Great video probably the best most straightforward guide I've seen for doing 206 brakes. I used your tip on adjusting rear drums worked great. Keep these 206 videos coming. ATB Steve
I just regreased my pads cause I was getting a nice little squeal from them. Then strangely enough I noticed you posted this, which was handy, because at least I can confirm I did everything correctly haha
Thanks for the video, I haven't done brakes in about 15 years and that was on a fiesta so this refresher was good. Also if anyone needs to bleed their brakes afterwords the nipple is 8mm
Well Done - Another excellent professional, clear, concise How To Video. Perhaps you could do a future video on how best to get audio from a Bluetooth Smartphone hooked up to the non Bluetooth Pug audio - lots of cheap options! and you could add the best one to your Piggy shop. Best regards and keep making them - Paul.
Thanks for the kind words. Funnily enough I've been having issues with Bluetooth stereos recently... Noticed the cheap dongles you can buy. Have been considering them. Will buy, try and if I see potential, do a video 👍 Thanks for watching... Hope you are subscribed 😉
I am doing my first brake job changing brake discs so I was wondering if it is necessary to put new bolts for caliper (19 mm). Some manuals say “new caliper mounting bolts will be needed on refitting”. Thanks a lot for helpful videos.
Hi. Thanks for the Vid. On 10:30 - what will happen if copper slip was applied on the mounting bracket bolts (the ones that get tightened really tight) ? Could it result in the bolt in sliding off later on?
Nothing really if they are tightened correctly. Bolts stay tight due to the torque applied which slightly stretches the threads against the opposing threads. Vibration can cause bolts to come loose but I've never known any personally and I'm quite liberal with copper grease.
On such a light car, unless you are on track on a regular basis, I don't see the need to be honest. Vented front discs yes, but I'd rather have a good handbrake than a bad handbrake and the ability to have cooler rear brakes ...which you generally don't need on a daily
Hey Piggy, great channel. I'm fairly near you, a bit north, where can I find a good pick n pull scrappy in these parts? A good one on Leamington closed a while back. Grr. TIA
I have to scour Facebook and eBay now. Nothing round here keeps cars long enough. Near Gloucester there is a well spoken of scrappy that keeps a lot of Peugeots but I've never visited myself
@@PiggyPower You might mean Harry Buckland and the Glou side of Cheltenham. Supposed to be good. It's just too damn far really. The yanks don't know they're born really - they've got massive yards everywhere with everything you would ever want!
Hi Piggy, I have a 206 GTI 180, 200,000kms, the standard front discs are a bit worn, are there bigger discs and callipers that will bolt straight on? Great vids btw.
See my 300mm brake upgrade video 👍👍 Although I have found if you buy good branded discs and pads, the 283mm setup is more than enough usually. Thanks for commenting and watching.... Hope that it's worth a subscription from you? 😉 🐷💪
Thanks for replying Piggy. Already a subscriber! Which model C4 were the replacement discs/callipers from? C4's not overly abundant down here in NZ. Can the rear discs be upgraded as easily as the fronts? Cheers.
19MM socket was NOT true for me so be aware . I had a T50 if i remember correctly (for the caliper mount) , the 13mm for the 'pad change' was correct . Overall a great tutorial , just be aware , that buying 10€ worth of tools will be no guarantee , and it's quite upsetting to find out in the middle of the job that, some important tool is missing . note2 , the piston can be pressed in by hand , it's not that easy, but is doable in a pinch . (a clamp of sorts is much recommended)
I'd be shocked if most people could push the piston in by hand. Sometimes with big grips/clamp it's still very hard to do. Some random 206s did have a T50 or even bigger from memory. Thankfully not many as they are rubbish bolt head designs for such a high torque bolt. No tool purchase is a bag purchase though if you intend to do repairs yourself. A 19mm socket is used extensively in different parts of a car, including wheel bolts. So, investment 👌
Never be in a hurry repairing a car... I find it's more likely to mess things up/cause more repairs or even miss something, which can make the car dangerous to drive. I'll keep it mind in for future, I should mention this for future videos.
Don't use copper grease, its petroleum based and that will swell the rubbers. Use ceramic grease like already was used. Also do not use copper grease on the carrier/ears or as you called eh " gulleys", in the beginning it wont matter but after 5.000 km the dust from the pads will get into the grease and create a hard stiff goo, doing the exact oposite of why you put the grease there. Clean up the carrier better, make sure thats clean. Regular brake dust will wash away when cleaning car/ rain, but not if combined with grease. Also, when pushing the piston back in the caliper, its better to open up the bleed nipple, and with every brake job you should always bleed the brakes anyway... at least push out the lower fluid a bit.
