NOTE: that if you try to "rest" on the Goblin, it will 100% slip!!!! (Quite unnerving) You have to "free-fall" in order for the device to catch reliably. AS SOON as you free-fall, it catches!
If you put the goblin in ascent mode instead of fall arrest mode it will stop the device from falling down when resting, we use this in rope access as an ascender and can rest or even rappel on it during a rescue
My few wall aid solos were so long ago, I contrived just an early Sticht plate as my device, and tied loops at varying intervals with a backup waist tie as well; when a knot came up to the plate, I got good at one hand untying, though often it would hit in the middle of some free crux. I only took one short fall on this, and learned that the device imparted zero belay properties, because the rope falling with me became 'weightless.' It merely constrained the way the knot jammed, effectively a static catch. It was crude, but did not depend on falling right side up, something I seriously would consider as impossible to avoid in real conditions. The Silent Partner's principle is independent of gravity or position; a compact equivalent should be feasible, but not likely profitable after hefty insurance, and a limited market.
Great video! If you wanted a simpler setup, could you use the rope surfer to hold the goblin in proper position instead of the extra carabiners and string?
I would love a drawing of this solution because I don't see how I could use the rope surfer. I would love that someone contact me on Facebook or on my website to share this new idea if they see a way to do it! Thank you for pushing LRSing further! 🙂
Interesting! Thank you for showing your setup with the goblin! So there are quite a few steps to do, but it makes total sense why each step is done in the way shown. Did you actually fall on it? Since it is used as a primary device in this setup, would you trust it to hold a hard fall (say FF 1 or 1.5)? I guess CAMP won´t rate maximum forces for this device, since it is supposed to be a mobile fall arrester.. Thanks for your video.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Thats for sure! In fact i thought about using the goblin as a backup device for the main device grigri2. I am not sure, if the goblin would autofeed as a backup while attached to a full-strength attachement point. In the configuration i have in mind, the rope would have to slide through the goblin in the "down" direction to make the cash loop bigger an block in case of a hard pull in the "down" direction. It seems to slide up and down a fixed rope pretty well. A microtrax would be behind the goblin to reduce rope weight. The goblin seems so stand higher forces than e.g. the Petzl ASAP and has no teeth, so i would hope it doesn´t cut Mammut´s 9.5mm Alpine Core Protect Rope with Aramid. Very good research, thanks! Is there a way of donating / supporting?
To imagine I lost my opportunity to purchase a Soloist in 1999. I did consider it at that time. You have me thinking I should spend a lot of money now…
Good point! Will keep that in mind! I have taken lead falls on it and I am 80kg. But a factor 2 fall would be great! There are some tests here: www.usbr.gov/rope/docs/drop.pdf Also camp has tested the Goblin "with a cowstail" drive.google.com/open?id=1vKZkA3I9eloL5ppF58t5BD_dE40gwSCh (pdf is stored in my online course google drive all buyers get access to, could not find it on the web...)
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing As usual, thanks a lot !!!! 👌 I know that you should never use the daisy outside of aid climbing, but I lack the "physics" explained well ... And I think a review like this is in favor of everyone. A dear greeting
Actually I believe it is much safer to use it with a chest harness. Including for TRS. The reason is it can be held between your legs in a fall and not grab. If you have a backup obviously (as you should), it is much less of a problem: the backup will save you in the case the Goblin fails! Thanks for the comment!
@@kangdanlin I use it! Depends on the project and my mood. I would climb any "first pitch" with the Revo as the max FF is one in that case (not that I always use ground anchors around here, never the lead bolts of a climb). If I do multi-pitch, I would use a "plus-clipp" any time I risk a FF2. It is a quite easy to do technique where you lead the pitch to the belay anchor. But then you climb to the first solid protection and clip the lead rope there. That way, when you start the lead on this pitch, the first solid protection will be pre-clipped. Makes sense? The details are in my Lead Rope Solo online course you can buy here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing et plus bruyant aussi :p tu n'as pas exploité le concept jusqu'au bout, maintenant tu peux melanger les ceintures et les cuisses de differents modeles et brands :p
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing j'ai jamais coupé le pontet d'un baudard, m'ais j'ai deja rajouté un deuxieme cuissard a mon baudard pour etre confort en bricolant, mais c'est pas une idée mythique...
NOTE: that if you try to "rest" on the Goblin, it will 100% slip!!!! (Quite unnerving) You have to "free-fall" in order for the device to catch reliably. AS SOON as you free-fall, it catches!
If you put the goblin in ascent mode instead of fall arrest mode it will stop the device from falling down when resting, we use this in rope access as an ascender and can rest or even rappel on it during a rescue
You are right! But you need the ascent / descent mode for the LRS setup I explain in this video... Makes sense?
@kabiblehopper123 ok you mean if I want to rest, I can just push the button? Yes?
