Using a Fret Rocker is a really good way to double check every fret is level with it's neighbours (see link below) It's not necessary that the frets be straight from one end of the fingerboard to the other, it's more important that the tops of the frets are even heights. The Fret Levelling File usually gets them even but it doesn't hurt to check with a Fret Rocker. luthiersupplies.com.au/fret-rocker-multi-length-straightedge
I've just started experimenting with a dry PTFE lube Selley's Ezy Glide to coat the underside of the strings to try & reduce fret wear. The initial feel is that bends are easier & smoother, but I'll also be giving my frets a little crowning/polishing soon.
I have a maple neck with no finish on it because I scalloped the frets. Should I use some oil or varnish to protect the wood, or is it enough to use Dr. Duck oil?
It's conventional to use some sort of lacquer finish to protect the maple. The main purposes of the finish are to help stop the maple getting dirty/discoloured and to reduce wear. Dr Ducks should be fine as long as you don't mind the maple potentially getting discolored over time.
It works equally well on compound radius fingerboards. The longer beam is an option instead of the diamond leveller and booth have their place. You need to be more careful when using the longer beam because it can take too much off the frets at each end of the fingerboard. We'll do a video comparing them soon!
@@AusLuthierSupplies Great! I thought it was always better to have a thinner beam or file rather than a wide one regardless of length. Only because these wide ones could potentially take too much out of the middle or mess with radius as only a small portion is in contact to the frets!
@@pk952 That is something to watch out for when using the diamond leveller, it will tend to balance in the middle. Using the circular motion and moving the leveller so that its centre is over the edges of the frets at times will ensure all of the frets get levelled, not just the middle.
Thanks for your question. If it's maple with finish on it just don't use steel wool on the fingerboard, it will scratch the finish. Instead use the fingerboard guard and just polish the frets with the steel wool.
Fantastic instruction 👌
How would you check that the frets are all level? Normal straight edge?
Using a Fret Rocker is a really good way to double check every fret is level with it's neighbours (see link below) It's not necessary that the frets be straight from one end of the fingerboard to the other, it's more important that the tops of the frets are even heights. The Fret Levelling File usually gets them even but it doesn't hurt to check with a Fret Rocker. luthiersupplies.com.au/fret-rocker-multi-length-straightedge
I've just started experimenting with a dry PTFE lube Selley's Ezy Glide to coat the underside of the strings to try & reduce fret wear. The initial feel is that bends are easier & smoother, but I'll also be giving my frets a little crowning/polishing soon.
That's interesting and makes sense if you reduce friction you'll reduce wear. If in doubt, lubricate ;)
I have a maple neck with no finish on it because I scalloped the frets. Should I use some oil or varnish to protect the wood, or is it enough to use Dr. Duck oil?
It's conventional to use some sort of lacquer finish to protect the maple. The main purposes of the finish are to help stop the maple getting dirty/discoloured and to reduce wear. Dr Ducks should be fine as long as you don't mind the maple potentially getting discolored over time.
Does it work equally on a compound radius or do you need a longer beam?
It works equally well on compound radius fingerboards. The longer beam is an option instead of the diamond leveller and booth have their place. You need to be more careful when using the longer beam because it can take too much off the frets at each end of the fingerboard. We'll do a video comparing them soon!
@@AusLuthierSupplies Great! I thought it was always better to have a thinner beam or file rather than a wide one regardless of length. Only because these wide ones could potentially take too much out of the middle or mess with radius as only a small portion is in contact to the frets!
@@pk952 That is something to watch out for when using the diamond leveller, it will tend to balance in the middle. Using the circular motion and moving the leveller so that its centre is over the edges of the frets at times will ensure all of the frets get levelled, not just the middle.
Question..what is the problem with a maple fret board with finishing on it, towards the end of the video where your polishing
Thanks for your question. If it's maple with finish on it just don't use steel wool on the fingerboard, it will scratch the finish. Instead use the fingerboard guard and just polish the frets with the steel wool.
@@AusLuthierSupplies Thank you for your reply very helpful video
I did subscribe to your channel