Bro. I like the idea and I LOVE Quadmula frames. I have 6 of them. Just a little helpful advice for next time you waterproof: FPV Worry Free on all your boards and motor wire to ESC connections then seal up the camera and VTX. Add a glob of dielectric grease to all the plugs on your boards and put a little rubber stopper in your USB port and seal it up too. Thats about it. If your battery is in good condition, it is already waterproof. I recommend the caddx vista for waterproofing because all you need to do is seal around the edges and it becomes submersible. Also, there is no SD card to worry about. The MIPI Cable has an actual sleeve around the wires so you just seal the ends in the Vista and seal the camera and you wont lose video underwater or risk water wicking into your camera or VTX through the MIPI cable wires. You have to make the O3 naked to waterproof it. If not, you have to completely enclose it. Either way you still have an SD card to deal with. But the worst part about the O3 is that dumb braided MIPI cable. It is just like a braided rope with the wires inside. It isn't waterproof AT ALL! That's why you lost video when the quad was in the water. That water can and will wick up those wires and into your Air Unit or camera. I still haven't really figured out a good way of combating this issue for waterproofing the O3 so I stick with waterproofing Vistas. Fly Daze FPV has an interesting method, but it is very involved. I have made 3 of my quads submersible and I think people tend to over think waterproofing. If you just want to fly in the rain, a thin layer of conformal will do the job. I like to add a little B7000 to all my solder joints which has the added benefit of making them waterproof as well. Ihope this helps anybody who wants to submerge their quad and fly it back out. It is super fun!
Hey man! Thanks for your super valuable insights, gonna pin your comment. For the MIDI cable, thats a real good information, I'll try to figure something out with it. I will definetly have a look at FlyDaze! Yeah I agree it is super fun and just opens a lot of possibilities...
@@LippeMann Wow! Thanks man! Since you pinned it I guess I should add a couple things I forgot to mention in my original comment: The first is your control link and video link and their corresponding antennas. Both 5.8 Ghz (video) and 2.4 Ghz (rc link) are blocked by water. I didn't notice weather your video antenna was out of the water or not when you lost video, but if it was under water, that is probably why you lost video. It could be the MIPI cable, too, but if you have a stubby antenna, that's probably the culprit. I use a long range antenna for video link on any quad I want to submerge. As for your RC link, 900 MHz will penetrate more water than 2.4 Ghz. I don't know exactly how much, but it will penetrate more. I use 900 MHz ELRS diversity and try to keep one of the antennas out of the water. Either a vertical mount immortal-T or a True RC Bardpole. Lastly, everything I've said up to this point is meant for fresh water. Salt water is a whole different animal. If you want to make your quad salt-waterproof, I'd check out Fly Daze on RUclips. He does mny more waterproof quads than I do and I learned a lot of this information by watching his videos. Also check out Brandon FPV. He is the creator of FPV Worry Free. Thanks again for the kind words and the pin.
I too would like to add if you want a full salt waterproof solution to contact Flydaze. I use his method too. For my quadmula split f5 but just transferred all its guts to a qav cine pro frame to have protection of the props for when flying around folks.. why do I want waterproofing.. cause I live on an island and a lot of footage is above water... salt that is. The mipi cable is a big problem in this but depending on if you want to save it in a little creek/stream... or just want be able to take off from the water again the solution Fydaze has is the one you want if you want a saltwater submarine that can take off again. if you just want to fly in the rain then indeed this will do.. and the battery does not even need waterproofing.
Great advice with the Vista. I tried to waterproof my vista and removed every heatsink and dipped it in conformal coating. Now it looks disgusting and i have yet to test if it still works. Now i am considering cleaning the vista, adding back the heatsinks with thermal glue or similar and just, as u suggested, seal the sides. I really did overthink it and followed the video of troncat fpv, but i dont feel confortable with the result (due to no heatpipes).
Bro risked it all! I love to see this type of testing lost several 03s to the pond behind my house will have to look in to this stuff. Great job brother keep being awesome !
