30,000 Mile Interval Service
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
Learn how to perform a 30k mile service on your 3rd Generation Toyota 4runner but the info provided translates to other vehicles as well.
This includes:
*Changing the engine oil & filter
*Front and rear differential oil changes
*Transfer case oil change
*Transmission fluid drain & refill
*Air filter renewal
*Greasing the u-joints and slip yokes on the driveshafts
*Brake inspection.
We discuss how to drain and refill the radiator but don't actually do it. You can see a drain and refill of the radiator coolant in my transmission cooler install video. • Cooling System Flush
Here's a list of times when different services happen so you can easily jump to the part you'd like to see:
Engine Oil and Filter Change - 6:37
Engine Coolant Renewal - 17:15
Front Differential Oil Renewal - 18:19
Trans Fluid Drain and Refill - Starts @ 26:45 and then resumes @28:56
Transfer Case Oil Renewal - Starts @ 27:45 and then resumes @30:30
Rear Differential Oil Renewal - 32:49
Air Filter Replacement - 34:45
Brake Inspection - 35:36
U-Joint and Slip Yoke Greasing - 38:50
*PARTS*
*Engine Oil Filter #90915-YZZD3 (Higher capacity than the original ones. They're a little taller)
This link is for a pack of 5: amzn.to/3fxrOIv
*Air Filter #17801-07020
amzn.to/348PPPw
*Auto Transmission Drain Plug Crush Washer #35178-30010
www.ebay.com/i...
*Transfer Case Fill & Drain Plug Washers #90430-A0003 (10 Pack)
amzn.to/2OFhrW3
*Rear Differential Drain & Fill Plug Crush Washers and Front Differential Fill Plug Crush Washer #12157-10010 (10 Pack)
amzn.to/37Et8VI
*Front Differential Drain Plug Copper Washer #90430-24003
amzn.to/37uARFO
*Engine Oil Pan Drain Plug Washer #90430-12031 (10 Pack)
amzn.to/3vyQfBt
*SUGGESTE FLUIDS/GREASE* (Different from Video. I upgraded my vehicles to full synthetic)
*Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 5W-30 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil
amzn.to/2QIp00L
*Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic ATF
amzn.to/2Oaco0F
*Red Line 75W90 GL-5 Full Synthetic Gear Oil (I use this for the transfer case and both differentials)
amzn.to/33eDHeq
*Toyota Red Long Life Coolant Concentrate (Need to mix with distilled water to make a 50/50 mix)
amzn.to/37lyhBL
*Distilled Water - Get this at a grocery store
*Lucas Oil Heavy Duty Grease (For all u-joints and slip yokes - Recommended by a driveline shop local to me)
amzn.to/2ObZAH0
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*6 Ton Jack Stands
amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Oil Drain Pan
amzn.to/2QK6kh9
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set
amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
amzn.to/2OehCao
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
amzn.to/32WIh0M
*Engine Oil Filter Wrench
amzn.to/2pK7Ftl
*Metric Allen Head Socket Set
amzn.to/3Mfbag7
*Gear Oil Pump
amzn.to/37xiCQ0
*1/2” Drive Breaker Bar - 12” Long
amzn.to/2OCN5U7
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet
amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
amzn.to/35dKQwW
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun
amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt Batteries
amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger
amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*Plastic Mallet
amzn.to/2CCOqVP
*Grease Gun
amzn.to/2UrRGtN
*CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench
amzn.to/2UPhyjK
*CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench
amzn.to/2U2vUA4
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
Thank You so much for spending your time and talents making these videos. They are absolutely second to none. Timmy and Sean, you're keeping my dream alive. 🤟
Thanks for the kind words Joe. We appreciate it!
Hi Timmy. I finished all the service items on my vehicle today. I worked my way through them over a few weeks, following the steps in your video. My vehicle is really good to drive now, feels so smooth, refined, and is better than when I bought it earlier this year. I just wanted to say thank you for the wealth of info you provide in your channel and the satisfaction I gained doing things myself. I am much more confident on the tools, and the detail in your videos tells me exactly what to look for and what to expect. Really appreciate your effort.
This is all really great to hear Andrew. Doing you're own work is a very satisfying experience not to mention all the knowledge you gain in the process that you can pass on to others. Hearing comments like yours really puts a smile on our faces because this is what we're all about, empowering people to do their own automotive work. You're very welcome Andrew and Happy Wrenching!
Timmy the Toolman for President
Thanks for the vote but i wouldn't want that job. Doesn't look like much fun. Wrenching on 3rd Gen 4runners and making videos is way better.
I will be posting up my rig soon on T4R, you will definitely have a shout-out as you have made my life way easier, ordering most of my fluid stuff today from the dealer and getting alignment/tires mounted this week.
Seydzh Chernopiski Well, Sean and I are always stoked to hear our videos have been helpful to people. It's feedback like this that keeps us motivated. Thanks!
Is the masterpro gear oil alright? I just picked some up and was wondering if yours caused any issues or whatnot? I bought the 75w90 for front diff and transfer case and the 80w90 for the rear diff
It's working fine for me. You could always choose a synthetic gear oil but I'm just using conventional oil and fluids in my rig.
The lighting wasn't the greatest in some areas of the video, especially the part where I'm removing and replacing the engine oil filter, but we added some additional footage to make up for what you couldn't see. I almost made a mistake thinking the front differential drain plug didn't have a washer because I didn't see it fall into the drain pan. I hope this video was helpful to you and if you have any questions, please ask.
Outstanding video and special thanks for the details on the washers!! You are awesome man!!
Thanks and you're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
Great video!
Just a few thoughts, additions if you would of what helped me:
I spent about 30 min to an hour trying to get an oil filter wrench on that filter, if you are fighting for it, I just got on a pair of work gloves (that are textured for grip), and came in from the fender well, if the filter wasn't over tight to begin with you should be to just remove it with your hands.
Also, for those that get twisted with lefty loosey/righty tighty like me, I figured use the right hand rule, put your thumb in the direct you want (in or out) and then your fingers will give the direction in which you have to twist.
Those in the rust belt, I take the extra step and degrease the under carriage, and apply a fresh coat of fluid film, (or just spray those brake lines with fluid film) I think it goes a long way.
Thanks for the great video, I learned a lot
Hey Tim, after watching so many of your videos I've decided I'm just going to have to break down and I'll get a 2000 Toyota service manual because my wife's 4 runner is a 2000 and my 4Runner is a 98. See what you've done Tim, you've inspired me!
Smart move and you won't regret having the manuals. It's such a helpful resource that you will get tons of use from. You'll most likely find a set for sale on Ebay for a decent price. Great to hear our videos have inspired you. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy the tool man the only reason I can afford to keep my Toyota 4Runner.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, being able to do your own work saves you tons of money. We are proud of the fact that our videos give people the confidence to do their own work.
@@TimmyTheToolman now i have 2 4RUNNER. I just Got my 5speed 4x4.
@@flexapex9801 Nice! I would like a 5speed too.
@@TimmyTheToolman I’m in the south if I find a good one I’ll let you know. Carolinas clean frames. And they’re much cheaper than the West Coast
@@flexapex9801 Ok, thanks.
No matter how much you try to keep it clean something always happens. Last time I changed my oil I put the oil bucket off to the side and not remembering after 15 minutes stepped into it. Geez!!! Great vids brother.
Yeah, shit happens. I made a freaking mess when we shot this video.
