A heads up for anyone not familiar with end mills: they come in "center cutting" and "non center cutting" varieties. You'll need the center cutting variety to be able to plunge with it.
This is a good tip, I will say, the vast majority of end mills in this size range are all center cutting. Non center cutting really comes into play in larger sizes.
they also come in a plunge cutting configuration called a Drill/Mill, very handy for plunging in and then milling, or chamfering an edge, but they do not leave a flat bottom.....due to the angle of the flutes on the end.....usually about 90 degree included angle
Thanks for the tip, Matt!:) The following is just a side-note, no fear-mongering, just a little smalltalk out of the engineering pocket:) Use it with your brain and not with your heart:P I think it is not worth mentioning that a drill press is named that way because of a reason and that there is that other mysterious thing one can vaguely imagine by your comment: The Milling Machine. The drill press is built for maximum forces towards the axial force of the drilling mechanism, meaning downwards, you drilling in the workpiece. The milling machine including its tool-holding can handle also radial forces, f.e. those in the X and Y direction of the milling machines table. This different operation area is achieved by a different design, other mounting mechanism and different bearings. You should look up exactly what bearing types your drilling press is equipped with when you are trying to "abuse" it as a milling machine. In doubt: Ask an expert. Or as we Internet-Folk like to say: Who cares? She needs new bearings anyway ... since years! Hehehe Have fun making!:)))
This has got to be one of the most straightforward no crap woodworking videos I've watched in a long time. Thank you for a really sweet into the point demo of an awesome technique. New subscriber for sure!
Yet another incredible pro tip! Ordered several different end mills and have used this technique multiple times with great results. Most recently used for installing a full mortise box lock in a jewelry box. Thank you!
This is about the coolest wood working video I’ve seen in a long time. The idea of using a sharp pointed bit to center the cut is really great. Now, im. going to fix that old end table. It’s about fifty years old and needs an overhaul.
Mike your woodworking skills speaks for itself but it’s your way of explaining or teaching the techniques that is your true gift when I qualified as a cabinet maker in Ireland many moons ago my teacher taught like you nice reminder every video I watch of yours brings me back there 🙌🏻
When working with really small pieces, its difficult and time consuming to clamp the piece in place. The method avoids that. This isn't the best way to cut mortises, its just another method to use when appropriate.
@@MikeFarrington I don't know if you are aware that there was some kind of spam (You won something! Cal this phone number.....) sent to me right after I posted my question. I warned youtube about it.
Great video! I was a machinist for more than 15 years and I have journeyman's card. Worked at an aerospace company using steels and aluminum as well as titanium. So I'm very familiar with the end mills. We called the roughing end mills "hog mills"because they would hog out tremendous amount of material and then we'd follow up with the finish end mills for a smoother finish. This was all done on CNC four and five axis machines. I often wondered how the Mills would work for wood. You have answered that question in my mind. And now I have to try it, I like it. Thanks for the video.
Mike, you're giving away my/our secrets! I use my milling machine for A LOT of woodworking projects. Clamping the workpiece to the table and moving the table in the X & Y axis yields precision cuts every time. You are correct, too, in that a drill press is designed for plunging rather than lateral cutting. The milling machine does both....
20+ years using an overarm pin router, often mortising with it. Like you, I much prefer looking at and having full view of the cutting action. We used one inch mills occasionally but most often hss 3/8" upcut spiral bits. I've never seen these bits nor this technique before, thank you! Retired now with just a home shop, I'm sure I'll be using this technique soon! Most woodworking videos I've seen are done by 'performing' amateur woodworkers, often with little experience and talent. Many of these guys recommend "inexperienced" ideas along with "inexperienced" and frequently dangerous practices. You're one of a handful who are not. Thank you for sharing and posting!
This process works great on a milling machine too! When I lived in central Denver I constructed three wooden gates, and I clamped the stiles to the milling machine table to cut the mortises. You can use the same process to make the tenons. Thanks for the video.
