Full Shop Air Compressor Setup
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2024
- Want to run air compressor lines throughout your shop? We did all the research so you do have to! Come see how you can have a full shop air compressor setup. Thanks to Send Cut Send for sponsoring a part of this video. Check out their metal cutting services at bit.ly/35ISLrR
Subscribe: bit.ly/ILikeToM...
Second Channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
Check out my TopVideos!: bit.ly/ILikeToM...
Get digital plans, cool merch, and indepth articles at
iliketomakestu...
Learn 3d modeling in Fusion 360 with our online course:
www.fusion360f...
TOOLS & SUPPLIES WE USED(affiliate links):
kit.co/iliketo...
kit.co/iliketo...
kit.co/iliketo...
Want to support ILTMS? The Maker Alliance gets exclusive content and more...
www.iliketomake...
FOLLOW:
/ iliketomakestuff
/ iliketomakestuf
/ iltms
MUSIC: share.epidemics...
#aircompressor #ILikeToMakeStuff #DIY
About I Like To Make Stuff:
We have lots of projects including woodworking, metalworking, electronics, 3D printing, prop making and more!
These videos are our attempt inspire and empower others to make the stuff that they want to have. Hopefully you'll see something here that will inspire you to make something that you're passionate about!
Full Shop Air Compressor Setup
• Full Shop Air Compress...
I Like To Make Stuff
/ iliketomakestuff
Go to your local farm supply store and grab a 1/2" cattle stall mat. It is solid vulcanized rubber. Anyway, put a piece of that under your compressor. It will completely eliminate all vibration into the floor, I don't even need to bolt mine down, the added friction from the rubber holds it in place.
Very good idea! Thanks for the shout!
Oh man, this is a great idea haha
i have put an old truck mud flap down before works great and the cost was free
I was just going to say that
Those mats are great for a lot of things. Weightlifting, machinery, and I park my trucks on them to protect driveway from oil stains
Awesome idea! but….. I would move the black stopper on the reel… just in case you forget and let go and it zips back to the rafter. I would suggest just under full arms reach… easy to reach yet high enough so as to not bump your head on the end 👍🏼
I would recommend a pressure regulator at each drop. 1) Convenience. You won't have to go back to the compressor each time to adjust. 2) Simultaneous. More than one tool can be used at the same time.
Seems like overkill to me. Most air tools require the same/close enough pressure. More regulators also means more maintenance and more parts to break.
Regulators??? I just run full tank pressure :)
@@bmay8818 don't forget you can't use Inline oilers with paint guns but they're reccomended with air tools. So seperate stations for each kind of work to prevent cross contamination
@Yorkiepoocharlie Those Prevost air couplers are nice but too expensive for most home shops. I use the Milton V-style high flow couplers and they do well.
This video is a must-watch if you want to tackle this type of project. I just completed the same project in my garage with a similar kit and I love it. A couple of additional points that might also be helpful:
Draw up a plan of how you want to route the air lines and determine what fittings you need. I found it was actually a better deal to do direct to the manufacturer's website and order each individual component vs buying the generic kit.
Teflon tape and pipe thread sealant are both required when making metal-to-metal connections: The teflon tape allows the connect the snug up, but the pipe thread sealant is what actually makes the connection airtight under pressure.
All of the other details provided in this video about thread size, water vapor management, and compressor basics are spot on. I spent so much time researching this and these guys nailed it in a 15min video
Nice setup! Only thing I'd maybe consider is moving that moisture filter at the end of a 25ft length of hose. The moisture as you draw air from the tank won't condense fast enough for that water filter to absorb it.
Agreed, they're inexpensive so toss one or two in the system.
Totally. Temperature is effecting the air moisture too. After it’s sent along that minimum 25 feet it’s had a chance to normalize.
I totally agree
Hot air will hold a lot of moisture. Many people have built a homemade copper pipe cooler/condenser bolted on the wall before the water and oil separator.