Timmy, this was such a great resource when I got my '98 4Runner a couple of years ago (and still is a great resource). I got all of these fluids changed at that time, including my manual tranny fluid. I'm the original owner of my 2004 Tacoma, and sad to say, I've never changed the automatic transmission fluid on it, and I'm at 148k miles. I've read arguments for and against flushing the fluid at this point, and I've settled on just draining and re-filling every 10k miles like you mentioned here (until further notice). My owners manual says to use Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV, and I think you're using Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic Dexron VI, Mercon LV, DEX/Merc (which could be different requirements for the 4Runner). I bought some of that (the Max Life...), and although it doesn't say it on the front, the back of the bottle does say "recommended for use in Toyota Type T-IV," so I think that would be ok, right? Just want to be sensitive with what I use on this since I'm introducing new fluid for the first time. Thanks!
Smart choice to do drain and refills. Better late than never. Yes, the Maxlife would be fine for your trans. Your 2004 Tacoma is a 1st Gen Tacoma and 1st Gen Tacomas and 3rd Gen 4runners have the exact same drivetrains. There's some small differences in the transmission and transfer cases over the years, but they're essentially very similar. The original spec called for Dexron 3. I'm guessing by 2004, Toyota decided to recommend their own oil. You're welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Hey Timmy The Tool Man & Sean, I want to thank you both for the kick ass videos.. story goes .. bought a '95 Tacoma 5VZ-FE 4x4 and not having the cash for a mechanic took the gamble on the truck because it checked out on a report & passed smog, etc. after driving after a month or so i realized it was BLEEDING oil, leaking water pump or thermostat or both and feared what else was goin on. Sooooo.... fearing the cost of labor for a mechanic & possibly not finding an honest mechanic I found your videos and started from the rear to front of this truck. This thing has been so neglected at 220,000 miles. I've changed out all my fluids, replaced drums n shoes & all hardware, bled the lines, brand new shocks n struts, replaced front pads n discs, valve cover gaskets, and just finished timing belt, water pump n seals thanks to you & Sean!..... didn't mean to write cha a novel here but I just wanted you both to know how much I appreciate step by step video, tips, hints & for taking it serious & torque specs!! ( even though mine differ here n there lol) .... i feel pretty secure about this truck now & yep, I'm a chick that did this hahaa ..... love it! & you guys have taught me so much... Thank you!!
You're very welcome and thank you for sharing your story. It's our goal to Educate and Empower people to tackle their own automotive work and stories like yours always brings a smile to our faces. Who knows how much money you saved doing all this work yourself, but it's probably at least a couple thousand dollars.
You've learned that a lot of auto mechanics is not really that hard, right? With the right information, the right tools, and a little patience, you can do quite a bit without relying on shops that charge anywhere from $100 - $150/Hour labor rates.
Thanks for taking the time to comment Little Rabbit. Happy Wrenching! #GirlPower
Tim love your work! I pickup my 2000 runner this week and cant wait to jump in following your lead! thank you!
Welcome to the club David. If you have any questions along the way, don't hesitate to ask.
Thanks Tim, I'm sure I'll have a few :) Planning to document my journey on t4r.org. Just curious from the videos I've scene so far I've noticed you dont use air tools, any reason why not? thanks!
Hey Dave, when I started getting into more auto mechanics, I thought about getting an air compressor and air tools but learned cordless impacts were pretty darn strong so I went that route. I think cordless is a good way to go for several reasons. With cordless, you don't need a loud air compressor that takes up room in your garage. You don't have to deal with air lines snaking around and getting hooked on things. And, there's no maintenance with cordless. They either work or they don't. I know air tools are superior in strength over cordless, but since I have so much crap in my garage, mainly bicycles, I figured cordless was the smart way to go.
I've used my cordless impacts in many videos. I now have 3 Dewalt guns, Two 1/2" drive guns and one 3/8" drive. I also really like using my Milwaukee M12 cordless ratchet. The Milwaukee isn't strong so I often break fasteners free with a standard ratchet and then spin them off with the Milwaukee. Saves a lot of time turning a ratchet, especially in tight quarters.
As I think you probably already know, Sean and I are very active on T4R. My screen name is "mtbtim" and Sean's is "infamousRNR". Sean has a build thread so you should check his out. Happy Wrenching Dave.
Hey Tim, as always thanks for the thorough reply! I had the opportunity to buy some air tools during black friday so I couldn't pass it even though I would've preferred cordless. I managed to get a 1/2 impact wrench, 3/8 air ratchet and 119 pc impact socket and tool set for 300 CAD which is roughly 210 USD. I already had a small air compressor so it made the purchase that much easier.
Thanks for the screen names i'll definitely add Seans build thread to my build thread list!
Ok, thank you for that Tim! Really appreciate ur help and response so quick. Keep watching everyone, u'll learn a ton!
Thank you Sir for your guidance.
You're welcome Tim.
Like what your videos, don't stop.
tom james We like what we're doing too so no plans on stopping any time soon.
Great videos! These are the most thorough videos for Toyota 4Runners I've found anywhere. I looked up the service manual for my 2002 4Runner. About $300.00 for the two book set. Since I plan on keeping this 4Runner until the body rots off, ( I live in Maine) Those books are a good investment to make.
I had to change out my starter a few months back, did it somewhat the same way that you did, but I couldn't get the transmission dipstick tube out. I was worried about breaking something so I ended up dropping the sway bar down to remove the starter from the same hole where you put the ratchet extension in, from like 3 feet back underneath. Was a pain in the neck and cold as hell outside when I had to do it, but it saved me a lot of money. Used a bottle jack to raise the sway bar back into place and tightened everything up once the new starter was in place.
Great job on the videos!
Glad you like our videos. Yes, having the Factory Service Manuals is a huge help. I looked for a while and then bought a set for $300 as well. You'll be happy you bought them.
Watching you do your repairs makes me jealous to see how clean the underside is and how easy the nuts come undone. You guys in Cali are spoiled...no rust.
I got the 3 volume repair manual set for my 02 Tacoma on Amazon for $106 and 26$ for shipping! Great deal!
That front diff super clean now!
I reckon it is I reckon.
Oustanding detail! Thanks, Tim you guys are top Toyota mechanics.
Thanks Tarzan. We appreciate the nice compliment.
Great video! Just bought a 4runner and helped me out to do the fluid changes! Saved me some money!!
Cool. Welcome to the 3rd Gen 4runner Club!
awesome tutorial man... thanks for taking the time to record, edit and post this up!
No problem. The whole goal is to empower people to do their own work so they can save themselves some money. I think a large percentage of people are intimidated to work on their own vehicles. By making videos like this, it's hopefully inspiring people to give auto mechanics a try.
Excellent as per usual. You guys set the bar high. Only comment I have is maybe add time links to the description for the different services. Would make it easier to use as a reference.
Hey Daniel, thanks for the suggestion and I think I'll do that. Sean actually wants to divide the video into several smaller videos for the different services.
Hey Daniel, I finally followed your suggestion. I added times into the video description so people can jump to the part they'd like to see.
Awesome!! I'm watching the driveshaft grease section...I bought a pistol grip grease gun off amazon and some valvoline grease. A friend of mine with a 4runner said that it wouldn't have enough power to do anything since our trucks are old and the zerks are probably rusty. Is this bs? Here is the one I got:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MD4YKM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The grease (safe to use this on all of them? I'd rather not buy two guns...)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ4DK0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Unless you're dealing with some serious rust problems, I'd have to say your friend doesn't know what he's talking about. Just clean off the zerk fitting before you push the grease gun fitting onto it.
