Ty is helping people understand how to become better people. If you respect the practice you become a better person. Education is critical to open the mind. Opening the mind is like the first step in making people wise. To many people handle this chemical in ignorance. We are destroying the planet with ignorance
I love my Fieldpiece probes! I use a core depressor on the liquid line. I've been doing HVAC since 2003 and never thought about how I screw on fittings. I've gotten frostbite a few times. Since seeing you mention two fingers I've paid attention and noticed that I wasn placing my hand exactly where liquid refrigerant would hit it.
If your lead is telling you that your tools are junk, in a negative manner, not to worry as you will find yourself surpassing your lead, because you educate yourself by watching Ty.
Lots of great information but I have suggestion. You still have air between the shut off valve on the charge line to the "T" and the "T" fitting to the suction line. Not much, but it's there. I would suggest to purge the line where the "T" connects to the suction line getting rid of any air no matter how small in those fittings.
3rd option is superier, IMO - that's what I do. I only need the hose and tee for adding refrigerant - so it stays with the scale. Use the pressure from the suction side of the system to purge my charging hose back to the tank - then open the tank. I keep my charging hose and 'Tee' in the outside pocket of the bag that the Fieldpiece Wireless scale comes with...and roll it up in a way where BOTH ends of the house attach back to the Tee to keep dirt and moisture out of the hose - i'll also throw a little cap on the exposed female end of the Charging Tee to keep dirt out of THAT. Once you get your system set up, it's way quicker and easier to use wireless probes VS an analog manifold, dual temp thermometer, wired thermocouples, etc. Although, I do miss seeing the needles moving - which can sometimes be a useful troubleshooting tool.
Great video, I got those probes to work on cars. I'm always interested in the lastest and greatest ways of diagnostics. Our industry has a poor understanding of temp to pressure relationship. HVAC people understand so well. I hope to bring it into our field thru example
I like my fieldpiece probes, definatly the first go to but i wish the gauge had an lcd display of the pressure, ive had occasional issues with the app needing to be logged in and if i want the phone for other things. I fit the manifold when i do charging though because i havnt found a good tee fitting
10:40 - Speaking of taking care of equipment, it looks like someone left that refrigerant cylinder laying in the sunlit bed of the their truck for too long!
Thanks great video. What about the portion that is beyond the yellow hose value that small bit of brass pipe before the connector should that not be purged as well before letting anything into the condenser?? There is air in that portion to or am I incorrect on this? This is where I really hate trying to figure out where to purge before starting up the compressor. Refrigerant is flowing out of the condenser when off correct and refrigerant is flowing out of the 25 pound jug. How and which side do you purge at the junctions to make sure no air is there?
After you purge the air from the hose, the space between the ball valve and the tee has air in it. That's why after I purge the hose with vapor I keep the ball valve slightly cracked as I connect it to the tee to reduce the air introduced into the system.
Great question, I covered that a bit in HVAC 116. They are nice to have but people get over reliant on them and don't understand how they work. They are only a restrictor similar to a fixed office. There are several conditions that affect how much refrigerant flows past them just like a fixed office. When someone opens them up a continues stream of refrigerant flows. It is possible for that stream of liquid to not turn to a vapor before reaching the compressor. There are many factors and conditions that would affect that. In another scenario it could be so small it takes for ever to charge the system. It's also easier to over charge a system. People leave them open get distracted and now they are having to pull refregerants put of the system. Personally I feel if someone understand they process it's unnecessary. If your working with a someone who does not, it's one extra step to help protect the compressor..
I have low loss fittings for my probes with a charging Tee for adding refrigerant. Always able to keep myself from having refrigerant burn and they work great for critical charged systems. I only use my manifold only bigger systems with larger charges. I have flooded evap chillers with 3400 lbs of R134a so a few ounces isn't gonna make a difference at all
No need to use low loss fittings with fp probes. There's nothing to lose😂 they don't hold any refrigerant. If your getting alot of spray back you need to adjust your depressors but low loss fittings are useless. I get zero spray back w mine. And I mean absolutely zero.