Cool, danke für das Update Video! Ich hoffe es ist nicht zu schwer den Djinn auf unter 250 g zu bringen. Das steht mir noch bevor und einen Buzzer (2,7g) will ich am liebsten mit verbauen😅
Ne sub 250g geht schon. Wenn du etwas "kleinere" Akkus nutzt, sehe ich da kein Problem. Ich würde die hier empfehlen: www.rotorama.de/product/gnb-650mah-4s-120c-hv
I think it would be possible, you just have to enclose the whole air unit box somehow... but then that leaves potential issues with overheating. And also the SD card / USB C port...
I have added a small heatsink that definetly helps with the overheating: ruclips.net/video/gSQIf50RVzM/видео.html I did not experience any heat problems so far
I live near Köln until summer. Then I‘m in Berlin. I‘d be honored to fly with the man who produces the best looking O3 footage on RUclips. I‘ll get in contact through your webpage.
@@Ztall0880 Ah okay, got it. You can head over to: www.printables.com/model/616992-quadmula-djinn-f25-series/files and download the files. Then find one of those online 3D print services, or maybe in your area and get it printed 😊
I also made an ultra light. But now I have a strange problem: during a steady flight everything is fine, but if I make sharp maneuvers - the video in the glasses slows down or even freezes for a second or two. Of course, this leads to a fall. The video that is recorded on the module is fine. The problem is with the video transmission. I think it is somehow connected with the removal of all the covers. I could assume that I made a mistake somewhere, but it is noticeable that TWO dji o3 behave this way, which I stripped naked. In this video, a comparison of the video from the glasses and from the module. For two different o3. I thought that perhaps the P1 cannot work without cooling, but I have seen many for whom it works perfectly. ruclips.net/video/MazC1bxI3OA/видео.htmlsi=HFxE9DnrtbNLpOMe Are there any ideas?
Maybe you can try to add a small heatsink like I did: ruclips.net/video/gSQIf50RVzM/видео.html I did not experience this kind of problems with my solution. Have you tried turning off the "Automatic Low Power Mode" ? I noticed that sometimes (very rarely and I don't know how to reproduce it) my O3 decides to not exit the low power mode, even though the "warning" in the goggles goes away. It then stays around 7Mbps for transmission and it resembles the behaviour you are describing...
@@LippeMann that was my first idea. But when I put the thermal paste and cover back on the P1 chip it did not help. but when I put it on the other side of the plate it helped. Unfortunately, the other o3 with the same problem stopped working at all and I cannot reproduce the same cure one more time.
Absolut! Ist mein "Hauptquad" geworden. Denke mal dass 3" noch etwas effizienter ist, bei vergleichbarem Gewicht. Allerdings macht es glaube ich keinen großen Unterschied.
My drone isn’t waterproof. Crashed on a river bank. Full of mud.. Went home. Rinsed it under cold water in bathroom everything was soaked.. Then i used the hairdryer for about 10 min on it and let it sit by the fan for a day.. Next day plugged battery in and everything worked like normal. The key is it didn’t get wet with the battery plugged in. Only muddy but esc was dry.
Bro. I like the idea and I LOVE Quadmula frames. I have 6 of them. Just a little helpful advice for next time you waterproof: FPV Worry Free on all your boards and motor wire to ESC connections then seal up the camera and VTX. Add a glob of dielectric grease to all the plugs on your boards and put a little rubber stopper in your USB port and seal it up too. Thats about it.
If your battery is in good condition, it is already waterproof. I recommend the caddx vista for waterproofing because all you need to do is seal around the edges and it becomes submersible. Also, there is no SD card to worry about. The MIPI Cable has an actual sleeve around the wires so you just seal the ends in the Vista and seal the camera and you wont lose video underwater or risk water wicking into your camera or VTX through the MIPI cable wires.
You have to make the O3 naked to waterproof it. If not, you have to completely enclose it. Either way you still have an SD card to deal with. But the worst part about the O3 is that dumb braided MIPI cable. It is just like a braided rope with the wires inside. It isn't waterproof AT ALL! That's why you lost video when the quad was in the water. That water can and will wick up those wires and into your Air Unit or camera. I still haven't really figured out a good way of combating this issue for waterproofing the O3 so I stick with waterproofing Vistas. Fly Daze FPV has an interesting method, but it is very involved.