For the u-joints, pump grease until you get some squeezing out of the ends of the joint. Then wipe off the fitting and any in the joint you can get to. Some grease is going to spit out under the truck due to the centrifugal force and it's normal to see.
For the front driveshaft slip yoke, have the truck resting on jack stands on the frame with the wheels off the ground. Give it around 4-5 pumps and call it good. If you see the driveshaft start to expand while you're doing this, stop. Take the zerk fitting out, I think it's an 8mm, and let any excess grease ooze out. Unless you 4wheel a lot, the front driveshaft won't require much greasing compared to the rear driveshaft that's turning all the time.
If this is your first time greasing the rear driveshaft slip yoke, I'd do the following: With wheels off the ground and the truck resting on jack stands on the frame, pump the zerk fitting until you see the driveshaft start to expand a tiny bit and stop. Remove the zerk fitting and get the truck back on it's wheels. Now get on the bumper and jump up and down to actuate the suspension to push out any excess grease out of the slip yoke. Reinstall the zerk fitting. The reason for using plenty of grease for the rear slip yoke is because of my and many other 4runner owner's experience with the rear slip yoke binding problem. If you develop the bumping problem like I had, reference the first two videos I made on this subject. The Ford XG-8 grease fixed my problem.
I believe using the same grease for all applications is fine and the one you chose to use is similar to what I'm using on my rig. I only have two different grease guns because one is filled with the special Ford grease I use for the rear slip yoke.
During this whole process, I have the transmission in neutral and the parking brake off so I can turn the driveshaft to get to all the zerk fitting easily. I hope this answered your questions.
Yes that is BS. To add to Timmy's sound commentary, if you have a problem with a zerk fitting, just replace it with a new one. You can get a bag of them for a couple bucks at any auto parts store.
THank you for this, just went down the list and bought everything that still linked from Amazon.
You're welcome Will. Hope the all the maintenance goes smooth for you.
had my 99 4x4 4runner for about 6 month's, bought it from a dealership said it's was mechanically sound but I've found a few things wrong with it, rust and front skid plate held on with zip tie.... but I love my 3rd gen need to put some work in, great videos keep up the good work!
Limit zone sounds like the one I brought too, air con wasn’t working and noticed the compressor pump was missing and all sorts of other messed up things but I love it
I just completed the front/rear differential and transfer case, thanks Timmy! I thought I’d breakdown each one with washer part numbers etc.
FRONT: Drain washer part number 90430-24003.
Fill: 12157-10010
TRANSFER CASE:
Drain and Fill: 90430-A0003
REAR:
Drain and Fill: 12157-10010
I got a quote from our local Toyota dealership and it was $300 to change all three fluids, wow! Anyway, do it yourself and save a ton, hope this info helps. I ordered all the washers from Amazon.
Good job getting the job done Tom. You're very welcome.
Another great video. I’m getting ready to do this to my 4runner. Much appreciated.
Thanks and you're welcome. Good luck with all the preventative maintenance.
Great descriptive video again Tim. Well presented.
If you get the washer "kit" from your dealer with the diffs and transfer case washers... just note that the aluminum washers are for the aluminum transfer case.
Yep, you are correct. Good advice.
thanks. that made my day
Right on! It's cool to know we made somebody's day. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Excellent video, thanks for taking us along!
titanic sauce thanks for the comment! We appreciate it!
You're welcome and we're glad you like the video. Happy Maintaining of your rig.
My 4Runner is 1996 3.4L it needs 6.5 quarts with a oil change. I use a K&N with a 1" nut on top.
That's interesting. The most I've ever used is 6 quarts to get it full on the dipstick.
Just an FYI: One thing I learned about Toyota skid plates in fact any skid plates was that I always flush them out with brake cleaner and then use compressed air with a small nozzle and cleaned the threads out from the top and including blowing any debris and or using a wire brush to clean the threads. I have seen several Toyota trucks and other brands but multi Toyota having those threads stripped because of some small matter like rock or some other debris had gotten the thread and just made something simple, much more difficult
That sounds like a good technique to keep the threads clean to avoid stripping the threads. However, I have another theory on how those threads get stripped. I know for a fact the previous owners of my truck never worked on it themselves. They always took it to the dealership or some other auto repair place. The guys working at these shops always use air guns to save time and I'm pretty confident they often cross thread or over-tighten the skid pan bolts because they are in a rush to get to the next job. If I bought my truck brand new, the skid pan female threads on the frame and the bolts would have been in much better shape than when I bought it used 3 years ago because I know I would have been more careful than the paid mechanics. I've had to re-tap many of the threads and have replaced most of the bolts.
There are good mechanics out there, but I'm learning that I can do just as good of a job or better than the paid guys because I'm in no rush.
Absolutely true about shops and dealers, they're on the clock, more like a chronometer! Breaker bar to break loose, impact to remove. Hand start at least 4 turns, then ratchet or wrench. Old school master technician, my father. Over 40 years working on engines!
You should get your dad to make some repair videos. Sounds like we could learn a ton from him.
Awesome video, as always! Keep up the good work!!
Thanks so much tim, Sean, & friends!
I bought a 02 limited 4x4 like 3 weeks ago. Ive been slowly doing maintenance stuff and I've done almost all of the stuff on this vid +/- some jobs bc stuff was still clean. I still need to do fuel filter, trans filter (gonna wait a bit bc I just put new fluid in), spark plugs, lbj, steering rack bushings, and water pump/t-belt. Am I missing anything else?
Can wait to start putting in siccc mods!
You're very welcome. Sounds like you have most things I'd suggest except maybe replacing the radiator as preventative maintenance and considering adding an external trans cooler. We have a video for it: ruclips.net/video/2nVbwe2t2T8/видео.html Good luck with all the planned work and have fun with your rig. If you have questions along the way, you know where to find us. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for the video very informative and entertaining as well :)
Glad you liked the video Henry and thanks for taking the time to comment.
Great video! Thank you Tim & Sean. I did change all of the drain plugs with magnetic ones from goldplug.com. I highly recommend these as they can hold a heavy tool with their magnets. Just use their website guide for fitment specs. I used Redline MT-90 for the 5spd. Trans and transfer case. I also used Lucas 75a-90 for the front and rear diffs. Keep up the great work and videos coming!😉👍
The goldplug.com also makes them for the motor which I forgot to mention. They also make a great solution for the front differential, in a bolt type for giant socket instead of an alien or hex type. Got that one too!👍
Glad you like the video and thanks for the link to the website. The ones I'd definitely like to get are the front differential fill and drain plugs. It would be nice to get rid of those allen head plugs. Thanks for the comment.
