As a prepress specialist I would recommend that the dieline and bleed spot colors “overprint” on your Illustrator file. To overprint a color ( so it’s not “knockout of the image”) go to attributes and highlight the bleed & dielines and click overprint.
I would recommend that black text “overprint” on your Illustrator file. (Short-key: First select text or another black object fill or stroke and press ctrl+F11 and select fill or stroke as need), what about basic registration marks for machine process?
Wouw!… tht was just in ONE word “amazing” thank you i rly like it,.. just one thing if u may allow me,. “Bleed and dieline should be overprint strokes” so in pdf output preview dont scratch over print area! That was an extra bounce tip, thank you! I rly appreciated!.
Godddddddddd! finally, the most needed one thankyou so much plz keep putting up the similar content. & one suggestion for the video editor, if you don't mind the video thumbnail should be enlarged on the screen when ever you are explaining & not active in the apps interface.
A quick way to change the composition of the 3115 color is simply to fetch the original color from the library as you did but, then, in the Swatches palette, select the new color, hold the Alt key and drop it over the original 3115 "CMYK" swatch.
Hey Claudio, thanks for the comment! Great highlight. Did not know of that one but we will be using it in the future. Just add in the rename of the color to keep it clean and boom! Appreciate the feedback.
@@PrintDesignAcademy you know whats even easier? edit the existing swatch > change dropdown from "process color" to "spot color" like you did for the dieline and bleed line. no need to worry about the spot color definition (cmyk vs lab vs whatever), and the numbers). The printer's RIP should handle the separation just fine by name. As long as you're using a reputable print service provider that has a properly configured RIP, anyway... send stuff off to cheap online gang printers or no-name chinese print shops and you gets what you gets.
SO HELPFUL! thank you so much! please do more courses and tutorials on different print matter, maybe some paper things like posters, zines, etc. There are so many nuances to account for in designing for print and even working with different printers. Loving whatever you put out though. Great podcast guests!
Thanks Khanhly, to really help out with this be sure to get the free export your files checklist here: www.printdesignacademy.com/Print-Design-File-Export-Checklist
Great video!! May I ask before print, no need to prepare Trapping or Holdback for all texts or images? Do u have any Trapping or Holdback tutorial? Thank you.
Trapping and Holdback typically are going to be up to your printer to decide the amounts they need. It's best to let them choose those amounts and edit since they'll know their machines the best and have their own systems in place! :) just bleed and crop/dieline from you.
When you say 'preset lines' are you talking about the rounded corner dieline? If you are producing a straight label without rounded corners then you set up your file at the start with 0.125 inch of bleed on every side. Design your artwork to the bleed (outside the artboard) Then when you go to export the PDF in the Marks + Bleed settings, 1. Click Trim (Crop) Marks 2. check the box "Use Document Bleed Settings"
my client told me that the manifacture is complaining about the text inside the label , the they mentioned " cranking & cdr file " and i'm not sure what does it mean ! i used google to find that cdr is a coreldraw , so my question should i care about this task converting file to coreldraw or ignore his request besacuse it's not my problem ?
That's an extremely helpful video! The only thing I am not sure about is the artboard size. In your case it is bigger that the actual artwork+bleed area, wouldn't it be wiser to make the artboard the same size as the bleed? Or it just doesn't affect anything?
Having the artboard size larger doesn't affect it too much since the finished size is diecut anyway and your printer/manufacturer is going to lay out the design as they need. This was a file supplied to us from a printer actually and the was how they had it. Just as long as the artboard isn't crazyyyyy oversized you'll be fine.
