Inner & Outer Tie Rod Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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*PLEASE READ THIS AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video, we show you how to replace the inner and outer tie rods on your 3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma. The techniques and tips we share in this video would also relate to many other vehicle makes and models.
*PARTS*
(NOTE - This is a parts list for a 3rd Gen 4runner. The front end on a 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacoma are very similar but there are some differences in the parts so make sure you look up and order the correct parts for your Tacoma).
*Inner Tie Rods - #45503-39075
ebay.us/O4rDgq
*Passenger Side Outer Tie Rod - #45046-39335
amzn.to/2RW0z0k
*Driver Side Outer Tie Rod - #45047-39215
amzn.to/2RSYN04
*Steering Rack Boots - #45535-35030
amzn.to/34liK2g
*Inner Steering Rack Boot Clamps - #90460-62006
amzn.to/2POHScj
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*6 Ton Jack Stands - (to safely support the truck while you're working on it)
amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chocks - (nice chocks that don't slip)
amzn.to/2mttRWp
*Brake Cleaner - (to clean up tie rods before making match-marks)
amzn.to/2KuJ6Yw
*Brite-Mark Medium Tip Paint Marker, Orange - ( to make match-marks on outer tie rods)
amzn.to/2OyTwre
*Gear Wrench Large Metric Wrench Set - (used to break free outer tie rod set nuts)
amzn.to/2TCXLmY
*Straight Needle Nose Pliers - (used to straighten cotter pin)
amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*Knipex Diagonal Cutters - (used to lever cotter pin out of outer tie rod castle nut)
amzn.to/300BRRE
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun - (used to remove outer tie rod castle nut)
amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt Batteries
amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger
amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set
amzn.to/3wdRVhq
*OTC 6295 Front End Service Set - (used to break free outer tie rod from knuckle of lower balljoint)
amzn.to/2TFUweC
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet - (used to turn bar screw of tie rod puller)
amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*Right Angle Needle Nose Piers - (used to remove outer steering rack boot clamp)
amzn.to/2VYUro8
*3 Piece Channel Lock Set - (used a channel lock to remove inner steering rack boot clamp)
amzn.to/33Hj4rE
*20 Piece Screwdriver Set - (used a screwdriver to help remove steering rack boot and un-stake claw washer for inner tie rod) amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*Ball Pein Hammer - (used with brass drift to un-stake claw washer for inner tie rod)
amzn.to/2W5eHV5
*Brass Drift Set - (used wit ball pein hammer to un-stake claw washer for inner tie rod)
amzn.to/2BrXfki
*Bacho 12" Adjustable Wrench - (used to connect to the inner tie rod to break free the tie rod from the steering rack) amzn.to/2TFHMEw
*Bacho 10" Adjustable Wrench - (used to hold the steering rack shaft while using the other Bacho wrench to break free the inner tie rod) amzn.to/2WPnhax
*Lisle Large Inner Tie Rod Tool Kit - (option to using adjustable wrenches)
amzn.to/2GsudEV
*42mm Crowsfoot - (Another optional tool for the inner tie rod removal)
www.ebay.com/i...
*Extra Long 90 Degree Needle Nose Pliers - (used to get new inner steering rack boot clamp locked together) amzn.to/36EfbFY
*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
- (used to torque outer tie rod castle nut)
amzn.to/2U2vUA4
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set - (19mm used with torque wrench)
amzn.to/37iQjVt
*Cotter Pin Set amzn.to/2OoD38K - (used for outer tie rod castle nut)
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
*Another Option for Tools for the Inner Tie Rods*
www.toyota-4run...
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In the video you'll see the old inner tie rod joints move much more freely than the new joints. However, there was no actual play in the joints. We don't feel free movement in the joint is a sign that it's bad. If there was actual play in the ball and socket, that would then be an indicator the joint is bad and needs replacing. Replacement OEM inner tie rods are very expensive so I wouldn't suggest replacing these just for the hell of it.
**Update 10/14/18 - A subscriber reported you can rent the specialty inner tie rod tool set from Auto Zone for free. Just like most automotive stores that rent tools, you leave them a deposit and you get your deposit back when you return the tool.
Hi Timmy,I didn't feel any in or out play on my inner tie rods either,but I change them any ways and guess what..it actually reduced my steering wheel shaking about 90% at 60+ mph. thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Any tips on loosening up the jack nut on the tierod? Went in for an alignment after having to replace the passenger outer tierod because lower ball joint bolt/tie rod wouldn’t come off. So instead had to break free the OTE and LBJ altogether.
Now the tech can’t get the driver side outer tierod jacknut for an alignment because it is seized/frozen or rusted. (Sprayed PB blaster already)
@@RoNBEE1 Get a butane torch and heat up the nut and use more penetrant. I'm not familiar with the term "Jacknut" but I assume you're talking about the lock nut for the outer tie rod. Or, you can tell the alignment tech to throw his purse at it.
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah lock nut lol. The tech was a big dude and it wouldn’t budge. Lol. I’ll try the butane torch approach (they aren’t allowed to use fire)
@@RoNBEE1 Gotcha. Hopefully with a few rounds of heat and penetrant, you'll be able to break it free.
It's twice now that your detailed instructive videos have enabled me to do a job that otherwise would have cost me a small fortune. Thank you very, very much!
Dude that’s HUGE! We are stoked you took the time to comment and share your success with us. That’s the whole reason we are here and we love hearing from our subscribers’!
- Sean
Thank you, thank you, thank you for all of your videos. My son bought a 98 SR5 4runner 4x4 several years ago, and we have done a ton of upgrades and repairs using your videos. His younger sister loves his rig and just bought a 2000 Tacoma SR5 4x4 that we drove 10 hours to Billings, MT to get. Right now, in my two car garage and shop, the two rigs are sitting side by side, and without all your videos, we probably wouldn't be doing all of the repairs ourselves. The 4runner is getting a new radiator and a transmission fluid flush. An ECG bushing, two new CV axles and seals. The Tacoma is getting a new E-locker rear axle with all the wiring needed, new leaf springs, Bilstein shocks front and back, a new CV axle, and seals. Sway bar end links, lower ball joints, and the inner and outer tie rods. I have parts for valve cover gaskets and the "aircabinman" kit for the timing belt, etc. that should have the Tacoma good to go for quite a while. Fun stuff for a newly retired guy.