Good job. I had a hard time replacing the oil filter. I had to use 1/2 " breaker bar and sockets vs 3/4" since some of the screws were stuck. I did not have to lift the vehicle. The job took longer than expected. Following are the specs for a 1998 Toyota 4Runner LIMITED 3.4L V6 AT
Tools you will need
================
• Torque Wrench
• Socket wrench
• 24 mm socket
• 10 mm hex bit
• 10 mm socket
• 12 mm socket to Remove skid plate
• Oil pan
• Quart and Gallon fluid pump
• Transmission Funnel
• Oil filter wrench
• Grease pump for Spiders & Sliders Containers (Quarts)
• dyno MolyLith Grease Synthetic Mobil 1 Grease
• Pump to suck the fluids Tube and plugs to plug the steering reservoir
U-Joint and Slip Yoke Greasing
see notes below along with a link
Socket sizes and torque
=======================
• Engine Oil drain plug 14 mm socket 29 ft/lb
• Engine Oil Filter N/A By Hand + ¼ turn
• Auto Transmission drain 14 mm socket 15 ft/lb
• Transfer case drain 24mm socket 27 ft/lb
• Transfer case fill plug 24mm socket 27 ft/lb
• Front Differential fill plug 10mm Allen 29 ft/lb
• Front Differential Drain plug 10mm Allen 48 ft/lb
• Rear Differential fill plug 24mm socket 36 ft/lb
(Loosen Parking brake
)
• Rear Differential Drain plug 24mm socket 36 ft/lb
Fluid types and Qty (Make sure your vehicle is on level ground )
==================
• Engine Oil 5W-30 (specs shown on oil cap) 5.5 to 6.5 or 7 Qrts --- 1998 usually takes 7 Qrts. Start with 5.5 first and keep adding a bit at a time as needed.
• Auto Transmission Fluid Specs Dexron III Compatible (e.g. per Tim Valvoline Mercon V Part 822345 ) 2.1 ~ 5Qrts
Note 1: Transmission fluid Dexron II is what is shown on dip stick and on the drain plug . However, Per Tim - you can use with Dexron III compatible (do not use Dexron IV or V)
Note 2: To get a better idea on much you need to refill the transmission, drain the transmission fluid in a milk jug that is pre-marked in quart increments. Place it in an oil pan to catch any overflow.
• Transfer case Fluid 75W - 90 1+ Qrt (little over 1 Qrt)
• Front Differential Fluid 75W - 90 ~1.2 Qrts
• Rear Differential Fluid 80W - 90 2.9 Qrts with Rear Locker or 2.6 Qrts w/o Rear Locker
Parts
=======
Oil Filter 90915-YZZG2 Toyota Genuine
Oil Pan Drain Plug Washer
90430-12031
Front Differential Drain Plug Washer 90430-24003 (copper washer)
Front Differential Fill Plug Crush Washers 12157 - 10010
Transmission Drain plug crush washer 35178 - 30010
Transfer Case Fill plug washers 90430 - A0003
Transfer Case Drain plug washers 90430 - A0003
Rear Differential Fill Plug Crush Washers 12157 - 10010
Rear Differential Drain Plug Crush Washers 12157 - 10010
Engine Air Filter 17801 - 07020
Steering Wheel Fluid 00036-00006
U-Joint and Slip Yoke Greasing
Reference: www.toyota-4runner.org/maintenance-detailing/220638-greasing-driveshaft-4th-gen.html
#1 and #3 are spiders Lithium No 2 grease (Synthetic Mobil 1)
Instructions For spiders keep pumping until grease oozes out of all bearings then wipe extra stuff off
#2 is a Slider MolyLith (regular dyno MolyLith) ) * 3-7 pumps is enough
Instructions Do not overfill slider because it can pop the dust seal at full compression (3-7 pumps is enough
Wow, that's what I call a comment. Thanks for the write-up.
@@TimmyTheToolman I enjoy your videos Timmy. Good job.
@@Sami-bc9iv Good to hear. Thanks for supporting our channel.
Your channel has changed my life. My 4runner has needed practically everything you've done a video on! THANK YOU. Also, i got my rig used; PO had installed an aftermarket Rear Diff locker; dumb question i know, but do i go with the directions on your note card as if the rig had a factory installed rear diff locker even though it was installed after the fact?
Brisa Halviatti All you have to remember with any differential, transfer case, or manual transmission is you fill it on level ground until you see gear oil start to spill out of the bottom of the fill plug hole. At that point you know you're full and just put the fill plug back in with a fresh crush washer and tighten it to spec or just go tighten it by feel. Just use some 80w-90 gear oil unless the aftermarket locker you have calls for a different grade gear oil. If you know the locker manufacturer name, just do a Google search to obtain information on it.
We're glad to hear you've found our videos very helpful. We love hearing this. Happy Wrenching Brisa.
Great video Timmy as always Brother just picked up a 2000 Limited 4x4 @Timmy The ToolMan
Thanks Antonio. Have fun working on your new used rig.
@@TimmyTheToolman already got a bunch of things lined up already changed all the lights to led replaced stock brake housings doing u joints next waiting for parts needs a new steering rack and when I find a matching 4:30 ration front and rear diff doing the e locker swap back up camera and navigation stereo it came with remote start and guy that had it before me took the auto sensing rear view mirror off a 2005 Ford and wired that up so when it is dark dash lights and headlights come on automatic has a lift kit bilisten shocks 35 inch tires rock sliders it was decked out when I got it 228 thousand miles and making it mine now with the extra flair 4 grand cash has no body dents or defects
@@AntonioClaudioMichael Have fun with all the planned work.
Just subscribe!! And man your an angel sent from the toyota gods you do a great job explaining step by step and editing thanks for taking your time and effort to explain evrything forget about what people say your shirt is awesome defiantly sharing with friends...
On another hand how much$$$ did you spend on this project diffenlty doing it on my rig..
Hey Edgar, glad you like the video. I don't remember what everything costs but I'll give you a rough estimate.
Oil Filter _ $7
5 Quarts Engine Oil - $30
Synthetic 75w-90 Gear Oil for Front Differential and Transfer Case (Apprx 3 Quarts) - $60
Transmission Fluid (4-5 quarts) - $30
Conventional 80w-90 Gear Oil for Rear Differential - $30
Air Filter - $15
Engine Coolant - you need a little over 2 gallons to fully top off - $50 (price for Toyota Red Concentrate)
All the Drain Plug Washers - $10
If you don't already have a grease gun and grease, let's say another $30.
Total - $262
I guess it adds up quick but this is a renewal of all you fluids except the power steering and brake fluid. By the way, we have videos for bleeding the brakes and for doing a power steering flush if you're interested. You can save money if you don't buy synthetic gear oil. You can also save money on the fluids by buying online or at stores like Walmart.
I'm guessing a dealership would charge at least 4 hours labor for this job. At anywhere from $100-150/hour, you save yourself $400-600 doing this yourself. They use all these fancy terms like "Multipoint Inspection" but they are basically renewing your fluids, inspecting the brakes , checking the tire pressure and maybe rotating the tires. And usually when you get the vehicle back, they are going to have a laundry list of services they will say you need to soak you for even more money. Now, if they are an honest shop, the services they recommend are needed. A dishonest shop is going to suggest things that aren't necessary, and for the typical uniformed consumer, they are going to trust them and get the other services done.
Our goal with this channel is to educate and empower people to take care of their own automotive jobs so they are self sufficient and can save themselves a ton of money in the process. Happy Wrenching and welcome to our channel.
WOW! Thank you so much for this.
You're welcome Walter. Have fun doing some maintenance on your rig.
32:49 if you loosen the bolt (14mm?) that's holding the clamp on the E-brake cable (just left of Diff fill plug) it's easier to get your socket on there. Just remember to re-tighten it of course. Thanks again for all the good advice, including what not to do, etc. One thing I hadn't thought of before, was making sure the oil filter gasket was not stuck to the flange on the engine. However, I usually wipe that with a rag after moving the filter. It can be hard to see tho.
Yeah, I can see loosening the E-brake cable clamp to have an easier time to get the socket on. With the E-brake not set, I usually have no problem getting the socket on there but thanks for the tip. You're welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Really enjoy and appreciate all your 3rd Gen videos! Do you remove your front skid plate for regular oil and filter changes too? I always remove mine because it is really messy and hard to get to the oil filter without removing the skid plate. I was wondering if maybe you figured out a way to avoid having to remove the skid plate and not make a mess when changing the oil filter?
