Go get your Prime Protein at www.equipfoods.com/lonestarhawaiian and use code "lonestarhawaiian" for a special offer! Big Mahalos to Equip Foods for sponsoring the video 🤙🏽
Mud mixer for the win. I bought one to do all of the small pours around my dream shop. The last pour was the entry pad to pass my inspection. Game changer in mixing concrete.
@@rixtrix11 Yeah they are stupidly expensive for being chinese and plagued with issues (from the hundreds of NON sponsored reviews and posts about it)..
@@BillliammGo rent one and try it out.. I honestly don't think it's worth the $$$$, but that's just me.. If this was around $1000 yes all day, but for 4x that.. Not a chance..
Everything is looking great Chad! Looking forward to the future build this year! I knew right away what the back pad was for and you confirmed it! Nice to watch since my shop is complete and full of cars storing them for the winter months! Take care and don't work too hard!
Looking awesome!! When you build the air compressor "shed" make sure to install a vent. Depending on the compressor type they can over heat and shut down until cooled. Just something I want to share from what I learned the hard way.
Good job. For the mud mixer, it is best to have all the concrete bags close and handy, so you can continue to add a bag as you go, and never run out. Looking forward to the 28 day results. I have accidentally got bags of concrete bags wet, and they have hardened but where not strong.
When you insulate the wall between your shop and the outside shed to contain your air compressor consider using Styrofoam panels with spray foam between the edges of the panels and the studs. Styrofoam panels are great at stopping the sound. If you choose to go that way get a spray foam gun, they are amazing and you don't have to sacrifice a can of spray foam each time you want to fill a gap.
The Container Guy (YT) found that spray foam by itself wasn't a good sound insulation, but adding a layer of rockwool on top of foam made things dead quiet.
I just thought of a name for the shop. The shop itself and how it has come together goes along the definition of mohala; unfolding, evolved or developed, and blossoming. Pretty much what the shop has done and the future projects will do. So, that being said, I thought of Mohala Hall as a shop name. Kinda catchy too.
Interesting episode. I appreciate the effort for the experiment. I have done both dry and wet pours. Dry pour is ok for fence posts, the post hole itself helps to hold water for saturation. A dry pour landing, not good for that, there is no way to concentrate enough water all over the surface for saturation. And if you don't mind, it's wheelbarrow not wheel barrel.
You forgot the pad for your HVAC. Being in Texas it is a game changer for when it’s blazing hot. Doing everything at a comfortable 70 degrees when it’s 90-110 out is wonderful! Plus the heater is nice too for this kind of weather
Not sure I want a dead deer in the back with me. Keep the blood and ticks in the bed for me. If it was just to haul, the van works well. Most companies in the US already use vans for most trades vehicles.
Everyone in the US has a van... for trades or families with kids. It's hilarious that people from outside the US think it's funny. It's just 100% misinformation. Vans in Europe are just mostly junk and can't fit enough materials. Ford E350 turbo diesel 4x4 van you say? Yes, yes... just slightly better than any Transit ever made.
It really depends on the type of work you do. With what I do a van, I use a station wagon, is better. If I frequently did projects with dimensional lumber or gravel, I'd rather have a truck.
Ive done the dry pour and it works great. My hvac condenser has been sitting there wirking for 2 years and still looks great. It looks like you did not soak it in the last watering.
FYI...My dog use to love rocks as well! But she broke 2 of her teeth, which caused issue later in her life with eating. At one point she swallowed one and couldn't pass it, that was an expensive vet bill! Just wanted to share that! Love the build!
The fact that it was 100 degrees out there has nothing to do with your top layer of concrete cracking. That maybe what whom ever did that told you. Concrete is all in the set up and the finish. Concrete peels up when you work it or play with it too much. Even if that was true about the top layer of concrete “drying to fast”, there is this amazing thing called a hose. You would just spritz water over the top and you would be fine. Bigger issues actually occur when doing things like spray painting your gravel that you put under the concrete, because that is meant to be “clean”. Just a heads up for future. P.S. it was very good that you put the gravel down, not just for the solid base, but so water has some where to run. Ask me how I know all this.
