I'd have thought with the hatch there'd be oily dark patches from hands amd pale scuffs. There'd be a grimy patch where the leather is closest to the hinge too from oils/greases. That for me was the main drawback; it looked too uniform for a larger area pf leather.
@@NightShiftScaleModels also a miniature painter, I love using a combination of Vallejo Chocolate and Flat earth to set my contrasts, and then glaze red
I just wanted to say that you're one of the reasons I got back into modeling and have a Panzer II sitting here on my work bench. Thanks for the inspiration.
Dude, you are _way_ too modest about the quality of your work. I mean, I get it: anyone with a shred of self respect does not like to blow their own trumpet, BUT: there is no shame in _showing_ everyone that you _have_ a trumpet - and that you are prepared to use it! 😉😋 I am _so_ enjoying this.
When painting leather on miniatures I use a single "chipping" colour, usually Scale Color Mojave White, which looks like the light underside of leather to me. I alternate layers of light colour with glazes of the base tone. After 3-4 repeats, there are a lot of different tones caused by the different layers of wear having different amounts of base tone glazed over top. Also, scratches as well as "chipping" work well on leather.
I'm definitely going this route, weathering the lower hull first, on the Sherman I'm painting at the moment - so a big thank you! I'm generally too timid when it comes to changing things up, but this time I'm also seeing if I can brush paint an entire tank without anyone being able to tell it's not airbrushed (overall OD is the ideal candidate). I've painted the lower hull already and it seems to be working, no brush marks or rough texture anywhere. Anyway, all that is to say, thanks, you're an inspiration.
I haven't brush painted an entire model since forever, but considering how good paints are nowadays the only real problem seems to be when they pool around details and crevices. So it's a much slower process than airbrushing, but definitely doable!
@@NightShiftScaleModels That's exactly what I'm finding. As long as I spend the time to build up the paint over detail, it's fine. I really am glad it's a Sherman and NOT a T29, though.
T29 is literally one of my favorite tanks. It is really good in world of tanks blitz too. Its great to see uncle nightshift do a model on the T29. It'd be cool if he did a smasher from world of tanks blitz.
That leather technique was spot-on. If you want to get a bit more subtle with it, give it a glaze with a bit of green, brown, or yellow, to tie the scratches into the surface a bit more. Excellent stuff, yet again, Uncle Nightshift...
Great video as always on fridays, this build inspired me to buy a HobbyBoss T26E4 Super Pershing. And i'm trying out some of your methods on my current Panther Ausf. D. build :)
Don't feel bad using a "wood" color on leather. Using GW paints, my 2 favorite washes to use on gold, copper or brass are Reichlander Fleshshade and Agrax Earthshade. The first is a warm brown/amber designed to create subtle skin tones, it makes brighter golds glow. The other is a muddy grey/brown similar to the color you mix for your rusty pinwashes, it makes redder metallics pop.
I'm I'm.. almost speechless... :D Just 1 small thought in the rust on the projectile impact. If you assume the tank in this time setting have just returned from action, (Based that on the personal gear like helmets ans so outside the tank , do you think making the projectile hits more silverish "bear blank metal" might give the model and paint a more dramatic " story/history", as if the crew just came back from a rough fight, where the crews life just was saved by the armor form 3 impacts just moments earlier? Just a thought. :) I LOVE the work tho. It's ... CGI ++ quality for me, i wish i could feel the texture with my hands, it gotta be awesome :) Thank you for an awesome channel :)
Yet another great video. It's interesting what you say about oil washes vs enamel washes. I think I've spoiled my last few builds by just using enamel washes and the moment I changed back to oils the effects started to work again. But I'm 'old school' anyway, from a time long before the modern paint ranges were available, but I'm mot decrying them, modern paints can be awesome.
Uncle Nightshift, I have an idea you might be interested incorporating into your weathering effects, How about when you do the dusting try to simulate patches/areas that look like they have been wiped with a rag or tankers that have slid off the tank as well as the dusting that looks like rain washed dust. Oh and maybe hand or footprints?
