad idea? I Have gradation From 240 to 2000, but my Stones are only to 1000. Can I use 1500 and then 2000 like strop?
This was a very popular method to maintain convex blades. I would use a sheet of glass as a flat surface, then use a neoprene mousepad under sandpaper. You could use 3m spray adhesive (the temporary one) to hold it all together better.
I have KME and TSPROF Kadet also. Love the KME but want to try the big stones. The TSPROF diamond plates have been wearing out pretty quickly. I'm hoping the edge pro matrix will last longer. I have Tormek also that I have used planes and chisels. Thank you for your great videos.
I started sharpening on a work sharp precision adjust, and I loved it, but I think the most evident flaw is how the stones are inset into the plastic. it makes it impossible to get the stone all the way up to the plunge grind of most Spyderco knives for example and makes the result look odd. the rest of the edge is flawless though.
I had returned one for this reason and I don't see many people mention it. I told WS that they could just use thicker stones so they stick out of the plastic further and it would solve the problem. The lansky stones stick out far enough for example.
I have the KME and precision adjust, but any more I use the WorkSharp Ken Onion with blade grinder attachment. Its fast and I get good results. I'm not as much into sitting down and really fussing over an edge like is used too be.
I've got the KME, and all 3 worksharps you showed. I say your assessments were pretty spot on.
The Worksharp Precision Adjust Elite is my first fixed angle sharpener and I'm just as pleased as punch with it. Here in the US they sell for $120.
One thing I’ve noticed with these systems is that the angles get shallower near the ends (tip and heel) of the blade.
I’m not on the forums so I don’t know if this has been discussed to death already, but I did the math, and it’s not insignificant. If you are putting a 20 degree edge on a 3” blade (with the blade clamped exactly in the middle) the edge is about 0.75 degrees shallower at the tip and heel than the middle. It’s worse with bigger blades.
This is because the arm has to “reach” farther out to contact the edges farther from the clamp. Imagine standing a foot from the kitchen counter and touching the edge right in front of you versus the edge 3 feet to either side. The angle of your arm changes.
The longer the blade is (or farther from center it’s clamped), the bigger the variation. If you clamped a 3” blade all the way at one end (or clamped a 6” blade in the middle) the edge will vary by over 2.5 degrees from tip (or heel) to center.
Notes: These numbers are for a straight edge. Since most blades have some belly, the differences in angle will vary. Systems that hold the edge farther from the mounting point of the arm will have less variation. You can use your angle finder to measure the angle at various points along the edge to see for yourself.
I don’t know, maybe everybody knows this and nobody cares?
Technically not correct. While it does "math out" and seem like it is changing it actually does not. Years ago somebody did some CAD videos showing it and perfectly explaining it but for the life of me I can't find it. I did find one by Simple Little Life (v=UjoTLYsKG9k) that kind of explains it.
WS precision adjust elite works just fine for the $. I have done everything from touch up/polish on a Kershaw Leek all the way to complete repair/reprofile of a 6in survival knife (that took a couple of hours). Only issue is if you try to go too acutely angled on certain small blades you end up grinding away on the clamp. It has some size limitations but not many and is easily worth the money. It does make for razor sharp clean edges. Recommend getting a separate large paddle strop as well and you’ll be fine
Yeah I have 2 shorts on my channel of 2 knifes I've done with the work Sharp elite, straight razor sharp awesome setup!!!!!!
Yeah the only problem I have with mine is it really doesn't work on something like a Becker Combat Bowie, it's just too big for the unit. Works great on your standard kitchen and pocket knives though, which is honestly what I use the most by like a wide margin.
I was just going to post that it will grind the clamp on small knives with steep angles. Something to watch for
I also recommend getting a clamp stand to help prevent vertical movement. I also like using lapping film for high to mirror polish. Has been my main sharpening system for a few month and have enjoyed it
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night ruclips.net/user/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
This is the only knife channel to which I have stayed subscribe over the years. Honest, informed and incredibly entertaining, it never fails to deliver the goods. This video is a perfect example. Still, I think these sharpeners are absurdly overpriced, the TSProf being the only one that costs more than $15 (US) to make.
