The Japanese Hand-Sewing Technique "unshin"
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- This video share my experience on how to master the kimono hand-sewing art "unshin". Even a kimono teacher I am not a kimono tailor! Please understand, that I am only showing you how to don "unshin".
And please excuse the orange fabric. I ran out of white and because everybody is using white cotton in this pandemic, I couldn't purchase any white cotton. 🙈
Thank you so much for watching!!
Meet me on Patreon in an online kimono workshop twice a month!
/ billymatsunaga
You wanna know more about kimono? Find more on my blog.
→ kumakimonokoi.... ←
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Music:
"Mizuki" by Bad Snacks
"Kimono Life" by Sondey
Intro Soundeffect:
Kabuki Shout ち音楽堂 (www.c-ongaku.co...)
As this pops up in the comments: I do *not* think that a “seamstress” is unskilled. I simply do not like the word. For me every seamstress is a tailor and should be called so.
just found you and already love your content. I'm not trying to be rude or anything and I personally would like to be told rather than keep making the same mistake over and over again. You actually say "thump" which as a noun means "a heavy dull blow" when you mean Thumb "the short, thick first digit of the human hand" there is a B sound at the end rather than a P. English isn't my first language and I know things like this happens.
I think that the term you are looking for is dressmaker. A skilled seamstress that specializes in the creation of dresses or gowns for evening wear.
Hi! I just discovered you! Great content!
May I ask what is your native language?
(Mine is German and here, a seamstress and a tailor are considered two different professions. The difference lies, roughly said, in handcrafting - using pre-made patterns - vs creating from scratch.)
In English-speaking countries, dressmaking and tailoring are words used for different areas of expertise--tailoring is suits, dressmaking is women's garments like dresses, skirts and blouses. I guess similar to in Japan how kimonos and other sewing are separate words!
@@lnorlnor Ah that's interesting!
Regarding the Japanese words that were presented in the video, the prefix "wa" as in "wasai" stand for "traditional Japanese" while the "yo" (as in "yosai") stands for "came from Europe back then". These prefixes can also be used before other words, such as yofuku vs wafuku, so _yofuku_ (lit. "European clothing") is nowadays used for "normal, everyday" clothing like suits, jeans, t-shirt, dresses etc vs _wafuku_ which stands for traditional Japanese clothing like kimono, yukata etc.
the difference I've been taught between dressmaking/seamstressing and tailoring in western fashion is actually the way the pattern is made. tailoring is done by flatdrafting with measurements, while dressmaking is done by draping fabric onto the figure. the history for how dressmaking came to be is actually super interesting: prior to the turn of the 17th century tailors dominated clothing (women's and men's) but once the structural garment became separate from the dress bodice, "mantua makers" were able to make clothes using draping techniques over the stays and still achieve the fashionable silhouette. this allowed women to enter the clothing trade, because tailors were strictly all men and could enforce that all people profiting from tailoring were part of the tailors' guild. but since mantua making used different techniques, women could legally enter the market as tradespeople in their own right. I'm very proud to use the label of (aspiring) dressmaker and seamstress because that trade is the descendant of mantua making!
Haute couture fashion at the big houses, like Chanel, still divide the line into tailored vs draped garments, and have separate studios for each! There's some great videos of the seamstresses talking about the methods
We have to distinguish between clothesmaking for average people and the wealthy. For the well-to-do, clothing patterns have existed since the 16th century in Spain. They were published in books where the styles for men, women, children, the clergy and knights were illustrated and specific instructions were provided to create them. This was driven by the economic growth at the time in Spain, boosted by their empire. Fit became more affordable, and no longer restricted to the very wealthy. As wealth flowed into Europe, more books were published concentrating on professional tailoring. Home sewers would have to resort to form fitting if they were either untrained or had no access to books like these. For most thir clothing was utilitarian, and fit was less important. It wouldn't be until the 19th century with the creation of the tape measure and the establishment of popular magazines providing full scale patterns for home sewers that replicating the newest fashions that catered for a 3d fit of the human body at home became tenable. Once the tools, the materials, and knowledge became available both genders entered the trade. In Britain, the records of the trade unions show that men and women were tailors. Tailoring was never limited to men alone. What was limited was the ability for women to establish their own businesses, as the social and legal norms prohibited women owning property in their own right until the middle of the 19th Century in Britain. So, men dominated the profession, and were keen to distinguish themselves from the mostly female informal home dressmakers and the piece-rate seamsters and seamstresses who did outwork at home making up garments for clothing businesses, but not finishing them at home. So, seamstresses were experienced in making up, but could not draft or make patterns, so were paid much less than tailors who could. The difference was enough that some did supplement their income by prostitution, but not all. But the stereotype stuck, and the gender norms too. So, technically and socially there have been divisions between the roles in the industry, and snobbery too. But, perhaps the distinction should die in the 21st century as everyone now can learn how to draft and use patterns for making clothes. Effectively, everyone is a tailor now at home and in industry.