Funny you saying that because I use scale 75s and AkS leather for base coating wood floors on trucks amd armour cars etc! It's come out fantastic in the Miniart British Austin floor!
Looks great so far my friend. Can't wait to see what it looks like when your finished. I been wanting some vallejo old wood, but I can never find it in stock.
For fixing debris to your models and dio bases. Have you ever tried Mod Podge matte? If not, try it. I think you'll really like it. It can be thinned with water and applied in a variety of ways. Once dry, it's crystal clear, totally flat, durable and is available in several different size containers. It is also available in satin and high gloss versions, depending on your needs. The best part is, it's CHEAP! Much cheaper than dedicated model products. Check it out mate.
I was going to suggest Old Wood, but; then you said it. Hell, I couldn't believe it! You are right about not getting hung up on the paint name. Nice job.
I believe that using real dirt is best for mudding etc. I have found watering down regular elmers glue works just as well as the product you are using. I do the same technique with the flat varnish as well.
"I'm just going to give leather effects a try... I hope I don't ruin it..." - *Paints beautiful, perfect looking leather*. You are annoyingly talented, UNS.
Fantastic as always! (Might be a hard no but would you ever consider painting a space marine tank from warhammer 40k?! Would love to see your take on it)
This look so amazing, I love the weathering on the T29E3. I want to ask you when you done with this T29E3 are you going to build a M26 Pershing tank with concrete armor? Just asking
"Voluminous"... close. :) The english word you were looking for was "Viscous". The first word means "billowing", "large", "encompassing"...the word you wanted, Viscous, means "thick". :)
Hey uncle night shift! I was wondering if you could ever do a tutorial on how to chip/whether olive drab on WW2 american armor. I know you have the concrete Sherman video but I was wondering if there could be one on heavy weathering (a tank that has seen a sh*t). I know you don’t have all the time on the world so maybe even a quick vid on a small plastic sheet or something? Love your vids and find them very informational!
Your techniques for weathering is truly unsurpassed. I would love to see your take on a 'brand new' tank, like a Leopard 2A7 that has seen no combat and been well maintained.
Pozdrav, mene interesira (ako si s Balkana, a vjerujem da jesi), neka fejs gripa ili nešto slično, gdje možemo razmijenjivati fotke i iskustva s domaćim "modelerima". Hvala ti! 😁
Cant wait to try these techniques on my kromlech and warlord games heroric & true scale polish TK-3s and TKS tankettes .... yoir mud tricks will be a life saver for the crappy quality tracks on the warlord tankettes ...
Miniature painter here, painting brown as leather using deep purples and red glazes darkens the brown down and gives it that genuine leathery look.
I'll definitely have to try that! These miniature tricks using weird colors are completely new to me.
I'd have thought with the hatch there'd be oily dark patches from hands amd pale scuffs. There'd be a grimy patch where the leather is closest to the hinge too from oils/greases. That for me was the main drawback; it looked too uniform for a larger area pf leather.
@@NightShiftScaleModels also a miniature painter, I love using a combination of Vallejo Chocolate and Flat earth to set my contrasts, and then glaze red
As a fellow night owl, I can confirm that 2am is a very good time to invest some energy into modeling.
_hoot?_
I have to agree with you, however it is a bit hard to the eyes with no sunlight around. BTW I think your nickname is awesome LOL
@@vonsopas oh well thanks XD and yeah i agree, it kinda hurts my eyes sometimes
It really is. I worked on doing my first real wash from 10:00-2:00. Totally worth it
late nights are the best for modelling. creativity and productivity are at their finest at that time
I just wanted to say that you're one of the reasons I got back into modeling and have a Panzer II sitting here on my work bench. Thanks for the inspiration.
Awesome! Have fun with it, it's a very rewarding model - not too big, nor too small, so it's quick to assemble and paint.