Yeah with a test tomorrow this sounds more important to me
haha
I have 2 midterm papers due tomorrow, but yeah agreed this is far more important
Lowering grade points since 2013 - ILTMS 😁😅🤣
A couple months late but hey you’re learning some practical stuff here that could genuinely end up being more important than regular academics. Unless you took a test on like rescuing someone from a burning building. That’s probably more important.
@@DrLoveQclol
At 5:00, the left side is a regulator with a moisture filter, the right side is a lubricator which probably doesn't have any oil in it. Most tools need oil, but some tools absolutely don't (paint guns for example). I'd recommend adding service units to all your outputs to reduce pressure drops and moisture. Put 2 quick connects on them, one before and one after the lubricator.
Yes this, he absolutely needs more outputs, and to keep the oil mist line and the clean line seperate
Bob, a suggestion as made to me by my Father I Law (Former Race car engine engineer) is to leave the drain open slightly at ALL times. This prevents ANY moisture from accumulating at the bottom of the air tank at any time. It will hiss as a small amount of air leaks while the system is in use, but if you are using your air tools you probably won’t be able to hear it. The compressor will be cycling as air is used, so as long as the valve is only open a small amount the “leak” won’t even be noticed. If you can barely hear the hiss the valve is opened enough.
Or just use solenoid with timer :)
Better is to use an electronic valve on the drain that purges a small amount of air from the tank every x number of minutes. Put one on mine, every 30 minutes it opens for a half second to purge a little air, I keep my compressor on all the time.
We have that tubing running air at my work. I’ve installed so much of it, my advice is to use a dawn/water mixture to lube the o-rings when slipping the tubing onto the fittings. You risk tearing the o-rings when tightening.
Awesome video Bob! You actually inspired me to get into woodworking, I'm going to design and build a small bench for our balcony. Also, a tip for you car project: get a powdercoat machine and a oven for that. Powdercoating is super easy and you can really bring old parts back to life with an indestructible coating. My dad and I have been working on motorcycles a long time together and this was a real game changer. It's not super expensive, and trust me, you'll get back your investment easy once you try it, we basically powdercoat everything from metal or aluminum that fits into our oven. Perfect for brackets and all that other small and medium sized stuff. I can't wait till the next video, keep up the good work guys!
Can I ask what kind of oven you're using? I'd like to set up a powder coating station in the garage, but I don't have much space, and I'm cheap. :) Thanks in advance!
Very fun! I plumbed my small woodshop in using a similar looking kit; much smaller diameter though. In my experience, all QD connections leak to some degree. Eliminate them wherever possible. Ideally, you'll only have the quick disconnect at the tool/hose connection, and everything else will be screwed in with teflon. I also put in a couple strategically placed valves in my system, so that I can work on this section or that without having to blow down the entire system.
We need ProjectFarm to test all the brands and find one that doesn't leak.
Great video! If I would recommend anything I would put the moisture filter away from the tank 25 feet to 30 feet because the moisture won’t be able to be filtered closer than that. That is if you will be using it for paint.
Awesome video!
Few tips/things to think about:
For a ceiling drop reel, make sure you move the stopper up the hose, so it always leaves the end of the hose within arms reach.
The combo regulator unit looks like a regulator + 5 micron filter first stage and oil lubricator second stage. That should be fine for most standard pneumatic tools, but you'll also want a coalescing filter (usually ~.01 micron) and desiccant dryer for any paint work. Additionally, if you're running oil through the lines to lubricate your air tools, you'll want to run a dedicated clean line just for paint air.
When you upgrade the whip hose going to the reel, I'd also upgrade the fittings to a reputable high flow brand at the same time. Milton makes a decent kit that is still compatible with with industrial, automotive, and V-style plugs. They claim 70% flow increase over standard fittings. I've never measured it, but it definitely does make a noticeable difference, especially for demanding tools like sanders and impacts.
