You've got a winner there with Jonathan. He's patient, strong and smart. He's learning skills from you beyond mechanics including how to be a great teacher, businessman and leader.
Scott, you and Jonathan are doing an excellent job with this rebuild. Love that you're mentoring Jonathan with the nuances of engine reassembly, etc. Also love your improvised remedies such as the lopped off head bolts that you use to ensure proper alignment of the cylinder heads as you're carefully lowering them into place. Too many careless mechanics botch up jobs like this by dislodging a head gasket, shims and/or o-rings. I'm convinced that this is a chief cause of coolant-in-oil seepage on prior rebuilds. Kudos to you for doing such a great job in tutoring and mentoring Jonathan. He's a patient young man.
Solid, by-the-book, quality work! One shop tool you may wish to consider is a bead blast cabinet. Such a time saver for castings, housings and perfect results. We have owned a Zero Blast for many years and are addicted to it!
Man I'm one of your oldest viewers I've been watching your show now Scott probably 12 years or more I would say thank you very much for all the groovy stuff I'm smart enough on buses now I can build one in my sleep LOL not keep up the great work guys
Great video and I learned something, I never would have thought of lock washers allowing water to travel into bolts/fasteners. That is good to know. I love seeing anti seize and I wish more people and factories used it.
You,re pretty damn skilled with these detroits, love the videos man, great job, as always. Thanx Scott and jon, and everyone else who makes it possible ✌️❤️😁.
Have you thought of getting one of those laser parts cleaners? They are amazing and quick for burning paint, rust or whatever off of steel, aluminum or cast iron parts. If you haven’t seen one do a search on RUclips. I’d love to have one but it’s to much for the amount of dIY stuff I fix, you guys on the other hand woukd really benefit from getting one and they aren’t that expensive. As usual great video, love you guys!
Need to change the heater stop valve on the water pump to a ball valve and swap over the hose fitting. 29:49 looks like half inch or three quarters NPT. 31:29
Good work on a big project. I am a bit concerned with the lack of "meat" on the outside of the bolt hole in the intake elbow when the hole was redrilled. I can see that cracking in short order.
I install studs where possible to eliminate seized bolts. Installing Time-sert thread repair inserts in aluminum housings also helps eliminate seized fasteners.
Saw an interesting video from Gale Banks on using studs on a Diesel engine. He says do not use them because bolts have a tiny bit of give that let's them take the strain. When studs are used they do not have that give so the threads in the block do leading to them pulling out. So studs do have a place to use and places to not use them.
Scott, I was wondering why you don’t use the Quinn Digital Torque adapters that you got from HF, to tighten the fasteners with? Did they break or do you not trust them over the click type?
Can you tell me about your injector cup set? Is that an old Kent Moore? The components looks similar to the Kent Moore kit I use but I don’t see the small reamer cutter bits? Would love to see you installing the injector tubes and adjusting the cam roller guides please.
My friend uses a great deal of heat until the metal glows nearly white, then throws a load of cold fresh water on the heat, then removes the broken bit with his fingers ??? Try and let me know how you get on, maybe on a wasted bit of scrap
Would you mind expanding on your issues with the oil feed line. I have a 6V92 and this line (DD #8923538) seems to be in stock at the usual places for around US$60 plus shipping. Is the 8V a different part number or was there something else involved. Thanks.
We had the ends we were just trying to order the aeroquip hose for it. The wrong diameter showed up 2x The supplier then checked their inventory and said they didn’t have the correct hose.
scott, are the detroits as suceptible to cavitation as other diesels with wet liners? every time i see you open up one of these with either improper coolant, or no coolant at all, that the first thing i think of is how bad are the outside of the liners. great video!
Not really. General maintenance and chassis stuff only. Not to familiar with them and the Cummins we don’t get into very deep beyond oil changes. Not our specialty
It does in this application (where a long shank bolt goes through a close fitting bolt hole). I have seen many times where the long unthreaded shank of the bolt became seized in the bolt bore because anti-seize compound (or grease) was not used.
