What did u do with the two big plugs behind the motor under the intake? Im wanting to do this exact thing with my old harness but idk what to do with them two big plugs
I went with a ry wire mill spec harness for my 88 si crx running a b16. Because cutting and splitting wires that are 20 plus years old will have problems in the long run.
Yo to the person who made this video I liked it and subscribed but I was wondering if you would know what wire would lead to the ignition switch bc my car is starting when I turn my key to the ON position of the car so I’m thinking maybe a wire that gets the signal to start up is wired to the signal for the ON position of the ignition switch
Im redoing my harness and I need yall help!! I forgot where my clutch safety switch wires go to like not the plug, but the other end, I cut them and I forgot ha.
Yo Nate I had a question with the EF harness specifically the harness that plugs into the main relay. I had an issue where no matter what I did the main relay will not work, so I toggle switched the fuel pump, ECU and push button started the starter everything works just fine. My question is, is there a wire that needs to be wired for the ignition? I only did the 3 so far and can't find a definite answer online, I'd like to convert it to a 5 pin relay but again no wiring diagram explaining it in detail.
You’re way overthinking it and you’ve got it all wrong. First of all, sensors are 5V. 12V is for the injectors, IACV (these are motors), or for switches like the radiator fan switch, VTEC solenoid and oil pressure switch. These don’t “sense” anything. The black wires also go to the thermostat with the brn/blk. The difference between blk (ground) and brn/blk (logic ground) is that logic grounds carry a small amount of voltage, less than 1V, because of the difference in resistance at the ECU and the true battery ground. It’s more than you need to worry about but the reason is because things like the TPS, MAP, IAT, ECT “sense” by providing a resistance. The ECU interprets that resistance to know how hot something is, how open something is. It all has to be calibrated to the ECU, not to a perfect battery ground. All of these sensors need to be on the same ground (logic ground) that the ECU is using. While things like motors and switches just use a battery ground in order to operate. They’re either 12V or 0, at no point is the ECU looking at how much voltage these have because there is no resistance.
The ECU sends 5V to a sensor and then sees how much V it gets back on that sensor’s signal wire. The amount it gets back is dependent on its resistance. A sensor like the IAT, ECT changes in resistance according to temperature. The MAP and BARO changein resistance according to air pressure, the TPS changes in resistance according to how far it’s turned. Be careful not to mix the GRN/BLK 5V wires with something using 12V like the backup lights switch. VCC, SG are 5V power and ground.
Thanks for your videos man. I have a b16 out of a ek I'm wondering how to wire up the ECU without a chassis harness into a 1986 ah civic. I have the motor and engine harness with ECU but I don't have a chassis loom to integrate into my carby chassis. Thank you. All help is appreciated
Crazy video great content I hate messing with wires but u got skills
That green plug goes to the dash for the guages.
What did u do with the two big plugs behind the motor under the intake? Im wanting to do this exact thing with my old harness but idk what to do with them two big plugs
Thank you for all the information and happy holidays!🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗
YEAAH I'm so happy to have 97 EK civic with D15Z6, based on how often you mention the EK harness!
Thanks much enjoyed watching
I like your vids bro! Keep it up the good work mang!
Strip it and crimp it, heat shrink over it
amazing stuff bro
So much info in this video!! Thank you!!
Can you share about d16 or d15 grounding wiyering circuit
I went with a ry wire mill spec harness for my 88 si crx running a b16. Because cutting and splitting wires that are 20 plus years old will have problems in the long run.
Yo to the person who made this video I liked it and subscribed but I was wondering if you would know what wire would lead to the ignition switch bc my car is starting when I turn my key to the ON position of the car so I’m thinking maybe a wire that gets the signal to start up is wired to the signal for the ON position of the ignition switch
Im redoing my harness and I need yall help!! I forgot where my clutch safety switch wires go to like not the plug, but the other end, I cut them and I forgot ha.
I feel like you have a bong or raw papers at home lol you give me mechanic stoner vibes
look VERY carefully and you’ll see the bong appear at times
Yo Nate I had a question with the EF harness specifically the harness that plugs into the main relay. I had an issue where no matter what I did the main relay will not work, so I toggle switched the fuel pump, ECU and push button started the starter everything works just fine. My question is, is there a wire that needs to be wired for the ignition? I only did the 3 so far and can't find a definite answer online, I'd like to convert it to a 5 pin relay but again no wiring diagram explaining it in detail.
im about to cover this soon
@@anotherefncrxvlog4350 Hell yeah G! Look forward to the video thanks again
You’re way overthinking it and you’ve got it all wrong. First of all, sensors are 5V. 12V is for the injectors, IACV (these are motors), or for switches like the radiator fan switch, VTEC solenoid and oil pressure switch. These don’t “sense” anything.
The black wires also go to the thermostat with the brn/blk. The difference between blk (ground) and brn/blk (logic ground) is that logic grounds carry a small amount of voltage, less than 1V, because of the difference in resistance at the ECU and the true battery ground. It’s more than you need to worry about but the reason is because things like the TPS, MAP, IAT, ECT “sense” by providing a resistance. The ECU interprets that resistance to know how hot something is, how open something is. It all has to be calibrated to the ECU, not to a perfect battery ground. All of these sensors need to be on the same ground (logic ground) that the ECU is using. While things like motors and switches just use a battery ground in order to operate. They’re either 12V or 0, at no point is the ECU looking at how much voltage these have because there is no resistance.
The ECU sends 5V to a sensor and then sees how much V it gets back on that sensor’s signal wire. The amount it gets back is dependent on its resistance. A sensor like the IAT, ECT changes in resistance according to temperature. The MAP and BARO changein resistance according to air pressure, the TPS changes in resistance according to how far it’s turned.
Be careful not to mix the GRN/BLK 5V wires with something using 12V like the backup lights switch. VCC, SG are 5V power and ground.
What kind of crimp tool is that?
Bro!! I seen this on insta
Thanks for your videos man. I have a b16 out of a ek I'm wondering how to wire up the ECU without a chassis harness into a 1986 ah civic. I have the motor and engine harness with ECU but I don't have a chassis loom to integrate into my carby chassis. Thank you. All help is appreciated
👏👏👏👍❤️👍
Crimp it and then solder the wires.
Take some money from me and get a haircut....
cash app $savetheEFs
thanks!