Friday and Uncle Nightshift - perfect combination.
Any day with nightshift is a good day
@@rickslotboom8827 if Uncle Nightshift is involved
@@bomomorses exactly what I meant i was in a hurry 😅🤣
@@rickslotboom8827 yeah I see it now lol
Its Tuesday mate !....oh right got ya
Dude, you are _way_ too modest about the quality of your work. I mean, I get it: anyone with a shred of self respect does not like to blow their own trumpet, BUT: there is no shame in _showing_ everyone that you _have_ a trumpet - and that you are prepared to use it! 😉😋
I am _so_ enjoying this.
Well, before I reveal my trumpet I'll have to put some post shading, chipping and rust effects on it :)
I've never built a model and have no plans to do so , but every Friday i tune in to see how it's done
Never did I think Dr. Zoidberg would be teaching me to apply pin washes. What a time to be alive.
What a brilliant job. Pure art.
When painting leather on miniatures I use a single "chipping" colour, usually Scale Color Mojave White, which looks like the light underside of leather to me. I alternate layers of light colour with glazes of the base tone. After 3-4 repeats, there are a lot of different tones caused by the different layers of wear having different amounts of base tone glazed over top. Also, scratches as well as "chipping" work well on leather.
The effect is pleasing, but new leather, considering how new and in short service these tanks were, would also have been acceptable.
I never knew the dried sea grass was a thing until I started watching your videos,it's great stuff!
He has returned, just when we needed him the most. Hallelujah.
I'm definitely going this route, weathering the lower hull first, on the Sherman I'm painting at the moment - so a big thank you! I'm generally too timid when it comes to changing things up, but this time I'm also seeing if I can brush paint an entire tank without anyone being able to tell it's not airbrushed (overall OD is the ideal candidate). I've painted the lower hull already and it seems to be working, no brush marks or rough texture anywhere. Anyway, all that is to say, thanks, you're an inspiration.
I haven't brush painted an entire model since forever, but considering how good paints are nowadays the only real problem seems to be when they pool around details and crevices. So it's a much slower process than airbrushing, but definitely doable!
@@NightShiftScaleModels That's exactly what I'm finding. As long as I spend the time to build up the paint over detail, it's fine. I really am glad it's a Sherman and NOT a T29, though.
Fridays are already good, then night shift uploads and they get even better!
Ah, nothing better than painting models and listening to uncle night shift's voice
Not Friday without Uncle Nightshift
T29 is literally one of my favorite tanks. It is really good in world of tanks blitz too. Its great to see uncle nightshift do a model on the T29. It'd be cool if he did a smasher from world of tanks blitz.
i think he wont because its just a fictional tank and there is no model kit of it available
@@teddybar1236 it could go off of a KV-2
@@Raxceryte yap thats true, would be a really interesting model
@@teddybar1236 yes
Cool to see detail progres from each model to another.
I don't even do models or ever want to make one, but watching this is therapeutic
That leather technique was spot-on. If you want to get a bit more subtle with it, give it a glaze with a bit of green, brown, or yellow, to tie the scratches into the surface a bit more.
Excellent stuff, yet again, Uncle Nightshift...
This video gave me inspiration to fix my airbrush so I did and I am really happy with it because I am now able to finish my models.
3:11 I see what you did there lol. Great video and project, my friend
I’m sooo excited to see the diorama that’s gunna go with this
So detailed, so realistic, so satisfying to watch the progress every week.
Another great video. It would be great if this special paint jar which remove paint from airbrush's cup was available!
Muh friends. This build just keeps getting better and better.
Cool techniques. Just built my first tank, see that I have soo much to learn from you. Truly inspirational!
And your leather effect was really good!
Once more, uncle nightshift delivers!
What a nice way to start the weekend
Simply sublime Night Shift. One of your best.
Master of models you! The leathers looks really nice and worn.
