Fully Studded 13B Bridgeport Turbo Race Engine Buildup - "The STUD" (NEW)
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- This video shows all the strength and performance modifications that REC chose and performed including a full stud kit. This is a full buildup video showing the engine being assembled from start to finish.
All Work Presented, Preformed At RX7 Specialties/ www,RotaryEngine.com
If You Are Looking For A Rotary Engine Or need An Engine Rebuild, Come To The Experts!
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When I was 16 I was getting into a lot of trouble with the law. Skipping school and just being a knuckle head. My dad didn’t know what to do with me and I didn’t want to do much with him. So he came up with this idea of building an engine/car together. So he bought a 2ns gen rx7 and the rest is history. That got me into cars and off the streets. We eventually built a few engines together and one was a full port one. We studded it and all. This vid made me think of when my dad and I were at our happiest. Great vid man.
Great story!!
best dad ever. also gr8 story
I was a clean, straight laced kid that got into cars and ended up street racing and smoking crack. So it can go either way.
Everyone needs a hobby, I got into import building a few years before the fast and furious came out when it was mostly underground, I had a eagle talon and I thought it was the fastest thing, I was about 17yo, I remember a little hatchback pulled up next to me full of people and we raced and that car had me look like I was at a standstill, after talking he was in a car club called redline and I just got addicted to modding little cars, as time went on popularity exploded so it was like all my friends had the same need for performance.
#LifeGoals
I don't even have a rotary engine but enjoy watching these videos till the end :)
I cant have one but i love these videos too
I love to see someone take this much pride in their work
The stud kit certainly increases the rigidity of the engine block assembly, but I have a minor correction to make: The alignment pins aren't _supposed_ to support the torsional load on the engine block components. That load is _supposed_ to be supported by the friction between the engine block components themselves, as the components are clamped together with a large amount of force, thus generating a large amount of friction between them. The problem is, those tension bolts are single-use stretch bolts, and over years of heat-cycling the stretched portions of the bolts elongate just a _tiny_ bit, decreasing the clamping force and allowing the engine block components to slip past each other under heavy loads. THAT is when the torsional load gets transferred to the alignment pins, and the cracking that occurs around the alignment pin holes is a clear indicator that those holes were never designed to support that particular load.
TL;DR: The stud kit is a good idea, but for a _slightly_ different reason than this video describes.
I really am amazed by the stash of rotary engine parts in the background.......wish I had them.
Always love rotary engine reminds me in the young years I still miss my 1982 rx7 rebuild Bridgeport that’s was my best toy ever..
This was oddly soothing.....and informative- right on!
Colin Hendry l
Your videos make me fall in love with rotary engines more and more everytime. Thanks for the posting these and keep up the good work!
I truly enjoyed your video and I have a passion to learn how to build the rotary engine in street and race application. I'm a huge fan of the rotary and I have an RX 4 that I'm about to restore.
Now I know where I'm sending my next engine to (20b)
Would be our pleasure
Nice work and explanation of your build and honesty hopefully one day I will have my 13b rebuild by someone that has your knowledge.
Thanks for the tip with the Hylomar
+Nigel Wankel You're welcome. Hope you liked the vid. If so please like, subscribe and share
Nigel Wankel
i like how clean and detail he is with he's build's ....i wish i had one of he's build enjines. .
Happy to do one for ya. Glad you liked it
Man you guys make it look so easy but i know you have been doing it a long time
0:14 seconds in....
MAN-- just LOOK at all those fantastic housings & rotors behind him on the shelves....holy smoke.
If I EVER bite the bullet and buy something with a 13B in it, I am ABSOLUTELY either getting these guys opinions on stuff, or better yet, I'm bringing my motor TO them, so they can do all the good stuff I would need done.
very interesting video for mazda rotary engine fans very good
100%
Thanks. I've always been interested by the rotary engine. Now that my boys are older I'm looking to put something together with them. I think a rotary might be the way to go. Thanks for these videos. They will be invaluable as time goes on for my project!
Glad i could help
Always been fascinated by these engine's. But scared of them at the same time. All I've ever heard was bad things about them. But after 17 years of working on cars, I've come to a point in life where I want something different. I believe that any engine, done right, can produce high power and reliability. Ready to dable in these. Great video, I have a lot to learn still.
So how's it going? I want to get into rotaries so how'd it go for you?