Hey again! So after a bit of looking into it, it would be beneficial to crop your artboard exactly to the bleed size. Now, this template was supplied by a manufacturer with all the information in the background. Typically it's best to have these types of tips and trick info in the "slug" which is added space around your actual whiteboard. This manufacturer just added it all on a whiteboard so it's sorta all included. If I got a template like this, moving forward, I'd ask the supplier, "do you want me to crop to bleed size or should I return the file as is?" Each printer has a bit of a different preference, and one thing we stress is asking the questions! Create the relationship and get the answers directly from them. :)
If it's only black and white then all you'll need is the black swatch in there. If your graphic isn't vector you can watch this video below to learn about working with images for print. Vector illustrations are the best way to go, but hope this vid helps for your export process! ruclips.net/video/K18PHG0ho10/видео.html
Super helpful video, thank you! Can you do a video on how to create those bleeds and dielines from scratch and how you measured the positioning of them/distance from the edge, etc.? Would also love a video on how to create and set up/export a large illustrator file for something like a billboard! (With a document that has both images and vector graphics in it, and another document with only vector graphics in it) - Thank you SO much!! If you would also be able to give a written answer to these questions, that would help a lot as well! 1.) How do you determine the positioning for the dieline & bleeds you made, from edge of the artboard? 2.) If you are creating a large billboard document in Illustrator, with both photos and vector graphics, do you resize the photos first in Photoshop (make them larger for example), and then import them back into the Illustrator file after, and then export everything from the Illustrator file? Or is it better to export the design from Illustrator, and place it into Photoshop to resize everything larger for the billboard, and export the final billboard document from Photoshop? Thank you for your help!!
I'm glad you found the video helpful! I'll add it to the list of videos to create on working with a dieline. 1. For dielines: First off I highly recommend reaching out to your printer for the specific dieline file since each printer may have their own requirements, and having the actual dieline from them ensures accuracy and saves you time from creating it yourself. Typically though bleeds extend beyond the trim edge by about 1/8 of an inch. You dont' have to worry too much about how far it is from the dartboard as they're going to figure out all the manufacturing side, but giving a small bit of room around the artboard is fine. 2. Large format printing: When creating a large billboard Illustrator is the best if you're using both photos and vector graphics. Vectors will lose their amazing scalable nature when you put them into photoshop so 100% it's better to export from Illustrator. It'll also keep the file size down compared to creating an image in PS. You'll want to resize the photos first in Photoshop to the desired dimensions for the billboard. Once resized, you can import them back into Illustrator and incorporate them into your design. With something like a billboard it's not going to be seen from up close to save on file size you can keep the images at a lower resolution. Something around 100-150 dpi rather than the full 300dpi that's required for other print. Talk to your billboard printer though since they will have recommendations. So sorry for the late reply as well! Hope this helps!!
Hey Jeremy, thanks for your comment. I don’t know of 1 specific site, but a little bit of googling you can probably find them. The great thing about labels is that you can create some pretty cool custom die cuts bro create something that really stands out!
Hello people! I’m new to illustrator and I just designed my own label. Everything seems fine but I when I try to save it as a pdf or adobe illustrator file, it shows as a blank image for some reason. Google said check layers are okay for printing on the layer tab but only my layer 1 gives me that option? Please help. Thanks 😅
Oh gosh, congrats on the label job! Exciting! I hope you were able to figure it out and sorry for the late reply. Maybe the work wasn't on the artboard? Hard to know without seeing it myself!
because that's how lazy designers keep their production ready PDF "editable" in illustrator. It's totally unnecessary and can contribute detrimentally to file size. You don't need the option checked if you plan on using the illustrator file as the 'mechanical' source file (as one should) and the PDF as the "not to be messed with" production file (again, as one should.)
Keeping it on allows your printer flexibility with the file rather than having to send an AI file. and a PDF. It does add to the file size, but it means the printer can print straight from the file and also means that they can tweak stuff as needed in Illustrator. Without it, when your file is opened in Illustrator everything will have a bunch of gross clipping masks on it. It can help with production time too if there are any file issues they fix it right there instead of having to go back to you to get a new version or workable file. Hope that helps clear it up!
Thanks for the helpful video! This is great! I’d love to see a video about how to set up a soap bar label for print. Keep making more videos like this!
Goodmorning, I have a problem with illustrator which I’ve never had before. I made a document in illustrator sRGB, when I export it, colors embedded, to pdf or anything else, and I open this in a viewer, the colors become flat. When I sent the illustrator document to someone else and they open it in illustrator, the colors are flat too. I really don’t know what the problem is. My screen is calibrated in a good way, I think it’s something in the export or illustrator. I’ve tried several things. It has nothing to do with CYMK either. Is there anyone who can help me with this problem? Thank you! Kind regards, Trees
Since the labels have rounded corners, using the built in bleed would show the bleed lines as straight where using a custom bleed better represents it and doesn't cause confusion.
