Since then I have just found out that there is a hidden easter-egg "Experimental" menu in the new Prusa 3.9.1 Firmware where you can set up an "ALTFAN" (alternative fan option, because of the Noctua supply shortage the original Prusa had to deliver 3D printers with other fans also) which slows down the nozzle fan RPM and at the same time it makes the 3D printer more quiet. I will make a short video about it, but you can also try it out when you go under Settings -> HW setup and roll down to the bottom and push the knob around 3s. After it the new menu will pop up at the very bottom. Could be that it wont make any change first just after you restarted the printer. Tell me if you managed it.
I recently bought the Fysetc clone and tried the altfan option. It reduced the speed from around 7200 to 2800, which is even 1200rpm lower than the original noctua one. Combined with the seemingly lower efficiency, I think this might possibly lead to the heatcreep issue territory.
Glad to see your good results with your Fysetc clone, definitely a testamant to just how polished the MK3S is as a design. I own two clones, one from Trianglelab and another from Blurolls, as well as a genuine kit from Prusa Research. I am planning on adding at least a Fysetc one as well as a colored Sealand/Blurolls frame kit to my farm. Long as you understand that you may have to replace some parts on your own they'll assemble just fine. That said, if I hadn't bought my genuine Prusa first, I would've never known what to check for on my clones to make sure everything was being assembled correctly. Run Sunon fans if you can from the start and definitely just print the PETG parts yourself as even Prusa's own farm parts leave a bit to be desired. And if you can, do Paul's silicone bed mod to ensure a super flat bed, genuine or clone. It's basically the nylock mod but better. Also stock up on those POM/Delrin leadscrew nuts and linear bearings, especially the leadscrew nuts if you're prone to destroying them like me. In my experience I ended up liking my clones better just cause I knew what parts I was throwing into them and the fact support was on me. I also had a pretty bad experience with Prusa Support that led to me lone wolfing my genuine MK3S. My Trianglelab clone has more hours printing than even my genuine MK3S and I had the genuine one the longest so make of that what you will. I did hear the Fysetc clone ships with a PTFE 4.1 bore hotend which if that's the case is just plain stupid. I am running Trianglelab's pre assembled V6 clone specifically for the MK3S on all my kits and as far as I know they are all metal from factory. For those saying the clones rip off Prusa Research, well the design is open source and the license specifically allows clones like these to be sold legally. Overall, great video and I am interested to see if you'll be reviewing the Bear frame clones or other vendor's clone kits such as Trianglelab and Blurolls/Sealand in the future!
@@Dombi3D github.com/PaulGameDev/PrusaMK3_Silicone_Leveling/blob/master/PrusaMK3_Silicone-Leveling-Jig-ThinBlade.stl forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles/prusa-mini-silicone-bed-leveling-mod/ For the jig and a comparable guide except done on a Prusa mini, process is very similar to doing the nylock mod though on the MK3S. I don't think he's finished the guide yet but it installs similarly like the famous nylock mod. Only difference is you cut 3mm ID 7-8mm OD silicone car vacuum tubing to act as the new standoffs. Basically take off the bed, remove all the metal spacers except the one in the middle and replace them with the tubing cut with the jig. Carefully reassemble the bed so that it's being screwed in evenly and the silicone is compressed to the height of the old spacers. Once that is done fire up octoprint or pronterface and run G80, let that finish probing and then run G81 to get the absolute values. Once that is done throw the values in to this site pcboy.github.io/g81_relative/ and it'll convert it and tell you which screws to turn to raise or lower the bed. Once you get it to about 0.05 deviation you can start to level it at the bed temps you normally print at to get it super flat. When it gets to about 0.02-0.03 deviation it's good enough and the PINDA will take care of any remaining deviation. Paul recommends releveling after a week to account for the silicone settling in. Having done it to one of my clones I can honestly say it's worth the trouble but if your leveling is fine with the metal spacers I wouldn't mess with it. Sorry for the long write up and if anything is unclear. Paul is active on discord, mainly Prusa's and 602 and if you need more info I can link you to those servers.
Thanks for the explanation. It looks really interesting. I have the feeling that the normal nylock mod is more stable but maybe I will give a try to this version also.
Suspect the faste fan makes the temp sensor have an offset on the clone. That would explain a lot of the things seen together with the voltage levels. Would be cool to see the voltage measured by a separate instrument.
i always thought the Prusa i3s were open source so theres no clones or fakes. i built my prusa i3 MK3s from parts i sourced from the internet no kit, and it works just as good as one built by Prusa
I don't mind paying for more for an original prusa. But man their lead times are horrible. If you want to pay more you expect great service but also decent shipping times. Your review makes it tempting to go for such a clone.
Sorry, you missed the most impotant security issue on the clone. Fysetc uses a 4.1 bore heatbreak, so the tube inside the hotend contacts the nozzle. This is extremly dangerous, as the original Prusa has an all-metal heatbreak - so Prusas firmware allows up to 295°C mozzle temp - a temperature where PTFE already degrades into toxid fumes. Simply one wrong click (preheat accidently for Polycarbonate in the menu) needed... So never ever use the heatbreak delivered with the kit. Always order an all-metal heatbreak - and use it instead of the 4.1bore one. Of course you can alternativly change the firmware (but if next upgrade from Prusa comes, do not forget modifying it again). (Same problem with the Prusa Mini Clone by Fysetc, by the way - I recommend the Bondtech heatbreak there) Of course, if you plan on adding an MMU2s / MMU2s-Clone later, you should buy an e3d heatbreak in Prusa Edition (has a special inside design for forming the filament-tip on unload) anyway. For the nozzle temperature: Thermistors have variations. You simply might change the thermistor to one bought by Prusa, as they have quality-checked the tollerance. Esp. if you have an original Prusa, you do not need different slicer settings for Original and Clone than. I like the Fysetc mk3s Clone a lot. Have two of them (and a selfmade clone and one original). Using the right e3d heatbreak and thermistor, all have same print quality on same settings. As Aliexpress has a "sale" about every 2 months, with collecting coins and coupons you can get the clone at extremly low prices. I payed 283€ for the Fysetc clone about 10 weeks ago (and 173€ for a Prusa Mini clone, by the way), using a lot of coupons. Even with buing an original e3d PE heatbreak, original thermistor, noctua fan, original PINDA (if you have problemes as I had on one of my clones), original Prusa PEI powdercoated spring steel (alltogether about 100€) and cost for the filament to print the parts you have a very low price under 400€ (including shipping and tax in Europe) compared to the about 800€ (incl. shipping) for the original Prusa mk3s - and get a clone practical identical to the original (exept for the capacitors inside the power supply). But in most cases, only the e3d PE heatbreak and thermistor (you can get them on 3djake for lower cost than directly from Prusa) and a cloned PEI powder coated sheet (from Aliexpress/Trianglelab, practicly identical in function and texture to the original) will be necassary (about 50€ altogether). In my case, only problem with cloned PINDA was auto-skrew-compensation did not work. But it is not necassary, as the mk3(s) do not need it - it was put into firmware for the mk2 with its sloppy frame. At the last sale also the bear edition was available from Fystec on Aliexpress. In Europe from European warehouse about 310€ (shipping and coupons compensated each other). With a much better frame for only 30€ more it realy a catch (normaly, the bear is an upgrade costing about 80-100€).
Thank you for your detailed comment, I planed to post today the unboxing and assembly related video but I think I will add your 4.1 bore heatbreak issue in this video because it seems a critical one that I not realized by myself.