I have made 3 of my quads submersible and I think people tend to over think waterproofing. If you just want to fly in the rain, a thin layer of conformal will do the job. I like to add a little B7000 to all my solder joints which has the added benefit of making them waterproof as well. Ihope this helps anybody who wants to submerge their quad and fly it back out. It is super fun!
Hey man! Thanks for your super valuable insights, gonna pin your comment. For the MIDI cable, thats a real good information, I'll try to figure something out with it. I will definetly have a look at FlyDaze! Yeah I agree it is super fun and just opens a lot of possibilities...
@@LippeMann Wow! Thanks man! Since you pinned it I guess I should add a couple things I forgot to mention in my original comment:
The first is your control link and video link and their corresponding antennas. Both 5.8 Ghz (video) and 2.4 Ghz (rc link) are blocked by water. I didn't notice weather your video antenna was out of the water or not when you lost video, but if it was under water, that is probably why you lost video. It could be the MIPI cable, too, but if you have a stubby antenna, that's probably the culprit. I use a long range antenna for video link on any quad I want to submerge.
As for your RC link, 900 MHz will penetrate more water than 2.4 Ghz. I don't know exactly how much, but it will penetrate more. I use 900 MHz ELRS diversity and try to keep one of the antennas out of the water. Either a vertical mount immortal-T or a True RC Bardpole.
Lastly, everything I've said up to this point is meant for fresh water. Salt water is a whole different animal. If you want to make your quad salt-waterproof, I'd check out Fly Daze on RUclips. He does mny more waterproof quads than I do and I learned a lot of this information by watching his videos. Also check out Brandon FPV. He is the creator of FPV Worry Free.
Thanks again for the kind words and the pin.
I too would like to add if you want a full salt waterproof solution to contact Flydaze. I use his method too. For my quadmula split f5 but just transferred all its guts to a qav cine pro frame to have protection of the props for when flying around folks.. why do I want waterproofing.. cause I live on an island and a lot of footage is above water... salt that is. The mipi cable is a big problem in this but depending on if you want to save it in a little creek/stream... or just want be able to take off from the water again the solution Fydaze has is the one you want if you want a saltwater submarine that can take off again.
if you just want to fly in the rain then indeed this will do.. and the battery does not even need waterproofing.
Great advice with the Vista. I tried to waterproof my vista and removed every heatsink and dipped it in conformal coating. Now it looks disgusting and i have yet to test if it still works. Now i am considering cleaning the vista, adding back the heatsinks with thermal glue or similar and just, as u suggested, seal the sides. I really did overthink it and followed the video of troncat fpv, but i dont feel confortable with the result (due to no heatpipes).
Awesome video man. Ill try to waterproof mine aswell when i build it out! Keep up!
Bro risked it all! I love to see this type of testing lost several 03s to the pond behind my house will have to look in to this stuff. Great job brother keep being awesome !
Thank you! Glad I could help you :)
Love to see these kinds of videos. Keep it up man
Thanks Eder! Sure thing!
Nice video and good explaination!
Thank you!
Love this would like to see it fly and maybe a waterfall dive?
Hahahah! Yeah that's the idea of all of this effort!
Nice edit and pointers, subscribed!
Thx man!
@@LippeMann you're welcome!
Thanks for the entertainment mate and the education 👍
Sure thing! Happy you liked it!
Cool, danke für das Update Video! Ich hoffe es ist nicht zu schwer den Djinn auf unter 250 g zu bringen. Das steht mir noch bevor und einen Buzzer (2,7g) will ich am liebsten mit verbauen😅
Ne sub 250g geht schon. Wenn du etwas "kleinere" Akkus nutzt, sehe ich da kein Problem. Ich würde die hier empfehlen: www.rotorama.de/product/gnb-650mah-4s-120c-hv
I did the rainproof version 2 days ago.
Hahah ja bei dem Wetter auch definitiv sinnvoll 😂
Hey there! Video about my recording and editing process is coming up next!
Thats great! Tho i wonder if its still sub 250g, thats my biggest concern.