Looks like my old leather chair did.. nice job again. Really enjoying these latest vids! Cheers
Great video as always on fridays, this build inspired me to buy a HobbyBoss T26E4 Super Pershing. And i'm trying out some of your methods on my current Panther Ausf. D. build :)
The leather weathering is spot on. Its exact same technique i use on minis
I put this on and did a test with this playing in the background, got a 7/7 so I'll attribute it to how awesome the model is going
That's a whole next level student life hack!
Don't feel bad using a "wood" color on leather. Using GW paints, my 2 favorite washes to use on gold, copper or brass are Reichlander Fleshshade and Agrax Earthshade. The first is a warm brown/amber designed to create subtle skin tones, it makes brighter golds glow. The other is a muddy grey/brown similar to the color you mix for your rusty pinwashes, it makes redder metallics pop.
When it comes to clear parts I actually go back over them with Tamiya lacquer thinner and a paint brush to clean them up.
3:12 well that was trippy
Oh! The tools look spectacular.
3:11 - Next-level backwards pour!
Definitely one of my favourite builds of yours dude, amazing work!
This chap is superb, what a great way to start the weekend with this inspiration, already waiting for the next video!!! Night shift is the MAN!
Looking great and it just gets better and better.
I'm I'm.. almost speechless... :D Just 1 small thought in the rust on the projectile impact. If you assume the tank in this time setting have just returned from action, (Based that on the personal gear like helmets ans so outside the tank , do you think making the projectile hits more silverish "bear blank metal" might give the model and paint a more dramatic " story/history", as if the crew just came back from a rough fight, where the crews life just was saved by the armor form 3 impacts just moments earlier? Just a thought. :) I LOVE the work tho. It's ... CGI ++ quality for me, i wish i could feel the texture with my hands, it gotta be awesome :) Thank you for an awesome channel :)
these videos are great! They keep me motivated.
It's the most woderfull tiiime of the weeeek!
Yet another great video. It's interesting what you say about oil washes vs enamel washes. I think I've spoiled my last few builds by just using enamel washes and the moment I changed back to oils the effects started to work again. But I'm 'old school' anyway, from a time long before the modern paint ranges were available, but I'm mot decrying them, modern paints can be awesome.
Looks great!
Thank you , Uncle Martin .
Uncle Nightshift, I have an idea you might be interested incorporating into your weathering effects,
How about when you do the dusting try to simulate patches/areas that look like they have been wiped with a rag or tankers that have slid off the tank as well as the dusting that looks like rain washed dust. Oh and maybe hand or footprints?
Alright, a new night shift video. And just in time as I finally finished fixing my airbrush.
Same.
Also my first bottle of chipping fluid just arrived. Can't wait to try it out on some old trash model.
Nice i was then just back from the park
@@fonesrphunny7242 i wish you success
Funny you saying that because I use scale 75s and AkS leather for base coating wood floors on trucks amd armour cars etc! It's come out fantastic in the Miniart British Austin floor!
Looks great so far my friend. Can't wait to see what it looks like when your finished. I been wanting some vallejo old wood, but I can never find it in stock.
Those tools are gorgeous.
This is an awesome model tank
For fixing debris to your models and dio bases. Have you ever tried Mod Podge matte? If not, try it. I think you'll really like it. It can be thinned with water and applied in a variety of ways. Once dry, it's crystal clear, totally flat, durable and is available in several different size containers. It is also available in satin and high gloss versions, depending on your needs. The best part is, it's CHEAP! Much cheaper than dedicated model products. Check it out mate.
OIL PAINT SIMP!
UNCLE NIGHTSHIFT MORE LIKE UNCLE NIGHTSIMP!!!!!
Epic model I cant wait what u do next
this series has inspired me to buy the T29 in WT
I was going to suggest Old Wood, but; then you said it. Hell, I couldn't believe it! You are right about not getting hung up on the paint name. Nice job.
Best one yet!! (and that is saying a LOT!)
You are so good at this
I believe that using real dirt is best for mudding etc. I have found watering down regular elmers glue works just as well as the product you are using. I do the same technique with the flat varnish as well.
