May I suggest you try milling parts for your projects using 1" PVC board or HDPE? On my next project I will try it instead of using wood . Great video buddy!!!
It's a great idea reviving that old printer Nik!! I started with an old Mk2 clone I got from a friend, then built another two heavily modified i3 style printers keeping the kinematics on slightly larger frames, and both on 9mm plywood box frames. Much more rigid than single 18mm ply. Just a hint on bolting on or trough plywood, soak the holes with CA glue before assembly, makes the ply stiffer. And yes, dont forget washers :-D The only thing is, all plastic parts better be printed from PETG rather than PLA. Other than that, nicely executed project, well done!!
Really cool project! I am currently in the process of making a dremel CNC out of my old Tevo Tarantula. I agree, the building and problem solving processes can be tiring, but it is such a good reward when all is assembled and you realise you've made something new and better out of something that, unfortunately, some people would have chucked in the bin and ended up in landfill.
Great rebuild/upgrade to an old printer! For the flexible, it looks like it's clogging since it started fine and then had issues. If part cooling is on, turn it off, otherwise I would only increase the print temperature and try again. 👍
Printing tpu can be challenging but what I found out is to increase the flow rate to 120% 228 degrees on the hot end, bed temp off, and part cooling off.
@@joeanderson2642 I haven't had to adjust flow any for TPU. I run first layer at 250, then 230 for the rest. Depending on the design, I may turn on cooling but no higher than 30-40%, mostly for bridging stuff. I slow it down to 30mm/s and use retraction too. I always heard TPU was difficult but mine come out like it's PLA.
Just got to see your video for the first time, completely by accident, came up along with other 3d print-related channels. Great content, cool videos (watched maybe 3 soo far) gonna watch more deffo! and also, keep up the great work, looking forward to another video!! Pozdroo ;)
I bought one of those china clone 3d printers for about £90 and it was not very rigid so i kept it as it was but mounted it on a ply base plate then added wood blocks to reinforce the frame using gorilla glue that made it very solid i added motor mounts printed by the machine plus another few improvements a extruder head ducting fan really improved things and my machine turns out prints better than my mates ender 3 he cant get it to work as good as my old cheapy clone ... good video and good luck with your projects
Hah dopiero w 5:18 usłyszałem jak wymawiasz "thing" i wiedziałem, że jesteś Polakiem. Wcześniej nie wiedziałem do końca co to za akcent, dobra robota. Powodzenia!
I’m now close to four years in the 3D printing hobby and I am considering building my own printer. I feel like the journey of building one could take me into the next step of experience with 3D printers
Добрый день, ты молодец!!! Самостоятельно изготовил принтер и умеешь работать на станках. У нас России такие ребята были только во времена СССР. Двигайся вперёд, и ты станешь великим инженером!
Hi, thanks for the video, it is great . If you want print on glass , you need to take thinner glass like 2mm and wait 5 minute after printing to the bed temperature decrease, in this way you can pull over your print with the hand with no difficulty. I saw you pull hard on them, you can broke or bend your prints: See you around
Very Nice! Ive done the same but using conduit as a frame. Your flex filament issues could be due to not having the bite of the bondtech. I have printed beautifully with those, while the old tensioned filament wheel with a gear used in cheaper clones like my ANet A8 gave me a lot of problems. Once switched to bondtech it has been smooth sailing for the most part
Great job recycling the old parts! I really like the colors you chose - the blue and black combination looks fantastic! You've inspired me to give my old 3D printers a new lease on life too! #MotionSimBuilder :)
Plywood will eventually absorb water and warp. I'd apply several layers of polyurethane varnish and/or epoxy to seal the wood before assembly. 3D printed extruder parts that are under spring tension will eventually fail. I'd have CNC'ed them from aluminum.
i hope the keys you showed at 11:45 are no longer in use, otherwise the video footage should be enough to replicate them (afaik that's how the "secret"-TSA Keys leaked a few years ago when an picture of the master key got published for an news article) Also Deviant Ollam has some interesting videos about lockpicking, "stealing" keys and physical pen-testing on his channel. In at least one of his talks he explains how to measure keys from a photo to cut duplicates.
Great video! Good editing and good audio! Im in the process of building an i3 mk2 from my old Prusa i2 (mendel), and i wonder how you did with the heated bed? Is the heated plate under the aluminium plate? i have been using a glass plate right on top of the heated bed pcb on my old printer, should i change that?
I am impressed on how wel you did this, job wel done. I do however have some doubt about the plywood. Plywood could warp after a while, maybe you should make some enforcement to prevent the warping of the wood (just to be sure). overal, great project and wel executed.