Hey Victor, that's great to hear you're turning wrenches with your son and daughter and using my videos. Thanks for commenting and sharing this with us. I'm close to retirement myself but I'm going to keep making videos. Happy Wrenching!
Praise the Gods for your videos. Thank you for your service to humanity
You're very welcome Nick. Sounds like you like what Sean and I are doing.
Here here! So glad to have found this dude and to be blessed with the same vehicle as most of his videos
Tim is the man , since we are stuck home I’ve been doing some maintenance on my Tacoma , you have a video for everything ! followed your steps and replaced my inner and outer tie rods today
Glad our videos are keeping you busy during the Zombie Apocalypse. Don't let any Zombies sink their teeth into you.
I've looked at several videos on these Toyota Tundra tie rod ends. Yours is the best I've seen. The inner tie rod end tube type tools with the crows feet usually won't work for this 42mm inner tie rod end. It looks like Toyota upgraded the inner tie rod end and the tool isn't deep enough to latch onto the crows foot. I wasn't aware of the thinner crescent wrenches, so you helped me there. Most of the videos they are spinning the inner tie rod end off without holding the shaft. I also wasn't aware of the 2 different ftlb settings for the inner tie rod end but was very satisfied with your technique and plan to do mine the same.
Look through the comments. There's some guys who have found some more affordable options for slim wrenches to get the inner tie rods off. Thanks for the compliment. I hope the job goes smooth for you.
**Update 10/14/18 - A subscriber reported you can rent the specialty inner tie rod tool set from Auto Zone for free. Just like most automotive stores that rent tools, you leave them a deposit and you get your deposit back when you return the tool.
The bat fan?
And O'reilly! Their kit is standard but it includes a 1 and 3/16 (30mm) and a 42mm wrench in it. I''ll be doing this job this weekend. After getting and doing F and R suspension, steering rack bushings, swarbar bushings, I went in for an alignment on to discover these were also shot (should've realized while doing all that other work!)
Another option is a bike headset and bottom bracket tool ($20). Park Tool makes several - some are combo's - I used my 30mm/32mm today on my '05 Sequoia - hadn't busted out an old school headset tool in years but it was the perfect thing! They are pretty much only about 5mm thick - there are others but mine happens to be a Park, Pedro's and others are also fine. HCW-7 Headset Wrench: 30.0mm and 32.0mm www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-HCW-7-Headset-Wrench/dp/B0012Q4EH6/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Park+Tool+HCW-7+Headset+Wrench%3A+30.0mm+and+32.0mm&qid=1598063280&sr=8-1
Yes this is a great option. I just ‘rented’ a slide hammer tool this last weekend. You buy the whole tool $170 for this case and then you use it for up to 45 days and then return it for a full refund. That was at advance auto. I know they sell tie rod tool as well but I’ll be doing next weekend. Thanks for the great video!
@@condor5635 You're welcome.
Thank You Timmy ! The whole process was easier with your detail explanation... far away from bla... bla... those details gave me confidence on what I was doing was done in the proper way. Thanks again.
You're welcome and it's great to hear the level of detail we offer in this video gave you confidence to get this job done right. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for ALL that you and Sean do. I'd be broke paying mechanics for what you guys show how to do.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
thanks for leaving a comment. we are glad that our videos are helping you save money!
I can’t thank you enough fr all your videos. It really helps for beginner DIYer like me. The way you explain the steps and having all the parts information. Thank you so much.
You're very welcome. Glad you appreciate the detail and information we offer in our videos. We gear our videos to the absolute beginner so everyone can be successful using our videos. We sometimes get criticized for the level of detail we offer, but those people are in the severe minority. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks a ton man! Your videos have probably saved me hours and hours of headache and $$$. I just went through my entire front end suspension.
You're very welcome Louie. Great to hear our videos are saving you time and money. We appreciate you taking the time to comment to share your success stories with us. Happy Wrenching!
Your & Sean's vids are completely invaluable!
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
G'day from Australia 🇦🇺 great in depth video mate, very helpful!
Thanks, and you're very welcome our Australian Toyota Brother.
Nobody does Toyota repair better than Timmy! Every time I’m working on my tacquito I always remember when Tim said “you can do a lot with 4 inches; I do everyday” 🤩
Thanks Dan. Glad you appreciate my humor.
Thank for all your videos on 4Runners
Our pleasure Carlos.
You make the best informational videos, saved me tons of money not taking to mechanic.... keep up the awesome work keeping Toyota’s on the road!!! 👍🏼
Thanks Evan. Great to hear you are saving money using our videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it! Happy Wrenching!
Bubba you bad. I just seen that my inner tie rods are fit to be tied on the ol work taco. Very informative video. Thank you
Glad you found the video helpful. You're very welcome and good luck with the job.
I used a Harbor Freight #63705 ($36.99) to remove a VW inner tie rod. It has the crow's foot and long rod style Tim was talking about. Looks like the Lisle #LIS46800 ($87.24). I also made a video about the Harbor Freight tool I am mentioning. Hope this helps!
Thank you Tim for making this video. I bought a 98 4Runner 4x4 from North Carolina w 231K miles. I have play in the steering wheel 1" side to side. At >68- 70 mph I have a wheel shake! I went out today to check my outer tie rods and they have "twist" play. No clunk but as you know joints should be tight/firm. If the outer moves the inner tie rod must be loose as well just like your video. I am going to replace them both. I'll find the right wrenches to grind down first then the tie rods!!
Hey Frank, thanks for sharing this. I looked at the description for the Harbor Freight tool you linked and it does not come with a 42mm adapter that would work for 3rd Gen 4runners. I wonder if it's possible to buy the 42mm adapter for this kit?