Cheers!
so ... the Japanese took a simple technique (running stitch, or darning garments) and made an art of it .. _of course_ they did ! They also took taking your lunch to work to the next level with the Bento boxes.
There seems to be this mentality in Japanese culture of, "If we're gonna do, we're gonna do it right!" And that means dedicating yourself to whatever it is you choose to do. It's an amazing concept in my opinion.
There's also an artform of creating beautiful embroidery using running stitch in the state of West Bengal in India. This traditional art of embroidery is called kantha stitch (since they're traditionally used to make a type of small blanket called kantha, but they're also used in other ways.) I still haven't watched most of the video, but I'm guessing both you and the video may be talking about the Japanese method of running stitch embroidery called sashiko. I love both kantha stitch and sashiko, and although they're both basically forms of running stitch, they have different methods and rules of stitching to achieve the greatest results. I love both artforms.
Edit: oh so she was indeed teaching sashiko unshin. That's awesome
@@sashizakura9124 there’s more than one way to do a thing
@@sashizakura9124 actually, i started watching the video and as soon as she mentioned it, i went out and looked to buy a thimble ring because that just seems so much more comfortable than a regular thimble
a friend of mine told me "perfection" in their language means something you keep developing and improving, rather than some unattainable goal. I feel like that explains their approach to this a lot.
I am a seamstress who has also done a bit of tailoring. They are two different skill sets. I really like being a seamstress and want to be known as such.
Apparently I've been sewing my medieval dresses in unshin style. (Medieval clothes were also sewn with a running stitch punctuated by the occasional backstitch. Even my dresses which fit very tightly hold up in the seams--although flat-felling the seam allowance is also a major reason why. They had ring thimbles in the middle ages, too,)
SCA?
Keri, thank you for mentioning flat-felling. I now know how to do it after looking up a video about how to do this!
@@storeytwinb Try Bernadette Banner's channel. Not only does she hand-sew, she will show how to flat fell. And she's just a lovely person.
I'd love to see Keri !!!
It makes sense as both are old styles of sewing before sewing machines. With modern sewing machines even embroydery is possible. The first sewing machines only made straight or a running stitch that could go back and forth. There wasn't even a zizzag stitch at the time. As someone who learned embroydery
from a teacher, you have all kinds of embroydery stitches, and those could be used if wished in sewing clothes. The stitch possiblity is quite large all in all.
My grandma uses this stitch all the time for making our culture traditional clothing! She taught me and I never knew it was the unshin technique! A lot of people don’t know but this stitch is faster than using a back stitch and more stronger but you would have to stitch the fabric twice. But I like the idea of unshin being faster and stronger even though you have to do it at least twice! And like you said it’s not meant to hurt or ruin the fabric!
I learned to sew by hand when I was a child. My sister and I would tighten our skirts and hem pants and dresses as needed. I watched this because I am interested in everything. The moving of the fabric back and forth is a very efficient way to do sew. I very seldom sew by hand anymore, but I won't forget this technique the next time I need to make any adjustments to a garment. Thank you.
My mom was a seamstress who apprenticed with a professional dressmaker. She could do anything but not men’s tailored things because that was for a tailor. She made beautiful clothing including complicated jackets but men’s clothes were different.
MY MOMMY WAS VERY SKILLED BUUUHUUUU
❤️❤️❤️
To be a seamstress is not insulting at all. It means that you are very skilled.