If you really want to get the most out of your system, keep your main regulator set just low enough to protect the lines, and set individual regulators at each drop location. Reasoning is two fold: lower losses/higher flow, and ability to run different pressures at each drop location. Just like the US power grid, you want to run your pressure as high as possible for as long as possible, and only regulate it to final pressure as close to the tool as possible.
What we did to straighten the hose; we took two 2x4’s about 4’ long and we cut a dado into each to make a channel to run the hose through. Then we pulled the entire coil of hose through it twice to straighten it. Then we tied one end of the hose to the shop wall (150ft shop) and tied the other to our tractor and stretched the hose over night. The result was nearly a perfectly straight hose to hang in the shop. Maybe overkill :)
A hose reel is absolutely the best thing I've ever installed in my garage.
Then you will also love an extension cord reel. Kind of the same but for electrical supply.
@@RemmorbLeime I installed 6 separate 20A (120v) quad receptacles and two 240v single phase receptacles. I'm never more than a few steps from power. Cable reels would be next to useless for me.
@@jeremyspecce I've got the Husky one from Home Depot. Picked it up on a whim. Been very happy with it.
I installed a few largge air systems in the states back in the mid 80s. We used pvc pipe joined with the standard blue pvc glue. It is rated at over 400 psi - more than adequate for a suply like your compressor with a 175 psi maximum.
We ran a ring around the workshop at below ceiling height - a ring so that there is no pressure drop at the far end of the pipe. All draw off points exited from the TOP of the ring then back down to the regulator / air draw off points which had a valve at the lowest point to drain moisture. Drops were taken from over the top so that moisture wouldn't run down to where air was being drawn. The ring also had a deliberate low point where a bleed valve was located to drain any moisture from the ring.
I had a mechanics shop in Australia for about 10 years and all the air to the shop was supplied in pvc pipes using the same setup. There were a couple of failed joints in the first week or so but after they were fixed it never leaked again.
The problem with using PVC in this way is that while it is rated for high pressures, it fails catastrophically, especially out in the air like this. It isn’t UV resistant, and degrades over time. So, yes, it can work, but might literally blow up in your face and send shards of pvc everywhere. It’s really not a good choice for pressurized air applications.
In case of mishaps, quick disconnects should always be pointed down. You do not want anything blown back at you at full pressure.
This oddly-specific niche video is absolutely invaluable to me! I took over a custom frame shop and inherited their compressor system - but I have NO idea what I'm looking at. I know how to turn it on and how to use it but if something were to go wrong, I would have absolutely no clue where to start. Watching this (and following the discourse in the comments) has helped me to identify basic parts of their system and to understand what they are, what they do, and why they are where they are. Amazing content! 👏
I have the exact same piping system in my garage. Love it. Of course I have a lot of battery operated tools so things like sanders, impact guns, and nailers don't get much use these days. Mine is mostly used for blowing dust/clean up, painting, and the air hammer for demo work.
Tip: the nicer flexible rubber hoses are sweet, but they rot out relatively quickly. This goes double for the one on the reel. Check them before you get knee deep into a project and find yourself with a half dozen leaks.
One small addition I made on my system is a 6" to 8" 'drip leg' between the multi-port block and the drain valve shown @ 8:26. This allows any water (condensate) that accumulates to fall -below- the outlet on the front face of the block. In the system shown in this video, any condensate just accumulates right AT the quick disconnect outlet. No Bueno friends! Great video and thanks!
Would you be kind enough to upload a short video about it?
Do you mean simply adding a 6-8” peice do that same pipe and then screwing in the quarter turn valve at the bottom?
My tip is that when you measure know that the size of the holes on your fittings will be much bigger than the parts name because of the npt system. If the hole actually measures 1/2” then it’ll be probably a 1/4” npt, I recommend looking up a chart so you’re not confused and buy the wrong parts
Will add that about the best thing to add to that tank is the electric auto drain. That will keep water at a minimum, and you will not have to remember to drain it every so often, plus it dumps the water before it can corrode the steel. Just have to arrange it so it operates with the compressor, so you will need to have a slightly more complex system of control, instead of the basic switch on the tank, though that will still be in use to control the compressor itself.
