I would highly recommend an after cooler to drop the air temp before it goes into your compressor tank. This serves multiple purposes, the water comes out before it gets to the tank and the tank can hold room temperature air instead of the air cooling in the tank, then the compressor having to kick on as the pressure drops from the lower temps. If you are running a high-demand device like a sandblaster the air coming out of your air tank can get pretty close to 100 F and since you have the short run of galvanized before pex, I'd really watch the first 10 feet or so.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo So yeah, you're good with no aftercooler. The tank will cool the air long before it hits your pex. I'm going to pex myself and looking forward to having proper drops and no longer tripping over air hoses on the floor.
If you do this again, you really need a resilient connection, like a hose, coming off the tank. Hydraulic hose works great. This is because compressors vibrate a lot. If fact the can walk around if they are not anchored in place. This could the the compressor vibrations will be directly transmitted into the wall of your shop, or worse, the stress of the tank moving around can cause the rigid connection to fracture. A union on the tank with a loop of hydraulic hose will make things much better.
i like to put ball valves on all my output points behind a quick couplers so if you break a hose you dont have to run back to the compressor to shut things down or if a coupler develops a leak while your gone
I second the flex hose to the compressor into the building. I'd also suggest adding valves at each of the low points of the system, with the air outlet above them, to keep condensation from collecting in the airlines.
Should replace the iron pipe with a Compressor lead-in hose, 3 foot piece. It helps absorb the vibration and isn't corrosive. All that's going to do is vibrate that line to death.
It all comes down to pressure ratings.. a lot of compressors can push heavier pressures than PEX is rated for though. It's doable, just gotta be cautious.
I was surprised they're still a thing. I have a dedicated breaker so they're superfluous in my application, but I didn't wait to wait on ordering non-fused disconnects as they were sold out in my area when I was ready to do the install.
Very nice install. My only thought is I wouldn’t want a quick disconnect so high I need a ladder to get to it. Maybe it’s the ones I buy but they a;ways seem to leak. I don’t connect them until I’m gonna use them.
I only did the quick disconnect on a few... in hindsight I do wish I'd done them all. The other day I abraded one of the hoses and it started leaking. Fortunately it was on a quick disconnect so I was able to just hop on a ladder and pop it out and all was good. If I hadn't done that, I would've had to cut off air in the whole shop, and go buy a replacement hose or cap fitting to start running air again.
Another great video. I like your style and how you explain things in simple terms. Thanks again. Now I'm off to Menards to buy some pexs and some fittings. In my small shop I will probably just go with SharkBite fittings and straight PEX pieces instead of the coil. I will probably never have more than 110 PSI in my pexs lines.
Thanks! After working out of garages for years it's nice to finally have a real dedicated space. Of course it helps that this is my full time gig, definitely wouldn't make sense to invest as much otherwise.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo this makes it so much easier as I’m building my Dream shop and I am currently finishing up on the office/apartment in the same barn i already have everything I need except for a few fittings.
Really wished there was a better way to introduce the supply line thru the wall. Like a junction box that has quick conect option. I've been temporarily running my air and power lines in through old broken cat entry door but really need to replace that door and button up for winter. I like the compressor outside for safety and noise. Just haven't found a clean solution for running air line through the back of my house ( garage wall )
Those 25' coil hoses work good when they are new, but over time they will not retract like you would want. You are better off mounting a retractable reel, like you did on the rafters.
Great video. I am trying to make a small enclosure for my compressor and wanted to run some air lines in the box. Do you recommend using that nylon hard line? I noticed you used standard rubber hose but I see a lot of people using the hard line for your kind of operation. I was wondering why you chose rubber hose.
If i got this correct you're using 1/2" pex, using 1/2" PEX to 1/2" NPT adaptors, then necking down to 1/4" npt fittings. After ~4 mo are you still happy with it? I'm planning the same but vacillating between 1/2 pex, and 3/4"; where airlines (and most pipe) are listed by i.d. pex is by O.D. so 3/4 pex is actually 1/2" id. Anyway bottom line you satisfied with the 1/2"
I'm really happy with it. And almost all of my 1/2' terminates into 1/4" hoses.. so it really doesn't matter how big my runs are. And I don't use heavy air tools, so the extra storage in the lines doesn't mean anything to me like it might in an air heavy shop.
Eh? I find paddle switches far more convenient than toggle. Especially in a shop, where your hands are often full or dirty. I can forearm/elbow flip my paddle switches way easier than a toggle switch.
Not really, doesn't affect the efficacy of my system since I'm not using any high volume tools. Plus, I'm holding 125psi in the lines.. if I lose 15psi, don't really care much. Quite different from pushing water in your house at 40psi through several hundred feet of pex where the volume/pressure difference at the end could be really disappointing. In that case, high flow connections can really help.
Inside it takes up a good size footprint and is really loud. My barn has 10’ over hangs on each side so it’s protected from rain and even sun most of the day. Also, I live in Mississippi… so we don’t have much of a winter. Few days below freezing. I should’ve talked about that. Definitely don’t want to just stick one right in the weather.