Yeah it’s my understanding seamstress was just the word for a female Taylor🤷♀️
I'm proud of my sewing skills!!!!!
Traditionally Tailors are classed as skilled workers, seamstresses are not because of the differentiation between the type of work each does, this is of course rubbish! But seamstress does carry some of that meaning still, it’s also very gendered so most people I know prefer the term sewist, tailors can be any gender and it refers to the type of work done
@@VirginiaSunrise11
* Tailor *
@@beautybloggerxoxox Or “seamster.”
You know, like “teamster.”
Seamstresses and Seamsters (male name) work directly with the making of a garment. Tailors alter base garments. For instance; when a man gets a fancy suit he will pick a blank which was made by a seamstress/seamster. Then a tailor will alter that blank to be personalised to the individual. Tailors can sew blanks and seamstresses/seamsters can tailor garments, they just choose to stick to specific tasks as a part of specialisation. Women generally made women's clothes and men generally made men's clothes, both if which could be either fitted or not. Nowadays the lines have blurred.
Tailoring in Britain has been about making men's garments. So a tailor was anyone who worked making men's clothing: warwick.ac.uk/services/library/mrc/archives_online/digital/tradeboard/tailors. Seamstresses however, were considered unskilled because they were often working informally from home and making and mending clothing for women and children. Women working in the tailoring industry would never be called seamstresses. They were known as tailoresses. The snobbery came from the scapegoating of the urban female unskilled and seamstresses piece‐rate clothing workers as prostitutes in the 19th century. In present day, the the gender separation still exists to a large degree, with very few women working in tailoring. So, no professional working female in the custom clothing industry would be happy to be called a seamstress even now, and synonyms for female garment workers abound. Old habits die hard.
It used to be illegal for women to be tailors because they had a guild and the rule was no women allowed. It’s applying geometry to a flat surface vs draping over form. Masculine clothing is almost all straight lines. Women’s fitted clothing had basically only curves plus a shit ton of draping and appliqué.
They are still separate disciplines, you have to pick between them if you go to fashion school. You can specialize even further of course.
Thank you for sharing this! This 90 degree fabric wiggle is how my grandmother taught me to gather for smocking etc. though, of course we wouldn’t spread it out afterwards. She was super quick doing it. I’m astonished to think that kimono are 98% running stitch, but when the stitch is fine and so long, it would be almost like adding an extra weft to join the fabric well (sorry, I also weave so my brain goes there.)
This looks like a very fast technique once you get the hang of it ;) Of course your granny was super used to doing it so it became 2nd nature to her.
Thank you, thank you thank you....I have kimono fabric bolts that I would like to sew, starting with Yukata and I have been looking for a video to help me learn. I know you are not a kimono tailor, but this is the closest thing I have found in English to how to accomplish this technique. You are an angel to even post this little bit. I have been sewing for many years, but this is different. I will practice a bit and see what I can accomplish the rest of this year.
hi! thanks for your lovely comment! I know that there is a lack of information in English about tailoring a kimono. I'm not a pro, but I want to share more and more about kimono sewing on my channel. So please stay with me! 💛
I would like to buy this type of fabric, do you sell it? Keep up the great work.
I sew 12th and 18th centuries clothing, and this technique is absolutely fascinating. I need to give it a try.
this is so interesting, hope you're going to make more sewing videos because you're literally the only English resource on RUclips on that topic!
Yeah, I know... that’s why I want to add more sewing videos, but slowly. Because I’m still not a professional 🙈🙈
Yes!!! PLEASE MAKE MORE VIDEOS!!!!!
I tried sewing like this a couple times bc I thought in theory it was faster than going in and out. Couldn’t get the hang of it and faster for a small project to just do it traditionally. Now that I see it’s a thing and DOES take practice, I’ll try it again. Thank you 🥰
Orange fabric was fine and more interesting than plain white. Good that you used a color thread or we wouldn’t have been able to see your stitches. Very clear video Thanks!