Normally up to 30 seconds of drain and up to 45 minutes of off time, I would, for hat kind of use, set to the longest off time, and around 5 seconds on time. Also they can be noisy, so put a big exhaust silencer on the dump side, though I went for a simpler solution and just used 5m of 5mm tubing, so the dynamic restriction made it quieter, but would not clog up at all with the little bits of rust trapped in the water. Maintenance on them is simply to check the mesh filter on it every so often, preferably every month depending on how corroded the tank itself is, along with the compressor oil.
Very important with any compressor tank is that it needs to be pressure tested every few years, actual time depends on where you are, by me it is 5 years. This will check the tank still is safe to use, and also the pressure valve, relief valve and switch are still operating correctly, and the tank is not going to fail. Especially on a big tank like that, they can destroy the workshop when they pop, and will often only have a tiny leak before they split along the weak point.
This video is wicked. I'm a LONG way off doing this in my shop. But, when I do, I'll definitely be coming back to this as a reference! Thanks Bob!! You're a legend.
Very cool. My former boss did pvc and it worked fine till I tripped on a hose and broke off the pvc at the connector. I disappeared into a cloud of dust lol. Next version was black pipe and that worked well. This looks nice and easy. Thanks!
@@jeremyspecce man that sounds sweet!
Nice job Bob! That system is sweet!
Yesssss right on my lunch break 😎
I have the exact same air compressor and same kit already, I was just looking up videos on how to do it and you are using the same thing!! Thank you so much! I’m starting my own business and I needed to get my shop lined.
At my last job, I did testing on pressure regulators. The compressor and tank were massive but I still managed to drain the tank. It was loud but very useful
The system had 1” and 2” steel pipe connections with some of that flexi-rigid plastic aluminum tubing
This system looks great. Nice work
This was exactly what I needed. I am going to be putting in a totally new system and I have never had one before. Thank you for this!!!!
HI there from NZ. So glad you and your Son were not injured. Wow...what a mess. This thing did some serious damage! I seem to remember that we kept our Compressor outside when I was doing commercial spray painting. Thanks for the warning! It's interesting that we have to get our Gas bottles tested every 10 yrs, but there is no testing requirements for an air compressor tank.
Yes! Lots more ghia content! I have a 57 beetle that I’ve been putting off body work on. I’m hoping to be inspired!
Great job on the video Bob! I know you weren’t sure whether to do one or not, but you nailed it.
Another good thing to add to your arsenal for your air tools is swivel joints. Hope that helps everybody out.
If you don’t wanna mess with straightening pipe, John Guest makes an excellent system with push fit couplers that’s really fast to install, as it uses all plastic tubes that can be cut with an oversized PEX cutter. I’d recommend upsizing the fixed pipe work as much as possible, as every foot of pipe introduces pressure loss, in my shop I think I went with 25mm internal diameter. Same with hose reels, you want a half inch fixed pipe feeding 3/8” hose. If you can get all your pipe work to slope down to a single spot, you can put an automatic water drain on that, only down side is that all the pipe work needs to go up to to the outlets, not down. Also have a look at CEJN couplers, they have a safety coupler that half releases, drains the pressure in the tool or hose you’re disconnecting, and only when the pressure is gone finally lets go of the tool, preventing you from shooting air tools all over the shop.
I have absolutely no need for an air compressor, or air compressor system, but i like this channel so much i watched the entirety anyway! The personality of Bob just lures you in.
Air compressor fittings and sizes are way more complicated than they need to be. Just one thing to note, be sure to use the V-Style couplers for your high flow tools like impacts, grinders, and sanders. They flow more than the traditional industrial and automotive style couplings. The V style are also backwards compatible so you can still connect them to the older fittings.
