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Thanks for your question. Reduce your base exposure time. Try lowering it in 5 or 10 second increments. I tried that with a high temp resin and needed to reduce base exposure all the way down to 6 seconds.

@@ColinKlupiec Will give it a go, ive already tried 3 sec - No adhesion , and 6 sec Glued to the plate. will try 4 and 5 sec.

It's worth a try. What printer are you using?

@@ColinKlupiec creality ender 3 v2

That's helpful insight. Thanks for adding to the conversation. 👍

Yes, I've noticed that it's harder to get some resins in some parts of the world.

I'm glad that's been helpful. Stay tuned because I have many more resins to test. They are mostly 'tough' or 'engineering' type resins which should be good for your purposes.

It's on my list of resins to try...

👍

It’s a bit of trial and error. Place them as evenly as you can. Then use the preview function and check if there are 8 distinct models. If they are not spaced correctly you’ll see bits of models just next to where the models are…as if bits have been cut off. Keep shifting them around until you get 8 models.

Hey, sorry about the link. I’ve removed that link now. Thanks for your interest. I don’t sell these anymore but I have a couple spare, now made in resin. I could send you one for the cost of postage. Contact me on info@colinklupiec.com if you’re interested.

Interesting…which resin is that?

I reckon it could work well for you.

Thanks, that's helpful insight. I have some Antinsky Engineering resin in black which I can compare this to. Siraya Tech has also updated their Blu resin in a 'lava black' version which is apparently also much improved. I haven't tried altering layer thickness from 0.05mm yet, just to keep things simple. Worth a try though. I'll keep testing.

​@@ColinKlupiec One other thing. Since your printer has the ability to sense how much pull there is on it, it alters the results only valid for that printer. I have an older Saturn two and these results would be much different since mine is the more analog version of a 3D printer But there was a lot of good information to pick through and learn from, not only from the video, but from the comment above as well.

@@OtherWorldExplorers That's good insight about the printers. I have to say I'm really enjoying this intelligent release tech by Anycubic. It makes a huge difference for rapid prototyping. I can get through many more design iterations in a day. Perhaps I'll try the same print on my D2 DLP and see if it's any different. I'm pleased the video provided useful info. I kept it a bit more informal this time to show some of the backstory.

RESIONE was a recommendation but I'm looking for a solution for under 40$ USD for 1kg

Thanks for your question. In my testing...Anycubic Tough Resin Ultra has the best impact resistance. But it can also get a bit soft in warmer conditions. Ameralabs TGM-7 is the next best because it maintains its shape better with fluctuating temperature and has unlimited colour mixing options. But that makes it more expensive. And, surprisingly, a lesser known brand of Antinsky High Tough resin is also very good. And, if you're looking for a water washable version, my recent review of Nova3D water washable resin showed surprisingly good results. ruclips.net/video/TA6vlslrEpU/видео.html That's four resins which should give you some good purchasing options, depending on where you are located.

@ColinKlupiec thank you. I will look into theme 🙏🏼

@@taktikairsoft That's where the Antinsky resin may interest you. It's currently listed under $40USD. But, it only comes in white. antinsky.com/products/antinsky-high-tough-uv-resin-with-405nm-and-low-shrinkage-for-lcd-dlp-3d-printer-resin

@@taktikairsoft You're welcome. Always happy to help my small community where I can.

Good observation. On the Nova3D website, the menu link says "Tough Washable Resin", and on the webpage for the resin the title is "NOVA3D Water Washable ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin Tough Washable Resin". So, it's a little confusing. Also, the description of 'ABS-Like' is quite vague. To say it's 'like' ABS could mean many things. 🤔 That's why I simply referred to it as 'tough resin'. Having said all that, I reckon this resin performs really well.