Great alternative for Testool loose tenon joinery. When it comes to green tools, no one wants a tucked up tortoise. Thanks for the gems and insight as usual.
I tend to gravitate towards hand tools. But I have nothing bad to say about this method- I could see myself taking advantage of the technique. Very well presented. Thanks.
Good stuff. I've done drill-press mortising with a twist drill bit, forstner bit, and a router bit. I've even cut grooves in aluminum with a router bit in the drill press with good results. Never thought about using an end mill.
Square corners are high stress concentration points were cracks and trars propegate from.. Rounded corners allow for less stress concentration and better stress flow of internal stresses.
Thanks Mike. For a hobbyist like myself, using one bit and spend a bit more time on the mortise (I'm retired so time is not a factor) rather than buying another tool that, for me, does not get used much it a BIG WIN. Thanks! !! !!!
Thanks, there were some great ideas here, and since I'm about to need to make some tenons, and I just happen to have some end mills, I'll give this a try!
I want to get into mortising but not buying the expensive setups to do it. I will be getting a set of these drill bits for my drill press. So glad I ran into this video.
I purchased Mike's kumiko lamp course on wood whisperer, it's really great. One of the best online courses I've taken. I would recommend that course to any woodworker, even those who don't have a specific interest in kumiko (like me), because there are so many insights into his process, and it is loaded with brilliant tips and techniques, just like his YT videos. I'm pretty sure, for instance, that the topic of this video was touched on in that kumiko course. Anyway, thanks for making the videos, Mike. It's always exciting when you a drop a new one and I know I'm not alone thinking that.
Thank you very much for purchasing the course. I used this method in that course. I did so because its very difficult to mortise those tiny legs using other methods. Coming up with a good clamping solution just takes too long.
Thanks, Mike... great tip. I think the secret sauce to your approach is the direct, intuitive layout-to-mortise process. Jigs sometimes require maths (1/2 distance, bushing offsets, etc.) and then on top of that, your cutter is upside-down, and hand-held. This approach takes out the math, and as you stated, gives you more control over the cut. I did tuck away the drill press notes in other comments for protecting bearings, etc., but really this is what end mills are made to do so with knowledge and caution, I'd definitely do this.
I would suggest the bearing comments from others are a result of them not watching the video. At no point in this process is a significant side load applied. I'm holding the piece with my thumb, moving it and drilling straight down.
FANTASTIC stuff, Mike. I have been looking at used hollow chisel mortise machines for just such an application. Your method beats that by a long shot, since I don't need a production machine, or a Domino, and the router edge guides are MAJOR sketch.
Used these end mills with my ShopSmith and an x y machinist table that I could clamp to the way tubes. The work peices were held down by screw clamps modified to fit into the dovetail ways in the table. The clamps were from the Multi Router with dovetail blocks added to the bottom of the posts.
I have used end mills in the past but without the results you are getting. My bits were either dull or the wrong type. Your results appear to be excellent.👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2023 and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks for your video. I'm going to try it myself too. I have a metal milling machine with a cross table. I use the same cutter as you. I only use them for metalworking. For wood I use an electric die grinder with wood cutters. I mounted the Die grinder next to the chuck. In this way I can mill wood very accurately with the cross table.
@@MikeFarrington Thank you, I also like being able to see where I'm milling / cutting wood. I also think it would be a cool idea to convert a Sliding Compound Miter Saw into an overarm router.
I also use these bits on my horizontal boring machine. I have a video on restoring the drill press as well as building the fence and storage cabinet. Have a look around my channel page.
@@MikeFarrington Ah! I had watched the drill press restoration video already, but missed the follow up video on the cabinet and fence! Thanks for the pointer
nice summary of the end mill. One thing you did through the entire video, but did not say out loud was work from left to right when using a mill. this is important so the cutting side of the bit is turning towards the fence (just like a router) that way if it grabs the piece is less likely to jump (just like a router), Unless of course you have an Australian drill press, i hear they turn counter clockwise... or something Australian does.