You should of just ordered a air tool holder organizer, you hang the tools by the bottom male side of the connector, for bigger tools like the impact you can use a piece of 2x4 to space it away from the wall.
Works great we have quite a few of them.
where do you buy them?
I bought this same airline system in 3/4" and love it! I got extra stations so i have a total of 8 stations.
I appreciate your comment about getting one of the hose reels even if you dont do all the rest. I've been contemplating it as I have a pancake and a slightly bigger sausage compressor. I plan on leaving one parked and hooked up to one of those reels. Seems like a way more simple cleanup than dealing with all the hose. Thanks for another great video!
Peep that Donut Media sticker on the toolbox. Would love to see that collab
That would be awesome, those guys are great!
I've been waiting for this one! Been contemplating plumbing air to the places I use it the most in the shop and this is very helpful. Thank you.
Starting at the start.
1: It would be nice if the first fitting on the tank was a street 90 then ball valve. As connected now the flexible air hose has some extra strain on it as it has to sweep through 180 degrees instead of just 90 .
2: Isolation between the tank feet and the concrete floor. Cork pads wrapped with rubber are common and adequate.
3: Those M size fittings are somewhat restrictive for tools needing high CFM.
4: Ideally the drops coming off of the main line should come off the top of the line so that any water precipitate in the line doesn't run down the drop, collect, and contaminate the air flow when you eventually use that particular drop.
5: The main line, ideally, should have a continuous slope downwards to the furthest end where it should have means to purge and drain any water, oil or other contaminates that may have collected in that run.
6: Equipment such as a sandblaster, a plasma arc cutter or paint sprayers must have clean dry air. A water filter followed by desiccant dryer should be installed/utilized as close as possible to the point of usage. On a cabinet sandblaster mounting an air drying system on the cabinet would be recommended. On your pressure pot sandblaster dry air is not as critical as the blasting media (sand) isn't be recirculated and reused.
I recently upgraded my compressor and I can tell you that your installation is impressive! Congratulations!
Very nice job Bob. Very nice video. This video was very nice and very helpful and definitely useful and information. Thanks so much. Can't wait to see more videos soon Bob. Hopefully you get great use out of it for many years to come Bob. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.
Hi I have been a fan for a long time always love the videos.
Awesome! Thank you!
Is this Bob or somebody else?
All that and ya left the compressor on the pallet :).
If you ever take it off the pallet, you'll want it on some anti-vibration pads, and you bolt it to the floor but leave the bolts a little loose. You don't want the compressor rigidly attached to the floor.
You can leave the tank filled all the time, you just need to periodically purge it. This can be done manually but there are electronic valves that will purge a small amount of air from the tank every x number of minutes. For your case, remote location, you're not at all the time probably not a big deal, but it was a game changer just being able to leave my compressor on all the time and have it ready to go.
On the quick connectors, there are different types - Automotive, Industrial, and ARO. They have "universal" versions (both male and female) but I've have not had good luck with those (they leak). I recommend you pick the standard for your shop and stick with that. I picked industrial and just swap the fitting on tools if needed.
The piping system Bob used is probably overkill for most people. The same company (RapidAir) makes an all plastic (no metal insert) version that works great and is less expensive.
Great video! Love the system you constructed. Not sure why you omitted this, but I wish you had provided more information about the CFM and PSI and how they impact the selection of an air compressor.
You just check the air consumption of the tools you want to use. That is pretty much all there is to it...
We put that same system in our shop, and my buddy ordered it to outfit his garage. Absolutely great system.
I have pretty much all the same stuff in my garage just waiting for warmer days to actually install. Glad to see I was on the right track when impulse buying it all!
Grappler130 has it exactly! You need to run your air line at least 25' before installing any type filter to give the warm air time to cool down or it will not condense the water. So that being said, the water filter system you have shown will not do anything to take out any water. Simply move the water filter system 25' downstream and yur good to go. Try it and let me know if you're in agreement!
