Sometimes it's fun to do these things because you can. I don't own a real Prusa but I love your videos and love watching people in the community making their printers their own.
@@Insane_Kane Definitely, we have several FrankenBear Prusa in the community. Some with small form factor and some with 500mm on Z. Some have tried to build a Prusa from cloned parts and it is in general more expensive than a Prusa, or very very close. You would also don't have access to the very good support team and warranty...
I loved this video! In part because it was really calming, I might just let this run in the background while I'm working, and in part because it was easy to follow and informative.
I like how you keep saying, "It's not an upgrade." Just accept you can make things cooler by throwing money at them. We know a stock Prusa isn't a bad machine, but it doesn't have that flare.
Well, I was going to be upset since the next part wasn't out yet, but when I was removing one of the bearings from the X axis, I got a whole bunch of little metal balls all over the desk. So, I have to wait for new bearings, which should be here tomorrow. In the mean time, got most of the X axis put together, I am using the Bondtech extruder upgrade so had to use a different mount (www.thingiverse.com/thing:3477926), but it is ready for the replacement bearing and then I can put everything else together. Looking forward to the next part. Just hope I got everything printed since all my printers are down now. :)
Just in case you disassembled your Stock printer completely and mixed up the Rods to do this upgrade. The X axis rods are the longest ones @ 370mm long.
Nice video. I love the general upgrades to the parts over my mk2 counterpart. I noticed that you didn't seem to pay mind to the curl in the nylon filament, at least on camera. Making sure it curls upward helps keeps the cords off of prints. It was an issue I had in the past.
Thanks for the vid! I'm doing my upgrade now :) BTW you missed a great opportunity to pack bearings with fresh grease :) On a related note how do you grease your printers?
THAT POOR M3!!!! YOU´RE AN ANIMAL!!!! JK, I would have done it the same way under those circumstances :P (Although, that flush cutter went straight into the bin, didn´t it?) Great vid as usual! Thx!
There is really no need. One guy stand-up on the frame to prove how strong it is :-D Another problem is that extrusions are never perfectly flat because of the way they are made. It is melted aluminum, so like our 3D prints it can wrap, twist and shrink. Tolerances are quite high for aluminum extrusions, including from brand like Misumi (they even don't give tolerance on the cut). This is why Openbuilds (and so my frame) are using thick joining plates, it allows you to align everything perfectly. The problem with the brackets in corners or through hole mounts is that you cannot compensate for those little inaccuracies.
Hi at 2.56 I can't see small metal balls inside your lm8uu bearing have you removed it purposely ? Whats the benefit of doing so? Waiting for your reply !!!
Peter Ellens joe mentioned in other video that he rarely uses the filament sensor, he also mentioned a neat trick where you can paint the inside black so you are not limited to any colour, pretty cool 😎
An interesting X-Axis. I have an i3 clone, that I bought incomplete and that I upgrade with Mk2S parts, that I clone myself. But now I think, this X-Axis might be an better upgrade than reusing the old CTC Axis and adding the direct drive extruder from an Mk2S there
I have no idea but if you join one of the community we could probably figure out after some chat. You can find the source files (Fusion 360 and STEP) on my website also if you want to measure it.
Those parts that you printed in Polycarbonate...did you print them with a Prusa i3 MK3s? Also, it is recommended to print the extruder in a dark color or black. Was there a reason you did it in white?
They were printed on the Raise3D Pro2. The reason it is recommended to print them in black is due to the sensitivity of the filament sensor, I don’t tend to use it so it didn’t make any difference. However I could always paint the inside sensor chamber black if I need to
question, I'm having a weird problem that no one seems to be able to answer. I need to adjust the "throat" of my anet a8, yet its stuck. I dont want to break another... yet I cant remove or tighten it, any advice?