Absolutely I remove the skids every time I change the oil and filter. I have stock skids so it's not that bad. If I had heavy duty aftermarket ones, it might be a different story. For the oil filter, I've heard people put a large zip lock bag around it to capture the oil that comes out. For the oil pan drain plug, I can't remember what people have come up with for that. I think whatever tricky way you come up with to avoid removing the skids plates, you're bound to spill some oil on the skids.
If you have stock skids like me, I'd just take them off every time. It's not that much work, especially with a cordless ratchet like the Milwaukee one I own.
Thanks for the great videos. I just purchased an 01 sport and will certainly be watching most of your vids. One question, is it necessary to oil the new oil filter gasket? It seems it comes pre-greased from Toyota. Thanks
Frankieqd Hey Frank, Yes, always put a film of motor oil on the new rubber o-ring on the oil filter. I buy Toyota filters too, and if there's some oil on that o-ring, it's not enough.
Wonder if the transfer case can benefit from 75 or 85 140 diff fluid? 🤔 @Timmy The ToolMan
I now use Redline synthetic 75w-90 gear oil in my transfer cases and differentials. I've never used 140 grade.
I really enjoy your videos. I changed my differential and transfer case fluids today and I have one question. Are the drain and fill plugs for the differential identical? I noticed on the differentials that the drain plugs had magnets but there was no magnet on the transfer case drain plug.
Thanks again for the videos, they help so much!!
Tomorrow on to the Transmission!!
From what I remember, the transfer case fill and drain plugs could be interchangeable, because like you said, the drain plug is not magnetized like the differential drain plug is. The differential drain and fill plugs are different for sure.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you!!
@@gbrianmullinax8448 You're welcome Brian. Have fun wrenching on your rig.
Go to 3:53 for index card of amounts of fluids to use
Hi Tim. Will you be switching to 85w140 Lucas oil in both differentials after your experience with ECGS?
Yes. That's what I ran in them for the break-in period, and I plan on running that grade gear oil from now on in both diffs. Chase Perry sold me on it when we were shooting videos together. He's got a ton of experience in this field, so I think his recommendation is a solid one. It makes sense due to the cling factor of the thicker oil. It gives the gears and bearings better protection.
Another helpful video Timmy! Thank you! When refilling my transmission fluid, I noticed some of my vacuum hoses were getting brittle...do you have any recommendations replacing them? I'd like to do all of them, but not sure if going OEM route (with all the various part numbers) would be economical. Anything wrong with buying bulk vacuum tubing from the auto store and cutting them to size in your opinion?
I think you're fine buying some bulk vacuum tubing that's the right diameter. There's a bunch of different sizes on the engine so I don't know how easy this will be to figure out. Maybe an aftermarket supplier sells a kit for the whole engine.
hi timmy I have a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4X4 2.7 manual transmission, I am going to change the transfer, differential and transmission oil. Can I use the same gl5 75w90 for all cases? Thanks for your help.
For the transfer case and differentials Yes. For the manual transmission, I'd use Redline MT90, since it's formulated specifically for manual transmissions. amzn.to/3LjhUcD
All the 4runners I have ever had that were a 3rd gen always took 6qts of engine oil 5.5 qts is not enough not sure why either think its a misprint in all the manuals @Timmy The ToolMan
Yeah, it is weird how 5.5 quarts doesn't fill the level to the top line on the dipstick but that's what they say is the capacity for the engine.
@@TimmyTheToolman I think its a typo in the manuals because 5.5 never works for any of my rigs eaither
Thanks for the video. It is very helpful. I drained my transmission and only got 3 quarts out instead of the 5 quarts you did. Are there different types of transmissions (mine is 3rd gen 2wd)? Also I left my 4runner on the ground rather than putting the front on jack stands. So do you think having the front tipped up caused more fluid to drain?
Maybe there is a difference in the fluid capacities between the 2wd and 4wd models but I'm not sure about that. There could be a difference based off the slant your vehicle is at and whether you drained it when it was cold compared to hot. The important thing is you properly fill it. You can check the level when it's cold or hot but I believe you get a more accurate reading when you check it at operating temperature. The factory service manual specifies normal operating temp is between 158-176. If you have a way to monitor your temps, that's ideal. If not, drive at least 5 miles down the highway and then back. During the drive, give quite a few hard throttle responses to get the transmission to kick down because this will help raise the trans temp. When you get home, immediately pop the hood, with the engine running and check the level. You want the level to be reading between the hot marks on the dipstick.
I don't see the drive shaft joints having any grease tubing 🥺,do I need to remove drive shaft?
No, you don't have to remove the driveshaft. You just grease the zerk fittings you have.
Yo Timmy, do you only use OEM oil filters on your rigs, or is there a really high quality a aftermarket brand you would recommend?
I only use OEM.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the response man, you are awesome!
Tim, could you explain again why you put different grease in minute 39:14 Thanks
Because Toyota recommends two different grade greases for the slip yoke and u-joints. My opinion on this is it really doesn't matter. You could use the same grease for both applications. This is the grease that a reputable driveline shop recommended to me for both applications: amzn.to/2ObZAH0
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks
@@tarzan30809 You're welcome.
Hi Tim, Israel here: What kind of Grease did you use for the U-joint and slip yoke. Like what brand is compatible for a 2002 Toyota 4runner??? Thanks for your help! Keep on going brother!
The back of your owners manual tells you the type of grease to use.for the u-joints and slip yokes. But, in case you don't have one, the u-joints are suppose to get a lithium based chassis grease , NLGI No.2. You can get at an auto parts store. The slip yokes and double cardan joint (middle of the double u-joints on the rear drive shaft) take a molybdenum-disulfide lithium based chassis grease, NLGI No.2.
For my rig, I've been using a Moly based lithium grease for everything except the rear slip yoke. For the rear slip yoke, I've been using that special Ford XG-8 grease I show in our Slip Yoke Binding Fix video.
It's me again Timmy, I was watching this video and you didn't show in the video when you fill up the rear differential, is it the same as the front differential when the gear oil drip out of the fill plug it's already full. By the way thanks again for this very good video, next week I will do the front differential and the transfer case on my free time when my grandson is not around to bother me
Hey Luis, every differential, transfer case and manual transmission is the same. You fill them with gear oil until the oil spills out of the fill hole. You obviously want to be on level ground when you do this because you can either get too much or too little into what you're filling if you're at a slant. Be careful with the front differential. That drain plug is notorious for stripping because it gets really locked onto the differential. If it fights you, use some heat around the plug to loosen up the connection and try again. If it doesn't budge, use some more heat. You don't want to strip the plug. To heat it up, you can use one of those small torches that screw onto a container of map gas. You can buy these torches at any hardware store.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the advice on the front differential. I will check out the torch before I start the job next week.
My inlet threads of my fill plug on the t case are stripped, what should I do
How badly stripped are they?
Wow your using 5w 20 how does your runner do with 5w 20 I never go lower then 10w 30 and 99 percent of the time I always use 10w 40 and I'm in az @Timmy The Toolman
I think maybe you were seeing things Antonio. We've ever put 5w-20 into a 3.4 liter engine. 5w-30 yes, but not 5w-20. If we did, it was a mistake.
@@TimmyTheToolman Was a Typo Ment 5w 30 My Orginal Manuals say 10w 30
All this should be done every oil change? 30k or 3 months?
