When I was young, I made amps (handmade). The first rule was if I must to make a 2x60W amplifier, I have to buy a transformer of at least 3x60W (VA). In addition to the speakers, the load is also a preamplifier and there are losses due to heating. The transformer itself does not have a 100% degree of efficiency. I am glad that this is not an ordinary video, but it is also very instructive. Like! For LG FA-162 (very, very similar to this model) manufacturr says (in service manual) it has 2x60W. Power consumption is 50w, only 5 watts more than yours model but 40watts less to speakers??? Output stage is HT1000-4 (TAS5142 is eq). Datasheet for this chips says 2x80watts. Every one lies...
thank you, i have similar history building amps and it seems the words "average" and "RMS" and "nominal" mean nothing to marketing for hifi's, its only a PMPO rating which is like they add the power rating of every component in the whole hifi to get a wildly unrealistic value. The problem is that consumers think higher is better so there is no turning back now...
This is quite an exceptional little setup. I bought the earlier version around 2010, the pre-Blue Tooth version, when LG were trying to phase it out but they have gone back to this design because they had hit a real sweet spot. I was used to audiophile hi-fi and was stunned by its ability to project spatially at a rock bottom price but the speakers need to be about 5 feet (1.5m) apart. You can really hear the layers of sound and where different instruments are coming from or where different voices and sounds are coming from if used for watching films or TV. At this price point it is almost unheard of. and so I guess the reviewer did not even consider it a possibility to test for it. And every other system that I listened to at this price point had woolly treble and midrange and the bass was just indistinct noise. Even moderate volumes led to painful distortion. By comparison this system was crisp and precise, if not gut wrenching in the depths of bass. However it was powerful enough for an impromptu disco on a 10m x 10m patio. (Wattage is almost irrelevant unless mixing and matching different components. Different speakers have different sensitivities, ie the noise (in decibels) that they produce per watt of power input. These are highly sensitive speakers because they are 4 ohm as opposed to the normal 8, so they very easy to drive for a modest amplifier. If I remember the specs correctly they have a sensitivity of around 90dB/W when many speakers are around 80dB/W, meaning that a 10W amplifier with these speakers produces the same noise as a 100W amplifier with other speakers. This low power requirement for the speakers went beyond using an amplifier well within its limits so that it never distorted when pushed past its limits as other companies would have done. Instead, it allowed LG to develop an economical version of a Class A amplifier, Class A being the gold standard which is seriously ridiculous for this money.) This system really is that special technically and the result is exceptional in terms of the sound quality and quantity per buck. The truth is that I miss my little LG having sent it to a good home when I moved house. Now that I have seen that they have relaunched it, I am seriously considering buying the newer version. My only reservation is that it is sensitive to positioning in a room to get the best from it. The speakers need to be away from the back wall because they are rear ported and will distort if they are too close. Other designs of speaker, known as bookcase speakers, can be put right up against a wall. Side walls are less of a problem since you simply reverse the speakers (and cables) so that the side facing bass speakers project inwards rather than facing out.
yeah thanks and i have found this to be the best "little" hi fi i have tested. I agree, the sound is in another league especially for rock music. I never thought to test with a TV.
Odid you get it? I too had the older version and the new one seems to miss the xts-pro mode and x-bass ...replaced with a bkuetooth icon and "bass blast" function...
I dont care what anybody says. This home audio has perfect clear sound! I am not going to throw out hundreds of dollars for slight improvement in sound by buying expensive audiophile system. Good review, though..
I like the sound of mine that I've had for about a month. There is one big hang up I have with it that has only become apparent to me recently; absolutely _no_ secure means of Bluetooth pairing. i.e. Any Bluetooth-capable device can pair with it without any prompt first being given by a user via this stereo, _regardless_ of which mode it's in. The pairings can be initiated by anyone in range; neighbours... passers-by... even when the damn thing's turned off, as long as it's connected to a live wall outlet and "auto power on" is enabled! I did some angry searching afterwards and it looks like other select audio peripherals from at least LG and Bose have the same carefree behaviour regarding Bluetooth pairing. Even more enraging is how the CM2760's owner's manual touts this "feature" for its convenience or something stupid (see "AUTO POWER on" and "Auto function change" on page 19). Kind of violating, frankly.
Hey Admiral, it has hidden feature or so.. You Need to hold the power off button for more than 5 sec, and it will be turned off completely without option for insecure pairing.
