You sew like my grandma. She used to say “a seamstress without a thimble , sews little and badly” -It sounds better in Spanish “Costurera sin decal code poco y cose mal” -it rhymes. Wonderful memoriess. Thank you.
I completed my compulsory military service in the 1970's with an obsession for making my own bed first thing when I get out of it, an intolerance for anything but perfect ironing, for wearing only cotton and natural fabric as well as an entirely self-taught skill out of necessity for sewing on buttons, patches and name tags, darning socks and repairs to uniforms. Sewing has been a most useful though mostly secret skill for all of my life while I always thought that some day I should improve the way I do it. Today I finally understand that a thimble is not to protect your opposite hand from the tip of the needle but to rapidly press the back of the needle through the fabric.
It's cool to see men sewing and doing fine hand work. People forget that back on the day men were cloth makings, weavers, lace makers and clothing makers for both men and women. They were some of the finest tapestry makers and embroiderers of their time.
You sound like my husband. He's a combat marine vet, a badass In every way imaginable & as well as welding, construction work, & all things "manly" he can sew better than me! Nothing wrong with it at all, more men should know how😉
@@rebeccafantstegall1899 My dad always knew how to sew and when I asked him how he knew, he told me it was something every US Navy sailor learned how to do, even though they don't have cloth sails to mend any longer! Don't Marines I have similar boot camp to Navy? I wonder if that's where your husband learned to so also....
@@kiki29073 Even today, in India, most tailors (for men's and women's clothing) are men. You should see how carefully they measure your body without touching it, it's an art in itself, LOL!
Mathew my thimble as been my best friend for over 50 yrs,all the sewing I have done with it…how people sew without one I do not know..their fingers must be so sore!
Wow! Learned about thread usage, types of thimbles, stitching… and probably more. Thank you… and thank you to “Commenters” because I often learn a lot from you too. 😌
I'm a LARPer and since having kids, being stuck at a sewing machine trying to make garb has just been impossible. But then i find myself bored on a bench at a playground or a playdate. But I haven't picked up handsewing because I could never get efficient enough to really make anything of quality and in a timely manner. You saying "you need to be quick to work in my shop" gave me 🤩 Yes, teach me these ways.
I learned Tailoring in an advanced high school class, & made most of my professional clothes, of course nothing compared to you doing it for a living. Im so glad I found your channel today. The pinning to your jeans to secure your work was simple yet brilliant, loved it. I was saying wow, why didnt I think of that, lol. Anyway, ty for sharing! Im going to watch more of your other videos.
Just found your site and was intrigued as to what you would say. I loved embroidery as a girl and when I left school (aged 15) I went into a tailoring factory in Leeds, Yorkshire, where I was taught hand sewing. However, sewing velour coats was a filthy trade imo and I left for an office job - when I spent 50 years doing. Once I retired I began teaching quilting (by machine) and loved it but it got too heavy for me to lift and manouver. I then moved on to English Paper Piecing and Slow stitching which suits my age better lol. Also I found a place to buy quilter's needles, which are wonderful slithers of metal which sew like lightening. Sorry to burble on but I thought someone may be interested.
Love my thimbles. I have a collection of leather and metal thimbles that I both cherish and use regularly. I have favourite thimbles for different stitching functions. And thin needles for delicate, finely woven fabrics, thicker needles for heavier weights. My grandmother (who taught me to sew and repar clothing, and quilt) said "you can't stitch with a crowbar, but it'll get you through some pretty thick material"!😉
I have my great grandmothers sewing kit from over 100 years ago. The needles are so fine I've never been able to buy the thread for them. If I sew very fine silk I harvest the threads from the same material. Thanks for showing us how to use the thimble properly.
I realise this is a super old comment but it might help: for Suxiu, Chinese Suzhou style embroidery, they use incredibly fine silk. It's called "filament silk" and is often split into tinier pieces before threading onto the needles: you might find that suitable for your needles. It can often be found on embroidery thread websites, which will also sell a variety of lighter weight, finer silk threads oftentimes. Good luck!
100 weight silk thread is available in neutral colours - check online for a source near you. That should be thin enough, if you wish to use those heirloom needles. Good luck and happy sewing.
I'm a masters dressmaker from austria and if I sew very lightweight fabric I use the thin needles (No 11 short) because you would see all the holes your needle creates and they will stay visible after sewing. That's why we use thin needles. But if I sew heavier fabrics or wool I use thicker needles because it's simply easier and I don't want to ruin my super thin needles. :D Tailors usually only use the thicker fabrics which aren't as delicate as a silk chiffon or silk satin.
For chiffon and satin, I rarely need to use anything smaller than an 8 or 9 between. You make a good point about the textile choice. Of course each material is different and one should make sure to choose according the needs of the piece. I have used size 5 and 6 on chiffon before and the holes close up when the fabric is steamed...but charmeuse doesn't up as well. Beginners just learning to hand sew entire garments wouldn't be using those fabrics yet. This video is primarily intended for beginners who don't have the experience yet to make those choices.
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 This is very true! And I know this video helped at least some people because a friend was super excited to see your video and sent me the link! And I also learned new things. I always struggeled to sew with a thimble but I want to give it another try now. :) I also think needle sizes come down to personal preferences and how you learned it from your teachers or bosses! When I worked at a theatre my boss did so much different from which I was used to and when I attended a tailoring course in London I again learned different techniques and preferences. And as you said it also always depends so much on the fabric. :)
@@elfenhexchen I'm so glad there was something you gained from the video! Now I have in my to-do list, a video which shows the effect of different needle sizes on finer fabrics. I think it is essential for people to see what it looks when needle holes vanish and when they don't. A tutorial about working with different fabrics is a great idea. Showing people "this is what it is like to hand stitch a chiffon blouse." Or "Here is how you work with a charmeuse without losing your mind." Your comment has really sparked a great conversation! Thank you!