Spray painting the gravel under the concrete in small amounts isn't going to hurt anything. I've done multiple commercial concrete jobs including Walmart's where they pay a professional inspector to watch the entire process of concrete from start to finish, and never once has spray painted lay-out been an issue on any specification or project. Drying to fast absolutely can lead to surface cracking, the most common and extreme cases of this is when you have a lot of wind while trying to finish the concrete. You should not spray water onto the surface of wet concrete until it is completely finished and the water will not dilute the sediments in the concrete, if you need to add moisture to counter act heat and wind then you should use a product called Confilm Evaporation Retarder, it will add the moisture you need without weakening the surface causing spalling. Once the concrete is placed, finished, and dry water can be applied to keep it from curing too fast, there are concrete curing blankets designed to hold moisture on the surface maintaining 100% humidity for 14 days. You can alternatively can apply concrete Cure and Seal after finishing but I would not advise doing this if you are going to do a epoxy coating without doing a full surface abrasion.
That mud mixer looks awesome! I just bought a little Ryobi cement mixer for my new fence and any future cement work in the backyard. Are you doing gutters around the shop ?
Pretty sure it’s not needed when joining to the existing slab with rebar like he did. Expansion is to allow movement between the two slabs. Doweling the two slabs together with rebar is meant to stop that from happening so they both move as “one piece”… I do think he should have epoxied the rebar into the existing slab though… Could be wrong I guess. Been about 10 years since I worked in concrete 🤷🏼♂️
Love the shop and your videos. Should have left Maui’s paws in the concrete. For Christmas got my wife a Yorkie which is first tiny dog we ever had and he is four months old weighs about 4.2 pounds and he likes rocks small ones of course and twigs outside. He also likes to chase leaves when they are blowing.
I looked at the mud mixer but the problem is the cost for a truck is less than running the mixer with bags. I am with you though, it would be sweet to have if you have a bunch of small projects you can't do all at once.
Although your dry pour is bait for comments, there is a video of a strength test of dry pour vs wet. With dry pour being far weaker and essentially a waste of time in the long run. Its a good method for hack house flippers.
ohhhhh and BTW. Wifes a vet tech. Foreign body surgery is invasive and expensive. That's what it's called to remove rocks and other things dogs swallow. So, advise you not to encourage that. 2k to 5k in standard practice, more for emergency clinic. Also chewing on rocks breaks teeth.
One guy mudmixwer works best when you can back the truck load of concrete bags to the spot you are working. Very easy for a one man job. And don't forget to roll the mudmixer around or turn it 90 degrees when you finish that sidewalk pour.
I’m guessing it’s going to be one big compressor. If you inclose it, that will help with noise but also insulate it to help with noise and winter weather. And if you don’t know already, drain the air compressor after every use or every now and then so moisture doesn’t build up inside the tank (from temperature changing) and ruin your air lines and pneumatic tools.
There’s a guy on RUclips called “Michael builds“ and pretty much all he does is concrete. He did it both ways and they were pretty close when he was doing the testing on the concrete. Depending on what he was doing, it could go either way. Hate it or not, if done correctly, they are both pretty much equally as strong.
I don't know about that mixer, but yes, dry pouring seems inefficient and silly....in fact aside from doing it for fence and sign posts, I've never heard of it.
I wouldn't use a dry pour technique on a slab or pad. For me I believe it's best used on post holes. Cementing in mail box posts or like projects.. where having finished look and piece of mind with stability, tried and true mixing concrete in a mixer or wheelbarrow then pouring is in my opinion then process I put my name and reputation on .
I’m a concrete finisher and the dry pour will not look good and is not even gonna be close to 4000 psi maybe 500 psi But I’m a fan keep up the good content 😂
Something seems a bit off when you quoted the slope at 1:05 haha… A “25:12” slope would mean that for every 12” of horizontal distance, the vertical rise would be 25” lol.
