Why The Nissan 300ZX Teardown Was Pure Genius
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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Today we go through the diagnostic steps in which I take to find what's causing this Misfire and ticking I'm getting from my freshly built VG30.
Starting with the simplest of things such as inspecting the spark plugs, which leads to compression test as well as a leak down test which ultimately leads to a complete engine teardown.
Unfortunately this is part of it. This is all part of "Hot Rodding" - Call me an old soul as most would opt to send certain things away and have other people do the work for them.. I however do learn the hard way at times, and you can bet that I would never make this mistake again!
WHEEL SPECS:
XXR521
18X10 +25 REAR
18X9 +35 Front
300ZX Factory Service Manuals!
www.nicoclub.c...
Bowler performance transmissions!
www.bowlertran...
Polar Engineering Turbo manifold and downpipe kit!
www.polarengin...
Merlin Machining T56 swap kit!
merlinmachinin...
True ARP 2000 Stud Kit! www.zshackperf...
www.zshackperf...
Wanna support the channel and get some stuff for your own build that i enjoy using? Below are some affiliate links to check out!
amzn.to/3HQ9Hw8 Engine oil pre-luber
amzn.to/3XfvOTI Boost control solenoids
Efan setup:
amzn.to/3pfewtt -Spal 30102049 16" Curved Blade Performance Fan , Black
fan relay harness: amzn.to/3p4rytT
amzn.to/3tCRHCf -1/4 Inch od Push to Connect Fittings Pneumatic Fittings Kit
amzn.to/3H4HiCi - Elbow and Straight Combination 1/4 Inch Tube OD x 1/4 Inch NPT Thread
amzn.to/3S7DTsW - Nylon push-connect hose
amzn.to/3H4HzVQ - use these to adapt to a barb fitting for regular silicone hose
Extra T56 swap parts that i've used here.
amzn.to/3SlbIHa -Tilton Hydraulic release bearing for T56
amzn.to/48mBfFl - needed to go from the - 4an Tilton fitting to -3 on the chasebays hose.
amzn.to/3RKFxPM - deutsch connectors for the wiring!
amzn.to/3H7eetX - deutsch crimper!
Tools and stuff
amzn.to/3OQmnrT - Lisle 81780 Carbide Scraper Set -
amzn.to/3OQmnrT -Permatex copper spray
Quinn 1/2" digital torque wrench -amzn.to/3NdbKOG - Mine is snapon, but if i had to get another this would be it.
Music:
Unknown Brain - Superhero (feat. Chris Linton) [NCS Release]
Billy, you showed the ups and downs of this build, which is testament to your humbleness and humility. The most learning occurs during the unexpected hurdles that occur throughout life (academia, personal, professional, social, etc.). As always, great content.
Hats off to you for doing all that yourself. The best learning experiences in life are failures, and now you know your car that much better. Thanks for the content!
Well Said! and Thank you!
You should check the tolerance on the crank bearings on cylinder #2 as well. That contact can do some damage to bearings. VG's have some critical specs to not be ignored, they were well over engineered by even today's standards, so when going aftermarket you must verify you additions. The 300ZX was the red-headed step child of the JDM world, but deserves all the respect. Been watching your build for the past few months, and have enjoyed it. Look forward to more content.
As soon as I heard just a steady whine rather than a chug chug from the compression test my heart dropped... Loving this build, loving this car. Keep going dude! 👌👌
Thank you!
Atleast it was not a total crisis! Glad you figured out the problem. And now beeing able to avoid potential future problems with the same issue on the other valves. :)
Exactly!