Yep . . . NEEDED this! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for showing this process…I purchased this product a while ago and you just gave me the push to install it
Good stuff! I had a similar setup in my old shop and was missing it so I finally got a chance to redo it in my new shop. I used to not even want to use my compressor now it's so convenient.
One thing to remember when you’re buying couplers is there are 3 different kinds; automotive, industrial and universal. If you connect an automotive coupler to an industrial coupler you will get leaks. Universal couplers ( in my experience) leak with everything, and this is why a lot of the time air tools don’t come with a coupler.
Yep, most people will just junk the connectors when they get the tool, plus it reduces the cost by a couple bucks.
I asked the fitter at work about that and he said they’re all the same. Sheesh 🙄
@@TheAussiePirate they do look extremely similar but there are small differences in design. It’s hard to describe but if you look at an automotive and industrial male coupler side by side you’ll see that they are different
I've been using the Milton V-style high-flow fittings, and they work really well.
Nice setup! The one thing you didn't mention about PVC is that it's not recommended because when it fails it tends to shatter and at pressure that basically turns it into a frag grenade. Even if the PVC is rated for the pressure you are running, when you stop using a tool that sends a shockwave back through the system and PVC can't handle that at all. That's how it ends up failing most of the time from what I've seen.
Also, your connectors (especially on the harbor freight hose reel) are severely limiting your setup. Replacing them with high flow connectors will improve things by a significant amount. It's shocking. When I was first building up my setup I had 1/4 hose and connectors everywhere because it was cheap. Even on a system that restrictive, moving to high flow connectors made a world of difference. When I stepped up to a 3/8 system I tested and again the difference from "normal" to high-flow connectors was amazing. In some cases (like an air gun to blow dust away) the 1/4 hose with high flow connectors beat the 3/8 hose with "normal" connectors.
I have a two car garage and didn't need to run a bunch of pipe which helps get the water out of the lines. So I made a 80 linear foot copper radiator that sits between the compressor and my hose reel.
This is great. Reminds me of the DIY dust collector... wait, has it really been seven years!?!?
Time flies when watching ILTMS. 😁
Can we please get a bloopers/ outtakes compilation 🙏🏻 would watch it on end for days
This is a really nice video for this subject. I don't have a big compressor but the tubing that you used to plumb your air-system looks like a great choice!
It looks like you're only using standard 1/4" fittings. You can get better performance from some of your tools if you use higher flow fittings. Either larger fittings that step down to 1/4" or 1/4" high-flow fittings would work well.
You could pick one or two spots to use the higher-flow fittings. This would let you use high-flow tools while letting your shop still be compatible with standard 1/4" fittings.
I put in the same system. I love it. But one thing i did that you didnt is i put regulators on the blocks but used a T fitting just before so i have unregulated air for running impacts or what not. I know they say 90 psi or whatever but they work way better at 160 lol
the pipe in that kit seems really cool. Thanks for sharing that with us
A piston compressor is LOTS quieter than a diaphragm compressor. I had a 5hp diaphragm style compressor that was too loud to be in the same room while it was working. The nice thing about a diaphragm compressor is that the output air is oil-free. A piston compressor will leak some oil into the output air. If you're going to use air to paint stuff, you need a dryer and a good filter to catch the oil from the compressor. If you're using pneumatic tools, they need oil to reliably operate. It would be a good idea to set up two separate air supply lines, one with dryers and filters and one with a oiler for the tools. Just mark the hose connections so you don't mix them up.
There is also a automatic valve to release a bit of air with each compressor start to drain any condensation collected in the tank.
Excellent video packed with facts. I was not aware of the piping alternative. I’ll be watching this one again when I tackle the compressor upgrade (not as beefy as yours)
Want. Have literally zero need for such a system. Still.....want. Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
an impressive vid. clear, simple, logical. thanks for your effort.