Great overview, never tried it this way on wood but I've used the drill press as a router before. Do note my old Delta DP and probably yours has a quill lock to hold it in place - most modern drill presses don't have that.
Mine has the ability to have a quill lock, but I don't use it. For this process its certainly not needed as material removal is happening in the up down orientation.
@@MikeFarrington Right, but for that lateral clean up pass at the bottom of the hole, quill down to the depth stop, then lock the quill and you don't have to hold the lever.
I've often wondered whether I could get away with using a table saw for the kind of "cleaning" action you show at about 6:45 - 7:05. I'm going to take your vid as a sample for the "yes" answer. Taking it slow and steady. Thanks!! (I'm about to take a whack at my first semi-serious mortise-and-tenon joints, so I'm bingeing lots of how-to vids. Best thing I'm realizing is that there is roughly a metric ton of ways to accomplish these tasks.)
Yes, many ways, most of them good. The key with the cleaning trick is to have a good grip. Use gloves or lick you finger for more traction. Go slow until you get the feel.
I've seen some non woodworkers doing woodworking (like Adam Savage) with these with their machining tools and never considered putting them in a drill press. Clever idea!
I am finishing up the wood whisperer guild lamp build and this was in that project. I will say the quality of the drill press makes a big difference. I found my not so great drill press had the bit wandering just a little bit even going slow.
Thank you. I agree, a decent quality drill press is required. However, I am wondering if there isn't an issue with your drill press? Or is it very very small? I was able to perform this technique on my last drill press which was a piece of junk, but I had it tuned up and dialed in. Feel free to send me an email, maybe we can get it worked out.
You can also reduce deflection by not bringing the quill down-- raise the table instead. This only really works if you've already made the plunge, though, or if you're going around the outside of something.
This is something that is old I did that 20 years ago I knew that the Edmil yet we’re good for anything and Wood. It was way back in the 80s but you got a good point. It’s a lot easier if you just gonna do a few.
Drill presses typically have chucks attached via Morse taper, which is not designed for side loading. Don't be surprised if your drill chuck falls out!
@@MikeFarrington Most of us have had the be jesus scared out of us regarding side loading our drill chucks. Your method clearly doesn't rely on side loading the bit. I'm looking forward to trying this out as soon as I can get some bits. Thanks for your clarification that appears obvious in your video, but some of us appreciate that reinforcement.
Great technique, per usual. I've cut timber frame mortises & tenons on my vertical mill for precise fit-up. I'm sure pure machinists cringe, but I believe in making the most of all my tools regardless of original intent.
Yeah I have a bridgeport mill and huge 20"swing metal lathe that I'm thinking about using for a lot of wood working operations. I got the equipment that most people would dismiss as not usable for wood working, but I see something that's superior in many ways to wood working tools. My metal lathe even has a hydraulic tracer attachment on it that I can use to reproduce any profile I want on a wood turning. I could produce 100s of wood turned pieces and they'd all be identical to within .005". I gotta figure out the dust collection scenario for these machines to keep the machines somewhat dust free.
I do really like this set of tips. Do you actually like the extra length on the drill press provided by the morse taper section? I had one on my drill press and decided to get rid of the morse taper on the chuck and the morse taper on the press. and just use the jacobs taper on each of them. I had to find a chuck that actually worked though ended up being the older JT33 size. I have much more room to drill with the press now and it seems more rigid being much shorter.
Since you said to post fears I'll oblige. I'm afraid the government puts small tracking and recording devices in small fruits and vegetables. For surveillance, of course. Phew. Good to get that off my chest! Thanks for the content and therapy, Mike.
I like keeping a cheap metal magnetic parts tray from harbor freight attached to most of my floor tools. Makes 'put this somewhere real quick' a lot easier.
Love it! I should think that if you add a suite cross slide holder, you could make as if you are on a mill! Shorten up the quill depth to make it more ridged, and just done go bonkers on it: your plunge technique is likely an importantly part of making this work to keep you Morse tepaer from loosening. But I think this can give Precise results hard to get otherwise. . .