I partially agree with the rubbers... But I've used copper slip for 15/16yrs on all customer cars and my own in this and never had issues mid pad/disc life changes ... Some open the nipple, some don't, personal preference. I don't if I don't need to. Same with bleeding them, shouldn't be any need unless you are introducing air or dirt into the system. Again, never done it unless necessary. Can easily overcomplicate a guide like this, a diy person could easily mess up bleeding a brake caliper or snap the nipple of, all for no benefit.
@@PiggyPower Regularly bleeding the system is always good, as brake fluid also degrades due to its hygroscopic character. Especially near the caliper. If you do use copper grease then make sure you dont use too much that it gets lumpy, just a slight smudge. This isnt meant to over complicate things, and besides if you are that incapabel and can't bleed a brake you shouldnt be working on them. It's just if you do it, do it right. Not perse implying you are wrong, but just some details i'd advice to do different.
@@MonoLucas123 every 2 years brake fluid should be fully flushed and changed, for the reasons you highlighted. No need to do it any more frequently if I'm honest... I'd be happy to just see people do it every 2 years!... But this is just a pads/discs video. Agreed too on the amount of copper slip used. Don't want it flicking off onto the pad surface for obvious reasons. It's not about skill or knowledge to bleed the brakes it's about what goes wrong if the nipple snaps or they cross the threads or get an air bubble in there... Pads/discs is much simpler and more difficult to mess up in my experience of seeing DIY mechanics
@@PiggyPower hello again, i wanted to ask if you could help me locate the problem on my peugeot 206 2.0 gti. My rear tires are moving i think, becouse when i drive i can feed that the back of the car wants to swim on the road and i just bought the car few days ago and didnt have time to do any research on this problem
Indeed it is known to attack natural rubber... But natural rubber hasn't been used in piston seals or boots for some time now. More synthetic stuff like viton 👍
Great video probably the best most straightforward guide I've seen for doing 206 brakes. I used your tip on adjusting rear drums worked great. Keep these 206 videos coming.
ATB Steve
That is very kind to say.
So pleased I have helped someone out 👍
🐷💪
Thanks for the great tutorial. I feel confident enough to give it a go now. Cheers. 👍
Ace, stay safe 👍🐷💪
I just regreased my pads cause I was getting a nice little squeal from them. Then strangely enough I noticed you posted this, which was handy, because at least I can confirm I did everything correctly haha
Haha, well done! Nothing as embarrassing as squealing brakes... Well, maybe a squealing aux belt too.
Thanks for watching 🐷💪
One of the best video I have seen for changing pad and disc.. excellent work. thank you.
No problems! Glad you liked... Please subscribe if you can 👍🐷💪
@@PiggyPowerdone already.. keep up the good work 👏🏻👍🏻
Thankyou 💗
Thanks for the video, I haven't done brakes in about 15 years and that was on a fiesta so this refresher was good. Also if anyone needs to bleed their brakes afterwords the nipple is 8mm
Usually the front nipples are 11mm. But can be 8mm. Rears can also be 7mm! Never say "always"... I know you didn't .. but easy to think that!
Great video mate, mine has pad rattle.
Fix it!
7:30 is what makes this video absolutely brilliant!
thankyou ;)
Great! It is very easy to understanding. Many thanks!
No worries! Glad to help! Smash those buttons!!! 👌🐷💪
Will be using this in a few weeks! Buying a 306 front caliper kit t change all the covers and rubbers etc 👍👍
Have fun 👌🐷💪
Awesome, that’s really helpful. Thank you 👍
No worries 👌🐷
Good advice to put copper lube behind the disc... Thx👌
Just a tiny tiny bit though. Slither of it. 👍🐷💪
lovely tutorial i like the way you explain everything thums up buddy
Thankyou. That's very kind! Please click like and subscribe! 👍😃🐷💪
@@PiggyPower
Already done no worries mate
Well Done - Another excellent professional, clear, concise How To Video.
Perhaps you could do a future video on how best to get audio from a Bluetooth Smartphone hooked up to the non Bluetooth Pug audio - lots of cheap options! and you could add the best one to your Piggy shop. Best regards and keep making them - Paul.
Thanks for the kind words.
Funnily enough I've been having issues with Bluetooth stereos recently... Noticed the cheap dongles you can buy. Have been considering them. Will buy, try and if I see potential, do a video 👍
Thanks for watching... Hope you are subscribed 😉
I am doing my first brake job changing brake discs so I was wondering if it is necessary to put new bolts for caliper (19 mm). Some manuals say “new caliper mounting bolts will be needed on refitting”. Thanks a lot for helpful videos.