@03:11 Am I the only one that sprays the hard to reach areas ( like the edges, corners, etc... ) of a part first to ensure good coverage in those areas without oversaturating the easily reachable and clearly visible ones sprayed afterwards? 🤔 I own an original *Prusa i3 MK3S & MMU2S* myself but have since started migrating over to a 350 sized *Voron 2.4* ( completed ) with aims of equipping it with an *ERCF* ( to replace the MMU2S ) and if there's one thing I'd like to suggest then it's replacing the i3 MK3S E-Axis with a Voron Afterburner/Clockwork one. Fixing any issue on the Afterburner/Clockwork is like a 2min easy to reach 4-6 screw disassembly/assembly thing as everything can be taken apart modularly allowing for the bulk of the machine to remain where you use it while you service the Toolhead elsewhere whereas on a Prusa i3 you're _easily_ looking at a 30-60min fuckfest with the entire machine needing to be unhooked from whatever is stuck to it ( cough... Power Cables, Network Cable, 5 PTFE Tubes, etc... ) come with you wherever you plan to service it ( ask me how I know after I had to replrint the entire i3 E-Axis after melting it down from 3d printing the ABS Parts for my Voron 2.4 )
Siema! Co to za system szufladek w którym trzymasz wszystkie śrubki? Jakiś gotowiec, albo samoróbka? Fajny pomysł, muszę u siebie uporządkować drobnicę :) Pozdrawiam!
seeing you are using the same masterspool as I do, have you ever had issue with filament getting stuck on the side ? Like if it was squished when the spool gets closed
Hello Nikodem Bartnik nice work. Where can I find the files on the frame? The link in the description goes to the printer part, not the structure frame.
with a new re build what firmware do you put on it, Im not into 3d print yet carnt make my mind up what to go for but its the electronic and computer side that baffles me especially when people say 8 bit or 32 bit or run klipper and octoprint 🤯
After making the video I added a bltouch so now even if the frame will wrap a bit it should still print fine. If it will wrap a lot I will probably just replace it with something else
![The best Prusa MK3S 3D printer alternative? [test, compare, review]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z-OkYePawN8/mqdefault.jpg)
The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/nikodembartnik09211
May I suggest you try milling parts for your projects using 1" PVC board or HDPE? On my next project I will try it instead of using wood .
Great video buddy!!!
what plastic should i use for your 3d egg bot parts?
Next step Ender 3 to Voron SW ;) I did it and this is awesome! :)
Ender 5 to Mercury One CoreXY with 310x310mm.
What were the cost for SW conversion?
I do like the way you show what goes wrong as well as what goes right. Has inspired me to upgrade an old printer, thanks
This is pretty much how I made my second printer. Good stuff!
Great project and well executed. Adding Klipper and tuning it would bring the old printer into this age again.
Klipper is great for speed printing, but marlin for the average 3d printer it's fine (with a 32 bit main board
I did the same for my Anet A6 Prusified. But I used metal not wood for frame and lft original heatbed carriage. Nicely done!
Ich habe einen Anet A8. Würde ihn gerne umbauen auf Prusa. Wo bekomme ich die Teile und vor allem das Board. Kannst du mir helfen. Danke!
It's a great idea reviving that old printer Nik!! I started with an old Mk2 clone I got from a friend, then built another two heavily modified i3 style printers keeping the kinematics on slightly larger frames, and both on 9mm plywood box frames. Much more rigid than single 18mm ply. Just a hint on bolting on or trough plywood, soak the holes with CA glue before assembly, makes the ply stiffer. And yes, dont forget washers :-D The only thing is, all plastic parts better be printed from PETG rather than PLA. Other than that, nicely executed project, well done!!
Really cool project! I am currently in the process of making a dremel CNC out of my old Tevo Tarantula.
I agree, the building and problem solving processes can be tiring, but it is such a good reward when all is assembled and you realise you've made something new and better out of something that, unfortunately, some people would have chucked in the bin and ended up in landfill.
Seriously, this was a very enjoyable video. Thanks!
Great rebuild/upgrade to an old printer! For the flexible, it looks like it's clogging since it started fine and then had issues. If part cooling is on, turn it off, otherwise I would only increase the print temperature and try again. 👍
Printing tpu can be challenging but what I found out is to increase the flow rate to 120% 228 degrees on the hot end, bed temp off, and part cooling off.
@@joeanderson2642 I haven't had to adjust flow any for TPU. I run first layer at 250, then 230 for the rest. Depending on the design, I may turn on cooling but no higher than 30-40%, mostly for bridging stuff. I slow it down to 30mm/s and use retraction too. I always heard TPU was difficult but mine come out like it's PLA.