@@UnrealApe de.aliexpress.com/item/33007698084.html At the moment there is no sale, so it cost a little more ( 27,35 - 2*1,75€ Coupons). You might wait for next sale (I think it will be black friday/cyber monday) to get down to 20€ or less. Or: de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001408986571.html about 18€. Its only one sided. But if you damage one side, by my experience the other side is not optimal flat in most cases anymore - so being one sided is no problem. They also have a version one side PEI powder coated and one smooth: de.aliexpress.com/item/4000137298652.html Do not forget to calibrate the PINDA Probe. Temperaturecalibration is quite necessary. I damaged one of my PEI powder coated beds after an temperature drop of 15°C in the envirement, starting a print a morning after having open the windows over night. Without PINDA being calibrated, the distance was leveled to low and the filament was pressed to much into the plate. Also I recommend doing a manual bed leveling (there is a octoprint plugin. You replace 8 of the spacers by screwing the screws with a locknut to the heated bed and screw them into the carrier directly (but of course by eyesight same distance as the spacer would do). Then octoprint does ABL and read measuring results and show you, how much to turn witch screw in witch direction to make the bed as flat as possible.
Clones like this make me really sad. 0 development, 0 innovations, just 1:1 clone. Taking everything from the open-source community, not giving anything back. They can cut the price a lot by not having to pay any developers, not providing support and using a bit cheaper components. They didn't even bother removing "Original" from the front LCD printed part.
The Original text was my fault, because I just printed the same parts that I had from my Original Prusa. I tried to balance it to highlight just the PRUSA text on it. The 3D printed parts are not part of the package. I was plain curious about the clone and at the time when I ordered it, the Original Prusa delivery time was over 8 Weeks (as the Prusa Mini now) and I needed the extra printing capacity earlier. In my conclusion I recommend the Original Prusa in the first case if you have the time to wait for it. I am not afraid that you won't get enough orders for your actual available production capacity. Keep up the good work!
@@Dombi3D Oh good to know. Though I checked the Aliexpress listing and they also have "Original" Prusa on all their product pictures. Don't get me wrong, I think you did stellar job on the video and the comparison, it was interesting to watch. And I totally get that the lead time can sometimes be a deal breaker. I'm just not a fan of these chinese companies that don't even try to do anything differently, they just use 1:1 firmware, hardware and that's it. We still have plenty orders anyway, but there are tons of other companies that do actual development and create wonderful machines, but won't succeeded, because their sales are taken away by clones like this.
@@TheMikolasZuza Thanks! You are right with the printed parts which are sold, and some of them even printed with PLA... Maybe I will be also one of that inventor/developer who will be riped off from the clone community, because I am working on several 3D printing related projects (from complete 3D printer build from scratch to 3d printer upgrades) that I will post soon. But we can not do so much against it. At least that was my conclusion when I started to check how Patents work. I put here a little teaser: One of my next video will be a pick and place extension for the Prusa MK3s printers which will make possible to automatically place magnets/NFC chips etc. into your 3D prints, Placeing SMD LEDs onto a PCB would not be a problem also (I maneged this task already). Installing this extension requires no additional wiring or what so ever. I am pretty curious what will be the reaction of the community for this, because I have not seen anything like that before. I spent already several months into this developement, hopefully not for nothing.
@@Dombi3D Wow that sounds cool, looking forward to it. As far as patents go, that really is a futile way to go about it. We really just have to keep pushing, so that they're always one step behind, and provide good QC and support, which is something they typically struggle with.
Its an interesting video. I suppose one could argue the Prusa has better customer service and you are also paying for that or Prusa is charging for it? The nice thing about clones is that they help keep competition healthy and pricing from going through the roof if the product is good.
Prusa of course does not charge for customer service and it's really helpful if you are a 3d printer noob. They assist you in the whole build process if you need them
@@ulaB while this is true, I don't think there is something wrong ethically by buying cheap clones. Prusa is open-sourcing their printers and everyone has the right to manufacture their own clones. I would even argue that these cheap clones are part of what Josef Prusa wants. Prusa wants everyone to have a 3d printer and this here basically is an affordable, very good 3D printer you can buy, if you don't have the money to buy a Prusa. If you have enough money, I think most people would happily go with the Prusa because they know that they will get quality from Prusa that they might not get from cheap clones.
@@doktormerlin I agree completely. I have been in the situation where I was not able to buy "the original" and got cloned parts instead. I was just stating another reason people always forget, besides support and quality :).
I bought a Prusa kit recently and it's a fantastic printer. It was more expensive than these clones and competitors like Ender 3, but the overall package is just superior to the others. Plus, it's not made in China.
Outstanding video. I wish it had existed when I originally purchased a clone from Fysetc. I later bought an MK3s kit from Prusa. The clone has worked fine, but the assembly was challenging. Too many of some screws and nuts, not enough of others, no 3mm filament for the extruder cable support, a few other things that I have long since forgotten about. Both of my printers get used a lot. If I prorate the additional cost of the Prusa against the savings for the clone - especially after the E3D hotend and fan upgrade, the savings in price is negligible. I completely agree. If this is your first build and you can afford it, buy a Prusa. You won't 2nd guess your decision later.
I know several people with clones, worked perfectly fine and saved a lot of money. Prusas are just way over expensive, and the myth how they are perfect is simply wrong. There are plenty of people with issues on their prusas.
Check out my other video also about the unboxing and assembly to get the full picture. I am also working on on the next video with IGUS and Misumi comparison and other upgrades for the clone.
Great video. I have ordered the clone mini and it’s fantastic. Prusa mini original will arrive in December. Prusa mk3s bear clone will arrive next week.
@@rabenklang7 Fystec. It´s ok. I have a few issues, but i can work around it. It´s just the selfcalibration which does not work completely correct. But i guess its because i upgraded to linearrails
I expect that every ball bearing (motors, slides, extruder, fans) in the clone will fail very quickly. If your time is worth anything, buy the Prusa, as he uses high quality Japanese bearings.
I bought one of these instead of the trianglelabs one thanks to this video.I just finished the assembly today with my own printed parts in PLA exept for the extruder and the board case wich are PETG. Definitelly buy your own M3 *8mm screws, this is NOT OPTIONAL. I almost ruin the Z motors because of that. The bearings I got were fine but you might get bad ones. It worked perfectly once assembled, didnt even got that weird upside down LCD cable problems. I didnt even needed to calibrate ther machine, not even the ESteps. I already have an Original prusa mini and print quality is identical. Honestly, its a great machine, I didnt expect it to work so well. Also is my first printer kit and it was super fun to build.
This is awesome video. Well done. Being a year later, I got to ask. Have you kept using both printers? If so how have they both held up? I am strongly considering getting the clone to add to my collection.
Really interesting, thanks for taking the time to go into so much detail on the comparison of the two printers. Would you set up separate printing profiles for a clone printer, given the different nozzle temperatures?
Thanks, I plan to use a micro swiss HSS nozzle with it which needs normaly +10˘C because of the worse heat conductivity so I think it will balance that temperature difference, and so I can use the original printing profiles. When it not works out I ordered original thermistors which would eliminate this problem and give the right temperautre values.
Yes it does. As you can see at 6:40, it goes to home and continue printing (I just cut the warm up cycle out from the video). You can read the LCD bottom line that both printer writes "Recovering print".
Why are the bed and extruder banging against the frame??? That cant be good right? Even if it is for calibration things will break if you keep on doing that?!
That is normal. Prusa has no end switches, they measure the current from the TMC motor drivers and when it hits the frame the current goes up and they know that there is the end. It is a pretty smart solution!
Nice explanation between the 2 printers, at home I have a MK3S and a mk2.5s printer. I was looking for some info of the fysect version but I couldn't get some clear answers until I stumbled upon this video ^^ good job!
I am currently working on the unboxing and assembly video. Stay tuned because I will give tips how could you build it even better than it comes with stock parts. I compared it with all stock parts build but new bearings and heatbrake would make it even better and safer.
