Thanks Sam! Cool video. I've done this mainly with Type 99 Arisakas just to see what they measure at. It is interesting information but I found that just loading various sized projectiles and seeing how they shoot also gives good data. I'll load up .308, .310, .311, and .312's and see how they shoot. Some rifles will shoot all great and some only .312's and bigger. Sometimes shooting too small of a projectile (.308) through some mosins with larger bores (.314+) will cause squibs and fail to ignite some powders all the way and leave you with sooty cases. Always fun testing!
Hey, Big Sam.....you so fureaking cool buddy..thank you for ALL your videos,,,super helpful AND educating.... especially the history and explaining stamps!!! I'm always waiting for the next video and please keep up the awsome work!!!!
Good idea to slug bores when in question. One trick is to put a patch in the receiver to catch the slug when it comes out of the chamber end. That way it won't deform after hitting the floor.
It's a little bit easier (and cheaper) to use lead sinker weights. Note - they must be lead only! Their shape is more bullet-like, so easier to push through.
Everyone should have a bullet mold for every gun they shoot and intend to keep, so cast a Tin or Pewter bullet and use that for this as tin will hold it's shape and size better than dead soft lead ball and you can catalog all your gun bores.
I've done this to my Mosins and I used a larger .50 cal round ball. The larger lead fills the barrel better than that barely oversize .315 ball.Excess lead just peels away when driving ball down barrel.
Sam, please, I have a question. Why do they call it an iodine red shellac finish? Did they add prilled iodine to the shellac? Are there any references to the original Mosin finish durring and pre-war?
According to The Mosin Nagant Rifle 4th ed by Terrence W. Lapin (2007): "Finland (Stamped on barrels and/or stocks to indicate that the weapon had been reworked to fire the Finnish D166 cartridge)"
Hey MB, good to see you. The Lemon guy is right..They reworked the chamber to accomodate the the larger D-166 bullet. I kinda avoid those digi chinese calipers, not the most accurate, Instead of case lube, and oils, i just use wheel bearing grease. Other than that He got it right...Oh, I bought Oak dowel rod for this, a little tougher. Take care...Drink more Shine and Eat more Bacon !!! @@MegaBait1616
Hey Sam, 👋 thanks again for the help. I haven't forgotten about ya. Its key to point out to measure the groves not the lands.
Happy to see a new video. You keep making them!!!👍👍
Thanks Sam! Cool video. I've done this mainly with Type 99 Arisakas just to see what they measure at. It is interesting information but I found that just loading various sized projectiles and seeing how they shoot also gives good data. I'll load up .308, .310, .311, and .312's and see how they shoot. Some rifles will shoot all great and some only .312's and bigger. Sometimes shooting too small of a projectile (.308) through some mosins with larger bores (.314+) will cause squibs and fail to ignite some powders all the way and leave you with sooty cases. Always fun testing!
Nice quick and easy technique! I'll try it! 👍👍
Hey, Big Sam.....you so fureaking cool buddy..thank you for ALL your videos,,,super helpful AND educating.... especially the history and explaining stamps!!! I'm always waiting for the next video and please keep up the awsome work!!!!
Hey Sam good to see you back. that is cool , THANKS for showing!
Good idea to slug bores when in question. One trick is to put a patch in the receiver to catch the slug when it comes out of the chamber end. That way it won't deform after hitting the floor.
It's a little bit easier (and cheaper) to use lead sinker weights. Note - they must be lead only! Their shape is more bullet-like, so easier to push through.
Everyone should have a bullet mold for every gun they shoot and intend to keep, so cast a Tin or Pewter bullet and use that for this as tin will hold it's shape and size better than dead soft lead ball and you can catalog all your gun bores.
I checked my new finish m28/30 and I got pretty much the same measurement from the slug as by just putting the calipers in the muzzle. I got a .308
Lol so random actually researched that a day ago. Thank you Sam!
Thank you, Sam. Great information !
The Carcano rifles are perfect example, most commercially-made ammo the bullet .264 and the military-type ammo is .268 (I believe)
I've done this to my Mosins and I used a larger .50 cal round ball. The larger lead fills the barrel better than that barely oversize .315 ball.Excess lead just peels away when driving ball down barrel.
So a lead 00 buck would be ok to slug with
Sam, please, I have a question. Why do they call it an iodine red shellac finish? Did they add prilled iodine to the shellac? Are there any references to the original Mosin finish durring and pre-war?
Nice video, what would the optimal bullet diameter for this barrel that measured 0.313?
Sam, Question : one of my M-39's has a barrel marked " D " do you know what it means ?? TY........
According to The Mosin Nagant Rifle 4th ed by Terrence W. Lapin (2007):
"Finland (Stamped on barrels and/or stocks to indicate that the weapon had been reworked to fire the
Finnish D166 cartridge)"
@@edible_lemon TY......
Hey MB, good to see you. The Lemon guy is right..They reworked the chamber to accomodate the the larger D-166 bullet. I kinda avoid those digi chinese calipers, not the most accurate, Instead of case lube, and oils, i just use wheel bearing grease. Other than that He got it right...Oh, I bought Oak dowel rod for this, a little tougher. Take care...Drink more Shine and Eat more Bacon !!! @@MegaBait1616
@@brucechynoweth , lol.. thank You 👍.
D166 is a long heavy bullet so they made more room before the rifle grooves start.
with that measurement what ammo will be needed then?. you kind of didn't finish the "how to". imho.
Instead of that measure the inside of a fired case with a caliper.