Great information and the details excellent. Being a quilter for 20+ years, the use of a thimble, is a must. I’m fairly certain many individuals, myself included, find when first wearing a thimble. That it’s awkward and feels foreign and quiet cumbersome. This is too be expected. The individual that taught me to quilt, shared a tip to become comfortable in wearing a thimble. Place thimble on and just wear it. Begin with 30mins several times a day. Increase the time and how often. Wear it especially if you have any handwriting to do, aids in dexterity. Soon it becomes an ole friend ! One very important tip regarding hand sewing and thread. Thread has a directional twist. Load your needle prior to cutting thread from the spool. Guarantees the correct twist is maintained. Also, makes hand stitching look better and certainly more enjoyable. Less tangles and knots ! Thank you for sharing your thoughts and knowledge. Best regards !
Thank you for this video. Actually now I'm in middle to decide for purchase sewing machine just for fixing cloths only as I had issue about hurting my finger. I learned two things from this video. First is how to use and existing of thimble. I never know thimble before. Second is how to sewing faster by hold one side of cloths to somethings. Maybe I should find some clamp to hold it. I don't think I need sewing machine at now.
I feel like I’m five times smarter just after watching this video. Thank you! I love your dedication to hand crafting as an art and as a means of professional production.
Agreed:o when i heard it i thought that is what i need! Not only for my sewing and other hand crafts but also with my job. I do alot of hand work with tiny component's like carfully scrape away glue that needs to be cleaned up. Lot's of tiny movement's lot's of sitting still in the same potition:p.
I need something better than a Like button for this video. Halfway through this video I turned to my husband and said, "OMG!" And he replied with a huge smile, "Is this video going to change your life?" YES! I hand sew all my family's SCA garb (for fun, not to make it period) and he is not wrong! Thank you so much! (Can you tell I'm excited to try some of these techniques?)
This feels so over my head but boy it was a lot better than the other videos I've seen is nice hearing about it from a professional standpoint then some beloved pastime
This is going to sound absolutely ridiculous, but here goes: I had RUclips going for background noise last night. This video popped up on autoplay. I've been doing French handsewing and lace making for ~20 years. Recently (in my early 30s) I started having pain in my hands after sewing. Not little aches--pain so bad I couldn't sign my name and took days off. I suspected arthritis. Then I saw your video and made a few changes to how I sit and hold my work. I've been working about 12 hours today. No more pain. I've been suffering because of laziness and stupidity. I don't see a warm up video, but I'll be working my way through the channel. Already subbed. Thanks.
After 50 years of industrial sewing now retired and have time to learn haute couture methods. I'm enjoying the process of making my clothes and using hand sewing methods along with my sewing machine. Excellent video and your presentation style and voice a pleasure to listen to.
The tip about placing a pin through the fabric into my pant leg will make such a difference! ♥ Thank you for taking the time to make this fabulous tutorial and you've earned a new subscriber.
Oh, my! I’ve always been taught you have to use the tip of your thimble to push! I’ve been putting a stick on one on the side because it worked easier there! Now I gotta get a decent open top one, and see if I can wean myself away from the disposables! I’ve also been using my granny’s tiny appliqué needles for sewing, because I found it worked easier, with less hand movement than anything else, and they were the best quality I had. I’m glad it’s not just an oddity of my self teaching
Right? It wasn't until I was working as a professional that I learned the closed top thimbles are meant for quilting, embroidery and beading...where the surface is usually stretched in a frame and the needle is meant to be pushed up and down instead of side to side.
I had just started to use my grandmothers thimble in the last month after hearing you speak about it and many others that I really look up to. TOTAL GAME CHANGER! I'm still adjusting but SO glad that I am using a thimble! I think I need to look for a smaller size thimble though. :) LOVE the videos like this! it's great information!
my grandmother born 1901 was a tailor\seamstressshe said they would do one day fancy sewing which took time and then a few days of super fast pieces to make their money.
Where to find good quality thimbles for big fingers? I’m a carpenter who rock climbs. The biggest I can find in craft shops are too snug for my pinkie finger.
I would order online from tailor/clothing industry supply warehouses...not craft stores. Craft stores are marketed and stocked for older women...with smaller hands. Tailor suppliers, and notions vendors for the clothing industry have no such gender bias in the way they stock their warehouses...I would start looking for thimbles in the 15-16-17 size range...if you can find them in those sizes, that's a good sign that you're on the right track.
The writing callus example helped me so much! I hold my pen with an odd grip and I tend to want to hold my needle the same way. I switched to a thimble on my ring finger because that's where my callus is and why follow the rules if I'm stitching for myself... INSTANTLY faster and less strain on my hands! Still a little resist to a thimble but now I have a concept of how it should work effectively for me!
Wow ! You brought back so many memories of sewing terms and techniques, I haven't heard in decades . Learning to sew as a thirteen years old , was part of school home economic class in 1970. We started with hand-sewing projects, in which I was always slow and late completing..