You can watch my other videos, I am using them continuously without an issue, only thing that need to be calibrated is the temperature differences, but I think it is the same by original printers also.
Disgusting thief, intellectual and technical property. YT deletes videos when you haven't purchased songs, but quietly allows you to present the crime of theft.
Oh boy... That's noisy... I hope all printers aren't that noisy and that I can find one to run in an apartment building without getting broomsticks knocking the floor from below. :o
the prusa design is outdated. even with the clone price it's not worth it. there other better options from china like the artillery genius which is a much better printer for lower cost.
Does the clone take firmware updates from Prusaslicer just like an original? Half the value of the Prusa goes into software/firmware development, it's not just about the hardware. If the clone can't take Prusa's firmware and is dependent on some unknown Chinese maker for firmware updates, the clone really isn't 'cheaper'. At that point, I'd rather just recommend an Ender 3 for an entry level printer, at least you get Creality's support and tons of experience from multitudes of users.
Something that would be interesting, is if you would be willing to try to exchange just, oh, the fan and the hotend? It kindof looks a lot like they have the wrong thermistor values, and that the rpm sensor for the hotend cooling fan is missing. It's pretty cheap, and would be an interesting topic. I am waiting for my own clone (already own one original mk3) from another brand, so I am pretty excited to see just what I need to replace to get it to that point. Hats of to Prusa for making all the plans available and the design robust enough for a clone to be viable even with suboptimal parts! :)
For the fan the ALTFAN solution works, I will show it in my next video, For the thermistor a change would probably solve this issue, but first I will try out how is it with the HSS nozzle works, maybe it would fit perfectly because of its lower heat conductivity it needs normaly plusz 10-15°C over brass ones but the clone is already that much hoter. We will see.
I agree. To source all the parts for my prusa i3, including a 32bit board and mosfet, was $220 in the usa. That gave me a 220x220x220 build volume, oh and that included all prints and mods.
@@thepurpleaxe8024 It was really not. Maybe I will review the Mini also. If they send me one for review I will tell you that it was not purchased by me but got it. I despise people who are lying, and I won't be one of them. Never!
on my fysetc clone the z frame was bend around 6mm forward, and the LCD was defekt. replacing was additional 70€. Had to get the bearframe. A solid "meh".
Yeah the new shipping rules with extra tax changed the way of thinking about ordering from China. However some of their stores has warehouses in EU or USA to avoid those extra costs, but they have to fill up that warehouses also somehow, so at the end the customer has to pay for the extra costs. By the way with 400 USD is still a much cheaper alternative as the original one. 300 USD is a lot of money for most of us.
I came to the same result as you. I did the following changes to the clone: 1. original PRUSA fans 2. Original PRUSA Hotend (E3D V6) 3. Original steel sheets (smooth/coated) everything else remained untouched. Print results are equal as you mentioned. But for unknown reason, if I need something, I always start the original PRUSA, I don't know why, but I do :-)
A complete hotend is not needed - I only changed the heatbreak to an e3d PE (for potentially adding an MMU2s) and the thermistor to the Prusa one. The nozzle is also changed to a higher quality on, non-abrasive. For the PEI powdercoated sheet - of course ;-) It is definitly the best. The smooth one - my original smooth sheet is in its original package for more than 2 years now... The fans of my original prusa I changed end of last year - fans are not for eternaty anyways. So I keep the ones from the clone until they need a change anyway. But there is one change I strictly recommend: Replace the spacers of the bed (exept the one in the middle as reference) and use nylock nuts for the other eight screws instead of spacers. So you can manual level the bed using octoprint. I normaly do not use octopint (I installed it on a normal PC only for calibrating bed). With an improved manualy leveled bed, the first layer is improved a lot.
@@oleurgast730 actually, all my 6 printers got E3DV6 hotends, so I had them „in stock“. if they are assambled as intructed by E3D WIKI, they never ever make trouble. At least for the last 6 years
@@frankvonthienen3862 Of course the do not make trouble - but there are two versions. The heatbreak for Prusa has a special design, to form the tip. The normal e3d hotends do not have it. You mostly will not have any problems, exept if you add an MMU2. But you won't have problems with the cloned hotend either, if you only change the heatbreak to an e3d heatbreak in PrusaEdition.
my OPi3mks3 was a breeeeeze compared that to my self tweaked CR10 and oth er low costs manufactures , the prusa is so hands off , th ecr priners are tweakit and get good results. but of I want reliability and a quality print , i take the Prusa I3 MKs3 if I need a quick print that has a 90-% succes rate I take the modified CR10 Mini .6 nozzle I f I need a BIG print the cr10 50 with its super volcano 1.2 I needed to modify the Cr10 te be quiet with new mainbaord an stepper as well as a whole new set of new fans the I3 is great from the box if used under 100mm/s for the noise of the rails
I already have a resin printer but also wanted a FDM for larger prints and was thinking about the Prusa until I found this video. Thank you! I will be ordering it as soon as I have time to build it!
Hi, what firmware version are you running? I updated to the latest MK3S firmware and the filament sensor has stopped working. If I use a different firmware (like the one for the MK3) it recognises the sensor and works ok but at the same time it's not the correct firmware. Thanks
you didn't talk about the build... the prusa took me 8.5 hours while a fulgertech 2020 took 19 hours... the prusa took another 1-2 hours to set up and calibrate while the fulgertec took days and days ... and works but never worked anywhere near as well as the prusa. I just got my prusa but I say it is worth every penny!
You have deserved a like I RESPECT RUclipsRS WHO PURCHASE THE ITEMS THEMSELF just one thing i do not understand what this item is different from the others concerning price i much higher then the other options 3d printers
You're aware that the Prusa is open source and the designs are freely available? You can build one yourself. Just download the CAD files and do it. It's a clone.
How much print time did you have on the Prusa before you purchased the clone and did the test? I hear issues that sound like bearing issues associated with not being lubed sufficiently on the Prusa.
The frame of Fysetc-Clone does not have the "Prusa" sign on the top. The plastc parts you print yourself. The mk3s is fully open-source, so you get the full design including the STL with "Original Prusa" from github and from the prusa site. But there are also stl with blank display cases available. Also with Prusa Slicer it is quite easy to remove the "Original" and emboss a "Cloned" instead. I did this on my 3 Prusa Mini (but not on my mk3s clones now). But anyway: There is a line above the "original". Mathematicly a line about something is a logical "NOT". So Prusa´s original design of the "Original Prusa" display actually says "NOT original Prusa" to all mathematicans and engeneers... So actually the clone is labeled correct and the original is labeled wrong from factory ;-)
One question, how is the clone performing with other more demanding filaments, like ABS/ASA, Nylon, etc. That's where the prusa normally works better than the other choices in the market...
These videos are excellent. They are concise and focus on the things that matter. I'm disappointed you haven't followed up as you mentioned, such as with the results of replacing the bearings. I'm going to try a FYSETC clone and the main thing I'm concerned with is which components I should replace at the start. I'd also be interested in knowing if the FYSETC kits have changed over the last year or two.
I have a second video about this topic. The bearings related I have not managed to publish, but I am using on Z axis IGUS polymer bearings and on the X and Y IKO Japan bearings. I have even posted links in the description. Since then, I have no purchased new modules, so I can not tell you how their quality changed.
Awsome video Dombi, very thought trough one and highly informative as well. Might be a silly question but what type of kit did you order the "Clone MK3S kit" or the "Clone MK3S bear kit"?
Thanks! The simple one. The bear version comes with an aluminium extrusion frame which is theoretically more stiffer but I had no problem with the original concept so I stayed with it. Bear kit needs also different 3d printed parts and I found more handy to print out the original parts.
