No need to worry about what order or location the coil packs came from if you haven't been throwing any misfire codes. If you have, try swapping coils and run it again to see if the cylinder misfire is at a new location, different cylinder. If it has, the problem is that coil. If the misfire hasn't moved, the problem isn't the coil and is something else. Best and quickest thing to do with a P0300 misfire code (301, 302, 303, or 304). Appreciate the video, I'm about to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2012 Cooper S. Couple of other points: 1) Clean, clean and clean some more BEFORE you even loosen the cover bolts. Then, after removing the cover as you did. 2) The Bentley manual says to use a thin coat of lubricant such as glycerin on the head sealing surface and to only use a small quantity of silicone sealant at the half moon gasket area, nowhere else. I'd let that sealant set and dry before starting it up.
Excellent additions! I’m meticulous about having clean surfaces and not letting any dirt in the engine. My meticulousness is also why I try to reinstall parts from the exact same location they were removed (eg these coils) but you’re correct that it shouldn’t create any problem to move them around.
if you havent got money for the valve cover - can just replace the pcv valve with oem pcv its on the top left circular cutout on the valve cover... and then just buy a seperate gasket as well will save a bit of money
Thank you for this! Would be great to see what the old cover looked like underneath when you removed it? Been a while now so not sure if you took a photo but I'm curious as I need to replace mine because my mechanic said it's blowing out smoke because it's too dirty under there.
Don’t have the old cover or a photo of it, but I don’t recall it looking bad inside. The issue was that the PCV valve within the cover stopped opening and closing, thus causing excessive oil loss.
@@robbsgarage Thank you for your reply! Ahh I see. Mine might have the same issue then. My mechanic just said that the oil wasn't pumping very well through the valve (therefore smoking out the exhaust) so need to replace the cover. I thought it may have been blocked from being old and dirty but perhaps it's the same as your issue. Thank you for this video, will give it a go replacing it myself as I don't want to pay my mechanic to touch my car anymore.. :)
Did you have much blow by when the oil cap was removed prior to the swap? My 2012 base model has a lot of blow by. 235k miles on it though. Not sure if new pcv would help? Thx@robbsgarage
Any issues with leaks? I'm debating wheather or not to use this same gasket maker on any problem areas. Just replaced my gasket and waiting on some new plugs/ignition coils to re-install. Thanks!
can you please tell me the procedure for installing the spark plug tubes? It looks like the right one came out when you removed the valve cover. When you re-installed the valve cover, all four tubes were removed.@ 8:30 they are still not installed but they are @ 8:33. Thank you!
Good catch! Didn’t realize I overlooked showing this step in the video, and since it was so long ago I honestly can’t remember 100% but in rewatching it I think I must have installed the tubes after loosely fitting the valve cover. If I were to do this today, I’d try installing the tubes before the valve cover to make sure they’re properly seated-perhaps I didn’t do this because the valve cover wasn’t going on straight with them installed? Can’t remember, but whatever you do be sure the tubes are properly seated at the base. I don’t recall having to use anything but my hands to ensure fitment, but have heard of some using a socket or pliers to seat them when having to reinstall during sparkling changes (with valve cover on).
Thank you very much Robb! Amazing video. I would appreciate a tightening specification (I understand that the tightening torque is 10Nm). Question - I saw that you used Permatex 82180 Ultra Black RTV. Is it required to apply it or is it possible without Silicone Gasket? Thanks
Thank you. At 9:32 I mention that the torque spec is 7.5 ft lb, which is equivalent to 10nm, so yes you are correct using 10nm. I’m not a certified mechanic, so take my advice knowing that, but I personally have always applied a little silicone to gaskets like this as an added layer of security to seal in the oil. Maybe I’m just old school, but I wouldn’t risk installing without RTV.
Yes, the code indicated that the PCV valve was stuck in the open position. I think it was code P053A but didn’t write it down. I’ll be sure to include code #s in my future videos.
Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker. Not needed everywhere, but helps seal the gasket around that one section I show in the video. Others have reported leaks without using it.
If you have an oil leak around the seal or if you have a check engine light with a code that indicates the PCV valve is stuck open or stuck closed, then time to change. One reviewer commented that you can replace the PCV valve without changing the entire valve cover, but I’m not experienced with this or seen anyone do it yet.
I have the same issue and same mini, same everything. I cannot, for the life of me, put the replacement cover back on. It was easy to take off, but putting the new replacement is hard! It feels like it doesnt fit. But I know its the right cover for my mini. Any tips?