I've seen unshin used in hand piecing patchwork. When the seamstress is skilled said to be fast as sewing machine. I was given sewing kit with thimble ring and thought it was odd. Last year, I went to store which sold Daiso products one purchase was set of ring things one metal, plastic and leather the other just leather. I use the ring thimble for English paper piecing patchwork which involves whip stitch and is slow but meditative. I do other crafts besides sewing. Sewing is great skill to have for mending and making fabric items. Unshin is used in sashiko as well. I'm too busy with patchwork to do other projects unless I feel like doing something else.
Thank you for the instruction! I have an old haori that’s started to come apart, so I should probably practice this so I can resew it...I hadn’t known before what sort of stitch was used for the seams, so this video was helpful. Also, that komon is so pretty! I love the yellow dandelions on it!
Thank you! Yeah, this kimono is really special 🧡 and have fun trying this stitching method 😉
Perfection this was very educational my living in Japan for many many years I viewed people sewing like this and I never knew how they did it now I will try it
Loving the fact that you can learn so ething new everyday.👌
Thank you for showing it to us. I love hand-sewing and I can see the precision on the stitch. I will try it.
This reminds me of the Sashiko stitch that I have seen. Thank you for this tutorial as it demonstrates the technique really well and I have finally seen the “ring thimble” in more detail. 🥰
I’m so grateful I found your youtube channel & instagram! You’re such an inspiration ;; thank you for what you share
I remember discovering that technique for myself at school, and being scolded by the nuns. I wish I could have told them "It's not wrong, it's 'unshin'!".
Haha oh no ♡
This was very interesting as I love sewing of all sorts. I was thinking the closest thing I have done in comparison is the quilter's rocking stitch using a between size needle (8-10). However, I loved that you were able to go so very fast. Thank you for teaching this technique as well as a compliment on your beautiful kimono you are wearing. It's snowing here in October and this already gives me a bright burst of color on a dreary day. Being a seamstress is a talent and we need to value the talents of women. Somehow we call men tailors and it sounds more prestigious.
how lovely to discover this you tube clip. Thank you. Learning every day
Your kimono is beautiful, and you are very beautiful. Thank you for showing this technique and explaining the reason in great detail.
I am interested in your thimble ring! I have never even seen one before but I am happy that I did! That looks more sensible to me than a regular thimble.
Great video! Now? On with the search for a ring thimble! Thanks!
The Japanese way of teaching is so precise!!! Wow. I am just bowled over by how precise you explain it, I can only imagine how you were taught.
And the cautiousness with how you stress that you are an amateur, the difference between a kimono teacher and a tailor, I can tell it takes courage for you to show this video and this is an age-old craft with many masters and judgement standards that you might not want to infringe on.
Thank you for the courage to show us. It's like an art watching you explain and work and I can feel your passion and respect for the art and I too are mystified -- i certainly didn't know that kimonos are unstitched before washing and then re-tailored after wash!! 😱😱😱
You look so beautiful in this ensemble. The wonderful patterns on the fabric really emanate a sense of joy and playfulness. I love it. And the obi as well as the obidome (which I'm trying to catch a glimpse of) are truly a feast for the eyes. Your hair and makeup are also perfect. Very inspiring.
Great information too. You're so patient. Thank you Billy. I love love love your channel
I have loved watching your videos so far! I feel like this technique is so much better than how I would normally hand sew running stitches, so I will definitely give this a try! Just have to figure out a thimble situation loll!
Thank you for your video. This is how I always do my running stitch, but without the thimble. Very efficient ☺️.
You rock, Billy!!! I am going to make my own Kimono for my wedding. I want to make it myself. You are an inspiration and a real teacher, despite not being a tailor, you are so kind to take on this challenging task and for teaching us history and about kimono. Arigato gozaimasu.
Love your kimono, Billy! So colorful and refreshing. Thank you for the video. Very helpful!
Thank you, dear 😘
i wish i had found your channel sooner! im a nissei living the US and while im interested in learning more about my culture it’s so difficult to find resources in english
Love your kimono! Looks so good on you. Thanks for the video.