@@yazbakri no you don't. Never use low loss fittings. No need for them in any situation,and they end up all failing at some point. Im not trying to be rude,just talking from experience from myself as well as a good team of some of the most experienced and best techs ive ever worked with,we all feel the same. It's always best to use yellow jacket hoses w the ball valves built in. They will never fail you. Those are the only brand I can recommend, others fail as well. Low loss fittings were a thing about 20 years ago and I don't know why they are still making them, they were replaced with yj bv hoses and honestly I havnt seen any good tech use them in over 10 years at least if not more. They kind of just went out of style like the gauge manifold. Again, not trying to knock you, just trying to be helpful. For charging, just put an appion charging tee (the best one out there as of yet and when disconnecting theres no liquid sprayback)on your service port and use your ball valve on your hose to meter in. In the end, nothing wrong if you want to continue to use the low loss, but def less headaches without, that's all. I guess there's more than one way to do most things in life. Whatever you're more comfortable with
Great video, I'm a new tech and any advice will help. I invested in those probes and the field piece 4 port manifold, I didn't know that you can recharge with only the probes. I will definitely get that tee access for sure. What set fo hoses do you recommend
Yellow jacket and uniweld both have nice set of hoses. For vacuum I like the true blue hoses but Navac, Appion, yellowjacket, uniweld all make vacuum hoses now.
does your phone need good signal or data to use these probes? I get calls outside of the big city to smaller towns with shitty phone service out there.
question, when using the auto low loss hose when adding refrigerant, how is it allowing liquid refrigerant to flow out of the hose and into the valve if it isnt depressing a core? i thought auto low loss had to be depressing a core in order to allow pressure out?
Why am I confused at how there appears to be pressure in the system when he purges the hose but while the hose is connected and he’s simulating charging the system by cracking the valve the cut in half tank isn’t spewing refrigerant ?? What am I missing
Less refregerants loss, Safer, Longer purge time and still be diminimus, Vapor purges better, liquid is more likely to absorb moisture and mix with the air instead of pushing the air.
@@love2hvac just curious. At Scotsman Industries we put shut offs on both ends of the hose and purge with nitrogen. Then attach to the refrigerant cylinder and purge with liquid to minimize fractionation. A zeotropic blend will have a different vapor composition sitting above the bulk of the liquid. If you remove this vapor, you will take the wrong composition refrigerant out of the cylinder, and leave behind the wrong composition refrigerant for future use. I suppose if you purge vapor once or twice from a cylinder, it is irrelevant. Although Is you are purging vapor a dozen or so time, I’m curious how this will affect the blend? Ice machines are most often filled less than a pound of refrigerant.
Ice machines and other critically charged systems have much more precise rules than the ac demonstrated here. Also with ice machines I never top them off. If I have to attach my gauges I already know going to be pulling the charge after I find the issue. At that point I pull a vacuum on the system at the same time pull a vacuum on the hose to the tank. That way the hose is also 100% dehydrated. Then when I weigh in the charge it's liquid leaving the tank and directly entering the liquid line and precisely weighed in. I will be doing a video showing the method when I get to evacuation. It will be a while before I get to the detailed registration focused portion of the course. As always I manufactures instructions supersede anybody else.
@@BartSimpson-nr1dy how do you guys accurately weigh in such small amounts of refrigerant? I really need to get shorter hoses for charging small refrigeration stuff, I am always questioning if the unit is accurately charged.
I got mine at home Depot, the brass section in plumbing. 1/4 and 3/8 caps and plugs. Appion makes a double ended one for hoses at tire tech tools Appion HH1414 holds 1/4-1/4 and Appion HH1438 holds 1/4-3/8
Can you link to an example of actual butyl lined gloves available on the market? I cannot find them by that name and don't even know what they look like. You see all kinds of latex and nitrile but I don't know if that's the same thing or even if they will work. Thanks 😊.
subbed. I love your training methods. I believe you're the only person to have mentioned not flooding the compressor by only using short bursts, when the tap is close to the inlet. I do have a quick question though. using the short burst method, and using superheat to measure, (R410a on a piston)..... how long should you wait for the numbers before giving it another burst. surely it'll take forever if you can only give it a short burst at a time, then wait for the saturated temp to stabilize. New to this and i don't want to damage the compressor by not being patient enough.