30A breakers are in the service panel, the only disconnect I could get was a fusible so I grabbed 25A fuses (compressor pulls 22A). If there had been a non-fusible disconnect available, I'd have bought it instead.
Had to rebuild the regulator. It has to be before the separator though and I didn’t want it dripping inside. If I did it again I’d put them both inside with a bucket under
Definitely a factor to consider. The anti-vibration pads and Tapcons should keep mine in place, and the hardline isn't rigidly mounted to anything, it's got some wiggle.
I would highly recommend an after cooler to drop the air temp before it goes into your compressor tank. This serves multiple purposes, the water comes out before it gets to the tank and the tank can hold room temperature air instead of the air cooling in the tank, then the compressor having to kick on as the pressure drops from the lower temps. If you are running a high-demand device like a sandblaster the air coming out of your air tank can get pretty close to 100 F and since you have the short run of galvanized before pex, I'd really watch the first 10 feet or so.
That’s some good feedback, thanks! I mostly use it for just blowing off surfaces and filling tires, so not much demand at all.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo So yeah, you're good with no aftercooler. The tank will cool the air long before it hits your pex. I'm going to pex myself and looking forward to having proper drops and no longer tripping over air hoses on the floor.
Nice tidy solution to running air round the shop. Plus lots stuff hooked up ready to be used 👍👍
Yes indeed!
If you do this again, you really need a resilient connection, like a hose, coming off the tank. Hydraulic hose works great. This is because compressors vibrate a lot. If fact the can walk around if they are not anchored in place. This could the the compressor vibrations will be directly transmitted into the wall of your shop, or worse, the stress of the tank moving around can cause the rigid connection to fracture.
A union on the tank with a loop of hydraulic hose will make things much better.
i like to put ball valves on all my output points behind a quick couplers so if you break a hose you dont have to run back to the compressor to shut things down or if a coupler develops a leak while your gone
Not a bad idea
I second the flex hose to the compressor into the building. I'd also suggest adding valves at each of the low points of the system, with the air outlet above them, to keep condensation from collecting in the airlines.
Should replace the iron pipe with a Compressor lead-in hose, 3 foot piece. It helps absorb the vibration and isn't corrosive. All that's going to do is vibrate that line to death.
Not a bad idea
I had no clue that PEX could handle compressed air. Slick work dude.
It all comes down to pressure ratings.. a lot of compressors can push heavier pressures than PEX is rated for though. It's doable, just gotta be cautious.
The shop is really taking shape, lucky you. Stay safe
Thanks! The shop projects have slowed, but still inching there bit by bit.
I haven't seen Fuses used on a new build in 32 years. I do like the auto drain.
I was surprised they're still a thing. I have a dedicated breaker so they're superfluous in my application, but I didn't wait to wait on ordering non-fused disconnects as they were sold out in my area when I was ready to do the install.
+ i like the strip lighting all through the shop)& the exposed trusses looks like you made it virtually dust free 👍 nice job!
Did my best!
Very nice install. My only thought is I wouldn’t want a quick disconnect so high I need a ladder to get to it. Maybe it’s the ones I buy but they a;ways seem to leak. I don’t connect them until I’m gonna use them.
I only did the quick disconnect on a few... in hindsight I do wish I'd done them all. The other day I abraded one of the hoses and it started leaking. Fortunately it was on a quick disconnect so I was able to just hop on a ladder and pop it out and all was good. If I hadn't done that, I would've had to cut off air in the whole shop, and go buy a replacement hose or cap fitting to start running air again.
Another great video. I like your style and how you explain things in simple terms. Thanks again. Now I'm off to Menards to buy some pexs and some fittings. In my small shop I will probably just go with SharkBite fittings and straight PEX pieces instead of the coil. I will probably never have more than 110 PSI in my pexs lines.
WOW!!! What an Impressive shop, making all the other woodworkers jealous for sure. lol Or is it just me? congrats and keep up the informative videos.
Thanks! After working out of garages for years it's nice to finally have a real dedicated space. Of course it helps that this is my full time gig, definitely wouldn't make sense to invest as much otherwise.
Great information never thought about using pex. This will definitely be incorporated into my new shop!!!
It was so fast and easy, it was about a day and a half’s work with recording. Just beware of the risks I mentioned since it’s not technically suited.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo this makes it so much easier as I’m building my Dream shop and I am currently finishing up on the office/apartment in the same barn i already have everything I need except for a few fittings.
Really wished there was a better way to introduce the supply line thru the wall. Like a junction box that has quick conect option. I've been temporarily running my air and power lines in through old broken cat entry door but really need to replace that door and button up for winter. I like the compressor outside for safety and noise. Just haven't found a clean solution for running air line through the back of my house ( garage wall )
Nice hoses.
Glad you like them!
Those 25' coil hoses work good when they are new, but over time they will not retract like you would want. You are better off mounting a retractable reel, like you did on the rafters.
My retractable is a giant PITA that cost a lot more. I’ve noticed that if I store them with thr coil “intact” they keep their shape a lot better.