@@ColinKlupiec alright, thank you

Apparently this color isn't gray, but rather named "Gary" also... 😂 I think they're just trying to nail all the buzz-words they think will encourage people to buy it, though personally I think it's a mistake to try and cash in on the tired old "ABS-Like" nomenclature, which really means nothing and has ultimately disappointed many of us in the past. Still, the resin looks like a winner based on performance here, and the price isn't bad.. 🤷‍♂

I'd like to try the Anycubic water washable options too. I'll put them on the 'to do' list. Let us know how you go.

Thanks. The cleaning process is pleasant change. I put water into my wash & cure station and it worked just fine. In fact, I ran the cleaning cycle for much less time and it seemed to be quite effective. I have to admit...cleaning the prints without IPA odour was a bonus.

What a great question. Is colour a factor? Does it need to be transparent?

@ColinKlupiec Thanks for the response. No, color and opacity do not matter.

Thanks, that's helpful. I can't answer your question, but I've just emailed my contact at Siraya Tech to see if they make a resin with properties like that. Siraya Tech make some speciality resins so I thought they'd be worth approaching. I can't guarantee they'll respond, but it's worth a try. By the way, what app are you modelling your prototype with?

@ColinKlupiec Thank you so much. I didn't have much hope that a resin I'm looking for exists. The project has been on hold, since it is too difficult to do with glass. I use Solidworks for all my cad.

I'm curious about your project. Sounds like it involves lots of thin tubes. I know IP is most likely an issue for you, but I'd be interested to see an image of it to see how it might work as a resin print.

Thanks for your feedback. I'm working on a solution to providing links. In the mean time, I'd be happy to send you the files directly. Email me on info@colinklupiec.com

Indeed. Thanks.

It’s a great sander, for sure.

It’s certainly tough.

Thanks. I agree, the tape would be better at 5m long.

You're very welcome, glad it helped! 👍

Both good questions. I can't comment on using dyes, but I have mixed it with another coloured resin and the result seemed to be quite good, although I didn't test strength properties. I didn't do any temperature tests for this resin.

@@ColinKlupiec Thanks for the reply! I'm trying to choose between resin and FDM printing, and with how rapidly changing things are with resins, I seem to be leaning in that direction. I have a number of projects in mind, and for these my prints need to be tough, mechanically durable, and resistant to sub-freezing temperatures. Aesthetics are also a priority and painting or using wood filler isn't an option, so resin printing easily takes the cake there.

@@ColinKlupiec I actually just thought of something, and maybe you'd be interested in exploring it: a method to coat FDM prints with a UV-cured resin coating like those used for resin printing. Some kind of combination that draws on the strengths of both printing technologies.

@@bisterkding9249 You're welcome. I try to answer all comments as best I can. I started with FDM but quickly became super curious about resin when I realised that I wanted more than just a 3D printed model...I wanted to make real products. Or at least as close to something like an injection moulded product as I could. Resin will definitely offer you that, especially with how resins have developed just in the last two years. I'm lucky to have the opportunity to be testing them. One thing I can also recommend is printers with tech that speeds up the printing process. I now use an Anycubic M7 which adapts printing lift (and light off) parameters based on the shape of the model at each layer. So far the improvement in speed without loss of quality is quite remarkable. And now you've suggested a test I wouldn't have considered...freezing the prints. Nice 👍. Let me know how you get on.

@@bisterkding9249 That's also interesting. I just tried something similar by coating a resin print with new resin before post curing to get a shiny finish. It works, but needs practise. 😀 You can find it here. ruclips.net/video/MWskGYdc984/видео.html

That's interesting. I'm yet to dive into the world of Phrozen resins. I'll put it on the list...😀

I've been very impressed with this resin so far. The colours are so vibrant and mix beautifully.

apparently the setting you set will be the first then go up by .25

The range is based on the setting for ‘normal exposure’. If you set normal exposure to 1 second, the first model exposure will be 1 second and the following models will be exposed at + 0.25 seconds. So, a 1 second normal exposure sets a range of 1 to 2.75 seconds.