I've not once fitted new bolts. 👌 Clean threads and if concerned, use fresh loctite
Thank you for fast response, I will put some blue loctite on them 😉
No worries 😊👍 please take care... And subscribe 😁👍🐷💪
Well done pal i will now do my own as i find garages charge an arm and a leg lol
No worries, glad to help! Stay safe and work slow to ensure its done right 👌🐷💪
simple excellence, 10 out of 10
Wow, that's really kind words. Thankyou
What grease should be used on the sliders if needed?
Ideally specific brake grease, made by Liqui moly or ceramic Granville, brembo etc 👍 at a push, copper slip
Brilliant mate just what I needed
No worries! Glad it helped ..
Subscribe for a super helpful thanks!
😁🐷💪
Hi. Thanks for the Vid. On 10:30 - what will happen if copper slip was applied on the mounting bracket bolts (the ones that get tightened really tight) ? Could it result in the bolt in sliding off later on?
Nothing really if they are tightened correctly. Bolts stay tight due to the torque applied which slightly stretches the threads against the opposing threads. Vibration can cause bolts to come loose but I've never known any personally and I'm quite liberal with copper grease.
@@PiggyPower OK thanks. I did my breaks the first time this weekend. And that was the only 'mistake' I may have made.
No mistake. Just recheck the bolts after a few days driving. 👌
@@PiggyPower 👍🙏
very useful channel.
Thanks 👍🐷
Whether discs or drums are better on the rear axle? I have 206 1.4. I plan to put ventilated disks on front and replace drums with disc on rear.
On such a light car, unless you are on track on a regular basis, I don't see the need to be honest. Vented front discs yes, but I'd rather have a good handbrake than a bad handbrake and the ability to have cooler rear brakes ...which you generally don't need on a daily
Super love u videos .make caliper rebuild and painting
Caliper rebuilds aren't for the faint hearted to be honest and usually more cost effective to just get a re-man unit!
How is it that you are able to rotate the rotor with driveshaft? It’s in park or neutral?
Because the disc and the driveshaft are connected?
The gear the manual gearbox in is irrelevant to be honest.
Can i apply this to a 2005 Peugeot Boxer? Is it as straight forward to change the brake shoes?
No brake shoes were changed in this video...
But yes, the principles here would apply to 99.9% of brake setups like this on all sorts of cars 👍
🐷💪
Sorry PP I meant brake pads as in your video.
Yup, pretty simple if just doing the pads. Follow as per guide 👍🐷💪
I have a Peugeot 206 1.4I...can I put ventilated disks?
Yes. Most came with them as stock. 👍
You will need the calipers and pads to suit.
Hey Piggy, great channel. I'm fairly near you, a bit north, where can I find a good pick n pull scrappy in these parts? A good one on Leamington closed a while back. Grr. TIA
I have to scour Facebook and eBay now. Nothing round here keeps cars long enough. Near Gloucester there is a well spoken of scrappy that keeps a lot of Peugeots but I've never visited myself
@@PiggyPower You might mean Harry Buckland and the Glou side of Cheltenham. Supposed to be good. It's just too damn far really. The yanks don't know they're born really - they've got massive yards everywhere with everything you would ever want!
Hi Piggy, I have a 206 GTI 180, 200,000kms, the standard front discs are a bit worn, are there bigger discs and callipers that will bolt straight on?
Great vids btw.
See my 300mm brake upgrade video 👍👍
Although I have found if you buy good branded discs and pads, the 283mm setup is more than enough usually.
Thanks for commenting and watching.... Hope that it's worth a subscription from you? 😉
🐷💪
Thanks for replying Piggy.
Already a subscriber! Which model C4 were the replacement discs/callipers from?
C4's not overly abundant down here in NZ.
Can the rear discs be upgraded as easily as the fronts?
Cheers.
You don't need to upgrade the rears on a 206... They are already too big imho.
C4 VTS. 👍
Thankyou for being a subscriber! Exciting to have fans from the opposite side of the world!!
Very nice video,thx.
No worries 👌👍🐷💪
19MM socket was NOT true for me so be aware . I had a T50 if i remember correctly (for the caliper mount) , the 13mm for the 'pad change' was correct . Overall a great tutorial , just be aware , that buying 10€ worth of tools will be no guarantee , and it's quite upsetting to find out in the middle of the job that, some important tool is missing .
note2 , the piston can be pressed in by hand , it's not that easy, but is doable in a pinch . (a clamp of sorts is much recommended)
I'd be shocked if most people could push the piston in by hand. Sometimes with big grips/clamp it's still very hard to do.