Hey Daniel, the answer is No. Do it every 30k miles. Every 3 months would be WAYYYYY OVERKILL. Unless I misspoke in the video, I would never suggest someone perform all this every 3 months.
Hey Timmy, Happy Holidays, Did this 4runner have a oil cooler? I have a leak coming from that area, I dont have a cooler on my 01 SR5 model.
Hey Tyler, are you sure that your engine doesn't have an oil cooler? I was under the assumption all these 3.4 liter engines were the same. Why would your 2001 not have an oil cooler?
Hey Tim, can you use 80w90 in the front diff and transfer case as well?
I plan on ordering Amsoil by quart and since the eLocker diff requires 2.9, I’d be more comfortable buying more than just 3 quarts for the rear bc I wanna have a little extra oil to “flush” the old stuff out. Thinking about ordering 6 quarts of 80w90 for the Rear, Front, and transfer case.
You could or you could also run 75w-90 in everything too. That's what I'm doing now. I'm running Redline synthetic 75w-90 in my front rear diffs ans transfer case.
Timmy The Toolman awesome, thanks for the quick reply! Gonna go with 80w90 since it’s slightly cheaper plus it never gets below 60* F in my area anyways
Now I will tell you how I know you are good. Both in wrenching and videos. 1. Toyota uniform (assuming you didn't steal it), 2. Nice big toolbox (they are not cheap), 3. Gear stuff all over the garage, 4. Lots of folks showing up there, 6. 107 likes and zero dislikes on this one, 7. You refer to stuff by its proper name, 8. You edit at good places, 9. YOU GUYS APPEAR TO BE HAVING FUN, My credentials to make this decision ? My first ride was a '33 Chev with a '57 olds engine in 1963. No tools, no books, no car parts stores in 20 miles, Dad never could change his own oil. And started filming Wednesday night drag races at Sears Point in 1986, putting them on Petaluma Community Access TV. So when I say you guys are good, trust me. Although Sean the cameraman isn't much to look at, if you know what I mean. So keep him BEHIND the camera. OUT
Hey Steve, I actually bought my cool shirt online from a workman's supply website that will embroider your name and whatever else you want on the shirt. It does look very close to what shop mechanics wear but I'm not trying to make myself out to be a professional mechanic. I'm just a DIYer who likes to wrench and share helpful videos with the masses. I thought it would be cool for Sean and I to have our own uniforms for the videos.
The toolboxes I have are a Craftsman box and a Harbor Freight box. Noting too pricey like Snap On.
We appreciate the compliment that it appears we know what the hell we're doing. We put a lot of work into these videos. It starts with researching the job via the factory service manual, reading write-ups on forums and watching videos. When I feel I got a handle on the repair or modification, we go for it. The filming day is usually long because it takes a lot of extra time to get the lighting right and the camera in the right place so we make sure we're getting good video. The next step is editing and this takes an enormous amount of time and patience. Sometimes I realize I misspoke, left something out or whatever and then we reshoot or re-record audio to get it right. Then after the video is uploaded, questions and comments start coming in and I try to answer and acknowledge every person. So, it's a lot of work but we are having fun and we feel it's a rewarding experience to help others repair, maintain and modify their rigs.
Happy Wrenching Brother!
Hey Timmy, I drained the transmission fluid and the used one was a gallon and half quart. I put in a gallon of valvoline dexron III / mercon plus an additional half a quart of flag transmission fluid. I checked the dipstick and it shows fluid is up to the hot line. Did I overfill it with fluid. I drive it around the block for maybe 2 to 3 miles and when I get to the garage I check again the fluid it is still in the hot line so I am not sure if its overfill or what Thanks for this video and maybe the next one is the front and rear differential.
When you first checked it, was the engine running? You always have to check the transmission level when the engine is running, the transmission is in Park and you're on level ground. So, if you added exactly what you took out, you're probably OK unless it was overfilled before you started.
With the transmission cold, and the engine running, make sure the level is in the cold range. Now take your rig for at least a 5 mile distance on the highway and get the transmission to kick down multiple times during your 5 mile drive out and 5 mile drive back. When you get home, immediately get it on level ground, pop the hood with the engine running and check the level again. Your level should now be somewhere in the hot range. If you have a way to monitor your trans temp with a scan gauge or OBDII reader sending info to a phone app like Torque Pro, that's ideal because then you can confirm you are at operating temp for your trans. The normal operating range is 158-176 according to the FSM.
@@TimmyTheToolmanthanks for the advice, I checked it while the engine was off. I"ll try it again tomorrow. I am learning a lot from your video and I"ll do little by little maintenance on my 97 4runner. Thanks again.
@@luisolitoquit4481 Gotcha. Good to hear you're learning a lot from our videos. Happy Wrenching Luis.
When greasing the u-joints and slip yokes, there's 2 fittings in the rear and 3 in front for 2WD as well? Since I know yours is 4WD I was wondering if it's the same for 2WD.
Also, just so you know: the amazon link for the transmission drain plug crush washer is a dead link
I would assume so but I can't honestly say for sure since I haven't greased the zerk fittings on a 2wd model. But, if you simply get under your rig and take a look at your driveshaft, you should be able to quickly figure it out.
@@TimmyTheToolman Going to grease 'em tomorrow when I do lower ball joints while I'm up on jack stands for the day. Just checking to make sure I don't miss any but we'll see and I'll let you know. 👍
@@iburstabean As long as the rear end is off the ground, the parking brake is off and the trans is in neutral, you'll be able to turn the driveshaft to get a good look at it and be able to see all the zerk fittings. I'm pretty confident you will have that center ball zerk for the double cardan joint just like with the 4wd models.
@@TimmyTheToolman Surprisingly, there are zero zerk fittings on my 2000 limited 2wd, had a professional look as well and nothing. No double cardan joint either. Probably should have made sure they were there before I bought a grease gun and primed it lol
@@iburstabean That's interesting you have non-greaseable u-joints and you have no zerk for your slip yoke. Weird.
The OEM engine air filter is the best? Amazon as a source is okay? For a 2013 and a 2005 tundra?
Amazon sellers do sell OEM air filters. You just have to select a seller selling OEM parts.
Tim have you had any problems with transmission slipping after changing the fluid?
Hey, nice last name. I'm Tim Watson. I haven't personally had a problem with an auto transmission after changing the fluid. The only time you'd have trouble with slipping after a transmission fluid flush is if the transmission was abused and the fluid was very old. As the lubricating properties of the fluid break down, more wear occurs throughout the transmission, including the clutch plates, and you can get sludge build-up in different areas in the transmission. That old dirty worn out fluid can haver suspended clutch material in it and it's helping the transmission shift and not slip. When you drain out all the old fluid, you lose the suspended clutch material your transmission was relying on. Also, new fluid has detergents in it and can loosen the sludge that built up in the transmission. That loosened sludge can lodge in the valve body and cause fluid delivery issues.
I'm not an expert on automatic transmissions but I've read quite a bit on the subject. So, if you happened to buy a vehicle from a seller that never changed the transmission fluid, it might be best to do just a drain and refill of the pan or do nothing at all. The damage has already been done and the transmission is on borrowed time, but why accelerate it's demise by doing a complete flush.
Thank you Tim! I knew you were a good guy and the last name just proved it!! Look forward to any new videos, you have done a great job so far!! Thanks again
Thanks Chris. More videos coming. Sean and I will probably be doing this for a while but you never know what life will throw our way to change things. It's been a fun ride so far.
