OK, there have been quite a few comments criticizing me for showing a way to crimp MC4 connectors with needle nose pliers. So I'm going to sticky a response to give you some context. First, it ABSOLUTELY is possible to create a good, solid mechanical and electrical connection with needle nose pliers. It is much harder to do and less reliable, but it CAN be done. This is especially true if you crimp it with needle nose and then solder it. Either way, I demonstrated this method because there are thousands of people out there that are just installing a single solar panel for a light in their shed or a small pump for a garden water feature. There is no need to invest $30 in an MC4 crimper that you will only use one time for one single panel. Second, the method with needle nose pliers should ONLY be used for very small systems. Obviously, if you are installing a larger solar panel system or you are a professional installer you SHOULD be investing in the right tool for the job to reliably make a good connection. I would have thought that would go without saying, but I guess it needs to be spelled out. Third, all of my solar videos are for OFF GRID, LOW VOLTAGE systems. If you are looking for best practices and methods for installing large, grid-tied systems, please look elsewhere. As such, it is EXTREMELY rare for a fire to start on a low voltage, off grid solar panel system. I have installed numerous systems for customers, advised thousands more customers over the years, and talked to off gridders all over the world and I have never heard of this happening. Can it happen? Of course. But it is much, much harder for a fire to occur than in high voltage, high current systems like you would see in a grid tied system. In fact, arc fault interruptors are only required on systems exceeding 80V+ DC. If you disagree with any of this, fine. That is your opinion. Feel free to start your own RUclips channel and educate everyone better than what I am doing. But I'm tired of listening and responding to the hand-wringing and your comments will just be deleted from now on.
I got hung up and was trying to make sure which connector is positive and which one is negative... Well, the correct answer is both... It depends on which working end of the cable you are referring too... More important is making sure that you are putting in the proper metal innards into the proper plastic outards as they can fit inside the wrong connector, ...but won't connect... I am going to have to redo everything that I did this last weekend as soon as I get more MC4 connectors as once they go together they can't be reused (as far as I can) once the metal snaps inside the plastic they simply will not come back out... I am learning and if I can do it wrong, I will do it wrong the first time... 🤔😀
Thank you for posting your concern. I was having the same issue until I read your comment and watched again which metal piece he combined with the appropriate plastic casing. Bravo!
@@LDSreliance did it ever. I feel silly but I've been sitting on this gear (the proper gear and tools) for a solid month for fear of screwing it up. a 7:58 video was all it took.
You need an actual crimper that will indent the center and bite into the wire strands. Even a simple standard crimper will do. Pressing it together with a plier will just pull apart eventually!
it may; ---he could have soldered it after bending, but he had no clue about crimping at all,i can tell; maybe now he learned; to me,it was a good video,i just needed the highlights.
Absolutely agreed... with this half done crimping you will get eventually connect overheating..it is sooooo risky....the crimp tool is 15$ and it ships over night.
@@MichaelFrimlPhotography Officially: Is the gender of connectors defined by plastic parts or metal contact surfaces? In this video, I got the impression that the male is the one with the PLASTIC PART sticking inside the other. However, I have also seen the opposite concept, where it is considered that the male connector is the one inside which the closed-end metal pushes into the metal pipe of the other part.
From the looks of it. That last set of special tools you used to twist the two pieces together. Has two protruding pieces that will help you unplug the connectors from each other. It should go over those two clips at the same time, allow you to pull the plug apart.
Yes, that is correct. I didn't show that in the video because it was already getting too long (15 minutes before editing!) but those little prongs make it so much nicer to take them apart.
Thank you for sharing! For anyone doing this, do yourself a favor and buy the crimping tool. It will save you hours of troubleshooting in the future. In my case, I used the pliers and because it was barely making good contact, the wire got too hot and terminals melted.
Great video. The only one that explains that the male and female metal inserts go into the female and male plastic respectively. I had to replace the connectors on an REC Solar panel whose junction box wires were so large in diameter that the MC 4 grommet did not slide over them. These wires had an outer layer of insulation over a thicker inner layer. After trimming back the insulation to 1-inch like you recommended, I had to trim off another 1/2-inch of the outer layer to accommodate the grommets. Thanks again.
Absolutely Best Detailed Explanation, presentation & illustration! Thank You 🙏 so much. New Subscriber here. All the others go way too fast & no details in showing Etc Etc. Thank You again
@@LDSreliance Dang it, got the male/female inner piece reversed. My extension cord kit only came with one pair, gotta wait a couple of days to get more (multipack, + wire stripping tool!)
THANQ! I have seen many good youtube videos on how to install MC4 connectors but this by far is the best! I especially like the two methods of installation. I am trying to relearn RV solar after a few years. without any expert looking over my shoulder anymore. you could have mentioned the possible ''dangers" or problems of using the pliers method ?!