2023 10-4 Tuesday 1:32 PM CST... I just come across your channel I have a wonderful sewing machine my husband bought me of course brand new back in 1986 when we got married and I still use it but when I have to do some sewing and stuff I don't care if it's major you know I hand soap and I always use a symbol... Position You know you have to have the right tools for the trade as they say and I like what you said about if you don't use a thimble well you know hey that's part of what you need to do your job... And let me tell you you had no attitude or tone in your voice I like what you said I liked how you said it and there was no need to apologize for that... You didn't lie you just told us how you felt and that you have a right to do that so keep up the good work kiddo... 😁
This is so so helpful, thank you. I intended to buy sharps but ended up with betweens because they didn't have sharps, and I'm really glad I did: my hands are also tiny so a longer needle would probably hurt to use. I'm really interested that you use a size 5 which to me sounds massive (although I'm in the UK): I've heard other original practise folks using size 10s and relying on very small, firm stitches for strength. I know they got very enthused about that (tiny stitches with I suppose tiny needles and fine thread) in the 19th century, but I feel like this video is giving me "permission" in a way to throw that idea out and buy slightly larger needles and thicker thread. The part about using basting *instead* of pins is going to be a game changer: getting my thread stuck on pins has been my chief hand-sewing frustration. For basting straight seams I borrowed the Japanese unshin handsewing technique which makes a straight running stitch go lightning fast, too. Also I knew about pinning the fabric to myself but was doing it incorrectly so that it kept sliding out: obviously, do it at a right angle! Oops. I love some original practise but am mostly into handsewing because frankly I loathe dealing with sewing machines: despite a fair bit of practise I just cannot seem to get enough control over the speed with the foot pedal, stop the feed dogs from chewing up my fabric, or avoid tangled thread. I do have some general brain/body coordination issues that might not be helping, but handsewing is much much easier for me, so it's great to see this kind of tutorial on practical efficient techniques.
It think the tradition with Dressmaking was definitely to use very fine needles and thread...owing to the thinness of the silks and fine glazed cottons that were used at the time. Tailors, in contrast, were more likely to use larger needles and thread. BUT...you ALWAYS HAVE PERMISSION to use the tools that suit your own body and needs! Never doubt that! Yes, the materials also dictate, to some extent the size of your needle and thread...I use smaller needles and finer thread when I'm sewing on silks...but nothing so fine as a size 10. My large, strong fingers just bend those needles and I can't work with them. So I use the needles that are right for my body and movement in conjunction with what the fabric needs.
The line stays straight for two reasons...lots of practice as well as anchoring the work. It is something you could try if you find it hard to stitch a straight line by hand. It was a game-changer for me. Also...I did the painting on the wall...it was my first-ever self-portrait.
so happy i came across this video, im takling a long hand project and will be wanting to increase my speed without decreasing my quality. oh what id give for some of my relatives tobe alive still.
Thank you for this class :) I have a hard time with small needles, my patchwork teacher keeps telling me to use smaller ones but I have clumsy hands and medium needles I can handle better with the thimble. I became accustomed to the sashiko thimble that fits in the space between the finger and extends partially over the palm. It protects well and if you make it sturdy never will allow the neddle to reach skin.
I’ve had piercings and made jewelry for years, I even looked into getting a rolling mill and draw plates to make my own wire, but I never knew thought as to why gauges are numbered in the way that they are. I never would’ve guessed I’d find out when I’m looking into stitching 😂Thanks for all the info!
I was taught to take a different type of basting for slippery material which I assume your silk is. We had to take a normal length stitch then a half length stitch and so on. This meant the fabric was more secure and would not slide.
I keep trying different thimbles every time I go someplace. Two of my favourites that I've found are a sterling silver one from a historical Rendezvous and an antique one I found by accident one day! Open top ring thimbles seem to be my best choice from modern thimbles, but I've still got to try them on to see if they fit. I totally agree with the thimble distribution ideas!
I've subscribed and I can't wait to binge a bunch of your content. I've been stitching by hand since childhood, but speed and efficiency were never emphasized as I believe my grandmother and mother had me hand sewing to keep me out of their hair! I also never learned to use a thimble, but now I'm determined to teach my hands this new habit as I'm tired of poking myself and having rough, calloused fingers! Thanks again for your excellent content.
This was very helpful. I'm a keen amateur sewer, but I want to improve and get better. Thanks for sharing your skills with us. I love the tip on pinning to your pant - that's a keeper! BTW there's nothing wrong in your tone. Greetings from North Wales UK
I have thimbles, and tried to use them but didn't know how to. This was very helpful, also knowing that it is difficult to adjust to using the thimble.
That was great! Thank you. I have always struggled not knowing how to correctly hand sew items and was doing way too much work in the process. Even though it is not my most favorite task, I look forward to trying this technique. 👍
I design and create cross stitch patterns, I am also a trained costumer. One thing I often notice is that people don't replace their needles often enough and use old pitted needles. I know my mums sewing needles are over 20 years old and I can't/won't use them. I always keep packs of fresh needles in my kit and replace often. Every new cross stitch starts with a new needle and if it's a larger pattern I might replace the needle a couple of tines. The oils and acids in our skin degrades the metal.
I discovered your channel recently and as I am in the middle of my first historical sewing project, your videos are a real goldmine of information! The extremely detailed and patient explanations are lovely, I cannot thank you enough for such an invaluable resource!
I think that people don't use thimbles because they are uncomfortable wearing them. I still remember when I wanted to start hand stitching quicker and knew I needed to learn how to use a thimble. I had to put thimbles *literally* (not figuratively) on all my fingers so that I'd properly use the one finger's thimble I was *supposed* to use. (I found that I used *any* finger without a thimble at first.) Finally, I got into the habit of using the correct finger's thimble and so I was able (finally!) to take off the other thimbles. People think that the only purpose of a thimble is to protect the finger (which it does.) So they try to "build up the callus" (which does *nothing* to speed the sewing) or a leather thimble "because it's more comfortable."
I'd never seen the thimble used that way. I use a closed thimble and I push the needle with the tip of the finger/thimble. This gives more pushing power. But your way is also interesting. I had seen in shops the bottomless thimbles, and I assumed that they were for ladies with very long nails.
I’ve tried various thimbles and never could adjust, they were a hindrance. But the open top thimble looks like it would work better for me. I’ve realized how much I dislike machine sewing, it goes too fast, it’s just...🤬🤬....but hand sewing, I love the control and precision, it’s actually enjoyable, so I’m going to invest in good hand sewing needles and try a new thimble. Thanks for sharing!🙏🏼
Only ever baste or tacking in the seam allowance close to where the seam will be .as you dont want to see holes left in some types of fabric when the basting is removed .