@@TimmyTheToolman Wow. It worked for the VW but looking at the website it states the biggest is 33.6. Oh well, guess wrenches will have to do. On Ebay now looking for the best OEM tie rod prices. lol
Ah! I did mine right around the same time you must’ve done this one. I got stuck with one inner fused to an outer and then one inner fused to the rack. Ended up just needing a bit more coaxing from a pipe wrench and a dead blow for the inner attached to the rack. I wish I’d known you could reuse the larger boot clamps, they’re a pain to try and find, so for now I’ve just got a large zip tie on it which is what I see most aftermarket reboot kits coming with.
Also that ball joint puller makes things SO easy! Tried a pickle fork and failed miserably. The puller I added to my toolset.
Hey Rory, well, you got it done and that's what counts. This job did throw me for a loop due to the need for specialty or altered wrenches. Next time you have something really stuck, apply some heat with a small butane torch. I've found a little heat helps a lot for stuck fasteners. We provide the part number for those inner clamps in the video description if you wanted to order a set. Pullers are definitely the way to go. The Big F'ing Hammer or Pickle Fork are not techniques I subscribe to.
Thank you for sharing that counter-holding the non-rotating steering shaft (the one that slides) with a suitable tool while you twist off (or on) the inner tie rod. You are absolutely correct. It may sound like common sense, but i believe i did not counter hold the inner shaft while removing the inner tie rod, on my VW, with the harbor freight tool (long ass socket like 16 inches long).
I honestly don't know how crucial it is to hold the steering shaft when breaking free and tightening the inner tie rod, but that's what it showed in the Toyota factory service manual.
@@TimmyTheToolman I don’t know either however, like you said, if there’s a slot to fit a wrench, then I will put one. Just in case. Haven’t done it yet in 4runner.
Best tie rod info vid for a diyer
Thnx a mil 👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for the nice compliment and you're very welcome.
The brand "Sankei 555" is an OEM manufacturer of Toyota parts. They are made in Japan and super-high quality. They are more economical than OEM parts as well when sold under their in-house name. They are easy to find via Google. I bought a Maddox Inner Tie Rod service tool kit from Harbor Freight Tools for $59.99. It includes the 42mm claw for Toyota Steering Racks like on the 3rd Gen 4Runner.
Thanks for the excellent videos Timmy. I own a 2000 4Runner SR5 with a Manual transmission and Federal emissions (1 Catalytic Converter). It's a unicorn, and I'm keeping it going by watching your videos. I parked it in 2017 because it needed a lot of parts replaced and I couldn't afford to do it. I've always wrenched on my own vehicles, but life happens sometimes.
I've owned it since December 2001 when it had 24K miles on it. It's got 222,400 miles on it now. It's been lifted most of its life. I have Bilstein 5100/Tundra TRD springs on the front, OME 891/60027 on the rear.
Since the beginning of June, 2022 I've replaced:
Rear worn out Downey Off-Road springs with OME 891 - OME 60027 rear shocks are still good
Rear Lower Control Arms with SPC Performance heavy duty rear LCA - Part #25945
Rear sway bar bushings and end links. Energy Suspension bushings
Front CV axles - Trakmotive "Xtended Travel" Part # TO-8043
Front Sway bar bushings and end links - ES bushings
Front Steering Rack bushings - Whiteline
Front Lower Ball Joints - Sankei 555
Front Upper Control Arms - JBA - Thanks for the install video on those!
I just pulled the front lower control arms today and I'm going to install the Whiteline LCA bushings - Thanks again for your video!
I ordered Sankei 555 inner and outer tie rods and will be replacing those as well - Thanks for this video!
You guys do a great job. There is a bigger aftermarket parts industry for these 3rd Gen 4Runners than when I was regularly driving it. I didn't see some stuff that appeared during the 2015-2017 timeframe when I knew it needed some TLC. I'm glad the parts and support are there now.
Thanks for sharing all of that. Glad our videos have helped you out.
@@TimmyTheToolman Liked and Sub'd.
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Thank you for your excellent videos - real confidence boosters! I chose to buy a 30mm open-end spanner and a cheap 42mm crow foot (£8 on eBay) I ground large chamfers on the crow foot to make it fit the narrow flats of the inner tie rod. Thanks again.
You're very welcome Ned. Good job finding affordable tools you could modify for the job. Glad our videos are helping you out.
This guy got me through my balljoints today. While I was doing it the tie rod would not let me finish. Thanks Tim you really put out solid advice for us little guys.
You're very welcome.
First,
also, for some reason I thought you already had a video on this. I hated doing this swap because of lack of the right tools.
Hey Seydzh, this was the first job that I just decided to quit on because I was stumped on how to get the inner tie rod off properly. Even if I did have a bench grinder, I didn't really want to grind down either my new 30mm Gear Wrench open end wrench or do the same to a crescent wrench. I also wanted to avoid showing the use of a pipe wrench for this job even though I recommend it as an option if money is tight, because I know I would have received a lot of crap about it from people, especially the RUclips trolls who love to point out when they believe you're techniques are wrong.
I used the 12" Cobra Pliers from Knipex and the jaws are nice and narrow, it is basically a better gripping pipe wrench generally used for gripping objects without flat surfaces like pipes, but it is also 50$ just for those pliers. They come in handy from time to time on stubborn items.
Gotcha. Looks like a pair of Channel Locks.
Very detail information bruh!!! Cool vid👌🤙
Thanks Brah! Glad you like it.
Timmy, I was so hopeful this morning because I was going to be changing the lower balljoints and outer tie rod ends because both were loose and one boot was cracked. The drivers side outer tie rod absolutely refuses to come loose from the inner tie rod end. We used adjustable wrenches, PB Blaster, heat, and a pipe wrench to no avail. I had to stop attempting to take it off because I was afraid I was going to damage my steering rack. Now my option as I see it is to try and remove the inner tie rod while still attached to the outer tie rod end. I am ready to push this hope smasher off a cliff and hope it explodes. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble working on a car ever. Talk me off the ledge of mysteriously having a Tacoma in my driveway that catches on fire while I "sleep".