No you're doing this wrong. The unit consumes 45w when turned on, but the output is rate in db watts, if this were as you described then how could you have a 50w speaker setup in a car and a 150w speaker setup in another car when they both use a 12v battery? Their input power is still the same. By using amplifiers you can ramp up or down a voltage while conversely changing the current. Remember you have 240v going in, you aren't getting 240v coming out of the speaker wires, the voltage is stepped down and amps go up to give you the power you need for sound.
@oo0Spyder0oo you are clearly very, very confused! 1 milliwatt = −30 dBW, 1 watt = 0 dBW, 10 watts = 10 dBW, 100 watts = 20 dBW, 1,000,000 W = 60 dBW and 160 dBW = 10,000,000,000,000,000 watts Again it is clearly marked RMS not dBW. You cannot clearly read an RMS value and interpret it as dBW and think you can get away with it like the phony set of speakers he just reviewed. The very least you can do is search for knowledge on google before posting such misleading information.
@@oo0Spyder0oo Actually no, the output is rated in RMS. The RMS power is rated by taking a voltage reading from the amp with a true RMS meter with the amp outputting a signal with no more than 10% THD with a cheap amp. The voltage reading is then used to calculate the wattage. Say the amp is outputting 20 volts into a 4 ohm load. Then you divide 20 by 4 and get 5 amps of current, then you multiply 5 by 20 (the voltage) and get 100 watts of power. This is ohms law, look it up. There is no way to get more power out then you put in. So assuming this stereo outputs 160 watts RMS it would have to pull at least 168 watts (assuming 95% efficiency which is incredibly good).
@@JoshuasRecordings rms is .707 of peak power, you assume I don't know anything about electronics? 'ohms law, look it up'? You supercilious arrogant twat. I know how to get power and you didn't demonstrate how to get rms at all in this diatribe. Fuck off.
It consumes 45w and gives 160rms that means 160w of sound not 160w consumed, the cable is tick when it pushed like 2ohms in power amps that are way more powerful. I would like to see the internals of the "amp" or a teardown video, great video overall
@@ecologicaltime You are wrong. The consumption is simply how much it consumes from the mains. E.G. a hi fi drawing 45w will cost more to run in electricity than one drawing 25, regardless of output power. It consumes more. You don't mention THD which is how much the amp distorts. A good THD is 10 or under. 5 or under is excellent. This will be in your manual. I have a CM 4360. Output is 230 RMS/ 115 each speaker. THD is 20%, which isn't good, so whilst it's bassy with Bass blast on at a decent volume (10/40 or 1/4 power is very loud) it's not as smooth and rounded bass as high end hi-fi. It's clear, but the presets can be tinny too muddy for my liking. The Bass Blast is the best IMHO. It's always worth noting that switching speakers to a better pair at the same or higher impedance can in prove sound quality. On my LG, low mid range was good, upper mids were terribly non existent, a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 9.0's improved that no end. I now have a pair of Sony's on it, and the Wharfedales are on a Sony system.
Help me do correctly connect this system: 2x LB 15 Hybrid Speakers, 2x BP 12 Hybrid Speakers to ML1260PDUX Hybrid Mixer, CX223 Hybrid Crossover and B1200 Amp. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this review! Whould you say its a good hi fi for heavy metal (i only listen to Music at home with cd's so this importat too) Many thanks!
better than most hifi. With metal the sound is still full. Sometimes on the cheaper hifi, metal sounds tinny and thin. This LG has a full sound with metal.
like karaoke? there is no mic input but there is "line input". This means that you could put a mic in but it wouldn't allow you to have music from another source while you sing.
angela Ναι Έλληνας ! Κοιτά για οικιακή απλή χρήση καλό μου φάνηκε μν νομίζεις ότι το χρησιμοποιώ ιδιαίτερα .. Έχει πολύ εύκολη συνδεσιμότητα με το Bluetooth! Και ωραιο Design
@@richardmorrow6381bro i really dont understand i think the amp on it that is making the 160w sound because i put on max volume via bluetooth and 30 to 35 on the system and people can ear it from the other street. I find these maybe a lil less volume than fa162 that my father bought years ago, recently i bought this one for me.. and it not disapoint i usually use it in rock or bass boost modes between 18 and 30 and it is wonderfull quality!!