Great video. I am trying to make a small enclosure for my compressor and wanted to run some air lines in the box. Do you recommend using that nylon hard line? I noticed you used standard rubber hose but I see a lot of people using the hard line for your kind of operation. I was wondering why you chose rubber hose.
Whats the PSI you have the regulator set at? have you seen any performance issues/ruptures so far?
If i got this correct you're using 1/2" pex, using 1/2" PEX to 1/2" NPT adaptors, then necking down to 1/4" npt fittings. After ~4 mo are you still happy with it?
I'm planning the same but vacillating between 1/2 pex, and 3/4"; where airlines (and most pipe) are listed by i.d. pex is by O.D. so 3/4 pex is actually 1/2" id. Anyway bottom line you satisfied with the 1/2"
I'm really happy with it. And almost all of my 1/2' terminates into 1/4" hoses.. so it really doesn't matter how big my runs are. And I don't use heavy air tools, so the extra storage in the lines doesn't mean anything to me like it might in an air heavy shop.
I love the idea of an auto water drain. My compressor is also remote. I want on. What did you use, where do I find them, how do I get one?
Mine is a husky brand from Home Depot. www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Automatic-Electronic-Tank-Drain-072-0030H/305016301
How did you do the "U" EMT bend? That is funny🤣
"Stick it through my glorious hole here..." I LOL'd there
I thought nobody caught that 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks for not disappointing
3:23 Decora switch inside a garage... Geez !
Looks slick but not convenient
Eh? I find paddle switches far more convenient than toggle. Especially in a shop, where your hands are often full or dirty. I can forearm/elbow flip my paddle switches way easier than a toggle switch.
Nice shop set up! Jealous😂
Thanks! Took a ton of work and patience to get here
Any reason you don’t use high flow connections on the Pex?
Not really, doesn't affect the efficacy of my system since I'm not using any high volume tools. Plus, I'm holding 125psi in the lines.. if I lose 15psi, don't really care much. Quite different from pushing water in your house at 40psi through several hundred feet of pex where the volume/pressure difference at the end could be really disappointing. In that case, high flow connections can really help.
Would shark bite connections work for air lines like they do for the water lines ? Asking for a friend
It’s water tight so they’d be airtight, the only question is the pressure rating. House pressure for water is normally around 40psi.
Well if I get around to plumbing air in my shop I’ll have to try a test segment and see how it works.
Starts at 0:52
how is the pex holding up?
Zero issues
🔥🔥🔥 Why would you put your air compressor out in the weather? 🔥🔥🔥
Because it's big, loud, and rated for outdoor use. It's under cover so protected from rain and UV.
Need a ball valve inside and outside
Just having the cut off inside has been fine for me. But more doesn't hurt.
what kind of auto drain did you use?
Husky brand from Home Depot.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Thanks!
What coil hose did you use
From Harbor Freight
Why have compressor outside all the what rain ice snow ??? And freezing
Inside it takes up a good size footprint and is really loud. My barn has 10’ over hangs on each side so it’s protected from rain and even sun most of the day. Also, I live in Mississippi… so we don’t have much of a winter. Few days below freezing. I should’ve talked about that. Definitely don’t want to just stick one right in the weather.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo oh ya down there ya no deep freeze I’m up on like erie not Goleta Alaska cold here
all your drop lines should have drip legs with drains, or at least drip legs. your main supply lines should have as big a pipe as you could afford.
Good recommendation
Fuses rather than breakers?
30A breakers are in the service panel, the only disconnect I could get was a fusible so I grabbed 25A fuses (compressor pulls 22A). If there had been a non-fusible disconnect available, I'd have bought it instead.
What in the world is up with that emt bend at the receptacle.
Yeah wtf
I guess he drilled the hole for the electrical in the wrong spot and didnt want to fix it
Didnt think through stacking the holes vertically when I drilled them outside, and didn’t want to cross my lines. So it got a u-bend.
@@YouCanMakeThisToo looks a bit odd but I guess it works. while we're in the comments, where did you but those coiled hoses?
@michaelkadziolka3626 some from Home Depot and harbor freight
Just watched and wanting to do this in my shop. Still holding up well?
Had to rebuild the regulator. It has to be before the separator though and I didn’t want it dripping inside. If I did it again I’d put them both inside with a bucket under
@@YouCanMakeThisToo good to know thanks!
0:33 Cough.
Sorry.....couldn't resist.
So did you use Pex B or Pex A line?
Neither
“Oh Shit” moments seem to be a daily prerequisite for me…..
Same
Lmao 🤣 Glorious Hole 🤣🤣🤣🤣
What? 😁
@@YouCanMakeThisToo you drilled the hole in the wall. And @1:35 Said “stick this through my Glorious Hole ”
Only recommendation you should not have hard line coming from the compressor. If if it moves could break the line
Definitely a factor to consider. The anti-vibration pads and Tapcons should keep mine in place, and the hardline isn't rigidly mounted to anything, it's got some wiggle.
That disconnect is wired wrong
Just like everything else this guy does🎉 led for air is NG
Never run Pex fr air line its max PSI is 180
You said. ( Glory Hole ) lol
But only kind of...