Motorized Drill Press Table
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- I added a motor to my drill press table to bring it up and down with a push of a button
Motor: www.amazon.com... New Source: www.amazon.com...
Coupling: www.amazon.com...
Switch: www.amazon.com...
Power Brick: www.amazon.com...
3D Printed Parts: www.prusaprint...
As a machinist, I'm constantly fatigued from slightly raising my drill press table up and down every few hours, this would save me literally seconds per day! seconds!
Great Idea!
I've been trying to build a drill press table for a couple weeks now.
Every time I'm about to get started, I stumble on a Bigger - Better - Faster way to build one.
I just ordered all the parts last night to extend Both Cranks to the front.
Now I see this video.
Looks like I have a return to Amazon & a
New Order with electric motor coming😅
The cleanest and simplest lift table I’ve seen on a drill press yet, very nicely done!!
You got me at "Could have extended handle, but, thats not cool, we like cool".
Bravo sir. Ingenious
Hi Josh
Great design and thanks for sharing. I need to build this for my drill press which is so hard to wind up and down. Mostly because I have a set of drawers attached.
Worth a subscription and a like!
Regards - James - ONE HANDED MAKER
A power window motor out of a junkyard would be plenty of torque and cheap
Oh, heck yeah!!! Brilliant!!!!
Great video. Really shows the benefit of having a 3D printer….
Josh thank you sooo much! I finally completed this project on my very heavy drill press table thanks to you! I love it!
Cristy17, hello.
I know this posting was done 2 years ago but I am in the process of TRYING to motorize the drill table on my Delta 70-200, with a heavy 22" sq. cast iron table.
You said you had a heavy table, did you use all of the parts listed, what power supply did you use ?
Thanks for your time.
"I'm ssssooo lost" !
@@grevillebalzarini3684 Hi. I built my table. I did the "XY axis" so it's heavy but not sure if its heavier than your wrought iron table. In the comments of the You Tube video the creator listed everything you need. It was a fun build. I wouldn't say it was easy but not too difficult either.
Looks great, I have an extra Ford window motor that’s been waiting to be reused. Thanks for the vid
Great build I have already bought the motor and already have the power supply and momentary up and down switch
After watching this video I also motorised my drillpress and it works great.
That's awesome!! I use it way more than I ever thought I would!
Looks great. Thanks for the perfect idea. I have to remember that if I rebuild my drill press table some day🙂
Great work. Copied with a chain drive and motor 90 degrees so it's more compact.
Great job Josh. Such a nice upgrade.
This is really clever, i'm going to look for similar parts here in Australia and give it a go. Cheers mate! 👍
Let us know what you find mate! Other Aussies need to know!
finally, youtube shows me your channel. thanks for making this. its beaut, and I have the same drill.
Bought the same motor as you did, mine needs a twist on the shaft to get it to run full speed just setting on the bench not turning anything. May have to send it back. I like your work o the drill press and the video. Thank you.
Yeah, sounds like a bad motor. I'd ask for another one. If it doesn't spin freely without a load, snow ball's chance it will spin with one. Glad you enjoyed it!
Epic mate I’m having the same problem phone this was researching definitely going to give it a go thanks for sharing
Awesome work mate!! Will give it a shot too.
Great idea and implementation! I don't understand why this is not standard on drill presses...or at least an option.
Dean, I agree 100%. Initially I thought this would be 'cool' or nice to have, now I would argue it is a necessity! I was just using it last night at had several different sized items to put some holes in. I thought, this would be a PITA to manually crank this everytime I need to switch positions
This was a great idea. Thank you for doing the leg work on motor specs. Knowing the ballpark is awesome. I would have been guessing just like you. One thing I might suggest is clocking the motor 90 degrees so it's more compact up under the table. That is what I'll be doing on my drill press anyhow.
IMHO... straight up and down gives you the option of tilting the table without interference.
I'm in the process of TRYING to get my table motorized and mine is parallel to the column.