@@Dombi3D Thank you for the answer, really like your other informative videos too! Atom jó és hasznos videók, végre egy informatív és hasznos csatorna a sok béna magyar között! :)
Hi, I printed it with my original Prusa. I am working on my 3D printing farm so I could also print for demand but it is not so pretty yet. However it works but I need to adjust the price calculation. If you interested: www.dombi3d.de
@@Dombi3D now i have print the old stile box for einsy..whitout support for raspberry zero... and i wait the iko bearing from courier before finish all assembly...
Yes they are, I am just sat down to order one MMU2S clone also to check what they can do. Probably will be another video topic. PS.: Nice to see your comment here :)
Under my first link you can choose that option also :) I have also some doubts, but I like experimenting. However it will be probably challanging because the original prusa uses a special heatbrake (at the melt zone it has 2 mm diameter instead of 2.2 mm) for the MMU2S setup, but if I can not make it work without it then I just order that part later.
I got mine a week ago. Delivery was really fast. But imho, you dont save that much. The plastic parts take a long time to print. And the cables are mostly insulated with cheap plastic. Especially the ones going to the headbed. Really brittle and stiff. I replaced most of the cables, because i fear my house could be burned down by shorting cables because of broken cable insulations. Would not recommend. PLEASE: Replace these cables if you buy this printer. It is a real fire hazard, if you ask me.
So, if I understand correctly, the only real problem is the nozzle cooling fan. Is this responsible for the high temperatures? Could the quick fix be to replace that fan with one like in the original Prusa? What parts 'need' to be modded/replaced to make it really trouble-free? Great review by the way. I'm always a bit afraid of clone machines from China. Sometimes they cut too many corners, because the person making the clone doesn't really understand why the OEM choose certain parts. This one seems to be made with a bit more effort, judging by the results.
The high temperature is caused by the different thermistor type. If you want to get rid of it I would buy the original e3d thermistor because that is what programmed by the EinsyBoard. (they have probably little bit different voltage levels for different temperautres). The nozzle cooling fan just helps you to cool back the material over the melting zone to keep the filament solid on the top part of the heatbreak. I made another video also on this topic where I speak about the upgrade parts. Check it out.
After three 3DBenchies, my printer has stopped completely. I suspect that the extruder is completely clogged, and I don't know what to do. I try to insert the filament, but after a little while it just stops and starts to jump on the extruder gears.
@@Dombi3D ... no :) I’ll get a full metal heatbreak, I’ve got a MK2 heatsink spare laying around and a proper E3D nozzle. If it works, I’ll paypal you a cookie! Have a subscribe in the meantime.
@@Dombi3D Following has been done so far: - Genuine MISUMI bearings - Genuine MK3s+ upgrade - Genuine heatblock, nozzle, heatsink and heatbreak - Genuine removable heatbed At this point it’s working like it should. I’m still 150-200$ under the price of what a new Prusa costs. Had I know that, I would probably not bought a clone to begin with. To pay respect to Prusa, I’ve bought filament and parts from them, as well as a spanking new genuine Mini+ that should arrive within the next month or so.
The only thing on my bear i3 mk3s clone that is as on the original is the BT gears I found after well over 3000h printing that my triangleab ones liked to chew through filament way too much, but still was good for the 1st few hundred hours i print only with PETG, whereas the BT gears have been shaped correctly and hardened.
I do not know yet the long term quality of the clone but I had no issues till now after 2.5 kg PETG. The new ones I build more robust (misumi/IGUS bearings, Micro Swiss full metal heatbrake and HSS nozzle, Nylock mod, Gates belt). I think they will hold for a while. We will see.
What is the brand of your Stepper motors? I just built the BluRoll kit and my belt tension is super high 160's and even with a very loose belt will not get to the 200's. After some searching, some mentioned it might be a voltage issue with the steppers or resistance with the bearings. This is my first printer but the bearings seem to be moving well. Any suggestions?
@@dr3wst3r1 The good point in this that if the bearings are little bit tighter than it wont make so much ghosting. Crash detection is a nice feature but it was triggered till now once for me during a 2km filament print time so I would say it is not a big lost.
Eh, I see it as Prusa gives so much back to the community so I'd rather support them over a Chinese company pumping out clones with no innovation.
Yea and all their software they develop, the filament they make, paying their employees first world wages and having 24/7 support.
Since then I have just found out that there is a hidden easter-egg "Experimental" menu in the new Prusa 3.9.1 Firmware where you can set up an "ALTFAN" (alternative fan option, because of the Noctua supply shortage the original Prusa had to deliver 3D printers with other fans also) which slows down the nozzle fan RPM and at the same time it makes the 3D printer more quiet. I will make a short video about it, but you can also try it out when you go under Settings -> HW setup and roll down to the bottom and push the knob around 3s. After it the new menu will pop up at the very bottom. Could be that it wont make any change first just after you restarted the printer. Tell me if you managed it.
Will slow down the fan RPM. That means there will be less cooling? Or is this option for the Clone with 3000rpm more in your Video?
@@extrutim This option is good for 3 wire fans for the Clone to make it more silent.
We can try that feature to clone prusa with out heat problems?
@@gorilasfpv4600 I have not tried yet but seems OK for me.
I recently bought the Fysetc clone and tried the altfan option. It reduced the speed from around 7200 to 2800, which is even 1200rpm lower than the original noctua one.
Combined with the seemingly lower efficiency, I think this might possibly lead to the heatcreep issue territory.
teach me the "clap" assembling :) hehe
Just follow along with the video...
Glad to see your good results with your Fysetc clone, definitely a testamant to just how polished the MK3S is as a design. I own two clones, one from Trianglelab and another from Blurolls, as well as a genuine kit from Prusa Research. I am planning on adding at least a Fysetc one as well as a colored Sealand/Blurolls frame kit to my farm. Long as you understand that you may have to replace some parts on your own they'll assemble just fine. That said, if I hadn't bought my genuine Prusa first, I would've never known what to check for on my clones to make sure everything was being assembled correctly. Run Sunon fans if you can from the start and definitely just print the PETG parts yourself as even Prusa's own farm parts leave a bit to be desired. And if you can, do Paul's silicone bed mod to ensure a super flat bed, genuine or clone. It's basically the nylock mod but better. Also stock up on those POM/Delrin leadscrew nuts and linear bearings, especially the leadscrew nuts if you're prone to destroying them like me.
In my experience I ended up liking my clones better just cause I knew what parts I was throwing into them and the fact support was on me. I also had a pretty bad experience with Prusa Support that led to me lone wolfing my genuine MK3S. My Trianglelab clone has more hours printing than even my genuine MK3S and I had the genuine one the longest so make of that what you will.
I did hear the Fysetc clone ships with a PTFE 4.1 bore hotend which if that's the case is just plain stupid. I am running Trianglelab's pre assembled V6 clone specifically for the MK3S on all my kits and as far as I know they are all metal from factory.
For those saying the clones rip off Prusa Research, well the design is open source and the license specifically allows clones like these to be sold legally.
Overall, great video and I am interested to see if you'll be reviewing the Bear frame clones or other vendor's clone kits such as Trianglelab and Blurolls/Sealand in the future!
You made me curious with this bed "Paul's silicone bed mod" where can I find info about it?
@@Dombi3D github.com/PaulGameDev/PrusaMK3_Silicone_Leveling/blob/master/PrusaMK3_Silicone-Leveling-Jig-ThinBlade.stl
forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles/prusa-mini-silicone-bed-leveling-mod/
For the jig and a comparable guide except done on a Prusa mini, process is very similar to doing the nylock mod though on the MK3S.
I don't think he's finished the guide yet but it installs similarly like the famous nylock mod. Only difference is you cut 3mm ID 7-8mm OD silicone car vacuum tubing to act as the new standoffs.