It is my first day watching any of your videos, I don't know you and probably should not be saying this , but I am extremely proud of you.
Thanks a lot!
I'm only just building one of these for my first build. Thanks for the videos.
I have an old Anet A 8 I might bring back to life
Just got to see your video for the first time, completely by accident, came up along with other 3d print-related channels.
Great content, cool videos (watched maybe 3 soo far) gonna watch more deffo!
and also, keep up the great work, looking forward to another video!!
Pozdroo ;)
I have similar issues printing flexible filaments when the material is too wet. Drying the spool usually gives me great prints again.
Thanks
Loved the video, especially the conclusion
Nice! I Have a prusa I2 and print many parts with quality.
EXCELENT VIDEO.
Beautiful work and dedication, congratulations🤜🤛👏👏👏👏👏👏
"Fixing is always better than throwing away...". I totally agree.
Great work! Very few parts left to throw away, good for the planet!
Excellent Work Niko
Your Videos are EXCELLENT !
I bought one of those china clone 3d printers for about £90 and it was not very rigid so i kept it as it was but mounted it on a ply base plate then added wood blocks to reinforce the frame using gorilla glue that made it very solid i added motor mounts printed by the machine plus another few improvements a extruder head ducting fan really improved things and my machine turns out prints better than my mates ender 3 he cant get it to work as good as my old cheapy clone ... good video and good luck with your projects
Gran proyecto estimado, saludos desde Chile ✌️
Execellent idea, thanks for share.
Hah dopiero w 5:18 usłyszałem jak wymawiasz "thing" i wiedziałem, że jesteś Polakiem. Wcześniej nie wiedziałem do końca co to za akcent, dobra robota. Powodzenia!
Thank you for the great video on recycling. You are an inspiration.
I’m now close to four years in the 3D printing hobby and I am considering building my own printer. I feel like the journey of building one could take me into the next step of experience with 3D printers
Добрый день, ты молодец!!! Самостоятельно изготовил принтер и умеешь работать на станках. У нас России такие ребята были только во времена СССР. Двигайся вперёд, и ты станешь великим инженером!
Hi, thanks for the video, it is great . If you want print on glass , you need to take thinner glass like 2mm and wait 5 minute after printing to the bed temperature decrease, in this way you can pull over your print with the hand with no difficulty. I saw you pull hard on them, you can broke or bend your prints:
See you around
Excelent upgrade mate 👍👍👍
Well done ..... reprap concept applied nicely. :-)
Nice work!
Te ha quedado muy bien. 😃 👍
I congratulate you for your determination. A Turk from Germany
Looks exactly like my old printer. Just that mine was much worse because it was from 6mm plywood
Super cool, I like your drive and skill💪✌️🇺🇸😎
Well done, Nikodem!
Thanks for this.. I have beds from old anet printers just hanging around collecting dust..
Jaki filament używasz i na jakich ustawieniach? Świetny projekt swoją drogą :)
Very Nice! Ive done the same but using conduit as a frame. Your flex filament issues could be due to not having the bite of the bondtech. I have printed beautifully with those, while the old tensioned filament wheel with a gear used in cheaper clones like my ANet A8 gave me a lot of problems. Once switched to bondtech it has been smooth sailing for the most part
Nice video!
Bro you can get a BMG style gears from 7 bucks! Like from Spain!
Great job recycling the old parts! I really like the colors you chose - the blue and black combination looks fantastic! You've inspired me to give my old 3D printers a new lease on life too! #MotionSimBuilder :)
In 2024? When the video was uploaded 2 years ago?
Looks great. I wish I was as good with 3d cad as you are. You should design and build a corexy 3d printer with klipper.
Maybe you should use the aluminium vslots profile to guide the Y carriage. You'll get more precious inches!
Plywood will eventually absorb water and warp. I'd apply several layers of polyurethane varnish and/or epoxy to seal the wood before assembly.
3D printed extruder parts that are under spring tension will eventually fail. I'd have CNC'ed them from aluminum.
i hope the keys you showed at 11:45 are no longer in use, otherwise the video footage should be enough to replicate them (afaik that's how the "secret"-TSA Keys leaked a few years ago when an picture of the master key got published for an news article)
Also Deviant Ollam has some interesting videos about lockpicking, "stealing" keys and physical pen-testing on his channel. In at least one of his talks he explains how to measure keys from a photo to cut duplicates.
Great video! Good editing and good audio! Im in the process of building an i3 mk2 from my old Prusa i2 (mendel), and i wonder how you did with the heated bed? Is the heated plate under the aluminium plate? i have been using a glass plate right on top of the heated bed pcb on my old printer, should i change that?
I would be interested in seeing you review other companies Mainboard.