Yes, there are lots of little things like that in videos that you forget or overlook and wish you could go back and add in. Obviously the pliers method is inferior and there is a very slight chance you could have a problem. BUT it does work and I have done it before and it can be a solid mechanical connection. And I do believe that for tiny hobby or point of use remote systems where someone might be tempted to use pliers, the risk of a fire or even wire failure is extremely small due to the low current of such systems.
If you are making connector cables, pay attention to which cable you are going to connect to which lead of the panel. You will likely connect black band to red band and that means putting the black band MC4 on the red wire. Depends which end of the wire you're talking about but don't just match colors all the way through. Pay attention to plus minus off the panel and plus minus with your connectors. I think the special tool is also for taking them apart to spring the clips.
@@user-fj8sh6sq1z- depends wholly on the manufacturer of your system. My Renogy panel has red (+) wire male connector, but my extension cable- to adaptor from a different manufacturer is opposite. So obviously I'm here because I'm swapping connectors
It depends which side you are making. Most panels have male on the positive lead and female on the negative lead. So if you are making a cable to extend those wires, then female on positive and male on negative to plug in to your current connection but then male positive at the other end. This also helps when putting panels in a series string. Technically you could make all of them off the panel males and all connections female but then you must pay attention to colors and how you are wiring it up. The opposite connectors reduce the possibility of crossing the connections later and allow for easy installation of series strings.
It certainly can't hurt. Just don't replace the solid mechanical connection that crimping the connectors makes with a soldered joint. Make a strong mechanical connection and then solder. I am sure you know that but just stating the obvious.
Oh my Dear God I DID IT!!!! I connected my solar panels directly to my Jackery power station and can FINALLY FREAKIN CHARGE my Jackery withOUT having to run the Beast or killswitch the batteries.. Now I can have continuous electricity going to my fridge. I'm so dang happy! ❗❗❗❗❗🎉🎉🎉😂😂😂🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾 THAAAANK YOUUUUU! LDSReliance! Now to clean up the mess. 😁😂😎
THANK You LDSReliance for your brilliant and very helpful videos. Very reliable info. I just ordered connectors with full confidence after learning some fabulous tips from a couple of your vids. Stay blessed and awesome. 👍🏾😎
I’m a bit confused. By a solar calculator I am recommended to get 6 awg wire to run from the solar panels to the inverter because of the long distance. However it’s say mc4 connectors only work with 10 to 14 awg. Why would they recommend large wires that cannot be connected. Am I missing something???
You can but it is designed to not need it. I demonstrated with both needle nose (sub-optimal) and proper MC4 crimpers. If you are using just doing a one-off project you can get by with needle nose and for good measure maybe some solder. But if you are doing more than a few of these I would invest in the proper crimpers.
thanks for this I got 2 male and female connector ,connected to my solar panel so I was agoniseing how I was going connect a wire to the mc4 connectors, but its simple just get some wire with positive and negitive mc4 and connect on them to the other mc4 connectors and connect the wires to my mppt charge controler, so thanks again
There is no functional difference in the two. The only reason most direct current applications use red and black is so you can easily tell which one is positive (red) and which is negative (black).
The BougeRV tool/kit is pretty decent. I took a random chance on my first crimper on Amazon and it broke pretty quickly. But I have done several installs with the BougeRV unit now and it is holding up well. You can get the tool by itself but for only a few dollars more you can get it plus some of their MC4 connectors and their MC4 disconnect tool: amzn.to/3Qhisll
You can, sure. But it is not necessary. The specifications for the MC4 connectors are such that it is not necessary for a high quality electrical connection.
@@LDSreliance You can't be serious? The MC4 is a 30 amp rated terminal connector. Any electrical termination should be done the best way possible. Poor connection can result in a fire. And that needle nose pliers part is straight garbage.
Will I able to get these two parts separated after the click.(7. 29)Reason being to keep the panel indoor when not in use. If yes does it require any tool or can be removed with some effort.Thanks for nice presentation. Please reply.
Yes, there is a special plastic tool that is cheap that you can purchase that will help you easily disconnect the two connectors from each other. Here is an example: amzn.to/3buC1Fr
Do you know if the connectors will come off again, or is it the case that once they are on they are on? I need to fit mine to a controller tomorrow, but when I have more time I'll be wanting the connectors to connect them to a second module. I'm not sure I'll be able to get some more connectors tomorrow to make up an extension lead, so if these would just come apart, I can hang onto them for later.
Between the solar panel and the charge controller or grid tied inverter? It certainly can't hurt but I don't see it commonly done. I certainly don't do it.
@@LDSreliance 250 watt panel, 10am awg, to a goal zero 1500 yeti. the yeti has a built in change controller. I was thinking 10 amp line in fuse. But wasn’t sure if that was enough amps.