A feature that would really improve them would be a screw/knob to adjust the angle with precision rather than making you use one hand to position the guide and the other to tighten the knob, all the while having to balance the angle cube. And the fact that the width of the blade changes the angle of incidence (as you pointed out) so you can't set it and then sharpen different knives in succession knowing you have the angle dialed in is really counterproductive. And to spend $300-500 and not be able to sharpen your large kitchen knives just seems a waste.
4 Harbor Freight belt sanders ($240) (or spend a bit more for quality machines), 4 Surgi Sharp angle guides ($60), 20 Trizact belts (5 each of 80, 30, 16 and 6 microns) ($100), and a 1x30 inch leather strop belt ($20) will give you guided angles and perfect edges on 100's of knives for about $420! Then, if you really need 'polished edges' buy a knock-off guided sharpener and some plates and lapping film for a total investment that is still less than $500. And if you are willing to change belts instead of having 4 grits on 4 machines ready and waiting that cost comes down to about $195. Just something to consider as, for those who haven't used angle-guide sharpeners, they should understand that the process is extremely time-consuming.
A belt sander system will also allow you to sharpen loppers, shears, lawnmower blades etc. And with a single belt sander system has a footprint no bigger than the KME.
They released a new model of Kadet - Kadet Pro. It has a toothed gearing and it allows you to set the angle with one hand.
You’re channel is one of the reasons why I bought a KME a few years ago. Been able to get some great results with it!
Your* channel (you're = you are)
@@einundsiebenziger5488grammar nazi
Also I think it would be worth keeping a Worksharp around for sharpening recurves. The narrow abrasives are capable of getting into most of those curves.
with venev ursa which a set from extra coarse to ultra fine and produces crazy sharp edges and super nice polish on the edge for only $110. might seem like a lot but these stones last a while
I have a handful of systems including the Spyderco Sharpmaker and an old lansky, WS field sharpener (keep in my truck). Got the WS Elite a year ago and added the aftermarket support. Still love it. Also have the WS Ken Onion system with the blade attachment. Started freehand with Naniwa stones. Did okay but wanted to go back to a fixed angle with higher quality. Got the TS Prof Kadet Pro and added Atoma 140 and a full set of Venev resin bonded Dimond and the L adapters so I can center the blade with both clamps on pocket knives and add an inch for wide blades. ABSOLUTELY LOVE it! Hands down most versatile and can do a knife in half the time as the WS because of the larger stones. Like someone else mentioned I am keeping the WS for recurve blades with the smaller stones. Great video!
Thanks Pete - more great info based on actual use and practise. Most of my sharpening gear is either Lanksy or Worksharp and have had no real problems with either. Most of my gear is several years old (well some bits are over 20 years old) and a bit basic compared to the newer rigs. After 35+ years of knives the absolute best advice I can give is practise, practise, practise. Get an old knife or two and practise. Get to know how your system works to get the best out of it. Sharp blades all.
Food for thought with the Worksharp:
The Worksharp's thinner stones are quite helpful for dealing with deeper recurves without investing in additional rounded stones for the other systems. It still isn't going to take care of an aggressive karambit, but that's just the nature of fixed angle sharpeners in general.
I've sharpened up to 8" chef knives on the Worksharp as well. You don't get the whole stone's throw out toward the tip, but it gets the job done. Depending on the spine width of a meat cleaver, it might not fit in the smaller jaws of it, but other kitchen knives are all good as their spine thickness is considerably thinner.
Meat cleavers are a bit of a niche product though. They're not precision instruments, they're designed to hack through bone, so even if you get them laser sharp, that edge won't last long. There's a reason why most of them have a hole out toward the tip-side; it's to hang it up alongside your pans since they're not dangerously sharp. With most modern butchery being done at grocery stores or plants, meat cleavers are becoming less common or needed in homes, at least here in the US.
Lastly, I like the Worksharp for causal sharpening, as I use it more often in a handheld manner. Hold the back of the system with my left hand, actuate the arm with my right. Allows me to chill on the couch and reprofile rather than being tethered to a table or workbench. Trying to do that with the KME is a bit unwieldy (as covered), and I've also had a knife blade or two swing toward me due to the system pivoting on the base.