Would it be possible, faster to attach something like a KwikCharge metering device to the tank and then attach the hose to that to avoid having to manually meter in the liquid refrigerant? I’ve just recently started out in HVAC school so I’m still learning but was curious if that might work or not.
Good question I covered that briefly in 116. People really seam to love those but I don't think many really understand how they work. It is simply a fixed hole, a restrictor, a metering device. The idea is it slows the flow of liquid refrigerant down enough so it has time to turn into a vapor. Slowing the flow being key. So if I buy a device that slows the flow, or an open and close the valve that slows the flow either way the flow is slowed and controlled. What I do not like about that product are a few things. 1 it gives the false impression it's going to keep liquid out of the compressor. Under some conditions it will let to much refrigerant flow threw and a stream of liquid will enter the compressor. Under other conditions it will not let enough enter and takes to long. 2 for a new tech it can offer some protection but it oversimplifies it and in turn causes more problems. Techs will leave the valve open thinking it's protecting them. Liquid to compressors, overcharged systems can be an issue. 3 it hold too much liquid and oil in the unit. The idea is it's large enough to allow for a check valve so when flowing the opposite direction it fully opens. That extra space holds extra refregerants, oil, moisture and more possibilities for contamination. When people want to use one I recommend the yellow jacket version Wich is much smaller and takes up less space. I have had a lot of questions about it. They must have a good marketing campaign. When I get some more money together I will get some and show the operation the pros and the cons.
"Charging rate is up to eight times faster than vapor charging" From the packaging. They are comparing liquid charging to vapor charging. Charging by throttling liquid has always been faster than vapor. Comparing charging by throttling vs charging by this device, they do not have any information. I'll order a few types and do some tests so we can all see.
Do these wireless probes have sensors to measure temperature? Are these battery or rechargeable through USC-C ports? Lastly, would these totally replace the manifold tool? Great video. 🙂
Yes I use the complete set with the measure quick app. 2 pressure probes. 3 temperature clamps (3rd one for the discharge line) 4 psycrometers (RA, SA, outdoor ambient) 2 pressure probes for return and supply pressure. I have not used a manifold in a while. I use a T and a single hose with a manual ball valve for charging. The probes I use do use replaceable batteries Wich is easier to swap a battery rather than wait for one to charge.
Thanks again for all of the great content. Is it wrong that my instructor taught me to open the tank a 1/4 turn just in case I have to quickly close the tank in an emergency? Does this effect my charge?
It's not wrong. Some want to leave the tank 1/4 turn to slow the flow of refregerants leaving the tank also. It originated from brazing so you could close the tank quickly is a fire broke out. Always do what your instructor says. Me personally I want tank completely open so control the flow with my ball valve. I'm trying to think of an emergency, busted hose is the only scenario I can see. In that case I would flip the tank upright so only vapor would be coming out and quickly close the tank. Again don't argue with your instructor. He or she is responsible for the safety of the class.
Great Video - Thanks, As old tech that got out business 15yr ago It's amazing of new tools available- Seeing nit many youngster willing to learn trade I might just come out retirement for another go-
In the USA this is a perfectly legal action. #1 The EPA 608 allows for de-minimum release and purging. This is perfectly legal. #2 You absolutely can connect a vacuum pump with a T and valves. But it's a lot of time with little benefits. running an extension cord, bringing out the pump is a time and cost factor. #3 Protection, this de-minimum is allowed by the EPA, but you can look up the EPA 608 enforcement actions and find a technician has never been fined for venting. They mainly look for large companies, supermarkets, importers and occasionally people stealing units. Unfortunately there are a lot of people openly venting and even bragging about venting refrigerant with no repercussions. There are even videos of people recording themselves doing it. Several people I know have reported people venting even with video evidence and the person admitting it and nothing happens to them. The EPA dose not even follow up on it. While I believe we should drive to do better and be better there are practice limits on one hand and unlikely scare tactics on the other.