I'm not an expert on fuse sizing but a 12V 250W panel would provide up to almost 20A of current during normal operation so a 10A fuse would most likely blow regularly.
thank you verry informative vid , i do have a question , i need to find a vid for extending the 20ft out put lines from panel array to charge controller , upwards to 100 feet , any help would be greatly appreciated
Sounds like you just need to build some extension cables. On one end will be MC4 connectors like you see in this video and on the other side will just be bare cable that will be inserted into the wire terminals on your charge controller.
any idea how many connectors are there that looks lik a mc 4 connector but are not so i asume the chines have mad a copy from a connector but yep the patent so we make it a litle different and cal it mc4, like i always say it looks like it but it is not a sun clix.
Thanks for the video man, it's pretty good, I gave you a like but, next time maybe you could specify what's the female and male connector for the metal part, because I tried to follow you and I made that mistake, I thought it was the same as the plastic parts, and it turns out to be the contrary.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching! There are lots more solar videos on my channel for noobs like I used to be and you now are. Be sure to give the video a thumbs up to help me out if you haven't already :)
That would depend on the gauge of the wire you are using. Sometimes you have to guess because the manufacturer is fudging the size of the cable or it isn't printed on the wire or you just don't know.
Hello i have a question. My solar panels are cheap ones from Harbor freight they was a gift 4 sets of them for a total of 400 watts. Now they do not come with mc4 connectors. But from my charge controller to the panels there is no connectors just bare wire. I was thinking of using mc4 Connectors. I have crimping tools and what not. I just hope i understand this coming from the charge controller the Positive Plus + side using the Negative Minus - MC4 connector, And the Negative Minus wire coming from the charge controller goes to the Positive Plus + MC4 Connector? Then the Solar panels the the Positive Plus + wire goes to the Positive Plus MC4 connector and the Negative minus - wire from the solar panels goes to the negative minus - MC4 connector is this correct?
It is not possible to hook it up wrong. The MC4 connectors themselves do not have polarity. I think they just put + and - on them because those are the ones that are usually installed on the leads from the solar panels respectively. But in your case if you did it backwards it would not matter.
I have my doubt on the 1-inch stripped back wire as both ended fight each other once you close the connector. I also think the thickness of the insulation determines how tight your can screw the end of the connector together
@@LDSreliance ok, thank you.That part of the connector will be inside the house.Havinf it totally click in,will it help the performance of the panel intake wattage to the generator?
@@LDSreliance some are like that. some people do take them off,I have read them in comments. I don;t think it's an issue in the house. There may be a bit of play,but I wanted to know if there is better wattage input. they didn't say.
So, I think I've got it. Male pins go in the female connector and the female pins go in the male connector? Wierd. Now, if you're going red to red. you have to reverse the connectors? So you would have the female connector going on the red wire and the male connector going to the black wire? Is the output side of the male connector connected to the output side of the device + and the negative side goes to the female connector? I need a diagram.
It can be confusing depending on how you wire things up. The colors and labels (+ or -) on the connectors are meant for how you would wire a single solar panel to something. However, if you start to run multiple panels and wire them in series or series parallel, then all bets are off. My best advice is to use a multimeter and check polarity regularly so you don't connect things wrong (which I have done before).
8 AWG is the largest you can do with MC4. The crimpers have 3 different sizes they can handle and are built to match the metal internal connectors and not any specific gauge of wire. If it will fit inside the connect, it will work. But 8 AWG should work.
@@LDSreliance Thank you. I used your link. If money was not an issue (I have to do a bunch of 8AWG MC4 work), is there a "best" (hydraulic?) crimper for the work I need to do?
I have never seen a hydraulic one. The one in the link that I provided is good but probably not "installer grade" to be using it every day for your job. How much is a bunch of work?
@@LDSreliance I just like to have quality tools that are easy to use. I am doing (redoing) a large solar project for my home to make it off grid with air conditioning (hybrid mini-split) and then doing my daughter and son in laws house that has no solar at all. Due to the type of setup I have (too much for this com), I am running low voltage high current and over large distances and that requires the 8AWG that I am using successfully. That is not going to change so I need excellent crimpers for my 8AWG wire to custom set up my panels, and inverters, ..... with MC4. Right now I am running Amazon fixed length 8AWG USA Made solar wire and need to cut them back to minimum lengths (just to get started). I have 3 solar trackers that are dual axis and will need to customize the panel installation on them and later my daughter's. Thanks for all your responses!
I have seen expensive ones that are probably built better. But I don't have any personal experience with them and they look exactly like the cheap ones. I have not seen any hydraulic ones at all. I like extremely high quality tools, as well, but I think in this case this tool will be fine for you. I've used 3-4 and only broken one and it was just a cheap part that did not interfere with the tool working. It was some sort of guide.
