Outboard reed valves
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- In this video I take the reed valves out of the Yamaha 20HP 2-stroke to see if they are damaged and causing a lean condition.
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This was absolutely the best description of how a 2 stroke outboard works that i have ever seen. AWESOME!!!!
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@@@atr 1
These videos make me a better mechanic. I really appreciate the extra detail you go into. The theory of how these engines work makes diagnostics so much easier. Thanks again for what you do.
You're welcome Michael, glad the vids are helping you.
My 175hp 2 stroke Johnson has been giving me a hard start and spitting fuel through the carb......its been a pain trying to fix it but watching and listening to your video gave me hope, you've pin point my problem spot on.
Thanks for another great tutorial.
This guy has saved me sooooooooooooooo much money. If I've got trouble with my 20 hp Yamaha
I just go through the vids on this channel, I would be broke otherwise. cheers man, love the channel!
Great to hear!
After working on motorcycle and boat carbs for the last ten years or so I advocate to all my friends and family how important it is to keep your fuel and carbs clean. People have no idea how small the holes are in the jets and galleries and it doesn't take much at all to clog them. Great video as always.
For sure. The fuel we buy from water-front marinas certainly doesn't help either.
Man I’ve been watching your videos for years , shoot you’ve even talked me through on a little RUclips comment and helped me get my Yamaha 90 running! Man let me work as an apprentice with you lol
I dangar a few days a go a asked you about my yamaha 60HP 2 stroke problem, it was losing power, I changed spark parts(I dont know the name of the part in english) and it solved the problem! keep the good work mate!
Nice work, glad it turned out to be something simple. :)
Dangar Marine yah, me too!
great super shortcut video to learn reed valves!!! all 2 stroke engine owners should watch and learn !(moto cross , outboard etc )
Thanks mate!
Thanks Stu,
That old Yammy I got was running way worse than that one you have there, when I got it.
Turned out to be a broken primary wire on No.1 coil pack. I am holding my breath in anticipation. Love your work mate, keep it up. Greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
Hey Bruce. I'm thinking I'll test the ignition first, mostly as I think it will be easier and doesn't involve taking the powerhead off. Fingers crossed that is all there is to it.
Looking forward to that Stu, as they say, do the easy stuff first as 90% of the time that is where the problem is. But this one has got me scratching my head too. Roll on next weekend!
By the way it was your videos on checking the IGN circuits that led me find the problem on mine.
that is , without a doubt, the most perfect description of reed valves I've ever heard and saw demonstrated . Love your videos
I've had a pretty bad day today. But it sure is nice to sit and watch and listen to you describe stuff I like to learn. Its relaxing. Thank you for making these videos sir.
Thanks mate, sorry to hear you had a bad day but glad to hear the vids are helping. :)
Im actually happy that wasn't the fix. It means more vids to watch and learn. You are the only sub I have that I am actually waiting for my phones notification for your new vid. I usually get them early in the morning(4-6 am) and watch them as my day is just getting started. Thanks Stu!!
Thanks mate, glad to hear you've been enjoying the vids, particularly that early in the morning!
Loved this video, as it mirrors so many of my experiences of working with outboards. You find one problem, think you've fixed it and then have to start again. Keep up the good work.
Thanks mate. Yes, just because you've found "a problem" doesn't mean you've found "the problem"!
Since unfortunately myself and a lot of other people are out of work right now I had time to work on my outboard and I'm glad I watched your video's because after pulling the reeds which seemed fine i focused on the carburetors and it was the idle mixture screw on my bottom carburetor out of adjustment,mad it backfire so bad it would stall.
I just found a bad reed thanks to this guy. Found a leak during a cylinder leakdown test; verified a bad reed with a flashlight.
stu id like to thank you for your videos the way you describe , explain , demonstrate everything is just so ... confidence inspiring i can't tell you or thank you enough i recently decided after binge watching many of your videos to change my reeds on my 90 evinrude 60 hp and as you've stated many times it was easy and i owe you for helping me do it with confidence again thank you for your time and your videos keep up the terrific videos
Thanks Chris, glad the vids have been helping you. :)
Yes I got two almost new reed blocks for my 96 force 120. I can’t see any day light through them, also replaced the gasket ,it made a world of difference, snappy throttle response easy starting, The service manager said there is 8000s of a gap that tolerated on the force 120 but I beg to differ, like you said there should be no daylight looking through the read blocks, thanks for the great advice and videos keep them coming
Thanks Tim, great to hear your outboard is running sweetly now. :)
You just need a new engine anything pre 2000 is a right off.
wow. great way to explain how 2 strokes work. I never fully understand until this moment
Glad the video helped. :)
My 97 yammie 40 ran great until recently. Last few trips out I've had a large loss in hp and speed has gone from 30mph to 20 mph. New plugs, new fuel pump. Clean fuel, new filter and water separator, compression just over 100 each cylinder. I'm hoping it's just the reed valves. Great video as always. Keep em coming. Mike from Florida.