OOohhhh...you mention that inner seal on the water pump keeps oil out?! Can that be changed with the pump on the engine? I have had a bit of oil getting in my coolant. Previously changed out the outer water pump seal as coolant was leaking out the weep hole, wonder if that inner seal is where I'm getting oil in the water?
Teach these young men properly and they will never be out of a job.
agreed
You've got a winner there with Jonathan. He's patient, strong and smart. He's learning skills from you beyond mechanics including how to be a great teacher, businessman and leader.
Scott, you and Jonathan are doing an excellent job with this rebuild. Love that you're mentoring Jonathan with the nuances of engine reassembly, etc. Also love your improvised remedies such as the lopped off head bolts that you use to ensure proper alignment of the cylinder heads as you're carefully lowering them into place. Too many careless mechanics botch up jobs like this by dislodging a head gasket, shims and/or o-rings. I'm convinced that this is a chief cause of coolant-in-oil seepage on prior rebuilds. Kudos to you for doing such a great job in tutoring and mentoring Jonathan. He's a patient young man.
Solid, by-the-book, quality work!
One shop tool you may wish to consider is a bead blast cabinet. Such a time saver for castings, housings and perfect results.
We have owned a Zero Blast for many years and are addicted to it!
Scott, you are a true craftsman! That engine now looks new and I'm betting it runs like new! Congrats!
Man I'm one of your oldest viewers I've been watching your show now Scott probably 12 years or more I would say thank you very much for all the groovy stuff I'm smart enough on buses now I can build one in my sleep LOL not keep up the great work guys
Great video and I learned something, I never would have thought of lock washers allowing water to travel into bolts/fasteners. That is good to know. I love seeing anti seize and I wish more people and factories used it.
Great job, and beautiful engine gentlemen. I look forward to hearing it running.
ive been a patreon memeber since 2021..if my 8V92 EVER needs a rebuild im coming to you scott!!!!
absolutely amazingggggg
The overall improvement in driveability must be amazing after all of this!
Kudos
Yes, and the proces using the engine hoist and those guide pins was very nice and controlled. No scratches, no dings.👍
Love watching and listening to your narrative, Scott. Thanks!
That rebuild is a thing of beauty
You,re pretty damn skilled with these detroits, love the videos man, great job, as always.
Thanx Scott and jon, and everyone else who makes it possible
✌️❤️😁.
Thank you Scott for being an honest person.
I rebuild those heads all day long. Occasionally a 53. Today I started my first 71., Out shop specializes in Detroit Diesels.
An induction heater might prove useful on those ferrous bolts through alloy housings.
We have one the oxy acetylene is better
The 'ol Silver 92 !
Love your work Scott..
Great work!
Very impressive.
Always great content
Have you thought of getting one of those laser parts cleaners? They are amazing and quick for burning paint, rust or whatever off of steel, aluminum or cast iron parts. If you haven’t seen one do a search on RUclips. I’d love to have one but it’s to much for the amount of dIY stuff I fix, you guys on the other hand woukd really benefit from getting one and they aren’t that expensive. As usual great video, love you guys!
They are not cheap. I don’t make the kind of RUclips money people think i make ;)
Nice job
Excellent video!
Waiting to hear it start 👍
Nice work 👍
Need to change the heater stop valve on the water pump to a ball valve and swap over the hose fitting. 29:49 looks like half inch or three quarters NPT. 31:29
Good work on a big project. I am a bit concerned with the lack of "meat" on the outside of the bolt hole in the intake elbow when the hole was redrilled. I can see that cracking in short order.
Nice
Nice work
This bus was Hungry 😋 definitely ate up the clock 😅☮️
I install studs where possible to eliminate seized bolts. Installing Time-sert thread repair inserts in aluminum housings also helps eliminate seized fasteners.
