Thanks for that insight. I actually noticed the same on my D2 DLP the other day when I was testing another resin. I also have a Mono X which I’ll check. But the overall process is the same. It seems strange to me that Anycubic wouldn’t make it the same on all their printers. I’ll see what I can find out and make a quick update video. In any case, it’s good to be able to use your own file.
Thanks for this tutorial. I did everything as in video. But something went wrong. Anycubic Photon Mono 4K. Slicer Anycubic Photon WorkShop. Normal exposure time -1.7 sec. File name R_E_R_F.px6s.pwma. All 8 parts were printed with the same exposure. What could be the error?
It looks like its in your file name. Remove the .px6s. It should just be R_E_R_F. pwma. I'm actually working on an update to this video today. I have a better method which is simpler. I've also noticed that this video has an error which is why I'm making an updated version. This video will be delisted shortly. I'll keep you posted.
@@ColinKlupiec Removed it. Same result. Even natively file from Anycubic (R_E_R_F.pwma) gave me same results. May be it's because of the most recent firmware that I recently installed on the printer?
I've been using an Anycubic Mono for years, no trouble whatsoever. I prefer the Crealty Grey that is water washable and very strong, with just the right amount of flex.
I use it for everything, it's soo cheap.. also, you don't have to stock iso and then dispose of it ethically. I just take it to my bathroom because my toilet is fancy and has triggered hand nozzle that is no joke, I just pull it over to the basin and have at it. Then I printed this little holder for a single Stanley blade and it's easy to get under even tiny prints.. right there in the basin. Now, every time I use my printer I'm also fully washing the enter head assembly and it's no effort at all. I wait for it to go on special and stock up. @@ColinKlupiec
That’s actually quite simple. The starting exposure is determined by the ‘normal exposure’ time. To start at 1.8, set your normal exposure to 1.8. You can do this when you create the slice file. And you can also change it just after the print has started under the settings icon on the screen on the printer.
@@ColinKlupiec Okay. But, what about the time difference between segments? For example, I want to start at 1.5 seconds, and then increase this value by 0.25 seconds. How do I "tell" the machine to increase the exposure time by 0.25? 😁
Hi Colin, which printer and resin is your go-to for your functional parts? Have you shared your modelling process and print build settings for your parts?
Anycubic Tough Resins. The Tough Resin 2.0 and Tough Resin Ultra are excellent. Use the Ultra if you need super flexible. You can use this affiliate link and coupon to get $25 off. store.anycubic.com/products/tough-resin-2?ref=CK Coupon code: CK3DPRINT. Haven't done a video on my process for parts. It's a good idea...I'll add it to the 'to do' list.
@@LoremIpsum1970 Sorry, forgot to mention. For functional parts I actually like a small build volume printer to start with. Less resin to work with for each prototype. Then if you need to print multiples you can go with a larger one. Just my preferred way. My favourite printer is actually the Anycubic Photon D2 DLP. There are many advantages of DLP, and the D2 has recently seen a huge price drop. I have two larger Anycubic printers as well, but for starting the prototyping process I always start with the smaller D2. store.anycubic.com/products/photon-d2-dlp-3d-printer?ref=CK
@@ColinKlupiec Excellent video. I did everything according to your instructions. Please tell me, is it possible to add Tough Resin to another resin from Anyсubic, standard resin? And what are the proportions. Thank you.
Hi, I tried this using your guide but my Mono M7 pro won't recognise the file I saved using the R_E_R_F name. I wonder what the problem could be? I can use the file that comes on the USB stick, but would prefer to use my own file really.
Hi, thanks for your question. When you sliced the file, did you make sure that the slicer was set to the M7 Pro? Sounds like a silly question, but I've got a few printers set up in Photon Workshop, and I've made that mistake before. Just enter R_E_R_F and let the slicer put the suffix onto the file name. Also, are you using the Anycubic slicer? If not, you may wish to use it just for creating this file.
@@ColinKlupiec Hi, thanks for your reply. Yeah, using the anycubic slicer, and it's set to the m7 profile. It's really strange. I'm fairly new to printing, so perhaps I'm missing something else.
@@darthhall6187 One other thing you could try... was the original R_E_R_F file written in Chinese script? You may need to copy the characters of the original file supplied with the printer, and then copy those instead of the English R_E_R_F characters. I had that on the Mono X 6Ks. That printer accepted both the Chinese characters, or the English characters.
@@ColinKlupiec I think its a fault in the firmware. It is now not reading any saved files at all. Very annoying. Will contact their customer service once my anger subsides. Thanks for your input all the same, much appreciated
Thanks for sharing. I have a M7 Pro and when checking the LCD only print, it seems like it is flipping Y axis, so number 1 is in the top left corner.
Thanks for that insight. I actually noticed the same on my D2 DLP the other day when I was testing another resin. I also have a Mono X which I’ll check. But the overall process is the same. It seems strange to me that Anycubic wouldn’t make it the same on all their printers. I’ll see what I can find out and make a quick update video. In any case, it’s good to be able to use your own file.