@@ecologicaltime Whos talking about RMS power ? and weight depends on what type of amp it is, class D amps are pretty light. You pointed to the back of the amp and gave all sorts of wrong info on the 45w stamped letters lol, you cant deduce the power of the amp by looking to the average power consumption, only if it were written like this " MAX 45W" . Just plug it into a wat reader and play some bass heavy song and you will see the real power consumption triple that writen on the back ;)
the LG package says 160WRMS. I say its not 160W RMS as the power rating at back would be much higher in order to provide 160WRMS. Even for class D which is what this unit is probably. Thanks for your comment but i dont agree with you. Maybe under extreme circumstances there could be a peak output of higher than 45W when a cap discharges, but nope this unit is not 160 W RMS and that is what i was talking about. Here is the definition: Mean power, or root mean square (RMS) power handling, refers to how much continuous power the speaker can handle.
@@ecologicaltime Your still wrong dude lol not saying its true rms is 160w, but you cant judge that just because on the back of the unit it says 45w, thats average power consumption, not the max lol, just test it and you will see.
@@exoticg9 you said that everything i said in the video at 3:28 is wrong. In the video i said that 45W cannot be considered enough to provide 160WRMS and i provided reasons - weight, cable size etc. You then said: "Thats (45W) the average power consumption, not the max lool" - so you are saying that the unit is 160WRMS and that 45W is average power and that the unit can deliver 160WRMS as RMS is a max value? So your are saying the labeling is correct? By the way, hifi are supposed to be labelled according to max continuous output for each speaker. So if an amp is 160WRMS it means its actually 2x160RMS as 160RMS is per speaker, again just showing how ridiculous these marketing specifications have become. I own a 200WRMS rotel amplifier, each channel is rated 200WRMS @8ohms- power consumption on back face plate is 560W Since the amplifier is not a generator it cannot make more power than it outputs, so power in is higher than power out owing to efficiency losses. If the Rotel amp was class D, the power on face plate would be closer to 400W as efficiency is higher.
![🔮📻The 7 [Best] Micro Hi Fi Systems UK | Micro Hi fi Compare](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cBqVmZGQJ0s/mqdefault.jpg)
That micro Hifi was from the time when Mark Levinson worked for LG. Sound Q is excellent. 163 model is even better choice.
When I was young, I made amps (handmade). The first rule was if I must to make a 2x60W amplifier, I have to buy a transformer of at least 3x60W (VA). In addition to the speakers, the load is also a preamplifier and there are losses due to heating. The transformer itself does not have a 100% degree of efficiency. I am glad that this is not an ordinary video, but it is also very instructive. Like!
For LG FA-162 (very, very similar to this model) manufacturr says (in service manual) it has 2x60W. Power consumption is 50w, only 5 watts more than yours model but 40watts less to speakers??? Output stage is HT1000-4 (TAS5142 is eq). Datasheet for this chips says 2x80watts. Every one lies...
thank you, i have similar history building amps and it seems the words "average" and "RMS" and "nominal" mean nothing to marketing for hifi's, its only a PMPO rating which is like they add the power rating of every component in the whole hifi to get a wildly unrealistic value. The problem is that consumers think higher is better so there is no turning back now...
@@ecologicaltime hey can I play my own custom music on it and how like Spotify and stuff
This is quite an exceptional little setup. I bought the earlier version around 2010, the pre-Blue Tooth version, when LG were trying to phase it out but they have gone back to this design because they had hit a real sweet spot.
I was used to audiophile hi-fi and was stunned by its ability to project spatially at a rock bottom price but the speakers need to be about 5 feet (1.5m) apart. You can really hear the layers of sound and where different instruments are coming from or where different voices and sounds are coming from if used for watching films or TV. At this price point it is almost unheard of. and so I guess the reviewer did not even consider it a possibility to test for it.
And every other system that I listened to at this price point had woolly treble and midrange and the bass was just indistinct noise. Even moderate volumes led to painful distortion. By comparison this system was crisp and precise, if not gut wrenching in the depths of bass. However it was powerful enough for an impromptu disco on a 10m x 10m patio.
(Wattage is almost irrelevant unless mixing and matching different components. Different speakers have different sensitivities, ie the noise (in decibels) that they produce per watt of power input. These are highly sensitive speakers because they are 4 ohm as opposed to the normal 8, so they very easy to drive for a modest amplifier. If I remember the specs correctly they have a sensitivity of around 90dB/W when many speakers are around 80dB/W, meaning that a 10W amplifier with these speakers produces the same noise as a 100W amplifier with other speakers. This low power requirement for the speakers went beyond using an amplifier well within its limits so that it never distorted when pushed past its limits as other companies would have done. Instead, it allowed LG to develop an economical version of a Class A amplifier, Class A being the gold standard which is seriously ridiculous for this money.)