Nice video. Thank you. I did the same thing at my home. 60 gal out in the garage with airlines running thru the house/garage. All copper lines. Electric valve on the tank with switches in the garage and basement shop. I can barely hear it in the house. It only runs for 2 min. sitting on round marine dock bumpers with machined top caps. greatly reduces noise.
Regarding the comment on quick connect fittings- "This part is pretty standard". Not at all the case and can be a headache if you don't buy all of your fittings together and/or pay attention to what you're getting. M vs A vs T vs V style have subtle but very real profile differences. What's worse is some are compatible between types male to female but not female to male. Then you've got regular and high-flow with similar issues. Most you'll find at Lowes are Industrial or M-Style but I see Automotive T available there as well.
Hey, I’ve done this type of work for over 35 years you made a few mistakes if you’re worried about moisture. I don’t think will be that much of a problem but I don’t know where you live. Some of the best things that you could do is extend that quarter inch line on the bottom at least 3 feet and this is called dirt leg all the moisture hopefully will drop to the lowest point to let let gravity do the work, Another thing I was done differently your blocks have your fittings point up towards the ceiling extend it slightly then go down this is gravity working for you.
Your points are good thank you! Can you please try to elaborate on your last point? I don’t fully understand what your saying about the blocks having the fittings pointing up?
I saw an amazing setup a month ago for keeping moisture out of the tank by running the compressed air through a radiator that was mounted in line with the fan then the air goes through a water separator and then it goes into the tank
That's what I'm looking at for my shop. First saw Steve Summers use this on his shop rebuild.
When using a paint gun, you want the most flexible hose you can find to attach to the gun. About 15 to 20 feet long. You can hook that to a normal less flexible hose for reach. You also want a second water trap between that hose and your wall mounted hoses. You need a good 20 or 30 foot of air line to get the water to condense properly. If you are painting in a really humid area, you can wrap a roll of hose up in a cooler with ice and have super dry air. When spraying take the flexible hose and wrap it around your arm so that it hangs off your elbow. If you want to get really serious, I have seen guys tie the hose to their belt behind them and keep the hose in tight, but I have had good luck with one or two wraps around my arm.
I’ll add that there are multiple types of couplings - e.g. industrial, automotive, ARO, etc. that you may find at your local store. I see you are using the Industrial type and that is the most common and most new tools will come with that coupling type when buying a new tool (if they come with a coupling). The other thing to consider is the size of the coupling. A 1/4 inch coupling on a 3/8 inch hose is restricted to the amount of air the coupling can flow and your air tool may need more to operate at full power. For example, many impact guns will not develop full torque on a 1/4 inch coupling. You need to use either a 3/8 inch coupling or a high flow 1/4 inch.
I'm anticipating those tools to be put back there like... 5 times max haha
Great video!
Oh as well look into Milton quality quick connects honestly they last longer and work better honestly cause they are usually your limiting factor on airflow that's why they make the new v series
09:00 A 1/2 x 1/4 brass reducing bushing should be available just about everywhere. You local hardware store, auto supply stores, plumbing supplies, and big box stores will all have them in stock as well as other sizes of reducers and various fittings like tees, elbows, service ells, 45s, etc.
Yeah, I don't know why he couldn't find them, should be on the shelves of most any Home Depot or Lowes.
@@andrewalexander9492 They are
Even if you have a dinky compressor, buying a half decent impact to work on a car in addition to your hand tools and maybe your cordless will really save you some time.
There are some bolts on cars that just will not budge. Unless you have a very good electric impact or can use a long breaker bar, a pneumatic is the only thing that will break them.
So for the first year I did car maintenance in my driveway I had just a little 2 gallon compressor, but that was enough to drive the impact for the second or two it takes to break something loose.
Great vid, Bob! Only thing that I have a question on is why didn't you teflon tape any of the threads of the fittings you installed on the compressor?
I think that's where his leaks are that he mentioned. I was wondering this too was he was installing.