😂 yeah I've seen that too. We had a student talk out a compressor when he just opened it up. He was later expelled for sniffing refregerants during breaks. 🤣
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Ty is helping people understand how to become better people. If you respect the practice you become a better person. Education is critical to open the mind. Opening the mind is like the first step in making people wise. To many people handle this chemical in ignorance. We are destroying the planet with ignorance
I love my Fieldpiece probes! I use a core depressor on the liquid line. I've been doing HVAC since 2003 and never thought about how I screw on fittings. I've gotten frostbite a few times. Since seeing you mention two fingers I've paid attention and noticed that I wasn placing my hand exactly where liquid refrigerant would hit it.
If your lead is telling you that your tools are junk, in a negative manner, not to worry as you will find yourself surpassing your lead, because you educate yourself by watching Ty.
Had a guy tell me one of my hand tools were cheap. Explained to him that it works still.
Buy what you're comfortable with to get the job done, once you're ready to go places buy good tools
Lots of great information but I have suggestion. You still have air between the shut off valve on the charge line to the "T" and the "T" fitting to the suction line. Not much, but it's there. I would suggest to purge the line where the "T" connects to the suction line getting rid of any air no matter how small in those fittings.
3rd option is superier, IMO - that's what I do.
I only need the hose and tee for adding refrigerant - so it stays with the scale.
Use the pressure from the suction side of the system to purge my charging hose back to the tank - then open the tank.
I keep my charging hose and 'Tee' in the outside pocket of the bag that the Fieldpiece Wireless scale comes with...and roll it up in a way where BOTH ends of the house attach back to the Tee to keep dirt and moisture out of the hose - i'll also throw a little cap on the exposed female end of the Charging Tee to keep dirt out of THAT.
Once you get your system set up, it's way quicker and easier to use wireless probes VS an analog manifold, dual temp thermometer, wired thermocouples, etc.
Although, I do miss seeing the needles moving - which can sometimes be a useful troubleshooting tool.
Great video, I got those probes to work on cars. I'm always interested in the lastest and greatest ways of diagnostics. Our industry has a poor understanding of temp to pressure relationship. HVAC people understand so well. I hope to bring it into our field thru example
I like my fieldpiece probes, definatly the first go to but i wish the gauge had an lcd display of the pressure, ive had occasional issues with the app needing to be logged in and if i want the phone for other things. I fit the manifold when i do charging though because i havnt found a good tee fitting
The LCD display would be great!
Navack is working on one that does in the fall.
10:40 - Speaking of taking care of equipment, it looks like someone left that refrigerant cylinder laying in the sunlit bed of the their truck for too long!
Awesome video! Great idea with the charging hose
Another awesome video Ty.! Everyone of your videos amazes me how well you relate this information to us all. Thanks again.!
Good video. If you are learning the trade, this would be a video to watch with a tech to explain!!
Thanks great video. What about the portion that is beyond the yellow hose value that small bit of brass pipe before the connector should that not be purged as well before letting anything into the condenser?? There is air in that portion to or am I incorrect on this? This is where I really hate trying to figure out where to purge before starting up the compressor. Refrigerant is flowing out of the condenser when off correct and refrigerant is flowing out of the 25 pound jug. How and which side do you purge at the junctions to make sure no air is there?
Thank for showing me and i can see what options I can go with for the digital gauges
After you purge the air from the hose, the space between the ball valve and the tee has air in it. That's why after I purge the hose with vapor I keep the ball valve slightly cracked as I connect it to the tee to reduce the air introduced into the system.
Very good point! Absolutely right
Would you recommend using the liquid charge adapter on the bottle to help prevent liquid from getting to compressor?
Great question, I covered that a bit in HVAC 116. They are nice to have but people get over reliant on them and don't understand how they work.
They are only a restrictor similar to a fixed office. There are several conditions that affect how much refrigerant flows past them just like a fixed office.