So I've been watching you complete your amazing build which inspired me to complete my 12 year project. I am about to start wrenching on my own as I am refurbing my garage. Largely due to your channel and that Z of yours. Hats off! I love it. That said I seem to be having your 'Irish Luck' with my 1990 Z32. I got a machine shop that does VG's to do a stage 1 long block all done with fresh wiseco pistons valve job lapping etc. It sat on a stand for 12 years bathed and rotated in 5w30 basic oil. No Pan no valve covers no intake manifold on so it's ports are masked and it's wrapped in bubble wrap and the Johnson bar rotates it weekly to keep things fresh. So I break in the motor with break in oil. I go from good leak down test. 110 psi compression on all 6 cylinders pre break in. I drove low-no boost keeping oil splashing to cams and lifters with sweeping vacuum pulls with low rpm creeping around the neighborhood filing in those fresh rings, feeling the oil get behind the rings in the deceleration rinse repeat. So 300 miles. ( I'm told under good authority that inspite of hype, after 150 miles it's done 99% of what it's gonna do. ) 300 miles in I'm at 150 psi across all 6 cylinders. Success! I broke in the new 1990 VGDETT but with one big problem. It started running like it's on 4 cylinders. I towed it to the shop Diagnosing this and that because (ZERO) psi test on right bank two cylinders. As soon as my car started running bad, also great afr's lol. Then I talked to a SoCal mechanic that specializes in these motors. He tells me the hydraulic lifter exhaust side is (decompressed) and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Early ones can be separated soaked & cleaned with brake clean. Involves exhaust cam removal. The hydraulic lifter after reasembly will be in its compressed (floating) state with a ball valve spring and hole making the hydraulic lifter able to transfer energy between the cam lobe and lifter once again. The hydraulic lifter becomes 1/16th +- shorter and allows the EXH valve to seat once again so as to not HISSS and simply not make compression stroke possible by being decompressed ( too full of oil) assembly past retainer snap position. The hydraulic lifter becomes too long and holds the exhaust valve open which gives you your zero reading. My car and this task is underway by certified professionals so x ing fingers. I'm also told , to cheer me up, count yourself lucky you didn't snap a cam, a decompressed lifter on 1 or 2 cylinders is par for the course with VG break ins. Hydraulic lifter complete assembly the night before engine install prevents this issue as they are all moving and fresh. And compressed. Once accidentally decompressed due to excess oil in hydraulic lifter it physically becomes longer and holds the cam open. For your HP I believe solid lifters negate all this BS. Hope this helps I'm held back from cruising 18 months on this matter. Good luck.. I love your channel.
Holds the EXH valve open...*
Pull your cam. Leave the head on.
I have learned that there are no failures if you learn from mistakes and get better
This is that part of modding cars that can destroy your soul and break your will. Ironically its also the thing that makes it all worth it when its done. I just got my Z32 running nicely with more power and the clutch left the chat instantly, so back on jack stands and pulling the tranny this weekend
This sux. I know that feeling all too well. It happened to me when I let a local z shop do the first build , failed . Had to redo everything. But made it so much better second time around and DID IT MYSELF.
I've heard so many stories similar to this, which is why I've Always tried to do as much as possible myself.
It sucks that this happened to you. What I like that not all people show, but you do show it, is the 'you live and learn' part. That you show when things go right and when things go wrong. Looking forward to se this beast rip down the streets!
Appreciate that! Its not bad honestly. Just a lot of work. 😅
That sucks but look how far you've come with this car. You'll be back better than before. Definitely keep it up!
i am sorry this happened, but in hind sight, if you truly are looking to become a fulltime youtuber. this is the best path. cause dama and controversy demands views.. and sharing this content should propel your channel forward, working on and fixes gets way more views then just driving a finished car. so sucks ball sack. but for your ultimate goal. this is content and content is king!! TY for sharing!
Sad but true lol
Great job to showing your ups and downs. That's real life. Live and learn. Good luck!
You can say that again.. Thank you!
live and learn. Nothing wrong with making mistakes. I appreciate you sharing them with the rest of us
This is why you set your failsafes pretty high during the intial test drive. I do t know what ECU you’re running but there are some that would shut the engine down once the comp drops or loss in cyl pressure.
Also generally someone who has experience in building engines would clearance the valves just to be on the safe side. Even if you’re building the heads yourself take it to a machine shop to get the clearances checked over (which is what I do). It’s like torquing bolts vs not torquing bolts. Sure nothing might happen because tight is tight and it generally never backs out… until it does.