I can only speak to the KME in this group, as I have only used a KME, a Lansky, and a Wicked Sharp. Hated the WS and sold it almost immediately (for a profit.) Used the Lamsky for years and it did an adequate job. The KME was a whole other dimension in knife sharpening. It is easy to get a razor sharp edge with the KME. I bought the full kit plus the Japanese Water Stones. As great as the KME is, the KME support (Brian) is exponentially better than the KME device itself. When a couple of parts failed, KME sent upgraded replacements immediately with no questions asked. I highly recommend the KME. I feel it has been well worth the price. Great video Pete!! I'm up to 4 Akubra hats now!!!!
Great video! Something to keep in mind is that when you swing any of these systems over a wide range of angles in the horizontal direction you again are changing the bevel angle. I use and EdgePro. In the $200 price range, One advantage of the EdgePro is that the spine stop is adjustable, so you can keep the bevel angle pretty constant by adjusting the stop distance. The downside is that it doesn’t clamp the system, so you have to watch to make sure that you are keeping the knife flat against the surface. Also it really doesn’t go below a 10deg half bevel angle, so if you are looking to do a hard knife at a really narrow angle, this system won’t work on it.
Dude your content is great. Not sure how you don’t have more subs . I imagine your channel will blow up to 200k this year
As soon as I read the caption I knew you were going to ply some angle :)
Great comparison Pete . As always to the point and informative. The dogs are looking 👌
Excellent showdown! So glad you included the non-fixed-angle sharpeners too - was wondering what happened to the Tormek and nice to see it again. It's been fun to watch your journey of sharpening devices over the years and learning about each one. Also fun to see the pups grow up. Thanks for sharing!
The model I have used is the Work Sharp Precision Adjust. I’ve only had mine for a month or two, but here are a couple of things I’ve learned (in addition to what Cedric said):
When you clamp a large-ish knife or tool in the holder, the plastic base becomes really front-heavy and can topple over. So I’ve started clamping the base to my table with a couple of C-clamps. I do this even for a small pocket knife, to give the whole rig stability.
The knife-holding clamp is just help to the base with small magnets, and it can have a good deal of up-and-down play when you’re rubbing the sharpening plates on the blade. It really helps to buy and use one of the small after-market braces that go under the clamp arm, or you could make one yourself easily if you prefer.
If you have a knife too big for the clamp, such as a machete, you can use the aforementioned C-clamps to clamp the blade to a table, or clamp it in a bench vise, and use the sharpening plates for freehand sharpening. An angle finder, as Cedric demonstrates, is a big help for putting the diamond plates at the right angle.
Pete definitely looks like a Cedric
Really glad to have your perspective from experience. I just got the Work Sharp Precision Adjust, which seems to work well, but I'm new to the knife sharpening game, need to put in more time--it's close, detailed work requiring care. Thanks very much!
Great video Pete, very informative. Can't believe how big the dogs have gotten. Hope they are doing well 😀
Love my KME used to have the old version of the worksharp wasn’t a fan ended up giving it away though hopefully the new versions are better. I also agree that getting a digital angle guide is a must for anyone that uses/sharpens a collection of different knives.
I like the fancy sharpeners but I just use a lansky box and an old leather belt. It helps that my main knives are VG-10 and Victorinox SS.
IMO the diminished returns of these expensive systems aren't worth it
@@Mastermindyoung14 I've never owned any of them, but it seems like the blade being sharp enough to cut is good enough for me.
I own like 3 dozen natural water stones and bought a tsprof because sharpening modern powder metallurgy stainless steels on a waterstone is my personal nightmare.
Thanks for breaking it down and explaining it so succinctly like I’m a hypoxic baby Pete
would simply get the Lansky system. works great for me...blessings to all
I have the edge pro and I purchased a few venev stones. It is great for all of my needs. I would recommend it to anyone.
bought the basic worksharp model couple of months ago. while it has some quirks and problems - mainly the clamp getting ground off a bit when sharpening small blades and how acute of an angle you can put on those; this system has singlehandedly turned an anxiety inducing ordeal into a pleasant walk in a park of a sharpening experience
I totally agree with everything you said. I think I'm going to go up to the TS proof just because I'm grinding off my knife holder😂
FYI ... On a 7" blade centered up in the grip under the pivot, the effective grind angle will gradually drop by 2º as you approach the tip & heal of the knife. Example 17º set-up at center, drops to 15º at 3.5" off center. To mitigate the issue use a fixed angle sharpening rig with the pivot on a rail, equal to or longer than the blade you are sharpening.