There's no indication on the Nova3D website that the resin is biodegradable. The resin still needs to be separated from the water. A common method is to evaporate the water away, or leave the container used in the sun. The resin comes out of solution and can be discarded as a solid.

@@ColinKlupiec ok that makes sense, thanks for the info!

You make a good point. I'll use one of those prints to do a longer term yellowing test.

Thanks. I genuinely appreciate your comment. It adds to the general knowledge base of the discussion and I welcome robust contributions to techniques and processes. I guess I'm indirectly taking a position on the increasingly sloppy approach to teaching young students about measuring, marking, and cutting. Too often I see students instructed to cut 5mm or so away from their mark and then 'disc sand' to the line. Inevitably the result is wonky and leads to an over reliance on a machine I believe has become the 'swiss army sander'. I suspect most people won't have the kit you describe so well. But some might have a plane lying around. Interesting to note, though, that your last sentence mentions milling as 'by far the easiest method', which, ...is a cutting process. Maybe I should try routing the prints. 🤔 Although, managing speed will be an issue. Thanks again for your comment.

@@ColinKlupiec you should *definitely* try routing it, I think you'll be surprised how effective it is. Only caveat I would stress is to find/utilize really sharp cutters, not the typical rather blunt edge/angle bits that I typically see used for woodwork. I totally agree with you about the disc sanders. Grinding is the largest chunk of what I do, but I'll be the first to tell anyone, it's a quick way to screw something up without heavily practiced and proper technique, same as with filing. Disc sanders are especially problematic because seemingly very few people understand the obvious fact that you've got an exponential and continual change in cutting speed, across the entire surface of the disc, to effectively zero at the very center. You remove significantly more material on one side to the next, even if all other things like pressure and angle are equal, and flipping the part over just grinds a pyramid. Even in my industry the disc sander (grinder) is a woe-fully misunderstood tool, that is often utilized incorrectly to the detriment of their work... Regardless, router, or a shaper would make short work of squaring resin printed corners, just find or grind some HSS or high angle/sharp enough to cut you easily carbide tool bits. Hit me up if you need any help!

@@javandempsey3729 Thanks. That's more helpful than you realise. Resin printing square edges seems to be quite a challenge. I've got a few resins on the shelf still to test. Some claim to have better performance with straight edges etc. I'm wondering if post processing, like routing (or similar) will simply need to be designed into the print. I"m also going to try a much heavier support profile specifically for thick, square prints. I wonder if it has something to do with thin supports bending ever so slightly during the print. Either way, I've learned a lot in recent times. And again, I appreciate your detailed comments and offer for help. 👍

I haven't tried Elegoo ABS3.0, so I can't really comment. However, so far I have found that Ameralabs TGM-7, or Antinsky High Tough resin seem to be the best all-rounders for making stuff, as opposed to miniatures. Downsides are that Ameralabs is expensive, and Antinsky only comes in white. Although Antinsky have recognised this issue. Anycubic Gen 1 Tough was better then Tough 2.0 in my testing. Ultra is good if you need something tough and super flexible. I try to avoid mixing as I've found that sometimes the results can be good at first, but then things can change as the printed part ages. I guess it all depends on how much 'toughness' the print needs to handle.

Thanks. It was fun to test this one.

Hey, thanks, I really appreciate that. This resin was quite challenging to work with, and really is focused on a specific use case. Now I just need to get into injection moulding...😀

​​@@ColinKlupieci got a Saturn 4 Ultra recently and mostly use Anycubic Rigid 100. Crazy stuff. Quite brittle but really strong and is advertised to be heat resistant. Only drawback is the color. Maybe it is also suited for moulding

Being resistant up to 100 degrees might not be enough for injection moulding. Suddenly there are so many more resin choices, which is great. Just hard to keep up. The Anycubic Texture Resin is also one I'm curious about. It's got better colours too. I was recently tossing up between the Saturn 4 Ultra and the new Anycubic Mono M7. Went for the M7... but I think they both offer some good new features.