Wow the old wood chipping on the leather looks like torn parts on the surface exposing sponge underneath
Clicked faster than I should have tbh. Thoroughly enjoying the vid so far! Well done!
Hey Derpy
@@MarkM22 oh hi Mark
Love your work
That is one grimy boy! It looks great though, although I’m sad you didn’t use soil from the Rhineland itself. Hehe, Great job!
Great vid, thanks for sharing!!!!!!!!!! 👍👍👍
"I'm just going to give leather effects a try... I hope I don't ruin it..." - *Paints beautiful, perfect looking leather*. You are annoyingly talented, UNS.
Annoying in a Very Gooodd Way 🤗🤗🤗🤗.
All credit goes to the Leather color from Vallejo, it's just perfect :)
Awesome as Always
Should be at a pep fest for our school, instead I'm in the bathroom watching this
Paints a leather cover over a surface, to which he had already given meticulous steel chipping during a previous video. :)
At least we all know it was there :)
Uow! how did you manage to get the paint from the airbrush back into the vial at 3:11? that is a nice technic!🤣😂🤣😂
Voluminous, the word you were looking for was viscous
Another amazing piece of work..Stunning ! Cheers 👍🇦🇺
Fantastic as always! (Might be a hard no but would you ever consider painting a space marine tank from warhammer 40k?! Would love to see your take on it)
I would like to see a havy worn out Panzer IV at the end of the war with a loot of mud. I thibkt it woud be interesting. Great Vid as always.
This looks so good it's tasty !
Tho... that leather pad on the hatch looks more like a weathered wooden pad that was painted. But it's just me.
This look so amazing, I love the weathering on the T29E3. I want to ask you when you done with this T29E3 are you going to build a M26 Pershing tank with concrete armor? Just asking
Try some grass seeds they’re expensive but work just fine
"Voluminous"... close. :) The english word you were looking for was "Viscous". The first word means "billowing", "large", "encompassing"...the word you wanted, Viscous, means "thick".
:)
Everything deserves to be chipped- Uncle Nighshift 2021
LPJ Models does a fantastic job on a worn leather padding in his Minerva video, as far as I remember - You should definitely check it out
How long did you have to have the abteilung oil dry to get the linseed oil out? How do you find them compared to Wilder?
Finally! I have bin waiting.
Great one.
Did anyone else notice that the clip at 3:12 was reversed?
saw that I though his airbrush tip was not in place! lol
Cool Cool Cool!
Hey uncle night shift! I was wondering if you could ever do a tutorial on how to chip/whether olive drab on WW2 american armor. I know you have the concrete Sherman video but I was wondering if there could be one on heavy weathering (a tank that has seen a sh*t). I know you don’t have all the time on the world so maybe even a quick vid on a small plastic sheet or something? Love your vids and find them very informational!
Your techniques for weathering is truly unsurpassed. I would love to see your take on a 'brand new' tank, like a Leopard 2A7 that has seen no combat and been well maintained.
These tanks are fun because they're not beaten up, but usually get VERY muddy during practice runs and trainings :)
Next video: The model is already pre-finished.
mah friends
Looking fantastic...do more US armor!
Top notch!!!
Beautiful work on the inside of the hatch, but you know what it really looks like? Bakelite, like bakelite AK magazines
Pozdrav, mene interesira (ako si s Balkana, a vjerujem da jesi), neka fejs gripa ili nešto slično, gdje možemo razmijenjivati fotke i iskustva s domaćim "modelerima".
Hvala ti! 😁
Brush chipping vs hairspray/ chipping fluid vs salt chipping?
Cant wait to try these techniques on my kromlech and warlord games heroric & true scale polish TK-3s and TKS tankettes .... yoir mud tricks will be a life saver for the crappy quality tracks on the warlord tankettes ...
И снова пятница!!!
So good! All the best for You! ;)
Hello Friday