Basically take off the bed, remove all the metal spacers except the one in the middle and replace them with the tubing cut with the jig. Carefully reassemble the bed so that it's being screwed in evenly and the silicone is compressed to the height of the old spacers. Once that is done fire up octoprint or pronterface and run G80, let that finish probing and then run G81 to get the absolute values. Once that is done throw the values in to this site
pcboy.github.io/g81_relative/
and it'll convert it and tell you which screws to turn to raise or lower the bed. Once you get it to about 0.05 deviation you can start to level it at the bed temps you normally print at to get it super flat. When it gets to about 0.02-0.03 deviation it's good enough and the PINDA will take care of any remaining deviation. Paul recommends releveling after a week to account for the silicone settling in.
Having done it to one of my clones I can honestly say it's worth the trouble but if your leveling is fine with the metal spacers I wouldn't mess with it.
Sorry for the long write up and if anything is unclear. Paul is active on discord, mainly Prusa's and 602 and if you need more info I can link you to those servers.
Thanks for the explanation. It looks really interesting. I have the feeling that the normal nylock mod is more stable but maybe I will give a try to this version also.
@@Dombi3D No problem! And that would be awesome if you ended up trying both mods!
I have this clone and its awesome.
Mad assembly skills there. Well, editing skills.
Thank you for the side by side comparison of the two printers.
Watching your content is very enjoyable, your profromance is outstanding
Suspect the faste fan makes the temp sensor have an offset on the clone. That would explain a lot of the things seen together with the voltage levels. Would be cool to see the voltage measured by a separate instrument.
i always thought the Prusa i3s were open source so theres no clones or fakes. i built my prusa i3 MK3s from parts i sourced from the internet no kit, and it works just as good as one built by Prusa
I don't mind paying for more for an original prusa. But man their lead times are horrible. If you want to pay more you expect great service but also decent shipping times. Your review makes it tempting to go for such a clone.
Sorry, you missed the most impotant security issue on the clone. Fysetc uses a 4.1 bore heatbreak, so the tube inside the hotend contacts the nozzle. This is extremly dangerous, as the original Prusa has an all-metal heatbreak - so Prusas firmware allows up to 295°C mozzle temp - a temperature where PTFE already degrades into toxid fumes. Simply one wrong click (preheat accidently for Polycarbonate in the menu) needed...
So never ever use the heatbreak delivered with the kit. Always order an all-metal heatbreak - and use it instead of the 4.1bore one. Of course you can alternativly change the firmware (but if next upgrade from Prusa comes, do not forget modifying it again). (Same problem with the Prusa Mini Clone by Fysetc, by the way - I recommend the Bondtech heatbreak there)
Of course, if you plan on adding an MMU2s / MMU2s-Clone later, you should buy an e3d heatbreak in Prusa Edition (has a special inside design for forming the filament-tip on unload) anyway.
For the nozzle temperature: Thermistors have variations. You simply might change the thermistor to one bought by Prusa, as they have quality-checked the tollerance. Esp. if you have an original Prusa, you do not need different slicer settings for Original and Clone than.
I like the Fysetc mk3s Clone a lot. Have two of them (and a selfmade clone and one original). Using the right e3d heatbreak and thermistor, all have same print quality on same settings.
As Aliexpress has a "sale" about every 2 months, with collecting coins and coupons you can get the clone at extremly low prices. I payed 283€ for the Fysetc clone about 10 weeks ago (and 173€ for a Prusa Mini clone, by the way), using a lot of coupons. Even with buing an original e3d PE heatbreak, original thermistor, noctua fan, original PINDA (if you have problemes as I had on one of my clones), original Prusa PEI powdercoated spring steel (alltogether about 100€) and cost for the filament to print the parts you have a very low price under 400€ (including shipping and tax in Europe) compared to the about 800€ (incl. shipping) for the original Prusa mk3s - and get a clone practical identical to the original (exept for the capacitors inside the power supply). But in most cases, only the e3d PE heatbreak and thermistor (you can get them on 3djake for lower cost than directly from Prusa) and a cloned PEI powder coated sheet (from Aliexpress/Trianglelab, practicly identical in function and texture to the original) will be necassary (about 50€ altogether). In my case, only problem with cloned PINDA was auto-skrew-compensation did not work. But it is not necassary, as the mk3(s) do not need it - it was put into firmware for the mk2 with its sloppy frame.
At the last sale also the bear edition was available from Fystec on Aliexpress. In Europe from European warehouse about 310€ (shipping and coupons compensated each other). With a much better frame for only 30€ more it realy a catch (normaly, the bear is an upgrade costing about 80-100€).
Thank you for your detailed comment, I planed to post today the unboxing and assembly related video but I think I will add your 4.1 bore heatbreak issue in this video because it seems a critical one that I not realized by myself.
Link to the cloned PEI power coated sheet?
@@UnrealApe de.aliexpress.com/item/33007698084.html At the moment there is no sale, so it cost a little more ( 27,35 - 2*1,75€ Coupons). You might wait for next sale (I think it will be black friday/cyber monday) to get down to 20€ or less.
Or:
de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001408986571.html about 18€. Its only one sided. But if you damage one side, by my experience the other side is not optimal flat in most cases anymore - so being one sided is no problem.
They also have a version one side PEI powder coated and one smooth:
de.aliexpress.com/item/4000137298652.html
Do not forget to calibrate the PINDA Probe. Temperaturecalibration is quite necessary. I damaged one of my PEI powder coated beds after an temperature drop of 15°C in the envirement, starting a print a morning after having open the windows over night. Without PINDA being calibrated, the distance was leveled to low and the filament was pressed to much into the plate. Also I recommend doing a manual bed leveling (there is a octoprint plugin. You replace 8 of the spacers by screwing the screws with a locknut to the heated bed and screw them into the carrier directly (but of course by eyesight same distance as the spacer would do). Then octoprint does ABL and read measuring results and show you, how much to turn witch screw in witch direction to make the bed as flat as possible.
Clones like this make me really sad. 0 development, 0 innovations, just 1:1 clone. Taking everything from the open-source community, not giving anything back.
They can cut the price a lot by not having to pay any developers, not providing support and using a bit cheaper components.
They didn't even bother removing "Original" from the front LCD printed part.
The Original text was my fault, because I just printed the same parts that I had from my Original Prusa. I tried to balance it to highlight just the PRUSA text on it. The 3D printed parts are not part of the package. I was plain curious about the clone and at the time when I ordered it, the Original Prusa delivery time was over 8 Weeks (as the Prusa Mini now) and I needed the extra printing capacity earlier. In my conclusion I recommend the Original Prusa in the first case if you have the time to wait for it. I am not afraid that you won't get enough orders for your actual available production capacity. Keep up the good work!
@@Dombi3D Oh good to know. Though I checked the Aliexpress listing and they also have "Original" Prusa on all their product pictures.
Don't get me wrong, I think you did stellar job on the video and the comparison, it was interesting to watch.
And I totally get that the lead time can sometimes be a deal breaker. I'm just not a fan of these chinese companies that don't even try to do anything differently, they just use 1:1 firmware, hardware and that's it. We still have plenty orders anyway, but there are tons of other companies that do actual development and create wonderful machines, but won't succeeded, because their sales are taken away by clones like this.
@@TheMikolasZuza Thanks! You are right with the printed parts which are sold, and some of them even printed with PLA... Maybe I will be also one of that inventor/developer who will be riped off from the clone community, because I am working on several 3D printing related projects (from complete 3D printer build from scratch to 3d printer upgrades) that I will post soon. But we can not do so much against it. At least that was my conclusion when I started to check how Patents work.
