Been using Speedplay Zero for years, absolutely love them. Just got a set of the new Wahoo Zero, and aside from it working just as well, I didn't need to "break-in" the pedal for clipping in/out like I used to for Speedplay. But as others have pointed out, you really should use the proper torque amounts (4/2.5 nm) when tightening both sets of screws.
In the Wahoo forum, there have been quite a few people who have had problems with not being able to unclip properly without the cover on and the recommendation is to fit it before clipping in, even to test things like float.
Thanks, I've been asking around about this and had not had any confirmation. I assume the converse is also true, I can use my old shoe/cleat on the new pedals?
@@d00dEEE I cannot confirm that. I just replaced the cleat on my shoe since it had some unplanned walking wear. Kept using the old pedal. Intuition tells me it should work
Putting the walking covers is so difficult. It felt like I was bending the cover to wear it was impossible to snap it on to the spring piece. So basically I decided to change it back to my spd sl cleat. The hardware was actually going through the base plate and screwing in to my carbon. I didnt even notice...till i saw my soul was not flush with my base plate......I'm leaning towards returning the pedals.
Doesn’t solve second issue, but to put the covers on for at least the first time, I put 3 of the corners on (or as much as possible) then stand in the shoes and it pushes it on fully or at least enough where it only needs the smallest amount of pressure to get it on fully.
Wahoo/Speedplay suggest those top screws should be tightened to 2.5nm. If you over tighten them, you risk not being able to clip in/out. Second tip: never trust the marks/guides on the bottom of the shoe. They’re never the same on both shoes, even on top-end models like the S Works 7. Set one cleat and then measure the other one manually.
4 to 5nm to fix the base plate to the outsole is good enough to break the former especially when pedalling…. I have done it before… according to the instruction 2NM is good enough. More, the plastic cover can get loose within 50m walking… buy yourself more spare. Happy riding.
Sad story, if you have the patience to read I'll take you with me... I've bought Wahoo Speedplay pedals at double the cost of high-end Look pedals, which I was coming from. Why I bought them? Well, because I suck at clipping one-side pedals, two-sided pedals were my Shangry-La. I installed them, and rode 2000 km in two months. They still were so hard I couldn't clip them restarting from traffic lights. I complained with Wahoo, and they were so gentle and professionals they gave me a couple of easy-to-clip-in cleats. Fast delivery, when they arrived I installed them and tried them at home. Fantastic! The amount of force to clip them in was right; it occurred to me, why don't they sell only this option? I discovered it at the first outdoor run. They are so easy also to unclip! Very dangerous, when I went "on danseuse" if I didn't pay sufficient attention, I was unclipping and risking to fall... 50 km ride and I got back to normal tension cleats. Then I had to pass again though the nightmare of setting heel-in and out, and if you want to adjust during a ride, you always have to remove the walkable cleats, adjust and remount them, otherwise you wear the metal and the plastics underneath when you walk; do this multiple times. In the end, I think that the double side clipping system is good, but the project has two many unresolved drawbacks, I was shocked how much they cost and how complicated is mounting and setup! Just look at Look (lol), pedals are eternal and cleats are just a piece of plastic, and the full system is lighter than Speedplay, and costs way less! Too bad for me I am so clumsy at clipping them. What do you think?
Not sure if I missed it but in the manual they talk quite a lot about lubricating these cleats with the Speedplay "dry lube" and on quite a regular basis too.
Very funny to heard "very easy to put the cover cleat". From more than one hour trying without success... I am close to put all on the trash, brand new shoes and this devil cover cleat...😅
To set up and to actually using the set on a bike is two different stories. I was not able to snap in my Specialized Torch 3 into the cleats no matter how hard I push it in. I returned the Wahoo cleats to REI.
In some of the other videos, they say that the little screws will make a “click” noise when you’ve tightened them enough. If I didn’t hear that should I keep tightening?
Just gone over to Speedplay, getting clipped in the first time must take 500w its not easy. Apparently they do get easier with use. Will be using them indoors for a while. Until I am used to the position I have set up, and I can get in and out. Falling over outside trying to unclip is not something I have done for many many years.???