@@PrintDesignAcademy yea but i do not even think that would matter because its a "bleed." the die line is still going to exist the way it is. it will be cut rounded. The bleed is simply to make sure any sort of inaccuracy is covered by the designs colors.
hey :) I have a question, If I save my design where I just put my illustration and no background at the back ( I mean not even a white rectangle, just white artboard) as a PDF, will it it have a transparent background automatically or I need to set transparency for print before saving PDF? Thanks!
Hey there! depends on what the PDF is going to be used for I guess. PDF it's always going to have a white background visually, but if the intent is to drag the PDF back into illustrator itself as a linked file it'll keep the transparency. If you're worried about the "white" showing up in print, just remember that white is your paper and there is no white ink in classic CMYK unless you request white ink specifically. If you're looking to create an image that has the same classic transparent feel as a PNG, but is print friendly, then a TIFF though is the best. It allows for CMYK color modes (unlike pngs) and has no compression so it's the fullest quality. Hope this helps and feel free to reach out if you have further Q's :)
Illustrator starts off with a buuuunch of random colors as your swatches since they're trying to be helpful. Also sometimes when you paste artwork in from another file, it can also add the swatches from that file which aren't necessary for what you're doing. Then lastly, sometimes you're just messing around and playing with other color options and forget that the swatch got created and is a color you're not using in the design. Always best practice to have only the colors used in the file in your swatch panel. Hope that helps!!
As a former prepress artist and current color management specialist for a large-format / wide-format print provider, there are quite a few things here I'd do differently. bleed and dieline in the "pantone" file should be spot colors. A named global process swatch might print, as they would not be name-recognized by the RIP for extraction and might be missed by a lazy prepress person. That's also a lot of pantone colors. Absolutely necessary if you know the job is going to print with actual pantone inks, but is mostly unnecessary for any job that won't be printing with actual pantone inks. (digitally, etc). Can be helpful on the prepress side to visually verify that same brand colors are in use in all files for a given client. As for the bleed and dieline in the cmyk file - better off asking the printer what the dieline spot color name should be, to make their jobs easier. They should also be set to overprint, unless you want to risk a white line in the print in the event of a slight mis-registration on the cutter. Also, a spot color is not required to be Lab. You could have left them as CMYK. Not sure where you were going with talk about PANTONE colors for the dielines. Very "huh?" moment there. Never use the PDF printers marks either, unless the printer you're using asks for them. I can almost guarantee they have to spend time removing your marks in order for your job to gang/impose properly for best usage of stock. You also don't need to package the thing. The image is already embedded in the PDF, you don't need to send your printer another copy of it. The artboard should probably be made same size as bleed as well, unless you want to run the risk of the printer imposing your image with the whitespace included. Garbage in = garbage out, especially with print on demand services. In my shop we don't need or want a bleed line, just document size set to trim size+bleed size w/ proper spot color of some kind for the dieline / cut contour.
Hey there! Appreciate all this feedback. There's a few things we'd change in this video too looking back at it. Totally see the value in all of these suggestions! This template was supplied by the supplier so I wanted to respect the way they set it up since none of it was slug and all just straight on the artboard, but cropping to bleed makes sense. Moving forward I would maybe have asked the printer if they want me to keep the notes or crop to size. And Pantone for dielines and bleeds just an extra little way to make them stand out. Don't need to be pantone for spot since you can choose process too, but I think it adds something that feels EXTRA different. Especially for new designers doing a checklist of "are these things set to spot" Anyway, I appreciate you taking the time to share thoughts!!
Thanks for watching this video! How many label designs have you sent in to print?
As a prepress specialist I would recommend that the dieline and bleed spot colors “overprint” on your Illustrator file. To overprint a color ( so it’s not “knockout of the image”) go to attributes and highlight the bleed & dielines and click overprint.