Could you please make a recommendation for such a sharpener? Thank you!
This is actually not true. On a straight edge the angle on the sharpening bevel stays the same even if the blade is infinitely long. If you look at the system from the front or top this feels quite unintuitive, but if you look from the tip along the edge you will notice that the angle is the same. Think about how the angle of the sharpening stone from the top of the bevel to the edge also changes when you bring the arm towards the tip. Try calculate some trigonometry and you will see that the sharpening angle will only change if the edge curves.
As some others said what about the edge pro and wicked edge?
Especially the edge pro apex, it's the original of all these designs and is definitely better value and more extensible than that worksharp.
Great video though and the tsprof looks nice. 🍻
I am really glad you posted this. Wanted to see a comparison of different systems. A good friend is deciding to buy a system so will send this link along.
I have the Hapstone R2. I actually spent the money on a basic set of CBN stones. Between diamond and CBN, I'll take CBN.
Crazy sharp!
I'm very pleased with Sharpmaker!!
Just sold my kme in order to pay for a tsprof kadet pro, also decided to spring for the hapstone premium cbn stone set. More money than I'd like to have spent but I do believe I'll have it all for a very long time
When I bought my Ruxin cheapy, I didn't buy any stones with it. I bought the nicer stones elsewhere, and that's where most of the cost from the kit comes from.
I like the Work Sharp. I’ve bought two. One I gave away. I use mine to re-profile edges. After that I use bench stones for regular edge maintenance.
have not regretted buying a wicked edge. will always wish it could do it by feel. i had never heard the last one you showed. part of choosing the WE for me was sharpening bigger fixed blades.
Finally a sharpener that works for my Chakrams!
Just got the worksharp basic - pretty well pleased with it so far.
Great helpful comparison video! I trust WorkSharp to make a decent sharpener. I have one of the more delux version of their belt sharpeners I use for my cleavers and scissors and blender blades and larger tools. It’s great!
I have been using DMT hand sharpening for all my pocket knives. I think I convexed a couple of them on a bad day though. I’m shopping for a fixed angle sharpening system. This is a great help. Thanks. I do also use water stones for my kitchen knives because I need the capacity to work on larger knives. The larger size and better feedback make it easier to hold the angle and freehand sharpen.
Thanks for making this video. I already have a cheapo fixed angle system but the fundamentals you mention really go a long way on any sharpening system.
Perfect video for a monday after work
The KME is awesome. If I had unlimited funds I would get the TS Prof for my larger knives. Even a decent sized chef knife will have varying angles from tip to heel using the KME if the knife position isn’t adjusted. The larger radius of the TS would minimize this.
I've got a Wicked Edge Gen 3 that I bought off eBay used for $700 and added like $250 worth of accessories and a Work Sharp electric Ken Onion edition sharpener for about $150 and added literally every extra accessory you can buy including belts and that came out to about $300.
Both of them handle any sharpening job I've ever come across.
Wicked edge for pocket and kitchen knives.
Worksharp for anything used outdoor related like axes, swords or when I have a TON of knives to sharpen quickly.
There are folks making accessories for the worksharp that ups its game a bit. Got a 'kickstand' that braces the arm up and really helps when you're going after it on a reprofile or something. Also universal stone holders, I haven't tried mine yet but it should help a lot on one of the problems with the original stones and that's they aren't tall enough to get back into the corner of some blades. That said I really like mine, wish they came out with the 'heavy duty' version, if I had the time I'd make one.
But after all the accessories and everything does the total price kind of on par with the KME?
@@MrNiceGuy80x5 I couldn't say. You know how these things are, you can spend as much as you want on any of them. Start buying top dog stones and the entry prices drop down the cost sheet.
If you are halfway competent with tools you can make a KME base as a DIY project. Same with the Worksharp. You can stabilize it on your own. Save money to buy more stones.
Regarding the Worksharp: Get the basic kit for 50€ (+/-) and buy replacement parts when the honing surface gets used up. Especially if you own a leather strap anyway.
Just another welcomed video of comparisons on things I’m interested in ❤
The Amazon screen shot you shared at the 9 min mark is the TSProf Blitz, which is much smaller and different than the Kadet Nero you use in the video.