Hi, this is my first time sewing anything else that a badge on a jumper and I was a catastrophe but at least I finished at 3:30 am and not 4:30 xD so a big thanks and good night👍😁
Felicidades 🎊! Eres genial, hermoso y maravilloso! Excelentes videos, todo lo que realizas es precioso! Estoy muy impresionada y te admiro por ello! Feliz año 2021! Gracias por compartir tus maravillas 🌟💫💙
Will have to look up Wawak for their no-top thimbles. I have had several regular thimbles over the years and none fit well: each flares at the open end and that rubs the fourth finger joint as I use the thimble on the middle finger, to the point the fourth finger gets sore. Thanks too for using one size up needle so as to stress the thread less...keeper tip! For running stitch, I tend to "nip" several bits of fabric onto the needle rapidly before pulling the thread through, rocking the right hand holding the fabric so that it helps the needle to hook the fabric. After have been sewing a bit (warmed up -- now I have a term for it!), can even do this when preparing stroked gathers because the right hand can ensure that the needle gets pretty similar nips each time. Also, I avoid using thread any longer than my outstretched arm, and every few sets of stitches hold up the thread and remove accumulated twist; both help prevent kinks before they form. Depending on the thread, waxing helps hold down the kinking, too.
There's also something to consider regarding needles: your hands size. For me as a woman with smaller hands it is not faster to use bigger needles, they are too big and it's hard for me to find a position where I can safely sew.
When I say larger needles...I'm not talking about length. I only use quilting length needles -- Betweens. I'm talking about the size...like, I use a size 5 for most things, a 4 if I'm stitching on wool and a 6 if I'm working on silk. The larger the number, the thinner the needle and smaller the number, the thicker it is. You want to stretch a larger hole for the thread. I do. not like using long needles, I find them difficult to manage...even with my hand-size.
Thank you so much for your videos. I'm a new subscriber and I am working my way through all of your videos. I'm completely enthralled. Thanks so much for making all of them. Can't wait to see more.
I'm so glad to hear that! My analytics don't show a lot of traction, but people seem to really like what I put out! Enjoy! And please, Let me know if you have questions!
Any tips on how to get the blood out of my work? I'm REALLY bad at hand sewing. It goes so slowly when I have to keep stopping to wash my stab wounds and the fabric.
Someone was using a “Doll” needle and I never even knew they existed! Then saw the “Intended” mending needles, the other example was to wear all day until it becomes natural.
I have very short needles that I got a Burnley and Trowbridge and they are just so hard to thread. Any time saved with the short needle is wasted in trying to thread it. I would really love some thread/needle recs for historic sewing...
I recommend getting bigger size needle then. I typically use sizes 4, 5, and 6 for most work. 4 for fabrics like wool which are easy to push the needle through, and thinner needles like 6 or...if I'm desperate, 7 for tightly woven silks and cottons. If you cannot get the thread through the eye easily, then the needle is probably too small and the thread will kink and snarl as you work.
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 I will try these recommendations. Thank you. I spent some time looking online and found someone who is making easier to thread needles that are still quite short. Going to try those special needles in the lengths you rec'd...
Check your local sewing store or online for needle threaders. I know Clover makes an extra-fine one. Or check RUclips for needle threading hacks; there are some ingenious ones which might work for you. Good luck.
great video! can you do a video on how and when to use the different hand sewing techniques for beginners? I dont have a sewing machine but i want to make a costume by hand, and i dont know when to use which stitch say, if i have instructions and patterns for a garment to be made on a sewing machine
You sew like my grandma. She used to say “a seamstress without a thimble , sews little and badly” -It sounds better in Spanish “Costurera sin decal code poco y cose mal” -it rhymes. Wonderful memoriess. Thank you.
I got so comfortable wearing a thimble that I looked at my hand in a grocery store, and I still had my thimble on.
the tip about pinning the fabric to your pants was gold ......... thanks for that tip
Glad it was helpful!
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 GAME CHANGER!! :::)))
I completed my compulsory military service in the 1970's with an obsession for making my own bed first thing when I get out of it, an intolerance for anything but perfect ironing, for wearing only cotton and natural fabric as well as an entirely self-taught skill out of necessity for sewing on buttons, patches and name tags, darning socks and repairs to uniforms. Sewing has been a most useful though mostly secret skill for all of my life while I always thought that some day I should improve the way I do it. Today I finally understand that a thimble is not to protect your opposite hand from the tip of the needle but to rapidly press the back of the needle through the fabric.
As a man who enjoys sewing (welding, art, bricklaying etc. too) this is info I've always wanted - good man.
It's cool to see men sewing and doing fine hand work. People forget that back on the day men were cloth makings, weavers, lace makers and clothing makers for both men and women. They were some of the finest tapestry makers and embroiderers of their time.
You sound like my husband. He's a combat marine vet, a badass In every way imaginable & as well as welding, construction work, & all things "manly" he can sew better than me! Nothing wrong with it at all, more men should know how😉
Brilliant insight, welding, bricklaying, and sod patching, etc, are types of industrial sewing.
@@rebeccafantstegall1899 My dad always knew how to sew and when I asked him how he knew, he told me it was something every US Navy sailor learned how to do, even though they don't have cloth sails to mend any longer! Don't Marines I have similar boot camp to Navy? I wonder if that's where your husband learned to so also....
@@kiki29073 Even today, in India, most tailors (for men's and women's clothing) are men. You should see how carefully they measure your body without touching it, it's an art in itself, LOL!
Mathew my thimble as been my best friend for over 50 yrs,all the sewing I have done with it…how people sew without one I do not know..their fingers must be so sore!