It just me but would build a thing that dry pour with the weight and vibrations from a compressor no way you be replacing later after you have build walls on it that would suck
I've never considered dry pouring concrete for anything much larger than a post hole. I can't imagine larger areas of dry pour would cure properly since the top getting the bulk of the water would harden before the water could fully soak to the base. Something I've seen in local new construction which I find a bit freaky is they are mixing styrofoam beads (aka bean bag beads) in the concrete before pouring and pouring a much drier mix. They claim it makes for a lighter and stronger concrete that doesn't need expansion joints because the beads remain flexible. I think I'd rather they use the chopped and shredded used tires than styrofoam.
You pulled the forms off too early IMO. My wet pours take a week before they change color fully (dry out) so I try to wait that long if possible. For a dry pour it will continue to wick water (absorb) for several weeks as it tries to cure. I would leave the form on it for a week minimum and continue to water it. It will turn darker grey when exposed to water while the wet pour remains light colored and dry as a bone as it will refuse to wick any more water being nearly fully cured.
I saw you screed the pads (smooth with a board), but did not see you float (smooth with metal plate) it. I’ve never seen a pro skip that step; when I once skipped it, the top face of the concrete didn’t last but a few weeks before Flaking off. I also didn’t see where you epoxied your rebar stubs into the existing slab. I suspect you did, or I would question whether the connection was any good. (It’s also been my experience that hammer-drills are really only good for 3/8” holes MAX; anything larger and you really want to use a real root-hammer) Nice decorative touch with the broom. How expensive is the mixmaster? How much concrete do you want to pour to make it cost-effective? What’s the most you want to mix before you just call in the big truck? I’m going to have to look into this dry-pour method. Likewise, I often see pros cover the pours as they dry - either a canvas tarp or a plastic sheet - and occasionally return to add water to the slabs.
edge it then use a shaggy paint roller real easy across the slab before water and it will get rid of the lines....never mind, u just did it. I am a fan of the dry pour. but i do a "mist" every hour for the inches of thickness. 4 inches/4 mists, then at least 4 soaks. I did a 9.5'x14' my last one in 2 sections.
It would've been nice to have the compressor on the opposite side so it doesn't disturb your neighbor every time it turns on because compressors are loud and turn on often. It'll drive a person mad with the noise it makes.
You should checkout the Ultra Quiet Oil-free Air Compressor that exist at least over here in Europe, they are as they say in the name super quite and i dont record for youtube, but its the best thing i got for my garage in 2024 thats for sure!
@@thisvsthat6930 200L/min @ 6 bar with 100L tank works just fine for anything i have thrown at it. 360L/min @2 bar if you want a lower pressure as well.
@@thisvsthat6930 cfm thats some wierd US stuff right, thats still based on a metric measurement right? ;) 200L/min @ 6Bar is still more then i ever needed
You could have saved the money on the base stone and just pour on the dirt as long as it’s compacted. It’s important to soak the area before you pour concrete because as the ground gets saturated, it expands. So having it soaked it will be fully expanded. Stone is just used to fill the space if you over dig. I just make sure to not over dig the area. Native is somewhat compact. But then you hit it with the plate compactor and you are good to go.
My suggestion.. go with a smaller compressor and skip the shed outside. Unless you’re having air powered machines (tire machines or planning to paint a whole car.. etc.) electric tools are really the way to go and you won’t be using the large compressor as much as you’d think.
I lkke the way he says " relocated, think green, save the planet" and in the same time i have (many cars and they are oversized) ... i'm not saying go full electric (it's polution too, but diferent way), what i'm saying haveing smaller car - less polution.
Initial cost and the slowness of the Mudmixer are a huge turnoff for me. One can purchase tons of concrete for $3400 dollars. Get rid of the G-80, very unreliable and will release if you lift a tire, kinda negating a "locker" effect and possibly leaving you stranded.