Unfortunately, there are days of wrenching like this for all of us. We get seriously frustrated. We cuss, maybe throw things, and then we walk away losing the battle but planning on coming back the next day to win the war. You will succeed. Use more heat and penetrant and you'll eventually get that MoFo off.
Scrolling through the comments I was thinking I would run into somebody that has had this issue as well before. If I’m understanding this right in this situation the inner tie rod would not screw out from the outer tie rod likely because of a rusted on jam/set nut. I’ve run into this before and thought well if I can break loose the inner tire rod from the steering rack why not just do that and take it all out in one piece. The inner tie rod still connected to the outer tie rod. In my experience this has saved me a lot of time and frustration trying different methods to finally get that set nut to break loose. In my situation I had bought new inner and outer tie rods so I just used them. But with the inner and outer tie rods removed in one piece this would allow you to put it in a bench vise and put a lot more force/torque on that nut to break it loose without risking damaging your steering rack. Curious if others have done it this way. Like I said when I did this job I had bought new parts so I didn’t plan on reusing anything but if that jam/set not gave me any grief I didn’t even bother messing with it I just went directly to breaking loose the inner tire rod from steering rack and called it good.
wow, this video is much more clear than the other people's videos. excellent work and explanation.
We're glad you think so. Thanks for the compliment. We're all about empowering people to do their own work and that's why we put in the extra time to deliver very detailed videos to our viewers. Happy Wrenching!
This was all the info I needed. thanks!!😁
You're welcome Juan.
I understand there are numerous reasons for "loose steering" or steering that swims around (constantly having to correct, etc). But after UBJ, LBJs, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings, shocks, springs, and an alignment etc... I'm thinking it's time for inner/outer tie rods. Hoping that fixes it
Hey Hunter, have you looked into the Steering Rack Guide Replacement? We have a video for that: ruclips.net/video/r4Hhl225E8A/видео.html There's also another chance the play is within your main steering shaft. The main shaft is made to collapse and telescope together as a safety feature for a front end collision. The shaft can develop a little play over time and that little bit of play can translate to significant slop in your steering. We just shot a video showing how to repair this and it will be coming out soon. This repair does possibly defeat the safety feature, but it has been the fix for people tired of having slop in their steering. Stay tuned.
Do you still condemn the inner tire rod end even if there is no lateral play in the joint?
If there's no detectable play in the joint, it's my opinion they don't need to be replaced. Tony wanted to replace them so we did, but I'm of the opinion that he replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced.
Tim, besides being a great mechanic and thinker you’re surely so honest and humble and that is very rare nowadays. I and obviously thousands of other people around the world appreciate what you’re doing for us and for who you are. You’re a great guy and we are lucky to have you. Pls keep it up… Many Tnx from othe other side of the pond!
Thanks for the very nice compliment. I truly appreciate it! I'm very honest with my abilities and I think I have a decent mechanical aptitude. Where I do think I shine is with my willingness to do the necessary research to be successful and then the balls to just go for it. What most don't know about Sean and I, is the videos we make are for the most part us doing the job for the very 1st time. So, we are literally learning and teaching at the same time. I also think I have an above average ability to deliver the subject matter in a clear and organized way so the viewer can follow along without getting lost and thus be successful with the job. Sean possesses all these skills too. He actually has a very sharp mechanical and problem solving mind. Quite often when we hit a stumbling block, Sean comes up with the solution before I do.
Again, thank you so much for the kind words. I thrive on people like yourself who take the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
I second this notion 110 per cent
@@efil4kizum Thanks! Sean and I appreciate it!
Really like those adjustables !!
Hey Jake, they are the nicest adjustable wrenches I've ever used for sure. You can get them locked onto whatever you're working on and pretty much have zero play.
Wouldn't a larger pair of channel locks have also worked to loosen? Once you break it free, it's hand twist. I guess the issue would be if he flat surfaces don't allow you to go around to the full tight point with channel locks?
A channel locks to break a fastener free requires a lot of hand grip strength. I don't know if it would work for this application. If you're a big guy with gorilla hand strength, maybe it could work.
After watching your video about replacing the lower ball joints i decided to do the same to my 1st gen Tacoma for peace of mind. It went well until I tried to attach the outer tie rods and discovered that they were shot. After watching this video you made me realize that i could replace them myself. Thanks to your hard work on these videos folks like me that are not mechanically inclined have a chance at doing this. I'm guessing i'm saving money but i know that all of those bolts are the correct torque and all of the proper steps have been taken. Keep filming brother.
It’s comment like these Barry Morton, that reaffirms our efforts & makes us stoked to hear you were successful in your DIY service to your truck. We agree that knowing your bolts are properly torqued is an added bonus considering you know it’s getting done right & you’re saving money at the same time.
Looks like a job for my Knipex Pliers Wrenches
Could you share a link for these Knipex wrenches? I have several pairs of Knipex pliers that I like.
@@TimmyTheToolman Sure thing - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EXOK22 I just picked these up a week ago in 7" and 10" and they're great. Low profile heads and great gripping strength with a "ratcheting" action due to the design. They should be great for the type of truck wrenching I've been doing.
Boy you're right about the getting the inner off. I've got an FJ cruiser. With big tires. So I bent one once. Had to be fixed on the trail, as I was rock crawling. A pair of 16 inch channel locks worked. But I did not hold the rack with a wrench. Got away with it. But ya not fun.
That's what wheeling is all about, building and breaking. But it's always nice to have the right tool for the job whether it's a trail fix or maintenance at home.
Hi Tim! If you go through NAPA and get the 555 inner tie rods it comes with a new lock/jam nut. I’ve found “Three Five” (555) parts to be similar to OEM. Part number SR-3560
That's good to know. I'm pretty much a fan of buying OEM but I've heard decent things Sankei 555 brand.
Great video as always Tim.
We're glad you like it. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@TimmyTheToolman I am from Trinidad and Tobago in the Caribbean. I have a JDM 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado. The suspension is exactly the same. The ball joints and other parts are the same as well. So these videos really really helps me out with my diy repairs. Thanks so much. Excellent videos. By far the best I have come across. Keep on educating us.