I don't take what was said in the video about seamstress versus tailor personally... I love that it's stressed that it's just an OPINION! We all have them! In the US, some of the more well known sewing organizations have classes in master tailoring, seamstress and alterations. I am currently pursuing those ideas and LOVE learning techniques from all around the world in different cultures and it's amazing how much you think you know, but really don't! SO INFORMATIVE!
This has been the only comment i found that shows graciousness by trying to understand...instead of the "MY MOMMY IS VERY TALENTED HOW DARE"
I feel really bad for Billy that this was the video that blew up for her. The ONE that she accidentally touch a nerve on people. Hand sewing's not even her specialty. The algorithm is weird and people are mean on the internet. O well ☆♡☆♡☆
Oh! How interesting technique! So that's the right way to use that ring thimble! Thank you for share it! Hugs from Uruguay :)
This was very interesting!!
I'm learning how to sew to be a seamstress, so seeing different techniques is really cool :D
Thank you!
Just found your channel a few days ago- although I have been haunting RUclips w. all kinds of Japanese topic searches. So glad I found you.I need all your inspiration and suggestions. This video is so interesting as I prefer hand-sewing, which is good because my machine broke. Now I won't bother having it fixed- I never enjoyed using it anyway.
I am so so so happy I found your channel.
Your videos are beautiful, extremely educational, and something I now look forward to!
I can't wait to get fabric and make a lot of projects while implementing my embroidery skills^^
Oh!!! Thank you so, so much!! Your comment really means a lot to me, because these videos really make a lot of work. Embroidery is such a nice hobby. I hope I'll have a chance one day and get better at it.
All I can think is what would Bernadette think of this?
appalled, and probably stressed due to research...
I suspect she'd be impressed with the efficient speed of the mastered technique. Great for an even gathered stitch.
Watching this explains why sashiko and noro stitches are so even.
@@michellebyrom6551 I agree. This speeds up the sewing process like crazy! I need to try this with my next seam
Any excuse to hand stitch and not use the dreaded sewing machine although bernadette does seem to be enjoying her victorian hand sewing machine
@Layne Martin - Non sequitur. This is a modern Japanese stitching technique for a specific garment type, not one of the period western stitches Ms Banner loves to use on period reproduction western garments. I'm sure that she would admire the skill.
I love the ring thimble. Where can I purchase one?
Beautifully presented. Tks.
what a beautiful kimono ! and the obi !!! thank you for this delightful video !, I was allways wondering how does it actually work - unshin.
Omg thank you so much. I couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong. The detailed description here was so helpful!
The motion of this technique looks like it would make cartridge pleating an absolute dream once perfected--fast stitches and you wouldn't have to drag the thread near as much after the final row, either.
I subscribed so fast. Your channel is wonderful!
This technique is so awesome! My cat is gonna be so disappointed when he can't hide in my too-long curtains anymore 🤣
Lol my cat doesn't hide in them, she sits directly on the spot I'm working xD
Cats are ambush predators. That's why they like to hide in boxes and behind or up on doors, etc. So you could make her a little cat tent, put it up high somewhere where she can watch .
@@susanpendell4215 my cat now understands when I'm working on something so she either will shift over slightly when I need to work exactly where she is or she'll stay there and be OK with me pressing/ shoving gently into her side. If she get reallllly in the way I'll put aside a piece of fabric for her to sit on but it's actually really cute the arrangement we have. It's nice having a sewing supervisor. It feels like I get to sew with my cat!
@@platyadmirer Ha ha ha
This is very similar to the quilting stitch. I like the thimble that you are using, it seems very well suited to the running stitch. That’s what I have learned in the first few minutes of your video! Can’t wait to see what I’ll learn going forward!
Love that thimble ring, never heard of it before. I make a lot of miniature dolls and animals and that would save my fingers from the tiny needles I use. I love hand sewing, too, can travel with it and keep busy. ❤️
Clover makes an adjustable ring thimble for $4. Available on Amazon US.
This is how we in India do from our childhood. No one teaches us but we watch our mother/sister do it and it comes automatically to us, that too without ring...and we don't get hurt our fingers. Proud to say this. ❤️
Awesome!!
What is the device that you have clamped to the table that helps hold tension on the fabric? I couldn’t understand its name. Would you please spell it out and or tell us where we might be able to find such a thing? Thank you!