Wow! Learned about thread usage, types of thimbles, stitching… and probably more. Thank you… and thank you to “Commenters” because I often learn a lot from you too. 😌
I'm a LARPer and since having kids, being stuck at a sewing machine trying to make garb has just been impossible. But then i find myself bored on a bench at a playground or a playdate. But I haven't picked up handsewing because I could never get efficient enough to really make anything of quality and in a timely manner. You saying "you need to be quick to work in my shop" gave me 🤩 Yes, teach me these ways.
I prefer to wrap my thread round my needle and slide it down to the end of thread .i find it so much better .and i can control how big a knot i need
The whole thread twist thing, mind blown!
Woohoo! Mission accomplished!
Ditto! 😌
I learned Tailoring in an advanced high school class, & made most of my professional clothes, of course nothing compared to you doing it for a living. Im so glad I found your channel today. The pinning to your jeans to secure your work was simple yet brilliant, loved it. I was saying wow, why didnt I think of that, lol. Anyway, ty for sharing! Im going to watch more of your other videos.
Just found your site and was intrigued as to what you would say. I loved embroidery as a girl and when I left school (aged 15) I went into a tailoring factory in Leeds, Yorkshire, where I was taught hand sewing. However, sewing velour coats was a filthy trade imo and I left for an office job - when I spent 50 years doing. Once I retired I began teaching quilting (by machine) and loved it but it got too heavy for me to lift and manouver. I then moved on to English Paper Piecing and Slow stitching which suits my age better lol. Also I found a place to buy quilter's needles, which are wonderful slithers of metal which sew like lightening. Sorry to burble on but I thought someone may be interested.
I always thought that the thimble when on the left hand so that the needle doesn't poke you 😂😂😂 I learned something new 😂😂😂
Love my thimbles. I have a collection of leather and metal thimbles that I both cherish and use regularly. I have favourite thimbles for different stitching functions. And thin needles for delicate, finely woven fabrics, thicker needles for heavier weights. My grandmother (who taught me to sew and repar clothing, and quilt) said "you can't stitch with a crowbar, but it'll get you through some pretty thick material"!😉
Finally a real tutorial and inspiring hand sewing ❤
I have my great grandmothers sewing kit from over 100 years ago. The needles are so fine I've never been able to buy the thread for them. If I sew very fine silk I harvest the threads from the same material. Thanks for showing us how to use the thimble properly.
I realise this is a super old comment but it might help: for Suxiu, Chinese Suzhou style embroidery, they use incredibly fine silk. It's called "filament silk" and is often split into tinier pieces before threading onto the needles: you might find that suitable for your needles. It can often be found on embroidery thread websites, which will also sell a variety of lighter weight, finer silk threads oftentimes. Good luck!
100 weight silk thread is available in neutral colours - check online for a source near you. That should be thin enough, if you wish to use those heirloom needles. Good luck and happy sewing.
I'm a masters dressmaker from austria and if I sew very lightweight fabric I use the thin needles (No 11 short) because you would see all the holes your needle creates and they will stay visible after sewing. That's why we use thin needles. But if I sew heavier fabrics or wool I use thicker needles because it's simply easier and I don't want to ruin my super thin needles. :D Tailors usually only use the thicker fabrics which aren't as delicate as a silk chiffon or silk satin.
For chiffon and satin, I rarely need to use anything smaller than an 8 or 9 between. You make a good point about the textile choice. Of course each material is different and one should make sure to choose according the needs of the piece. I have used size 5 and 6 on chiffon before and the holes close up when the fabric is steamed...but charmeuse doesn't up as well. Beginners just learning to hand sew entire garments wouldn't be using those fabrics yet. This video is primarily intended for beginners who don't have the experience yet to make those choices.
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 This is very true! And I know this video helped at least some people because a friend was super excited to see your video and sent me the link! And I also learned new things. I always struggeled to sew with a thimble but I want to give it another try now. :) I also think needle sizes come down to personal preferences and how you learned it from your teachers or bosses! When I worked at a theatre my boss did so much different from which I was used to and when I attended a tailoring course in London I again learned different techniques and preferences. And as you said it also always depends so much on the fabric. :)
@@elfenhexchen I'm so glad there was something you gained from the video! Now I have in my to-do list, a video which shows the effect of different needle sizes on finer fabrics. I think it is essential for people to see what it looks when needle holes vanish and when they don't. A tutorial about working with different fabrics is a great idea. Showing people "this is what it is like to hand stitch a chiffon blouse." Or "Here is how you work with a charmeuse without losing your mind." Your comment has really sparked a great conversation! Thank you!
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 This is such a great idea and I'm sure it will help so many people!
I use same thing needles too🙋
Great information and the details excellent. Being a quilter for 20+ years, the use of a thimble, is a must.
I’m fairly certain many individuals, myself included, find when first wearing a thimble. That it’s awkward and feels foreign and quiet cumbersome. This is too be expected.
The individual that taught me to quilt, shared a tip to become comfortable in wearing a thimble. Place thimble on and just wear it. Begin with 30mins several times a day. Increase the time and how often. Wear it especially if you have any handwriting to do, aids in dexterity.
Soon it becomes an ole friend !
One very important tip regarding hand sewing and thread. Thread has a directional twist. Load your needle prior to cutting thread from the spool. Guarantees the correct twist is maintained. Also, makes hand stitching look better and certainly more enjoyable. Less tangles and knots !
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and knowledge.
Best regards !
Wow what a great tip! Those twists and knots annoy me to no end. I’m definitely going to give your tip a try, thank you!
Thank you for this video. Actually now I'm in middle to decide for purchase sewing machine just for fixing cloths only as I had issue about hurting my finger. I learned two things from this video. First is how to use and existing of thimble. I never know thimble before. Second is how to sewing faster by hold one side of cloths to somethings. Maybe I should find some clamp to hold it.