Totally! Great point. Thanks so much for the feedback.
I would recommend that black text “overprint” on your Illustrator file. (Short-key: First select text or another black object fill or stroke and press ctrl+F11 and select fill or stroke as need), what about basic registration marks for machine process?
Wouw!… tht was just in ONE word “amazing” thank you i rly like it,.. just one thing if u may allow me,. “Bleed and dieline should be overprint strokes” so in pdf output preview dont scratch over print area! That was an extra bounce tip, thank you! I rly appreciated!.
Absolutely they should be and we recognize this mistake. whoooops. Wish I could go back and edit the video to include this!
Do you have a video with best practices for converting RGB to CMYK? With the higher volume of files from Canva, I think this would be great content.
I only do this every few years, and I want to ensure I get it right! Thanks for the refresher!!!!! The printer is happy & I'm happy!
So glad to hear it!!!
I have not even learnt all these in my graphic design studies, awesome mam, thanks
So glad you got value out of this. More videos like this coming soon!
You might also find our Free Print Ready Files Checklist to be a really useful tool. Grab that here www.printdesignacademy.com/PrintReadyFiles
Love her vibe and energy!
Godddddddddd! finally, the most needed one thankyou so much plz keep putting up the similar content. & one suggestion for the video editor, if you don't mind the video thumbnail should be enlarged on the screen when ever you are explaining & not active in the apps interface.
Thanks so much for checking it out. That’s the plan.
Niiiiicccceee TY I needed a refresh - appreciate your expertise 🪷
So glad you got value out of it!!
You might also find our Free Print Ready Files Checklist to be a really useful tool. Grab that here www.printdesignacademy.com/PrintReadyFiles
A quick way to change the composition of the 3115 color is simply to fetch the original color from the library as you did but, then, in the Swatches palette, select the new color, hold the Alt key and drop it over the original 3115 "CMYK" swatch.
Hey Claudio, thanks for the comment! Great highlight. Did not know of that one but we will be using it in the future. Just add in the rename of the color to keep it clean and boom! Appreciate the feedback.
@@PrintDesignAcademy you know whats even easier? edit the existing swatch > change dropdown from "process color" to "spot color" like you did for the dieline and bleed line.
no need to worry about the spot color definition (cmyk vs lab vs whatever), and the numbers). The printer's RIP should handle the separation just fine by name.
As long as you're using a reputable print service provider that has a properly configured RIP, anyway... send stuff off to cheap online gang printers or no-name chinese print shops and you gets what you gets.
Thank you! that was great! Your eyes are magic ( if I may say, with all due respect).
Thanks for watching! *Blink* *Blink*
Keep up the great work
Thanks so much! Appreciate you checking it out.
SO HELPFUL! thank you so much! please do more courses and tutorials on different print matter, maybe some paper things like posters, zines, etc. There are so many nuances to account for in designing for print and even working with different printers. Loving whatever you put out though. Great podcast guests!
Great suggestion! Thanks for the Podcast shout out too. More videos coming shortly.
Super easy to understand. Thank you very much for this information about print design. I'm very glad sharing stuff like this.
Happy that you found value in it! More videos coming soon.
you just did amazing
I was looking for this video
Thanks
Yes!!! Thanks so much for your comment. Glad you got so much value out of it.
Thanks for the tutorial. Can I know how you export print-ready pdf files separately in multiple artboards?
So we actually have a video out that teaches this now! ruclips.net/video/IFkAOEViTbQ/видео.html
@@PrintDesignAcademy that message is 1 year ago😊😊👍🏼
@ ya! Totally, just going through and making sure we didn’t miss any. Plus just wanted to share the video if someone had the same question!
@@PrintDesignAcademy nice. 😊👍🏼Thank you. 😊
Thank you so much for this video, it is been so helpful 😍
So glad you got value out of it!!
Thank you, thank you so much for the explanation. It's so helpful since I am learning graphic design on my own.
Thanks Khanhly, to really help out with this be sure to get the free export your files checklist here: www.printdesignacademy.com/Print-Design-File-Export-Checklist
really great video, thank you so much! Please keep it on!