I have the WS precision but would love to try the others someday. Sharpening is something I really enjoy.
I have a lansky, wicked edge go, kme, and some other cheapo things along with a very small selection of benchstones. Anymore I don't use the guided sharpeners unless I let a blade go really dull and damaged, or it came from the factory with a wonky edge. For touchups and maintenance I use a dmt extra fine and a spyderco ultra fine ceramic. I also use a dmt diafold coarse/fine for small pocket knives like slipjoints. If it needs extra work I find myself using the kme most out of all the systems I have. Most of the time I just don't feel like getting the case out and setting it up. I'll grab another knife before I do that and I'll end up with a dozen really dull knives before I have to spend an afternoon sharpening. So a quick run on a bench hone saves me a lot of headache.
I really like my work sharp precision adjust but I always recommend that people also buy a brace for the jaws if they get one. The way the jaws flex under sharpening is it's biggest weakness and after getting a brace I found that mine wasn't holding both sides at the same angle on it's own which was causing me to have really wonky bevels. A cheap brace fixes all of that.
Kme's are only like 180 now. Thanks worksharp
I bought a clamp brace and a 1"x 4" stone adaptor and Venev Dog Stones for my Precision Adjust. The basic system and a strop is fine for my needs, but, you know, toys lol. I have DMT bench stones for my kitchen knives.
I purchased an apex edgepro4 several years ago instead of a KME. It's great for kitchen knives but it sucks where pocket knives are concerned. I'll be picking up a KME soon
Hi! Could you please explain why apex works bad with small pocket knifes? Im between this to so its very interesting.
Regarding the worksharp; I think your money's much better spent by getting a 4x1 adapter and some good 4x1 (kme) stones instead of the "pro kit."
The worksharp stones wear out fast, in my experience. Granted, I only use them for high carbide steels, but I also only use them to initially set the bevels then freehand after that so they saw much less use than they potentially would from the average user.
Unexpectedly fast wear aside, the stones are fully capable. My only other complaint is the narrow width, but that's purely preference and may be a positive to someone else.
Edit: Your clip of it in use is also one of the best illustrations of how necessary it is to support the clamp! I threaded a lag bolt up through the base. The FRN is thick and strong enough to be threaded, and it's a much more stable support than all the options you generally see people using.
I haven't worn out the stock stones, but I'm planning on getting an aftermarket holder and stones for it when they do wear out. The basic kit is enough for me to get my knives very sharp so I don't think I'll go too crazy on the stones.
There are also little plastic braces you can 3d print or buy that'll go under the knife holding arm.
I have the base model and it will definitely get you a sharp edge, but neeves has pushed me to try free handing on bench stones and so far ive had better luck with that.
@@nebulamask81
Once you get the adapter, get the CGSW resin bonded diamond stones. They aren't cheap, but in my opinion they're the best value in sharpening equipment currently available.
I've tried all the janky support methods. They really only work if youre able to wedge it in super tight, but then you're changing the angle.
The bolt took 2 minutes and was essentially free, its stiffer and stronger than it will ever need to be and is as permanent (or temporary) as I want.
@@CNYKnifeNut I have just a single CGSW, and I think that's a decent option for 1 stone, 1 strop sharpening. And not terribly expensive. I started from wanting a CGSW stone, and essentially bought the worksharp and adapter rather than buy the bench sized stone.
Love my work sharp precision adjust. Have replaced the 320and600 grit diamond plate/stones. And does an excellent sharpening job, good enough to cut paper towels! My only problem is clamping to tapered knife blades.
Ruixin Pro works very well for me, specially the RX009 model. I sharpen knives for people (maybe 60-80 knives a year) and used the Ruixin Pro RX008 with some diamond stones for a while now. Most of the knives that come to me are in terrible condition and need a full reprofile and chip removal, so the use is heavy duty, even if they are not "super steels".
After some use, the system did became a bit wonky, but still usable. There is no plastic on the main system parts (except the rod eyelet ball and handle), though the alloy they use for the clamp is a soft chinesium.
The diamond stones are not insane quality but I still managed to sharpen over 200 knives of all kinds with them, and they can still go. I do recommend buying the diamond stones, as the basic corundum that come with it are not very good.
Might not last as long as WS or KME system diamond stones, but the stones are basic dovetail mount and non-proprietary like the WS for example and are way cheaper. Has a rotating clamp and can fit pretty big knives as well.