Your dad sounds cool. Mine moved away so i bought a 1st gen with s513bt conversion. Back in 2001 at 18yrs old in nsw.
learned alot. Enoyed the video. appreciate your using a mic on your person instead of the camera mic. makes a big difference in clarity. closeup shots of the assembly were really helpful. please post more.
New vid just released
I would love to see a how to video on how to assemble a rotary engine. Love your take and quality of work.
Your engine builds are so fascinating !
Awesome video. Extremely informative.
loved it, good inside look (dat 1/8th of a turn past the click lol)
Thank you for taking such care in the assembly of these engines. It gives your customer (incl me) to have greater faith that you and Mike will do all the needful thing to make a strong engine. I plan to have you folks to assemble an airplane engine when I can. We have spoken on the phone once. It was nice to meet you. Did you say that you recommend using 2mm not 3mm apex seals? How much more lasting wear do you get when using the ceramic apex seals compared with your best other treated apex seals? My engine will not be using ultra high revs; just maybe 4,000 rpm on take-off and climbing to my desired altitude?
If you drop a tip on that back rotor when facing down, get a strong magnet and run a old apex own it to magnetize, fetch it out.
love your work and love the way you explain the y for.
Thank you!
Sick video bro! Super good info here!
I am going to post this video everywhere so people know you're the rotary guru!
+Ali Mohamed Thanks Ali
I built a 12a with a 13b se center iron full Bridgeport I used rx2 double sided side seals with the 9mm carbon apex seals currently ran out of money to go fuel injected reason for the se center iron but its running good with a 48 Weber wish I studed my motor
Hey guys, love this video! can i ask what brand of spex seals you used?
There is some amazing information in this video and I am really glad you all take the time to post some builds and share some professional knowledge. One question though, is there any way to strengthen an FD/series 5/20b rotors, you mentioned they are weaker and tend to dent under big boost?
Yes the heavy duty rotors which were used in two of the videos we aired
在庫の凄さに驚き、加工の独創性に驚愕しました
凄いですね、ポートをマニシングで削り出すとか驚きです
ローターも削って軽量化とか、ハウジングの加工も面白いです
逆に思ったのが、アペックシールとかサイドシールとかの
クリアランスとか材質とかの疑問点ですけど、見に行かないと判らないかな？
that was beautiful
You like a pretty smart guy, I thought I would shoot this idea past you. I used to have a Suzuki motorcycle I also used to have a few rx-7s. I never came up with this idea in till just recently as a truck driver I became interested in the RX-9. What if the RX-motors didn't have side ports? What if the RX motor had the same size port as the exhaust port or slightly longer or taller just above the exhaust where the intake is now but at 10 or 2 o'clock depending on what side you look at. It would get a great deal more air than it does now. As the rotor pulls away it would suck in more air than the side port. Also a reed valve would be just inside the intake port to prevent any exhaust gas from going back through the intake port on the exhaust stroke of the rotor... It would be basically be like a two stroke motor in a rotary design instead of a piston design, the best of both worlds... I think it would work? Of course the that whole side of that motor would have to be redesigned, but think of the power. It could change it's fuel wastfulness problem...
I also shot this Idea past Wesley Mahler...
Ever seen a peripheral port Mazda rotary? They are done similar to what you are talking about. We use them all the time
Excellent work guys love your videos
I've got the Snap-On CG500 stud remover/installer, best thing ever for putting studs in and out of cases. Damn expensive though, $110 when I bought mine 12 yrs ago. As for Hylomar, ir was developed by Rolls Royce and designed to be 'safe' if it gets into lubrication system. I guess you've never seen the damage done by silicon rubber when it goes through bearings?
We didn't say Mazda developed Hylomar, we explained how it was recommended to be used on rotary engines, as for the silicone, we do not apply silicone in combination with the rubber o rings, all rubber o rings are designed to go on dry
RX7 Specialties I'm a motorcycle /motorcycle engine specialist. The problem with silicon is it beads up and can/will block passageways. It may not be a problem on rotary but on engines with high pressure lube systems it' can be a major issue when an oil passage or jet gets blocked. That was my point about Hylomar, I know you didn't say anything about Mazda developing it
You bet silicone can cause issues and this is why gaskets and O-rings are meant to go on dry. The silicone is used only to seal the bottom legs. It does not go anywhere near galleries. Hylomar has its intended use for early engines but should be phased out on 86 up engines and has further place in the rotary industry, There is no need for it. Most places who sell it encourage the user to use it to hold the or-rings in place which is just a horrible practice and is completely unnecessary
awesome engine work . i love these video's
+gordie french thankyou for watching
How much engine like this cost you guys doin all the work?
