LG WT1101CW Washing Machine IE Error Drain Pump Runs - 3 Month Update - Board Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 6 май 2020
- This is an update on a how-to video on a low-budget repair that I made to my LG WT1101CW top loading washing machine when the machine stopped mid-cycle and displayed the IE error with the water drain pump running continuously. This problem would even persist if i unplugged the washing machine and plugged it in again. I believe that the WT1201CV and WT1201CW are similar models that suffer this problem, as well. After performing this repair weekly for 3 months, the fix stopped working and I had to replace the circuit control board (LG Part Number EBR76262102).
Here is the link to the factory service manual to those models that i referenced in the video: drive.google.com/file/d/19Q8s...
The factory service manual references several repairs for the IE error, but they all relate to a water inlet error, which could be caused by clogged inlet screens, kinked fill hose, or the water turned off. it does not, however, address the error when it is accompanied by a drain pump running continuously. I suspect that the IE sensor must be related to the volume of water entering the tub in a given amount of time. It's not expecting that the drain pump would be turned on, so the control board thinks that the reason there is not enough water in the tub is because there is something wrong with the water inlet. In reality, the reason that the tub can't fill up with water is because the machine drains the tub as quickly as it comes in!
This repair uses simple tools found in most homes and an hour of your time. I go through the sourcing process that I used to find the cheapest price on the internet for EBR76262102 as well as a suggestion to save you even a few more dollars.
Please be careful when working with electronics, making sure to unplug your washing machine prior to doing anything. If you are not comfortable doing any of this, please find someone to help you that is.
Also, if this was helpful, please like this video with the thumbs up. If you are interested in more budget repairs and DIY projects, please subscribe to my channel by clicking that subscribe button. I have some pretty cool content already uploaded and a lot more coming in the future. Thanks so much! - David 
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Great video! Thank you. I was pulling my hair out and you saved me $800 with this. I miss the days when stuff just worked instead of having all this needlessly complicated crap that inevitably goes wrong.
Great job!
I hear ya’! I would even pay more if I could find something less complicated that JUST WORKED! I don’t need my washing machine to be able to connect to the internet. I just need it to wash my dang clothes!
Thank you! Both of your videos were super helpful! I just heard the LG chimes of successfully replacing the control board and an actual cycle being completed 🎉 Though you’ve moved on, your video and easy to follow directions saved us lots of time and cash! I appreciate you sharing your time and talent with us!!!
Absolutely, Stephanie! So happy I could help! Great job on saving all that money!!!🤑🤑🤑
Yes, yes, thank you so much for this. The sound of the machine working again is marvelous!! The technician said the pc board must be replaced. I bought the thing and it is sitting on my dining room table for over a month!! Thank you so much, I couldn't call and pay again.
David, a big thank you from me! All too often with issues on my OE error I was getting results about cleaning a filter and how easy it was when this model doesn't have one. Between a video on a different channel on checking the pump, your video and the factory service manual link you gave all the resources needed for me to confirm the pump was working and not clogged, the sensor was reading over 26 when testing, but my washer still wouldn't drain. I've got the control board now ordered and the current one disconnected and ready to be swapped out. I will add, I used a 2mm micro flathead screwdriver (from the iFixit tools), to push in between the plastic "fins" of the locking/guide piece and leverage up most of the connectors for a super easy removal of them; Only 1, the far left you started with at 5:20, took some finesse to work out of the plug lol
Again, thank you greatly for this video and info and I'll update once I get the PCB delivered within the next week and install it.
Thank you for your kind words and taking the time to comment!
Just wanted to say thank you. Your instructions were great and I did the same thing by not seating it right. Really appreciate you posting this.
Thanks, Jason. I’m really glad it helped.
Just want to thank you for this video. Very hard to find my model washer, thanks to you I changed mine and had it fixed and working in 15 minutes.
Good to hear! I’m glad it helped!
Thank you! Followed your guidance and have now successfully run two loads - thank you so much for this really clear and helpful info.
Thanks for your kind words, Peter. Glad the video(s) helped!
Thanks for this clear video to show how to install the new board. My problem was the opposite - the relay was not telling the drain pump to engage. I went slow and easy and still finished in 45 minutes. Working like it should now.
Happy to help. Great job!
Thank you sir for posting this. We had the exact same issue and model washing machine. Even though I purchase a new drain pump and replaced the old one. I now know how to fix the issue and will be purchasing a mother board now. Tapping the relay worked also. My wife says thank you!
Glad to help! Thanks for your comment!