I upgraded to the RX009 model a week or two ago and it is even better. Seems to be addressing some of the issues the RX008 had pretty well, but still have to see it in some substantial use. There are also upgrade and replacement parts you can get (that fit both models) along the way if needed. You don't have to buy a full new sharpener if you manage to break something.
If you are burdened by the exact N-degree angle it is not for you, though you can still make it work. I don't do "angles" unless requested (and it is never requested), I eyeball it according to the specific knife. If you just want a sharp knife, it will serve you well for years, for basic home use it is absolutely fine.
I prefer table systems like the edge pro or hapstone. Much more versatile for a multitude of blade grinds. Where as a clamp system is best for anything with flat edges on both sides but can do other shapes but not as well. Full flat grinds without flat spots to clamp. Also Spyderco style where they are full flat and thinning near the tip etc are just two examples. Sure you can do them in clamp systems but its not idea and can move in the clamps.
Plus the table systems use edge pro universal stones that have so many options. The tsprof systems do have a lot of advantages too and a lot of options and also uses edge pro style stones.
I usually use the edge pro sized stones in my hands or desk for sharpening and touch ups and only use the systems to re profile.
Everyone should learn to use bench stones. Sometimes its just better, faster and easier. Especially if you already have your edge angle set.
The important part is that you form an apex with a minimal bur and remove the bur completely. Which most people have trouble with both of those. The bur is sometimes really difficult for most to even see because its so small.
I’ve had the same KME since 2018, it’s been a godsend in learning how to sharpen a knife to optimize the steel and blade type. I’ve taken CPM-M4 from 22° to 18° then coarse mirrored it and only took 4 hours total.
4 hours?! Is that taking breaks and throughout the day altogether accumulated time or? I mean, I've heard that M4 is hard to sharpen but jesus..it only takes me maybe a half hour altogether sharpening from 140 grit to 1500 on S45, no lapping or anything though.
@@Knivess0 I was completely redoing the angle, 4 hours total a few breaks all done in one afternoon
@@Knivess0 just remembered I only had a 140 grit as my lowest at that time, so it added to the time significantly.
@@smeefbeef367 Wow, that's crazy all the same. Reprofiling still I can get done in under an hour on softer steels, I suppose I wasn't aware how hard M4 is, I've never used it before.
@@smeefbeef367 M4 is equivalent to around S110, right?
Got my KME expansion kit a yr ago. Few learning curves. Fantastic results. The angle cube is a must. Sharpie on the cutting edge is must also.
Thanks so much! After viewing at least 60 video... your top ! I went Hapstone r2 + jende Atoma kit and recomended frills!
THANK YOU. I've been waiting for a video like this!!!!
I got lucky and pre-ordered the WorkSharp Precision Adjust sharpener for $40 USD on the initial pre-release of the system (I guess it was 2 years ago - time flies). It worked great, but I wanted more from the sharpener. When the expansion set was released in late 2021, I had to seriously consider if I wanted to put an additional $120 USD into the Precision adjust or just bite the bullet and spend the extra money to get the KME diamond system. (note: The price of the Prescision Adjust Add-On Kit may be less, but I have not looked to see after the initial announcement in 2021.) I decided to go with the KME solution with diamond stones and I have absolutely loved the results. The entry level Precision Adjust system is a wonderful "gateway apparatus" for the price to see if you want to learn how to use a fixed angle system, but don't spend too much money on this tool because you will quickly outgrow the system if you enjoy this method of sharpening.
Had the same conundrum and thought process and just went with the KME myself and am so glad I decided to go that way. I've only sharpened about 6-7 knives but I absolutely love it thus far. Got the stones broken in on the beaters and only just sharpened my Para 2 & 3 this weekend. Can't get hair whittling just yet, but definitely shaving sharp. Want to get the roo strop and emulsion next.
I think the WS Precision Adjust is the best value guided sharpener on the market, and the standard model (AU$120) is perfect if you're not sure you want to invest in guided sharpening. Personally, I wouldn't go for the WS upgrade kit and would instead get an aftermarket 4in stone holder and some "proper" stones; it costs about the same, but you get bigger/better stones as well.