Having a pad under an air compressor that is not super strong will result in the pad disintegrating. Love you not being hesitant to at least try new things.
Do yourself a favor with that rear end and upgrade that G80, I broke 2 in my Dmax before I decided to put a Yukon locker in Its been 10 years since then and haven't looked back.
I would never do a dry pour in this situation, it's not nearly as strong as a wet mix! It will start deteriorate in a few years! If you set your own forums it's really not that expensive just to get a concrete truck it'll last you so many more decades then what you're doing! Just trying to help!
Go get your Prime Protein at www.equipfoods.com/lonestarhawaiian and use code "lonestarhawaiian" for a special offer! Big Mahalos to Equip Foods for sponsoring the video 🤙🏽
at 55 bucks a bag they gotta start doin better pricing for you and your subscr.... thats wayyyy overppriced for prot...they wont be around too long
Mud mixer for the win. I bought one to do all of the small pours around my dream shop. The last pour was the entry pad to pass my inspection. Game changer in mixing concrete.
wasn't that a very expensive way to do a bunch of small pours, albeit much easier.
@@rixtrix11 Yeah they are stupidly expensive for being chinese and plagued with issues (from the hundreds of NON sponsored reviews and posts about it)..
is it so much better that it justifies being 10x the price of a stand mixer?
@@BillliammGo rent one and try it out.. I honestly don't think it's worth the $$$$, but that's just me.. If this was around $1000 yes all day, but for 4x that.. Not a chance..
Everything is looking great Chad! Looking forward to the future build this year! I knew right away what the back pad was for and you confirmed it! Nice to watch since my shop is complete and full of cars storing them for the winter months! Take care and don't work too hard!
Looking awesome!! When you build the air compressor "shed" make sure to install a vent. Depending on the compressor type they can over heat and shut down until cooled. Just something I want to share from what I learned the hard way.
Good job. For the mud mixer, it is best to have all the concrete bags close and handy, so you can continue to add a bag as you go, and never run out. Looking forward to the 28 day results. I have accidentally got bags of concrete bags wet, and they have hardened but where not strong.
When you insulate the wall between your shop and the outside shed to contain your air compressor consider using Styrofoam panels with spray foam between the edges of the panels and the studs. Styrofoam panels are great at stopping the sound. If you choose to go that way get a spray foam gun, they are amazing and you don't have to sacrifice a can of spray foam each time you want to fill a gap.
The Container Guy (YT) found that spray foam by itself wasn't a good sound insulation, but adding a layer of rockwool on top of foam made things dead quiet.
I just thought of a name for the shop. The shop itself and how it has come together goes along the definition of mohala; unfolding, evolved or developed, and blossoming. Pretty much what the shop has done and the future projects will do. So, that being said, I thought of Mohala Hall as a shop name. Kinda catchy too.
🤙🏽🤙🏽
Smart..... 👍👍
Nothing but straight motivation just seen this channel. You are the men.
Man i cant wait until you start dressing the inside of the shop! The most epic DIY build on youtube!
It’s coming along pretty well and so far it’s beautiful.
What a great job you have done on this shop. 💯💯💯💯😎😎😎😎
Interesting episode. I appreciate the effort for the experiment. I have done both dry and wet pours. Dry pour is ok for fence posts, the post hole itself helps to hold water for saturation. A dry pour landing, not good for that, there is no way to concentrate enough water all over the surface for saturation. And if you don't mind, it's wheelbarrow not wheel barrel.
Check out the SWI fence post pours with dry vs wet. Quite scary. You will appreciate that video ;)
You forgot the pad for your HVAC. Being in Texas it is a game changer for when it’s blazing hot. Doing everything at a comfortable 70 degrees when it’s 90-110 out is wonderful! Plus the heater is nice too for this kind of weather
Dry pour is not hated - it’s a great way to do it 😊
Americans discovering vans are WAY more practical than pickups never stops being funny to me. Btw great build and great content.