It wouldn’t help there the thermostat housing seize on the shanks. The anti seize and flat washers will do the trick
Saw an interesting video from Gale Banks on using studs on a Diesel engine. He says do not use them because bolts have a tiny bit of give that let's them take the strain. When studs are used they do not have that give so the threads in the block do leading to them pulling out. So studs do have a place to use and places to not use them.
Very good video!!!
Life is good
keep the clips coming
Scott, I was wondering why you don’t use the Quinn Digital Torque adapters that you got from HF, to tighten the fasteners with? Did they break or do you not trust them over the click type?
The icon click is easier and better for the task but if you don’t have the expensive one the digital one will do great
8V92TASMRRRR 😄
Starting to look like it is supposed to,,,good,,,,,
if you was in the UK i would ask you guys to fix my 8V92TA its very sad
👍👍👍
Am I correct assuming the tang s on the main rod end bearing go toward the center of the motor?
Can you tell me about your injector cup set? Is that an old Kent Moore? The components looks similar to the Kent Moore kit I use but I don’t see the small reamer cutter bits? Would love to see you installing the injector tubes and adjusting the cam roller guides please.
My friend uses a great deal of heat until the metal glows nearly white, then throws a load of cold fresh water on the heat, then removes the broken bit with his fingers ??? Try and let me know how you get on, maybe on a wasted bit of scrap
I don't want nothing leaking in my head.lol
I got stuff leaking out of my head today. 🤒
Would you mind expanding on your issues with the oil feed line. I have a 6V92 and this line (DD #8923538) seems to be in stock at the usual places for around US$60 plus shipping. Is the 8V a different part number or was there something else involved. Thanks.
We had the ends we were just trying to order the aeroquip hose for it. The wrong diameter showed up 2x The supplier then checked their inventory and said they didn’t have the correct hose.
scott, are the detroits as suceptible to cavitation as other diesels with wet liners? every time i see you open up one of these with either improper coolant, or no coolant at all, that the first thing i think of is how bad are the outside of the liners. great video!
Yes
Hey Scott, what do you do with all that scrap metal you acquire?
11:39 when you say the rubber seals..the color faces away from the cylinders do you mean radially outward from the sleves?
Yes. If you picked up the head a tiny bit and peeked in you would see the color side
Do you all work on bluebird skoolies? (Cummins)
Not really. General maintenance and chassis stuff only. Not to familiar with them and the Cummins we don’t get into very deep beyond oil changes. Not our specialty
@@BusGreaseMonkey understood, thank you!
Why SO MUCH never seize? The extra does not do anything.... or does it?
3:00 ruclips.net/video/c-rtAR2M6ew/видео.htmlsi=vaBeaOhM-jNTI6Sh
It does in this application (where a long shank bolt goes through a close fitting bolt hole). I have seen many times where the long unthreaded shank of the bolt became seized in the bolt bore because anti-seize compound (or grease) was not used.
Turn the oxygen off first...lol
Too much new shiny bits, i hope you saved all the gunk to throw back over the motor.
Above the exhaust port there is a plate held on by two bolts. What’s that for?
Different styles of cooling manifolds mount on those. There is coolant under them.
ruclips.net/video/IYq_EOiyI5Y/видео.htmlsi=FaE85HhWCrvi6vww
@@BusGreaseMonkey that answers my question. Thank you very much!
I'm looking for diesel ⛽️ in Detroit..
Do you ever recondition the rods?
We replace them if needed. This engine only has under 100k miles. Like new parts
What is the peanut butter
International compound #2
OOohhhh...you mention that inner seal on the water pump keeps oil out?! Can that be changed with the pump on the engine? I have had a bit of oil getting in my coolant. Previously changed out the outer water pump seal as coolant was leaking out the weep hole, wonder if that inner seal is where I'm getting oil in the water?
yeahhhhh...thinkin I need to pulll off my water pump...6v71...
Oil cooler - Water pump would leak oil out the weep hole