Thanks for posting this video. I just ordered the board from the site you did. Saved at least $50 or more.
Thanks for watching and taking a moment to comment! I appreciate it!
Thanks so much for this and the previous "1st fix" video. I found both of these over 2 years ago when my washer got hung up on the drain cycle and wouldn't stop. I followed the instructions from the first video and was able to reset things successfully. Just in case, I went ahead and ordered the replacement motherboard and it has been sitting in the box unopened since them. Last night, I went down to switch over some laundry and the drain was going again. I was pretty pleased to get 2 years out of the tap fix to reset the board before. But decided to go ahead and just replace the board fully now. I was able to switch it out without any issues thanks to your detailed video. I really really appreciate your help with this and hopefully giving my washer a whole new life!
Wonderful story, Mark! I love it when a plan comes together! I’m amazed that you got 2 years out if that first fix and glad that you had the new motherboard in the kitty, on standby! Thanks so much for reaching out and sharing your story. Have a great Holiday Season!
Best Regards,
David
@markleds now that its been two years since you replaced the board, is your washing machine still good? i'm trying to determine if i should buy a board or just replace the machine. thanks.
@@peteark1985 2 years and still going strong. Just sold the house (with washer in it) a month and a half ago but have had zero issues since replacing. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the info. Watched your first video and it has fixed my problem....for now. Using on borrowed time it sounds like. I’ll be preparing for the inevitable circuit board change. $200 for circuitboard is a lot cheaper than having to buy a new $900 washer.
Awesome! Glad it worked...for now! If you want to subscribe and hit the bell, you’ll get a notification when i post my next video on the unit. I appreciate you taking the time to comment!
From Québec, Canada, Thank you for both videos!!!!!!!!!!!!
Happy to help! Stay warm!
THANKS for the great tips, helped the whole main board replacement project,
Awesome! That’s great!
Worked like a charm! Thank you so much.
Woohoo!
Thank you for the information! Life saver! Awesome video bro!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for all the information!! We have been having this problem to.
Sorry for your luck, but glad to help!
This totally worked! Thanks!
I cleaned the filters, gave it a bunch of thumps on the top. Still didn't work. Oh...forgot to turn the water back on. Now works great. Thanks for the video!
Ha! That’s great! Thanks for reaching out.
Did the trick for my wt4970cw. Thanks!
Fantastic!
Thank you. I could not have done it without your tips for each step. Definitely would have gotten frustrated and broken the case that holds it and the wire connectors without guidance.
My pleasure. Everything working ok, now?
Thanks for a great video.
Unfortunately after a couple of months, I had to replace the board too. Thanks for helping me save some money in repairs because the board alone was $240. So if I had to pay a repairman, it would have been better to buy a new machine.
Glad to help!
I really appreciate this video. My nephew’s washer just had this issue and I was very skeptical that simply tapping the relays would solve it, but it did! I went a step further and wired in a Red Lion SNUB0000 arc suppressor across the pump wires. I’m hoping it will prevent it from recurring. Apparently LG is either using an undersized relay or don’t have any arc suppressor in the circuit board design.
That’s a great idea! Please let us know how that works out!
I ended up having to replace the circuit board after the first trick didn’t work anymore (I got two runs, which got me the couple months extra) and after replacing the board (same model as yours) I’m good to go again. Thank you!
Great news, Guy! Good work!
@guypotts5654 now that its been two years since you replaced the board, is your washing machine still good? i'm trying to determine if i should buy a board or just replace the machine. thanks.
Along with some other posters, I had the opposite problem, my tub would not drain because my pump would not turn on. The root cause was the same though, a sticky relay, but stuck off in my case. My belief is that LG knows about this issue since they have updated the control board part number. It used to be EBR76262102 and now it is EBR75857902. It will cost you about $250 if you overnight the part from LG. If you're really handy, you can put the washer into diagnostic mode and use a multimeter to see if the board is sending power to the pump. Mine was not, so I knew the board was to blame. Thank you David, for the informative video. I was a bit more gentle, and broke different tabs than you, lol.
Thanks for your analysis and additional information! I got cracked up when you said you were more gentle and broke different tabs! Ha! Good stuff! Best of luck with the washer and the new board, if that’s the route you take.
Thanks work just fine for me 👏🏻
Nice fix👍
Too Many Hobbies thanks! Hope it helped!
Thank you!
Omg my I can not thank you enough ! I did this my self save me 600 dollars !
Good job, Adrianna! Way to go!
Thank you so Much.... IT WORKED!!!!!
That’s awesome! Good job, my friend!