Thanks Yao! Really appreciate your kind words.
Great video!! May I ask before print, no need to prepare Trapping or Holdback for all texts or images? Do u have any Trapping or Holdback tutorial? Thank you.
Trapping and Holdback typically are going to be up to your printer to decide the amounts they need. It's best to let them choose those amounts and edit since they'll know their machines the best and have their own systems in place! :) just bleed and crop/dieline from you.
@ oh i see. Thank you for your replied 🙏
What do we do on the marks and bleeds if we don’t have our own preset lines? What setting is best for this situation?
When you say 'preset lines' are you talking about the rounded corner dieline? If you are producing a straight label without rounded corners then you set up your file at the start with 0.125 inch of bleed on every side. Design your artwork to the bleed (outside the artboard) Then when you go to export the PDF in the Marks + Bleed settings, 1. Click Trim (Crop) Marks 2. check the box "Use Document Bleed Settings"
my client told me that the manifacture is complaining about the text inside the label , the they mentioned " cranking & cdr file " and i'm not sure what does it mean ! i used google to find that cdr is a coreldraw , so my question should i care about this task converting file to coreldraw or ignore his request besacuse it's not my problem ?
That's an extremely helpful video! The only thing I am not sure about is the artboard size. In your case it is bigger that the actual artwork+bleed area, wouldn't it be wiser to make the artboard the same size as the bleed? Or it just doesn't affect anything?
Having the artboard size larger doesn't affect it too much since the finished size is diecut anyway and your printer/manufacturer is going to lay out the design as they need. This was a file supplied to us from a printer actually and the was how they had it. Just as long as the artboard isn't crazyyyyy oversized you'll be fine.
Hey again! So after a bit of looking into it, it would be beneficial to crop your artboard exactly to the bleed size. Now, this template was supplied by a manufacturer with all the information in the background. Typically it's best to have these types of tips and trick info in the "slug" which is added space around your actual whiteboard. This manufacturer just added it all on a whiteboard so it's sorta all included. If I got a template like this, moving forward, I'd ask the supplier, "do you want me to crop to bleed size or should I return the file as is?" Each printer has a bit of a different preference, and one thing we stress is asking the questions! Create the relationship and get the answers directly from them. :)
@@PrintDesignAcademy Thanks for the tip! 😄
Any chance that you could do one for just a black-and-white graphic? I have pen and ink drawings that I need to get print ready
If it's only black and white then all you'll need is the black swatch in there. If your graphic isn't vector you can watch this video below to learn about working with images for print. Vector illustrations are the best way to go, but hope this vid helps for your export process!
ruclips.net/video/K18PHG0ho10/видео.html
@@PrintDesignAcademy yes i've done the vectorizing, appreciate all your help.
Super helpful video, thank you! Can you do a video on how to create those bleeds and dielines from scratch and how you measured the positioning of them/distance from the edge, etc.? Would also love a video on how to create and set up/export a large illustrator file for something like a billboard! (With a document that has both images and vector graphics in it, and another document with only vector graphics in it) - Thank you SO much!!
If you would also be able to give a written answer to these questions, that would help a lot as well!
1.) How do you determine the positioning for the dieline & bleeds you made, from edge of the artboard?
2.) If you are creating a large billboard document in Illustrator, with both photos and vector graphics, do you resize the photos first in Photoshop (make them larger for example), and then import them back into the Illustrator file after, and then export everything from the Illustrator file?
Or is it better to export the design from Illustrator, and place it into Photoshop to resize everything larger for the billboard, and export the final billboard document from Photoshop?
Thank you for your help!!
I'm glad you found the video helpful! I'll add it to the list of videos to create on working with a dieline.
1. For dielines: First off I highly recommend reaching out to your printer for the specific dieline file since each printer may have their own requirements, and having the actual dieline from them ensures accuracy and saves you time from creating it yourself. Typically though bleeds extend beyond the trim edge by about 1/8 of an inch. You dont' have to worry too much about how far it is from the dartboard as they're going to figure out all the manufacturing side, but giving a small bit of room around the artboard is fine.