Hi, Great Video!! What would be the cost of that motor? Thanks.
Hi Adam, what glue did ya use for corner pieces?
Video on how to cut and fit side seals is a popular request.
Great build video. Why not do all the studs with the back housing off? It should be easier to tighten them and make aligning the back plate easier. Also, why not have an Allen port in the end of the stud so it can be tightened with a Allen key type wrench? Thanks for your patience with my questions.
There are 5 studs which cannot be tightened in place with the installation tool when the rear iron is in place. The allen key size is too small to torque to spec. Maybe if the machine work was done with an oversize drill bit and a hand drill like some of the sloppy stud kits offer the iron would slide on easily through all 18 spots. But when your clearance is .1mm (proper optimum clearance) like we perform, the iron can bind and wont slide down easily. In actual fact there is no need to install any studs prior other then the one I spoke of
hey man, just a heads up your settings are set to 'youtube kids' therefore comments are blocked on your newest videos. 👍🏽
oops thank you i changed that now
Are the side plate re-coated before assembly or do you leave them bare metal after lapping?
great video , now I will have to save money for rotary swap in my NC Miata like Mad Mike , lol
I was very surprised when you turne the motor over i did not hear the intake nor compression sounds like all the other videos I’ve watch today. They build them very similar an afterngoing around circle for torc check many would turn engine over cpl revolutions an could clearly hear the sucking an blowing sound.
i sure dont know what hylamar is....but i sure have used a ton of Hondabond on my B18s ...and everything else.....and i see you used it on your bad ass rotary build.....give Honda a shoutout...!!!! LOL...
Damn talking rotary is like Greek to me, but well explained and now I'm a rotary expert, thanks!
Nah bro, rotary engines are like quantum mechanics. Nobody on earth is really an expert, because there's so much chaotic variation from one combustion cycle to the next. All you can really do is overbuild them and hope for the best.
I didn't see any sealant on that back plate bottom legs. Or is it not needed?
always learn something here.
Keisuke Takahashi would be proud.
awesome video im looking into buying my first rotary motor car looking to buy a 09-11 rx8 since it has a third oil port seeing as the 04-08 had a loss of compression
from wear only having two oil ports making the motor wear very quickly. is this correct. also you make building these look easy I hope my first tear down and rebuilt will be as easy thanks guys
Just use premix in the fuel...helps alot! Highly recommended for any Rotary
Extra oil is Never a bad thing. For people who own the 04-08 I strongly recommend adding premx to the tank. About 1/3rd to 1/2 L per tank. I would suggest you do the leaner of the 2...1/3rd L even on the 08-11
I am planning on building an s4 t2 engine with one of your kits and am wondering which apex seals you would recommend. I am planning on running premix and because the car will be a daily cruiser/corner carver i am going to keep it around 300hp. Just curious any thoughts? Also wondering what it would cost to have the rotors lightened and balanced as well as the irons street ported.
Well naturally Id recommend you use our REC treated seals. I love ceramics too but pricey!!
RX7 Specialties . Hello, Great video and build. One thing though wouldn't it be possible to put a Allen hex hole in the middle of the studs to make installation easier.
Just an idea. You could use a speed brace. Nice porting on the end plates. With a longer bridge it would be a awesome n/a engine.
Like all you videos. I have built alot of engines but all pre 85 models. My engines are all n/a 13b and 12a,s . Last engine was a 13b pp with 55mm Ida throttle body and Microtech. We ended up with 296 HP at the wheels. In a 800 kg RX3 Circuit race car on slicks It's alot of fun. Just found your channel and subscribed. Cheers from Queensland Australia.
awesome video, these are really helpfull. I just got 1 good question that i wanted ti kniw for some time now, and it is what are the best factory 13B's and 12A's engines out there for like building power? and why if its ok. Thanks in advance. :)
+Dark Winter There is really only 1 12a so no difference. The RE Cosmos block flows the best but as seen in the video, we can get any Turbo block to flow.
Great video, thank you
you did not pre-lube the rotor bearing ? Do you pressurize the oiling system before starting?
Couple of things.. When machining and lapping the plates, do you also correct the depth for the water seals? No mention of nitriding.. If someone is concerned with durability and has already paid for studding, surely they would want nitriding and probably cryogenic treatment also...? Couldn't you achieve a larger port size, flow and match with CNC?