Some random 206s did have a T50 or even bigger from memory. Thankfully not many as they are rubbish bolt head designs for such a high torque bolt.
No tool purchase is a bag purchase though if you intend to do repairs yourself. A 19mm socket is used extensively in different parts of a car, including wheel bolts. So, investment 👌
@@PiggyPower maybe i was lucky with the piston then..... yeah about the tool i don't mind , but it can mess things up if you're in a hurry
Never be in a hurry repairing a car... I find it's more likely to mess things up/cause more repairs or even miss something, which can make the car dangerous to drive. I'll keep it mind in for future, I should mention this for future videos.
Don't use copper grease, its petroleum based and that will swell the rubbers. Use ceramic grease like already was used. Also do not use copper grease on the carrier/ears or as you called eh " gulleys", in the beginning it wont matter but after 5.000 km the dust from the pads will get into the grease and create a hard stiff goo, doing the exact oposite of why you put the grease there. Clean up the carrier better, make sure thats clean. Regular brake dust will wash away when cleaning car/ rain, but not if combined with grease. Also, when pushing the piston back in the caliper, its better to open up the bleed nipple, and with every brake job you should always bleed the brakes anyway... at least push out the lower fluid a bit.
I partially agree with the rubbers... But I've used copper slip for 15/16yrs on all customer cars and my own in this and never had issues mid pad/disc life changes ...
Some open the nipple, some don't, personal preference. I don't if I don't need to. Same with bleeding them, shouldn't be any need unless you are introducing air or dirt into the system. Again, never done it unless necessary.
Can easily overcomplicate a guide like this, a diy person could easily mess up bleeding a brake caliper or snap the nipple of, all for no benefit.
@@PiggyPower Regularly bleeding the system is always good, as brake fluid also degrades due to its hygroscopic character. Especially near the caliper. If you do use copper grease then make sure you dont use too much that it gets lumpy, just a slight smudge. This isnt meant to over complicate things, and besides if you are that incapabel and can't bleed a brake you shouldnt be working on them. It's just if you do it, do it right. Not perse implying you are wrong, but just some details i'd advice to do different.
@@MonoLucas123 every 2 years brake fluid should be fully flushed and changed, for the reasons you highlighted. No need to do it any more frequently if I'm honest... I'd be happy to just see people do it every 2 years!... But this is just a pads/discs video. Agreed too on the amount of copper slip used. Don't want it flicking off onto the pad surface for obvious reasons.
It's not about skill or knowledge to bleed the brakes it's about what goes wrong if the nipple snaps or they cross the threads or get an air bubble in there... Pads/discs is much simpler and more difficult to mess up in my experience of seeing DIY mechanics
Perfect, help a lot!
Thankyou, please subscribe and tell your car loving friends about the channel 🐷💪
@@PiggyPower already doing it
But didnt you have to bleed out the brakes to get rid of all the air inside brakes fluid?
What air in the brake fluid?
Still not sure what you mean... However if you don't open the system in anyway to introduce air to the hydraulics... Then there is no air to remove 👌
@@PiggyPower hello again, i wanted to ask if you could help me locate the problem on my peugeot 206 2.0 gti. My rear tires are moving i think, becouse when i drive i can feed that the back of the car wants to swim on the road and i just bought the car few days ago and didnt have time to do any research on this problem
jack up the rear of the car and investigate 👌
Check for trailer arm bearing play or other bushes/bearings/dampers shot
Thank you mate
No worries! 👍
Please subscribe 👌
🐷💪
@@PiggyPower subscribed would appreciate just a sub back if u can please 👍🏻
Also i just subscribed 😎
Welcome, piglet and legend 🐷💪
2022.. thx for a video a made small mistake xD
No worries 👍👍👍🐷
I subscribed too
Thanks!
Everything went fine but both bolts cracked. Ok I wont change my pads then.
Both bolts cracked? How??! I've never ever broken any of those bolts, even using MASSIVE breaker bars!?
@@PiggyPower Well cracked was wrong word to use what I meant was bolts got rounded :P
Ahhh. So it was user error 🙈
Get some grips on them and replace with new 👌
WD40 eats rubber!
Indeed it is known to attack natural rubber... But natural rubber hasn't been used in piston seals or boots for some time now. More synthetic stuff like viton 👍
ng
HOW NOT TO: Front brakers...OMG...You put rusty brakes to new brake pads. Genius. You should do regeneration for this rubbish brakes.
Sorry, I don't understand?? I have no idea what you're being critical about .. I didn't fit any rusty brakes?!