Was it reeds
@@hiimtoxic9518 Nope. Took it out today after completing a full rebuild in all 3 carbs and it ran like a brand new motor. Everything was clogged. The jets, the needle seat in one carb was so bad you couldn't see light through. All the small ports were clogged. It was bad.
you make the best videos ...in glad that I found your channel ....been following for a few weeks now .....I'm in the middle of re ringing a 1987 120hp evinrude ...and your videos are so detailed....love that you make it so easy to understand ....thanks
Hey mate, glad you have joined us and are enjoying the vids. Good luck with your Evinrude rebuild. :)
No one chipped you about the timing light, because we all thought you knew what you were talking about. We are in your hands. Good work. 100% not better must mean its almost fixed.
I don't always explain it the best though! ;)
Excellent explanation on reed valves Stu. Thanks so much. The more I look at my engine the more jobs I discover I may have to do! The joys....
Thanks John, good luck with your motor!
Sorry it didn't work out but if it's any consolation I've been boating for about 40 years now and never really understood how reed valves worked...until now...so thanks Stu!
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the vid. :)
You are so good at making videos, it's honestly refreshing. Thank you again for another excellent explanation.
Thanks Sean, glad you enjoyed it.
Great video Stu..look forward to the diagnosis next week. On another note... thanks for your advice on the underfloor tank situation..my mate is binning it as we can still smell fuel ....He decided to build a rear lounge and purchase two 25 litre plastics to go underneath...I was supportive of this !
Thanks mate. Sounds like he is taking a good route with his fuel tanks, I don't think he'll regret the change.
Thanks Stu, I'm familiar with reed valves in bikes but not outboards. Nice to see there isn't much difference at all.
Hey Ron, yeah, it's pretty much the same for all two stroke motors. It is nice to know that once you figure one out you are good to go for all the others.
Ace video as usual Stew. I have a small repair shop and really value the info you share. Picked up some great pointers from you mate. Thanks a million for the time and effort you put into this. If you ever make a video compilation I will gladly purchase from you. Well worth whatever you charge.
Thanks mate, glad the videos have been helping you. Good luck with your shop, I know exactly how hard it can be to keep a small shop open and profitable.
You're an excellent mechanic. Thank you for doing these videos
Great video. The drawing on the board really helped.
Still trying to figure out the problem with my 75 hp Mercury on the invader. Gone through the entire fuel system, checked timing, like you said still 100% not fixed. Someone suggested looking at the reed valves, thanks for the great lesson professor Stu.
You're welcome Don, good luck!
hi never worked on an outboard but have used several of your very well described techniques for cleaning, adjusting electrics and carburation on motor bikes. one adjustment i would check was the carb float travel as the fuel level in the carb affects the amount of fuel being sucked into the engine. but i guess your low idle mixture screw would compensate for any variation in fuel Hight ( in the carby). great video's very well explained
Thanks mate, glad the vids have been helpful. Yes, having a correct float level is very important to get the correct mixture.
Hi Stu, easy fix on hot water heater. just needed the winterizing valve turned to let the air trapped in the top of the tank out. got hot water now for the rest of the trip.
Good news! :)
Was totally expecting it to run like a charm! I can't take the suspense any longer! Hurry up next week :)
Me too!!!
meee 3
Hi there, and greatings from Norway.
I have a frind tat hade the same problem with his 25Hp Yamaha, semes to be almost the same engine, it was coughing and it was spewing a cloud of petrol out of the bottom carb every time it
misfiere `d.
He checked everything, changed piston rings, all the seals, cleaned carburetors, he finaly took of the flywheel and found a chafed wire, repaird that then everything was fine.
Yes, it can take quite a while to find the problem some times but it's always satisfying when you do!
Excellent video and description. I'm chasing down a problem on my old Suzuki DT200 and removed the oil injection system and moved to pre-mix. It got me to wondering how exactly the crankcase and internals get lubricated. Your drawing helped me understand that. Cheers!