The last conversation I had with him confirmed that vertical is better as there is less of a chance of heat from buildplate to be recycled and it also prolonged the life of the bearings
@@3DMakerNoob This makes sense as the fan is further away it applies more leverage onto the bearings and the rods. Damn physics is hard. Thanks you man have a great day
@@lenny6617Yes Joe summarized it perfectly. A member of my community did some simulation as well. 90° shroud has more static pressure but less velocity, 45° shroud has more velocity but less pressure. Now which one is better is hard to answer. Probably having more pressure is good if you are close to the nozzle, more velocity if you blow all around widely. I also feel that the blower has much more impact than the shroud. My extruder has also several improvements on the bottom (around heatbreak) to let the part cool down better and improve thermal separation between heated block and heatsink. This will also have a little role on the ability to cool down the layers. Even heatsink cooling has a role to play, colder heatsink means less heat on the bottom, means better cooling of the printed part.
It looks nice but I checked the website and its a pretty expensive upgrade. For that price I would have expected linear rails for the Y axis as part of the upgrade kit. Other than that gripe, its a good looking kit.
Joe, may I ask which branch of the Bear x-axis and extruder you used? Is this the (~6 month old since last Github update) "master" branch, or the active "dev" branch with v0.6?
There is not enough material on the side to allow for a deep enough countersink the way it is. A slot in the X idler mount could probably be added to compensate for the screw head.
@@halsaresnowpaw522 I've looked at the STL. The thickness/width of the wall where you place the pin is 3.25 mm. An M3 countersink requires a depth of ~2 mm.
@@bernardtarverThe head of the M3 bolts I am using are 2.9mm. The specifications I could find for the head size gave a range of 2.85 to 3mm. That doesn't leave a lot of material.
X-Axis assembly starts at 1:33
Extruder assembly starts at 7:48
3DMN how do i mod the prusa i3 mk.2.5s frame into the same like the mk3s
You’d need a completely different frame to convert it to a mk3 structure
@@DeeFPV Check my part and description here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3468567 :-)
Did you use the MK3 carriage, or the MK3s carriage @Grégoire Saunier mentioned on twitter?
Does the kit work with the MK3s?
Sometimes it's fun to do these things because you can. I don't own a real Prusa but I love your videos and love watching people in the community making their printers their own.
You dont need to own a real prusa, you can print this extruder yourself :)
@@Insane_Kane Definitely, we have several FrankenBear Prusa in the community. Some with small form factor and some with 500mm on Z. Some have tried to build a Prusa from cloned parts and it is in general more expensive than a Prusa, or very very close. You would also don't have access to the very good support team and warranty...
I loved this video! In part because it was really calming, I might just let this run in the background while I'm working, and in part because it was easy to follow and informative.
I totally agree with this comment!
I like how you keep saying, "It's not an upgrade." Just accept you can make things cooler by throwing money at them. We know a stock Prusa isn't a bad machine, but it doesn't have that flare.
hey dude this frame looks awesome! I’m anxious to seeing this working ;)
It's fricken gorgeous. No other reason needed
Good tip for the bearing alignment :) *goes and checks printer*
Ya, the Prusa guide for my MK3 showed to have the little balls inside the bearing to all be on the 3,6,9,12 o'clock positions.
Respect from Saudi Arabia
We all love you and support your channel
Well, I was going to be upset since the next part wasn't out yet, but when I was removing one of the bearings from the X axis, I got a whole bunch of little metal balls all over the desk. So, I have to wait for new bearings, which should be here tomorrow. In the mean time, got most of the X axis put together, I am using the Bondtech extruder upgrade so had to use a different mount (www.thingiverse.com/thing:3477926), but it is ready for the replacement bearing and then I can put everything else together.
Looking forward to the next part. Just hope I got everything printed since all my printers are down now. :)
Wow that x belt assembly is so much better than stock. I need to tighten mine and it's so much more hassle
Awesome! I love it, thanks!!
I wish that ALL3D Makers would have made a CR 10 aluminium frame too with these beautiful and quality extrusions.
If anyone is interested in fork my frame for Creality I would be happy to give some support!
Well done Joe! Thanks.
Reminds me the Anet A8 metal upgrade, which turned a $150 into a tank.