Few things I’d try: 1. Compare the inside curves of the old and new cover to ensure they are indeed the same shape. 2. Double check to make sure the connectors aren’t getting in the way when you try to press the new cover on. 3. Try fitting the rear first on an angle then lay the front down. If none of those work, let me know where the cover is giving you trouble and I’ll retrace my steps to see if I can think of something else.
@@robbsgarage thanks for replying! We just tried all those things and then it started raining and we headed back inside. But right before we stopped working on it, we noticed the engine hoist was not allowing the right side to align with the bolts. Both covers look identical but the new one could be thicker. Is there a way to remove the hoist?
@@RR_12014hmmm… there probably is a way to remove it but have not done it myself. If the cover is bumping up against the hoist and it’s thicker than the original, I wonder if it’s the correct cover for that engine. Keep in mind that Mini made a few different engines for this generation. Keep us posted on what you find out.
I’ve heard mixed reviews about doing that since it’s integrated into the valve cover and once removing the cover you need new gaskets anyway. Please share your experience on replacing just the PCV valve. Would love to hear how it’s worked out!
@robbsgarage Research is the key to any problem with any car. Shop around for replacement parts. Don't settle on the first one you find. If you have to order the part, shipping cost needs to be considered? I once bought a car that someone put the wrong brake pads on the front wheels. Compare old from new part. After market can have an advantage because the new part may see an improved upgrade? Or the down side, the part may be junk? I always do a complete inspection of the new part.
I saw one video, and a guy replaced all kinds of parts on the mini Cooper before he figured out it was a simple $ 20. problem? This is a very expensive situation. Especially with all mini Coopers, you can not do guess work? Sometimes miss reading a scanner can be costly also? Owning a mini Cooper requires patience and knowledge of the vehicle.
I'm so happy you found out how to replace only the PCV that is integrated into the valve cover. It was super insightful of you to give us the link and sources. Keep fighting the good fight, brother
Great video. Thank you. Before you replaced the cover, can you estimate how much oil consumption/loss you had per some number of miles? I'm having to add a quart pretty frequently. I know i have a small leak around the cover, but I'm pretty sure i need new valve seals as well.
Thank you. If I recall correctly, lost about a quart of oil in ~3k miles, so it burned quite a bit more than I would have expected. After the PCV valve/cover change, no more oil consumption.
@@robbsgarage wow.... That's enough for me to do the cover first and see what happens. Being out a gasket and gasket maker is a small price to pay to avoid replacing seals if I don't have to. Hmmm.
@@underourrock keep in mind, I didn’t have any leaks, the valve was just stuck which caused oil consumption. Still shocked at how much. If you don’t have a code that’s reporting a problem with the valve, it could be more than just your leak (unless it’s a bad leak). Agree with you though, gasket is inexpensive so try that and see what happens. Good luck, and comment back on the results!
Since I'm taking the valve cover off, I'm going to replace the timing chain kit, valve seals, Vanos solenoids, and replace the cover + PVC valve with the aluminum cover. Plastic on top of an engine is just asking for problems. Maybe when I tear into it I'll see a definite sign of a leak at the gasket. I'd just like to get this car running well and reliable for the next 100k miles. I don't expect it to be problem free... It won't, but if I can knock out many of the worn components in one go I think that leaves me with a water pump, oil pump and a few little odds and ends that should be pretty easy to spot when they go out. I'll definitely be adding a dash mounted scan gauge to display some temperature and engine/boost data too. Maybe I'll do the Android Headunit someday and put the gauges on there. Sorry this is a bit long, not expecting a reply. I know that comments on videos can help a little bit with the algorithm though. Have a good one!
@@robbsgarage I just changed the oil 2 months ago. They did an engine flush too. That's when the smoking started. As soon as I left them. I heard this could fix it.
@@jaydee1389 it’s possible, but there could be something else mechanical causing the smoking. Before buying the valve cover, try reading the codes (local auto part store can if you don’t have a scanner) to see what the computer is reporting. If you have a code that the PCV valve is stuck open then this could fix it.
Much appreciated. This is something I am going to do to my Countryman and your video is well made to document the process.
Awesome! Glad it helped.
No need to worry about what order or location the coil packs came from if you haven't been throwing any misfire codes. If you have, try swapping coils and run it again to see if the cylinder misfire is at a new location, different cylinder. If it has, the problem is that coil. If the misfire hasn't moved, the problem isn't the coil and is something else. Best and quickest thing to do with a P0300 misfire code (301, 302, 303, or 304).