I put here a little teaser: One of my next video will be a pick and place extension for the Prusa MK3s printers which will make possible to automatically place magnets/NFC chips etc. into your 3D prints, Placeing SMD LEDs onto a PCB would not be a problem also (I maneged this task already). Installing this extension requires no additional wiring or what so ever. I am pretty curious what will be the reaction of the community for this, because I have not seen anything like that before. I spent already several months into this developement, hopefully not for nothing.
@@Dombi3D Wow that sounds cool, looking forward to it.
As far as patents go, that really is a futile way to go about it. We really just have to keep pushing, so that they're always one step behind, and provide good QC and support, which is something they typically struggle with.
Its an interesting video. I suppose one could argue the Prusa has better customer service and you are also paying for that or Prusa is charging for it? The nice thing about clones is that they help keep competition healthy and pricing from going through the roof if the product is good.
Prusa of course does not charge for customer service and it's really helpful if you are a 3d printer noob. They assist you in the whole build process if you need them
One important thing you pay for is the research and inventing Prusa is doing. If you buy cheap clones, you are taking away from that money pool.
@@ulaB while this is true, I don't think there is something wrong ethically by buying cheap clones. Prusa is open-sourcing their printers and everyone has the right to manufacture their own clones. I would even argue that these cheap clones are part of what Josef Prusa wants. Prusa wants everyone to have a 3d printer and this here basically is an affordable, very good 3D printer you can buy, if you don't have the money to buy a Prusa. If you have enough money, I think most people would happily go with the Prusa because they know that they will get quality from Prusa that they might not get from cheap clones.
@@doktormerlin I agree completely. I have been in the situation where I was not able to buy "the original" and got cloned parts instead. I was just stating another reason people always forget, besides support and quality :).
I bought a Prusa kit recently and it's a fantastic printer. It was more expensive than these clones and competitors like Ender 3, but the overall package is just superior to the others. Plus, it's not made in China.
Outstanding video. I wish it had existed when I originally purchased a clone from Fysetc. I later bought an MK3s kit from Prusa. The clone has worked fine, but the assembly was challenging. Too many of some screws and nuts, not enough of others, no 3mm filament for the extruder cable support, a few other things that I have long since forgotten about. Both of my printers get used a lot. If I prorate the additional cost of the Prusa against the savings for the clone - especially after the E3D hotend and fan upgrade, the savings in price is negligible.
I completely agree. If this is your first build and you can afford it, buy a Prusa. You won't 2nd guess your decision later.
I know several people with clones, worked perfectly fine and saved a lot of money. Prusas are just way over expensive, and the myth how they are perfect is simply wrong. There are plenty of people with issues on their prusas.
Thanks for this. This might be the thing that tips me over the edge.
Check out my other video also about the unboxing and assembly to get the full picture. I am also working on on the next video with IGUS and Misumi comparison and other upgrades for the clone.
Great video. I have ordered the clone mini and it’s fantastic. Prusa mini original will arrive in December.
Prusa mk3s bear clone will arrive next week.
And what are your experiences with the clone. Did everything work?
which mk3s bear clone did you get, are you happy with it?
@@rabenklang7 Fystec. It´s ok. I have a few issues, but i can work around it. It´s just the selfcalibration which does not work completely correct. But i guess its because i upgraded to linearrails
And to think just the other day I was thinking about getting another Prusa...but now I might two or three of these!! Tyvm. Sub’d.
La joda es que si el tipo renuncia, queda la milica...
I expect that every ball bearing (motors, slides, extruder, fans) in the clone will fail very quickly. If your time is worth anything, buy the Prusa, as he uses high quality Japanese bearings.
I bought one of these instead of the trianglelabs one thanks to this video.I just finished the assembly today with my own printed parts in PLA exept for the extruder and the board case wich are PETG. Definitelly buy your own M3 *8mm screws, this is NOT OPTIONAL. I almost ruin the Z motors because of that.
The bearings I got were fine but you might get bad ones.
It worked perfectly once assembled, didnt even got that weird upside down LCD cable problems.
I didnt even needed to calibrate ther machine, not even the ESteps.
I already have an Original prusa mini and print quality is identical.
Honestly, its a great machine, I didnt expect it to work so well. Also is my first printer kit and it was super fun to build.
I had the same feeling :) That is why I bought 6 more :) IKO bearings have arrived today. So I will be not bored in the next weeks.
@@Dombi3D How many IKO bearings did you have to order?
@@WrathOfVaz min 6 (3 X-axis, 3 Y-axis) max 10 (+4 for Z-axis) for each printer.
This is awesome video. Well done.
Being a year later, I got to ask. Have you kept using both printers? If so how have they both held up? I am strongly considering getting the clone to add to my collection.
Been using a FYSTEC clone for 3 years now, no issues. The only parts that died were the PINDA probe, extruder heat cartridge and thermosistor.
Really interesting, thanks for taking the time to go into so much detail on the comparison of the two printers. Would you set up separate printing profiles for a clone printer, given the different nozzle temperatures?
Thanks, I plan to use a micro swiss HSS nozzle with it which needs normaly +10˘C because of the worse heat conductivity so I think it will balance that temperature difference, and so I can use the original printing profiles. When it not works out I ordered original thermistors which would eliminate this problem and give the right temperautre values.
@dombi3d First of all, thanks for your awesome Video! One question: can you tell me if the print after power loss feature is working on your clone?
Yes it does. As you can see at 6:40, it goes to home and continue printing (I just cut the warm up cycle out from the video). You can read the LCD bottom line that both printer writes "Recovering print".
I jumped to conclusion 🤪
Hi,
many thanks for your work.
Your video helps very well.
Unfortunatly the coupon code ist not runnig :-(
Why are the bed and extruder banging against the frame??? That cant be good right? Even if it is for calibration things will break if you keep on doing that?!
That is normal. Prusa has no end switches, they measure the current from the TMC motor drivers and when it hits the frame the current goes up and they know that there is the end. It is a pretty smart solution!
@@Dombi3D Yea but wont this damage the frame or components over time? It seemd to be banging it pritty hard :P
@@wouter8596 it will not damage it
Nice explanation between the 2 printers, at home I have a MK3S and a mk2.5s printer. I was looking for some info of the fysect version but I couldn't get some clear answers until I stumbled upon this video ^^ good job!
I am currently working on the unboxing and assembly video. Stay tuned because I will give tips how could you build it even better than it comes with stock parts. I compared it with all stock parts build but new bearings and heatbrake would make it even better and safer.
Well that sure stuffs it to the crazy Prusa prices eh? :-)
Any update on your clone? Is it still working and how has it faired compared to the original since you have been using it?
You can watch my other videos, I am using them continuously without an issue, only thing that need to be calibrated is the temperature differences, but I think it is the same by original printers also.
Is it compatible with mmu2s
Yes it is. MMU2S clone also exists
can not decide which one to buy, so tempting!
I wish they had called it something else like "unoriginal prusa clone" because I would buy it. I'm not going to support infringement.
Disgusting thief, intellectual and technical property. YT deletes videos when you haven't purchased songs, but quietly allows you to present the crime of theft.
Oh boy... That's noisy... I hope all printers aren't that noisy and that I can find one to run in an apartment building without getting broomsticks knocking the floor from below. :o
the prusa design is outdated. even with the clone price it's not worth it. there other better options from china like the artillery genius which is a much better printer for lower cost.
I am curious what will bring the new XL/MK4 version.
Diffecrence between clone and original only Prusa marks and support. Clone says you , you by yourself
Does the clone take firmware updates from Prusaslicer just like an original? Half the value of the Prusa goes into software/firmware development, it's not just about the hardware. If the clone can't take Prusa's firmware and is dependent on some unknown Chinese maker for firmware updates, the clone really isn't 'cheaper'. At that point, I'd rather just recommend an Ender 3 for an entry level printer, at least you get Creality's support and tons of experience from multitudes of users.