I think the KME is the single best "one and done" system because it's enough of an upgrade over the WS Precision to still be considered good value (although I still can't believe they charge an extra $60 for the stand), but it's still close enough in performance to the $700+ systems that I can't really justify spending more. I also love that you can get accessories to sharpen convex edges, axes, etc.
How does the Lansky system compare to Work Sharp? Which is the better budget system?
I can't believe how big your pups are. It looks like your golden is as mental as mine. They are so goofy.
Thanks for another great video, I enjoy all your content! I am trying to decide which way to go. My primary sharpening needs are sub 3 inch slip joints, some slightly larger folders and fixed blades most lowly under 4 inches and family kitchen knives under 8.5 inches. I am thinking KME the customers support, community and resources are amazing, but I have Hapstone either r2 or the smaller rs in the back of mind. I live in a small house with no dedicated space which I think knocks out the R2. I just wish there was more info on that Hapstone RS which is available as a Kickstarter currently . There is Little info on the RS and it has no reviews.Any advice or thoughts? Many thanks!
I like the new spectacles
Great collection of sharpening tools.
I have debated an Apex Edge Pro. I have the work sharp which I am not unhappy with I just need something for bigger knives. I like that the Edge Pro doesn't use clamps do you don't have the problem with angle inconsistencies.
Same. I was hoping he'd give his opinion on it to see where it lands vs the Worksharp. I am leaning more towards the Apex. Not having to worry about clamps and blade length as much is great. Not sure how good their stones are and how steady I can keep my hands using it though.
I've been using the edge pro for years and continue to because I usually do a 12 or 13 dps edge with a 20 dps microbevel. You do have to pay more attention, and find the sweet spot on the blade where it can be stable. Some knives are easy, really most, to hold steady. Some are a bit finicky though. With a 400 grit atoma stone, and your choice of grits in diamond or chosera stones reprofiling and sharpening are easy. You will need a drill stop collar for the different thickness of some, and an angle cube because all angle guides on these things are guesses. Good edges though, but bit messy, need to put in a bit more effort since you're holding it, and you need to get some extras to really make it rock.
@@couldntthingofone269 That's great info. Thank you! I was considering Apex 4, but it sounds like going with Apex 1 + drill stop collar + diamond stones + angle cube might be the way.
What would have been interesting in aditional info would be how they handle full flat ground knives with the clamps, and that depending on where you grip the knife, how long it is and how deep the blade (and the curve to the tip) the angle will change.
So for the first thing: if there is no portion on the back of the blade where the clamp interfaces with parallel surfaces of the blade like it is with full flat grinds you can clamp the blade kinked to one side with several of these clamps. This would mean despite the agle cube different angles between left and right side of the blade.
As for the second: if you take the clever you showed the edge of the cleaver has a pretty constant curve, so if you grip the clever in the center, the angle change from tip to handle is minimal and symmetric. If you take your Ka-bar for example where you have a long straight edge and then a small radius to the tip it depends where you set the clamps and how far the pivot point is distanced to the edge on how much the angle will change between the rounded poirtion towards the tip and the flat part of the edge. (In my opinion the expensive one with the big sitance may offer the smallest angel change, but i personally would not want to invest that amount of money)
So with such systems it is important to record where on the blade of each knife you clamp it, and with which angle so that you don't always profile the edge new with each sharpening.
These things are what (after trying out "fixed" angle sharpening) kept me at freehand sharpening with stones or diamond plates.
(i also tried out the spyderco sharpmaker, but for whatever reason it takes almost an hour for a dull knife even with the original diamont rods to get sharp with it. And with normal diamond plates i am 10 times faster, so i use the Sharpmaker rarely too now)
Been waiting so long for ur review on these
I have the WS with the grit-o-matic stone holder and use the kme diamond stones. Works great. Will maybe one day by the kme stand since I have the stones. Grit-o-matic makes some cool aftermarket stuff for the work sharp.
Right now, the Work Sharp Precision Adjust deluxe kit costs about US $120 in the USA. The bare-bones kit (fewer hones, and no case) is about U.S. $60. I guess it’s more expensive in Australia, including shipping from America.
What's your opinion on the Spyderco Sharpmaker? Me, I think it's great for finishing knives I hand sharpen, or knives that don't require deep chip removal. And it sharpens serrated edges with aplomb.