@@sunilparas6606 Great to hear you're finding our videos helpful and thanks for the nice compliment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
My question.... Is the tie rod treads ends both left and right are clockwise or one end is counter clock wise?
Now you got me thinking, but I remember them both being lefty loosey, righty tighty.
Thank you so much! To anybody reading this, I would highly recommend NOT keeping the castle nut on when using the ball joint separator like Tim has. I kept the castle nut on to stop the tie rod from flying off when separating and the nut hit the ball joint so hard it mangle the threads on both the tie rod and nut. Original ball joints on 280k so there was a ton of pressure. Had to replace both tie rod and castle nut. Hope this helps and thanks again for the video!
You're welcome Mikey. Sorry to hear you mangled your tie rods.
Think I just did the same thing😂
Never reuse old nuts on suspension parts. Same with bolts and cotter pins.
Great videos, but the inside joint is a rack end it screws into the steering rack, inner tie rod looks like outside tie rod, usually used on stearing box
You lost me with your comment. The joint that screws into the steering rack is the inner tire rod. The outer tie rod connects to the inner tie rod and to the lower ball joint.
I would use blue thread lock. Mine came with red thread lock but I don't recommend putting red on the inner tie rod. Blue thread lock should be fine. Then the lock washer will make sure it doesn't come lose. I think steering is very important to not come apart while driving on highway at 85 mph.
Sure you're not going to hurt anything with blue loctite.
If the outer tie rod threads at the knuckle joint spin while tightening the castle nut, what is a good method to keep the threaded rod stationary? I tried a different style ball joint separator upside down but there isn't enough room to spin the 19mm castle nut inside the U shaped portion of the separator. I am trying to avoid buying the impact driver. I did get it with a second jack pushing the outer tie rod up but that seems like it might flatten the threads because it is coming in at an angle. Suggestion for others, I picked up a new scissor jack for $12 at the junk yard.
Using a jack to push the tie rod firm into the lower ball joint is the right technique to stop the shaft of the tie rod from spinning. The tie rod shaft and the hole it goes into is tapered. By applying pressure under the tie rod, you're creating the friction necessary to get the castle nut spun on and bottomed out. If the castle nut threads and tie rod threads were in perfect shape and the nut threaded on smoothly, you wouldn't have this issue. But, either the nut threads get a bit compromised or the shaft threads get a little rough, and now the force required to turn the nut on the tie rod shaft threads is more than the force required to spin the tie rod joint.
Just a note from a lifelong bicycle shop mechanic (nice bike stand btw): Park Tool makes a 30mm headset wrench that is flat enough for those tie rods. Think they're about $20. Beer goes a long way at local bike shops too. 🙂
You know what's funny is I own those wrenches. I just forgot that I have them because who works on old school headsets anymore. I have a few bikes with old school headsets still but I haven't worked on them in ages.
@@TimmyTheToolman Haha, yeah I see less threaded headsets every year it seems. I enjoyed your video though! Helped me a bunch.
@@verissimus45 Good to hear. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I've been working on my own bicycles for 30+ years. I built all my race bicycles and many times laced up my own wheels too. I've got some old cruisers too, the oldest being from 1934, and those are fun to work on too.
@@TimmyTheToolman That's awesome! Hang on to that 1934 for sure! I'm the wheel builder and bike restoration guy at our shop, although these days I don't have too many people asking me to lace wheels. Love working on vehicles too, but bicycles have always been my passion.
@@verissimus45 Yeah, nobody really laces up wheels anymore unless they're old school like you and I. Everyone buys pre-built wheels and carbon is king. I still lace up aluminum rims and it's good enough for me.
Hey Tim, great video's as usual. Quick question, I'm planning on doing inner and outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints this weekend will I still need to get the tie rod end puller or with having the ball joints loose will i be able to slide it off without? Just wanting to make sure I get all of my eggs in one basket.
You'll need the puller.
Thank you for the thorough video I'm getting ready to attempt this job myself on my 93 Chrysler labaron convertible Wish me luck
You're welcome and good luck!
Seized lock nuts cannot do alignment. Doing mine soon.
Try some heat on the lock nuts. Also, try some penetrant like Kroil. I'd spray some Kroil on them the day before and then apply heat with a butane torch to help loosen the lock nut. Good luck with the job.
Timmy The Toolman
I have to do the rear lateral links also for same reason. Shops have told me they cannot do alignment even after using acetylene. I saw how much they struggled. Rust belt. I will more than likely cut between the outer and inner to get inner tool on.
Great video sir. Thank you
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Thanks for the links to them adjustable wrenches
Thanks again. Sean and I always try to provide links to tools that we know aren't going to be in your average DIYer's tool arsenal.
It is easier to count the turns of outer tie rod while unscrewing it from the inner rod....
Sure, whatever you think is easier. But, how do you quantify a partial turn? Do you have special degrees viewing eyes? With making match marks and counting the amount of threads exposed, you will guarantee you will be able to get the new tie rod in the same exact position.
Just took off my tie rod ends inner and outer and found they were severely worn and the right side inner was actually bent about 10 degrees.
Thanks for the video, step by step was spot on. I’m waiting on my kit and a set of rotors and pads. You guys are awesome. Not too bad for a firefighter.
Thanks for the comment, Darrell.
Why would anyone watch porn when you can watch this? That was well done. Learned a ton. Thank you
Now that's a hell of a compliment. Better than Porn. I like that!
Thanks!
You're welcome!
hi mahew makes a very good inner tie rod remover and it is not that much do you know if that would work on this toyota ?
We're not familiar with that tool. If it has the right size adapter to fit onto the inner tie rod, I suppose it would work. But, with those specialty tie rod tools, how do you operate the tool from the wheel well while holding the end of the steering rack steady? You can't unless you have someone helping you. It's clear to me the Toyota Engineers intended for you to hold the shaft while breaking free and tightening the inner tie rod because they put flat sections onto the ends of the shafts so you could hold it with a wrench. They also show a pictogram in the factory service manual of using two tools to remove the inner tie rods. I don't know if it's a big deal that you don't hold the shaft or not, but I didn't what to find out the hard way when filming this job if it does matter. My best guess is it probably doesn't matter. Those shafts look to be pretty stout and could handle the torsional force from loosening and tightening.