When someone opens them up a continues stream of refrigerant flows. It is possible for that stream of liquid to not turn to a vapor before reaching the compressor. There are many factors and conditions that would affect that. In another scenario it could be so small it takes for ever to charge the system.
It's also easier to over charge a system. People leave them open get distracted and now they are having to pull refregerants put of the system.
Personally I feel if someone understand they process it's unnecessary. If your working with a someone who does not, it's one extra step to help protect the compressor..
@@love2hvac thank you I will be sure to watch that video really appreciate you taking the time to explain
Very helpful, thanks! Which service tee do you use? Not all of them seem to have Schrader valves on both male ports.
I have low loss fittings for my probes with a charging Tee for adding refrigerant. Always able to keep myself from having refrigerant burn and they work great for critical charged systems. I only use my manifold only bigger systems with larger charges. I have flooded evap chillers with 3400 lbs of R134a so a few ounces isn't gonna make a difference at all
No need to use low loss fittings with fp probes. There's nothing to lose😂 they don't hold any refrigerant. If your getting alot of spray back you need to adjust your depressors but low loss fittings are useless. I get zero spray back w mine. And I mean absolutely zero.
@@HVACRTECH-83 if you charge though you need to make sure the fitting T is lo loss
@@yazbakri no you don't. Never use low loss fittings. No need for them in any situation,and they end up all failing at some point. Im not trying to be rude,just talking from experience from myself as well as a good team of some of the most experienced and best techs ive ever worked with,we all feel the same. It's always best to use yellow jacket hoses w the ball valves built in. They will never fail you. Those are the only brand I can recommend, others fail as well. Low loss fittings were a thing about 20 years ago and I don't know why they are still making them, they were replaced with yj bv hoses and honestly I havnt seen any good tech use them in over 10 years at least if not more. They kind of just went out of style like the gauge manifold. Again, not trying to knock you, just trying to be helpful. For charging, just put an appion charging tee (the best one out there as of yet and when disconnecting theres no liquid sprayback)on your service port and use your ball valve on your hose to meter in. In the end, nothing wrong if you want to continue to use the low loss, but def less headaches without, that's all. I guess there's more than one way to do most things in life. Whatever you're more comfortable with
Great video, I'm a new tech and any advice will help. I invested in those probes and the field piece 4 port manifold, I didn't know that you can recharge with only the probes. I will definitely get that tee access for sure.
What set fo hoses do you recommend
Yellow jacket and uniweld both have nice set of hoses.
For vacuum I like the true blue hoses but Navac, Appion, yellowjacket, uniweld all make vacuum hoses now.
does your phone need good signal or data to use these probes? I get calls outside of the big city to smaller towns with shitty phone service out there.
No data or wifi needed. I have used mine in very remote places.
question, when using the auto low loss hose when adding refrigerant, how is it allowing liquid refrigerant to flow out of the hose and into the valve if it isnt depressing a core? i thought auto low loss had to be depressing a core in order to allow pressure out?
Why am I confused at how there appears to be pressure in the system when he purges the hose but while the hose is connected and he’s simulating charging the system by cracking the valve the cut in half tank isn’t spewing refrigerant ?? What am I missing
Why purge the line from the refrigerant tank hose to the shut off valve in vapor vs liquid?
Less refregerants loss,
Safer,
Longer purge time and still be diminimus,
Vapor purges better,
liquid is more likely to absorb moisture and mix with the air instead of pushing the air.
@@love2hvac just curious. At Scotsman Industries we put shut offs on both ends of the hose and purge with nitrogen. Then attach to the refrigerant cylinder and purge with liquid to minimize fractionation.
A zeotropic blend will have a different vapor composition sitting above the bulk of the liquid. If you remove this vapor, you will take the wrong composition refrigerant out of the cylinder, and leave behind the wrong composition refrigerant for future use.
I suppose if you purge vapor once or twice from a cylinder, it is irrelevant. Although Is you are purging vapor a dozen or so time, I’m curious how this will affect the blend?
Ice machines are most often filled less than a pound of refrigerant.
Ice machines and other critically charged systems have much more precise rules than the ac demonstrated here.