Comparing them against each other.
Nice 3d printer
I am impressed on how wel you did this, job wel done. I do however have some doubt about the plywood. Plywood could warp after a while, maybe you should make some enforcement to prevent the warping of the wood (just to be sure). overal, great project and wel executed.
Super :)
@03:11 Am I the only one that sprays the hard to reach areas ( like the edges, corners, etc... ) of a part first to ensure good coverage in those areas without oversaturating the easily reachable and clearly visible ones sprayed afterwards? 🤔
I own an original *Prusa i3 MK3S & MMU2S* myself but have since started migrating over to a 350 sized *Voron 2.4* ( completed ) with aims of equipping it with an *ERCF* ( to replace the MMU2S ) and if there's one thing I'd like to suggest then it's replacing the i3 MK3S E-Axis with a Voron Afterburner/Clockwork one. Fixing any issue on the Afterburner/Clockwork is like a 2min easy to reach 4-6 screw disassembly/assembly thing as everything can be taken apart modularly allowing for the bulk of the machine to remain where you use it while you service the Toolhead elsewhere whereas on a Prusa i3 you're _easily_ looking at a 30-60min fuckfest with the entire machine needing to be unhooked from whatever is stuck to it ( cough... Power Cables, Network Cable, 5 PTFE Tubes, etc... ) come with you wherever you plan to service it ( ask me how I know after I had to replrint the entire i3 E-Axis after melting it down from 3d printing the ABS Parts for my Voron 2.4 )
❤
Why is the title 2024 when the video was released in 2021?
Now go ahead and remplace the main board and it will be top tier (maybe adding a bl-touch too)
try klipper on it and test the max acceleration
Hi, what settings did you use for your old prusa i3? And what firmware/software did you use? I'm having some printing/coordinates issues with mine.
Excelente proyecto.
Es mejor hacerlo en acrílico, son mucho más precisos los cortes y da mas firmeza.
Siema! Co to za system szufladek w którym trzymasz wszystkie śrubki? Jakiś gotowiec, albo samoróbka? Fajny pomysł, muszę u siebie uporządkować drobnicę :) Pozdrawiam!
Where can I get the x-motor and x idler stl file for tr8?
seeing you are using the same masterspool as I do, have you ever had issue with filament getting stuck on the side ? Like if it was squished when the spool gets closed
Is your frame DXF sized for you bed or is it the same just with the 2020 extrusion taps holes?
Hello Nikodem Bartnik nice work. Where can I find the files on the frame? The link in the description goes to the printer part, not the structure frame.
with a new re build what firmware do you put on it, Im not into 3d print yet carnt make my mind up what to go for but its the electronic and computer side that baffles me especially when people say 8 bit or 32 bit or run klipper and octoprint 🤯
What are the measurements of the frames?
Cześć mógł bys powiedzieć jak zamocowałeś krańcówki
skąd masz plan na oś Y?
I did similar build with my old homemade 3d printer. Can you share the spool holder stl for the plywood frame?
Verry cool way to use a ender 3
Do you answer messages left on your website?
could you please share the f3d file? thanks.
Hej jak zrobiłeś łóże grzewcze?
Guys I soooo into 3D printing, if any one have old one and want to donate it I will be very grateful 🙏
Nice video but if you`re trying to get something better out of an old crappy printer you maybe should try a more recent kinematic e.g coreXY.
Printer frame design how to download please sir
Can you please compare it with the Ender 3?
whst about the firmware???
That's a lot of eggs!!!
I am worried about the warping of the frame. Perhaps reinforcement is needed.
After making the video I added a bltouch so now even if the frame will wrap a bit it should still print fine. If it will wrap a lot I will probably just replace it with something else
Did you use a square bed? Looks different from the original prusa size.
yes, it is a bit smaller
Don't use zipties as structural parts. You could have designed something to replace this silliness
A Prusa Bear or Caribou frame were a better idea, just a hint.
Crazy janky job xD
ayyy
Najchętniej to zamknąłbym się w warsztacie i budował rzeczy.
looks like an aneta8???
Would love to have the firmware file
is that plastic that holds the hotend?
Yes. I believe prusa uses either ABS or PETG for those parts
@@ilyas5708 ohh thank you for answering. I didnt think plastic would work for that
I'm curious about the plywood, how it's gonna behave in future, because plywood warp overtime quite often. Overall, great build!
I sent you an email about CNC Dremel, and I didn't get a response from you!
please could answer!
thanks!
bro what is your age plz tell me
Can we build one from scratch?
Just perfect
It is bill Gates
prusza
It is since forvever that I want a 3d printer and my brother is already recycling one 🤣🤣😭😭😭😭