This system really is that special technically and the result is exceptional in terms of the sound quality and quantity per buck.
The truth is that I miss my little LG having sent it to a good home when I moved house. Now that I have seen that they have relaunched it, I am seriously considering buying the newer version. My only reservation is that it is sensitive to positioning in a room to get the best from it. The speakers need to be away from the back wall because they are rear ported and will distort if they are too close. Other designs of speaker, known as bookcase speakers, can be put right up against a wall. Side walls are less of a problem since you simply reverse the speakers (and cables) so that the side facing bass speakers project inwards rather than facing out.
yeah thanks and i have found this to be the best "little" hi fi i have tested. I agree, the sound is in another league especially for rock music. I never thought to test with a TV.
@@ecologicaltime so this is good for rock metal music?
Odid you get it? I too had the older version and the new one seems to miss the xts-pro mode and x-bass ...replaced with a bkuetooth icon and "bass blast" function...
@@mrcodpwns Yes i recommend it
But I don't think it is a class A amplifier. Perhaps it is a class D amplifier. Am I right?
I dont care what anybody says. This home audio has perfect clear sound! I am not going to throw out hundreds of dollars for slight improvement in sound by buying expensive audiophile system. Good review, though..
its a good system, one of my best
I like the sound of mine that I've had for about a month. There is one big hang up I have with it that has only become apparent to me recently; absolutely _no_ secure means of Bluetooth pairing. i.e. Any Bluetooth-capable device can pair with it without any prompt first being given by a user via this stereo, _regardless_ of which mode it's in. The pairings can be initiated by anyone in range; neighbours... passers-by... even when the damn thing's turned off, as long as it's connected to a live wall outlet and "auto power on" is enabled! I did some angry searching afterwards and it looks like other select audio peripherals from at least LG and Bose have the same carefree behaviour regarding Bluetooth pairing. Even more enraging is how the CM2760's owner's manual touts this "feature" for its convenience or something stupid (see "AUTO POWER on" and "Auto function change" on page 19). Kind of violating, frankly.
Hey Admiral, it has hidden feature or so.. You Need to hold the power off button for more than 5 sec, and it will be turned off completely without option for insecure pairing.
I have this system. I love it.
Its good?
Jai Jagai me tooo😍
@@nenno1396 It's very good!
I've still got one of these still sealed in the box. I probably should get it out and see if it works after all these years.
The rated 45w on the back of the unit is its Power Consumption I think and the 160w on the packaging is the rated wattage on its sound in RMS..
RMS cannot be higher than the power consumption. RMS reflects the actual output the speakers produce.
No you're doing this wrong. The unit consumes 45w when turned on, but the output is rate in db watts, if this were as you described then how could you have a 50w speaker setup in a car and a 150w speaker setup in another car when they both use a 12v battery? Their input power is still the same. By using amplifiers you can ramp up or down a voltage while conversely changing the current. Remember you have 240v going in, you aren't getting 240v coming out of the speaker wires, the voltage is stepped down and amps go up to give you the power you need for sound.
@oo0Spyder0oo you are clearly very, very confused!
1 milliwatt = −30 dBW, 1 watt = 0 dBW, 10 watts = 10 dBW, 100 watts = 20 dBW, 1,000,000 W = 60 dBW and 160 dBW = 10,000,000,000,000,000 watts
Again it is clearly marked RMS not dBW. You cannot clearly read an RMS value and interpret it as dBW and think you can get away with it like the phony set of speakers he just reviewed.
The very least you can do is search for knowledge on google before posting such misleading information.
@@oo0Spyder0oo Actually no, the output is rated in RMS. The RMS power is rated by taking a voltage reading from the amp with a true RMS meter with the amp outputting a signal with no more than 10% THD with a cheap amp. The voltage reading is then used to calculate the wattage. Say the amp is outputting 20 volts into a 4 ohm load. Then you divide 20 by 4 and get 5 amps of current, then you multiply 5 by 20 (the voltage) and get 100 watts of power. This is ohms law, look it up.
There is no way to get more power out then you put in. So assuming this stereo outputs 160 watts RMS it would have to pull at least 168 watts (assuming 95% efficiency which is incredibly good).