Well, you just saved us $350. Thanks!!
Glad to help!
Works great! Maybe I will get another 6 years out of this CP!!
I wish Toyota start making washing machines, thanks for sharing this great video diy
I hear you! Toyota should start making a LOT of things!
Hi David - I have been whacking my relays for a couple months and decided to get a board tonight. I ended up using the company you mentioned in the video - did they send you a new unit or was it remanufactured? I just realized a few minutes ago I had bought a remanufactured board from them (I didn’t read the fine print I guess).
Mine was remanufactured, as well. Mine ended up throwing an OE Error and I sent it back to them for a refund.
Is yours working ok?
Thank you for this
For sure. Glad to help.
Thanks for the video! Needed to know how to get to the board, I'm getting a dE error tried replacing the locking mechanism now I'm checking the wiring. I've got a question regarding the lock, does the plastic door lock attached to the lid have a magnet on it? Mine looks like it might have had something circular on the bottom but it's gone now. Wondering if I just need to replace that...
Man, I just don’t remember. I have since moved on to a new washer from Samsung. Glad the video helped a little.
I'm so glad you didn't get power the first time you put it back together. We had the same problem and you should us how to fix that when the board wasn't in the rite place and wasn't getting any power. I know it want on purpose but that small mistake actually helped me. I took it apart again and sure enough I saw the gap. Kinda funny to say but that you for your mistake lol. It saved us from buying a new washer! God works for the good to all those who love Him! In ALL things give Him praise!
I’m glad my mistake helped you! That is really the beauty of youTube. Thank you for your inspiring words. This is the day that the Lord has made. We will rejoice and be glad in it!
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 you helped me too lol. Mine is finally giving me the same code after about 3 months. I'm going to see if i get lucky a 2nd time. Thanks so so much!!!@
Wow! Your first fix sure lasted a long time. Toward the end, i was doing the relay tapping dance once a week or more!
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 yeah I'm thinking it was about 3 months. I just did it again and I'm hoping it works again. If not I'll just change it out. Does yours give you problems with ue all the time. Uneven. I hate this washer lol
I did have the ue error, but was able to use a level and the adjustment screws on the feet to calm that one down. I have since moved on to a new unit, a samsung.
Very nice and great video and sir I have lag top load inverter direct drive washing machine when I plug machine jurking and some time working so please help me for Ae error ,which part I change for AE error
video very good
Thank you
Thank you for this. It will help us make an informed decision on going forward. Would love to know the life expectancy on these LE washers. We bought ours in 2014. I was leery of the “electronics” aspect to begin with.
No problem. I wish somebody would come out with a new “dumb” washing machine that just WORKS!
I purchased mine in 2014 too. It’s now been having this IE issue.
I have OE error code.
The pump works well, supplied power directly from the pump, but I turn on the wash cycle, when it comes to rinsing, the pump does not turn on and electricity is not supplied to it, do you think this could be a problem in the Control board???
The washing machine is the same as yours in the video
My washer WT1201CV does not give me an error code, it does however hang up after the wash/drain and there seems to be a power surge making the control panel lights flicker as the drain pump kicks in. I've already replaced the drain pump and the pressure switch, so I'm thinking the PCB. I would like to hear your opinion/suggestion. Thanks.
Sounds like maybe a failing capacitor in the pcb or it could be this same relay failing in a different way. I would change the pcb.
I have a question?! I watched your first video and went through the process as my drain would not stop running just like yours. Since I tapped on the relays, now it will not drain at all. The drain pump will not turn on. Do you think the chances are still the electric panel? Or should I change the pump instead…or also?!
I would not change the pump. Start with the board. That seems to be everyone’s problem. There have been other posts on this video saying that they changed the pump first, to no avail.
So I have been working on this LG WaveForce top loader as I was saying.
Aside for what I already mentioned I noticd couple of other problems. Out of balance and over filling.
I busted my brain trying to figure it out.
Came to realize, not paying attention I had replaced two of the suspensions of slightly different lengths. Two rods were half inch longer than the other two.
So aside from having worn suspension two other things can cause suspension to cause out of balance condition.
1. Not all 4 rods having the same tension if you will. Not good.
2. Not all being the same length. Not good.
So this not only will cause out of balance condition but also overfilling condition. Why?
Because as the machine ( especially these WaveForce), they also spin when washing, which is where the force is coming from. Water tornado if you will.
The computer recieves changing non-equal magnetic flex in the rotor/stator field due to change in angular velocity/ i.e. spinning/rotating action. This is how the so called out of balance sensing is done. Causing the computer to pour water in. Since everything floats in water, it makes for balancing. If it is not enough it will pour more water.
