Видео

Hi, thanks for your feedback and your question. The part in this video is post-cured for 5min. There was some trial and error in deciding on that time, but it seems to provide a good balance of flexibility and rigidity. I think each item you make will have an ideal post-cure time. But I use 5-6min for all my designs and it seems to work.

So far it’s the only resin I’ve had issues with. Siraya Tech reckon they’ve got an improved version called Blu Lava Black. I’ll be testing that soon. BTW, the D2 is still my favourite printer. I’d rather pay more and have a DLP over LCD any day.

@ColinKlupiec Same here, even though I got the new fancy Saturn 4 ultra, I still turn the my little blue D2 when I need a prefect print.

Not sure. I’ll need to check.

Sure, I’d be happy to share the files. It might be easier to email them. Email me on info@colinklupiec.com and I’ll send them to you.

Yes, I think you’re right. I’ll be testing some other clear resins very soon and it will be interesting to see if I get the same issues.

@@ColinKlupiec It's fun to play around with. And sketchy at the same time. I'm always nervous i'm going to crack my glass from a failure.

Thanks for your question. This part is now updated to the MK3 version and made with toughened UV resin. It's super strong. You can see me test the resin with the part in this video ruclips.net/video/od7WnLbkL0k/видео.html The part is available for purchase. Contact me on info@colinklupiec.com for more information if you're interested.

Thanks for your sharing your experience. I like the idea of water washable resin, and still use it for doing quick prototypes. But I mainly had to switch to IPA because I really only use functional, or tough resins, that can handle some harsh treatment when in use. So far, functional, or toughened, or engineering type resins all require IPA. If a water washable version becomes available I'd be keen to test it.

That’s interesting. Anycubic also makes a ‘Bio’ resin that is meant to be better for skin contact. I really wanted to like Blu because of the colour. But I’ve now discovered Ameralabs TGM-7 which is a total game changer.

Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate it. Sounds like you’ve collected some good data. Yes, I think this is better than Anycubic Tough, especially when you factor in the colour mixing capabilities. Anycubic is still good, and I still use it, but for this project I will use TGM-7 exclusively.

That’s interesting. I haven’t used PETG yet.

Thanks for your question. It's less rigid than all the other tough resins I've used. You can check out my other videos for Tough 1.0 ruclips.net/video/PLtjuhRN6Wg/видео.html, and Tough 2.0 ruclips.net/video/yWO5sV2Xhws/видео.html, Antinsky High Tough ruclips.net/video/BlgTNUTLC6M/видео.html, and Ameralabs TGM-7 ruclips.net/video/od7WnLbkL0k/видео.html Hope that helps.

Great. I’m glad you found that helpful. 👍

My pleasure. Glad it helped.

Indeed. This resin is so good for my application. I’m glad this has helped you too. 👍

Thanks Chris. The first print runs were for testing. Production runs begin this weekend with parts available soon after. Stay tuned…👍

I know how you feel. The colour is so vibrant which is hard to find in resin. I’m thrilled to have found it. 👍

We're happy to see you happy! The black one is XVN-50, it has a bit different properties and is designed specifically for engineering purposes. You can even sand, drill and thread it!

Thanks for your question. Tough 2.0 is harder…more brittle. Ultra is more flexible. Both are good and resist impact, depending on your application. But for all out impact resistance, Ultra is better. Glad my videos have been helpful for you. 👍

@ColinKlupiec awesome thank you so much. I'm off to order some ultra and give it a test. I've been very happy with tough 2.0 but just want something a little more impact resistant. Even though like you said tough 2.0 has incredible impact resistance. For what I need ultra may be slightly more ideal. Thanks again 😁 and love your work!

@@shakkaclacka9150 Thanks again for your feedback. My pleasure to help out. Hope it works for you.

i also plan on painting most of my prints so i dont see an issue with the white residue

I think water in a wash station is ok as long as you keep it reasonably fresh. Some resins, like eSun, will actually state that better results occur when prints are washed under running water.

You may find that the residue issue could be particular to the resin…hard to predict. I still occasionally use water washable resin for quick prototyping and sometimes just use IPA to wash it. Somehow the prints seem cleaner to me.

Fair point. Although, the parts were already a week or so old when I did the test. I just didn’t mention that. But, your point is quite valid. Perhaps I should take that last part and throw it under the hammer…it’s about three weeks old now. Stay tuned…

Good pickup. I didn’t do the ‘warmed’ test this time because the performance was already so good. I only did the ‘warmed’ test because I thought colder conditions were making other resins more brittle. But it’s worth testing the Antinsky resin when it’s warm…stay tuned.

@@ColinKlupiec Nothing super critical tho. I have been printing with tough ultra now, its ok but parts are qute soft when its hot outside. They feel more like a hard tpu than "plastic". Do you have any polish roots btw?

Thanks for your feedback. Really appreciate it. I’ve been planning to test Anycubic Rigid for a while now. It’s definitely on the list. I need to test some more Antinsky and Ameralabs resins first. Stay tuned.

Thanks 👍

Thanks. Really appreciate it.

That’s actually quite simple. The starting exposure is determined by the ‘normal exposure’ time. To start at 1.8, set your normal exposure to 1.8. You can do this when you create the slice file. And you can also change it just after the print has started under the settings icon on the screen on the printer.

