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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- #quickitaly #marinewaterheater #boatwaterheater #boatheatexchanger #waterheaterelement #quickwaterheater #quickboiler #B3quick @quickitaly
The Quick model B3 boiler water heater that sits in the corner of our engine bay produces water from an electric heating element. It is normally robust and reliable but unfortunately is as vulnerable to hard calcified water as any other boiler.
If, like me, you have single pole circuit breakers on your consumer unit, the RCD can still trip EVEN when the circuit breaker is turned off. This is because on this occasion we had a negative to ground fault which in effect is STILL wired to the circuit.
Once we'd established that the fault was indeed the water heater, the obvious culprit was the heating element.
After only two years, the elements had accumulated huge amounts of mineral deposits from the hard water. This had caused the element to develop pin holes in the element causing water to leak out, onto the wires and causing a short circuit.
Replacing a water heater’s electric heating element SHOULD be one of the easier and cheaper maintenance jobs. But this is a sailboat.. and no boat job is either straight forward or cheap!
____
If you're a professional, expert or even an old salty sea dog with some good advice on how to service water heaters on sailboats, or an expert electrician who can explain ground faults better than I can (!) then please leave any constructive criticism, insight and advice in the comments below the videos.
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Magnificent- just what I needed to fix the same problem. Easy to follow and clarity at each critical point when replacing the heathing element. I used the o-ring (not the flat seal) with 3-4 rounds of plumber tape. Once again, very useful. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Thank you. I’ve just bought a new me boat and there is a 25lt version to check over.
Very helpful I am doing the same job now😊
Very informative..love the moment you took a sip (marker 4:14) of the water…😆
If I was stuck somewhere and needed assistance to repair and solve stuff, you would be my nr 1 choice. You have a very sound approach to challenges, using the available tools at hand.
We’ll it’s usually out of necessity.. I learnt early on that exasperation and swearing at inanimate objects has no real practical value.. although it does elevate stress sometimes!
Thanks for putting this together!!
Well done. Thanks for sharing. Appreciated it ! Best Ed
Very useful! Thank you!
Great video, as always, Woody! I had exactly the same thing happen (tripping shore power) on INTENTION after I had replaced the water heater with the exact same one you have. However, to replace the element, I just took the whole water heater out and put it on the doc. When I looked inside, there was tons of calcium deposits, so I sprayed the inside with a jet stream from the hose and turned the whole unit upside down and WOW. Tons of crap. I repeated spraying and emptying until no more stuff would come out. SO NOW, I pull the unit out every year. I do it the same time I change the engine coolant. I fill the unit with a few liters of vinegar and swish it around and leave it as long as is practical and dump THAT. The water here in Greece creates lots of calcium build-up. The unit is pretty light-weight when empty so its easy to get out.
I guess that’s a job I need to do next maintenance stopover. I did what any self respecting boat owner does.. took one look inside, grimaced and closed it up again!
@@MothershipMaintenance …and then added it to the honey-do list!
I bought a 15 L version of the B3 last week. I am still awaiting delivery.
Since all four pipe connections are the same size (G 1/2) I was thinking of how to prevent the element being calcified or corroded the way it is. I came up with the following idea and I wonder what you think of it:
How about switching the plumbing up some: The red an blue colored pipes plumbed into the engine coolant system and the two white pipes become the drinking water circuit. So instead of having fresh (oxidized) water in the boiler and in contact with the heating element the boiler is filled with coolant which is by its very nature oxigen free and anti corrosive.
The only issue I was worried about is does the coil inside the boiled allow being drained through either white colored pipe ?
What do you think captain ?
PS: plumbing the boiler having the two sets of pipes switched may sound weird or even crazy but if you look at central heating systems which were very common in the 1990 and early 2000's the two styles of plumbing in an indirectly heated boiler were very much used. In fact I have an example of either way: coil runs drinking water or coil runs coolant in several central heating system boilers.
Muy buen video tendrias que limpiar con vinagre cada 2 meses para optimizar el funcionamiento del termo un saludo desde Argentina !!!
Thanks for the great post!. I have one of these boilers in a Ford Transit Van, RV. It's connected to the diesel engine heat exchange and also I have it connected to a battery bank. Every time I drive, the hot water from the engine trips the boiler's thermostat. It's a real pain to access the reset under the van. I've set the thermostat to max, but it still happens. I can't find a way to reduce the temperature on the heat exchange water. Any thoughts on what to do? I have hot water when I drive, but if we're parked for a while we don't have hot water because we cant use the battery power. Any thoughts on what to do?
You should have said at the time woody. I have a 56mm box spanner and a spare element. The Ferritaria in El ejido €18 for element and €7 for the thermostat
I bought a spare one at the time from SVB24.. but yes I heard they're available from local plumbing shops at a fraction of the cost. Funnily enough ever since leaving Almerimar I've only changed it once.. and that was only as part of routine maintenance. I think the water in Almeria is extremely harsh on boiler elements!
interesante!!
Hi can I ask which seal did you use, the flat seal or the o ring? James
I can’t remember now James.. but I know using both definitely does NOT work 🙄
How is the thermostat removed? It looks like you just pull it away - is this correct?
Yes, it's just clipped onto the housing
Good video, l have a aquastar Oceanranger 38 1989,and have same issue, elements need changing, l have looked high and low and cannot find the tank, any idea please
Sorry but not sure. Have you tried finding the part number from an assembly diagram and searching for it online? I've found SVB24.com in Europe are generally good for most boat things.
Were you able to recover that old anode fragment in the bottom of the tank?
No Charles, I didn’t have any tools that could reach it so it’s still there :/ still not sure why it fell off in the first place 🤷♂️
🤷 Promo`SM!!!