And there you have it. Out of balance and full of water.
And with these machines spinning also is done although not in full spin mode... the spin is fast enough to throw water right out of the top. Not good. :-)
So that is how all that problem is created.
And on second note. The water level can also be adjusted although it won't help with the situation above as those condition supercedes the water level adjustement. So don't try it.
These water level sensor works based on frequency. The plastic screw on top although appears sealed, it is just to keep it from moving due to vibration... can be rotated clockwise ( screws inward) for more water and counterclockwise ( screws outwards as in it will come out if you just keep going) for less water.
Inside these sensors are an inductor and two little capacitors. The inductor are wound around the cyclinder cavity with that screw on top end and at the bottom end is a ferrite sitting on a diaphram. The clear water hose is connected to that diaphram. As the air pushes up the ferrite, the induction value goes up and the frequency goes down. The sensor is supplied by low side of the control board, i.e. pulses of 5 VDC.
When one moves out the screw it makes the ferrite go further up the cavity of the inductor causing higher induction, lower frequency and if the opposite cause higher frequency. When empty, the frequency is at maxium.
The computer is dumb as you could say. It can not tell the difference between water level and reading frequency in the sensor. It only knows the frequency as the water level.
Therefore one is basically fooling the computer, telling it there is plenty water or not enough.
Water level has no relationship to the amount of load, to a certain extent.
Larger load based on weight and which translates to motor drawing more amperage when testing the load determines what frequency the module needs to read.
When water comes down, only that causes the air to push up the clear hose.
[LG WavForce machines due to their spinning action during wash cycle do not require too much water as far as I am concerned. You can hear the water swirling up and down. It is a good thing to make a note of]
Up to couple of inches, no air moves up the hose. So the minimum water level even if the basket empty of cloth, one can expect 2 to 3 inches of water.
And that is the moral of the story.
David, what does the relay you tap on look like. I don’t want to be hitting on all the components.
Blue with white sticker
I have a code OE which is the machine will not pump water out or go into the spin cycle. I replaced the pump but it continues to do the same thing. It will not switch to the spin cycle and pump the water out even though I changed the pump. If I unplug the machine for a day and plug it back in and hit the spin cycle it will pump the water out and spin. It will only finish the cycle after a day being unplugged. Any ideas?
This same exact OE error problem developed for me after replacing my board. The only way that I could get my tub to drain was put the old board back in. I ended up sending the refurbished board back and getting a refund. Tired of error codes, I put this unit on the back patio for later analysis and bought a new washing machine.
Thanks for the post! Just wondering if it's still working? Just installed a new board today and the error came up again, got ours from Amazon.
After I changed my board, I started getting an OE error, and the drain pump would not turn on. I sent the board back to Walmart and got my money back. I replaced the unit with a Samsung. So far so good.
After I changed my board, I started getting an OE error, and the drain pump would not turn on. I sent the board back to Walmart and got my money back. I replaced the unit with a Samsung. So far so good.
After I changed my board, I started getting an OE error, and the drain pump would not turn on. I sent the board back to Walmart and got my money back. I replaced the unit with a Samsung. So far so good.
Did this finally work for you or should I just get another washing machine?
Mine would have worked, but the “new” board i bought was also faulty. I threw in the towel and got a new unit.
David my LG WT1101CW power went out on my washer, i tried all the trouble shoots online to reset my washer and nothing. Machine wont turn on, do you recommend replacing the board????
No, don’t do that. Unplug the unit, press start/pause button for five seconds, and plug the unit back in. Let me know if that dodn’t work.
Our cycle selection button stopped working. Would this fix it?
First, I would make sure that the cycle selection button on the board is actually getting pressed by the outside cover. If the actual button on the board is nonresponsive, then “yes”, I believe replacing the board with a new one would fix it.
How long did the tapping trick fix it ?
It worked about 3 months for me, but others have had better luck, maybe getting a year or more.
So I have the same washer and I replaced the drain pump because it wasn’t draining and it still won’t drain after the new pump was in. Do you think it’s the control board as well.
It sure sounds like it. You aren’t getting any error codes, correct?
Budget Projects by David I was getting the code OE so I took the pump out and checked for clogs in it along with the hoses. Everything was fine. I bought a new pump just to ease my mind and it still won’t drain.
I understand and I am 99.9% confident that your problem is in the control board. I ordered and received a faulty control board with this same issue and OE error code. The drain pump would not drain at all until I reinstalled the original control board with an IE error (drain pump runs continuously). A new board should fix your issue.
