@@feelinghealingfrequences7179 if you extend a cam with an extendable sling by just clipping a draw and leaving the carabiner clipped into both slings it causes the carabiner to get sucked up into the finger loop, my theory is this creates a larger bend radius and be stronger, but who knows.
I would like to see a long form of this test. And "how to replace the can slings yourself", girth hitch, basket hitch etc. I've replaced mine with a basket hitch. Kept the slings tidy with a tube webbing and sewn the basket together to prevent clipping to only one half. I have pictures of the process if you want. The reason is, we do not have a webbing replacement shop in Canada that I am aware of.
I found that the basket hitch is recommended by various alpine clubs and a gear manufacturer for this purpose. I would be interested in it's performance on a typical cam-thumb-loop.
I would like an old school chockstone break. Back in the day, I carried 2 stones in my chalk bag as a “just in case”. Used them once, never fell on them.
On an article that I read it says that the knot you used make the strap much weaker (1/3 of initial strength) but you can use a double pass which will double the strength.
Stainless wire rope definitely can go bad depending on environmental conditions. One very significant downside of stainless steel relative to ferrous steel is that stainless is subject to crevice corrosion which occurs inside the material where you can't see it happening, as opposed to rusting from the outside in like steel does. Sometimes a stainless wire rope will look just fine but only have a fraction of it's original strength. This happens much more quickly in marine environments (salt water) but it can and will eventually be a factor pretty much everywhere.
can you please test it with a spliced double loop replicating the factory setup .(in extended configuration) of 6mm amstel ( hmpe that you use on your soft shackles)
doubling can make it worse , the double sling obstructs in some cases the equal dividing of the force over the amount of slingparts , so you end up with less than one straight sling strenght
Yea please. I was mainly thinking a doubled up sling basket hitched, first off, but maybe also doubled and then girth hitched, since that would secure the sling to the cam. I have a variety of brands and no way to get them all re-slung so an alternative would be great! I believe clipping a quickdraw straight into the thumb on BD cams weakens the cable (sharper bend radius etc.).
In rigging terms (overhead lifting) i’m not sure its bad to double up slings. Seems like they should translate pretty well. Vertical should be 100% basket should be 200% and choker should be 80%
Would a clove with the end loop fed through the working end not technically be better since a clove is stronger than a girth hitch? So clove, end loop, working loop through the end loop to basically make a girth hitch.
dmm have shared a post on their Instagram page where they did the same thing but hitched the sling onto the wire of a nut. They seem pretty confident that it would be fine so I’d have no problem doing it on a cam like this
What you call a girth hitch, in UK we call them postman's knot & I was always told they weaken the sling; is this true i.e. should we always avoid making a knot in the sling at all?
Hi very interesting! I would really love to see what happens with dmm dragon cam or wildcountry Old version cam sling replacements with different types of 6 mm rope
What amount of force is deadly when applied to the waist with standard equipment? " its result is X wich means that you'll die in your harness before you'll die on the ground." Would be a very useful conclusion when testing gear.
I love all these cams, slings, draws, and climbing equipment strength tests. Now after we get all our gear super good enough let’s go climb sandstone towers.
@@jarodlojeck5150 I understand the purpose. Wild country cams are slung like this .I am curious about how it may effect breaking strength of the dyneema slings on alpine/ extendable draws. Friction? Bend radius? etc
Not a climber, but just an engineer passing through. But whats up with rating not being reached in the most advantageous setting possible?! Would make me half every rating before setting up
Max rating is probably only for the first fall it absorbs, with every test degrading it somewhat. He mentioned it was an old cam as well, so who knows how many other falls it already took.
I have cut off the 25+ year old webbing on my Wild Country friends and replaced them with thin dyneema slings. And don't worry, I haven't been using them for a long time...😅
If there's something that has been working for climbers for multiple years and you simply insist on climbing, then I would say use whatever they were using and if the thing this man has in his hand doesn't give you confidence that can be backed up with rationality and logic, then just don't use it.
@@PantsR4squares. You'd have to route the clove hitch using the working end, tie in ahalf hitch, hot knife cut to length and bartac together using apolstery thread. Clove hitch evenly distributed weight to both running and work ends, girth hitch is unevenly distributed making one side break. This is how parachute lines are sewn to ensure they don't break.
I really want to see what happens with the extendable if you leave a carabiner in.
@@feelinghealingfrequences7179 if you extend a cam with an extendable sling by just clipping a draw and leaving the carabiner clipped into both slings it causes the carabiner to get sucked up into the finger loop, my theory is this creates a larger bend radius and be stronger, but who knows.