Not sure I want a dead deer in the back with me. Keep the blood and ticks in the bed for me. If it was just to haul, the van works well. Most companies in the US already use vans for most trades vehicles.
I hate vans... it what I've always said. (Secretly really starting to like them)
Everyone in the US has a van... for trades or families with kids. It's hilarious that people from outside the US think it's funny. It's just 100% misinformation. Vans in Europe are just mostly junk and can't fit enough materials. Ford E350 turbo diesel 4x4 van you say? Yes, yes... just slightly better than any Transit ever made.
TBH pickups are just budget vans with a car underlay, only getting bigger and meaner cos of chicken tax...
Just look at the japanese kei trucks...
It really depends on the type of work you do. With what I do a van, I use a station wagon, is better. If I frequently did projects with dimensional lumber or gravel, I'd rather have a truck.
That mixer is so dang cool.
Aloha, brother! I’m loving this build. Can’t wait to see more…
Thanks for watching!
Ive done the dry pour and it works great. My hvac condenser has been sitting there wirking for 2 years and still looks great. It looks like you did not soak it in the last watering.
Your case is pretty much the only way dry pour could be used (not should be used).
FYI...My dog use to love rocks as well! But she broke 2 of her teeth, which caused issue later in her life with eating. At one point she swallowed one and couldn't pass it, that was an expensive vet bill! Just wanted to share that!
Love the build!
The fact that it was 100 degrees out there has nothing to do with your top layer of concrete cracking. That maybe what whom ever did that told you. Concrete is all in the set up and the finish. Concrete peels up when you work it or play with it too much. Even if that was true about the top layer of concrete “drying to fast”, there is this amazing thing called a hose. You would just spritz water over the top and you would be fine. Bigger issues actually occur when doing things like spray painting your gravel that you put under the concrete, because that is meant to be “clean”. Just a heads up for future. P.S. it was very good that you put the gravel down, not just for the solid base, but so water has some where to run. Ask me how I know all this.
Love this! THanks for the info 🤙🏽
Spray painting the gravel under the concrete in small amounts isn't going to hurt anything. I've done multiple commercial concrete jobs including Walmart's where they pay a professional inspector to watch the entire process of concrete from start to finish, and never once has spray painted lay-out been an issue on any specification or project.
Drying to fast absolutely can lead to surface cracking, the most common and extreme cases of this is when you have a lot of wind while trying to finish the concrete. You should not spray water onto the surface of wet concrete until it is completely finished and the water will not dilute the sediments in the concrete, if you need to add moisture to counter act heat and wind then you should use a product called Confilm Evaporation Retarder, it will add the moisture you need without weakening the surface causing spalling.
Once the concrete is placed, finished, and dry water can be applied to keep it from curing too fast, there are concrete curing blankets designed to hold moisture on the surface maintaining 100% humidity for 14 days. You can alternatively can apply concrete Cure and Seal after finishing but I would not advise doing this if you are going to do a epoxy coating without doing a full surface abrasion.
Heat absolutely has something to do with cracking. This is why contractors pour pads at 4am during the summer in Texas.
How do you know all this?!? 😁
Sprinter vans are great for hauling and easy to work on. If you need to take engine out it so easy few bolts and lines, engine and the frame drops
I have a love-hate relationship with Mercedes... the Sprinter is making me like them again 😅
@LonestarHawaiian easy tip don't let it idle for long periods of time without driving it hot. The DPF and EGR will glog up easily
@@laurikoivumaki1471 Good to know!
That mud mixer looks awesome! I just bought a little Ryobi cement mixer for my new fence and any future cement work in the backyard.
Are you doing gutters around the shop ?
Just Needed to put Expansion joints between concrete pad..over all good job on everything..