I have a Fysetc MK3S clone myself. It runs the official Prusa firmware
Agent Smith of 3D printers? You remind me of Hugo Weaving in 1st Matrix movie 😎
Something that would be interesting, is if you would be willing to try to exchange just, oh, the fan and the hotend?
It kindof looks a lot like they have the wrong thermistor values, and that the rpm sensor for the hotend cooling fan is missing.
It's pretty cheap, and would be an interesting topic.
I am waiting for my own clone (already own one original mk3) from another brand, so I am pretty excited to see just what I need to replace to get it to that point.
Hats of to Prusa for making all the plans available and the design robust enough for a clone to be viable even with suboptimal parts! :)
For the fan the ALTFAN solution works, I will show it in my next video, For the thermistor a change would probably solve this issue, but first I will try out how is it with the HSS nozzle works, maybe it would fit perfectly because of its lower heat conductivity it needs normaly plusz 10-15°C over brass ones but the clone is already that much hoter. We will see.
How does the fytec texture build plate compare to the genuine? Is the thickness the same?
Sorry, but isn't the chinese copy like...illegal?
Another proof that PRUSA is waaaaay overpriced…
I still don’t get why a prusa costs the amount they charge.
@@RoofusKit
3D printing patents have expired so Prusa hasn’t exactly invented anything.
I agree. To source all the parts for my prusa i3, including a 32bit board and mosfet, was $220 in the usa. That gave me a 220x220x220 build volume, oh and that included all prints and mods.
que pavada, igualmente buen video!
after all this time ive only just known what that hole is for in the benchy lol
Has anyone tried this printer with the new Co Print Multi-Filament?
Excellent work. Very thorough and informative. Would have liked to hear your conclusions on print quality a bit more in depth.
T-shirt shows a bias in the judgement
My favourite colour 😊
😂😂😂 that's what I thought, When he said, "Not Sponsored".
@@thepurpleaxe8024 It was really not. Maybe I will review the Mini also. If they send me one for review I will tell you that it was not purchased by me but got it. I despise people who are lying, and I won't be one of them. Never!
@@Dombi3D I know, we're just kidding, I ordered one Today, I'm so impressed by the performance. And I love your content with quality ❤️.
on my fysetc clone the z frame was bend around 6mm forward, and the LCD was defekt. replacing was additional 70€.
Had to get the bearframe.
A solid "meh".
About 400.00 US with shipping for Clone without printed parts just an F.Y.I as of 10/5/21
Yeah the new shipping rules with extra tax changed the way of thinking about ordering from China. However some of their stores has warehouses in EU or USA to avoid those extra costs, but they have to fill up that warehouses also somehow, so at the end the customer has to pay for the extra costs. By the way with 400 USD is still a much cheaper alternative as the original one. 300 USD is a lot of money for most of us.
I came to the same result as you.
I did the following changes to the clone:
1. original PRUSA fans
2. Original PRUSA Hotend (E3D V6)
3. Original steel sheets (smooth/coated)
everything else remained untouched.
Print results are equal as you mentioned.
But for unknown reason, if I need something, I always start the original PRUSA, I don't know why, but I do :-)
A complete hotend is not needed - I only changed the heatbreak to an e3d PE (for potentially adding an MMU2s) and the thermistor to the Prusa one. The nozzle is also changed to a higher quality on, non-abrasive.
For the PEI powdercoated sheet - of course ;-) It is definitly the best. The smooth one - my original smooth sheet is in its original package for more than 2 years now... The fans of my original prusa I changed end of last year - fans are not for eternaty anyways. So I keep the ones from the clone until they need a change anyway.
But there is one change I strictly recommend: Replace the spacers of the bed (exept the one in the middle as reference) and use nylock nuts for the other eight screws instead of spacers. So you can manual level the bed using octoprint. I normaly do not use octopint (I installed it on a normal PC only for calibrating bed). With an improved manualy leveled bed, the first layer is improved a lot.
@@oleurgast730 actually, all my 6 printers got E3DV6 hotends, so I had them „in stock“.
if they are assambled as intructed by E3D WIKI, they never ever make trouble. At least for the last 6 years
@@frankvonthienen3862 Of course the do not make trouble - but there are two versions. The heatbreak for Prusa has a special design, to form the tip. The normal e3d hotends do not have it.
You mostly will not have any problems, exept if you add an MMU2.
But you won't have problems with the cloned hotend either, if you only change the heatbreak to an e3d heatbreak in PrusaEdition.
What you fysetc clone mk3s einsy rambo version ?
1.0a as far as I remember
my OPi3mks3 was a breeeeeze
compared that to my self tweaked CR10 and oth er low costs manufactures , the prusa is so hands off , th ecr priners are tweakit and get good results.
but of I want reliability and a quality print , i take the Prusa I3 MKs3
if I need a quick print that has a 90-% succes rate I take the modified CR10 Mini .6 nozzle
I f I need a BIG print the cr10 50 with its super volcano 1.2
I needed to modify the Cr10 te be quiet with new mainbaord an stepper as well as a whole new set of new fans
the I3 is great from the box if used under 100mm/s for the noise of the rails
Seriously? They didn't even remove the "ORIGINAL PRUSA" from the models? :P
I already have a resin printer but also wanted a FDM for larger prints and was thinking about the Prusa until I found this video. Thank you! I will be ordering it as soon as I have time to build it!
Hi, which one did you purchased?
I'm skeptical about those temp readings being accurate.
Where may I find a detailed step by step video on wiring and connecting the clone einsy motherboard?
it is the same as the original, you can follow the original instructions
Hi, what firmware version are you running? I updated to the latest MK3S firmware and the filament sensor has stopped working. If I use a different firmware (like the one for the MK3) it recognises the sensor and works ok but at the same time it's not the correct firmware. Thanks
Cool review, thanks!
Support innovation, not imitation.
4:05 Dancing intensifies
XD
you didn't talk about the build... the prusa took me 8.5 hours while a fulgertech 2020 took 19 hours... the prusa took another 1-2 hours to set up and calibrate while the fulgertec took days and days ... and works but never worked anywhere near as well as the prusa. I just got my prusa but I say it is worth every penny!
I have another video also where I speak about these aspects. Check out on my channel!
0:04 voice crack ;D
OMG is that what the hole on the back of the benchy is for!?
You have deserved a like I RESPECT RUclipsRS WHO PURCHASE THE ITEMS THEMSELF just one thing i do not understand what this item is different from the others concerning price i much higher then the other options 3d printers
Thanks! If you mean other brand printers, then simple the reliability and printing quality which makes the difference for me.
SUS 7:28
7:27 SUS!
Good job
That isn't a clone, it's a counterfeit.
You're aware that the Prusa is open source and the designs are freely available? You can build one yourself. Just download the CAD files and do it. It's a clone.
Having an issue with my Fystec. The new firmware is nonresponsive. I had to downgrade to the last firmware. Is there a fix?
Which Firmware ?
I have updated all of my printers to the 3.10.0 version and they are working fine.
How much print time did you have on the Prusa before you purchased the clone and did the test? I hear issues that sound like bearing issues associated with not being lubed sufficiently on the Prusa.
I had around 1000 hours in my original Prusa at that time. I am using silicone lube for the bearings.
next time keep microphone on the same side of either machine to get a more accurate difference ;)
You’re not supposed to do that calibration with the spring steel sheet on
$100 shipping fee to Canada for the clone. Awesome.
Many thanks! Perfect testing setup. Your results fits to our experiences with Prusa clones in our Maker space.
It's interesting that they copied the bad features too, like the zipties holding structural parts
I am working on the IGUS bearing version where I use for the bed 3d printed holding clamps. Stay tuned!
How can a clone still sport an original Prusa nameplate?