Appreciate the video, I'm about to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2012 Cooper S. Couple of other points: 1) Clean, clean and clean some more BEFORE you even loosen the cover bolts. Then, after removing the cover as you did. 2) The Bentley manual says to use a thin coat of lubricant such as glycerin on the head sealing surface and to only use a small quantity of silicone sealant at the half moon gasket area, nowhere else. I'd let that sealant set and dry before starting it up.
Excellent additions! I’m meticulous about having clean surfaces and not letting any dirt in the engine. My meticulousness is also why I try to reinstall parts from the exact same location they were removed (eg these coils) but you’re correct that it shouldn’t create any problem to move them around.
What a great video, I am having this exact issue with my 2014 Mini cooper. I am on it tomorrow.
Thank you. Best of luck with the repair. Pretty straight forward, but if you have questions reply back and I’ll see if I can be any help.
if you havent got money for the valve cover - can just replace the pcv valve with oem pcv its on the top left circular cutout on the valve cover... and then just buy a seperate gasket as well will save a bit of money
Thank you for this! Would be great to see what the old cover looked like underneath when you removed it? Been a while now so not sure if you took a photo but I'm curious as I need to replace mine because my mechanic said it's blowing out smoke because it's too dirty under there.
Don’t have the old cover or a photo of it, but I don’t recall it looking bad inside. The issue was that the PCV valve within the cover stopped opening and closing, thus causing excessive oil loss.
@@robbsgarage Thank you for your reply! Ahh I see. Mine might have the same issue then. My mechanic just said that the oil wasn't pumping very well through the valve (therefore smoking out the exhaust) so need to replace the cover. I thought it may have been blocked from being old and dirty but perhaps it's the same as your issue. Thank you for this video, will give it a go replacing it myself as I don't want to pay my mechanic to touch my car anymore.. :)
Did you have much blow by when the oil cap was removed prior to the swap? My 2012 base model has a lot of blow by. 235k miles on it though. Not sure if new pcv would help? Thx@robbsgarage
Any issues with leaks? I'm debating wheather or not to use this same gasket maker on any problem areas. Just replaced my gasket and waiting on some new plugs/ignition coils to re-install. Thanks!
Nope!
can you please tell me the procedure for installing the spark plug tubes? It looks like the right one came out when you removed the valve cover. When you re-installed the valve cover, all four tubes were removed.@ 8:30 they are still not installed but they are @ 8:33. Thank you!
Good catch! Didn’t realize I overlooked showing this step in the video, and since it was so long ago I honestly can’t remember 100% but in rewatching it I think I must have installed the tubes after loosely fitting the valve cover. If I were to do this today, I’d try installing the tubes before the valve cover to make sure they’re properly seated-perhaps I didn’t do this because the valve cover wasn’t going on straight with them installed? Can’t remember, but whatever you do be sure the tubes are properly seated at the base. I don’t recall having to use anything but my hands to ensure fitment, but have heard of some using a socket or pliers to seat them when having to reinstall during sparkling changes (with valve cover on).
Thank you very much Robb! Amazing video. I would appreciate a tightening specification (I understand that the tightening torque is 10Nm). Question - I saw that you used Permatex 82180 Ultra Black RTV. Is it required to apply it or is it possible without Silicone Gasket? Thanks
Thank you. At 9:32 I mention that the torque spec is 7.5 ft lb, which is equivalent to 10nm, so yes you are correct using 10nm.
I’m not a certified mechanic, so take my advice knowing that, but I personally have always applied a little silicone to gaskets like this as an added layer of security to seal in the oil. Maybe I’m just old school, but I wouldn’t risk installing without RTV.
Thx bro ❤
@@robbsgarage this is what gaskets are for! You are like... putting 2 condoms while she's on pill
Hi Rob ,
Thanks for the video!
when the check engine light came on, were you able to read the error codes with the Obd?
Yes, the code indicated that the PCV valve was stuck in the open position. I think it was code P053A but didn’t write it down. I’ll be sure to include code #s in my future videos.
What else did you apply? Silicone? Why did you apply it? Please share the product.
Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker. Not needed everywhere, but helps seal the gasket around that one section I show in the video. Others have reported leaks without using it.
How do you know when the valve cover is due to be changed?
If you have an oil leak around the seal or if you have a check engine light with a code that indicates the PCV valve is stuck open or stuck closed, then time to change. One reviewer commented that you can replace the PCV valve without changing the entire valve cover, but I’m not experienced with this or seen anyone do it yet.
I have the same issue and same mini, same everything. I cannot, for the life of me, put the replacement cover back on. It was easy to take off, but putting the new replacement is hard! It feels like it doesnt fit. But I know its the right cover for my mini. Any tips?