I don't think I need sewing machine at now.
Would really love that video on warm-ups
I feel like I’m five times smarter just after watching this video.
Thank you! I love your dedication to hand crafting as an art and as a means of professional production.
Gentle reminder... we all need the video about warmups.
hahah...thank you for the reminder...I definitely needed it!
Agreed:o when i heard it i thought that is what i need! Not only for my sewing and other hand crafts but also with my job. I do alot of hand work with tiny component's like carfully scrape away glue that needs to be cleaned up. Lot's of tiny movement's lot's of sitting still in the same potition:p.
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 Yes, please do make that video!
I need something better than a Like button for this video. Halfway through this video I turned to my husband and said, "OMG!" And he replied with a huge smile, "Is this video going to change your life?" YES! I hand sew all my family's SCA garb (for fun, not to make it period) and he is not wrong! Thank you so much! (Can you tell I'm excited to try some of these techniques?)
That’s exactly how I felt when watching this!!
This feels so over my head but boy it was a lot better than the other videos I've seen is nice hearing about it from a professional standpoint then some beloved pastime
This is going to sound absolutely ridiculous, but here goes: I had RUclips going for background noise last night. This video popped up on autoplay.
I've been doing French handsewing and lace making for ~20 years. Recently (in my early 30s) I started having pain in my hands after sewing. Not little aches--pain so bad I couldn't sign my name and took days off. I suspected arthritis. Then I saw your video and made a few changes to how I sit and hold my work. I've been working about 12 hours today. No more pain. I've been suffering because of laziness and stupidity. I don't see a warm up video, but I'll be working my way through the channel. Already subbed. Thanks.
I would enjoy talking to you in person about sewing.
After 50 years of industrial sewing now retired and have time to learn haute couture methods. I'm enjoying the process of making my clothes and using hand sewing methods along with my sewing machine. Excellent video and your presentation style and voice a pleasure to listen to.
Outstanding, very clear and concise--thanks for sharing your skills. Also, nothing wrong with your tone.
Thank you for helping me so much! I went back to find your advice again on You Tube because you're so valuable to me. Now I'll subscribe.
The tip about placing a pin through the fabric into my pant leg will make such a difference! ♥ Thank you for taking the time to make this fabulous tutorial and you've earned a new subscriber.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience and knowledge. I learned so much from this one video❤
Oh, my! I’ve always been taught you have to use the tip of your thimble to push! I’ve been putting a stick on one on the side because it worked easier there! Now I gotta get a decent open top one, and see if I can wean myself away from the disposables!
I’ve also been using my granny’s tiny appliqué needles for sewing, because I found it worked easier, with less hand movement than anything else, and they were the best quality I had. I’m glad it’s not just an oddity of my self teaching
Right? It wasn't until I was working as a professional that I learned the closed top thimbles are meant for quilting, embroidery and beading...where the surface is usually stretched in a frame and the needle is meant to be pushed up and down instead of side to side.
Thank you so much for teaching this, learn something new everyday and this is certainly helpful 😊🙏🏻
It's been two years...🥰🤩👆🏾💯 tonality awesome teaching video
I had just started to use my grandmothers thimble in the last month after hearing you speak about it and many others that I really look up to. TOTAL GAME CHANGER! I'm still adjusting but SO glad that I am using a thimble! I think I need to look for a smaller size thimble though. :) LOVE the videos like this! it's great information!
my grandmother born 1901 was a tailor\seamstressshe said they would do one day fancy sewing which took time and then a few days of super fast pieces to make their money.
Thank you for an enlightening video! No one has ever explained how to use a thimble before to my satisfaction. Your demonstration was lucid & clear.
You're very welcome!
Where to find good quality thimbles for big fingers? I’m a carpenter who rock climbs. The biggest I can find in craft shops are too snug for my pinkie finger.
I would order online from tailor/clothing industry supply warehouses...not craft stores. Craft stores are marketed and stocked for older women...with smaller hands. Tailor suppliers, and notions vendors for the clothing industry have no such gender bias in the way they stock their warehouses...I would start looking for thimbles in the 15-16-17 size range...if you can find them in those sizes, that's a good sign that you're on the right track.
Pinning into your pants leg. So simple. Brilliant.
The writing callus example helped me so much! I hold my pen with an odd grip and I tend to want to hold my needle the same way. I switched to a thimble on my ring finger because that's where my callus is and why follow the rules if I'm stitching for myself... INSTANTLY faster and less strain on my hands! Still a little resist to a thimble but now I have a concept of how it should work effectively for me!
Wow ! You brought back so many memories of sewing terms and techniques, I haven't heard in decades . Learning to sew as a thirteen years old , was part of school home economic class in 1970. We started with hand-sewing projects, in which I was always slow and late completing..
2023 10-4 Tuesday 1:32 PM CST...
I just come across your channel I have a wonderful sewing machine my husband bought me of course brand new back in 1986 when we got married and I still use it but when I have to do some sewing and stuff I don't care if it's major you know I hand soap and I always use a symbol... Position
You know you have to have the right tools for the trade as they say and I like what you said about if you don't use a thimble well you know hey that's part of what you need to do your job...
And let me tell you you had no attitude or tone in your voice I like what you said I liked how you said it and there was no need to apologize for that...
You didn't lie you just told us how you felt and that you have a right to do that so keep up the good work kiddo... 😁
This is so so helpful, thank you. I intended to buy sharps but ended up with betweens because they didn't have sharps, and I'm really glad I did: my hands are also tiny so a longer needle would probably hurt to use.