LDSreliance right on, thanks. I just ordered a bunch along with some y harnesses and the wrenches, I'm building a solar popup camper trailer for my electric bike as well as fixing all the old solder and shrink connections in my rooftop panels at home.
LDSreliance thanks, I'm trying to build a fleet of solar vehicles, already got a chopper cruiser ebike I charge from my rooftop solar, and am motorizing my tow bike and flatbed trailer next, building the popup and when that's done I plan to build a solar electric car based on the lotus 7 roadster with the warp9 motors and group c GTP type replica body covered in solar cells.
No. The largest I have ever heard of is 8 gauge and most of the reviews on those said it was BS and that it was really 10 gauge connectors with a seam cut in them to make them open slightly wider. 10 gauge is the largest I would ever run in MC4 connectors. If you have a need for thicker cable that means you are running too many panels in parallel on the same wires OR your wire run is too long. To get around this, use a combiner box. They are cheap and make wiring super simple. You can run big beefy cables out of the output of a combiner box for longer runs, too.
@@LDSreliance okay, I actually just bought some premade 8 awg and crimped on to 6 awg. I did find some precrimped 6 awg ends on ebay for $33.00 but with 8 awg I am already good on minimal resistance. Thanks
@ldsreliance quick question, as you get more and more solar panels do you simply keep daisy-chaining them, or do you need to consider a different gauge? I imagine the answer would be different if you were doing it in series versus parallel. Thanks again for the incredibly helpful video.
Daisy chaining them will wire them in series, which increases the voltage each time. That will help keep the size of the wire down because higher voltage suffers less voltage drop. But there is a point where you will exceed the voltage capacity of your charge controller/inverter. So another option is to use a combiner box. I actually just uploaded a video yesterday about that very subject: ruclips.net/video/MYUm3IwyAkM/видео.html
LDSreliance I’m sorry. I meant specifically parallel. I want to increase amperage while maintaining voltage. But can you increase amperage without eventually “gauging up” on the wires?
Why did you strip it back an inch? I was told 1/2" is plenty as your just trying to crimp the wire to the connector and not have the wire protrude into the pin area which could cause binding.
@@LDSreliance I hear ya, but i think the actual connection point is only the two pieces of metal that wrap over the wire. The rest is floating wire inside the shaft. This extra floating wire sometimes can bind the other connector if too long.
Sorry to hear that. MC4 is the universal standard for solar so using those is pretty much future proof. The only panels that don't use MC4 are the portable ones and usually those are either Anderson powerpole or some sort of proprietary junk that only works with that brand's products. But you can always hack off the end and crimp on some MC4's.
@@LDSreliance Ta 🙂 It's probably the last panel on my system but the hub that all the leads go into are the old connectors. I've got a few of those so I can make up some MC4's now to link them, thanks to you 👍🏼
Not just that one concept, specifically, but I do explain it in a few different videos. The easiest analogy I have seen used is that volts are like gravity acting on balls on a slope. The balls are pulled down the slope of a hill by gravity. The steeper the slope (higher voltage) the more force/pressure is exerted on the ball. Amps is a measurement of volume or quantity. Think of it like how many balls are being affected by gravity. If you have 1 ball or 10 balls on the hill it makes no difference to gravity (volts) because that is the same. But 10 balls is a bigger volume or quantity rolling down a hill than 1 ball. And Watts is just the two multiplied together. It is the actual measurement of energy. 1 ball rolling down a gentle sloped hill doesn't have much energy. The ball will be barely moving. You can add 9 more balls on that same hill and they will all be going slowly down the hill and you have 10 times the amount of energy as the 1 ball. Or you could have a much steeper hill that is 10x more steep than the first gentle hill and only have 1 ball but that equals the same energy as the 10 balls on the gentle hill. Volts is the pressure or force, Amps is the volume or quantity, and Watts is the multiplied total of the two which equals the amount of energy. Does that make sense?
I believe you should never crimp the contact with only pliers - even when i crimped low voltage Pin headers with pliers this was never a really reliable connection - not to forget what might happen with 1000VDC and 10A+
Absolutely. Having to replace every string on a commercial job and test because the sub contractors used pliers was such a pain in the ass. Just get some real crimps from Amazon made for mcs
my only concern was how much wire you fed into the female terminal, the wire on that side will crash into the male terminal if it's too long, which is probably why your plug was so stiff going in, it shouldn't be. correct me if I'm wrong.
OK, there have been quite a few comments criticizing me for showing a way to crimp MC4 connectors with needle nose pliers. So I'm going to sticky a response to give you some context.
First, it ABSOLUTELY is possible to create a good, solid mechanical and electrical connection with needle nose pliers. It is much harder to do and less reliable, but it CAN be done. This is especially true if you crimp it with needle nose and then solder it. Either way, I demonstrated this method because there are thousands of people out there that are just installing a single solar panel for a light in their shed or a small pump for a garden water feature. There is no need to invest $30 in an MC4 crimper that you will only use one time for one single panel.