You're right about the Worksharp field sharpener, it's fantastic bang for the buck, use mine all the time.
For my sharpening side hustle, my DMT 600 grit diamond stone is my go to. It's well used, probably more like an 800 grit stone, and combined with leather strop and chromium oxide compound, I get phenomenal kitchen knife edges.
Whoa! Those pups are doggo sized now! Nice to see them grow :)
I got to work sharp precision adjust for $50 and then went to grindworx and got Veneave Diamond stones which are top-of-the-line double-sided grit for 30 or so bucks and holder plus support wedge for same price as the elite model. 🔥✌️ And then I got a case and Kline angle cube from Amazon
Well done, thank you! Resolved some of my confusion.
Thanks!
My friend and coworker has the WS precision elite and I have the Wicked edge go. We did a side by side comparison of the WS vs the wicked edge and I was shocked about the difference. Y’all don’t sleep on the wicked edge. Yea the stones are more but I was pretty shocked how much better the wicked edge did and how much longer the edge lasted with the same new rated grit stones
Convex attachment on the TSPROF Kadet ftw. I get PRÉCISE and amazing convex edges on my PM2 in M-4 and other difficult to sharpen steels.
Try the Spyderco Double Stuff. If you're decent at freehand, it's not too different from carrying a sharpmaker around.
I love my amk-75, worth its weight in gold!
Thanks for this very enlightening video. Made the decision a lot easier for me. Doubly helpful, because a work buddy wanted help today on what sharpener he should get. XD
This was really informative! I sometimes get curious about clamping systems, having used Edge Pro for over a decade. I’ll have to grab a Tsprof some day and find out
There’s not much on youtube about the edge pro. It seems like a great concept, how have you liked it? Pros and cons?
Is there a difference in the angle cube measurement compared to the top of the stone and the bottom of stone that’s actually touching the blade?
How would these compare to say.. a waterstone with one of those angle clips.
Superb film and info. THANKS!
Very nicely done informational video.
Got KME, have 6”, 15cm venev stones as well, should I update to ts prof? Is base
weighted, stroke length better, two clamps better than one for
Very useful comparison & lots of good info, thank you. Whats the maximum spine thickness you can get into the Worksharp?
Newish to the hobby and I have a Spyderco sharp maker so not quite as good I’m sure, but if my knife is moderately sharp can I skip the first couple of steps and jump right to the finer grit or any messing something up by doing that? Thanks, sorry if it’s a dumb question.
Precision adjust pro gs work sharp W belt grinder attachment if you could only pick one? I’m desperate. Thanks. (Also which is simply more fun to use?)
Hello;
I Have some question, what do you all Think about sandpaper used for sharpening? I will aply it on some block of wood and use like this sharpening Stones. Bad idea? I Have gradation From 240 to 2000, but my Stones are only to 1000. Can I use 1500 and then 2000 like strop?
This was a very popular method to maintain convex blades. I would use a sheet of glass as a flat surface, then use a neoprene mousepad under sandpaper. You could use 3m spray adhesive (the temporary one) to hold it all together better.
I have KME and TSPROF Kadet also. Love the KME but want to try the big stones. The TSPROF diamond plates have been wearing out pretty quickly. I'm hoping the edge pro matrix will last longer. I have Tormek also that I have used planes and chisels. Thank you for your great videos.
If you had a choice of a budget portable sharpener that I could keep in the trunck of my car what would it be ?
Have you thought about getting a Wicked Edge? That one seems to be a lot faster due to two stones working almost at the same time.
I started sharpening on a work sharp precision adjust, and I loved it, but I think the most evident flaw is how the stones are inset into the plastic. it makes it impossible to get the stone all the way up to the plunge grind of most Spyderco knives for example and makes the result look odd. the rest of the edge is flawless though.
I had returned one for this reason and I don't see many people mention it. I told WS that they could just use thicker stones so they stick out of the plastic further and it would solve the problem. The lansky stones stick out far enough for example.
What strops/compounds/emulsions/pastes do you use on the TSprof to get your mirror polishes...?
Have you tried a wicked edge sharpener?
I have the KME and precision adjust, but any more I use the WorkSharp Ken Onion with blade grinder attachment. Its fast and I get good results. I'm not as much into sitting down and really fussing over an edge like is used too be.