You referred to beating a relay free… is this “relay” different than the water inlet relays?
Do you mean water inlet VALVES? These are different. These are relays located on the circuit board. The water inlet valves are not.
So our LG topload started just having display issues, fluttering lights, lights going out but washer still running, etc. then, eventually, just stopped working altogether, although the music would play, nothing would light up and no buttons allowing any selections. So we replaced the entire main circutboard, and still nothing.
Anyone have any advice?
I would check all of the electrical connections that you can see, making short you don’t have any broken wires or accidental shorts to ground.
I wanna kno how to disacticate CL
Did ya figure out which relay goes to the pump
In short, “no”. If you read through the comments, you will see another viewer’s tests, which seem to disprove our theory that it was the big relay with the white sticker on it.
I finally had to change out the control board when hitting the relay stopped working. Now my machine won't even turn on! I checked the connections multiple times, did a hard reset and flipped the circuit. Any ideas on what the problem might be?
Bad control board? Can you swap the old one back in to see if it works again? Really hard to say what it would be or how to test. Not sure what test equipment you have access to and how comfortable you are with electronics.
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 actually after hitting the relay on the old control board as I've done before, the washer did not turn on at all. Then I replaced with the new one and still would not turn on. so I'm assuming now that it's an issue with one of the wires/connectors? I think I've reached the limit of my fix-it abilities!
It’s hard troubleshooting electronics without a voltmeter and schematics. We all have our limits. I’m sorry that the new control board didn’t fix your problems.
Hi, I don't know if you will even see this message. I got this washer from my Mom. Since I have installed it at my house. I no longer get the end of cycle signal. I am also having a problem where sometimes I get enough water in it and other times I don't get enough to even wet all of the clothes that I put in. Which is only a 1/2 of a tub. If you can help me out with 1 or both of my problems. I would truly appreciate it? Thanks, Mary
Hi mary, i know your post was a while ago, but have you tried to set the soil level to a higher one? These smart washers use the selected cycle to determine how soiled the clothes are, and are designed to save water. Also they "load sense " to see how many clothes are in the drum, which is directly related to how much water it uses. I hope this helps.
Pushing them tabs with a flat head screwdriver and with a long nose plyer grabing the plugins saves a lot of aggrevation.
Okay back to my problem.
So I was keenly aware that when the pump came on on this LG of mine, it only came on when it was time for it ( as in putting it in spin only cycle) and then it won't turn off. So right there I knew it was not a stuck relay.
Also it ended up that I had lost any chime sound when I turned on the unit.
The machine would start sensing, the motor move back and forth few times and then it would stop with the sensing light blinking and beyond that nothing happened. Water valves will not open and of course the machine will just remain on with no time advancing.
When putting it on diagnostic mode, it would pass all the test. Except when it came time for pump to turn on, it won't of course turn off until the diagnostic was finished.
I brought the chime sound back to working. How? I unplugged the cord and then I pushed the start ( not the power) button for a couple of seconds. And that made the chime sound back to working.
After running the machine few more times on diagnostic test ( just because), at one juncture I noticed something rather different. When I had finished the test, the last one, step 10 was spin mode. While it was spinning, I simply pushed the button to just advance and shut off. The machine turned off and the door unlocked. I opened the door only to see something unusual.
Only the basket was spinning and not the wash plate. Incidently at that time just by sheer absent mindedness I had left a blanket inside. When the wash plate was in spinning, the blanket had made contact with the drum and that friction had caused the drum to spin. So when the machine was off, the drum was spinning along with the blanket. I guess it was mutual friendship between the blanket and the drum.
A very long story short.
Not only it needed a clutch but the part that engage and disengage with the clutch fork was frozen. So its spline was worn and it also was frozen due to just gunk/dirt.
I could not take the rotor out. It ended up that I had to drill out the center hub to remove the rotor. Then I had to use a gear puller to remove the center hub from the shaft.
I also had to break the clutch fork to get enough room to put the fingers on the arm of the gear puller on the center hub. Even with a heavy duty gear puller it did some doing to pull the center hub out of the shaft.
Then I removed the clutch.
It is a good thing that I had replacement from long ago machine that I had taken apart and saved all that. An exact match.
Problem solved.
Holy crap! You’re amazing!
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 I wouldn't try to find that in any diagnostic manuals.
Here is one that defy explanations.
With one of them Maytag/Whirlpool/Kenmore washing machines ( you know they are all really the same washing machine, just different names). The ones with the dial knob and them 6 or so little lights under it. The typical grearcase as it is the term for their transmission.