I have the older X3 series speedplay since 2004 and have been very happy with them. My only issue with this newer adjustable float system is the cleats plastic housing that holds the adjustment screws. I feel the plastic would wear out pretty soon and not hold the adjustable metal screws in place. Anyone have this issue?
@@The2014engineer Ball over fit was designed for toeclips and straps which I'm old enough to have used and makes no sense for today. The new Speedplaysa got rid of front and back adjustment which really reduces their usefulness.
You say the grey cover is to make them more aero which is likely true, but the main purpose of it is to make it so you can walk around in them without damaging the cleat or potentially someone’s pristine wooden floor. Another detail is that the grey cover signifies that it’s the light release pedal, heavier / more powerful riders may want to look for the yellow and black cleats & covers
Maybe a stupid question… but do you need speed play cleats in order to use a Wahoo Element bolt? I was thinking about getting the unit for gps use and elevation tracking but will it not work the same if I don’t have the cleats?
@@SteRumbelow It was in case the two 'speak to each other' to provide various data sets... Not sure why you think it appropriate to belittle someone seeking to learn.
@samyool - you don’t need speed play cleats. Your cleats are your choice. And the Wahoo Element Bolt should read any sensor, whether they be cadence, speed, power, pressure, etc - regardless of where it’s located and what brand, as long as the sensor has Bluetooth ANT+. Hope that helps!
Hey Sam, these cleats (and pedals) have no data connection to a Wahoo Bolt or any headunit. These are not power pedals and as such have no connectivity features or data to send. A headunit is a great way to track your riding, follow routes and display and data from any sensors you have, such as HR or power. 😀
@@gcntech Well, I made the change and when I sat on the bike, and checked the pedal rotation, I did not feel as if I was over extended. Completed a 50+K ride, and honestly, I felt fine. Did some 100+ cadence efforts and did not find myself rocking in the saddle. I could be that my existing setup had my saddle a bit low. I don't know, but I really like the new pedals. Thanks.
i switch to these from the speedplay X series - pretty much because they made me / errrrr discontinued the X... they feel about the same as the X - but these new "covers" won't stay on, i find them on the side of the road etc etc... sad....
Very Dangerous Video. You definitely need a Torque Wrench. Any "mechanic" that touches your speed play set-up without using a Torque Wrench should be dropped immediately.
@@octagon_1211 Wahoo almost doubled the price when they bought Speedplay. Speedplay pedals weren't cheap to begin with, but at that time also not ridiculous expensive.
I just bought a new pair of Wahoo Speedplay Zeros to replace the Zeros I've been riding for more than 5 years. The price I paid, $229, is the same price I paid 5 years ago and I believe I have a higher quality, longer lasting pedal system now. I won't need to use my grease gun any longer to keep the pedals greased since the new ones have sealed bearings. Yes, they are more expensive than some other pedals but, IMHO, very much worth it. To save some money, you can get the Speedplay Comp pedals for $149. Same functionality just a little heavier.
Give me mtb shoes and cleats anyday. Far far easier to install, better to walk in, shoes are just as stiff. Most road cyclists i met use mtb pedals these days.
I agree, I got these new Wahoo SpeedPlays. Have ridden them for a couple of Months, the pedal body is starting to come lose. Beside that my ankles are hurting from walking around with these, so yes going to switcht the MTB shoes & pedals
I find mtb pedals and shoes less comfortable on longer rides due to the smaller contact area. Besides, Look and Shimano cleats are just as easy to setup as mtb cleats.
@@vesalehtinen4534 the mtb style, cycle shoe i have - north wave rebels, has a solid stiff sole making the whole shoe a contact area. So i dont understand your point. Are your shoes floppy soft and flexible ?
@@TheLimeCurd I have bought these new Wahoo SpeedPlays & I agree don’t buy them. The Pedal it self is coming lose (play between the pedal and the pedalbody). Beside that my ankle is starting to hurt from the excessive amount of stack while walking. That said, if you don’t clean (dismantel) & grease the cleats you’re done for it within a short period of time
I have bikes with speedplay pedals. Nothing wrong with them if you maintain them well. Don't buy titanium version, because I even destroyed them in few montths while the steel axles holding up for 15 years. First time putting cleats on is a puzzle, second cleats on the shoe is done in a few minutes because you keep the base-plate in position. Buying current Wahoo Speedplay's ... They almost doubled the price and quality is not really improved. In China they make a familiar pedal that is a good quality and a third of the price. (better baseplates and bearings).
