It ALWAYS makes me nervous to pull the rear drums. I have the replica K.R. Wilson puller (which works great), but the "bang" when the hub finally lets go always gets me. Another great video sir!
Another Great vid Mart. I remember getting the drums of a beetle using a 6ft lump of scaffolding pole over a breaker bar. Tense moment. Worked out fine though. Shame about the wasted money on poorly remade spares, seems to be quite a thing now when repairing any car. Thanks for showing that. See ya after your break, have fun. looking forward to next instalment and a ride out. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I can't see how it could be done and not cause potential leaks in the bore. I have bought some more cylinders since recording that are still drilled wrong, but not as badly wrong as the ones I bought some time ago.
What I ment was to drill and tap a grub screw and locktite it in. Then drill a new hole farther back threw the grub scew. The hard bit would be reaming the protruding end of the grub screw in the bore.All the best Peter
Hi Mart, is there any companys that currently make pullers for banjo rears ,and Im thinking of reputable manufacturer considering that pressure ! Love this content .thanks
Dunno Phil. The K R Wilson is the best, this VP one is a good second. Good second hand units are about but tend to be for the 100E size which is a bit smaller. Good luck if you're trying to find one. I ordered mine from the states and a friend carried it back for me. Lucky me.
Hi Mart great content as usual, I did wonder how tight to tighten the rear axle nut ( tight that you fear for your life )😂, a question if you don’t mind, my 36 coupe has taller tyres on the rear compared with the front ( like that when I bought it ) and I see your 33 has the same, was this standard or more of a rodding thing. Thanks for years of invaluable information.
Mart, I've always thought that the brake shoe with the longer lining goes on the rearward side. Is that not true with early Ford brakes? I have very little experience with them....
Hi Grampa. That became the norm for self energising brakes. The early Ford are non self energising and the longer lining and the larger end of the cylinder go to the leading shoe which is at the front. Thanks for watching and commenting.
The 33/34 and the Y type share a resemblance in the styling. It's not a Tudor as such, but a 5 window coupe. A Tudor (Two Door) refers to the two door sedan. The 4 door sedan is sometimes called a Fordor. I think there is a loss in translation with Tudor the american term being pronounced like two door and English people thinking it is like Henry Tudor (Henry the 8th).
It ALWAYS makes me nervous to pull the rear drums. I have the replica K.R. Wilson puller (which works great), but the "bang" when the hub finally lets go always gets me. Another great video sir!
Nice job Mart! You will have the 33 back on the road in no time at all.
This is a great car, it's so cool.
Another Great vid Mart. I remember getting the drums of a beetle using a 6ft lump of scaffolding pole over a breaker bar. Tense moment. Worked out fine though. Shame about the wasted money on poorly remade spares, seems to be quite a thing now when repairing any car. Thanks for showing that. See ya after your break, have fun. looking forward to next instalment and a ride out. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Another great vid, Mart. I really like the hub puller of yours. It looks very sturdy and appears to work well.
Hi Mike. it does work well, that's why I plug the makers when I can.
Great video Mart enjoy your break
Thanks Billy, we're back now and had a nice few days away.
another fascinating video, cheers Mart 👍👍👍👍
Hi mart could the slave cylinders rebored and blocked with a big stud and then bored at the correct angle. All thr best Peter
I can't see how it could be done and not cause potential leaks in the bore. I have bought some more cylinders since recording that are still drilled wrong, but not as badly wrong as the ones I bought some time ago.
What I ment was to drill and tap a grub screw and locktite it in. Then drill a new hole farther back threw the grub scew. The hard bit would be reaming the protruding end of the grub screw in the bore.All the best Peter
Hi Mart, is there any companys that currently make pullers for banjo rears ,and Im thinking of reputable manufacturer considering that pressure !
Love this content .thanks
Dunno Phil. The K R Wilson is the best, this VP one is a good second. Good second hand units are about but tend to be for the 100E size which is a bit smaller. Good luck if you're trying to find one. I ordered mine from the states and a friend carried it back for me. Lucky me.
Hi. Mart, what’s the lube you used on the boot of the mc? Red grease or something special?
It's a specific grease for rubber brake components.
Also, do you always tighten up the the individual brakes before bleeding? Seems like it’s a good idea, just never heard of it before.
Hi Hunt. Yeah, I sometimes put the shoes hard against the drum then readjust later. I'm not sure it helps but I don't think it makes things worse.
It's normal practice so you aren't pushing the M/C 4" to get brakes 😅
Thank, Mart, for both replies, especially the tight shoes technique while bleeding.
Hi Mart great content as usual, I did wonder how tight to tighten the rear axle nut ( tight that you fear for your life )😂, a question if you don’t mind, my 36 coupe has taller tyres on the rear compared with the front ( like that when I bought it ) and I see your 33 has the same, was this standard or more of a rodding thing. Thanks for years of invaluable information.
It's a hot rodding think. "Bigs and littles". Thanks for watching and commenting.
Mart, I've always thought that the brake shoe with the longer lining goes on the rearward side. Is that not true with early Ford brakes? I have very little experience with them....
Hi Grampa. That became the norm for self energising brakes. The early Ford are non self energising and the longer lining and the larger end of the cylinder go to the leading shoe which is at the front. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi mart is that a Tudor ford ,from the front it is similar to a y type ford I like that grill style interesting vid thanks
The 33/34 and the Y type share a resemblance in the styling. It's not a Tudor as such, but a 5 window coupe. A Tudor (Two Door) refers to the two door sedan. The 4 door sedan is sometimes called a Fordor. I think there is a loss in translation with Tudor the american term being pronounced like two door and English people thinking it is like Henry Tudor (Henry the 8th).