Great video on 2 stroke operation! Great sense of humor as said below "Almost 100% not better" I've just come into a Evinrude V4 120. I've watched most of the Evinrude 150 videos you did which will help with this motor.
Awesome videos, i no longer have a boat but you are very informative and do a great job explaining! Thank you for your time creating the videos!
You're welcome mate, glad you've been enjoying them. :)
Absolutely brilliant.. Super helpful and easy to understand
Glad it was helpful!
Never had to replace reeds on a two stroke. Yet. Lol. I look forward to the next video. I'm sure your going to figure it out Stu!
I've never had to replace a set yet either which is why I don't often suspect them. I'm not sure what it would take for them to fail, even in these old saltwater motors they always seem fine.
Mate @ 9:02 i thought u were gonna keep rolling straight down into the lake for a water test! spot on vids!
whoa! dude! mind blown with your chalkboard demonstration. Thanks heaps!
Thanks mate, glad you liked it. :)
very good explanations. Can reed valve plates be replaced without exchanging the entire assembly? If so do you have a video on doing that service? Enjoyed it. Thanks
Make sure that the air mixture screws are turned out a little over 2 turns. Seems like the common Yamaha lean sneeze.
Hey Eric, I did have a play with the mixture screws and they seem to be set fine, but I'm going to go through a whole range of mixture / choking / sparing fuel to test which is lean in the next vid.
A term you will hear around 2 strokes is transfer ports. You drew that on the board. Max power is somewhat determined by the design and number of the transfer ports leading to the cylinder. The crankcase is pressurized until the ports are uncovered by the piston downward movement . Key is that exhaust port is uncovered first then the intake which will scavenge the remains exhaust gases out. Some 2 strokes don't have reed valves and some others in motorcycles have a rotary valve. Cool stuff.
Ah, interesting about some bikes having rotary valves, I'll have to look into those. From what I hear the shape of the exhaust after the port is critical with 2-strokes too to get the gasses extracted efficiently.
Keep in mind that the transfers are effectively the intake valves for the cylinder when compared to a 4 stroke.. Where the 2 stroke intake is the intake to the crank case not the cylinder.
Transfers mostly influences mid range power up to peak, once a 2 stroke is at peak it tends to over scavenge so much intake spills from the exhaust port, hence an exhaust provides back pressure to plug escaping intake charge at peak.
One important moment is blow down time which is the period the exhaust is open for and transfers not yet open when initial cylinder pressure blows down out the exhaust.
A piston port intake timing has symmetrical so opening and closing is equal degree from TDC like exhaust and transfers, all controlled by piston.
The disc valve is asymmetric so intake opens a lot earlier that allows the crankcase to equalise pressure through the carby instead of back flowing down the open transfers as the piston is rising.
The reed valve timing is like a disc valve timing at low revs opening very early and then like a piston port at high revs, so the opening point in degrees gets later as engine speed increases, so rotary disc has an advantage in smaller engines due to less gas inertia where reed is as good as disc over about 150 cc per cylinder..
My 70 hp 1984 2 stroke Johnson 3 cylinder is only firing on 2 cylinders. Gas is spraying out the front of the carburetor and the spark plug for that cylinder is clean. I replaced the carb but still having the problem. Watched your great video and I think the reed valve may be my problem. Your thoughts.
That is a classic symptom of a reed valve problem.
Great video again, love your drawing of the reet valves, Learning a lot evry week. Keep up the good work. Big fan from the Netherlands!
Thanks Dennis! :)
Aw mate I love the ammo box panniers on the bike. I did the same on my Yamaha. There’s always something interesting on the background 👍
Question. Did you do a video on the replacing the reed valves? Thanks to you video I found two leaking into the air box
I agree that a systematic approach to trouble shooting is the only way of making sure that all the bases have been covered and yet still it can leave you scratching your head, I can relate this to an MD who's patient is displaying a multitude of symptoms which can some times lead to a totally unexpected problem, definitely engine repair requires clear thinking, persistence and a ton of patience, all words I know but can't relate to LOL
There are definitely some jobs that leave you scratching your head, that's for sure. We've got plenty of things to check on this outboard yet though! ;)
Your videos are excellent.
Glad you like them!
WME carbys flooding! Other than reed valve failing what's most likely cause for this issue? Thanks in advance
This video kicks ass. Great video man!!!
Very interesting and informative video. I'm learning a lot from you. Thank you for explaining everything.