Hey Timmy, are those crush washers compatible with the 1st gen tacomas? Thanks.
Yeah they should be.
can you use Mobil synthetic grease for the drive shafts? Its all I have and I used it on the u joints already.
Michael Ferguson I'm not familiar with that grease but I'm sure it's fine. Many people use synthetic greases and oils instead of conventional. But. to be sure, just research the accepted uses for that grease online. I'm guessing you'll find a definitive answer quickly.
Hey Timmy, I just installed a external transmission cooler on my 99 4runner. Using an OBDII scan tool I can monitor my trans temp, on the highway I usually see ~150-170 degrees. When i'm driving through the hills with a full car i've seen it reach ~220 degrees. At what temp should I worry about overheating my transmission components?
Thanks
Hey Adrian, are you using the technique of turning overdrive off? I have a video about it ruclips.net/video/BEZfDOkGVno/видео.html. When you're climbing grades and your driving at a speed where you're between 3rd gear and 4th gear (overdrive) the torque converter isn't locked up and your transmission temps will be higher by around 20+ degrees. If you lock up the torque converter by turning off overdrive, you can run 20+ degrees cooler. So, I usually just turn overdrive off when I'm driving mountain roads. Turning overdrive off doesn't really help you when you're in the lower gears but it definitely makes a difference when the transmission keeps going from 4th and kicking down into 3rd due to the climbing effort. If I'm able to sustain around 60+ mph, I'll turn overdrive back on to keep my engine rpms down.
The temperatures you are seeing even with your trans cooler are normal. The trans cooler is dropping your temps by around 20 degrees and that's about it. But, 20 degrees can be a pretty big deal when you're getting up there in temperature. Depending on the chart you look at, at 220 degrees, your trans fluid will last you around 50,000 miles. At 230 degrees, the fluid will last around 30,000 miles. Now, at 250 degrees, maybe 15, 000 miles.
I was carrying 4 passengers one day driving to a wedding in the Santa Cruz mountains. The road up to the house was relentlessly steep and long. I think it was a 15-20 percent grade that went on for a couple miles. I watched my trans temp climb and climb and climb. I was just about to pull over and let my transmission cool off when we finally reached the house. I hit 240. That wasn't good but I was only at that temp for a very short period. In the California Bay Area where I live, we have been experiencing a heat wave recently and I was driving up a 7 mile mountain road in 105 degree heat last week. My transmission hit 225 by the time I hit the top. I usually only hit around 200 at the top of that hill but because the ambient temperatures were so high that day, the air going through the cooling fins wasn't really doing all that much.
So, to answer your question, I'd start worrying about your trans temp when you get close to 230 degrees. If you start going over 230, you start really shortening the life of your fluid which could affect the life of your transmission components.
To keep my trans fluid in decent shape, I do a drain and refill of the pan every 10,000 miles. So, instead of waiting 30,000 miles for a full flush, I just do the more frequent drain and refills. I'd rather introduce some new fluid on a more regular basis instead of waiting the 30,000 miles to renew the entire capacity.
This was more than you asked for but I hope you find the extra info helpful.
Do you happen to knw the torque specs for the transmission pan bolts on a 2002 toyota 4runner?
I looked in my FSM and it said 65 foot pounds but that's a definite misprint. I looked it up on a Toyota forum and it's suppose to be 65 INCH pounds.
Timmy The Toolman: Ok thank you!
Hey Timmy , don't you change the Power steering fluid?If you do, can i use the same automatic transmission fluid?
Yes, it's good to renew the power steering fluid. Sean and I made a video of how to renew it by using a low-tech method of sucking some old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster, refilling the reservoir, starting the engine, turning the wheels back and forth a couple times to cycle the fluid and then repeating until the fluid looks pretty clean. You can do it another way but that involves removing the return line and you will most likely introduce air into the system. Introducing air into the system isn't a really big deal because it will work itself out, but the low-tech method doesn't involve removing anything so it's much easier to do.
Yes, you use the same ATF you would use for the transmission, basically any ATF the meets or exceeds Dextron 3 specifications.
Here's a link to the Low-Tech Power Steering Fluid Replacement video:
ruclips.net/video/GOb5yF2Xv8Y/видео.html
Times are crazy and people are crazy. Best if people do not know where you live.
Good point and it's something I've thought about. There's been times I have accidentally shown my address in the videos but I think there's a pretty slim chance anyone's going to target me. So far, I've invited a lot of complete strangers over my house to help them out with their rigs and make a video in the process and it's all been very positive so far. I've also held several meet-ups at my place and everyone who shows up is good people.
But yeah, there are nut jobs everywhere you go so it might bite me in the ass one day.
Tim I noticed my 4runner 02 4wd also takes just over 6 quarts to fill it to the top dot on the stick. I never know if I should fill it to the top dot or if I should add 5.5... so I add 6 even tho it’s still shy of he full dot. Should I add until it’s at the full dot or add the factory spec?
Hey Chase, I noticed the same thing. I always fill it with 6 quarts and call it good.
Hey Tim,
Many places recommend doing the transmission fluid change when hot. What do you think?
What places recommend doing it hot? I don't see why it would be necessary to have the trans fluid hot.
@@TimmyTheToolman itstillruns.com/change-transmission-fluid-toyota-runner-5460241.html for instance. A few others said the same doing a quick Google search. You think it is not necessary?
Sup tim. You mentioned you stripped the lower drain plug for the front diff. How did you end up getting it off? Did you have to weld a nut as you mentioned? Mine is also stuck so i never serviced my front diff
Hey Jay, I was trying to get mine off with a regular 10mm allen wrench. When I noticed it starting to strip, I went to a local mechanic who had a 10mm allen socket with a breaker bar and he stripped it the rest of the way for me. So, I looked it up online and read about people welding a big hex head nut on there but I don't have a welder so I tried another suggested way of knocking it loose with a hammer and chisel. I gave it several good whacks in the counter-clockwise direction, but it didn't budge and I was scared I was going to screw something up. So, I brought it to the dealer and they gladly got it off for me for $150. So nice of them. I talked with the mechanic who got it off to find out how he did it, and the said he did it with a hammer and chisel. Shit! I had the right technique but I just needed a little more force.
When I helped Sean with renewing all his fluids, his was stuck really good as well. But, I now have an allen head socket and a big breaker bar and I was able to get his loose. I was ready to give up but tried one more time by using my leg to push down on the breaker bar while Sean made sure the allen socket wasn't slipping out of the bolt head and wasn't stripping. I had to put my full weight onto the breaker bar to get it break loose. Why Toyota chose an allen head bolt instead of a regular hex head bolt is beyond me.
Anyway, when you come over to the house next, we can see about getting that drain bolt broken free for you.
Timmy, great vids thanks. I've got a 98 4runner in upstate NY and I know all about frozen, corroded bolts. I've had real good luck with a MAPP torch for 30-60 seconds and PB Blaster, and the breaker bar, nice and easy, rocking motion. The impact wrench will spin the bolt heads right off and then you've just earned yourself an hours worth of drill time on the bolt shaft. Keep up the good work!
i use a 15/16 sae socket with a 4 foot breaker bar and the bottle jack that came with the 4runner to remove it with out stripping.
Hi Timmy,
What type of grease are you using on the U-joint/Slip Yoke?