Yup, still is! Even with the GNB 850mah 4S
Klasse, 👍🏻 gut gemacht. Gruß Sascha
Danke Danke!
Hi, cooles Video.
Wie nimmst du die SD Karte aus der O3 um die Video zu bekommen?
Hi Danke Danke!
Gar nicht, ich nutze nur die USB C Verbindung um die O3 mit dem Computer zu verbinden.
Oh very cool ! Thx 4 showing :)
Gerne Gerne!
Thanks for making this vid! Can you water proof o3 without making it naked?
I think it would be possible, you just have to enclose the whole air unit box somehow... but then that leaves potential issues with overheating. And also the SD card / USB C port...
What about the cooling of a coated air unit?
I have added a small heatsink that definetly helps with the overheating: ruclips.net/video/gSQIf50RVzM/видео.html
I did not experience any heat problems so far
Awesome 👏🏼
Thx!
Great Tutorial!
I‘m literally about to do the same 😅.
Let‘s fly together some time.
Yeah do it, its worth it to not worry about water, if you can retrieve it! Sure where are you located?
I live near Köln until summer. Then I‘m in Berlin.
I‘d be honored to fly with the man who produces the best looking O3 footage on RUclips.
I‘ll get in contact through your webpage.
@@crazy-cinema Ah okay, yeah lets see how this works out
any store from where i can buy 3d printed parts ? i don't have a 3d printer
What parts are you looking for in particular? The ones for the Djinn are available on quadmulas webshop.
@@LippeMann it takes time to ship to europe... i'm thinking to get some 3d parts for arm guard & gps module and antennas
@@Ztall0880 Ah okay, got it. You can head over to: www.printables.com/model/616992-quadmula-djinn-f25-series/files
and download the files. Then find one of those online 3D print services, or maybe in your area and get it printed 😊
I also made an ultra light. But now I have a strange problem: during a steady flight everything is fine, but if I make sharp maneuvers - the video in the glasses slows down or even freezes for a second or two. Of course, this leads to a fall. The video that is recorded on the module is fine. The problem is with the video transmission. I think it is somehow connected with the removal of all the covers. I could assume that I made a mistake somewhere, but it is noticeable that TWO dji o3 behave this way, which I stripped naked.
In this video, a comparison of the video from the glasses and from the module. For two different o3. I thought that perhaps the P1 cannot work without cooling, but I have seen many for whom it works perfectly.
ruclips.net/video/MazC1bxI3OA/видео.htmlsi=HFxE9DnrtbNLpOMe
Are there any ideas?
Maybe you can try to add a small heatsink like I did: ruclips.net/video/gSQIf50RVzM/видео.html
I did not experience this kind of problems with my solution.
Have you tried turning off the "Automatic Low Power Mode" ? I noticed that sometimes (very rarely and I don't know how to reproduce it) my O3 decides to not exit the low power mode, even though the "warning" in the goggles goes away. It then stays around 7Mbps for transmission and it resembles the behaviour you are describing...
@@LippeMann that was my first idea. But when I put the thermal paste and cover back on the P1 chip it did not help. but when I put it on the other side of the plate it helped. Unfortunately, the other o3 with the same problem stopped working at all and I cannot reproduce the same cure one more time.
Bist Du zufrieden mit dem DJInn25? Fliegt er sich anders als ein 3 Inch?
Absolut! Ist mein "Hauptquad" geworden. Denke mal dass 3" noch etwas effizienter ist, bei vergleichbarem Gewicht. Allerdings macht es glaube ich keinen großen Unterschied.
My drone isn’t waterproof. Crashed on a river bank. Full of mud.. Went home. Rinsed it under cold water in bathroom everything was soaked.. Then i used the hairdryer for about 10 min on it and let it sit by the fan for a day.. Next day plugged battery in and everything worked like normal. The key is it didn’t get wet with the battery plugged in. Only muddy but esc was dry.
Glad you could recover it and it still works! Keep flying!
hau mal neues video raus
Ich setzt mich am WE dran!
I hope you get enough clips to get another one, because that's useless now. It's just gonna overheat easy
What do you mean? It overheats bc of the extra silicon on there? I'm flying it in this setup since January and never had a problem...