A heads up for anyone not familiar with end mills: they come in "center cutting" and "non center cutting" varieties. You'll need the center cutting variety to be able to plunge with it.
This is a good tip, I will say, the vast majority of end mills in this size range are all center cutting. Non center cutting really comes into play in larger sizes.
I know here in the UK at least they’re generally called a slot drill
they also come in a plunge cutting configuration called a Drill/Mill, very handy for plunging in and then milling, or chamfering an edge, but they do not leave a flat bottom.....due to the angle of the flutes on the end.....usually about 90 degree included angle
Please, source of supply for roughing 4 fluted centering End Mill??
Thanks for the tip, Matt!:) The following is just a side-note, no fear-mongering, just a little smalltalk out of the engineering pocket:) Use it with your brain and not with your heart:P
I think it is not worth mentioning that a drill press is named that way because of a reason and that there is that other mysterious thing one can vaguely imagine by your comment: The Milling Machine. The drill press is built for maximum forces towards the axial force of the drilling mechanism, meaning downwards, you drilling in the workpiece. The milling machine including its tool-holding can handle also radial forces, f.e. those in the X and Y direction of the milling machines table. This different operation area is achieved by a different design, other mounting mechanism and different bearings. You should look up exactly what bearing types your drilling press is equipped with when you are trying to "abuse" it as a milling machine. In doubt: Ask an expert. Or as we Internet-Folk like to say: Who cares? She needs new bearings anyway ... since years! Hehehe
Have fun making!:)))
“I like to look down on my work pieces” is absolute gold.
Ha! Thank you.
I like the "low pressure" aspect and ease of going slow. Great job on the drill press BTW!
Thank you very much.
great idea presented in a short, concise format. Excellent work.
Much appreciated!
Magswitch incorporated stop block is genius! Thanks for the content Mike!
Thank you.
This has got to be one of the most straightforward no crap woodworking videos I've watched in a long time. Thank you for a really sweet into the point demo of an awesome technique. New subscriber for sure!
Glad it was helpful!
Mike’s pretty cool. You’ll like his videos and ingenuity.
@@Whitebassonly Thank you, that is very nice to say.
I thought the same thing Andrew.
@@MikeFarrington are these steel milling bits?
Yet another incredible pro tip! Ordered several different end mills and have used this technique multiple times with great results. Most recently used for installing a full mortise box lock in a jewelry box. Thank you!
That is totally great to hear. Yes, this method is perfect for mortising locks, or hinges.
This is about the coolest wood working video I’ve seen in a long time. The idea of using a sharp pointed bit to center the cut is really great. Now, im. going to fix that old end table. It’s about fifty years old and needs an overhaul.
Thanks 👍
Mike your woodworking skills speaks for itself but it’s your way of explaining or teaching the techniques that is your true gift when I qualified as a cabinet maker in Ireland many moons ago my teacher taught like you nice reminder every video I watch of yours brings me back there 🙌🏻
Wow, thanks
Amazed that the guy with so many routers enjoys making this on a drill press. Thank you for sharing.
Greetings from São Paulo - Brazil.
When working with really small pieces, its difficult and time consuming to clamp the piece in place. The method avoids that. This isn't the best way to cut mortises, its just another method to use when appropriate.
@@MikeFarrington
I don't know if you are aware that there was some kind of spam (You won something! Cal this phone number.....) sent to me right after I posted my question. I warned youtube about it.
@@mfcosi Thank you. I am aware and working on reporting/removing.
Great video! I was a machinist for more than 15 years and I have journeyman's card. Worked at an aerospace company using steels and aluminum as well as titanium. So I'm very familiar with the end mills. We called the roughing end mills "hog mills"because they would hog out tremendous amount of material and then we'd follow up with the finish end mills for a smoother finish. This was all done on CNC four and five axis machines. I often wondered how the Mills would work for wood. You have answered that question in my mind. And now I have to try it, I like it. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for sharing, good stuff.