I'm really interested that you use a size 5 which to me sounds massive (although I'm in the UK): I've heard other original practise folks using size 10s and relying on very small, firm stitches for strength. I know they got very enthused about that (tiny stitches with I suppose tiny needles and fine thread) in the 19th century, but I feel like this video is giving me "permission" in a way to throw that idea out and buy slightly larger needles and thicker thread.
The part about using basting *instead* of pins is going to be a game changer: getting my thread stuck on pins has been my chief hand-sewing frustration. For basting straight seams I borrowed the Japanese unshin handsewing technique which makes a straight running stitch go lightning fast, too.
Also I knew about pinning the fabric to myself but was doing it incorrectly so that it kept sliding out: obviously, do it at a right angle! Oops.
I love some original practise but am mostly into handsewing because frankly I loathe dealing with sewing machines: despite a fair bit of practise I just cannot seem to get enough control over the speed with the foot pedal, stop the feed dogs from chewing up my fabric, or avoid tangled thread. I do have some general brain/body coordination issues that might not be helping, but handsewing is much much easier for me, so it's great to see this kind of tutorial on practical efficient techniques.
It think the tradition with Dressmaking was definitely to use very fine needles and thread...owing to the thinness of the silks and fine glazed cottons that were used at the time. Tailors, in contrast, were more likely to use larger needles and thread. BUT...you ALWAYS HAVE PERMISSION to use the tools that suit your own body and needs! Never doubt that! Yes, the materials also dictate, to some extent the size of your needle and thread...I use smaller needles and finer thread when I'm sewing on silks...but nothing so fine as a size 10. My large, strong fingers just bend those needles and I can't work with them. So I use the needles that are right for my body and movement in conjunction with what the fabric needs.
Love the portrait of you on the wall-- who did it? I have a question: how do you keep your line so straight?
The line stays straight for two reasons...lots of practice as well as anchoring the work. It is something you could try if you find it hard to stitch a straight line by hand. It was a game-changer for me. Also...I did the painting on the wall...it was my first-ever self-portrait.
I just subscribed.
The mere fact that you recommended using a thimble is a great beginning.
The internet is lovely for this. Glad to find your channel. Thanks for the work you put into it.
Even after a lifetime sewing, I learn more. Kudos
I had no idea that was how a thimble was used properly - thanks for the info 😊
so happy i came across this video, im takling a long hand project and will be wanting to increase my speed without decreasing my quality. oh what id give for some of my relatives tobe alive still.
Heavens, you're brilliant
Well, Thank you!!
Thank you for this class :) I have a hard time with small needles, my patchwork teacher keeps telling me to use smaller ones but I have clumsy hands and medium needles I can handle better with the thimble. I became accustomed to the sashiko thimble that fits in the space between the finger and extends partially over the palm. It protects well and if you make it sturdy never will allow the neddle to reach skin.
I’ve had piercings and made jewelry for years, I even looked into getting a rolling mill and draw plates to make my own wire, but I never knew thought as to why gauges are numbered in the way that they are. I never would’ve guessed I’d find out when I’m looking into stitching 😂Thanks for all the info!
I was taught to take a different type of basting for slippery material which I assume your silk is. We had to take a normal length stitch then a half length stitch and so on. This meant the fabric was more secure and would not slide.
clever tip, thanks!
I was taught to take a small backstitch every fourth or fifth stitch to prevent sliding. It also builds a tiny bit of give in the stitch line.
I keep trying different thimbles every time I go someplace. Two of my favourites that I've found are a sterling silver one from a historical Rendezvous and an antique one I found by accident one day! Open top ring thimbles seem to be my best choice from modern thimbles, but I've still got to try them on to see if they fit. I totally agree with the thimble distribution ideas!
The one that fits me the best is My grandmothers.
Birdy
I've subscribed and I can't wait to binge a bunch of your content. I've been stitching by hand since childhood, but speed and efficiency were never emphasized as I believe my grandmother and mother had me hand sewing to keep me out of their hair! I also never learned to use a thimble, but now I'm determined to teach my hands this new habit as I'm tired of poking myself and having rough, calloused fingers! Thanks again for your excellent content.
This was very helpful. I'm a keen amateur sewer, but I want to improve and get better. Thanks for sharing your skills with us. I love the tip on pinning to your pant - that's a keeper! BTW there's nothing wrong in your tone. Greetings from North Wales UK
Don't worry about your tone its fine and I like the self portrait on the wall behind you
Thank you so much. Much faster and streamlined than my home sewing. I need this for a few repairs. So pro.
I have thimbles, and tried to use them but didn't know how to. This was very helpful, also knowing that it is difficult to adjust to using the thimble.
That was great! Thank you. I have always struggled not knowing how to correctly hand sew items and was doing way too much work in the process. Even though it is not my most favorite task, I look forward to trying this technique. 👍
Thank you! I must get that type of thimble. Have three, and not one reaches where the needle hits on my finger. Gah!
Just found you, great instruction video, thank you so much!
I love an egg eyed between!!!!!! Thanks for the tip on sizes.
Great, great, great advice!!
I have your Tudor Book! Wow!
I did a City & Guilds in soft furnishings about 18 years ago and not once was there any instruction like this on hand sewing. Thank you!
Thank you for a really informative video.
So happy i found you! You explain basics so carefully and concisely. It makes it easy to understand these concepts that I encounter in other eras...
I design and create cross stitch patterns, I am also a trained costumer. One thing I often notice is that people don't replace their needles often enough and use old pitted needles. I know my mums sewing needles are over 20 years old and I can't/won't use them. I always keep packs of fresh needles in my kit and replace often. Every new cross stitch starts with a new needle and if it's a larger pattern I might replace the needle a couple of tines. The oils and acids in our skin degrades the metal.
I discovered your channel recently and as I am in the middle of my first historical sewing project, your videos are a real goldmine of information! The extremely detailed and patient explanations are lovely, I cannot thank you enough for such an invaluable resource!