Few things I’d try:
1. Compare the inside curves of the old and new cover to ensure they are indeed the same shape.
2. Double check to make sure the connectors aren’t getting in the way when you try to press the new cover on.
3. Try fitting the rear first on an angle then lay the front down.
If none of those work, let me know where the cover is giving you trouble and I’ll retrace my steps to see if I can think of something else.
@@robbsgarage thanks for replying! We just tried all those things and then it started raining and we headed back inside. But right before we stopped working on it, we noticed the engine hoist was not allowing the right side to align with the bolts. Both covers look identical but the new one could be thicker. Is there a way to remove the hoist?
@@RR_12014hmmm… there probably is a way to remove it but have not done it myself. If the cover is bumping up against the hoist and it’s thicker than the original, I wonder if it’s the correct cover for that engine. Keep in mind that Mini made a few different engines for this generation. Keep us posted on what you find out.
Wrong. You can replace the $20. PCV valve.
I’ve heard mixed reviews about doing that since it’s integrated into the valve cover and once removing the cover you need new gaskets anyway. Please share your experience on replacing just the PCV valve. Would love to hear how it’s worked out!
@robbsgarage Research is the key to any problem with any car. Shop around for replacement parts. Don't settle on the first one you find. If you have to order the part, shipping cost needs to be considered? I once bought a car that someone put the wrong brake pads on the front wheels. Compare old from new part. After market can have an advantage because the new part may see an improved upgrade? Or the down side, the part may be junk? I always do a complete inspection of the new part.
I saw one video, and a guy replaced all kinds of parts on the mini Cooper before he figured out it was a simple $ 20. problem? This is a very expensive situation. Especially with all mini Coopers, you can not do guess work? Sometimes miss reading a scanner can be costly also? Owning a mini Cooper requires patience and knowledge of the vehicle.
I'm so happy you found out how to replace only the PCV that is integrated into the valve cover. It was super insightful of you to give us the link and sources. Keep fighting the good fight, brother
How?
Great video. Thank you. Before you replaced the cover, can you estimate how much oil consumption/loss you had per some number of miles?
I'm having to add a quart pretty frequently. I know i have a small leak around the cover, but I'm pretty sure i need new valve seals as well.
Thank you. If I recall correctly, lost about a quart of oil in ~3k miles, so it burned quite a bit more than I would have expected. After the PCV valve/cover change, no more oil consumption.
@@robbsgarage wow.... That's enough for me to do the cover first and see what happens. Being out a gasket and gasket maker is a small price to pay to avoid replacing seals if I don't have to. Hmmm.
@@underourrock keep in mind, I didn’t have any leaks, the valve was just stuck which caused oil consumption. Still shocked at how much. If you don’t have a code that’s reporting a problem with the valve, it could be more than just your leak (unless it’s a bad leak). Agree with you though, gasket is inexpensive so try that and see what happens. Good luck, and comment back on the results!
Since I'm taking the valve cover off, I'm going to replace the timing chain kit, valve seals, Vanos solenoids, and replace the cover + PVC valve with the aluminum cover. Plastic on top of an engine is just asking for problems.
Maybe when I tear into it I'll see a definite sign of a leak at the gasket. I'd just like to get this car running well and reliable for the next 100k miles. I don't expect it to be problem free... It won't, but if I can knock out many of the worn components in one go I think that leaves me with a water pump, oil pump and a few little odds and ends that should be pretty easy to spot when they go out.
I'll definitely be adding a dash mounted scan gauge to display some temperature and engine/boost data too. Maybe I'll do the Android Headunit someday and put the gauges on there.
Sorry this is a bit long, not expecting a reply. I know that comments on videos can help a little bit with the algorithm though.
Have a good one!
@@underourrock sounds like a great plan. Have you done it yet?
I need to do this right now to my car. It's smoking white smoke from the tail pipe. I am worried I'm destroying my engine.
Quick, simple job. In the meantime, be sure to monitor your oil level and add as needed so it doesn’t get below minimum operating level.
@@robbsgarage I just changed the oil 2 months ago. They did an engine flush too. That's when the smoking started. As soon as I left them. I heard this could fix it.
@@jaydee1389 it’s possible, but there could be something else mechanical causing the smoking. Before buying the valve cover, try reading the codes (local auto part store can if you don’t have a scanner) to see what the computer is reporting. If you have a code that the PCV valve is stuck open then this could fix it.
7:52 you made big mess with your shaking hands