Excellent video very informative. Amplifier seems similar to a Ak170 amp. All very similar Chinese construction mini amps with different housing boxes.
It's an oem product sold in plenty of different color cases. What bothers me is that sellers advertise it as 2x20 watt amplifier while datasheet for this chip says it's 2x8watt amplifier chip. Maybe this construction somehow squeezes more than that or just they are lying to people. I got pair of standing home theater speakers that are recommendet to use with at least 20W amp, but I hope it'll be enough to get at least listenable levels in that setup. I don't need too much volume but just decent sound in a small room for normal listening with quality better than USB speakers I got for my laptop. I got 12v 2.5A power suply from an old router. I hope it's all enough.
Yes, as I said in the video it's an old chip (discontinued), analogue and about 8W. The volume level is adequate for listening in a room. A 2.5A power supply should be enough, but be careful with re-purposed power supplies as some can be noisy when used with audio amps.
I have one that i think is very similar except i have a balance control too. I took some of the claimed specs with a pinch of salt but it will be okay for my purposes. The led is going & they probably cheaped out on heat sink compound too so i am changing that. What irritates me is that sellers are claiming it will be sent via Royal Mail but use another courior instead. I found my package behind the rubbish bin.
I just bought one in 2022 last week from amazon and it has a TDA7266 which is a completely different output than advertised. 7wx7w at best not the 18wx18w they advertised. Hell even run as a single channel it wouldnt put out 18w smh. Turns out they are doing this on all units now but not changing the specs and selling them as if it's still the same chip. Really pisses me off. Anyways I build guitar pedals, guitars and do tube amp mods constantly so I'm fully capable to mod this one to the correct values and parts. But I was hoping you could verify the main component values so I can make sure the ones that are off can be changed. I'm new to solid state amplifiers but im sure it's not that different so I should pick it up fairly quickly. Thanks for any help you could offer!
It's true that you never know what you're going to get until you open it up. Everything's boxed up after a house move, so it might be a while before I find this amp to look at it.
Definitely need to save those speakers from the dump. I'm running 4.99 a piece JVC's from Goodwill with my setup. Definitely don't want to toss the JVC's or any Pioneers for that matter.
I have this same amplifier... I had to open it up to get the board # because it's literally a no-name amp. I think I have a newer revision board because it's HY-2078C where yours is a -B. Don't know if it is any different than yours. I also assumed it's a class D as well. Good to know of any issues I might have with it. I'm using it for speakers on my computer. They're 4 in. (100mm) drivers without a tweeter, but the amp does its job fairly well for what I'm using it for. Good deal for under US$20 w/shipping lol.
yeah, it's a cheap but handy thing. mine is combined (as a pre-amp) with budget turntable and a set of old surround speakers (including active "subwoofer"). does its job great for the money paid.
The output stage for the amplifier is actually on-chip (TDA7057), so I'm not sure there's much scope to boost output, other than making sure you drive it up to the maximum 18V power supply.
@@alanconde8512 You have either grounding or interference problem. Run a separate ground for the added amp if you aren't already, ensure it's clean and tight both ends and most importantly run separately from any wires containing POS current and do the same with the speaker wires. POS current can leak into speaker and ground wires if run too closely causing interference. Other possible option is rectifier in car alternator is dying allowing AC current ripple
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Excellent video very informative. Amplifier seems similar to a Ak170 amp. All very similar Chinese construction mini amps with different housing boxes.
Хорошие руки настоящего мастера ! 10 Фунт стерлингов равно
1137,04 Российских рублей. Не много, но и не мало :).
It's an oem product sold in plenty of different color cases. What bothers me is that sellers advertise it as 2x20 watt amplifier while datasheet for this chip says it's 2x8watt amplifier chip. Maybe this construction somehow squeezes more than that or just they are lying to people. I got pair of standing home theater speakers that are recommendet to use with at least 20W amp, but I hope it'll be enough to get at least listenable levels in that setup. I don't need too much volume but just decent sound in a small room for normal listening with quality better than USB speakers I got for my laptop. I got 12v 2.5A power suply from an old router. I hope it's all enough.
Yes, as I said in the video it's an old chip (discontinued), analogue and about 8W. The volume level is adequate for listening in a room. A 2.5A power supply should be enough, but be careful with re-purposed power supplies as some can be noisy when used with audio amps.
I have one that i think is very similar except i have a balance control too. I took some of the claimed specs with a pinch of salt but it will be okay for my purposes. The led is going & they probably cheaped out on heat sink compound too so i am changing that. What irritates me is that sellers are claiming it will be sent via Royal Mail but use another courior instead. I found my package behind the rubbish bin.
I just bought one in 2022 last week from amazon and it has a TDA7266 which is a completely different output than advertised. 7wx7w at best not the 18wx18w they advertised. Hell even run as a single channel it wouldnt put out 18w smh. Turns out they are doing this on all units now but not changing the specs and selling them as if it's still the same chip. Really pisses me off. Anyways I build guitar pedals, guitars and do tube amp mods constantly so I'm fully capable to mod this one to the correct values and parts. But I was hoping you could verify the main component values so I can make sure the ones that are off can be changed. I'm new to solid state amplifiers but im sure it's not that different so I should pick it up fairly quickly. Thanks for any help you could offer!
It's true that you never know what you're going to get until you open it up. Everything's boxed up after a house move, so it might be a while before I find this amp to look at it.
Definitely need to save those speakers from the dump. I'm running 4.99 a piece JVC's from Goodwill with my setup. Definitely don't want to toss the JVC's or any Pioneers for that matter.
I have this same amplifier... I had to open it up to get the board # because it's literally a no-name amp. I think I have a newer revision board because it's HY-2078C where yours is a -B. Don't know if it is any different than yours. I also assumed it's a class D as well. Good to know of any issues I might have with it. I'm using it for speakers on my computer. They're 4 in. (100mm) drivers without a tweeter, but the amp does its job fairly well for what I'm using it for. Good deal for under US$20 w/shipping lol.
yeah, it's a cheap but handy thing. mine is combined (as a pre-amp) with budget turntable and a set of old surround speakers (including active "subwoofer"). does its job great for the money paid.
It's a great space-saver. I'm thinking of retiring the pleasant sounding but massive Marantz amp that the computer plays through.
my kinter ma-170 say 2200uf but has a 3300uf in it 16V
That ic was original or not?
I don't really know. Sometimes these vendors recover chips from old electronics and use them in new circuits. Or it could be a clone chip.
@@MartynDavies
It is a recovered chip. It has a date code of 1998.
@@westelaudio943 Hey, good spot!
How to make it more powerfull
The output stage for the amplifier is actually on-chip (TDA7057), so I'm not sure there's much scope to boost output, other than making sure you drive it up to the maximum 18V power supply.
Sir mine has a problem.. When im driving the sound been chappy but when i stop the motor the sound is ok again,, it happens when the engine is on?
@@alanconde8512 You have either grounding or interference problem. Run a separate ground for the added amp if you aren't already, ensure it's clean and tight both ends and most importantly run separately from any wires containing POS current and do the same with the speaker wires. POS current can leak into speaker and ground wires if run too closely causing interference. Other possible option is rectifier in car alternator is dying allowing AC current ripple