Can any Japanese language speakers help please?
Its just a clamp. You can get a variety at a hardware store
If you wanna pay more for a nifty japanese one, its called kakehari or kakebari. Theyre for sale on Etsy looks like
This technique looks like it would be very fast once mastered. I couldn't do it for an entire garment due to problems in my hands (I had carpal tunnel surgery and now I think I'm getting arthritis), but it would definitely be useful for hemming skirts. The kimono you're wearing is very pretty, I love the cheerful colors!
I've been looking for the thimble ring like yours for some time now. Do you have a link to the thimble ring that you use?
If you live anywhere near a Daisy store they carry these and they are about $2
The kimono you're wearing is beautiful. I agree with your thoughts on the term "seamstress" and dislike the term "sewist" even more. "Dressmaker" is my preferred term after a lifetime of sewing starting with doll clothes as a girl to most of my own wardrobe today. I wonder, now that technology has improved so much, are kimono still unpicked to be cleaned? What about the everyday, cotton kimono, is it sewn by machine and tossed in the washer?
Some kimono are washable! Japan Objects sells them. Billy has done vids for th before. Theyre a kitsuke shop aimed at foreigners like us
Silk, however, can never be washed and must be picked apart.
what an interesting topic! I love kimono and know they are all hand-sewn so this video was very interesting. Your kimono is becoming on you (bright & happy pattern & I 💚 the color/pattern).
It seems strange that a kimono teacher isn't required to sew at least some basic kimono. All the same, thank you for sharing this lovely and fun video, and I just love how bright your beautiful kimono is today!
ETA: Tailor and Seamstress are very skilled professions, which require a lot of professional skill. In the USA, a real tailor or seamstress is very much a respected professional with serious education.
A seamstress is what one would be before you are a full skilled tailor. But ppl say they are tailors even without the needed experience and edication.
You must have an incredible dexterity! What an art! Thank you!
Amazing! Thank you so much for sharing!
Ah, I am intrigued with your thimble ring. They are not available in the US that I know of. Do you know where I could get one?
Probably in a sewing supply store that sells Japanese items (clover had them in leather and metal)... or you could try to make yourself one out of leather.
Very interesting video. You did a great job of teaching how it is done.
Also, I love your kimono in this video! It's so leafy and pretty!
大変興味深い動画をありがとうございました。日本人でありながら、きちんと和裁の運針を勉強したことはなく、普通の学校の家庭の授業で少し基本的なものを習っただけです。でも、祖母は着物世代で、自分の着るものを自分で縫い、解いて洗い、張って干し、再度仕立てていました。(ところで、着ておられるお着物、本当にきれいでお似合いですね！)
Thank you for showing that technique. Hopefully faster than mine. Now to find a ring thimble.
Your kimono colors are very cheery.
Colourful beautiful wear you have.
Good teaching too
Modista is a woman, sastre would be a tailor, and in Mexico usually a man. There is a difference in the two because one is a much more detailed way to sew. However a modista can make her own patterns.there are many different levels of expertise! Practice makes perfect!
We don’t have ring thimbles here... that i know of.
And... I always wondered how to sew a straight line!! Wow! Thank you !
I love the fabric of the Kimono you are wearing.
The garment you are wearing is lovely.
Thank you so much for this video and going to the trouble of wearing your beautiful kimono with complimentary ikebana. Gorgeous! 😍 I learned this technique by observation when I lived in japan as a young student, but I wasn’t a sewer then and never learned the finer points. You have explained them perfectly. Much appreciated. ❤️
How many years did it take you to take the kimono tailor test?
Thank you 🙏
Thank you for sharing a new skill to try for myself.
Liebe Billy,
nachdem ich mich durch alle Kommentare gegraben habe (schade, dass sich hier so viele an Nebensächlichen aufhängen…), möchte ich eine Frage stellen, die augenscheinlich noch nicht beantwortet wurde: Verwendet Unshin am Beginn und Ende einer Naht eine bestimmte Technik zum Verriegeln?