Second, the method with needle nose pliers should ONLY be used for very small systems. Obviously, if you are installing a larger solar panel system or you are a professional installer you SHOULD be investing in the right tool for the job to reliably make a good connection. I would have thought that would go without saying, but I guess it needs to be spelled out.
Third, all of my solar videos are for OFF GRID, LOW VOLTAGE systems. If you are looking for best practices and methods for installing large, grid-tied systems, please look elsewhere. As such, it is EXTREMELY rare for a fire to start on a low voltage, off grid solar panel system. I have installed numerous systems for customers, advised thousands more customers over the years, and talked to off gridders all over the world and I have never heard of this happening. Can it happen? Of course. But it is much, much harder for a fire to occur than in high voltage, high current systems like you would see in a grid tied system. In fact, arc fault interruptors are only required on systems exceeding 80V+ DC.
If you disagree with any of this, fine. That is your opinion. Feel free to start your own RUclips channel and educate everyone better than what I am doing. But I'm tired of listening and responding to the hand-wringing and your comments will just be deleted from now on.
Hallelujah! You've changed the course of my life!
I got hung up and was trying to make sure which connector is positive and which one is negative... Well, the correct answer is both... It depends on which working end of the cable you are referring too...
More important is making sure that you are putting in the proper metal innards into the proper plastic outards as they can fit inside the wrong connector, ...but won't connect... I am going to have to redo everything that I did this last weekend as soon as I get more MC4 connectors as once they go together they can't be reused (as far as I can) once the metal snaps inside the plastic they simply will not come back out... I am learning and if I can do it wrong, I will do it wrong the first time... 🤔😀
Thank you for posting your concern. I was having the same issue until I read your comment and watched again which metal piece he combined with the appropriate plastic casing. Bravo!
Thanks!!! I'm doing my first time this weekend. I bought the crimping tool but I think I'll still use a little solder after the crimp.
Instablaster...
....it doesn't hurt 👍
You walked me right through this. Perfect and everything worked, first time out of the gate. Well done sir!!
Awesome! Glad the video helped you.
@@LDSreliance did it ever. I feel silly but I've been sitting on this gear (the proper gear and tools) for a solid month for fear of screwing it up. a 7:58 video was all it took.
DIY stuff can be scary but every time you push through that unknown and finish a job you will gain confidence. Good job!
You need an actual crimper that will indent the center and bite into the wire strands. Even a simple standard crimper will do. Pressing it together with a plier will just pull apart eventually!
it may; ---he could have soldered it after bending, but he had no clue about crimping at all,i can tell; maybe now he learned; to me,it was a good video,i just needed the highlights.
Absolutely agreed... with this half done crimping you will get eventually connect overheating..it is sooooo risky....the crimp tool is 15$ and it ships over night.
thats how pv fires start
@@MichaelFrimlPhotography Officially: Is the gender of connectors defined by plastic parts or metal contact surfaces? In this video, I got the impression that the male is the one with the PLASTIC PART sticking inside the other. However, I have also seen the opposite concept, where it is considered that the male connector is the one inside which the closed-end metal pushes into the metal pipe of the other part.
@@MR-ub6sq Metal contact surfaces
From the looks of it. That last set of special tools you used to twist the two pieces together. Has two protruding pieces that will help you unplug the connectors from each other. It should go over those two clips at the same time, allow you to pull the plug apart.
Robert Steich .....spot on! good catch. 👍
Yes, that is correct. I didn't show that in the video because it was already getting too long (15 minutes before editing!) but those little prongs make it so much nicer to take them apart.
Is mc4 connectors can be used in motorcycles? Considering In all weather conditions..installed near the motorcycle engine...
This was extremely helpful to me!! Thank you very much!!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching! Be sure to subscribe if you haven't already.
Thank you for taking the time to show us this. Much appreciated
Of course. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing! For anyone doing this, do yourself a favor and buy the crimping tool. It will save you hours of troubleshooting in the future. In my case, I used the pliers and because it was barely making good contact, the wire got too hot and terminals melted.
There is no replacement for the right tool for the job!
I just received by Amazon this solar panel connector crimping kit...I'm praying it will work for this fine presentation you've provided.
Is it the one I linked to? Either way, should work fine.
@@LDSreliance O no, I'm sorry, that came out wrong, mine is a Chinese made brand called SWANAMB.
Ahh ok. Let us know how it works out for you!
Great video. The only one that explains that the male and female metal inserts go into the female and male plastic respectively. I had to replace the connectors on an REC Solar panel whose junction box wires were so large in diameter that the MC 4 grommet did not slide over them. These wires had an outer layer of insulation over a thicker inner layer. After trimming back the insulation to 1-inch like you recommended, I had to trim off another 1/2-inch of the outer layer to accommodate the grommets. Thanks again.