Hell yeah we want a long form video on it lol
Take a look black diamond qc lab, it is all there
Please show the results of the destructive test
I didn't see the end result either
I would like to see a long form of this test.
And "how to replace the can slings yourself", girth hitch, basket hitch etc.
I've replaced mine with a basket hitch. Kept the slings tidy with a tube webbing and sewn the basket together to prevent clipping to only one half. I have pictures of the process if you want.
The reason is, we do not have a webbing replacement shop in Canada that I am aware of.
yes! the alternative way for changing the sling would be nice please 🥰
I found that the basket hitch is recommended by various alpine clubs and a gear manufacturer for this purpose. I would be interested in it's performance on a typical cam-thumb-loop.
Would break higher in theory, but 9kn? You're a bag of jello at 6, so super good enough..
I would like an old school chockstone break. Back in the day, I carried 2 stones in my chalk bag as a “just in case”. Used them once, never fell on them.
On an article that I read it says that the knot you used make the strap much weaker (1/3 of initial strength) but you can use a double pass which will double the strength.
I don't climg. I'm a little chubby but my boy. You actually have something usefully. I feel like your saving lives. Thanks man.
I haven't climbed anything since I was a kid but I adore your videos. Keep up the good work 💪
Stainless wire rope definitely can go bad depending on environmental conditions. One very significant downside of stainless steel relative to ferrous steel is that stainless is subject to crevice corrosion which occurs inside the material where you can't see it happening, as opposed to rusting from the outside in like steel does. Sometimes a stainless wire rope will look just fine but only have a fraction of it's original strength. This happens much more quickly in marine environments (salt water) but it can and will eventually be a factor pretty much everywhere.
This content is great im about to binge watch this man
please test the extended sling!! i just bought wild country friends and i want to know if the extendable sling is a valuable feature or not lol.
can you please test it with a spliced double loop replicating the factory setup .(in extended configuration) of 6mm amstel ( hmpe that you use on your soft shackles)
doubling can make it worse , the double sling obstructs in some cases the equal dividing of the force over the amount of slingparts , so you end up with less than one straight sling strenght
but how much weight did the cam take before it broke?
Seriously!!! Most important question!!
They took 9.15 and 9.36 Kilonewtons respectively
@@wnwrandomm5500he did it a third time they wanna know the third
If my math adds up it’s around 2,000 pounds
@@JustaViewer2300but how many newton is that?
Yess, and do more twist make a bigger or lesser impact on kn?
Yeah, maybe put a prussik instead
I want long form over shorts every time. All the rabit holes, all the "oh wow. It broke" and all the crazy qraphs lol
Please do make the long video about the cam slings ❤❤❤
Yea please. I was mainly thinking a doubled up sling basket hitched, first off, but maybe also doubled and then girth hitched, since that would secure the sling to the cam. I have a variety of brands and no way to get them all re-slung so an alternative would be great! I believe clipping a quickdraw straight into the thumb on BD cams weakens the cable (sharper bend radius etc.).
Why not simply clip a carabiner on the cam's loop? Without using a sling.
Nylon Webbing with a water knot might be superior a little cumbersome perhaps but should be able to get 12kn
Would love to see all of that!!
In rigging terms (overhead lifting) i’m not sure its bad to double up slings. Seems like they should translate pretty well. Vertical should be 100% basket should be 200% and choker should be 80%
That cam disintegration was amazing to watch!!!
What about a piece of cordalette looped with two barrel knots as the replacement sling?
Hey, I am still using one of those cam's. How long (in years) is dynema good for?
Would a clove with the end loop fed through the working end not technically be better since a clove is stronger than a girth hitch?
So clove, end loop, working loop through the end loop to basically make a girth hitch.
Dang I was wondering about girth hitching an independent sling
dmm have shared a post on their Instagram page where they did the same thing but hitched the sling onto the wire of a nut. They seem pretty confident that it would be fine so I’d have no problem doing it on a cam like this
Why didn't you show the force of the final one?
What you call a girth hitch, in UK we call them postman's knot & I was always told they weaken the sling; is this true i.e. should we always avoid making a knot in the sling at all?
Hi very interesting! I would really love to see what happens with dmm dragon cam or wildcountry Old version cam sling replacements with different types of 6 mm rope
Wait but at what strength did it finally break on?
He hasn't said
Yes, that's why I'm asking
What amount of force is deadly when applied to the waist with standard equipment? " its result is X wich means that you'll die in your harness before you'll die on the ground." Would be a very useful conclusion when testing gear.