I'm on my third set of Speedplays and I love them. Never had any problems with 'play' in them but my FTP isn't the highest so maybe I'm not stressing them as much. I've never dismantled them as you can grease them by removing the little screw on the side and injecting new grease with a grease injector like Pedro's. Also, the new Wahoo version have sealed bearings so even this is not necessary anymore. As for walking in them... I prefer to ride. :)
So on time for me! Moving from spd to speedplay and received my cleats and pedals today
Been using Speedplay Zero for years, absolutely love them. Just got a set of the new Wahoo Zero, and aside from it working just as well, I didn't need to "break-in" the pedal for clipping in/out like I used to for Speedplay. But as others have pointed out, you really should use the proper torque amounts (4/2.5 nm) when tightening both sets of screws.
Loved this video: just got Speedplay pedals and want to get set up right! This was simple and very clear.
Very clearly presented. Thank you!
Absolutely not.
Where were the sizes of the screws and the torque of the screws?
Not an engineer or a new age engineer :)
GCN make this easy to follow!! Awesome! Thanks guys 😂
One of the benefits of speedplay pedals is the low stack height. So get a pair of speedplay specific shoes with the 4 hole soles for direct mounting.
In the Wahoo forum, there have been quite a few people who have had problems with not being able to unclip properly without the cover on and the recommendation is to fit it before clipping in, even to test things like float.
FYI, the new wahoo cleats work with the old zero pedals!
Thanks, I've been asking around about this and had not had any confirmation. I assume the converse is also true, I can use my old shoe/cleat on the new pedals?
@@d00dEEE I cannot confirm that. I just replaced the cleat on my shoe since it had some unplanned walking wear. Kept using the old pedal. Intuition tells me it should work
Yes. I run both the old zero and the new zero with no problems.
Putting the walking covers is so difficult. It felt like I was bending the cover to wear it was impossible to snap it on to the spring piece. So basically I decided to change it back to my spd sl cleat. The hardware was actually going through the base plate and screwing in to my carbon. I didnt even notice...till i saw my soul was not flush with my base plate......I'm leaning towards returning the pedals.
Doesn’t solve second issue, but to put the covers on for at least the first time, I put 3 of the corners on (or as much as possible) then stand in the shoes and it pushes it on fully or at least enough where it only needs the smallest amount of pressure to get it on fully.
Wahoo/Speedplay suggest those top screws should be tightened to 2.5nm. If you over tighten them, you risk not being able to clip in/out.
Second tip: never trust the marks/guides on the bottom of the shoe. They’re never the same on both shoes, even on top-end models like the S Works 7. Set one cleat and then measure the other one manually.
My Bonts have always been exactly the same over the last 4 pairs.
I just buy it but it's very hard to lock and remove from the paddle its normal ?
4 to 5nm to fix the base plate to the outsole is good enough to break the former especially when pedalling…. I have done it before…
according to the instruction 2NM is good enough. More, the plastic cover can get loose within 50m walking… buy yourself more spare. Happy riding.
Great video. Let’s see how I go. Thanks
Remember to grease the threads as your shoes are open to the elements such as salt and water from the road and can quickly become corroded
Sad story, if you have the patience to read I'll take you with me... I've bought Wahoo Speedplay pedals at double the cost of high-end Look pedals, which I was coming from. Why I bought them? Well, because I suck at clipping one-side pedals, two-sided pedals were my Shangry-La. I installed them, and rode 2000 km in two months. They still were so hard I couldn't clip them restarting from traffic lights. I complained with Wahoo, and they were so gentle and professionals they gave me a couple of easy-to-clip-in cleats. Fast delivery, when they arrived I installed them and tried them at home. Fantastic! The amount of force to clip them in was right; it occurred to me, why don't they sell only this option? I discovered it at the first outdoor run. They are so easy also to unclip! Very dangerous, when I went "on danseuse" if I didn't pay sufficient attention, I was unclipping and risking to fall... 50 km ride and I got back to normal tension cleats. Then I had to pass again though the nightmare of setting heel-in and out, and if you want to adjust during a ride, you always have to remove the walkable cleats, adjust and remount them, otherwise you wear the metal and the plastics underneath when you walk; do this multiple times. In the end, I think that the double side clipping system is good, but the project has two many unresolved drawbacks, I was shocked how much they cost and how complicated is mounting and setup! Just look at Look (lol), pedals are eternal and cleats are just a piece of plastic, and the full system is lighter than Speedplay, and costs way less! Too bad for me I am so clumsy at clipping them. What do you think?