The beauty of lapping is it only takes off tenths or a thou. Not nearly deep enough to compromise the nitrating. You are however correct if one was to surface grind the housings first. Then its too deep and yes you should most certainly have them re-done. As for CNC...yes you could do this. However unless you have a 5 axis machine it is merely impossible to CMM the profile and reproduce in one shot. You'd need to make 2 or 3 different jigs and re position the housing each time and for this...its not worth the time or money especially when there are many different port designs and many different generations or different factory port sizes. When you combine the tens of dozens of combinations and factor in that each port configuration is application specific the complications would make this inefficient. CNC will not allow for a larger port...just a way to reproduce the same port the exact same on another identical piece.
I love the information I'm hearing and seeing in this video. however, I have to ask, why did you port the bridges so close to the water jackets? They are cut within a few thou of the o ring lands and look fairly thin. Maybe it's just me, I don't know. I've ported a few 13B & 12A engines including my own and I stay within 1.6-2mm away from the o ring land. No talking about your port style, to each his own. I just saw that and had to ask about it.
I know it looks close but when we are notching the housing we want the max opening time. Its not a few thou its more like .015 but this is the coldest zone of the cooling system and the coolant walls dont break out there. When wall material does break out you'll see its always in the 5 O'clock to 7 O'clock position where the hot zones are. Remember, guys who do J bridge cut the coolant seal entirely and use sealer. I can promise our engine will never leak in this area. If one uses prestone corrosion wont occur. The reason you see rotted coolant walls ... especially in JDM engine...its from people being lazy or cheap and using straight water in the cooling system. Very good question and good eye too!!
does the cast iron edge crack off? as it's so thin?
I have pulled motors apart and seen this before when the pro f edge is too thin from the bridge porting.
Nice to see im not the only one who uses honda bond on rotary housings 😂
I have a dumb question, don't you need to use some kind of gasket in between all those plates??? How much would it cost to rebuild 1992 mazda rx7 engine??
Awesome can't wait for more videos
Just released a new one...check it out
Please do a video and footage of 13b engine bridge porting. I want to learn the process.
Video of our CNC bridge porting coming next week
What's different parts have rx7 to rx8 the two engine are 13B. But rx8 is it a renessis but internal what's part are compatibility and what's parts not ?,
U can mix part rx7 whit the renessis ?
maybe you have done this by now but why don't you have the studs made with allen key in the back end so that you can just use allen wrench to screw the studs down? Allen or torx......
Who tunes these for such insane power? Great video!
+Cam Steel Many tuners qualified to tune an engine like this one but the owner will be taking care of this one himself
your style of building engine than anyone I've seen on this site I never know stud could be used what is the back of my mind I was wondering if it could thank you for confirming it
Glad we could help
would you recommend using cryo treatments on the housing for more strength & durability or would you run the risk of clearance issues with the rotors etc??
Sone guys use it..I dont but there are other methods for treating metals
how much do that stud job cost including the parts ?
U got a Vancouver buddy now
Adam could you make a video explaining the oil modifications done to a rotary engine?
Not a bod idea. Ill work on it
quality content! if i did not remove my tension bolts in the correct order for my rebuild have i ruined them? #rebuildonabudget
No its fine they will stretch as necessary when you re-torque
when you guys do the lapping on the irons do they have to be re-coated with some of the material being removed? I admit I don't know anything on the process of lapping irons I'm only asking because I've read some people say it's a must others don't.
If one chooses to surface grind and deeply penetrate the nitrating then yes. Lapping removes tenths of a thou so not necessary.
i actually have a question or two, at the very start of assy, you put some kind of lube on the stationary gear? what was this called? Also. what type of silicone sealant are using or can i just use any old automotive silicone sealant? Many thanks for your time.
Phil.
Amsoil assembly lube. Mazda genuine or Hondabond works best
Upon torquing the studs to specs, is there any shrinking to the studs?
how much for a rebuilt engine for a rx8 2004 or how much to rebuilt one if i take the engine out and take it to you
Love your videos.
Thankyou
Would polishing the ports as well as combustion chambers help with flow? i would assume so. I built a 13b quite a while back, studded it (which NO ONE was doing at the time) and got a ton of power from just a port and polish on the ports.