Thanks for that insight. I actually noticed the same on my D2 DLP the other day when I was testing another resin. I also have a Mono X which I’ll check. But the overall process is the same. It seems strange to me that Anycubic wouldn’t make it the same on all their printers. I’ll see what I can find out and make a quick update video. In any case, it’s good to be able to use your own file.

Thanks for your feedback. 😀

Hi Jim. Thanks for asking. Happy to share. I've created a community post about it. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxk53twEAnU1au5JwtB9Zb-VOEu-qRnhcj If you would like PDF copies of the drawings, email me on info@colinklupiec.com and I'll send them to you. 😀

Thanks for the feedback. Really appreciate it. Glad that helped you. 😀

@@ColinKlupiec No worries, thank you! 👍

Yes, I suppose it is an option to dye it. I must try that. Can you recommend a good resin dye?

@@ColinKlupiec I only tried the Solid Color Pigment brand, which is made for epoxy resin. It worked very well but it's only sold in tiny bottles. I've seen others successfully use Rit Dye on resin printed parts, with one advantage being that their bottles are quite large.

@@ColinKlupiec Anycubic have a resin colour kit. Pourable resin dyes are available and should work as well. I got a bunch of resin dyes but I need a white to test them with.

@@ColinKlupiec It works really well but some color change resin properties quite a lot making it way more brittle.

Hey, thanks for your comment and great feedback. I really appreciate it. I haven't tried Formlabs yet. But it's definitely on my radar. I'm currently testing some Ameralabs resin which so far is really impressing me. Antinsky also wants me to test their engineering resins, so it looks like more rocket tests are coming too. Plus I'll probably be testing heat resistant resins soon for electrical parts etc. Comments like yours encourage me to widen my testing methods. Stay tuned.

Yes, I think it's a great saw. Widely available, not too expensive, a good strong spine and nice handle for ergonomics. And, you can have the blade sharpened. School students deserve to use excellent tools which are well maintained. These saws aren't the most expensive, but I also wouldn't buy anything less than these.

Not yet, but it's a good idea. I'll put it on my list of things to do. Anycubic is releasing a new printer, the M4 and M4 Ultra, which I think have xy resolution down to 17microns. That would be a very interesting comparison.

@@ColinKlupiec I've noticed a new machine in photon worshop too. btw, do you have any problems with parts shrinking over first 1-2 weeks after printing and curing? I am fighting with dimensions on my resin prints and its hard to predict everything.

@@Trancelebration Shrinking parts hasn’t been a problem with the ‘tough’ resins I’m working with. In the early days of my resin printing I did notice some prints shrinking with the standard, or non-toughened resins.

Hi, thanks for your question. When you sliced the file, did you make sure that the slicer was set to the M7 Pro? Sounds like a silly question, but I've got a few printers set up in Photon Workshop, and I've made that mistake before. Just enter R_E_R_F and let the slicer put the suffix onto the file name. Also, are you using the Anycubic slicer? If not, you may wish to use it just for creating this file.

@@ColinKlupiec Hi, thanks for your reply. Yeah, using the anycubic slicer, and it's set to the m7 profile. It's really strange. I'm fairly new to printing, so perhaps I'm missing something else.

@@darthhall6187 One other thing you could try... was the original R_E_R_F file written in Chinese script? You may need to copy the characters of the original file supplied with the printer, and then copy those instead of the English R_E_R_F characters. I had that on the Mono X 6Ks. That printer accepted both the Chinese characters, or the English characters.

@@ColinKlupiec I think its a fault in the firmware. It is now not reading any saved files at all. Very annoying. Will contact their customer service once my anger subsides. Thanks for your input all the same, much appreciated

Sorry to hear that. Hope you get it sorted. Anycubic is usually ok with support and they should help you out.

I don't know. I don't have the Bosch. Anyone else know?

@@ColinKlupiecDoes your product have the ability to capture photos from the photo viewfinder? The Bosch Blaze does this but I have been unable to confirm if this function exists for any of the Mileseey products.😂

Yes, the Makita does a good job if the abrasive paper is fresh and you don't need to do detail work. It's louder though, and not as nice to hold.

2.0 is harder. Good impact resistance and maintains its shape better under load. Ultra is more flexible. Better where higher bending tolerance is needed. Ultra is also much thicker (more viscous) and prints better at warmer temps around 30 degrees. But both are very good.

@@ColinKlupiec About structural strength: have you tested already Anycubic Rigid 100? It is some very new resin, that is advertised to be both strong and rigid. Specs suggest it is 2-3x stronger than ABS like and Ultra Tough and even 1.5x stronger than ABS filament, but I wonder if this is true, or it is just a very stiff and will shatter like PLA, but is just stronger than standard resin.

Thanks for adding your experience. I’m testing Antinsky High Tough Resin and AmeraLabs TGM-7 at the moment. Videos out soon.

Glad you found it helpful. Have a great day.

That's helpful to know. Thanks for adding to the conversation.

@@ColinKlupiec Thats why I wonder why everyone praises it that much. It had terrible results for me.

You're welcome. Glad you found it helpful.

Sure. I can also email it to you. If you email me on info@colinklupiec.com I’ll reply with the file attached.

Thanks.

Thanks for your question. You’ll definitely get the accuracy you’re after, even with those small wall thicknesses. Toughness/rigidity depends a bit on the use case and finding the right resin. Anycubic tough Ultra is more flexible than Anycubic tough 2.0. You could also try Sirayatech Build, or Antinsky High Tough Resin.

Great. I’m glad you found it helpful. 😀