Thank you for sharing.,Great. Blessings
A long thin needle so you can lever it to stack running stitches and it easily reaches your thimble.
I think that people don't use thimbles because they are uncomfortable wearing them. I still remember when I wanted to start hand stitching quicker and knew I needed to learn how to use a thimble. I had to put thimbles *literally* (not figuratively) on all my fingers so that I'd properly use the one finger's thimble I was *supposed* to use. (I found that I used *any* finger without a thimble at first.) Finally, I got into the habit of using the correct finger's thimble and so I was able (finally!) to take off the other thimbles.
People think that the only purpose of a thimble is to protect the finger (which it does.) So they try to "build up the callus" (which does *nothing* to speed the sewing) or a leather thimble "because it's more comfortable."
Thank you. Learned from this video and I’m a senior! Subscribed immediately.
🌲🌝☘️
This was very helpful. Learned from this video. Thank you!
I'd never seen the thimble used that way. I use a closed thimble and I push the needle with the tip of the finger/thimble. This gives more pushing power. But your way is also interesting. I had seen in shops the bottomless thimbles, and I assumed that they were for ladies with very long nails.
Great info, thank you!
Love your instruction. Not to mention the guitar at the end...
Picked up quite a few hints and tips!
I’ve tried various thimbles and never could adjust, they were a hindrance. But the open top thimble looks like it would work better for me. I’ve realized how much I dislike machine sewing, it goes too fast, it’s just...🤬🤬....but hand sewing, I love the control and precision, it’s actually enjoyable, so I’m going to invest in good hand sewing needles and try a new thimble.
Thanks for sharing!🙏🏼
Only ever baste or tacking in the seam allowance close to where the seam will be .as you dont want to see holes left in some types of fabric when the basting is removed .
Thank you
Hi, this is my first time sewing anything else that a badge on a jumper and I was a catastrophe but at least I finished at 3:30 am and not 4:30 xD so a big thanks and good night👍😁
Very cool. Thankyou
Felicidades 🎊! Eres genial, hermoso y maravilloso! Excelentes videos, todo lo que realizas es precioso!
Estoy muy impresionada y te admiro por ello!
Feliz año 2021!
Gracias por compartir tus maravillas 🌟💫💙
BRILLIANT!! I am so appreciative of your detailed explanation of some of the basics. This really elevates hand sewing to an art.
Ahhhh this intro!
Will have to look up Wawak for their no-top thimbles. I have had several regular thimbles over the years and none fit well: each flares at the open end and that rubs the fourth finger joint as I use the thimble on the middle finger, to the point the fourth finger gets sore. Thanks too for using one size up needle so as to stress the thread less...keeper tip!
For running stitch, I tend to "nip" several bits of fabric onto the needle rapidly before pulling the thread through, rocking the right hand holding the fabric so that it helps the needle to hook the fabric. After have been sewing a bit (warmed up -- now I have a term for it!), can even do this when preparing stroked gathers because the right hand can ensure that the needle gets pretty similar nips each time. Also, I avoid using thread any longer than my outstretched arm, and every few sets of stitches hold up the thread and remove accumulated twist; both help prevent kinks before they form. Depending on the thread, waxing helps hold down the kinking, too.
There's also something to consider regarding needles: your hands size. For me as a woman with smaller hands it is not faster to use bigger needles, they are too big and it's hard for me to find a position where I can safely sew.
When I say larger needles...I'm not talking about length. I only use quilting length needles -- Betweens. I'm talking about the size...like, I use a size 5 for most things, a 4 if I'm stitching on wool and a 6 if I'm working on silk. The larger the number, the thinner the needle and smaller the number, the thicker it is. You want to stretch a larger hole for the thread. I do. not like using long needles, I find them difficult to manage...even with my hand-size.
Thank you so much for your videos. I'm a new subscriber and I am working my way through all of your videos. I'm completely enthralled. Thanks so much for making all of them. Can't wait to see more.
I'm so glad to hear that! My analytics don't show a lot of traction, but people seem to really like what I put out! Enjoy! And please, Let me know if you have questions!
That was awesome. Thanks for the lesson.
Beautiful work and great tips. This is helpful info for a current project. Thank you!
Thank you so much, these are excellent tips...
Any tips on how to get the blood out of my work? I'm REALLY bad at hand sewing. It goes so slowly when I have to keep stopping to wash my stab wounds and the fabric.
Someone was using a “Doll” needle and I never even knew they existed! Then saw the “Intended” mending needles, the other example was to wear all day until it becomes natural.
Where would you find a good thimble?
Your tone is fine. On mesaage.
I have very short needles that I got a Burnley and Trowbridge and they are just so hard to thread. Any time saved with the short needle is wasted in trying to thread it. I would really love some thread/needle recs for historic sewing...
I recommend getting bigger size needle then. I typically use sizes 4, 5, and 6 for most work. 4 for fabrics like wool which are easy to push the needle through, and thinner needles like 6 or...if I'm desperate, 7 for tightly woven silks and cottons. If you cannot get the thread through the eye easily, then the needle is probably too small and the thread will kink and snarl as you work.
@@themodernmakermathewgnagy215 I will try these recommendations. Thank you. I spent some time looking online and found someone who is making easier to thread needles that are still quite short. Going to try those special needles in the lengths you rec'd...
Check your local sewing store or online for needle threaders. I know Clover makes an extra-fine one. Or check RUclips for needle threading hacks; there are some ingenious ones which might work for you. Good luck.
great video! can you do a video on how and when to use the different hand sewing techniques for beginners? I dont have a sewing machine but i want to make a costume by hand, and i dont know when to use which stitch say, if i have instructions and patterns for a garment to be made on a sewing machine
How do you protect your finger underneath from the point of the needle when you go through the fabric?