Mike, you're giving away my/our secrets! I use my milling machine for A LOT of woodworking projects. Clamping the workpiece to the table and moving the table in the X & Y axis yields precision cuts every time. You are correct, too, in that a drill press is designed for plunging rather than lateral cutting. The milling machine does both....
A mill would be a great addition to a wood shop.
@@MikeFarrington you just have to keep it clean and oil it a lot. The ways and other sliding surfaces need a film of oil, and wood chips absorb oil 😐
The mag switch on the drill fence is a great idea. Thanks for the content.
Thank you. I have a video on my channel showing how I made the drill press table and fence if you are interested.
20+ years using an overarm pin router, often mortising with it. Like you, I much prefer looking at and having full view of the cutting action. We used one inch mills occasionally but most often hss 3/8" upcut spiral bits. I've never seen these bits nor this technique before, thank you! Retired now with just a home shop, I'm sure I'll be using this technique soon! Most woodworking videos I've seen are done by 'performing' amateur woodworkers, often with little experience and talent. Many of these guys recommend "inexperienced" ideas along with "inexperienced" and frequently dangerous practices. You're one of a handful who are not. Thank you for sharing and posting!
Thank you very much. RUclips is certainly a tornado of competency levels.
This process works great on a milling machine too! When I lived in central Denver I constructed three wooden gates, and I clamped the stiles to the milling machine table to cut the mortises.
You can use the same process to make the tenons.
Thanks for the video.
A mill would make a great wood working tool.
Great alternative for Testool loose tenon joinery. When it comes to green tools, no one wants a tucked up tortoise. Thanks for the gems and insight as usual.
Ha! Thank you.
Nicely narrated and shot.
Thank you.
I tend to gravitate towards hand tools. But I have nothing bad to say about this method- I could see myself taking advantage of the technique. Very well presented. Thanks.
Thank you.
Good stuff. I've done drill-press mortising with a twist drill bit, forstner bit, and a router bit. I've even cut grooves in aluminum with a router bit in the drill press with good results. Never thought about using an end mill.
Thank you.
You are a fantastic teacher! I'd heard of an end mill, but wasn't quite sure of its purpose. Thanks for showing one in action.
Thank you. This is really not the purpose of an end mill, however it works OK for this operation.
Square corners are high stress concentration points were cracks and trars propegate from.. Rounded corners allow for less stress concentration and better stress flow of internal stresses.
Thank you.
This was very helpful. Thank you for the tip. I use mortise and tenon construction almost exclusively. This is a great alternative. I’ll give it a go.
Good stuff. Thank you.
Thanks Mike. For a hobbyist like myself, using one bit and spend a bit more time on the mortise (I'm retired so time is not a factor) rather than buying another tool that, for me, does not get used much it a BIG WIN. Thanks! !! !!!
Thank you.
Best drill press mortis I've seen yet!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you.
Thanks, there were some great ideas here, and since I'm about to need to make some tenons, and I just happen to have some end mills, I'll give this a try!
Thank you.
I want to get into mortising but not buying the expensive setups to do it. I will be getting a set of these drill bits for my drill press. So glad I ran into this video.
Give this a try. Let me know if it works for you.
I purchased Mike's kumiko lamp course on wood whisperer, it's really great. One of the best online courses I've taken. I would recommend that course to any woodworker, even those who don't have a specific interest in kumiko (like me), because there are so many insights into his process, and it is loaded with brilliant tips and techniques, just like his YT videos. I'm pretty sure, for instance, that the topic of this video was touched on in that kumiko course.
Anyway, thanks for making the videos, Mike. It's always exciting when you a drop a new one and I know I'm not alone thinking that.
Thank you very much for purchasing the course. I used this method in that course. I did so because its very difficult to mortise those tiny legs using other methods. Coming up with a good clamping solution just takes too long.
Next-level-wood-carcass-mutilation. Some of the stuff you share is... wow. Thats all I can say. That mirror-finish on the chisel wiped my whole brain.