You are welcome! Glad it helped you.
Thanks guy. I didn't realize how easy it was.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching.
How can you extract the pin once the connector is locked in. Will a regular pin extractor work?
I appreciate the way you explain things made it easier for a knucklehead like me. Thank you. 👍👍👏👏
You are very welcome! I was a knucklehead, too, before I learned all this myself. Glad to help anyone I can.
Absolutely Best Detailed Explanation, presentation & illustration! Thank You 🙏 so much. New Subscriber here. All the others go way too fast & no details in showing Etc Etc. Thank You again
You are welcome. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Thank you! Going to do this tomorrow! Installed panels on our road trek today!
Exciting! Good luck on your install.
@@LDSreliance Dang it, got the male/female inner piece reversed. My extension cord kit only came with one pair, gotta wait a couple of days to get more (multipack, + wire stripping tool!)
Yep, I have made that mistake more than once. Hopefully this video is helping a few people avoid some of those mistakes I made the hard way.
THANQ! I have seen many good youtube videos on how to install MC4 connectors but this by far is the best! I especially like the two methods of installation. I am trying to relearn RV solar after a few years. without any expert looking over my shoulder anymore. you could have mentioned the possible ''dangers" or problems of using the pliers method ?!
Yes, there are lots of little things like that in videos that you forget or overlook and wish you could go back and add in. Obviously the pliers method is inferior and there is a very slight chance you could have a problem. BUT it does work and I have done it before and it can be a solid mechanical connection. And I do believe that for tiny hobby or point of use remote systems where someone might be tempted to use pliers, the risk of a fire or even wire failure is extremely small due to the low current of such systems.
This video was so very helpful for me to assemble these for my first time thank you greatly
!!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching.
If only school was this informative💫
No kidding. Don't get me started!
you cant learn everything in school. Don't be dumb
If you are making connector cables, pay attention to which cable you are going to connect to which lead of the panel. You will likely connect black band to red band and that means putting the black band MC4 on the red wire. Depends which end of the wire you're talking about but don't just match colors all the way through. Pay attention to plus minus off the panel and plus minus with your connectors. I think the special tool is also for taking them apart to spring the clips.
@@user-fj8sh6sq1z I just looked at a spare 315W Qcell panel. The + junction cable has a male MC4.
@@user-fj8sh6sq1z- depends wholly on the manufacturer of your system. My Renogy panel has red (+) wire male connector, but my extension cable- to adaptor from a different manufacturer is opposite. So obviously I'm here because I'm swapping connectors
It depends which side you are making. Most panels have male on the positive lead and female on the negative lead. So if you are making a cable to extend those wires, then female on positive and male on negative to plug in to your current connection but then male positive at the other end. This also helps when putting panels in a series string.
Technically you could make all of them off the panel males and all connections female but then you must pay attention to colors and how you are wiring it up. The opposite connectors reduce the possibility of crossing the connections later and allow for easy installation of series strings.
Why the female metal in the male connector? Why not female in female?
Thanks for this! I've watched another well know bloggers video and it was a bit to quick. Thanks for taking your time.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. The metal connectors that go on the ends of the wires are called ferrules 👍
Yes, I have since learned that :) Thanks for watching!
The little tool to tighten the connector also is used to disconnect the connector
Good to know!
Thanks, good demo, I think I'll solder them on just to make absolutely certain. 😎👍❤️
It certainly can't hurt. Just don't replace the solid mechanical connection that crimping the connectors makes with a soldered joint. Make a strong mechanical connection and then solder. I am sure you know that but just stating the obvious.
Better than some videos I've watched, but could still be improved quite a lot. You also should have shown us the crimped metal in close-up.
By all means, show us how it is done.
Oh my Dear God I DID IT!!!! I connected my solar panels directly to my Jackery power station and can FINALLY FREAKIN CHARGE my Jackery withOUT having to run the Beast or killswitch the batteries.. Now I can have continuous electricity going to my fridge. I'm so dang happy! ❗❗❗❗❗🎉🎉🎉😂😂😂🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
THAAAANK YOUUUUU! LDSReliance!
Now to clean up the mess. 😁😂😎
Haha good job! Glad this video helped you.
THANK You LDSReliance for your brilliant and very helpful videos. Very reliable info. I just ordered connectors with full confidence after learning some fabulous tips from a couple of your vids.
Stay blessed and awesome. 👍🏾😎
You are very welcome! Love comments like these. Thanks for watching and good luck on your project.
I’m a bit confused. By a solar calculator I am recommended to get 6 awg wire to run from the solar panels to the inverter because of the long distance. However it’s say mc4 connectors only work with 10 to 14 awg. Why would they recommend large wires that cannot be connected. Am I missing something???