@@grevillebalzarini3684 I don't understand what you mean. With this design, mounting the motor to part of the table that rotates, you have no option to tilt the table regardless of how the motor is mounted to it. Clocking 90 here still makes it more compact and costs you no function.
To be able to still use your tilt function, you would need to mount the motor to the portion of the table that traverses up and down the column where it doesn't rotate. So, motor and switch on the part the table that traverses up and down the column. And then whatever table you want to have on your press, including the one it came with. That is what I ended up doing and used the drill press table I already built.
I don't tilt my table anyhow. I find it cumbersome and not repeatable. I have it locked at dead 90 degrees to the quill and I don't mess with it. I use the Woodpeckers Duax when I need angled holes. Which has the added bonuses of being more repeatable and providing more ease in accuracy.
@@StoneyMeyerhoeffer Thanks for the reply.
My motor, the same design as the posting, is all mounted to the Gear Box of the Drill Press Lift System.
It is out of the way of the Table be tilted.
I'm not sure how to post pictures then I could show you what I have done.
@@grevillebalzarini3684 That is what I said to do. The gear box is the "part of the table that traverses the column" My point is that my comments about clocking the motor were specific to his design.
@@StoneyMeyerhoeffer My misunderstanding, sorry.
"if you can't make it perfect, at least make it adjustable" Jer Schmidt
Very helpful, Josh. Thank you very much!
Awesome video. Greatly appreciated. I wish I had the knowledge to pull this off on my drill press.
excellent work!
exactly what I was looking for thanks.
Alternative motor source for cheapskates. Automotive window motor. Junkyard / eBay. Not sure if the speed is adequate, but they are plenty strong.
Also, the key on the motor shaft is probably removable. Tap it with a drift punch and hammer and it will slide out of the slot. I see you have already solved the problem, so this more just an FYI. Then your original coupler would have worked.
Great job!
In this table except of crank, there is clamp screw to tighten the table to post once desire height is set. It also protects the table from moving sidewise and vibrating during the drilling. Where you lost this clamp?
That`s kool. I like kool. you like kool. everyone likes kool. I feel kool.
The motor would look better if it was mounted horizontal under the table instead or vertical, but that doesn't change functionality, just visually lol, otherwise this is a perfectly done project.
You're right! It would definitely make it a lower profile. I'm not sure if there was a particular reason I went vertical
@@JoshIlles i was only thinking if you went to full down travel, would it hit the motor or run out of travel on the strip of gear down the side? Either way it wouldn't take much to rotate it lol. Still an awesome idea and execution.
Use a old cordless screwdriver or drill, they have torque to. Use rubber hose/flex drive.
I enjoyed this way too much. And why do you only have 185 subscribers?!?!
Thanks for the kind words! Hopefully I can create more than one video a year in the future 🤣. Knowing people watch and enjoy is certainly motivation!
Nice good job 👏 👍
I have this same motor. you can take a chisel to the keyway on the motor shaft and gently tap it out.
Is that the 160rpm motor?
Thanks for your time!
Great video. If you google "cutting a keyway with a broach" you will see the proper, and expensive way to cut the keyway. Requires tooling and an arbor press, and also expensive to do just one. I would do the same way you did.
Yeah, I've seen how they're cut, but for the soft metal the coupler had, the dremel seemed like the easiest method to get it 80% correct. For the application (some could argue the motorized table is unnecessary), it was more than good enough!
@@JoshIlles you can just take a chisel and gently tap it out. it's a semi-circle when it come off. It took me 1/2 a second and two gentle taps. no cutting involved.
Is that the 160rpm motor?
The link you show has a few different options to choose from.
Thanks again!
This is a nice design. But my table is heavy steel and I have a 2 axis mill table on top of that, and a vice on top of that. Very heavy. I haven’t thought of a good design for a stable and functional table. But I would like a motorized up down.