Not sure if I missed it but in the manual they talk quite a lot about lubricating these cleats with the Speedplay "dry lube" and on quite a regular basis too.
Wow! New clip shoes? How much will it cost?😲
Very funny to heard "very easy to put the cover cleat". From more than one hour trying without success... I am close to put all on the trash, brand new shoes and this devil cover cleat...😅
To set up and to actually using the set on a bike is two different stories. I was not able to snap in my Specialized Torch 3 into the cleats no matter how hard I push it in. I returned the Wahoo cleats to REI.
In some of the other videos, they say that the little screws will make a “click” noise when you’ve tightened them enough. If I didn’t hear that should I keep tightening?
It’s not so much a clicking noise, as a detent felt when tightening (almost a ratcheting feeling). Hope this helps.
Just gone over to Speedplay, getting clipped in the first time must take 500w its not easy. Apparently they do get easier with use. Will be using them indoors for a while. Until I am used to the position I have set up, and I can get in and out. Falling over outside trying to unclip is not something I have done for many many years.???
I won't claim that it's never happened 🙁 but it is a rare circumstance!
Returning a set for this exact reason. Straight back to shimano/look
@@miket2646 At least I got a full refund, so well done to my retailer for that. They were found to be faulty.
@@miket2646they’re shit I agree
I have the older X3 series speedplay since 2004 and have been very happy with them. My only issue with this newer adjustable float system is the cleats plastic housing that holds the adjustment screws. I feel the plastic would wear out pretty soon and not hold the adjustable metal screws in place. Anyone have this issue?
Still perpetuating the "ball of foot over the pedal axle" myth
Old reliable
@@The2014engineer Ball over fit was designed for toeclips and straps which I'm old enough to have used and makes no sense for today. The new Speedplaysa got rid of front and back adjustment which really reduces their usefulness.
Why are humongous, unwalkable road cleats preferred over the 2 bolt Shimano SPD, aka off road cleats?
Which pedals do you prefer? The speed play or the “traditional” clip less pedals? I’m curious to try these new speed play ones out
You say the grey cover is to make them more aero which is likely true, but the main purpose of it is to make it so you can walk around in them without damaging the cleat or potentially someone’s pristine wooden floor. Another detail is that the grey cover signifies that it’s the light release pedal, heavier / more powerful riders may want to look for the yellow and black cleats & covers
Pretty sure that first screwdriver is posidrive 😉
what is the stack height on these vs a dura ace pedal or look keo?
What will be range for tire pressure?
Maybe a stupid question… but do you need speed play cleats in order to use a Wahoo Element bolt? I was thinking about getting the unit for gps use and elevation tracking but will it not work the same if I don’t have the cleats?
@@SteRumbelow It was in case the two 'speak to each other' to provide various data sets... Not sure why you think it appropriate to belittle someone seeking to learn.
@samyool - you don’t need speed play cleats. Your cleats are your choice. And the Wahoo Element Bolt should read any sensor, whether they be cadence, speed, power, pressure, etc - regardless of where it’s located and what brand, as long as the sensor has Bluetooth ANT+. Hope that helps!
Hey Sam, these cleats (and pedals) have no data connection to a Wahoo Bolt or any headunit. These are not power pedals and as such have no connectivity features or data to send. A headunit is a great way to track your riding, follow routes and display and data from any sensors you have, such as HR or power. 😀
@@GCNalex Thanks for clarifying Alex - I’m a total noob when it comes to the tech side of cycling (but something I’m trying to learn!) Much obliged 👍🏻
I understand the stack height is lower for the Wahoo Speedplay pedals/cleats…will this mean saddle height will need adjusted down as well?
Hi David, thats right! You will need to slightly adjust your saddle.