My few wall aid solos were so long ago, I contrived just an early Sticht plate as my device, and tied loops at varying intervals with a backup waist tie as well; when a knot came up to the plate, I got good at one hand untying, though often it would hit in the middle of some free crux. I only took one short fall on this, and learned that the device imparted zero belay properties, because the rope falling with me became 'weightless.' It merely constrained the way the knot jammed, effectively a static catch. It was crude, but did not depend on falling right side up, something I seriously would consider as impossible to avoid in real conditions. The Silent Partner's principle is independent of gravity or position; a compact equivalent should be feasible, but not likely profitable after hefty insurance, and a limited market.
Great video! If you wanted a simpler setup, could you use the rope surfer to hold the goblin in proper position instead of the extra carabiners and string?
I would love a drawing of this solution because I don't see how I could use the rope surfer. I would love that someone contact me on Facebook or on my website to share this new idea if they see a way to do it! Thank you for pushing LRSing further! 🙂
Interesting! Thank you for showing your setup with the goblin! So there are quite a few steps to do, but it makes total sense why each step is done in the way shown.
Did you actually fall on it? Since it is used as a primary device in this setup, would you trust it to hold a hard fall (say FF 1 or 1.5)?
I guess CAMP won´t rate maximum forces for this device, since it is supposed to be a mobile fall arrester..
Thanks for your video.
@@EdeSchmitt Never trust your life to a single tool. But I would use it as primary yes.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Thats for sure! In fact i thought about using the goblin as a backup device for the main device grigri2. I am not sure, if the goblin would autofeed as a backup while attached to a full-strength attachement point. In the configuration i have in mind, the rope would have to slide through the goblin in the "down" direction to make the cash loop bigger an block in case of a hard pull in the "down" direction. It seems to slide up and down a fixed rope pretty well.
A microtrax would be behind the goblin to reduce rope weight.
The goblin seems so stand higher forces than e.g. the Petzl ASAP and has no teeth, so i would hope it doesn´t cut Mammut´s 9.5mm Alpine Core Protect Rope with Aramid.
Very good research, thanks! Is there a way of donating / supporting?
Merci Yann!
Ça fait plaisir @Georges!!
To imagine I lost my opportunity to purchase a Soloist in 1999. I did consider it at that time. You have me thinking I should spend a lot of money now…
Would love to see those , test (80kg bag) fall on this device
Good point! Will keep that in mind! I have taken lead falls on it and I am 80kg. But a factor 2 fall would be great! There are some tests here: www.usbr.gov/rope/docs/drop.pdf Also camp has tested the Goblin "with a cowstail" drive.google.com/open?id=1vKZkA3I9eloL5ppF58t5BD_dE40gwSCh (pdf is stored in my online course google drive all buyers get access to, could not find it on the web...)
Granted that I would never do such a thing, what do you think of the daisy chain solo? I saw a video, and I am very perplexed ...
Could you point me out to this video please? I will try to write a blog article and post the link here!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing ok!
ruclips.net/video/MF0_Z32aiME/видео.html
Here is my answer!! Let me know what you think! blissclimbing.com/en/blog/2020/10/28/daisychainsolo/
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing
As usual, thanks a lot !!!! 👌 I know that you should never use the daisy outside of aid climbing, but I lack the "physics" explained well ... And I think a review like this is in favor of everyone. A dear greeting
for the Top rope solo, you don't need the chest carabiner...i was not sure why you use that, and then i saw the title :)
Actually I believe it is much safer to use it with a chest harness. Including for TRS. The reason is it can be held between your legs in a fall and not grab. If you have a backup obviously (as you should), it is much less of a problem: the backup will save you in the case the Goblin fails! Thanks for the comment!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing how about the REVO?..i saw the FF2 test with the broken rope....what feeling have you about it being used as solo device now?
@@kangdanlin I use it! Depends on the project and my mood. I would climb any "first pitch" with the Revo as the max FF is one in that case (not that I always use ground anchors around here, never the lead bolts of a climb). If I do multi-pitch, I would use a "plus-clipp" any time I risk a FF2. It is a quite easy to do technique where you lead the pitch to the belay anchor. But then you climb to the first solid protection and clip the lead rope there. That way, when you start the lead on this pitch, the first solid protection will be pre-clipped. Makes sense? The details are in my Lead Rope Solo online course you can buy here: blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/
👍💯
I'd be a little worried about the rubber bands snapping mid climb.
could you leave link to Sergei's content about the Goblin? unless he's an offline person
Here there are 13 links: facebook.com/groups/LeadRopeSolo/posts/266125997721260/ Enjoy!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing thank you
qu'est ce qui t'as pris de couper ton pontet? :p
C'est mieux pour le lead rope solo TOUT LE TEMPS!!! (car c'est plus petit et plus solide - 23kN ) :p
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing et plus bruyant aussi :p tu n'as pas exploité le concept jusqu'au bout, maintenant tu peux melanger les ceintures et les cuisses de differents modeles et brands :p
@@MrHassancehef OMG! Tu as déjà fais ça??? J'ai pas encore l'intérêt mais ça ouvre mon esprit à cette possibilité!!!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing j'ai jamais coupé le pontet d'un baudard, m'ais j'ai deja rajouté un deuxieme cuissard a mon baudard pour etre confort en bricolant, mais c'est pas une idée mythique...
@@MrHassancehef Oui très débrouillard :-)