Very good video sir
Thanks Brandon. Glad you like it.
Good video!
Thanks!
very well explained video, keep uploading these kinda videos. youre doing a lot of people hell of a favour.
We're happy to know you appreciate the level of detail and instruction our videos provide. This is what separates us from most DIY Automotive channels. We don't have plans of stopping any time soon. Happy Wrenching!
I have to service the right inner rod end on my rig. There is a tool Harbor Freight makes for this job, I used on my older Forester, had to modify it a bit but it worked great, even allowing you to torque the rod end to service specs. Great video as always!
Good to know about the Harbor Freight tool.
Does anyone have the toyota part number for that set nut on the outer tie rod since it doenst come with the new one?
I had good luck with "Cal-Van Tools 946 Low Profile Inner Tie Rod Tool" from Amazon ($12) on my 2000 Tundra, it would probably work on 4runner as well. With that you can use a ratchet or even an impact on the inner tie rod. You can also use a torque wrench when reinstalling.
Thanks for the tip Scott.
I was gunna say “ use a pipe wrench lopp” but you covered it lol. Great video! Thanks
Thanks Dane. Glad you like the video.
Chain vice grips work wonders too.
Excellent! So right to say the important stuff at least twice. Also super that you give us so many options; money is (always) tight.
Thanks for the comment Jack.
Excellent video and very helpful. I've just done this replacement on my Landcruiser in the UK. One thing that always amuses me with these videos however is the ease that you remove the old split pin, mine had 22 years worth of rust so I ended up breaking the old one off flush and shearing the rest off with a spanner as I undid the nut, the thread was FUBAR anyway and I was replacing the trackrod end at the same time. Thanks for the videos though. Tim Falce UK
Glad you found our video helpful. Yeah, I've had one cotter pin do what you said and that was on a guys truck who lives near the coast and it was rusted in there. Happy Wrenching my UK Brother! My last name is Watson by the way. My dad's family came from England.
Tony looked like nick saban
Great video, i had the parts for about a year waiting on mechanic but i can do it my self now I've been procrastinating on it until now... Thank you
Thanks for that.. really like you talk with too much detail. Sometimes it saves you hours of work until knowing such details. Or figure out what is going on or what went wrong
Thanks again and wish you the best
Glad you like our style. We would much rather give people too much information than not enough. If the information is too much, people can just fast forward to the part they need clarification on. If there's too little information, we run the risk of leaving people lost on how to successfully finish the job. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
@Timmy The Toolman
Sure agree with you. Especially for DIYs for the first time they can find these details are very much helpful. On the other hand, the more advanced DIYs can skip some as you said.
Please don't be intimidated with someone tells you.. oh this is not important to know or that is very easy obvious or so. I speak for myself and consider myself more advanced DIY but also got so much out of your videos.
Thanks so much
Great vid as always, I'd would appreciate you showing a few ways to check the outer tie rods and maybe compare the old inner tie rods with the new ones
Btw. I'm on my first year of mechanic school
And I like playing your videos for the class, even tho they don't speak English
Also nice t shirt
Thanks Hugo. Glad you like the video and even cooler you share my videos at your mechanic school. To check a tie rod to see if it's still good is basically checking for any joint play. Sometimes you can do that my simply grabbing onto the tie rod and push and pull on it trying to detect play. Another way is to use the tire as leverage and push and pull on the tire with one hand while having the other hand on the joint trying to detect if there's any play in the joint.
Timmy, I literally just came across your channel about an hour ago and have learned more from all of your little details and sidemodes than I have from any other source. I recently changed both inner and outer tie rods on my 2018 4runner and really wished I would have come across the above video beforehand. I used the mentioned Lisle 54500 Large Inner Tie Rod Tool but found it somewhat difficult to get a good grip as the tool didn't fit all that well in the tight space given. I was able to use the Lisle tool to loosen the inner tie rods on both sides of the truck without too much effort, I'm supposing because the truck is only 3 years old, but the previous owner had taken the truck off-roading (evident by the 20lbs of mud and silt packed between the skid plates and undercarriage that neither the previous owner or dealer I purchased from cleaned off the truck, until I made them). My reasoning for replacing both inner and outer tie rods is that the steering had always felt somewhat sloppy and since the truck had been off-road, I did not trust that the previous owner did not cause damage to the steering, as he did bang up the front skid plate and the skid plate over the gas tank also has a large dent in it (most likely caused by large boulder rocks) Anyway, I found that the inner tie rods did have some play to them, once I got them off and the outer tie rod boots were both squeezed and seemed to be starting to leak grease.
After replacing both inner and outer tie rods with factory replacements and having the truck aligned, I seem to continue experiencing a slight noise (similar to metal tapping metal) when turning the steering wheel either left or right while parked or moving at slow speeds or fully hitting the brakes at slower speeds.
Two quick questions... 1. Any idea what this might be? I'm wondering if I might not have fully tightened the inner tie rods properly or could it be damage caused to the steering rack/steering rack shaft? Seems the 5th generation 4runner also does not have any washers between the inner rods and steering shaft, like the one's in your above video. 2. How can some of us DIY'ers get our hands on a Toyota Factory Service Manual for a newer 5th generation model or are all 5th generation model manuals the same ( meaning a 2012 manual pretty much applies to a 2018 since not much has changed)
Thanks again so much for doing what you do and helping all us in the process!!! Looking forward to your continued videos and also going through your library of previous videos!!!!
That noise could possibly be coming from the front sway bar. Take a look at the brackets and the end links and see that the bushings are good and the fasteners are tight.