You're welcome Martin. :)
Great video, wondering if you found the actual problem of that motor , my Johnson 40 hp 91 is doing the exact same thing changed carbs ,ignition flywheel, still doing it
Hi , did you fixed that squeze noise ?
If reeds are bad with a carburetor have a black stain to the intake. I have a 3 cylinder Yamaha and the bottom carb has a black stain that’s hard to rub off on the intake side. The rest of the carbs are clean and shiny
Is becoming very interesting, I'll be waiting for the next video.
Hopefully it will be at least diagnosed by the next video, even if it means waiting for parts.
Good video, got a evinrude 9.9hp and tons of gas flow backwards of the carburator hopefully these valves arent too expensive.
I remenber those yamaha are all pretty much the same, that issue you have make sure its the spark plugs the engine is supposed to have, engine fuel/oil ratio if it has more oil than its designed for that issue will come up and if the carburator is not adjusted correctly same thing (mostly when too rich air/fuel ratio). Worst scenario water is going into the cylinder making misfires.
Edit: the 9.9hp seems like lost half the reed valve, first time I see those metal reed valves break, tough they was kinda forever lasting compared to carbon reed valves.
What is a reed valve?
It's a lovely character that reads you books.
If you upset the reed valve it reads you tales of woe and unrest.
If you whisper into the reeds soul, rumour has it you should stop reeding the you tube comments section.
But ain't nobody got time for that!
Thanks for the great video,I have a Mercury Force 90hp which I just got running near perfect after cleaning the carbs,new plugs and setting the timing.All of the sudden it now sounds like your Yamaha and is really hard to start,I guess i'll start with the reed valves and go from there.
Thanks for sharing when things don't go completely according to plan. Elsewise it'd just be like a "Haynes Manual".
Thanks Jonathan, you are dead right about there being lots of value in showing the wrong turns along the way.
Fantastic job as usual!
I’m a rookie and recently I’ve gotten into buying cheap outboards and fixing up for sale or keep when I want to. I’m recently working on a Johnson 50hp and she’s starting right up (easier with a little throttle up) but won’t stay running. I notice has spitting out slightly out one carb. I’m going to use this info and hope to find the issue.
@@Mad-Coo Motor has been sold. But, i did fix the issue by flipping the reeds and got rid of the little gap. Replaced missing rubber retainer for the adjustment screw in front of carb right above the intake while because it would rattle lose each time I speed up. Ran great from there on out.
Well well well, carbs were dirty and timing was off too so those 2 things would have had to be addressed anyway at some point right? Seems like the perfect nightmare issue, multiple problems...;)
Great video! Can't wait to see the next one.
Cheers
Don't forget the leaking head gasket too! ;)
yeah that's right i forgot! I remember chasing a similar issue on my previous motor. Replaced fuel pump, reeds, cleaned and re-cleaned the carbs, even replaced one pack, adjusted timing. Was driving me insane... The idle was getting a bit better each time but still not 100%. in the end replacing the shot (open) thermostat is what fixed the problem.
Multiple or erratic issues are the toughest to fix.
My outboard misfires on one cylinder mid throttle but isles and full throttle fine.
Timing issue? Spark plug gap issue? I keep getting a puff of smoke or fuel vapor out of these just behind the carburetors.
Johnson/OMC 200 V6 outboard 2 stroke
Could be spark, but I would definitely investigate the leak behind the carburettors and fix that first. Could be reed valves if it is a two stroke.
I like the way you pronounce "carb yer ay terz"
Thanks!
Stu, great video. My motor was not used the last three years (or more from previous owner), used your videos to get it running this year. Runs great over 1500 rpm's, less than that it has misses and sneezes. Been using Seafoam and that is making it run better the more I run it, plan on cleaning the carbs soon. Is there anything else I should check out?
Thanks Steve. Sounds like a similar situation to this outboard so I would say a carb clean is the main thing to focus on.
Pull the boat out for winter, and clean and rebuilt the carbs. They were pretty clean but had a sticky float on the lower carb (upside down it had at least a 3 second hang time). The rebuild kit had all the replacement parts for this. The engine now starts easier and has no problem idling at 800 rpm's (750-850 spec). Now I will use your cable fix for the control cables and I will be in great shape. Thank you for all your videos.
My Johnson 70 has a hard time starting... and once run and shit down needs like a tree warm cycle. I have changed the fuel pump, primer solenoid and now i am wondering about reeds..i noticed on idle there was some gas bubbles coming from the prop exhaust the other weekend. I have had issues flooding while trying to start a lot of times on cold start.
what a great channel I've learned so much from you and you show it in a really understandable manor thank you for sharing keep up the great stuff!