My table rotates around the main vertical pillar. It has a lock, but doesn’t seem to work well. So my table is always clocking. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul
Combine this with an automatic clamp and it'll be fantastic! I like the idea of the motorized table, even tho I don't need it, but having to reach back there to deal with the clamp anyway kinda kills the allure of the motor for me.
Honestly, I don't ever clamp it and I don't have many issues. If you haven't already, Marius Hornberger just released an awesome video on his drill press upgrades that include an auto clamp. His stuff is next next level.
@@JoshIlles After I posted my comment I thought; hmmm, is there even a need to clamp? The 'rules' say you should, but realistically it shouldn't matter. Thanks, and thanks for telling me about Marius's video.
Pretty cool..!
Awesome! You got my subscription. Please post your files, or put them up on ThingVerse.
I'm currently raising and lowering with a "drill driver" and a 90 degree adapter, but I like your integrated approach much better.
Added the link to the video description and also available below. I uploaded all the files I could find. Unfortunatley, I couldn't find the template used to route out the gap for the switch box.
www.prusaprinters.org/prints/138913-motorized-drill-press-switch-box
@@JoshIlles Thank you!
Thanks!
Really Nice
hi Josh watch your great video but having great difficulty on ordering the correct parts is there any way you have any details on the motor the switch and the couplers where you got them and part numbers Maybe Thank you
Esse motor é de alto ou baixo torque
Genius!
Great idea and video! The speed on the second motor looked much better, but they is without a load besides the table. That’s a good size drill press, have you tried various weights to see what a decent load limit it on that motor? Now I want to start finding things to add motors to! Thanks.
Can you suggest a new power supply? Your link is no longer working...
Super Duper Josh, thank you, The link for the motor is unavailable , Josh, any suggestions on a comparable, (I'm not very knowledgeable on
motors)?
I couldn't find the exact 24V 160RPM motor. I was able to find a 100 RPM 12V motor: www.amazon.com/Makermotor-Shaft-Reversible-Electric-Motor/dp/B0765KZ3TJ/
It will be a little slower and will need a 12V power supply instead of a 24V power supply. Generally, you can google "24V gear motor" and look for one at a similar speed with a power greater than or equal to about 80 watts. To find out what size power supply you need, take the power of the motor (80W) and divide it by the voltage (12V) and that will give you the current (6.67A). Add 20% (~8A) and look for a power supply that can output at least that much current.
Awesome idea! I was going to convert a spare standup desk to a drill press table for the same purpose, but this would be way easier. Was there a functional reason to hog out a hole for the switch box in the front as opposed to just mounting it on the bottom or was that just for aesthetics?
No functional reason, just thought it looked better!
The motor for which you provided the link is currently unavailable. Can you recommend an alternative? Thanks.
Did a search of Amazon, eBay and googled it. eBay sellers were out of stock at the time I bought, but Walmart of all places had exactly what is described. And at the best price I found. DC24volt, 160RPM. for $59 free delivery.
Just finishing up my install and will post a video in the next day or so.
www.walmart.com/ip/Yaegoo-DC24V-80W-160RPM-Reversible-Worm-Gear-Motor-Reversible-Electric-Gear-Motor-High-Torque-Speed-Reducing-Electric-Gearbox-Motor/637383349
Very informative!
Josh Very Cool and you made me want it.......So which coupler did you use?
Looking in my Amazon cart, I had two from around that time. I believe this is the right one though! It's easy enough to measure the two shaft diameters with calipers and find the right one. www.amazon.com/dp/B078VS9BVH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
do you still use the table lock on the left side of the drill press or is the torque of the motor sufficient to hold the table in place?? Thanks, Gary
The rack and pinon keeps the table more or less in place. The motor doesn't need to constantly hold it up. That being said, I will occasionally use the table lock to prevent it from spinning. If I clamp on a fence and need to make repeat holes, I will clamp it down. I just have to be careful to unclamp it before I try and move the table.
josh thats slick,,i think im going to check it out and order me one,,,,your drill press seems kinda loud,,,i have the wen 4225 and its no where near as loud,,,but i was thinking about selling it and getting the one you have,,
Great idea and execution. I'll have to do this when my new drill press arrives. What 3D printer and software are you using... you clearly integrate it into your work well. Thanks!