Thank you. Gotta have sharp chisels, especially the 1/4".
Thanks, Mike... great tip. I think the secret sauce to your approach is the direct, intuitive layout-to-mortise process. Jigs sometimes require maths (1/2 distance, bushing offsets, etc.) and then on top of that, your cutter is upside-down, and hand-held. This approach takes out the math, and as you stated, gives you more control over the cut. I did tuck away the drill press notes in other comments for protecting bearings, etc., but really this is what end mills are made to do so with knowledge and caution, I'd definitely do this.
I would suggest the bearing comments from others are a result of them not watching the video. At no point in this process is a significant side load applied. I'm holding the piece with my thumb, moving it and drilling straight down.
@@MikeFarrington Agreed!
FANTASTIC stuff, Mike. I have been looking at used hollow chisel mortise machines for just such an application. Your method beats that by a long shot, since I don't need a production machine, or a Domino, and the router edge guides are MAJOR sketch.
If you already have a drill press, this method is worth a try before investing in a different tool.
Great info! We used to use another "fence" parallel to the back fence to keep the stock from moving forward or back during drilling.
That's a great idea!
Amazing how simple this is. Would have never thought of it. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
THAT 1/8" BIT IS ADORABLE!
Ha! So cute.
Neat idea. I wouldn't have thought to use a roughing endmill to do this, I'll have to give this a try!
Thank you.
Thanks Mike , cost effective and quieter! Awesome
Right on!
From Italy : bravo ! 👍
Thank you.
Thanks Mike, I like this method better than what I was using. Also great video, right to the point.
Glad you liked it!
Very handy, well made video, good content and excellent video production.
Much appreciated!
Never thought of using the drill press. Great thinking.
Thank you.
Used these end mills with my ShopSmith and an x y machinist table that I could clamp to the way tubes. The work peices were held down by screw clamps modified to fit into the dovetail ways in the table. The clamps were from the Multi Router with dovetail blocks added to the bottom of the posts.
Sounds neat. Thank you for sharing.
I have used end mills in the past but without the results you are getting. My bits were either dull or the wrong type. Your results appear to be excellent.👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2023 and stay safe.🙂🙂
Try a 4 flute roughing end mill. It will greatly improve your results.
I’m going to try this in my Bridgeport mill. Thanks for the tip!
A bridgeport would make this whole process a lot easier.
Love the drill press magnetic stop block system you have.
Thank you.
Woot! Well done and I'll say, timely with the relative humor!
Thank you.
Who can open up a map and see between one and two... Always a pleasure Mike!
🤔🤔🤔
Ha!
@@tundrawhisperer4821 Its a line from the song Teenage Riot which he mentions in the video and a steady rotation on my Spotify list.
@@Vitulli1970 😁👍🏻
Thanks for your video. I'm going to try it myself too. I have a metal milling machine with a cross table. I use the same cutter as you. I only use them for metalworking. For wood I use an electric die grinder with wood cutters. I mounted the Die grinder next to the chuck. In this way I can mill wood very accurately with the cross table.
That would be a great setup for sure.
@@MikeFarrington Thank you, I also like being able to see where I'm milling / cutting wood.
I also think it would be a cool idea to convert a Sliding Compound Miter Saw into an overarm router.
@@jaapvanklaveren6929 Interesting idea for sure.
Fantastic. Good to see another video and tip. My workshop is slowly filling with jigs and tips from your channel. Still need a drill press though
Thank you.
Very nice. Always look forward to your videos.
Thank you very much!
Awesome easy method! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
This is a genius idea.
Thank you.
Fantastic video, Mike!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love this technique. Have had similar success with end mills on horizontal boring machines. Would love to see a video on your drill press table/fence!
I also use these bits on my horizontal boring machine. I have a video on restoring the drill press as well as building the fence and storage cabinet. Have a look around my channel page.