@@JoshuasRecordings rms is .707 of peak power, you assume I don't know anything about electronics? 'ohms law, look it up'? You supercilious arrogant twat. I know how to get power and you didn't demonstrate how to get rms at all in this diatribe. Fuck off.
Disculpe mi Bluetooth se bloqueó, como le puedo hacer
Where will get the home theater system
Today i get one 4 me, it sounds terrific, and its all with sensor.
Did you use EQ sets?
So how does this connect to your tv if your tv isnt a smart tv??
It consumes 45w and gives 160rms that means 160w of sound not 160w consumed, the cable is tick when it pushed like 2ohms in power amps that are way more powerful. I would like to see the internals of the "amp" or a teardown video, great video overall
a device cannot output more than it is fed. If input = 45W then max output could only be 45W - losses. Therefore 160 impossible.
@@ecologicaltime You are wrong. The consumption is simply how much it consumes from the mains. E.G. a hi fi drawing 45w will cost more to run in electricity than one drawing 25, regardless of output power. It consumes more. You don't mention THD which is how much the amp distorts. A good THD is 10 or under. 5 or under is excellent. This will be in your manual. I have a CM 4360. Output is 230 RMS/ 115 each speaker. THD is 20%, which isn't good, so whilst it's bassy with Bass blast on at a decent volume (10/40 or 1/4 power is very loud) it's not as smooth and rounded bass as high end hi-fi. It's clear, but the presets can be tinny too muddy for my liking. The Bass Blast is the best IMHO. It's always worth noting that switching speakers to a better pair at the same or higher impedance can in prove sound quality. On my LG, low mid range was good, upper mids were terribly non existent, a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 9.0's improved that no end. I now have a pair of Sony's on it, and the Wharfedales are on a Sony system.
Does it read song titles in USB?
i am bout to buy these and i dont know can i connect it to my Samsung HT DB120 Home teather
where I connect the LS & RS inputs
Help me do correctly connect this system: 2x LB 15 Hybrid Speakers, 2x BP 12 Hybrid Speakers to ML1260PDUX Hybrid Mixer, CX223 Hybrid Crossover and B1200 Amp. Thank you.
Hey bro can you please tell me how can i connect that speakers with my TV
it has 6 different display modes? what changes in the display?
45w is just the mains power consumption !
I have a sony hifi how it compares to lg on sound quality?
can i connect this toy to my computer?
o Formiga if you got blue tooth in your computer you can
@@ciasteczkovyy154 it's not possible to plug in with cables ?
@@sambadoyes it is... i just plug in to mine right now and the power is 🤯🤯🤯
Thx good review
How do I put off demo mode
Thank you so much for this review!
Whould you say its a good hi fi for heavy metal (i only listen to Music at home with cd's so this importat too)
Many thanks!
better than most hifi. With metal the sound is still full. Sometimes on the cheaper hifi, metal sounds tinny and thin. This LG has a full sound with metal.
Hi If i use 6 ohms or 8 ohms replacement speakers will the amplifier inside this unit run hotter or cooler / easier? Thanks
lower ohms = higher current = more heat.
What is the song at 7:50?
Boys Noize
You know what pissed me off ? That he connected the wrong side of speakers the white gose to white I have the same unit and that pissed me off
They have it in Veikon Kone for 139,- € in Jalasjärvi Finland.:)
i guess it is kind of off topic but does anyone know a good place to stream newly released tv shows online ?
@Vincent Miller i would suggest Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
@Jaxx Zeke Yup, have been using flixzone for since april myself =)
@Jaxx Zeke thank you, I went there and it seems like a nice service :) I really appreciate it!
@Vincent Miller glad I could help =)
Should I get this one or the LG CK 43?
both good, I prefer the look of the CM2760 but the CK43 is easier to use for volume control.
is wire maded from aluminium?
very good, as this car still has room on the scrub radius.
Can I connect a microphone for my little daughter?
like karaoke? there is no mic input but there is "line input". This means that you could put a mic in but it wouldn't allow you to have music from another source while you sing.
ελληνας βλεπω.. το αγορασες τελικα;; αν ναι, για πες καμια εντυπωση κι απο δω που σκεφτομαι να το αγορασω! ευχαριστω
angela Ναι Έλληνας ! Κοιτά για οικιακή απλή χρήση καλό μου φάνηκε μν νομίζεις ότι το χρησιμοποιώ ιδιαίτερα .. Έχει πολύ εύκολη συνδεσιμότητα με το Bluetooth! Και ωραιο Design
Es hermoso. Nunca llegó a Chile :(
good job
Great review
How can it had 160 watt , if it draws 45 wat ?
it cannot, its just marketing, its only 45W
@@ecologicaltime If it has a 45 watt RMS , i think it is enough for small / medium - sized rooms .