Ich komme ursprünglich aus dem Patchwork und Quilting Bereich, und insbesondere beim Quilten verwendet man einen Knoten namens „Quilters Knot“ und auch eine spezielle Art, das Fadenende später verschwinden zu lassen. Als ich diesen Knoten lernte, habe ich mich ehrlich gefragt, wo der mein ganzes Leben war, weil es den Nahtbeginn so erleichtert. Daher interessiert mich die japanische Technik sehr.
Das Resultat von Unshin scheint dem Quilting-Stich sehr ähnlich zu sein, auch wenn die Techniken verschieden sind (wobei das vermutlich auch den dickeren Lagen beim Quilten geschuldet ist). Aber es sieht so schnell aus, dass ich es unbedingt erlernen will. 😍
Das Quilten habe ich vor Jahren anhand einer Decke geübt, die ich flächendeckend im Seigaiha-Muster überquiltet habe. Das waren zwei schöne Wochen über Weihnachten, deren Abende ich bei meinen Eltern auf dem Sofa vor dem Fernseher gearbeitet habe. Hinterher klappte das mit dem Quilten. Vielleicht sollte ich ein ähnliches großes Stoff für die Unshin-Übungen vernähen. 😂
Loved this video, so informative. I am a bit taken aback that you did not think Seamstress a worthy word for females who sew. My Grandmother was known as a Seamstress/Dressmaker and she was the only women in her town who owned her own business and shop making clothing for the local ladies, their children and even at times their husbands. She was highly skilled and extremely well trained by her original employer and was also adept (from what I have been told) at tailoring and could make a full three tailored piece suit, jackets and morning suits, evening suits etc for men. As she was working in the late 1800’s early 1900’s I can imagine the extent of skill needed to create those amazing dresses, gowns, day clothes and men’s clothing etc required by women in the years surrounding the two great wars. I never met her, sadly she died long before I was born. However her skills came through the line and I do not know a time I did not sew. First taught by my mother; her daughter, my teaching was also supplemented my other surviving Grandmother and school teachers and eventually I went to College and studied Fashion Design. In the 1970’s my education veered heavily on learning how to be an all round creative, thinking designer, a quick industrial seamstress and also to fully understanding flat pattern making for commercial industry. All my couture techniques were taught me by the highly skilled women in my family as well as additional classes that I took. Interestingly in my country, Seamstress was a term highly thought of and was only used for commercial sewing workers and recognised small business/ Dressmakers. Home sewing however referred to more basic sewing skills. I don’t know whether seamstress is a highly respected today. I have always used it interchangeably with fine sewing but not couture as that is another skill lever all together. I sew as if I am a couture Sewist. However I am aware that term can only be applied by the Syndical in Paris, France. I am not French. There is a lot of requirements to be awarded the term couture Sewist.
Anyway, all that aside. I studied Japanese Kimono and it’s History at College and had no idea as to how the unique seams were created because back in the 70’s that information was not so readily available. This video has been so informative and really enjoyable to both watch and learn from, I appreciate your knowledge and insight into the way these extraordinarily beautiful garments were and still are created.
Interesting. I never knew that there was a sewing method distinction.
I have just came across your channel and I absolutely love anything to do with sewing, but especially hand sewing, I have my own sewing machine but I do prefer to put my time and skill into sewing by hand.
I need to say, that your reference to seamstresses as only unqualified people, I find this really demeaning, there's loads of people who call themselves a seamstress who are highly skilled and qualified dressmaker/ taylors
I have never taken a sewing class in my life and randomly bought a sewing machine last October. After many mishaps and learning how to sew from videos and online, whoever says a seamstress, tailor, or a dressmaker needs to sew themselves has no clue what they’re talking because what we think is simple is so not true. 😂
Thank for this video. I’m currently making a kimono and let’s just say i separated the back and front and that was a big NO. This video will help me when I upgrade from yukata sewn from a machine. 😂
This was very clear & understandable, thank you very much
Hi Billy, I really want to be able to see this better, but the orange fabric reflects too much light. Navy blue w a white thread would have shown the stitches much better! Someday perhaps, you will do another on this subject, and meanwhile THANK YOU for this subject. My new favorite sew technique to try :)
I love your watch😍😍
Wow, that is a gorgeous garment you are wearing! I am a seamstress who can tailor, all the way from children's clothing to dresses to mens suits, to wedding gowns (I've sewn nine!). I appreciate your attention to detail and carefulness with your explanation of the differences between Kimono Teacher and Kimono Tailor. From my experience, the best garments come from people who care most about craftsmanship, and that takes dedication and time to develop.