@@MikeFarrington Ah! I had watched the drill press restoration video already, but missed the follow up video on the cabinet and fence! Thanks for the pointer
First i thought its a video how to destroy your drill press bearings, but you acutally dont do what others do so a good tip 👍
Thanks 👍
This is a super-nifty idea. Thanks!
Glad you like it!
nice summary of the end mill. One thing you did through the entire video, but did not say out loud was work from left to right when using a mill. this is important so the cutting side of the bit is turning towards the fence (just like a router) that way if it grabs the piece is less likely to jump (just like a router), Unless of course you have an Australian drill press, i hear they turn counter clockwise... or something Australian does.
Yeah, that is a good point. Thank you for pointing that out.
What a cool drill press fence!
Thank you.
There are variable flute endmills that help reduce resonant viblration or try 2, 3, 4 or 5 flute endmills.
Yes, I have used 2, 3, and 4, and I've found 4 to be the best. It seems as though 5 flute are only in the larger sizes.
Great overview, never tried it this way on wood but I've used the drill press as a router before. Do note my old Delta DP and probably yours has a quill lock to hold it in place - most modern drill presses don't have that.
Mine has the ability to have a quill lock, but I don't use it. For this process its certainly not needed as material removal is happening in the up down orientation.
@@MikeFarrington Right, but for that lateral clean up pass at the bottom of the hole, quill down to the depth stop, then lock the quill and you don't have to hold the lever.
@@CleaveMountaineering Yup, good idea for sure. Just one of those things, I'm not in the habit.
@4:54 u answered my only question I had ..Thanks for sharing!
Thank you.
I've often wondered whether I could get away with using a table saw for the kind of "cleaning" action you show at about 6:45 - 7:05. I'm going to take your vid as a sample for the "yes" answer. Taking it slow and steady. Thanks!!
(I'm about to take a whack at my first semi-serious mortise-and-tenon joints, so I'm bingeing lots of how-to vids. Best thing I'm realizing is that there is roughly a metric ton of ways to accomplish these tasks.)
Yes, many ways, most of them good. The key with the cleaning trick is to have a good grip. Use gloves or lick you finger for more traction. Go slow until you get the feel.
I've seen some non woodworkers doing woodworking (like Adam Savage) with these with their machining tools and never considered putting them in a drill press. Clever idea!
It's not very good for your drill press and pretty bad for your chuck, but they do work!
This method does not put any additional stress on your chuck.
Excellent idea, I'll have to get an end mill and try it since I don't do many mortices.
Thank you.
Awesome tip Mike, thanks for sharing.
My pleasure.
Cool cool cool. I like the cut of your jib 😀
Thanks 👍
I am finishing up the wood whisperer guild lamp build and this was in that project. I will say the quality of the drill press makes a big difference. I found my not so great drill press had the bit wandering just a little bit even going slow.
Thank you. I agree, a decent quality drill press is required. However, I am wondering if there isn't an issue with your drill press? Or is it very very small? I was able to perform this technique on my last drill press which was a piece of junk, but I had it tuned up and dialed in. Feel free to send me an email, maybe we can get it worked out.
I don’t do M&T but I do occasionally make slots for jigs and projects and this would be a quick setup for slots. Easier than setting up a router.
I use this method for cutting the occasional slot for a jig part. Works great for that.
Great idea and video!
Thanks!
Welcome back
Thank you. Good to be back.
Great tip, Mike. Thanks.
Bill
Thanks for watching!
Great idea!
Thanks for sharing.
You bet!
Great tip Mike! Thanks again for all that you do! 🫡
My pleasure!
Love your vids Mike!
Thank you.
You can also reduce deflection by not bringing the quill down-- raise the table instead. This only really works if you've already made the plunge, though, or if you're going around the outside of something.
My raise and lower on the table isn't accurate enough to do that.
This is something that is old I did that 20 years ago I knew that the Edmil yet we’re good for anything and Wood. It was way back in the 80s but you got a good point. It’s a lot easier if you just gonna do a few.
Thank you.
I been using this for pocket holes but didn’t think of this, great tip
Thank you.