I have a Prusa i3 MK3S, I use PrusaSlicer and for modeling, I use SolidWorks
Brilliant. No criticism, but what about a stepper motor?
Stepper motor could work, but you would need to get a fairly beefy one for the required torque. Plus you'd need a stepper driver which adds cost and complexity... Generally when I try to make things too feature rich and complex, they never cross the finish line. I believe for this application a standard gear motor is the right tool for the job
I'll admit it. This table build gave me a chubby.
Freaking brilliant!
Very clever design. Very clean. The best I have found!!
Could we get details on the motor you found? Have a link?
Thank you!
Thanks for watching! I edited to video to include the links to the motor, coupling, and switch in the video description! I also included the specs for the motor around 2:34!
www.amazon.com/uxcell-Reversible-Reducing-Electric-Motor-JCF63R/dp/B0732FFSGS/ref=sr_1_5?
People had a hard time finding the original one linked. Here is a new source for an identical motor (updated the description as well)
Exactly what I want to do to my drill press! Perfect timing too! Can you also let me know the power brick info for Amazon please? Genius! Thanks!
Just updated the description with it.
Thank you Josh! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Voice so low makes my speakers crackle.. lol
Josh: A QUICK CLARIFICATION: What is the deal on the locking mechanism on the side of the drill press column. It appears you do not have one. Is it even necessary given that you attach the lifting mechanism to the drill press table?
Ron, I have one, I just generally leave it unlocked. I haven't experienced any problems
Great I will do this as well. @@JoshIlles
Josh, I tried your system for my Delta 70-200 Drill Press and the motor will not lift the Table.
The actual motor is not available right now so I went with the next size up and went with a 6 amp power supply.
Any thoughts on this ?
My Table is 22" sq., by approximately 1.25" high, with the usual cut outs and oil trough.
I'm lost, not sure if I need a larger PS, or is the motor just too small for the application ?
Sorry to hit you with these questions but I'm ssssoooo lost.
Thanks for your time and the video.
Not sure what motor you have. If it's the same style but if it's faster (higher RPM) it might not have enough torque. It's hard/ impossible to say the motor you need based on those specs as the motor power requires depends on your table weight, the friction between the rack and pinion (gear that makes the table go up and down), and your desired speed. That being said, I'm sure you've already checked, but it always helps as a sanity check to make sure the table is unlocked 🤣
You can check if your power supply is not beefy enough if you have a multimeter. Set it to check voltage and put it on the output of the power supply, it should read 12/24V, whatever the power supply is rated at. Then start the motor, if it dips significantly, then the power supply might not be enough. If you check the current on the motor name plate, there should be a rating, it might be named FLA (full load amps), I'd pick a power supply based on that and double the current as head room (ex 5a motor current = 10a power supply) just to be safe.
Hope some of this information might help, good luck, I'll answer any questions I can 👍
@@JoshIlles I got the same style you posted but the next one up because the one you posted was not available. I'm starting to think the PS is the problem.
Thanks for all of the info, great stuff.
I will check the voltage drop and see what I get.
The amperage for the motor states 4 amps, my PS is 6 amp... just might be the PS.
Thanks for taking time to reply to my question.
As I said, " I'm LOST " !
@@JoshIlles I thought I had replied before this to your posting but just incase.
First, thanks for the information, just what I needed.
I just ordered a 15 amp power supply and it should be here tomorrow, 5/16/23. I'm hoping it will spin the motor at a reasonable speed, if I remember correctly the rpm for the motor was either 160 or 180.
Thanks again for the info, thanks for the great posting.
It will have taken me even longer to gather the correct parts, at least I had a good starting point.
GOD Bless
Hello, Josh and others reading this posting.