I agree, there is nothing derogatory about being called a "Seamstress". I'm proud of it. To my way of thinking, there are Seamstresses, and then there are "sewists". A sewist is someone who thinks she or he can sew because they know how to maneuver fabric between a foot and a feed dog to attatch a few pieces of fabric together. But a Seamstress will take her time, carefully lining up, pinning, stitching, clipping, grading, under-stitching, reinforcing, and especially pressing the whole way through, to make a garment that will look fabulous and last a long time.
Beautiful Kimono btw
That's funny to see that I already know the technique but I don't use the ring ! your video is relaxing btw.
Yeah, it's like preferring using a thimble or not. I do prefer it, as I was told so. :)
Great instruction! I have several haori that must be undone before washing. I know dry-cleaning is recommended but traditionally, my mother told me hoari was taken apart, washed & re-sewn back together. Thanks for the tips!
yes, they were. That is what i talked about in the video "araihari". But they use a special method to dry the silk so it won't shrink. You should check that out, too ;)
@@BillyMatsunaga If you have time to address the shrinking issue in a future video, that would be very helpful 💖💖💖
Thank you for the informative video ! 💞
I enjoyed this sewing technique lesson. I would like to know the name of the gadget that holds the fabric in place. Where can I get that clip you clamp onto the table? I find it very curious that a kimono has to be taken apart for cleaning, then resewn. Why is that?Last question - can't a kimono be sewn on a sewing machine? At least if sewing for ourselves? Thank you Billy.
Something lost in the depths of my memory says that clip is called a bird of some sort. Like I said, lost. Or just buried.
I just happened on this. That's a very interesting way of dewing. I'm going to try this from now on. It looks easyer and fadter than the way I was taught.
In my country, this type of handsewing is called as "jelujur". Smaller gap is called as "jelujur halus" and the bigger gap is called as "jelujur kasar". Kimono garments are large, the probability for it to got torn from oversize wearer or daily activities is really rare thus this handsewing technique is really suitable for kimono.
I'm sorry if anyone feel offended by the "oversize" term I used here. In my opinion, if I'm 20 but still trying to fit in my kindergarten uniform eventho I know I can't cuz I've grown, it means I'm oversize cuz I can't fit in it.
The fabric of your kimono is amazing. I want a business shirt out of that fabric
Thats incredible!!!! I may try to pick this up when Im doing hand sewn dress seams!! So fast. Which like you said makes so much sense the relation to the literal 'years' of fabric you would have to sew. So so so cool
Thank you so much for such an informative video.
Thank you so much! This is an incredible helpful video!
What a tiny needle for tiny stitches. Thank you for sharing. Your accent tells me you are not a native English speaker which makes your vid more special. 🥰
Not everyone can sew and it takes skill. I believe its an art and therefore should be called artist!
No wonder so many Japanese are excellent hand quilters!
I love this video. This technique looks so efficient and elegant.
Will you be making any other hand sewing videos?
Thanks you for your sharing I really interested
Thank you so much for this video, Matsunaga-san!! It is my dream to make my own kimono. I love to sew and weave, and I would want to make my own fabric as well. Any resources you know of would be helpful.
Hi! Thank you for watching! I totally understand and more will follow. :)
As a few other have said, Seamstress and Tailor are two different things. While both work with textiles a Seamstress puts together the clothing from flat fabric and makes a full garment and a Tailor alters already made clothing to fit a person's measurements by adding or subtracting fabric as needed.
In my native language a tailor might alter already made clothing, but they can also make clothes to measurement from nothing, just by creating a pattern.
seamstress is the word for those people who only sew the clothing together from already existing patterns.
@@DelilahDraken in my language there's one word for tailor and seamstress, either you know how to sew clothing, from a pre-made pattern or by creating a pattern, or you don't.