Can 40/60 with a bit of flux solder be use there? 2:09
You can but it is designed to not need it. I demonstrated with both needle nose (sub-optimal) and proper MC4 crimpers. If you are using just doing a one-off project you can get by with needle nose and for good measure maybe some solder. But if you are doing more than a few of these I would invest in the proper crimpers.
@@LDSreliance make sense hey thanks for the information, good day 😊
You are welcome. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Thank you for tbis toturial, I'm able to joined together the mc4 connector with my dc 6mm wire. This is near and can see it clear all the parts.
You are welcome. Glad it helped you!
Greatest step by step instruction! Thank you! 👍👍
You are welcome! Thanks for watching! Be sure to give the video a thumbs up to help me out :)
@@LDSreliance Yes Sir, will do!
Thank you for posting this!!.... VERY helpful!!!!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
thankyou ! i made some 10 yeas ago so nedded to see it again to be sure, and it was easy done.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
thanks for this I got 2 male and female connector ,connected to my solar panel so I was agoniseing how I was going connect a wire to the mc4 connectors, but its simple just get some wire with positive and negitive mc4 and connect on them to the other mc4 connectors and connect the wires to my mppt charge controler, so thanks again
No problem. Glad you figured it out!
Great video! I was completely oblivious as to how to use the tool, and crimp properly. The video was very well done. Thank You!
Thanks! I appreciate it.
I bought the 20 ft cables from BougeRV. What is the red cable for? What is the black cable for? Why 2 colors?
There is no functional difference in the two. The only reason most direct current applications use red and black is so you can easily tell which one is positive (red) and which is negative (black).
Heidi,... will all due respect for trying, hope you get good 'coaching and advise' in setting up your solar panel system. [why 2 colors? .... lol ].
Thanks, I now have confidence in doing my own cables.
Subscribed.
Where to buy the crimping tool?
I want a quality toll, not junk.
The BougeRV tool/kit is pretty decent. I took a random chance on my first crimper on Amazon and it broke pretty quickly. But I have done several installs with the BougeRV unit now and it is holding up well. You can get the tool by itself but for only a few dollars more you can get it plus some of their MC4 connectors and their MC4 disconnect tool: amzn.to/3Qhisll
@@LDSreliance thank you, look forward to watching your show!
Bro which is better for low resistance?.... twisting the copper wire OR with MC4 connector?
Is it a good practice to solder the wire in addition to crimping? thank you.
You can, sure. But it is not necessary. The specifications for the MC4 connectors are such that it is not necessary for a high quality electrical connection.
@@LDSreliance
You can't be serious?
The MC4 is a 30 amp rated terminal connector. Any electrical termination should be done the best way possible. Poor connection can result in a fire.
And that needle nose pliers part is straight garbage.
Can you do a video on connecting the mc4 bridge connectors when joining panels in parralell
The y connectors? They are pretty straight forward. Not sure what I would explain.
Thank you for this video. It really helped!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Will I able to get these two parts separated after the click.(7.
29)Reason being to keep the panel indoor when not in use. If yes does it require any tool or can be removed with some effort.Thanks for nice presentation. Please reply.
Yes, there is a special plastic tool that is cheap that you can purchase that will help you easily disconnect the two connectors from each other. Here is an example: amzn.to/3buC1Fr
Do you know if the connectors will come off again, or is it the case that once they are on they are on?
I need to fit mine to a controller tomorrow, but when I have more time I'll be wanting the connectors to connect them to a second module. I'm not sure I'll be able to get some more connectors tomorrow to make up an extension lead, so if these would just come apart, I can hang onto them for later.
You won't be able to re-use the connector if you pull it apart. If you can I would just wait for some new connectors. Sorry
Do the connectors come with those little metal sleeves or do you have to buy them separately? Thanks
They come with the metal sleeves.
Can mc4 connectors also be used to extend 12v trolling motor cable to a leisure battery?
Yes. They are excellent, water tight connectors for whatever low voltage DC purpose.
@@LDSreliance Thank you.
Do you recommend putting a line-in fuse?
Between the solar panel and the charge controller or grid tied inverter? It certainly can't hurt but I don't see it commonly done. I certainly don't do it.
@@LDSreliance 250 watt panel, 10am awg, to a goal zero 1500 yeti. the yeti has a built in change controller. I was thinking 10 amp line in fuse. But wasn’t sure if that was enough amps.
I'm not an expert on fuse sizing but a 12V 250W panel would provide up to almost 20A of current during normal operation so a 10A fuse would most likely blow regularly.
Followed this video. Made it easy! Very thankful
You are welcome! Thanks for watching.