I was having a problem where the motor that Josh had suggested, wouldn't operate my Drill Press Table. I couldn't find a Power Supply (PS) like the one suggested so I purchased a PS with 50% more Amps than needed, but I wasn't correct in my power needs, what is needed is something two or three times the needed amperage of the motor.
I have, at Josh's suggestion, made a few electrical measurements, Power Drop when the motor is under load, and the current draw when running.
As it turns out, with the electrical measurements and Josh's suggestions I purchased a 15 amp, 24 volt PS... Drum Roll please... The motor operates my table, happy joy,,, a little slower than I wanted but it will do until this motor decides to say good night.
My Table is a 20+ inch Cast iron Unit, heavy is the main underlying pressure that slows this Table down to where I'm thinking MORE TORQUE !
Thanks to Josh Illes and the others who made a suggest.
It is working and I am happy with this mod, again thanks Josh.
I tried a Power Supply with three times the amperage and it worked out.
It probably could use some more amperage but for now it is working and not getting hot.
My granddaughter thinks I'm a wizard setting it up... so thanks for the help !
You should make more videos
Thanks! I plan to, I am working on making them more frequently!
nice. what do you do with the tight lock in the back?
I just leave it loose, I rarely find I need it to not swivel
i swear every cool video causes out of stock issues with the items used when the first 10 people do it.
I'm honored you think my video has that much influence 🤣.
Just bought the parts, gonna give it a try. would you be willing to sell the switch enclosure and power supply brackets you made?
Peter, I would. But unfortunately I am in the middle of relocating so my printer is packed up for the foreseeable future. I'll try and see if I can upload the files to an online repo and maybe you could order from an online service?
Ok, so with all you electrical engineers, could someone explain how do you wire this thing up? 1. need motor got it, 2. need power supply, got it, 3 need switch OK, now how do they all connect? and do you cut the plug off the power supply? I'm sure you all understand before ya spend 110 bucks on the "Stuff" you wanna be sure you know how to connect it all. Said motor is now 75
bucks. Thanks
@craigmayhan8620 The switch is a double pole, double throw (DPDT); you use each "throw" (position up vs. down) to change the direction the current flows through the motor. Essentially you're swapping which lead is positive and negative. Here is a schematic diagram from digikey forum.digikey.com/t/polarity-reversal-using-a-dpdt-switch/626. Here is another blog post telling how to use a DPDT switch to change motor direction www.robotroom.com/DPDT-Bidirectional-Motor-Switch.html
@@JoshIlles Yes, the switch on off on reverses the direction of motor, not the issue, what wires go where, went to the listed sites, all Greek to me. 2 wires coming out of motor, (DC ) power supply, converts AC to DC, wires coming out of power supply 2, with a plug. Cut off plug? split wire and connect to ?Where, switch? Motor? alligator clips on end and just test connection?, don't want to burn up a 75 dollar motor. all wires go to switch? (have wired up electric trains, is this the same concept ? Thanks
Beautiful job but not everyone has a 3D printer, bro. Every time you said 3D printer, you killed a little more than the last time you said 3D printer.
Great idea I like it, but you put it on a shitty tool, Now upgrade your Drill press.
Hallo Josh,
auf der Suche nach Anregungen für einen neuen Bohrmaschinen-Tisch bin ich bei Deinem Video angekommen. Herzlichen Dank für die tolle Idee das Heben und Senken einen Scheibenwischermotor erledigen zu lassen. Inzwischen habe ich die Teile zusammen, werde aber noch einen Regler einbauen, an dem ich die Ausgangsspannung/Geschwindigkeit noch regeln kann. Erste Skizzen und werde ich in Kürze auf meinem Blog - rudi-ac.blogspot.com - stellen und können gerne kopiert werden.
Hello Josh,
I came across your video while looking for suggestions for a new drill table. Thank you very much for the great idea of having a windshield wiper motor do the lifting and lowering. In the meantime I have the parts together, but I will also install a regulator on which I can still regulate the output voltage. I will post the first sketches on my blog shortly and you are welcome to copy them.
Greetings from Aachen
Rudi