Thanks Chris, glad the vids have been helping you. :)
Good day stu .. great videos very helpful and exciting to see.. I was wondering what you think about 1994 yamaha outboard 85 hp.. starts and running good. Take it out in the salt water and everything is going well.. takes off good. Going max speed and after say 5 to 10 minutes in . Bogs down . No power. Sounds like crap like it's trying to stay running... I Put it in neutral and give it choke try to high idle. Starts to get better and takes off again okay. Than does same thing bogs down like wants to shut off.. I know carbs clean . New fuel pump and lines. I'm thinking reed valves issue.. note I'm getting mix fuel coming / dripping out carb in air housing..
Hey, this motor has done a crank shaft seal. I had twin cylinder Yamaha that did the same thing and found a blown crank seal. If your lucky it will be the top seal under flywheel. Interestingly mine did the top seal but the spark plug for the top cylinder looked like it was fouled from running rich. I couldn't get my head around it as that cylinder should have been leaning out.
Yes, I'm thinking a pressure test will be the way to go before getting into the ignition. It will be interesting to see. It is odd about your top spark plug being fouled rather than whiter.
I have a 1982 90 HP Johnson, do you have a video on pulling and replacing the Reed valves, love your videos can you please help me???????????
I have a 96 force 120, two carbs,no fuel spitting out, runs pretty well starting good, I pulled reed blocks out and I can see daylight in some of them, can I flip them over to see if they close, or just replace all of them? I love your videos,AWSOME videos
I would replace them because if they break from fatigue cracks they will get sucked into the engine and you don't want that!
Fantastic, I love this series ! I think I know what the problem is, cannot wait to see this thru! good stuff! kodi
Thanks mate, we'll see soon enough. We should have a vote. ;)
Do you have a video on a four-cylinder 2-stroke bottom to carburetor do not have suction
i have seen 2 stroke cycle explained before ,but i finally understood it thanks to your explanation.
my 9.9hp 2 stroke is doing exactly the same thing.im thinking one of the coils/leads is breaking down- any thoughts??
It could be leads but in the end this outboard turned out to have a problem with the carburettors not being synchronised ruclips.net/video/NnotQmnKxKM/видео.html
Thoughts on using fuel additives for cleaning 2 stroke fuel systems?
I would be happy to receive your help on a problem I have with the carburetor as soon as I start the motorcycle I have a leak from the excess pipe I did a test and all the signs indicated a problem with the float or the valve after countless attempts that failed to solve the problem I decided to replace the carburetor and after the replacement the carburetor was on another motorcycle
And it was normal. But my motorcycle again had leaks from the excess pipe, do you have an idea or a solution to the problem
Hey stu. Great video. I have this particular case, i usually go fishing and when I launch and go to wot I go very well, but after a couple of minutes you can hear the engine dropping in rpms and loose about 2 or 3 miles per hour. The engine is a 25 hp tohatsu updated to 30hp by changing the restrictor plate and adjusting the timing
It could be as simple as the throttle cable creeping back. If not I would make sure the fuel pump can supply enough fuel, it may not be able to keep the carbs full.
Carb clean first then look at other stuff.
Great Video, I found that the lowest reed valve on my 3 cylinder 2 stroke was rusted an got a little lime on. This points to other problems aswell, i guess. After looking at the cylinder head, i found a lot of gunk, lime and rust. I will change the whole Cylinder head with gaskets. Do you see any other points where water could come into this area around the reed valve? Thanks.
Try to pull a vacuum from the inlet side. Watch the carbs when it's running? Where is this filmed?
Keep the videos coming
Will do! :)
Super video! Great job.
Can a stuck reed valve cause a cylinder to lock up when cold cranking? Outboard has been sitting for several years. Spins free until it gets to what I believe the exhaust stroke on cylinder 2.
Sounds like there is either a bad head gasket or possibly a bad crank. Will it run better if you choke the carbs out manually by hand?
The head gasket was changed in the previous video and choking doesn't seem to help much, but will confirm during the follow up video.
It sounds like the cylinders are swapping air back and forth. If it's not the head I wouldn't be surprised if its' the crank labyrinth seals that are shot.
What caused a boat to lose tons of fuel out the exhaust side? I have a Suzuki pu40r and it won’t run good at all. I noticed it leaking fuel out the jet when I started it and once I cam back from the river it was all over the ground.