Polishing the chambers will not have an effect on flow and there would be no gains whats so ever. Porting and polishing the ports makes a big difference is many applications hence the reason we do it...so absolutely understand why you noticed it with your engine
Very good you are great
Why use lube on only one side of rotar and not lube between the e-shaft and rotar
Hie there, i need your help am in Botswana (Africa) i need to buy engine rebuilt Kit and i want to order through Ebay. am confused now because the is 4 port and 6 port kit all i know is that mine is just manual 6 gear. i have been following on youtube and you helped me a lot on my car. the car wont start now (low Compression). Thank you.
What school or book did u study on. I want to rebuild rotories, any help please.
Where you located I am interested and what is the cost?
Which 13 series is the best to build up NA a 13b or a Renesis? What is the max NA horsepower possible? How do you feel about Aquamist vs using alcohol ?
13B peripheral exhaust is best, sadly renesis is not a great flowing engine
nice tattoo m9 and good video
Great vid. I have an 84 gsl se and I would like to know if you can use s5 non turbo rotors on a stock engine from a gsl se
Yup favorite rotors to use on all NA's..especially SE
RX7 Specialties
So no special machining required? And about how much more power increase with the stock RE EGI coupled with a full 2 into 1 Racingbeat exhaust?
No machining requ'd nope
Studs should’ve been standard equipment on rotary engines from the Mazda. You guys should have the manufacturer of your studs make a hex at one end of the stud to help with installation.
This is great! Also, I believe you skipped a stud at 33:00.
Maybe while filming but we always go back and re-do the torque sequence in case of a missed bolt.
What was the cost of this build?? Love to know.??
Something that I can't seem to wrap my head around, how is the rotor connected to the eccentric shaft? It doesn't look like the rotor itself has 'gears' to solidly connect it to the shaft of the engine, how does it transfer the torque to it?
there is a rotor gear i suggest searching for animated demonstrations that can be viewed on the internet, there are plenty of them
Thanks for your reply, I managed to figure it out ;)
whenever you actually do one, i would be really curious to a peripheral port engine, especially on a 3 or 4 rotor engine
Actually we have plans to do something even cooler and rarely ever done...we are doing a PP 10a. In the works. We will definitely film it when closer
Can the 20B also get the studding process? What would the price difference be on a 500-bhp 20B street motor?
+Bryan Hallman Yes but it is not done on all tension bolts as the bolts on a 20B go different directions in different lengths but yes we do have a through stud race kit and cost will depend on std stud kit or race stud kit. 20B is much more complicated
great channel
Thanks
approximately what would be the cost of this engine but without the bridge port and just going with a NA build instead of turbo,, keeping all the reliability upgrades, the primary porting, all the bigger seals. I want something I can really get on and beat up without worry of blowing out a seal or popping a stud but want to look at getting a good hp number from NA tuning (want to see 400-450 but may settle with a 350whp if it becomes too extensive to get over it)
Email me and I will gladly discuss the breakdown of all costs. adam@rotaryengine.com
nice. the 2ndary bridge is very close to the seal. might not be too reliable. the primary had a better gap
It is close yes but its the cold zone. There is no Comb press there. As long as prestone is used and the cooling system doesnt rot it will be fine. Used this template for years.
Why don't you just use a solid corner seal? just out of curiosity.
We often do but if its a bridge engine solid corners can damage the bridge so not worth it. Good question though
just to go further. the corner seal moves over the bridge part of the port. otherwise it would fall out. and as the rotor sweeps over it can get caught on the lip
The bridge supports the end of the apex seal and the corner seal. Thats its actual function
But looking at the profile of modified rx8 corner with insert to rx7 atkins solid corner, the profile isn't that much different, bit more material on top to spread the pressure from corner seal spring maybe? Or is there some specific reason why bride would get damaged with solids but not these?
DEEREMEYER1 u talk way to much
do you guys also perform strength mods for the rx8s? aswelll bridgeports? thank you.
Yes but unless you are turbocharging its not necessary
Where do we send our engines ? do you have any locations in Northern California?
Our only location is in Calgary Canada, but we can arrange truck shipping, we do it every month
Would polishing the inside of intake ports do any improved intake flow or it's not worth doing it?
The runners are polished. Thats all that is needed
Do you sell the modified corner seals? What kind of machining do I need to mill out that 2mm?
Yes we sell them
How has this engine been doing so far since the build?
absolutely amazing!! This customer had one of our engines previously in his car which was similar but only a half bridge, this full bridge engine with the extra upgrades netted him an additional 160RWHP and he shaved almost a full second off of his quarter mile time
how much boost is this able to handle?
Why didn’t you put assembly lube on crank bearings?
It was done in advance to save time in the video