We all make mistakes and I’m in no way blaming you. Sometimes you have to slow down enough to do the steps needed in order to prevent this from happening. I’ve been in the engine building game for 30 yrs so I’ve had my share of mistakes early in the game. I was fortunate enough to learn from the best enough to never having an issue after a build because I followed the steps from checking clearances to properly torquing bolts to setting failsafes on the first rips to properly breaking in an engine. Even if I have to stop it off at a machine shop even though I have the tools to do it. Hence why tools are the biggest investment you can make as an engine builder. Good luck on the rebuild 👍🏾
Curious, What sensors do you use to actively monitor cylinder pressure or compression?
@@Billy_Built an optical cyl pressure sensor which is usually mounted in the head itself. Most usually weld a bung closes to the combustion. Expensive yes and the sample rate is not great I’ll admit. Mostly used in an engine dyno but I’ve seen them used as a shutdown failsafe.
The common way is to monitor for misfire and config your standalone to shut the engine down once it detects it. All of these options do t prevent it, it just allows you to know right away what the problem is so you don’t try starting or driving it after it shuts down.
Bummer... glad I kept my stock valves and upper end.. My old man always advised against bronze/aftermarket "racing sh*t" valve guides also. Hope you get it fixed right and check all of them !
Some truth to that. I'm still using the factory valve guides. just aftermarket exhaust valves.
My first engine (one that was in my zed when I bought it) had been stop leaked. I rebuilt it myself. 3 hours after driving. It milked up the coolant again. Totally crushed at the time but I was a noob and made mistakes. Bought another engine amd rebuilt that and finally got to drive again with coolant staying as coolant 😅 I feel your pain! As others have said, we appreciate you showing the bad times as well. Goodluck with the repairs!
All part of it! Will be back up and running before you know it!
@@Billy_Built Looking forward to it!
Ugg this video is making me nauseous and anxious like a gory film lol
I’m close to my first start after a ton of changes. Motor was solid before I took it down. Nothing was opened just new turbos, BDE cam trigger, r35 coils and a spal efan.
I’m so nervous!! Glad it’s not so a complete disaster. Way to stick with it
You just gotta do it! The nervous feeling never goes away 😅
Great video! Sorry for the bad luck. I had to clearance mine when installed new bronze guides. It's pretty easy to do, so you should be up and running quickly. I would start off with a reamer and fine tune it with a hone. Just take your time cause you don't want to end up with too high of a clearance. Good luck.
Thank you! and yup. I've already started on it. It's coming in the next video. Still using the factory valve guides though.
As a fellow Z32 owner who recently finally got their car back on the road only to have some Gremlins pop up, I'm pulling for you. Appreciate the vg30dett content.
Great attitude homie! You got this!
keep at it bro! VG30DETT Till the day I DIE!!
Man sorry to hear about the failure. I called a bent valve before you mentioned it, went thru a similar failure 2yrs ago on my vr4 where I think a foreign object made its way into the tbelt are and you can guess the rest. Needed all new valves practically. But you e got the right mindset and you'll be back in business in no time!
The DSM timing belt special is killer
It all part of the game bro..come back stronger..
me either, ive heard of the length of the valve stem needed to be clearence if going solid lifters. but the valve guide. noramlly the valves are just made to oem size specs to prevent this sort of thing, but maby manly feels the girth of the oem valves are a weak point.. idk. sorry but appreciate the videos and thank god your pistons and rods and bearings are all minty. a nice rough scorth brite pad should clean up that piston nicley,you just want to get rid of any sharp edge, you def dont want to take away any material changing the cc's of that cylinder.
epic build, never stop uploading 💪🏼
Appreciate it!
Always enjoy your content and wait to see the rebuild
Thanks! It will be back up in no time.
Same happened to me and was bad lifter stock open.
Was some aftermarket lifters NO BUEENO.!! Wen back to oem..