To make long story short. The pump wouldn't come on. I replaced the pump, I replaced the entire control board from another working washing machine. I put it on drain and spin and the pump will not come on. And yes all the connections were good and shows continuity.
Now looking at the above statement, it should fill in all the details, in case one comes up with... what about this or that. And by the way it also implies that the machine has been unplugged to cover the reset of the machine aspect.
In other words, it looks like this. There is absolutely nothing wrong with any part of the washing machine and the pump will not come on. Finished. End of the story. In other words quit replacing things. :-)
Drain and spin.. the pump will not come on, only spin.
One more thing as if it might say something... hear this, it doesn't; in light of what I have just stated above. ( Nothing wrong with any part of the washing machine. I had removed the pump and the control panel from a perfectly good running washing machine. When that didn't do a thing, I removed them and installed the original back. Before installing another pump I had not check the original pump by directly connecting to power on the bench).
So:
[When testing for voltage to the pump, no voltage reading but very transient low AC voltage reading in the first 2 seconds.]
Okay, your move. What would you do? What would you say? :-)
I don’t know. I’m at a loss. I’m dying to know what you did.
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 Okay my friend brace yourself.
If you disrupt these machines just at the right juncture, pause, cancel etc, you can be dished out basically two symptoms. Yes, whoever knew.
Worse yet, remember the detail, a strange detail indeed. I said I had replaced the whole control panel with a working one and no success. How in the world could that be? Is there some other chip in the system that has retained the interruption memory? Oh my. And the answer is crazy yes. Get this, the clutch actuator, there is a chip in the critter, indeed. Remember it is what I had not replaced.
So what is up with the memory retention and behavior might you encounter? That is the question. The behavior in which disconnecting power can't fix of course. It retains, they designed it that way either knowingly or carelessly. I reckon it is the first one.
The behavior manifests itself where? Where might you ask? Yes believe it or not, of all things, the pump.
There are two types of this manifestation. 1. The pump won't run. 2. The pump keeps running.
The first symptom comes about when the pump does not come on. One either empty the dang thing by hand and then figures not to run the machine. Or do what I did, put it on drain and spin and of course if there is water in the machine still, one would see the pump not turn on to remove the remaining water. Or unplug it, take it outside, drain the water by just undoing the drain hose, put it on drain and spin and hear no pump coming on and do what I have already mentioned in my previous comment. In other words go nowhere.
The second symptom is the pump keeps running the instant one turns on the machine and pushes the start button. Diametrically the opposite of the first symptom if you will.
In fact I just got this fellow having brought a machine ( An amana) with this exact symptom. As I turned it on, put it on drain and spin, the machine's rinse signal came on and the pump was kicking. He said,,, see that is what I mean. It doesn't do anything.
The solution:
I will start with the last symptom. I told him,,, yes I see what you mean and I let the pump keep pumping. :)
The follow was wondering what I was going to do. I said, I am letting it go and see if the pump keeps going for the next 8 hours or for enternity. I winked, lets hope not.
After 4 minutes the pump stopped.
I unplugged the machine waited a minute and plugged it back in. Problem solved.
The solution to the first one, the one I had not encountered before.
Do not put the machine on drain and spin.
The machine wants to finish what it started to do. Unplug the machine and put it back on wash cycle..... Bingo.
Depending just exactly at what juncture the machine was interrupted, you will get one or the other symptom.
Typically the distruption that cause the problem is when it is interrupted just at the right time during when the machine is spinnning.
Moral of the story: Do not distrupt the machine while it is spinning.
If you want to distrupt the machine, do it only when it is filling for wash ( put your soup in) or filling during rinse ( put your fabric softner). Any other time you are playing russian roulette.
Cheers.
Wow! This is solid gold, right here! The complexity of the logic built into these machines is both impressive and frustrating. Nice work on your problem solving to discover this nugget of wisdom. Thank you for sharing your discovery with us!
Mine is showing the door sensor and doesn’t lock to wash they already changed the sensor and the board to send the information to the sensor and still not working 🤨 what can be
I couldn’t even begin to speculate. While the problem in my video is common, it’s not the only one plaguing these machines.
Hello! Love your videos. I hope you check your comments.
Can you PLEASE tell me how to get to the pressure sensor ?? I am so frustrated
Thank you.
How can i readjust the tub. One side is uneven. I always get ue
Lay a level across the top. Each corner had a footing that you screw to adjust.
I'll try that but the tub is like an inch more on one side then the other if you are looking down at it. Do you think adjusting the legs will fix that?