2. Large format printing: When creating a large billboard Illustrator is the best if you're using both photos and vector graphics. Vectors will lose their amazing scalable nature when you put them into photoshop so 100% it's better to export from Illustrator. It'll also keep the file size down compared to creating an image in PS. You'll want to resize the photos first in Photoshop to the desired dimensions for the billboard. Once resized, you can import them back into Illustrator and incorporate them into your design. With something like a billboard it's not going to be seen from up close to save on file size you can keep the images at a lower resolution. Something around 100-150 dpi rather than the full 300dpi that's required for other print. Talk to your billboard printer though since they will have recommendations.
So sorry for the late reply as well! Hope this helps!!
@@PrintDesignAcademy No worries, thank you so much for the reply! I really appreciate it!!
Great video! Thank you
Awesome to hear! Thanks for watching.
Brilliant tutorial, thank you very much for handy tips :)
So glad you found value in this! More videos like this coming soon.
You might also find our Free Print Ready Files Checklist to be a really useful tool. Grab that here www.printdesignacademy.com/PrintReadyFiles
Such an incredibly helpful video, thank you for this.
So glad that you found value out of it. More like this on the way.
Thanks for this! Is there a site where one can find the standard dimensions for different kinds of labels / different can sizes?
Hey Jeremy, thanks for your comment. I don’t know of 1 specific site, but a little bit of googling you can probably find them. The great thing about labels is that you can create some pretty cool custom die cuts bro create something that really stands out!
So helpful Thank you
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching
Hello people! I’m new to illustrator and I just designed my own label. Everything seems fine but I when I try to save it as a pdf or adobe illustrator file, it shows as a blank image for some reason. Google said check layers are okay for printing on the layer tab but only my layer 1 gives me that option?
Please help. Thanks 😅
Oh gosh, congrats on the label job! Exciting! I hope you were able to figure it out and sorry for the late reply. Maybe the work wasn't on the artboard? Hard to know without seeing it myself!
13:16 Why keep ON Preserve illustrator editing capabilities?
because that's how lazy designers keep their production ready PDF "editable" in illustrator.
It's totally unnecessary and can contribute detrimentally to file size. You don't need the option checked if you plan on using the illustrator file as the 'mechanical' source file (as one should) and the PDF as the "not to be messed with" production file (again, as one should.)
Keeping it on allows your printer flexibility with the file rather than having to send an AI file. and a PDF. It does add to the file size, but it means the printer can print straight from the file and also means that they can tweak stuff as needed in Illustrator. Without it, when your file is opened in Illustrator everything will have a bunch of gross clipping masks on it. It can help with production time too if there are any file issues they fix it right there instead of having to go back to you to get a new version or workable file. Hope that helps clear it up!
Well done Sir, an excellent example well executed. Thank you.
Thanks!
thank you so much for this great tutorial.
So glad we could help! 🤙
Thanks for the helpful video! This is great! I’d love to see a video about how to set up a soap bar label for print. Keep making more videos like this!
Thanks for watch Kelly! Great recommendation! More videos like this are coming.
Goodmorning,
I have a problem with illustrator which I’ve never had before. I made a document in illustrator sRGB, when I export it, colors embedded, to pdf or anything else, and I open this in a viewer, the colors become flat. When I sent the illustrator document to someone else and they open it in illustrator, the colors are flat too. I really don’t know what the problem is. My screen is calibrated in a good way, I think it’s something in the export or illustrator. I’ve tried several things. It has nothing to do with CYMK either.
Is there anyone who can help me with this problem?
Thank you!
Kind regards, Trees
why would you not use the documents built in bleed?
Since the labels have rounded corners, using the built in bleed would show the bleed lines as straight where using a custom bleed better represents it and doesn't cause confusion.
@@PrintDesignAcademy yea but i do not even think that would matter because its a "bleed." the die line is still going to exist the way it is. it will be cut rounded. The bleed is simply to make sure any sort of inaccuracy is covered by the designs colors.
hey :) I have a question, If I save my design where I just put my illustration and no background at the back ( I mean not even a white rectangle, just white artboard) as a PDF, will it it have a transparent background automatically or I need to set transparency for print before saving PDF? Thanks!