Thanks for this tutorial. I did everything as in video. But something went wrong. Anycubic Photon Mono 4K. Slicer Anycubic Photon WorkShop. Normal exposure time -1.7 sec. File name R_E_R_F.px6s.pwma. All 8 parts were printed with the same exposure. What could be the error?
It looks like its in your file name. Remove the .px6s. It should just be R_E_R_F. pwma. I'm actually working on an update to this video today. I have a better method which is simpler. I've also noticed that this video has an error which is why I'm making an updated version. This video will be delisted shortly. I'll keep you posted.
@@ColinKlupiec Removed it. Same result. Even natively file from Anycubic (R_E_R_F.pwma) gave me same results. May be it's because of the most recent firmware that I recently installed on the printer?
I've been using an Anycubic Mono for years, no trouble whatsoever. I prefer the Crealty Grey that is water washable and very strong, with just the right amount of flex.
Thanks, that's a good tip on the Creality Grey. Always good to find out about different strong and flexible resins.
I use it for everything, it's soo cheap.. also, you don't have to stock iso and then dispose of it ethically. I just take it to my bathroom because my toilet is fancy and has triggered hand nozzle that is no joke, I just pull it over to the basin and have at it. Then I printed this little holder for a single Stanley blade and it's easy to get under even tiny prints.. right there in the basin. Now, every time I use my printer I'm also fully washing the enter head assembly and it's no effort at all. I wait for it to go on special and stock up. @@ColinKlupiec
Would you be able to upload your numbered files of the modified models please? That would be super helpful! :)
Sure, I’d be happy to share the files. It might be easier to email them. Email me on info@colinklupiec.com and I’ll send them to you.
@@ColinKlupiec Done - thank you! :)
How do you control the time and the time difference between the segments? I want to start from 1.8 and go up to 3 seconds.
That’s actually quite simple. The starting exposure is determined by the ‘normal exposure’ time. To start at 1.8, set your normal exposure to 1.8. You can do this when you create the slice file. And you can also change it just after the print has started under the settings icon on the screen on the printer.
@@ColinKlupiec Okay. But, what about the time difference between segments? For example, I want to start at 1.5 seconds, and then increase this value by 0.25 seconds. How do I "tell" the machine to increase the exposure time by 0.25? 😁
Hi Colin, which printer and resin is your go-to for your functional parts?
Have you shared your modelling process and print build settings for your parts?
Anycubic Tough Resins. The Tough Resin 2.0 and Tough Resin Ultra are excellent. Use the Ultra if you need super flexible. You can use this affiliate link and coupon to get $25 off. store.anycubic.com/products/tough-resin-2?ref=CK Coupon code: CK3DPRINT.
Haven't done a video on my process for parts. It's a good idea...I'll add it to the 'to do' list.
@@ColinKlupiec Thanks, will do! What about prefered printer? I'm opting for Anycubic now...
@@LoremIpsum1970 Sorry, forgot to mention. For functional parts I actually like a small build volume printer to start with. Less resin to work with for each prototype. Then if you need to print multiples you can go with a larger one. Just my preferred way. My favourite printer is actually the Anycubic Photon D2 DLP. There are many advantages of DLP, and the D2 has recently seen a huge price drop. I have two larger Anycubic printers as well, but for starting the prototyping process I always start with the smaller D2. store.anycubic.com/products/photon-d2-dlp-3d-printer?ref=CK
@@ColinKlupiec Brilliant. Thanks for the reply, will look into that.
@@ColinKlupiec Excellent video. I did everything according to your instructions. Please tell me, is it possible to add Tough Resin to another resin from Anyсubic, standard resin? And what are the proportions. Thank you.
Hi, I tried this using your guide but my Mono M7 pro won't recognise the file I saved using the R_E_R_F name. I wonder what the problem could be? I can use the file that comes on the USB stick, but would prefer to use my own file really.
Hi, thanks for your question. When you sliced the file, did you make sure that the slicer was set to the M7 Pro? Sounds like a silly question, but I've got a few printers set up in Photon Workshop, and I've made that mistake before. Just enter R_E_R_F and let the slicer put the suffix onto the file name. Also, are you using the Anycubic slicer? If not, you may wish to use it just for creating this file.
@@ColinKlupiec Hi, thanks for your reply. Yeah, using the anycubic slicer, and it's set to the m7 profile. It's really strange. I'm fairly new to printing, so perhaps I'm missing something else.
@@darthhall6187 One other thing you could try... was the original R_E_R_F file written in Chinese script? You may need to copy the characters of the original file supplied with the printer, and then copy those instead of the English R_E_R_F characters. I had that on the Mono X 6Ks. That printer accepted both the Chinese characters, or the English characters.
@@ColinKlupiec I think its a fault in the firmware. It is now not reading any saved files at all. Very annoying. Will contact their customer service once my anger subsides. Thanks for your input all the same, much appreciated
Sorry to hear that. Hope you get it sorted. Anycubic is usually ok with support and they should help you out.
could you please upload the file, i have the same printer
You can download the Photonsters file here www.printables.com/model/229429-photonsters-validation-matrix-v2
Thank you 💖💖💖💖
You’re very welcome.