WHAT RELAY WERE U TAPPING ON TO MAKE IT WORK? I DONT HAVE THE MONEY FOR A NEW BOARD RIGHT NOW.
Blue one with the sticker
THANKS.. I FOUND ANOTHER VID THAT SHOWED ME WHICH 1.. AND IT WORKED.. THANKS BUNCHES. SO FAR SO GOOD. @@budgetprojectsbydavid5263
How do I find the model number or part number?
I don’t have that unit, anymore, so i can’t tell you exactly, but it should be somewhere on the unit. Open the lid, look around. Pull the unit out, check the back, check the sides. You can use the camera on your cell phone to help you “see” places behind the washing machine.
Hello, This is a firmware problem and not a hardware problem. You need to "Hard Reset" it or the same thing will happen again after a while even with the new motherboard. You must discharge the board complete which means discharging the 2 large cylinder-shaped capacitors by either tapping on the top of them lightly or if you really know electronics then you know you need to cross the connections coming from them. Beware, they can hold quite a wallop and work as a primitive battery as they hold a charge. Good luck! There is a video on youtube that explains the process better and much cheaper!
Interesting. I have since removed my LG from service, but other users might find this valuable. It’s a shame that there is no method of updating the firmware. A rubber insulated tool would be advised on discharging those large capacitors. Could you do us a favor and provide the link to that video?
The initial problem i was having was a stuck relay. Are you saying that the stuck relay is a firmware problem?
Can you link the video
I bought a new updated board with the new firmware. Model is EBR76262102. Would i still have to do what this person is saying
I read that you no longer have the LG. I’m curious, what did you buy? I having a hard time deciding on a new unit if I have to buy one. The reviews are driving me crazy.
Does it have A filter to clean?
There are some little plastic filters where the water connects, but mine weren’t clogged.
My filters clogg all the time because I have well water. It's always the cold water hose. Take the hose off, pull the little blue filter out, clean and put back in. Reattach hose. There are always little rocks in my filter.
mine was the drain hose was falling apart and leaky, had broken off at the top, was laying on the ground and leaking in 2 places. I will be using pic pipe as mine runs outside in the sun.
I have not heard of this cause for the drain pump running continuously. Interesting...Good luck with your fix!
The drain pump is not running, the drain hose leaking and being lower than the drain is siphoning the water out of the tank as fast as it can fill. So the washer never gets enough water to operate properly. What we noticed most was the washer kept getting out of balance and the ie code. Once the hose was fixed the problem was gone.
Ok, got it! That makes sense and I guess explains the little hose holder designed at the top of the washer. The hose needs some elevation to help keep the water from draining before it’s time. One would assume that the seals in the drain pump would be sufficient to prevent this, but I guess not. Thank you for your comments! Very helpful!
my drain hose runs through a thin wall to the out side into a pvc pipe into the septic tank, just redid all last night with pvc
Can you give me the link to the store
I don’t have the link. Maybe google seatch it or get it from walmart?
Instead of disassembly I have found that a heavy thump with the heel of the hand to the right of the display will jar the relay loose.
Thanks for sharing! I have actually tried that, but I never could find the sweet spot and I was always afraid of damaging the display. Nice work!
Wouldn't it be to the left. I thought the relay is the big blue one it's more to the left but i could be wrong.
@@user-ui5hh7hf6i The right side work for me, but it doesn’t cost anything else to try the left side if you want. Good luck!
Do you get the ue code all the time
@@Jordan-hv8qq yes
What if the screws won't come out??
They are hex-headed, right? Maybe use an appropriate nut driver?
I ordered just the relay switch and replaced it
Nice! Can you share your part no., source, and cost with us?
I got part # off of the relay switch. Cost about 15
Gotcha. And the water-proofing goo around it? I assume you used an exacto knife or razor to cut around it. Was any heat needed to get access?
I like to know-how in the name of heaven you can open to top plastic cover in the back to get to the noise filter on these particular machines. There is a fuse in there. I have no power at all. I have taken off the door and every screw associated with the cover. All that seems to be left is pry them plastics. There has to be a fine trick to do so without busting them all.
This sounds so familiar. I seem to remember being in the same pickle. I no longer have the machine or I would run look at it. I feels like it was some type of prying in just the right spot. I have the service manual somewhere. I’ll see if I can locate it for you.
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 Yea I have no power to the unit. There seems to be a fuse there in that noise filter. I had to go through heck trying to see if there is one. I have never seen any video or anywhere online talking about it. Of course you can read the lame answers common sense ones. Check the cord, check the breaker box, check the outlet... you know things of that nonsense.