I have just painted the Prusa text and not the original because of it.
The frame of Fysetc-Clone does not have the "Prusa" sign on the top. The plastc parts you print yourself. The mk3s is fully open-source, so you get the full design including the STL with "Original Prusa" from github and from the prusa site. But there are also stl with blank display cases available. Also with Prusa Slicer it is quite easy to remove the "Original" and emboss a "Cloned" instead. I did this on my 3 Prusa Mini (but not on my mk3s clones now).
But anyway: There is a line above the "original". Mathematicly a line about something is a logical "NOT". So Prusa´s original design of the "Original Prusa" display actually says "NOT original Prusa" to all mathematicans and engeneers... So actually the clone is labeled correct and the original is labeled wrong from factory ;-)
One question, how is the clone performing with other more demanding filaments, like ABS/ASA, Nylon, etc.
That's where the prusa normally works better than the other choices in the market...
I printed ASA and ABS with it with no issues. (With full metal hotend)
These videos are excellent. They are concise and focus on the things that matter. I'm disappointed you haven't followed up as you mentioned, such as with the results of replacing the bearings. I'm going to try a FYSETC clone and the main thing I'm concerned with is which components I should replace at the start. I'd also be interested in knowing if the FYSETC kits have changed over the last year or two.
I have a second video about this topic.
The bearings related I have not managed to publish, but I am using on Z axis IGUS polymer bearings and on the X and Y IKO Japan bearings. I have even posted links in the description. Since then, I have no purchased new modules, so I can not tell you how their quality changed.
Awsome video Dombi, very thought trough one and highly informative as well. Might be a silly question but what type of kit did you order the "Clone MK3S kit" or the "Clone MK3S bear kit"?
Thanks! The simple one. The bear version comes with an aluminium extrusion frame which is theoretically more stiffer but I had no problem with the original concept so I stayed with it. Bear kit needs also different 3d printed parts and I found more handy to print out the original parts.
@@Dombi3D Thank you for the answer, really like your other informative videos too! Atom jó és hasznos videók, végre egy informatív és hasznos csatorna a sok béna magyar között! :)
@@Dombi3D So the kit comes without the plastic parts, I assume. But: Which other parts are missing in the kit for a full printer? Ty!
@@elmariachi5133 Check out my other unboxing video. You will see what is in the box exactly and which upgrades do I recommend.
@@Dombi3D Thanks!
merci pour la vidéo , au top !!!!!!!
Very professional test and nice editing! Thanks
Thanks for this video, i buy today clone from Fysetc - MK3S Bear Kit 🤪.
What parts did you print? I think the bear kit uses different parts?
superb comparisons, very well produced.
Hi! Where can i find the blue PETG 3D Printed Parts for the prusa like yours?
Hi, I printed it with my original Prusa.
I am working on my 3D printing farm so I could also print for demand but it is not so pretty yet. However it works but I need to adjust the price calculation. If you interested: www.dombi3d.de
i have problem whit Einsy-base and heatsink of board... they collapse...what your solution?
I did not used the motor driver heatsinks, on the original one was also none of them.
@@Dombi3D now i have print the old stile box for einsy..whitout support for raspberry zero... and i wait the iko bearing from courier before finish all assembly...
Very professional!
Are these clones close enough that an MMU2 could be added to them?
Yes they are, I am just sat down to order one MMU2S clone also to check what they can do. Probably will be another video topic.
PS.: Nice to see your comment here :)
@@Dombi3D Wait, there's MMU2S clones? Man, that seems like a bad idea... and I kinda want to do it.
Under my first link you can choose that option also :) I have also some doubts, but I like experimenting. However it will be probably challanging because the original prusa uses a special heatbrake (at the melt zone it has 2 mm diameter instead of 2.2 mm) for the MMU2S setup, but if I can not make it work without it then I just order that part later.
Great comparison
all clones have 10 centigrades of difference whit the original in the hotend?
Because of the different thermistor that they use probably yes. If precise tenperature required, I recommend to buy the original e3d thermistor.
Really this was an awesome video thank you so much Bro
I got mine a week ago. Delivery was really fast. But imho, you dont save that much. The plastic parts take a long time to print. And the cables are mostly insulated with cheap plastic. Especially the ones going to the headbed. Really brittle and stiff. I replaced most of the cables, because i fear my house could be burned down by shorting cables because of broken cable insulations. Would not recommend.
PLEASE: Replace these cables if you buy this printer. It is a real fire hazard, if you ask me.
Where did you buy those cables?
So, if I understand correctly, the only real problem is the nozzle cooling fan. Is this responsible for the high temperatures? Could the quick fix be to replace that fan with one like in the original Prusa? What parts 'need' to be modded/replaced to make it really trouble-free? Great review by the way. I'm always a bit afraid of clone machines from China. Sometimes they cut too many corners, because the person making the clone doesn't really understand why the OEM choose certain parts. This one seems to be made with a bit more effort, judging by the results.
The high temperature is caused by the different thermistor type. If you want to get rid of it I would buy the original e3d thermistor because that is what programmed by the EinsyBoard. (they have probably little bit different voltage levels for different temperautres).
The nozzle cooling fan just helps you to cool back the material over the melting zone to keep the filament solid on the top part of the heatbreak. I made another video also on this topic where I speak about the upgrade parts. Check it out.
@@Dombi3D thanks! I saw the other video a bit later with the listing of the upgrade parts. Good job! Will surely consider it. Very helpful, thanks!
Excellent job on the video. Organized perfectly
That's great job thank you
After three 3DBenchies, my printer has stopped completely. I suspect that the extruder is completely clogged, and I don't know what to do. I try to insert the filament, but after a little while it just stops and starts to jump on the extruder gears.
Have you changed the hestbreak to the full metal Version?
@@Dombi3D ... no :)
I’ll get a full metal heatbreak, I’ve got a MK2 heatsink spare laying around and a proper E3D nozzle. If it works, I’ll paypal you a cookie! Have a subscribe in the meantime.
@@Dombi3D Following has been done so far:
- Genuine MISUMI bearings
- Genuine MK3s+ upgrade
- Genuine heatblock, nozzle, heatsink and heatbreak
- Genuine removable heatbed
At this point it’s working like it should. I’m still 150-200$ under the price of what a new Prusa costs. Had I know that, I would probably not bought a clone to begin with.
To pay respect to Prusa, I’ve bought filament and parts from them, as well as a spanking new genuine Mini+ that should arrive within the next month or so.
The only thing on my bear i3 mk3s clone that is as on the original is the BT gears I found after well over 3000h printing that my triangleab ones liked to chew through filament way too much, but still was good for the 1st few hundred hours i print only with PETG, whereas the BT gears have been shaped correctly and hardened.
I do not know yet the long term quality of the clone but I had no issues till now after 2.5 kg PETG. The new ones I build more robust (misumi/IGUS bearings, Micro Swiss full metal heatbrake and HSS nozzle, Nylock mod, Gates belt). I think they will hold for a while. We will see.
@@Dombi3D what hotend did it come with?
Gr8 video
What is the brand of your Stepper motors? I just built the BluRoll kit and my belt tension is super high 160's and even with a very loose belt will not get to the 200's. After some searching, some mentioned it might be a voltage issue with the steppers or resistance with the bearings. This is my first printer but the bearings seem to be moving well. Any suggestions?
I used the motors which were in the package. Both X and Y has this problem? I do not know the BluRoll kit.
@@Dombi3D Yes. My Y is better 173 and my X is 164. The prints have been good but crash detection must be off.
@@dr3wst3r1 The good point in this that if the bearings are little bit tighter than it wont make so much ghosting. Crash detection is a nice feature but it was triggered till now once for me during a 2km filament print time so I would say it is not a big lost.