For a small run like what you have there your setup is fine but if you do anything bigger you want to connect your main run of piping in a loop with drops running off that. This way you get consistent pressure at at ports. Great video!
Bob...was that a Donut sticker? Well played sir. Well played.
I really liked the metric conversions, thanks
Also should say getting an air dryer is like night and day in cooler climates. My shop has had air line problems for a couple years. Finally set up the air dryer, after finding a 20 inch long price of rust in the line, blocking off the air to about 1/16 of air going throughz
Nice set up for the shop. You put a maze of up and down loops between drier and the compressor. Put a drain at each loop bottom. As the gas cools it will condensate. You might want to help the drier work better by using a bit more pipe to allow the air to cool more before the drier. Not sure it will be an issue, but if your seeing a bunch of water in spots that maybe something keep in mind. When painting I water spots are no bueno.
That was a great video but u can modify a couple things is that on your retracting hose reel that black knob that by your quick connect u can change bring it closer or farther from the quick disconnect coupler and it will change how high or low u want the hose to come down so that u dont have to reach up and grab it it can rest at a comfortable height to where when u need it it right there and u grab it. Also to instead of that coil hose as a temporary connector of your drain box at the end of the blue hose line to the reel either shorten it where the beam is leading to the reel and connecting a hose straight to it or run it along the beam or a T-Connector where the beam right by the reel so that it gives it a cleaner look
Nice set up. I have a similar one I set up about 10 years ago I did it with pex. No issues
Pex is fine, im a plumber, I actually test all the pipe with air, I also leave 120 psi on the pex so if someone hits it they know, sometimes it has to hold for months before the air is taken out. Very cheap and easy to work with
Wish I saw this system when I was plumbing my shop air... also, that compressor is huge!
If you want high output with lower sound check out the twin screw compressor. Eastwood has one for around 2k. Not cheap but great output and sound isn't bad
As someone looking to buy a larger compressor and maximize a one car garage without hoses everywhere, this was a perfectly timed video 👌🏼
A few years ago I bought a silent compressor (brand Whispair). The best investment I ever did!
Another great video! Hi I'm Mike and like to watch BOB make stuff!!
Nice system.
I prefer the quick connects that do not require 2 hands to connect. All you have to do is push them on and they lock automatically. This works great when the pressure is above 100 PSI. Also I don't use my compressor a lot so I wired a light into the switch so I remember to turn it off when I am not using it so that my small leak won't cause the compressor to cycle endlessly.
Two things 1. that compressor should be bolted to the floor with the vibration of motor that pallet can move. And 2 I've never seen an industrial install use copper everyone I've seen uses "black iron" pipe.
Wrong. My 80 gallon is on a pallet. Installed 3 years ago. Not bolted to the floor. The pallet position was marked on the floor. It has not moved at all in three years.
Yoo this is awesome! that's the same setup we use in our assembly shop! Really cool seeing it all put together like that.
Hi, you not only need a line filter but a line dryer system, and more if you live in a cold area and if you're going to paint with it.
I worked in a machine shop for years that used pvc hot water pipe. I was always told that that PVC would eventually weaken and explode. It does weaken over time but it doesn't explode. It cracks, usually near a connection. A couple of dollars worth of parts and a few minutes and you're back in business. Over the years I worked there I may have fixed maybe 4 or 5 leaks. I use it it for my home shop air and I've never had to fix a leak, and I have a large air compressor like Bob has there. I've never had a leak and that's going on 15 years now. I have one of those hose reels as well. He's right they are amazing. I mounted mine near the main door to my shop so I could use it outside for putting air in tires and messy jobs I don't want to get all over the shop.
Great video! I've been waiting for this one since you mentioned in on Making It!
THANKS for the video. Keep up the good work 👍
No problem 👍
Very informative like usual.. take it easy on your joints and tendons, Bob. We still want to learn more from you!!
You're a good explainer! And a good outtake sharer.