This T4R forum thread shows pages right from the factory service manual that tells you what type of grease to use: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/97006-drive-prop-shaft-greasing-guide.html
At one point I was using Ford XG-8 grease for the slip yokes like I show in this video to try to eliminate slip yoke binding: ruclips.net/video/Jyltxe2nPEg/видео.html
The new grease worked for a while but the clunk came back. With that said, I do believe the best way to properly grease the slip yokes is to pull the slip yoke off and manually grease it. When you use the zerk fitting, most of the grease just sits at the bottom of the yoke and doesn't effectively grease the splines. Check this video out: ruclips.net/video/oKX5UeE2Txs/видео.html
In the past year or so, I've gotten some work done on a couple driveshaft by a driveline shop local to me in San Jose, California and I learned they use one grease for lubricating the ui-joints and slip yokes of the driveshafts they service or build for their customers. I'm going to follow their lead and start using this grease for my u-joints and slip yokes: amzn.to/2ObZAH0
It seems like some of your fluid replacement is very aggressive, and not per the recommended schedule. Your fluids seem to be in great shape when you drain them.
Keeping your fluids in great shape helps you keep your vehicle running a long time before major work is needed. I do tend to agree with you that you can quite often get longer life out of your fluids but I prefer to be on the safe side of fluid change intervals. Fluid changes are usually very easy and not expensive, so why not give you rig some love a little more often?
Mats Tochtermann
Where can i get the Toyota Repair manual yo are using
for my Prado 90 3,4 1997, thanksTimmy good wideo.
Just do a online search. I found a set for sale on Ebay.
Hey Tim, wondering if you could help me once again. So, torque spec for Transfer case plug is 27 ft lbs. My torque starts at 30 ft lbs! What do you think are the chances I brake the plug if I tighten it to 30? Would it make that much of a difference? Thanks!
Marx, just forego the torque wrenching. I've tightened hundreds of drain plugs without the use of a torque wrench. You just have to understand mechanical advantage and know that a small fastener needs to be tightened with less force and a large fastener will need a lot more force. Get on the plug with a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket, cinch it up snug and call it good. Don't get on there with a long breaker bar with your hand on the very end of the handle and put all your weight into it. The plug only needs to be tight enough that it won't leak and won't fall out. Err on the side of being under-tightened rather than over-tightened. You don't need to live and die by the torque spec. Trust your best judgement and you'll be fine.
@@TimmyTheToolman appreciate the advice!
@@marxccc You're welcome!
Do you happen to know if anyone sells aftermarket diff plugs that wont strip? specifically for 3rd gen. (if this doesn't exist- let me know)
There was a guy who commented a while back saying he bought aftermarket plugs from a company but I can't find his comment. I wish there was a way for me to use a keyword search tool to look through the comments but there isn't anything like that.
I am not sure if oil flush should. Oil flush recommend or not?
What oil are you talking about Juan?
Should make a diy video for a oil filter relocation kit?
What's wrong with the current location? The only nuisance I see is removing the skid plate which gets harder with heavy aftermarket skids. The OEM skid is a piece of cake to remove.
@@TimmyTheToolman just to minimize the mess it make taking it off.
@@omarzeineddine5427 I guess that's a good enough reason. I probably wouldn't bother doing it on one of my rigs, but if somebody hit us up for help with this job, we'd make a video for it. Do you know of a good relocation kit?
D2 or d3 oil filter which is better in your opinion?
Get the D3. Those are the ones I"m running in my 4runners. It has a little bit higher volume capacity.
Does anyone know what drain & fill plug washers I would need for my manual transmission and the torque spec for my 99 6 cylinder part #'s would be helpful thanks
They are most likely going to be the exact same ones that are for the transfer case #90430-A003. But, a quick visit to your local Toyota dealer is all you'll need to do if you're concerned. You'll pay a little more for them but were' not talking a huge expense for a couple washers. As for the torque spec, I'd say you could also use the transfer case as a reference and torque your manual transmission drain and fill plugs to 27 ft-lbf. Or, you could just go by feel, which is what I do for drain plugs.
I was not at all thinking that you might strip a bolt or over-tighten. I would guess you could free-hand tighten to within a couple pounds at any given torque. Only the teaching to someone who may not know. Someone could tighten right past the click if going too fast. Or click on a bolt that has been welded in place. Any goofy thing that can be done with a car has been done by someone, I'm sure.
Hey hear you. It's probably good for new DIY wrenchers to use a torque wrench to get a feel for how tight certain size fasteners should be and then they can graduate to not using one once they got a good feel for it.
Timmy,
I just got my 4Runner and the guy I got it from had shit for records...so I don't know if it's been using conventional or synthetic oil.
1. If it's been using conventional oil and I drain it, can I put synthetic oil in when I change it next/will that be a problem?
2. I'll be doing the valve gaskets soon...should I wait till after that or does it matter if it's before?
Thanks man...your videos are giving me the confidence to do a lot of these jobs I've long wanted to know how to do...#sicmods
Yes, you can switch to synthetic no problem. The one thing with synthetic is people have reported more oil leaks because it tends to be a thinner oil but I wouldn't sweat it. Give it a try and see how it goes. It's not going to hurt anything. It doesn't matter if you change the oil before or after the valve cover gasket job. Either way is fine.
Good to hear our videos are giving you the confidence to turn wrenches on your rig.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks man...I appreciate your time. I'll be using your links for most of my purchases for gear from Amazon...it's the least I can do.
@@TheRealitarian We appreciate it.
How many zerk fitting are there?
You have 7 zerk fittings. There's 3 on the front driveshaft (2 for the u-joints and one for the slip yoke) and there's 4 on the rear driveshaft (3 for the double cardan joint and one for the rear u-joint). The double cardan joint is made up of 2 u-joints and a center joint. Each of those joints has a zerk fittings.
Hey Timmy do you kno if I can use 75-90 for the rear diff as well
People have used 75w-90 without issue but an 80w-90 gear oil is what Toyota suggests.
Timmy The Toolman thank you
@@Jmelz20 You're welcome.
Hey exactly what engine oil did you use?
I've been using Castrol GTX High Mileage Synthetic Blend 5w-30 for a lot of years. Here's a link:
www.walmart.com/ip/34039137?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227022552727&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=77517593928&wl4=aud-273067695102:pla-107414678208&wl5=9032131&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla_multichannel&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=34039137&wl13=&veh=sem
I know a lot of people like full synthetic but this motor oil has served me well so I stick with it.
What kind/brand of grease gun and grease are you using?
Just some basic gun you can find at most auto parts store. It was nothing special. Or, check Amazon for a gun with good reviews.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the quick reply. What kind of grease do you use? Just whatever is avail at the auto parts stores as well? In the mean time I have done a bit of research and there seems to be a heated debate of moly vs mp, sounds like there isnt a correct answer for that :)
Great videos. Keep up the good work and quality videos!
@@michaelkelsey1 Hey Mike, according to the FSM, they suggest a Multipurpose Lithium Based grease for the u-joints (spiders). For the Slip Yokes on both driveshafts and the Double Cardan Joint on the rear driveshaft, the FSM suggest a Moly grease. I know guys who just use the same grease for all applications and call it good. Here's a link to a T4R thread that maybe you already found: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/97006-drive-prop-shaft-greasing-guide.html
Honestly, I don't think it matter that much what grease you use. The main thing is keep the joints lubricated so they don't prematurely wear out. Good to hear you like the videos we've been making. Happy Wrenching!
I'm looking for a 2002 Tacoma service manual. If anyone wants to sell it, I'd like to purchase one.
Just do an online search. You'll most likely find a set for sale on Ebay.
@@TimmyTheToolman okay thanks!
Need better lighting.
Yep, the lighting could have been much better for this video.