@@richardmorrow6381bro i really dont understand i think the amp on it that is making the 160w sound because i put on max volume via bluetooth and 30 to 35 on the system and people can ear it from the other street. I find these maybe a lil less volume than fa162 that my father bought years ago, recently i bought this one for me.. and it not disapoint i usually use it in rock or bass boost modes between 18 and 30 and it is wonderfull quality!!
nice video and very well explain it helps me a lot, thanks for sharing! :)
Can I conect blue tooh
yes
@@ecologicaltime hey bro can you please tell me how can i connect that speakers with my TV
@@ecologicaltime how?
45 is a power consumation
If got lg tv connect smart tv
3:28 omg never seen so much wrong info ... Thats the average power consumption, not the max lool
RMS is not peak so my point stands correct. Check out a 160W RMS amp for example a NAD or Rotel, it weighs about 12kg...
@@ecologicaltime Whos talking about RMS power ? and weight depends on what type of amp it is, class D amps are pretty light. You pointed to the back of the amp and gave all sorts of wrong info on the 45w stamped letters lol, you cant deduce the power of the amp by looking to the average power consumption, only if it were written like this " MAX 45W" . Just plug it into a wat reader and play some bass heavy song and you will see the real power consumption triple that writen on the back ;)
the LG package says 160WRMS. I say its not 160W RMS as the power rating at back would be much higher in order to provide 160WRMS. Even for class D which is what this unit is probably. Thanks for your comment but i dont agree with you. Maybe under extreme circumstances there could be a peak output of higher than 45W when a cap discharges, but nope this unit is not 160 W RMS and that is what i was talking about. Here is the definition: Mean power, or root mean square (RMS) power handling, refers to how much continuous power the speaker can handle.
@@ecologicaltime Your still wrong dude lol not saying its true rms is 160w, but you cant judge that just because on the back of the unit it says 45w, thats average power consumption, not the max lol, just test it and you will see.
@@exoticg9 you said that everything i said in the video at 3:28 is wrong. In the video i said that 45W cannot be considered enough to provide 160WRMS and i provided reasons - weight, cable size etc. You then said: "Thats (45W) the average power consumption, not the max lool" - so you are saying that the unit is 160WRMS and that 45W is average power and that the unit can deliver 160WRMS as RMS is a max value? So your are saying the labeling is correct?
By the way, hifi are supposed to be labelled according to max continuous output for each speaker. So if an amp is 160WRMS it means its actually 2x160RMS as 160RMS is per speaker, again just showing how ridiculous these marketing specifications have become.
I own a 200WRMS rotel amplifier, each channel is rated 200WRMS @8ohms- power consumption on back face plate is 560W
Since the amplifier is not a generator it cannot make more power than it outputs, so power in is higher than power out owing to efficiency losses.
If the Rotel amp was class D, the power on face plate would be closer to 400W as efficiency is higher.
LG gives Philips battery
long ago they had quite a lot of overlap, in fact Philips monitors and LG were one and the same.
Ayan Biswas
JBL home theatre
They are same company :D
Rata kya ha
are they worth 150€?
yes
@@ecologicaltime great answer, 1+
Güzelmiş bende LG 4360 var
L and R are wrong way conected
oops, but as long as the subwoofer section faces outwards!
To much speaking, not allow the audiences to heard the speaker sound quality...!!!!!
Exactly!
Indeed, the "review" is pretty useless.
@J Fz recorded on a camera microfone :D
Do you want to hear a quality from a speaker through a RUclips video? You have a problem on your brain.
@@KosmasMJpec have a good reference for how others youtuber like "Oluv Gadgets" doing their test..
Bende LGcm4360var
I just bought this model and I’m really disappointed in the sound quality... I know it’s not an expensive item but still my tv sounds better :/
Go to a doctor to see your ears.
@@KosmasMJpec *Check your ears 🙄
dosen't know how to make a review, and dosen't know how speakers work
Travis Bhogal Frog Mexico i have a new one of this and the sound is great very powerfull
Kbanyakn omong...
Gtau artinya nh bule.. 😀😀😀
no paras de hablar y no se aprecia el sonido del aparato
feet worship
OK
3:23 made in china i'm out of here
then you going to be out of almost everything