You can't buy the physical Toyota factory service manuals for newer Toyotas but you can access information online via the Toyota Tech Info system. You can pay a fee and access the information. I usually pay $20 for a 2-day description and download the info I require.
techinfo.toyota.com
At the bottom of that page you can click on a link that describes the minimum system requirements. You basically need a PC computer operating Windows 7 or 8. I bought a used Dell laptop from an Ebay seller just so I could access the Tech Info website.
You're very welcome. Great to hear our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching!
Great video, thanks. My Sequoia has a creak when turning - close to full lock. Could this be a tie rod?
Hey James, glad you like the video. A creak from a tie rod? Maybe. I think you should get under the rig and have somebody turning the wheels back and forth lock to lock and see if you can pinpoint the source of the noise. Just choose someone you trust that won't run you over. ;-)
Timmy The Toolman thanks Tim. I won’t choose the wife then!
@@jamesg4266 Now that's funny James. Smart man!
Is anyone else having a really hard time getting the outer tie rod off? I am putting my entire body weight into it and it won’t budge. pb blaster and wd40 aren t helping either
Time to use some heat my friend! Heat up the nut to expand it with a torch, just be careful and try not to burn yourself.
- Sean
Great tutorial video. Possible damage to steering rack when torquing inner tie rod has been my concern. Now I can work on it with confidence.
Thank Joe! Glad our video gave you the confidence you needed.
YES!!!!!!!!! I just found out I had to replace mine and guess who’s doing it next week!
That's some good timing I reckon. Good luck with the job and Happy Wrenching!
Hey Tim, if I'm doing both the inner and outer tie rods, could I just skip removing the outer and start the inner right away?
I suppose you could. You would still need to disconnect the outer tie rod from the balljoint though. Here's another thought though, if you go 4wheeling, I'd hold onto those tie rods as trail spares in case you break one. Having them separated from each other in advance might make things easier when you're out in the field with limited tools.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the tips! Your videos have helped me work on my 4runner. And thanks to your videos, you've inspired me become an automotive technician. I'm now in automotive school!
@@tjalanes8262 That's freaking awesome TJ. I think you're the first person who has said our videos have inspired them to become an automotive technician. Thanks for sharing this with me. Maybe I'll be watching your RUclips videos one day. Good luck with school and kick ass!
I’m looking to get new clamps inner and outer for the boot. Anyone have the parts numbers for those by chance?
I doubt anyone is going to answer your question here. Someone might be able to on a Toyota forum like T4R.org. Or you could just visit the parts counter at your local Toyota dealer and order it there. I realize you'll pay more than online prices, but they can't be thet expensive. If we knew the part numbers, we'd tell you, but we don't.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy
I did this job a year or so ago. And of course I ran into the same headache with the wrenches. I ended up grinding down some cheap adjustable wrench. Thankfully I live near a harbor freight. Now, whenever I see that wrench I think about that awkward/frustrating job. Good video Timmy.
Thanks Donovan. Yeah, this job threw me for a loop. I didn't like giving up on this one the first time I was trying to film this job with Tony, but I also wanted to show a way to do it without resorting to grinding down my wrenches and/or resorting to the pipe wrench. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
I had one of my welders just grind down half of my 2 Cresent wrenches , they look cool .
Yep that would work. Nice Macgyvering.
Wow superb video even if you watch it and don’t actually do the work it shows how much work is involved how much tools etc is needed.
Thanks! We appreciate the nice compliment. We're glad you found the video informative. Some of these jobs we perform do take a lot of work and a lot of tools to accomplish but we always feel really good when we're done because we learned something, we saved ourselves or somebody else a lot of money and we get a great sense of accomplishment of being successful with the job. It's a WIN on many levels. Happy Wrenching!
Leave it to the elders... took a chunk of scrap 1/4" steel and cut a notch out matching the rack size, filed it to fit and rounded off the grip end... tada, poor man's rack wrench. Fit like a snug glove. Probably could have done the same for the rod and side, and I guess if you were committed you could even make a half inch drive hole and make a poor man's Crow-foot.
Pipe wrench won in the end.
Love all these vids Timmy, it's like an encyclopedia rabbit hole lol
Good job Macgyering your own tools. Glad you like what we do. Happy Wrenching!
New camera?
It's the same one we've had for a while. GoPro Hero 5 with an external mic.
I have a 5th gen 4runner, two independent shops have diagnosed it with a bad right front inner tie rod end. The stupid toyota dealership refuses to admit anything is wrong. trying another toyota dealership soon. Hopefully they fix it otherwise I'll be doing it myself. thanks for the video.
Ok, good luck. You might just want to do it yourself and save a ton or money.
wow! that ITR OEM is 247$ MSRP each as of 3/2o23 ... 170$ at OEM online parts dealer with 31% off... is an equivalent MOOG brand ITR from a RockAuto ok to use for this item?
I wouldn't use Moog but many guys do. What I tell people, is if they want to replace inner tie rods, they may as well just buy a new steering rack. A new steering rack goes for around $530 and it comes with new inner tie rods. That's a much better deal in my opinion.
FWIW dept.
The pipe wrench works great.
BUT, as the 30m wrench wasn't available, I DID just use the rack itself for the resistance.
NOW, here are two tips:
Try to move the rack as far as you can, inwards, to you're not twisting a long section.
NEXT, and this is actually important, is to to heat the threaded part where you put the pipe wrench, with a torch.
Don't get it red hot or anything, just enough to soften the "Loctite" on those threads. Unscrews easily, and you are not putting so much twist on the rack.
Great tips. Thanks for sharing them.
Timmy! Sending you loads of love from the Colorado mountains!
Appreciate it bro! We should make a trip out there soon! #sicnods!!!
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you Sean!
my 98runner with 150k has drooping/sag and my mechanic said that it was loose but probably safe. I just purchased new lower ball joints oem from ebay bc i dont want to risk my wheel falling off like i have seen in some videos. Would you recommend replacing lower/outer tie rods and control arms as well when replacing ball joints? my front tie rods look very rusty and I hear an odd noise sometimes when my steering is alll the way to the left when leaving a parking spot. I am having my mechanic do the work so I figure I could save some on labor costs to replace all these parts at the same time. thanks agin for your help and great content - has helped me a ton in learning and restoring my 4runner. god bless
A reason to replace tie rods is if there's detectable play in the joint. Control arms only need to be replaced if they are rusted out. Shops suggest replacing the whole control arm to their customers, because they know their high labor rates will make just replacing the bushings not cost effective. It's also an easier money-maker for them to replace the whole arms. If you have the space and time, I suggest getting into doing your own work. You'll save tons of money and learn a new skill. We have videos galore to help you out. Good luck!