It doesn’t matter that much in climbing, since rope is stretchy
Can you test Amazon soft shackles?
Can I just clip an alpine draw directly to the thumb loop? I always clip to the sling but not sure why
What was the force rating when the Cam finally failed?
Can you please add standard conversions for simplicity for myself and fellow Americans lol
I bought some friends a few days ago and I thought about it 😮😮 pls, make a full video
Super good enough
Do I need to resling my old cams if they look ok? Is old nylon stronger than old spectra/ dynema?
I feel like these videos have definitely saved some broken bones
How do you have so much money? Please give a full tutorial lol
How do you loosen the knot if it doesn’t brake?
Yeah more cam breaks with different set ups please,
That reminds me that I probably need to replace all the slings in my cams...
What do I do if I need to replace my slings then?
I love all these cams, slings, draws, and climbing equipment strength tests. Now after we get all our gear super good enough let’s go climb sandstone towers.
Yes, please explore the slings on the cams😬
When using alpine draws with dyneema slings I've had that " weird x" and am curious what it does.
It allows you to use the sling at 1/2 length or full length without the possibility of it coming off the loop.
@@jarodlojeck5150 I understand the purpose. Wild country cams are slung like this .I am curious about how it may effect breaking strength of the dyneema slings on alpine/ extendable draws. Friction? Bend radius? etc
Why girth hitch a sling when you can replace it with a soft shackle?
Not a climber, but just an engineer passing through.
But whats up with rating not being reached in the most advantageous setting possible?!
Would make me half every rating before setting up
Max rating is probably only for the first fall it absorbs, with every test degrading it somewhat. He mentioned it was an old cam as well, so who knows how many other falls it already took.
Put it in solid rock, it seems your bench starts moving
So did it break at the rating? You didn't answer that.
Well there goes my emergency shoelaces
No climbing experience just some rigging experience, choking a sling like that will reduce its capacity by 20%
I have cut off the 25+ year old webbing on my Wild Country friends and replaced them with thin dyneema slings.
And don't worry, I haven't been using them for a long time...😅
Wonder if mullet tape would work
If there's something that has been working for climbers for multiple years and you simply insist on climbing, then I would say use whatever they were using and if the thing this man has in his hand doesn't give you confidence that can be backed up with rationality and logic, then just don't use it.
Yes please! 👏🏻 😀
Anytime you choke using a sling you are cutting its capacity. Look at a rigging chart for nylon slings.
Try these tests with wire cables or chains instead of fabric or rope. We want to see the performance of the cam, not the rope.
What about cord?
So, just for clarity, most falls arent much over 3kN, you want 5-7 for a margin of safety? Is that even close to accurate?
Why did he not include the force to break the cam at the end? wtf.
Idk what i saw but it looked interesting
I use those same petzl runners and mine broke at 11500 on the dyno 😮 and only rated for 22.5kn
You're kinda like leaving us hanging here with the last test (phun intended)
You guys are damn crazy. Saw a clip of a guy way up somewhere and took a 30ft whip, i think watching the video scared me more than it did him lol
30 ft is big but bigger falls often make less force.
Dude you showed the two forces that broke the strings but never the actual clamp. Comeeee onnn!!!! Did it reach the 12 kn!?!??!?
did the cam reach 12kn?!?
Good stuff
Basket is much stronger than a choke. Should go basket to shackle…
Do knot vs knot trust me
rope including climbing rope and slings lose more than half of their strength when bent sharply in knots or around a Ring or Carabiner
Yes please.
Unless you're busy.
Wouldn't want to put you out.
Uniform load method
Your slings will last longer if you don't choke them
Point of the video unclear, just saw stuff break
This hurts me bro 1 cam is like 80 dollars lmao it’s costs like at least 600 to get a good rack
Kilo Newton is written (the SI unit of kN) kN, not KN, never.
So yes? I'm uncertain.
"its really fun unmaking gear"
your spine says bye at 9kN
Girth hitch don't evenly distribute. Gotta be a clove hitch bud.
How would you clove hitch on a cams thumb loop?
@@PantsR4squares. You'd have to route the clove hitch using the working end, tie in ahalf hitch, hot knife cut to length and bartac together using apolstery thread. Clove hitch evenly distributed weight to both running and work ends, girth hitch is unevenly distributed making one side break. This is how parachute lines are sewn to ensure they don't break.
What is kn
Where do graph REEEEEEEEEEEE
Why not make this stuff twice as strong as it is. Isn’t your life worth a few extra bucks?
Just basket it.
Kn?
Yeah so super good enough right