I may do this upgrade at one point. Seems fun.
Im Exicited
Looking Good >>>>>>>
Thank you :)
Just in case you disassembled your Stock printer completely and mixed up the Rods to do this upgrade. The X axis rods are the longest ones @ 370mm long.
Could you do a maintenance video for the Prusa MK3? I've never done one on mine either and really don't know what I'm expected to do or how often.
Tony MacDonald almost 9 months into my mk3 and I’m on the same boat. Would love this video as well
Awesome guide! Sorry btw for not being a Patreon at the moment, had to save me some money, but I'll be back! :)
No need to apologise buddy, thank you :)
Nice video. I love the general upgrades to the parts over my mk2 counterpart. I noticed that you didn't seem to pay mind to the curl in the nylon filament, at least on camera. Making sure it curls upward helps keeps the cords off of prints. It was an issue I had in the past.
Thanks for the vid! I'm doing my upgrade now :) BTW you missed a great opportunity to pack bearings with fresh grease :) On a related note how do you grease your printers?
Thumbs up for F1TV in the background
Haha, was wondering if anyone would notice :)
THAT POOR M3!!!! YOU´RE AN ANIMAL!!!! JK, I would have done it the same way under those circumstances :P (Although, that flush cutter went straight into the bin, didn´t it?) Great vid as usual! Thx!
Looks nice, personally I would add support to the corners to keep the 2040's square and flush
There is really no need. One guy stand-up on the frame to prove how strong it is :-D
Another problem is that extrusions are never perfectly flat because of the way they are made. It is melted aluminum, so like our 3D prints it can wrap, twist and shrink. Tolerances are quite high for aluminum extrusions, including from brand like Misumi (they even don't give tolerance on the cut). This is why Openbuilds (and so my frame) are using thick joining plates, it allows you to align everything perfectly. The problem with the brackets in corners or through hole mounts is that you cannot compensate for those little inaccuracies.
5:30 RIP pliers
Hi at 2.56 I can't see small metal balls inside your lm8uu bearing have you removed it purposely ? Whats the benefit of doing so? Waiting for your reply !!!
21:26 "The Nylon PLA"? :-O
Just trolling :) Nicely done, beautiful result!
Haha, I was hoping no one would notice lol 😂
How did you get the parts fit so well. Mine print like there is no tolerance and parts beak as I insert the 8mm metal rods no matter what I do.
White plastic around the optical filament sensor?? good luck with that.
Peter Ellens joe mentioned in other video that he rarely uses the filament sensor, he also mentioned a neat trick where you can paint the inside black so you are not limited to any colour, pretty cool 😎
Meh, turn it off. It's not a big deal.
@@justinl.3587 Agreed. It has never worked reliably for me. Always false triggering an out of filament state.
An interesting X-Axis. I have an i3 clone, that I bought incomplete and that I upgrade with Mk2S parts, that I clone myself. But now I think, this X-Axis might be an better upgrade than reusing the old CTC Axis and adding the direct drive extruder from an Mk2S there
nice, thanks.
where do i get the fan shroud file from? its not with the extruder files
could you do a bear upgrade for an anet a8?
can i use these plastic bear parts with original prusa mk3s parts? Or it require some other components beside plastic parts that are different?
Joe, I’m wondering if this kit would work with my Tronxy P802M, your thoughts?
It probably would to be honest, but I can confirm
I have no idea but if you join one of the community we could probably figure out after some chat. You can find the source files (Fusion 360 and STEP) on my website also if you want to measure it.
I think I died a little bit inside when I saw you use your flush cutters to cut off a bolt, all of those tools and not a hacksaw and the bunch huh? :)
He said we should not judge him :-D
Those parts that you printed in Polycarbonate...did you print them with a Prusa i3 MK3s? Also, it is recommended to print the extruder in a dark color or black. Was there a reason you did it in white?
They were printed on the Raise3D Pro2. The reason it is recommended to print them in black is due to the sensitivity of the filament sensor, I don’t tend to use it so it didn’t make any difference. However I could always paint the inside sensor chamber black if I need to
@@3DMakerNoob is it possible to print that stuff on the prusa?