@@ColinKlupiec it's great to see all the new resin formulations coming out, especially in the area of tougher resins, considering how focused on miniatures and aesthetic prints this arena has been for so long. I appreciate your focus on reviewing these resins, as you've turned me on to some I never had even heard of, and kept me from wasting money on some that wouldn't have made me happy. Until recently I'd relied on mixing various resins to acheive good-ish results (I'm entirely interested in this space for hard use, functional prints, and avoiding the layer adhesion problems with FDM), but it's been hit or miss, and quite costly in some cases, as the more exotic resins have carried a hefty price tag in the past! Anyway, just wanted to pile on and say thank you! Would be curious to hear why you chose the M7 also.. after watching Fauxhammer's comparison, the Saturn 4 Ultra seemed like a no-brianer to me, although the new M7 Max, looks pretty epic!

Thanks for your comment. I really appreciate it. Here's another resin test I just posted. ruclips.net/video/MWskGYdc984/видео.html Suddenly I find myself testing a lot of resins. I remember it was so difficult getting started, wondering which resin would be right for the job. But these tests really help. As to the printers...there's a lot to like about the Saturn 4 Ultra. But the deal breaker for me was the build plate. I reckon cleaning that would irritate me. There's something elegantly simple about the conventional build plate that appeals to me. And, the intelligent release feature seems to work really well. I'd say that's Anycubic's answer to the S4U tilt action.

👍

Yes, I think you're right. That would need to be taken into consideration for functional parts that relied on maintaining dimensional accuracy.

i highly recommend mixing it with other regular resins to decrease the ductility.

Thanks. 👍

I’ve heard that too. The black is quite convincing though. Perhaps Anycubic should send me some so that I can test it 😂.

Thanks, I appreciate your feedback. I'll keep working on it. 👍

I appreciate your comment. Everyone's use cases and experiences will be different. I switched to IPA mostly because I ventured into tough resins, which at the time, all required IPA. However, times change, and new products come to market. I'm currently testing some water washable tough resin which I've just become aware of, and will make a video about that soon.

It’s got a kind of retro feel to it. Different to the usual ‘3D print grey’.

It worked out better than I thought in an application I wasn’t expecting to be good. Really surprising.

😂 The smell isn’t too bad, actually.

100% was thinking the same thing

@@Goigigandfriends 😀

@@ColinKlupiec stuck around and watch the whole thing because it was a good video too!

@@Goigigandfriends Hey, thanks so much. Really appreciate it.

Thanks. It worked well.

That would be interesting. Must try and test that.

Most metallic pigments are plastic, and there currently is no additives to resin to make them usefully electrically conductive.

Saturn 4 Ultra

It's a great printer too.

Thanks Chris. Actually, the globe creates very little heat, and the design of the lampshade allows for heaps of air flow. But, I am testing a high temp resin with the same blue mixed in. Stay tuned. Anycubic currently has a great deal on their new small form factor printers which are a great entry point. The one worth looking at is the Mono 4 Ultra. It's got some great new tech, and the current Black Friday pricing is very good. Check out this non-affiliate link. store.anycubic.com/collections/resin-3d-printer/products/photon-mono-4-ultra

LED bulbs hardly create any heat so I'm sure it would work quite well with one.

@@samuelphilips6091 Indeed. Especially when the lamps are more for mood and effect.

You’re welcome. 😀

Thank goodness for that!

I had noticed that. Those curing times sound crazy long. It should make for an interesting test though. Perhaps my next test should be to find an indestructible resin 🤣.

Thanks for your question. Sorry about not having a link. But if you send me an email to info@colinklupiec.com I'll happily send you the files directly.

Thanks for your question. I couldn’t say because I’ve only used the D9 Pro. That said, the D9 Pro is a nice device to use.