Man rough week for me; sold my sexy Z32 to shop for a GTR. Don’t think GTR as sexy as a Z32 especially the way I had it setup.
youre motor has not had much run time at all, sucks, but taking both heads to machine shop to have this service done is highly advised. they can reem out your valve guides to suit your valves perfectly.
You have way bigger problems than i thought. Hoping my valve isnt crushed... dang these cars.
YO BILLY DON T. WORRY YOU WILL BOUNCE BACK JUST LIKE A BIG DOGG 😊
Brother drew for the old but gold playlist
@01:54 sorry broskie. shits is worth it.. but fuck is it HARD FN STRESSFULL WORK.. keep at if hommie!
Keep going great work 🔥🔥🔥
oil in spark plug galley will cause a missfire
leak down test on cyl 2 next?
I'm so sorry about your car. I am confused about the valve clearance problem is it the valve adjust like shims under the bucket?
No. Valve guide clearance. It's the clearance between the valve stem and the valve guide in the head.
Well not the best scenario but i think you came out ok i cant wait till the next pull shes going to be a beast love your video's keep it up
I'm hoping to have it back on the road within another month! So Soon Enough!
Liking and leaving a comment so maybe these RUclips ad dollars help with your expenses
😅 appreciate this thinking. I'm very fortunate it's only a 30$ valve and a 50$ tool, and a lot of my time.. Building a website as we speak for Z32 merchandise however for anyone who's interested.
@@Billy_Built i’m a web developer by day. Z addict by night.
Trying to sneak a video in after hours???
Whilst a pain, the problem isn't insurmountable... I was guessing a spring was broken..
Well done, Billy.
Mann it was honestly an accident 😅 thought I hit schedule and instead I guess I published it. I was hoping it was a spring or lifter 🥲
@@Billy_Built Make sure your lifters are OK...
The fact that the one valve crashed during a hard pull, leads me to believe that the lifter pumped up (which means it could happen again!), spring fatigue -
I still have doubts that it bound up due to clearance issues...
I have, however, been known to have been wrong in the past...
Good luck.
@@dannoyes4493 highly unlikely right? In my years I've never heard of anyone having this problem honestly. However, I bought some small bore gauges for all this now. Turns out the tolerance was wayy tighter than it needs to be. Making it extremely probable the valve actually bound up. To top it off being an exhaust valve it sees considerably more heat. Next video..
@@Billy_Built Roger That.
Eh so aftermarket valves geeeez OEM top always 💯 u plan spending more money agian other than just fixing the valve?
Man 😭 repeating the whole process once again good luck tho
Do u know why it did that?
Yeah I put my thoughts on how it happened at the end.
Build it, break it, fix it ^_^
Also the Devil is real and he truly doesn’t want you to do well but you will overcome and the Z will be incredible.
Billy, did I happen to mention the valve that dropped on me was the same valve? What cam are you running? Are they the JWT 500's by chance?
That's very odd. They are! I'd honestly say it's just sheer coincidence.
Hmm, I wonder.. Even with calipers, trying to measure the exact diameter of the lobe is not easy as it keeps slipping. I finally put the cam in a padded vise to hold it steady. What I got was 1.440 inches, but as I said it's not easy to get an exact measurement due to the shape of the lobe. @@Billy_Built
That's racing you fig break and you repeat
19:17 Or a 2 stroke
Some had reed halves! Completely different. But valves nonetheless😎
Damn I would have been crushed!
Did you lap the valves before install?
Yup. That's what I was saying where I thought I could feel it out as I was lapping them.
Could it had jumped a tooth or two and that's why it hit?
Would have hit all the valves on that cam and I doubled checked timing before removing the belt.
@Billy_Built That should definitely be the case but I've seen some wierd things before. You are correct though the chances of it being so close to not hitting that it only hits 1 valve based on variances are basically impossible.
With that said, is it possible the lifter bucket got wedged? I know that on the VG the lifters are kind of shallow and kind of have a "piston slap" effect where they could start to angle slighlty and wedge into the cylinder head lifer guide wall. If that happens it can make a valve stick open and get hit by the piston.