Pretty sure it’s not needed when joining to the existing slab with rebar like he did. Expansion is to allow movement between the two slabs. Doweling the two slabs together with rebar is meant to stop that from happening so they both move as “one piece”… I do think he should have epoxied the rebar into the existing slab though…
Could be wrong I guess. Been about 10 years since I worked in concrete 🤷🏼♂️
Love the shop and your videos. Should have left Maui’s paws in the concrete. For Christmas got my wife a Yorkie which is first tiny dog we ever had and he is four months old weighs about 4.2 pounds and he likes rocks small ones of course and twigs outside. He also likes to chase leaves when they are blowing.
I looked at the mud mixer but the problem is the cost for a truck is less than running the mixer with bags. I am with you though, it would be sweet to have if you have a bunch of small projects you can't do all at once.
Good luck getting trucks to deliver you a 1/2 yard of concrete in any kind of timely manner these days.
Cool cement mixer, looks like a mini version of the Gold Rush machines from discovery channel
17:04 “Dry Powder, placement: and the Internet Explodes 🤯”. Uh….. I’m one of those on the Internet wondering 🤔 💭 “Dry Pour”?
Although your dry pour is bait for comments, there is a video of a strength test of dry pour vs wet. With dry pour being far weaker and essentially a waste of time in the long run. Its a good method for hack house flippers.
ohhhhh and BTW. Wifes a vet tech. Foreign body surgery is invasive and expensive. That's what it's called to remove rocks and other things dogs swallow. So, advise you not to encourage that. 2k to 5k in standard practice, more for emergency clinic. Also chewing on rocks breaks teeth.
Yeah... he's constantly in trouble for chewing everything.
The Kam Patterson quote 😂😂
I was hoping I wasn't the only one that caught that.
America is so beautiful. I love my country🇺🇸💪
Shaka Shop 🔥🔥🔥
🤙🏽🤙🏽
Chad you're good on slope for water. I work in the Data Center HVAC industry and rule of thumb is 1/8" per foot slope for water.
Right on! Thanks dropping in this comment 🤙🏽
One guy mudmixwer works best when you can back the truck load of concrete bags to the spot you are working. Very easy for a one man job. And don't forget to roll the mudmixer around or turn it 90 degrees when you finish that sidewalk pour.
I’m guessing it’s going to be one big compressor. If you inclose it, that will help with noise but also insulate it to help with noise and winter weather. And if you don’t know already, drain the air compressor after every use or every now and then so moisture doesn’t build up inside the tank (from temperature changing) and ruin your air lines and pneumatic tools.
When you said 30 - 60 seconds of mist then an hour between I knew the dry pour would turn out not so good. Love the videos though, keep em coming.
26:16 MO BETTAH GARAGE
Agreed!
Drypoor is genius, and just as strong. I have done it and live in cold climate.
That is 100% false.. It has been proven that it barley reaches 1000 PSI and crumbles under load...
New camera ans audio is good
There’s a guy on RUclips called “Michael builds“ and pretty much all he does is concrete. He did it both ways and they were pretty close when he was doing the testing on the concrete. Depending on what he was doing, it could go either way. Hate it or not, if done correctly, they are both pretty much equally as strong.
Can't hide the "time frame" of this project because of how fast Maui is growing 😂😂😂😂
looks great
If you want the dry pour to be smooth you have to put portland cement on top.
Tell us on RUclips also. I Don't do Instagram!
Will do! I'll be sure to include it in an upload when we finish!
So, not sure if you're aware, Sakrete has an app that will tell you how much concrete you need per project.
so hawaii to texas? how do you like it?
I don't know about that mixer, but yes, dry pouring seems inefficient and silly....in fact aside from doing it for fence and sign posts, I've never heard of it.
Couldn’t get to the comments fast enough to see what all the internet “concrete experts” had to say. 😂🤣😂🤣
The flood is coming 😂
What about a backup generator in the back corner as well?
Not a bad idea. It should fit in there just fine.
I wouldn't use a dry pour technique on a slab or pad. For me I believe it's best used on post holes. Cementing in mail box posts or like projects.. where having finished look and piece of mind with stability, tried and true mixing concrete in a mixer or wheelbarrow then pouring is in my opinion then process I put my name and reputation on .