I also got this Frigidaire dryer that keeps tripping one leg on the breaker switch after it runs for half a minute. I followed the wire to the one that trips all the way through the dyer. It is the left wire, looking at the harness connection in the back of the dryer looking at it. That one seem to go to the limit switch on the heater, and two other smaller wires that also feeds from that same wire, one goes to the thermoswitch and the other to the control board.
So I decided to see if there was any continuity between the three connection wires in the back of the dryer. Of course there shouldn't be any. The middle wire ( white wire) is strangely also hooked up to the body of the dryer. I don't understand that at all. As between that wire and the other two is 120 volts, which would make the body of the dryer live wire. ... I don't understand that at all. So I probed the ohmmeter between that middle white wire and the one on the left, it read almost 100 ohms... that is not right. No ohms reading between it and the right and the between right and the far left which is right.
So I unhooked the wire to the limit swich and there was no change in the ohm reading. I unhooked the thin wire to the thermoswich, there was some drop in the reading and when I unhooked the one to the contro board the ohm reading was gone, no contuity.
So it appears that there is some sort of short in the control board. There was an error code 061 I was told.
So I took the contrl board out and unhooked the wire harness power feed and checked the pins on the board and there was .6 ohm reading, that is the two wires that go the rectifier. That is not right. To my knowledge there should be no ohm readings at all. Plus that reading to me is dead short. which would mean that the control board should have been fried long ago. It is like the white and the black wire are hooked up together... that doesn't even sound right.... I am confused.
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 I opened it. It is prying business. starting along the back side of it across from one end to the other and gradually the front side. But once the back gives a little it is over. You know you got the sucker at last.
I am watching the video and I honestly don't understand something... If you know the problem is a relay, and you have a VERY good idea as to which relay it is, why not just order the relay in question instead of swapping out the entire board? Relays are fairly easy to check with a simple multimeter, and the cost of a relay is closer to just $5 or $10, or less (maybe even under $1.00). You will need a soldering kit, but if you don't have one you can get a basic soldering iron kit for around $12-20. A cheap multimeter is around $5. That would certainly be much cheaper than buying a new control board, and you would have tools you could use for other projects. Swapping out the relay component would take more time than swapping out the entire board, but it would not take that much longer, and could easily be done in a single day / service call. If you had the luxury of time waiting for the relay to arrive in the mail, you could remove the relay and test it to verify that it is truly bad before ordering a replacement.
Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose but you never win if you don't try...
If you are not familiar with soldering, you could practice on that old board before it goes to the waste dump (hopefully you are disposing of your electronic components responsibly)
I guess because my time is worth more to me than the money I would potentially save. I have a soldering iron and basic soldering skills. The circuit board for the unit is completely coated with a wax or glue-type substance, which made me question my abilities to safely remove the glue and replace the component. Also, at the time, i wasn’t 100% sure which relay it was.
If you would be so kind as to make a video, detailing the process of how you replaced the relay on the circuit board, I will gladly link my video to yours as a better solution.
Also, your post would imply that I have the new relay in my home. I obviously don’t, nor would most people. If I try your method, it’s going to set me back another week, waiting for that part to come in the mail. Then, if I fail, we still can’t wash clothes and I have to wait another week for the new board. I totally understand your point and encouragement to fix only what is broken. I hope that you can understand the rationale behind my decision.
These washers are nothing but trouble !! Don’t ever take your eyes off it because mine was out of balance like every LG washer made and it broke the tub seal and water 💦 was pouring out from the tub and luckily my daughter notice before it flooded the entire house .. Not worth buying or fixing good bye LG
Yikes! That is awful. I have happily moved on from the LG to a Samsung that I am currently very pleased with.
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 A much better choice going with Samsung
Its the bigger green one on the end that hangs to your left when board is up side down. In front of the white plug in.
Replacing control board nor the shocks fixed my piece of junk LG washer...total junk. UE error and constant refilling...
Indeed. They are complete junk. So happy to have moved on to something else. I’ve been pretty happy with the Samsung we bought to replace the LG.
Can you come and repair my machine too?
I would, if you were near, but it’s really not that bad. You got this!
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 Shere are you located?
I was half-kidding, but Central AR
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 5-6 hours away😀
@@budgetprojectsbydavid5263 We are in California
Just buy a new washer, now if it was 100$ board ok,
Everyone’s threshold for the cost of a repair is different. Believe it or not, your opinion is no more important than anyone else’s.