Hey there! depends on what the PDF is going to be used for I guess. PDF it's always going to have a white background visually, but if the intent is to drag the PDF back into illustrator itself as a linked file it'll keep the transparency. If you're worried about the "white" showing up in print, just remember that white is your paper and there is no white ink in classic CMYK unless you request white ink specifically. If you're looking to create an image that has the same classic transparent feel as a PNG, but is print friendly, then a TIFF though is the best. It allows for CMYK color modes (unlike pngs) and has no compression so it's the fullest quality.
Hope this helps and feel free to reach out if you have further Q's :)
how to create diline?
5:13 Why are those random colours even there though?
Illustrator starts off with a buuuunch of random colors as your swatches since they're trying to be helpful. Also sometimes when you paste artwork in from another file, it can also add the swatches from that file which aren't necessary for what you're doing. Then lastly, sometimes you're just messing around and playing with other color options and forget that the swatch got created and is a color you're not using in the design. Always best practice to have only the colors used in the file in your swatch panel.
Hope that helps!!
Pls how do I go about setting up a 'transparent label' in illustrator
Hey Victor, thanks for your comment! Nice idea. We'll put that one on the video list. Cheers!
TQ ❤️ from India
Thank you soooo much !!!
Yayyyyy you're welcome!
thank you so so much
Glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much ❤
great tutorial
how to print pvc card ??? help me plz
Super helpful! Thank you :)
You’re welcome! So glad you got value out of it!
Thanks!!!
You are welcome! Hope you learned a heap of stuff!
@@PrintDesignAcademy I did💯
As a former prepress artist and current color management specialist for a large-format / wide-format print provider, there are quite a few things here I'd do differently.
bleed and dieline in the "pantone" file should be spot colors. A named global process swatch might print, as they would not be name-recognized by the RIP for extraction and might be missed by a lazy prepress person.
That's also a lot of pantone colors. Absolutely necessary if you know the job is going to print with actual pantone inks, but is mostly unnecessary for any job that won't be printing with actual pantone inks. (digitally, etc). Can be helpful on the prepress side to visually verify that same brand colors are in use in all files for a given client.
As for the bleed and dieline in the cmyk file - better off asking the printer what the dieline spot color name should be, to make their jobs easier. They should also be set to overprint, unless you want to risk a white line in the print in the event of a slight mis-registration on the cutter.
Also, a spot color is not required to be Lab. You could have left them as CMYK. Not sure where you were going with talk about PANTONE colors for the dielines. Very "huh?" moment there.
Never use the PDF printers marks either, unless the printer you're using asks for them. I can almost guarantee they have to spend time removing your marks in order for your job to gang/impose properly for best usage of stock.
You also don't need to package the thing. The image is already embedded in the PDF, you don't need to send your printer another copy of it.
The artboard should probably be made same size as bleed as well, unless you want to run the risk of the printer imposing your image with the whitespace included. Garbage in = garbage out, especially with print on demand services. In my shop we don't need or want a bleed line, just document size set to trim size+bleed size w/ proper spot color of some kind for the dieline / cut contour.
Hey there! Appreciate all this feedback. There's a few things we'd change in this video too looking back at it. Totally see the value in all of these suggestions! This template was supplied by the supplier so I wanted to respect the way they set it up since none of it was slug and all just straight on the artboard, but cropping to bleed makes sense. Moving forward I would maybe have asked the printer if they want me to keep the notes or crop to size.
And Pantone for dielines and bleeds just an extra little way to make them stand out. Don't need to be pantone for spot since you can choose process too, but I think it adds something that feels EXTRA different. Especially for new designers doing a checklist of "are these things set to spot"
Anyway, I appreciate you taking the time to share thoughts!!
This is a runaround tutorial.
just what i was after
Perfect! Glad you found value in it.
Video is so nice. But your more beautiful then video
This thumbnail does not make me want to click on it...wait...
Lol, welcome to the video…
Your Chanel is great !
Thanks so much! Really appreciate your kind words.
Thanks you!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.