Timmy! Excellent content per usual! What were the Bacho adjustable wrench part numbers that you ordered from Jeff? THANKS! Daniel
Links to the Bacho wrenches are in the video description. You just have to click on "more..." to expand it fully.
One of the best videos I have ever watched !
Thanks Mike. We appreciate the great compliment. Happy Wrenching!
I think you can rent inner tie rod tools from auto parts store for free.
That would be awesome if you can rent them. I think I'll check my local O'Reilly's and see if they do. If you find an auto parts store that does, please respond back and let us know.
I went to autozone and they do rent this tool - $90. Upon return you get a full refund. FYI - I recall on the harmonic balancer that I also rented a torque wrench that went up to 250 lbs and the holder that keeps the balancer in place when tightening it down - all from autozone. Long story short check with auto parts store on those one of a kind tools first if you are cheap like me. 27346 by OEM - master inner tie rod set.
@@danteg8311 Awesome. Thanks for commenting and sharing this.
When you're not the Factory, you can get by with hand judgment -- but also use blue Loctite. The entire procedure exists to stop the unit from coming apart. Loctite performs the same role. (belt & suspenders)
Yeah, we approve of this message.
I'm not sure what the problem is but, my comment is related to the IAC Test and clean video but, the comments section will not show up. The area just spins like it can't find the comments or something. Not sure if it's my issue or yours. Anyway, I just finished the throttle body and IAC clean and now my 4Runner will not start. But, I'm also having a P1300 igniter error code on coil #1 that seems to be causing the vehicle to stop running pretty much anywhere and at any time. It then will usually crank back up but, if it's hot it seems to exacerbate the problem. When hot it will stop and then I have to try several times but, it eventually restarts. So, it may have nothing to do with the fact that I liberally cleaned the IAC with throttle body cleaner. This is a long winded attempt to respond to your request to let you know if anyone has any problems after having cleaned the IAC with throttle body cleaner. I'm skeptical that my vehicle will not start because of the cleaning but, it did run this morning when I went to the grocery store and then I cleaned it and now it won't start. I wish the situation was not so complicated so we could get a better read on the cleaning method that should be used. Anyway, any help with either problem would be greatly appreciated. I double checked that everything is as it should be after the cleaning.
So you double checked that the IAC worked after the cleaning? I definitely don't see how cleaning the IAC could cause an igniter issue. Did you make sure all your electrical connectors were reconnected to the throttle body? If you did like we did and disconnected the center coil pack, did you remember to also reconnect that?
Timmy, you are great, have you tried to borrow the tie rod tool from the parts store, what is your opinion about counting the number of turns instead of threads, can you say what size is the tie rod castle nut, 14X1.25?. Thanks
I've never tried to borrow the tie rod tool. The thing about those tie rod tools is you're just cranking on the inner tie rod and not holding counter pressure on the shaft of the steering rack. Counting turns I suppose could work, but I've seen slight differences in the length of the tie rods so I think making matchmarks might be better. I don't know the size of the castle nut unfortunately, but M14 x 1.25 is a good guess.
I would use a pipe wrench $10 @ Harbor Freight.
That certainly is an option and I mention it in the video. You just have to be ok with marring up the tie rods with the serrated jaws of the pipe wrench. But, you better not grab ahold of the steering rack shaft with a pipe wrench. That wouldn't be smart.
BRAVO... Now l can replace my old tierod 👍
timmyyyyyyyyyyy!
So my front driver side outer tie rod broke right in half, and it caused my wheels to lock up, I had a guy replace the part and it seems to be running fine but iam worried that the wheels will lock up again, could this small part be the cause of that happening or do you think it was something else?
It was on a 2001 lexus es, iam thinking maybe some sort of break censor did that when the tie rod was broken.
Maybe the breakage of the tie rod broke the ABS sensor line and that's why the wheels locked up. Did the guy say he needed to replace anything other than the tie rod?
Timmy The Toolman the abs sensor light is on so maybe. He didnt say much just showed up and replaced the part, i asked him if he thinks it will lock up again and he said it should be fine now with the new part. Thanks for the reply back
@@elguerokabron You could probably find an ABS sensor wire at a PickNPull for your rig and replace it so you won't be looking at an ABS light on your dash all the time.
One of the best information video available. Thank you Sir.
Thanks for the nice compliment Javier. We appreciate it and you're very welcome.
Things have changed. Even OEM tie rod ends don't have the same amount of threads as the originals. The threaded section of a new tie rod end may be 1/4 to 1/2" shorter than the originals.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing this information.
How about using a nice solid plate with a extension bar Square that you can login and then use a ratchet instead that defeats your problem a plate which is wide enough like a ranch you will be probably cheaper to do that then by different types of tools for the job and grinding them down
It's hard to understand what you're suggesting as an alternative tool to get the job done. Many people have commented about tools that were affordable and worked for them.
V8 tools 42mm crows foot wrench fit rod end with no grinding required. Was $18 on eBay and you can fit a torque wrench on it
Nice to know Jim. Could you provide a link?
HEY T! THX FOR THE INTERESTING VIDEO. IS THIS PROCEDURE THE SAME FOR REPLACING INNER/ OUTER TIE RODS ON 2007 LEXUS ES350 SAME AS THIS TOYOTA TACOMA ?
I haven't worked on that Lexus model so I can't give you an accurate answer. But, I would imagine the steps would be very similar.
@@TimmyTheToolman K THX TALLY HO. ITS THE LAST OF THE SUSPENSION REBUILD. STILL A BIT OF DRIFT LEFT IN STEERING
@@MICHAELWALTON1 Good luck with the job!