This was top notch info as usual on this channel thanks ✅
Hey Dingus. You can flip the read valves over and it will fix any seeping
Depending on the design you often can and see if it helps. If not they'll need replacing.
@@DangarMarine
Been watching you for a few years
Enjoy yr show.
THANK U WE FOUND BOTH COILS WERE CRACKED
Another well done video!
Thanks mate!
1983 50hp Johnson, starts first time no problems when cold, as soon as it has run for ten minutes I can switch it off and it’s starts straight away. But leave it for ten minutes and it will not start, cranks and cranks then lift the fast idle and it will eventually start. Seems to be flooding but why only after being off for awhile? Compression good both 150.
It could be that fuel leaks from the carburettor or fuel pump somehow causing it to flood, but eventually it runs dry then evaporates letting you start it again.
so I guess the principal is the same on my motor, Its a 1993 150 johnson. It has the 12 little check valves on the carb manifold. At least 7 are damaged, and 4 were stuck open. Is this why low idle speed was rough and slobbery?
What do you think the problem would be with a 50 horsepower blue band mercury very low hours from new it lay in a shed for 20 years it went OK for the last 3 years but now it won't plane the boat carbs are clean the earth at the back of the coils are clean new Leeds and plugs starts ticks over engine sounds fine but just not power the could it be the coils there is a good spark your help would be appreciated
Will the Reed valves cause an engine to have compression issues?
This what I mean
1987 stratos fish and ski bass boat. Has a 115 mercury on it, new carpet, new seats and new cover. Boat guy told me it needs reed valves from losing compression. I don’t know anything about them and do not need it. Will sale or trade, make me and offer.
Reed valves don't affect cyclinder compression, only crankcase pressure that then transfers the fuel up to the ports. Low cylinder compression is a much harder fix.
great helpful video as usual
Thanks Chris!
great video as usual and you got a bunch of views too. too bad that did solve the issue but you can at least cross it of the list. still on our trip on the coast. my 700 dollar rv hot water heater has a issue and only puts out warm water for less than a minute either on gas or electric? the tank gets hot which is puzzling. so taking showers at the sites facilities till we get home and have my buddy who owns a RV repair shop fix it. RUclips no help on this one. haha I too love the humor. yes a more diagnosis search will solve this issue and believe it's an ignition issue.
Hey Tim, bummer about the hot water. Still looking into whats going on with this motor, hope to have it running today!
Hi. If like in some performance reed valve kits which allow the reed petals to open more, will this give u more power/speed top end? Many thanks.... jj
Yes Stu, 1969 Kawasaki's had rotary valve discs as well as Spanish Montesa motocross bikes. An expansion chamber on the exhaust side helps as well.
We have an old Kawasaki in the shop at the moment that needs repairing. Will interesting to get into that job.
DAP go kart engines had rotary valves and there was one with desmodrodic (?) cam driven inlet valves- which defeats the whole idea for a two stroke engine for me. Poppets have been used in the past as well.
William Fowler had an 80s Kawasaki KE100 years ago that never ran right (bought it used) threw a ton of parts at it, still never ran right. Turned out to be rotary valve seals. Changed that out and she ran like a scalded cat! A good motorcycle shop gave me the free advice that pointed me in the right direction.
what would cause compression on 1 cylinder ,but not on the other,,motor runs fine till it gets hot ,then stalls out,,did a compression check and found one hole with no compression,,would this be valve issue,,great vids bro,keep um coming
If it is a four stroke it can be a stuck valve yes, otherwise it would be rings.
no this is a 18 hp johnson,76 model,,kinda figure a full rebuild,,just havent been able to find parts,,you lined me up with a place a few days ago,,seen you vid of the spitting yamaha and had to ask,lol,it belong to a special person in my life told him i would rebuild it,,then he died of white cell cancer ,but im a man of my word
All your stuff is great! thanks!
So bad compression can be linked to poor reed valves.. But how did I find which one is responsible? My 1988 force 50 hp has poor compression like 80 lbs
Bad reed valves won't give you a poor cylinder compression reading but they will stop the fuel and air being compressed in the crankcase. Often you will see fuel spitting out of the corresponding carburettor if they have broken.
hello Chris I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 strokes with the same problem as the engine in the video, did you manage to solve it? if you can tell me what that was it will help me a lot.
Thank you so much
Hi , did you fixed that squeze noise ?
Would I be able to change a 1986 yamaha 9.9hp to a 15hp yamaha by changing the reed valves. Or was that only for newer yamaha outboards