I have heard that it takes around 40-43 years for a dry pour to cure properly.
Awaiting the follow up video 🙏
its not only from the water but the wood pulls the moisture when you screed with it to the top using steel does not do this
Mud mixer is supposed to hold 540 lb bags. So for those that may be math challenged, that would be 2 1/2 , 80 lb bags.
23:09 never heard of christmas? 2 weeks seems crazy but ... happens every year lol.
Swisstrax floors inside the shop. Epoxy just doesn’t last. You are creative and could make a sick design. I believe they make custom logos, too.
I like the idea!
aloha dome is sick
They make ultra quiet air compressors. Nessxa on amazon fills 0-100% around 200 psi in 90 seconds. 200 for a 10 gallon on amazon business
Hi, What is the “Rdecks” you mentioned.
It's a top-layer dressing I was recommended to install on my concrete driveway to repair the surface cracking.
What are you going to seal the concrete with?
I’m a concrete finisher and the dry pour will not look good and is not even gonna be close to 4000 psi maybe 500 psi
But I’m a fan keep up the good content 😂
Something seems a bit off when you quoted the slope at 1:05 haha… A “25:12” slope would mean that for every 12” of horizontal distance, the vertical rise would be 25” lol.
Funny part is, im watching while at work.... at a concrete company :)
...so technically watching a concrete video would still be "work"... right? 😅 Thanks for watching!
@ yes I’m considering it technically working lol
It just me but would build a thing that dry pour with the weight and vibrations from a compressor no way you be replacing later after you have build walls on it that would suck
When are you going to finish the exterior walls?? It's been bare for a long time.
That mud mixer is nearly $4k I'll take the FREE dry pour any day!
I've never considered dry pouring concrete for anything much larger than a post hole. I can't imagine larger areas of dry pour would cure properly since the top getting the bulk of the water would harden before the water could fully soak to the base.
Something I've seen in local new construction which I find a bit freaky is they are mixing styrofoam beads (aka bean bag beads) in the concrete before pouring and pouring a much drier mix. They claim it makes for a lighter and stronger concrete that doesn't need expansion joints because the beads remain flexible. I think I'd rather they use the chopped and shredded used tires than styrofoam.
styrofoam in concrete... that's terrifying to hear...
Concrete cures, it’s also still porous so water can seep through it.
Why no landscaping material before the concrete?
You pulled the forms off too early IMO. My wet pours take a week before they change color fully (dry out) so I try to wait that long if possible. For a dry pour it will continue to wick water (absorb) for several weeks as it tries to cure. I would leave the form on it for a week minimum and continue to water it. It will turn darker grey when exposed to water while the wet pour remains light colored and dry as a bone as it will refuse to wick any more water being nearly fully cured.
I saw you screed the pads (smooth with a board), but did not see you float (smooth with metal plate) it. I’ve never seen a pro skip that step; when I once skipped it, the top face of the concrete didn’t last but a few weeks before Flaking off.
I also didn’t see where you epoxied your rebar stubs into the existing slab. I suspect you did, or I would question whether the connection was any good. (It’s also been my experience that hammer-drills are really only good for 3/8” holes MAX; anything larger and you really want to use a real root-hammer)
Nice decorative touch with the broom.
How expensive is the mixmaster? How much concrete do you want to pour to make it cost-effective? What’s the most you want to mix before you just call in the big truck?
I’m going to have to look into this dry-pour method.
Likewise, I often see pros cover the pours as they dry - either a canvas tarp or a plastic sheet - and occasionally return to add water to the slabs.
Cool 😎 !
Did you know there is a company in Ok. called Mobetta they make shirts. Garth Brooks wears them.
edge it then use a shaggy paint roller real easy across the slab before water and it will get rid of the lines....never mind, u just did it. I am a fan of the dry pour. but i do a "mist" every hour for the inches of thickness. 4 inches/4 mists, then at least 4 soaks. I did a 9.5'x14' my last one in 2 sections.
Are you ever going to finish the exterior walls?