Also with ice machines I never top them off. If I have to attach my gauges I already know going to be pulling the charge after I find the issue. At that point I pull a vacuum on the system at the same time pull a vacuum on the hose to the tank. That way the hose is also 100% dehydrated. Then when I weigh in the charge it's liquid leaving the tank and directly entering the liquid line and precisely weighed in. I will be doing a video showing the method when I get to evacuation. It will be a while before I get to the detailed registration focused portion of the course.
As always I manufactures instructions supersede anybody else.
@@BartSimpson-nr1dy how do you guys accurately weigh in such small amounts of refrigerant? I really need to get shorter hoses for charging small refrigeration stuff, I am always questioning if the unit is accurately charged.
Great video!!! How would I search for the plug caps for my manifold/ probes and can one get it at the parts supply store?
I got mine at home Depot, the brass section in plumbing. 1/4 and 3/8 caps and plugs.
Appion makes a double ended one for hoses at tire tech tools
Appion HH1414 holds 1/4-1/4 and Appion HH1438 holds 1/4-3/8
@@love2hvac thank you for the information. You’re appreciated!👍👍
Swap the ends of your yellow hose around having valve by the tank then hose giving more room for vapor expansion.
good point!
Another easy thing to do is screw on Kwik Charge adapter to tank, and hose to Kwik Charge It will let liquid expand, and allow only gas to compressor
The Quick charge adapter slows the flow but it does not prevent liquid to the compressor.
I do not recommend them
your tank using R410 and put upside down. do u need to that too if using R32
Can you link to an example of actual butyl lined gloves available on the market? I cannot find them by that name and don't even know what they look like. You see all kinds of latex and nitrile but I don't know if that's the same thing or even if they will work. Thanks 😊.
subbed. I love your training methods. I believe you're the only person to have mentioned not flooding the compressor by only using short bursts, when the tap is close to the inlet. I do have a quick question though. using the short burst method, and using superheat to measure, (R410a on a piston)..... how long should you wait for the numbers before giving it another burst. surely it'll take forever if you can only give it a short burst at a time, then wait for the saturated temp to stabilize. New to this and i don't want to damage the compressor by not being patient enough.
Excellent video. thank you!
Would it be possible, faster to attach something like a KwikCharge metering device to the tank and then attach the hose to that to avoid having to manually meter in the liquid refrigerant? I’ve just recently started out in HVAC school so I’m still learning but was curious if that might work or not.
Good question
I covered that briefly in 116.
People really seam to love those but I don't think many really understand how they work. It is simply a fixed hole, a restrictor, a metering device.
The idea is it slows the flow of liquid refrigerant down enough so it has time to turn into a vapor. Slowing the flow being key. So if I buy a device that slows the flow, or an open and close the valve that slows the flow either way the flow is slowed and controlled.
What I do not like about that product are a few things.
1 it gives the false impression it's going to keep liquid out of the compressor. Under some conditions it will let to much refrigerant flow threw and a stream of liquid will enter the compressor. Under other conditions it will not let enough enter and takes to long.
2 for a new tech it can offer some protection but it oversimplifies it and in turn causes more problems. Techs will leave the valve open thinking it's protecting them. Liquid to compressors, overcharged systems can be an issue.
3 it hold too much liquid and oil in the unit. The idea is it's large enough to allow for a check valve so when flowing the opposite direction it fully opens. That extra space holds extra refregerants, oil, moisture and more possibilities for contamination.
When people want to use one I recommend the yellow jacket version Wich is much smaller and takes up less space.
I have had a lot of questions about it. They must have a good marketing campaign. When I get some more money together I will get some and show the operation the pros and the cons.
"Charging rate is up to eight times faster than vapor charging"
From the packaging.
They are comparing liquid charging to vapor charging. Charging by throttling liquid has always been faster than vapor.
Comparing charging by throttling vs charging by this device, they do not have any information. I'll order a few types and do some tests so we can all see.
@@love2hvac Awesome, thank you so much for the response. I'll go back and check out your episode 116!
