You could put some steel plate on each end. 1inch or double up a 1/2 inch or triple 3/8 pieces and rhat would add a buch of weight as well. They can all be scrap, remnants, cutoff just what ever you havw lying around and fill the endplate voids.
i think a better idea would be another hydraulic operated blade on the back end to act as a counter weight ,stabilizer and push blade...just a thought to mention to the builder of the mini/micro excavator...or build one yourself and attach it to the machine and hook up the hydraulics to it with t fitting and pop off valve for safety and so the rest of the machine can continue to operate if that line blows....from the front blade and separate controls...
Did you weigh the protector plate for the drive motors? Also with the receiver hitch you could make a removable weight to mount there for certain situations where you need additional ballast.
i wanted to do this as well! i was wondering if you had a follow-up video on whether or not you noticed any difference with the additional wieght. i've noticed a little goes a long way especially with rear counter. great channel!
Good videos. Did that much counter weight make much of a difference? I need to add some counter weight to mine. Curious about how much weight it needs. Thanks for the ideas.
It helped but I also add a removable weight to the receiver I added. The hydraulics are very strong on these for there size and can get you in trouble if not careful.
just make a bumper slash guard out of 1 1/4" in thick scrap piece of flat stock x 10" wide x about 4 ft long bent to the size and shape of the rear guard and drill and tap it bolt on... it will weigh over 170 pounds rough calculation...put a 500-1000lb lifting eyelet hole in to put it in place with a engine hoist to save your back...
If you could collect enough lead wheel weights can melt then into a long rectangle using a wood frame, and when it is cool bend it to the shape of the back or where ever it could be bolted or glued to. Lead is so heavy and so malleable. Would have to paint it so it isn't toxic.
You could put some steel plate on each end. 1inch or double up a 1/2 inch or triple 3/8 pieces and rhat would add a buch of weight as well. They can all be scrap, remnants, cutoff just what ever you havw lying around and fill the endplate voids.
Excellent video. Very smart engineering.
i think a better idea would be another hydraulic operated blade on the back end to act as a counter weight ,stabilizer and push blade...just a thought to mention to the builder of the mini/micro excavator...or build one yourself and attach it to the machine and hook up the hydraulics to it with t fitting and pop off valve for safety and so the rest of the machine can continue to operate if that line blows....from the front blade and separate controls...
Great ideas. Ballast is what seems to be missing on these machines. It shouldn't have any problem handling up to 150 Lbs., probably more.
Did you weigh the protector plate for the drive motors? Also with the receiver hitch you could make a removable weight to mount there for certain situations where you need additional ballast.
Great idea. Would help if just lifting something when not swinging to the side.
Perhaps add a tractor weight plate hanger to the hitch. I like how both of you think.
i wanted to do this as well! i was wondering if you had a follow-up video on whether or not you noticed any difference with the additional wieght. i've noticed a little goes a long way especially with rear counter. great channel!
Yes it helped. I also made an additional weight to put in the receiver when I need even more.
Good videos. Did that much counter weight make much of a difference? I need to add some counter weight to mine. Curious about how much weight it needs. Thanks for the ideas.
It helped but I also add a removable weight to the receiver I added. The hydraulics are very strong on these for there size and can get you in trouble if not careful.
Maybe lead instead 5x denser.
Your sides aren't filled, that would maybe get you to 100lbs.
I'm gonna weld a spot to hang a removable weight rack
just make a bumper slash guard out of 1 1/4" in thick scrap piece of flat stock x 10" wide x about 4 ft long bent to the size and shape of the rear guard and drill and tap it bolt on... it will weigh over 170 pounds rough calculation...put a 500-1000lb lifting eyelet hole in to put it in place with a engine hoist to save your back...
Easier said than done.
If you could collect enough lead wheel weights can melt then into a long rectangle using a wood frame, and when it is cool bend it to the shape of the back or where ever it could be bolted or glued to. Lead is so heavy and so malleable. Would have to paint it so it isn't toxic.