Thanks for the reminder - DO NOT build or buy anywhere that requires constant (or any) inspections.
Puppers!!!
It would've been nice to have the compressor on the opposite side so it doesn't disturb your neighbor every time it turns on because compressors are loud and turn on often. It'll drive a person mad with the noise it makes.
I would have just picked up a ready mix trailer. It’s already mixed and you just pour it.
Not available everywhere and likely would have been closed for the holiday when he did this. Your own equipment you can use on your time.
...I like buying tools... It's an addiction.
Did you damage the bottom panel of your garage door??
I was gonna say what hvac system?
You didn’t glue the rebar into the existing slab.
You should checkout the Ultra Quiet Oil-free Air Compressor that exist at least over here in Europe, they are as they say in the name super quite and i dont record for youtube, but its the best thing i got for my garage in 2024 thats for sure!
Most of those don't produce nearly enough cfm to be useful in a shop.
@@thisvsthat6930 200L/min @ 6 bar with 100L tank works just fine for anything i have thrown at it. 360L/min @2 bar if you want a lower pressure as well.
@@thisvsthat6930 cfm thats some wierd US stuff right, thats still based on a metric measurement right? ;)
200L/min @ 6Bar is still more then i ever needed
Weather techs are much better!!!
Yeah you needed to vibrate that concrete so you had all the nooks and crannies
When does the pool videos start
Build a pool with the Mud Mixer... I love the idea 👌🏽
You could have saved the money on the base stone and just pour on the dirt as long as it’s compacted. It’s important to soak the area before you pour concrete because as the ground gets saturated, it expands. So having it soaked it will be fully expanded. Stone is just used to fill the space if you over dig. I just make sure to not over dig the area. Native is somewhat compact. But then you hit it with the plate compactor and you are good to go.
If I were to do it again, i'd definitely go get a load of fill dirt to start... trying to do this during the holiday's didn't help my case 😅
My suggestion.. go with a smaller compressor and skip the shed outside.
Unless you’re having air powered machines (tire machines or planning to paint a whole car.. etc.) electric tools are really the way to go and you won’t be using the large compressor as much as you’d think.
Sir I'M getting a MUD MIXER
I take that you have decided to stay there. Hope it works out for you.
I lkke the way he says " relocated, think green, save the planet" and in the same time i have (many cars and they are oversized) ...
i'm not saying go full electric (it's polution too, but diferent way), what i'm saying haveing smaller car - less polution.
What the hell is a “wheel barrel”? Is it something like a wheelbarrow?
🛞🛢️
Your him! 🫡
You forgot the pad for the ac
Should have put your forms up front less work on u later
Initial cost and the slowness of the Mudmixer are a huge turnoff for me. One can purchase tons of concrete for $3400 dollars. Get rid of the G-80, very unreliable and will release if you lift a tire, kinda negating a "locker" effect and possibly leaving you stranded.
Next time brotha just mark your stamper with a 6 inch mark all around. Then you use one tool to rule them all!!!!
Also what model Sprinter is that?
That's actually pretty brilliant... definitely doing that next time!
@@LonestarHawaiian what model and year sprinter is the one you picked up?
fire
Having a pad under an air compressor that is not super strong will result in the pad disintegrating. Love you not being hesitant to at least try new things.
Do yourself a favor with that rear end and upgrade that G80, I broke 2 in my Dmax before I decided to put a Yukon locker in Its been 10 years since then and haven't looked back.
I've thought about it! I'll be for sure swapping the gearing on this thing before I put it in.
I would never do a dry pour in this situation, it's not nearly as strong as a wet mix! It will start deteriorate in a few years! If you set your own forums it's really not that expensive just to get a concrete truck it'll last you so many more decades then what you're doing! Just trying to help!
Go get a mini Chinese mini excavator for making digging videos.
TEMU's been tempting me...
Good move on the mudmixer...it will outrun you once set properly. It's a good piece of equipment.
I'm loving it so far!