What’s the adapter called to add charge?
thank you 🙏! you are making my job so much easier.
Excellent advice.
Do I charge a refrigerant while the AC is running or off?
When the system is running in cooling mode
Do I need to remove the Schrader core to do this
But if you purge in vapor doesn't it fractionate inside the tank
The only other option is purging liquid which is extremely dangerous.
It's the lesser of the 2
Wouldnt purging with vapor on zeotropic gases eventually cause fractionation and ruin the tank
Do these wireless probes have sensors to measure temperature? Are these battery or rechargeable through USC-C ports? Lastly, would these totally replace the manifold tool? Great video. 🙂
Yes I use the complete set with the measure quick app.
2 pressure probes.
3 temperature clamps (3rd one for the discharge line)
4 psycrometers (RA, SA, outdoor ambient)
2 pressure probes for return and supply pressure.
I have not used a manifold in a while.
I use a T and a single hose with a manual ball valve for charging.
The probes I use do use replaceable batteries Wich is easier to swap a battery rather than wait for one to charge.
You’re the Best Ty! I just got my probes!
Mark!!!!!!!!!
I love my set. I use the Measure Quick app, so much faster!
Thanks again for all of the great content. Is it wrong that my instructor taught me to open the tank a 1/4 turn just in case I have to quickly close the tank in an emergency? Does this effect my charge?
It's not wrong.
Some want to leave the tank 1/4 turn to slow the flow of refregerants leaving the tank also.
It originated from brazing so you could close the tank quickly is a fire broke out.
Always do what your instructor says.
Me personally I want tank completely open so control the flow with my ball valve.
I'm trying to think of an emergency, busted hose is the only scenario I can see. In that case I would flip the tank upright so only vapor would be coming out and quickly close the tank.
Again don't argue with your instructor. He or she is responsible for the safety of the class.
Great Video - Thanks, As old tech that got out business 15yr ago It's amazing of new tools available- Seeing nit many youngster willing to learn trade I might just come out retirement for another go-
The demand is high right now. Atleast come back and help teach
Like the condenser still has leaves inside as condenser in a Studio
Trying to keep it real
@@love2hvac keep the videos coming, great stuff
😂😂
Manifolds you can recalibrate yourself, digital you have to send to the supplier
Digital auto calibrates
did you use a Schrader removal tool? i have a similar one, will it work?
I just used a Tee,
You can use a core removal tool but it takes longer
Great explanation
Who doesn’t love them….
I waited way to long. I think they are great!
Crazy…l started doing that last year with my tanks
You’re supposed to use a reduction fitting on that bottle
Throttling it in with the valve does the same thing with better control and less fittings
Great Job sir TNX!
👍👍
Ball valve should be at the tank so you don't waste any refrigerant.
Thanks again for the video & tips !
🏈 🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🍿🎯
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
Purge the hose with refrigerant?? If we do this here, we will be prosecuted! Why not vac. the hose first?
In the USA this is a perfectly legal action.
#1 The EPA 608 allows for de-minimum release and purging. This is perfectly legal.
#2 You absolutely can connect a vacuum pump with a T and valves. But it's a lot of time with little benefits. running an extension cord, bringing out the pump is a time and cost factor.
#3 Protection, this de-minimum is allowed by the EPA, but you can look up the EPA 608 enforcement actions and find a technician has never been fined for venting. They mainly look for large companies, supermarkets, importers and occasionally people stealing units. Unfortunately there are a lot of people openly venting and even bragging about venting refrigerant with no repercussions. There are even videos of people recording themselves doing it. Several people I know have reported people venting even with video evidence and the person admitting it and nothing happens to them. The EPA dose not even follow up on it. While I believe we should drive to do better and be better there are practice limits on one hand and unlikely scare tactics on the other.
👍💪🐕🍎🇺🇸
Shoot 200psi 1lb at a time 😜😜
😂 yeah I've seen that too. We had a student talk out a compressor when he just opened it up. He was later expelled for sniffing refregerants during breaks. 🤣
If I use this method on a package unit can I flip the vale to the tank side?