Thanks for the tip! I do a lot of small mortis and tendon joints and your idea would definitely help.
Happy to help!
Centering by using a countersink was a good pointer. 😊
Thank you.
Nice explanation, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Drill presses typically have chucks attached via Morse taper, which is not designed for side loading. Don't be surprised if your drill chuck falls out!
At what point in the process is side loading occurring?
@@MikeFarrington I wondered that too…
The way he set this up, there was very little side loading going on. That cleanup pass couldn't have had any noticeable tool pressure.
@@MikeFarrington Most of us have had the be jesus scared out of us regarding side loading our drill chucks. Your method clearly doesn't rely on side loading the bit. I'm looking forward to trying this out as soon as I can get some bits. Thanks for your clarification that appears obvious in your video, but some of us appreciate that reinforcement.
What exactly is side loading?
Great video, could really help me out, thanks so much.
Glad it helped!
Great and amazing idea thanks for sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks Mike.
My pleasure.
thank you went straight to amazon per your link
Thank you very much.
I love your videos, Mike.
Thank you.
very cool, thank you for sharing this technique
My pleasure!
Great idea.
Thanks!
Great technique, per usual. I've cut timber frame mortises & tenons on my vertical mill for precise fit-up. I'm sure pure machinists cringe, but I believe in making the most of all my tools regardless of original intent.
Thank you.
Yeah I have a bridgeport mill and huge 20"swing metal lathe that I'm thinking about using for a lot of wood working operations. I got the equipment that most people would dismiss as not usable for wood working, but I see something that's superior in many ways to wood working tools. My metal lathe even has a hydraulic tracer attachment on it that I can use to reproduce any profile I want on a wood turning. I could produce 100s of wood turned pieces and they'd all be identical to within .005". I gotta figure out the dust collection scenario for these machines to keep the machines somewhat dust free.
You make me want to try to mortise and tenon joint now.
Is that a good thing?
Nice vid. Short and to the point.
You have a new sub.
Thanks for the sub!
Just scheduled time to catch up on my ww videos and Boom, the Mighty Mike Farrington alert appears! I need to find a good song for this experience.
Ha! Thank you. Well I suggest one in the video.
This is a great idea, I'm going to have to try it out. Do you think it cuts consistently enough for a DIY floating tenon system?
If your drill press is tuned up and you go slow, yes.
Thanks, Mike!
You're welcome!
Excellent , gracias por compartirlo .
Thank you.
I do really like this set of tips. Do you actually like the extra length on the drill press provided by the morse taper section? I had one on my drill press and decided to get rid of the morse taper on the chuck and the morse taper on the press. and just use the jacobs taper on each of them. I had to find a chuck that actually worked though ended up being the older JT33 size. I have much more room to drill with the press now and it seems more rigid being much shorter.
I think you are right about the morse taper section. I'd need to think back, but I do not know if on my drill press it is removable.
Since you said to post fears I'll oblige.
I'm afraid the government puts small tracking and recording devices in small fruits and vegetables. For surveillance, of course.
Phew. Good to get that off my chest! Thanks for the content and therapy, Mike.
Ha! Thank you.
Very slick!
Thank you.
Excellent! Little tip: Get a strong (neodymium) magnet and place it on the drill press' side to hold your chuck key :-)
Good tip, thank you.
I like keeping a cheap metal magnetic parts tray from harbor freight attached to most of my floor tools. Makes 'put this somewhere real quick' a lot easier.
So clever, thx for the tip!
Glad it was helpful!
Love it! I should think that if you add a suite cross slide holder, you could make as if you are on a mill! Shorten up the quill depth to make it more ridged, and just done go bonkers on it: your plunge technique is likely an importantly part of making this work to keep you Morse tepaer from loosening. But I think this can give Precise results hard to get otherwise. . .
Thank you. You could do it with a cross vice, but the cuts would need to be small so the taper doesn't budge loose.
Real nice. Thanks!
You bet!