@@gcntech Well, I made the change and when I sat on the bike, and checked the pedal rotation, I did not feel as if I was over extended. Completed a 50+K ride, and honestly, I felt fine. Did some 100+ cadence efforts and did not find myself rocking in the saddle. I could be that my existing setup had my saddle a bit low. I don't know, but I really like the new pedals. Thanks.
Speed play and nothing else. I've run mine for 4 years.
i switch to these from the speedplay X series - pretty much because they made me / errrrr discontinued the X... they feel about the same as the X - but these new "covers" won't stay on, i find them on the side of the road etc etc... sad....
How do you remove the covers?
Right hand shoe?
😂😂😂
Can't really take seriously a cycling product with phillips screws on it
Don't know where you got 4nm for the cleat plate, instructions from Wahoo are 2.5nm
Anyone know where I can get cheap cycling shoes
What’s 4-5 nm mean!!!?????
Very Dangerous Video.
You definitely need a Torque Wrench.
Any "mechanic" that touches your speed play set-up without using a Torque Wrench should be dropped immediately.
Wow, just too complicated .... will stay with shimano SPD-SL.
Thanks Alex...I am an SPD guy. Peace
Wait... Am I out of the loop? Since when are they wahoo speedplay?
Wahoo bought speedplay a year or so ago
2019
expensive thing?
yes
@@octagon_1211 Wahoo almost doubled the price when they bought Speedplay. Speedplay pedals weren't cheap to begin with, but at that time also not ridiculous expensive.
I just bought a new pair of Wahoo Speedplay Zeros to replace the Zeros I've been riding for more than 5 years. The price I paid, $229, is the same price I paid 5 years ago and I believe I have a higher quality, longer lasting pedal system now. I won't need to use my grease gun any longer to keep the pedals greased since the new ones have sealed bearings. Yes, they are more expensive than some other pedals but, IMHO, very much worth it. To save some money, you can get the Speedplay Comp pedals for $149. Same functionality just a little heavier.
sure easy to walk with that under your foot...
Give me mtb shoes and cleats anyday. Far far easier to install, better to walk in, shoes are just as stiff. Most road cyclists i met use mtb pedals these days.
I agree, I got these new Wahoo SpeedPlays. Have ridden them for a couple of Months, the pedal body is starting to come lose.
Beside that my ankles are hurting from walking around with these, so yes going to switcht the MTB shoes & pedals
I find mtb pedals and shoes less comfortable on longer rides due to the smaller contact area. Besides, Look and Shimano cleats are just as easy to setup as mtb cleats.
@@vesalehtinen4534 the mtb style, cycle shoe i have - north wave rebels, has a solid stiff sole making the whole shoe a contact area. So i dont understand your point. Are your shoes floppy soft and flexible ?
@@retroonhisbikes Sell your road bike and get yourself a mountain bike instead.
@@shannontrainer5857 I have a mountain bike too, hence the S at the end of the word Bikes.
Absolutely the worst product I've ever purchased.
Step 1: don't buy speedplay
But can you afford it, tried it and qualified to share your opinions with others?
@@TheLimeCurd I have bought these new Wahoo SpeedPlays & I agree don’t buy them.
The Pedal it self is coming lose (play between the pedal and the pedalbody). Beside that my ankle is starting to hurt from the excessive amount of stack while walking.
That said, if you don’t clean (dismantel) & grease the cleats you’re done for it within a short period of time
I have bikes with speedplay pedals. Nothing wrong with them if you maintain them well. Don't buy titanium version, because I even destroyed them in few montths while the steel axles holding up for 15 years. First time putting cleats on is a puzzle, second cleats on the shoe is done in a few minutes because you keep the base-plate in position. Buying current Wahoo Speedplay's ... They almost doubled the price and quality is not really improved. In China they make a familiar pedal that is a good quality and a third of the price. (better baseplates and bearings).
I'm on my third set of Speedplays and I love them. Never had any problems with 'play' in them but my FTP isn't the highest so maybe I'm not stressing them as much. I've never dismantled them as you can grease them by removing the little screw on the side and injecting new grease with a grease injector like Pedro's. Also, the new Wahoo version have sealed bearings so even this is not necessary anymore. As for walking in them... I prefer to ride. :)
@@nlfiets Hmm, I've had the Ti version on one of my bikes since 2005, about 6000+ miles on that bike, so I'd say they last just fine.