This extruder looks like a Heavy Tank. How fast can you print with it?
Do you have the stl files and the dimensions of the aluminium red frames? Thanks keep posted
I feel like you are using styrofoam for the hotend because of the color.
Haha, this one is slightly tougher ;)
what is the lenght of the x axis rods?
question, I'm having a weird problem that no one seems to be able to answer.
I need to adjust the "throat" of my anet a8, yet its stuck. I dont want to break another... yet I cant remove or tighten it, any advice?
very nice but where we can find the stl files to print the x-axis ??
many thanks
bob
What white filament did you use for the extruder? I used Atomic Filament's Bright white PETG for mine.
It’s polymax PC
@@3DMakerNoob thanks. I just realized you said it in the video. Lol
Why didn't you use the 45 degree angle fan mount? any reason? Greg said that it was the best as well.
The last conversation I had with him confirmed that vertical is better as there is less of a chance of heat from buildplate to be recycled and it also prolonged the life of the bearings
@@3DMakerNoob This makes sense as the fan is further away it applies more leverage onto the bearings and the rods. Damn physics is hard. Thanks you man have a great day
@@lenny6617Yes Joe summarized it perfectly. A member of my community did some simulation as well. 90° shroud has more static pressure but less velocity, 45° shroud has more velocity but less pressure. Now which one is better is hard to answer. Probably having more pressure is good if you are close to the nozzle, more velocity if you blow all around widely. I also feel that the blower has much more impact than the shroud.
My extruder has also several improvements on the bottom (around heatbreak) to let the part cool down better and improve thermal separation between heated block and heatsink. This will also have a little role on the ability to cool down the layers. Even heatsink cooling has a role to play, colder heatsink means less heat on the bottom, means better cooling of the printed part.
5:30 verry bad :(
What length the ptfe tube is (2)?
rip those flush cut snips :'(
RIP cutting edges on flush cutters.
Hi, I need to order some things, How can I do that ?
wish i knew the size of the X rod, I ended up putting the wrong ones on :(
I also would like to know this. Is it 370mm?
@@3D_printer_guy It is! I ended up using the guides from here: guides.bear-lab.com/
REALLY helped me a lot!
It looks nice but I checked the website and its a pretty expensive upgrade. For that price I would have expected linear rails for the Y axis as part of the upgrade kit. Other than that gripe, its a good looking kit.
where can I get the tensioner for the x-axis?
I left the link in the video description
Joe, may I ask which branch of the Bear x-axis and extruder you used? Is this the (~6 month old since last Github update) "master" branch, or the active "dev" branch with v0.6?
This is 0.6.0, still working on the MK2.5S and MK3S version (in the dev branch)
@@gregoiresaunier2622 is 0.6.0 the version in master branch? From 6 months ago? That's what I should use for full bear MK3?
@@AustinVojta Yes master branch or my thingiverse, both are up to date
pls sleep more :D, but nice work, see you next time!!
Yeah Team! Scratch build those Prusa Bears! #MyBear: ruclips.net/video/p1p2aZRCue8/видео.html
Went with an E3D Hemera myself.
Never go full bear.
20.000h is like 833 days :D
And 833 days is about 2.2 years.
4:35 Wait...Just reprint the idler mount with a countersunk hole.
There is not enough material on the side to allow for a deep enough countersink the way it is. A slot in the X idler mount could probably be added to compensate for the screw head.
@@halsaresnowpaw522 I've looked at the STL. The thickness/width of the wall where you place the pin is 3.25 mm. An M3 countersink requires a depth of ~2 mm.
@@bernardtarverThe head of the M3 bolts I am using are 2.9mm. The specifications I could find for the head size gave a range of 2.85 to 3mm. That doesn't leave a lot of material.
@@halsaresnowpaw522 To elaborate, use a flat head screw with a countersunk hole.
What is the size of the aluminum frame parts?