Very clear and helpful. Thank you.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
thank you verry informative vid , i do have a question , i need to find a vid for extending the 20ft out put lines from panel array to charge controller , upwards to 100 feet , any help would be greatly appreciated
Sounds like you just need to build some extension cables. On one end will be MC4 connectors like you see in this video and on the other side will just be bare cable that will be inserted into the wire terminals on your charge controller.
Yay! Not so nervous now, thank you!
You are welcome! Just make a nice, solid connection that doesn't wiggle and preferably solder it as well and it will never be a problem. Good luck!
What is the AWG of the cable you are using?????
MC4 typically maxes out around 10AWG or so.
any idea how many connectors are there that looks lik a mc 4 connector but are not
so i asume the chines have mad a copy from a connector but yep the patent
so we make it a litle different and cal it mc4, like i always say it looks like it but it is not a sun clix.
cheap connectors yes if you do not calculate the tools you need for 6 connectors.
Thanks for the video man, it's pretty good, I gave you a like but, next time maybe you could specify what's the female and male connector for the metal part, because I tried to follow you and I made that mistake, I thought it was the same as the plastic parts, and it turns out to be the contrary.
Hmmm, I don't know what I could have done better. I mentioned that you had to put the male metal part in with the female plastic part and vice versa.
Ummm i didn't realize. My bad. Thanks anyways
No worries. It was a long video with lots of talking so I don't blame anyone for skipping parts or not listening to me ramble lol.
Yeah but still the shorter I found, the rest talk to much sh** lol, yours straight to the point.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
any links to your wedding band? I'm about to buy one and was curious your thoughts and info about yours.
Haha, I don't even remember where she got it. I just told her I wanted Tungsten and a general style. Sorry!
@@LDSreliance No problem. I appreciate the response. Thank you!
Great vid for a solar noob :) thanx!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching! There are lots more solar videos on my channel for noobs like I used to be and you now are. Be sure to give the video a thumbs up to help me out if you haven't already :)
Great video gonna make some later thanks 👍
You are welcome. Good luck!
how do you know which size of hole in the crimping tool you need to use?
That would depend on the gauge of the wire you are using. Sometimes you have to guess because the manufacturer is fudging the size of the cable or it isn't printed on the wire or you just don't know.
Can i solder the wire to the tip for added hold?
Sure!
Hello i have a question. My solar panels are cheap ones from Harbor freight they was a gift 4 sets of them for a total of 400 watts. Now they do not come with mc4 connectors. But from my charge controller to the panels there is no connectors just bare wire. I was thinking of using mc4 Connectors. I have crimping tools and what not. I just hope i understand this coming from the charge controller the Positive Plus + side using the Negative Minus - MC4 connector, And the Negative Minus wire coming from the charge controller goes to the Positive Plus + MC4 Connector? Then the Solar panels the the Positive Plus + wire goes to the Positive Plus MC4 connector and the Negative minus - wire from the solar panels goes to the negative minus - MC4 connector is this correct?
It is not possible to hook it up wrong. The MC4 connectors themselves do not have polarity. I think they just put + and - on them because those are the ones that are usually installed on the leads from the solar panels respectively. But in your case if you did it backwards it would not matter.
did you use 2.5mm2 crimper on 4mm2 wire? I tried to use 4mm2 crimper on 4mm2 wire but it's still loose.
Interesting. What kind of crimper are you using? I have used two MC4 crimpers now and both have been sized properly for tight fits.
@@LDSreliance nevermind, I think I used it wrong. If I folded wings shut with pliers first, then I had some success.
It should fold the wings for you. Make sure you have the wings facing toward the B shaped part of the crimper.
I have my doubt on the 1-inch stripped back wire as both ended fight each other once you close the connector. I also think the thickness of the insulation determines how tight your can screw the end of the connector together
7-8mm is the correct length of stripped wire
is it ik to remove the little red rubber ring on a mc4 connecter to make it snap in better?
The red ring is there to help prevent moisture and dust from getting in. So I would try hard not to remove that if you can.
@@LDSreliance ok, thank you.That part of the connector will be inside the house.Havinf it totally click in,will it help the performance of the panel intake wattage to the generator?
It should click if it is assembled right. The jacket of your wire may be too thick or something that is preventing it all from working properly.
@@LDSreliance some are like that. some people do take them off,I have read them in comments. I don;t think it's an issue in the house. There may be a bit of play,but I wanted to know if there is better wattage input. they didn't say.
@@LDSreliance is there a difference with just a little bit of not so tight of a connection
Easy to follow, clearly explained. Thank you very much.
So, I think I've got it. Male pins go in the female connector and the female pins go in the male connector? Wierd. Now, if you're going red to red. you have to reverse the connectors? So you would have the female connector going on the red wire and the male connector going to the black wire? Is the output side of the male connector connected to the output side of the device + and the negative side goes to the female connector? I need a diagram.
It can be confusing depending on how you wire things up. The colors and labels (+ or -) on the connectors are meant for how you would wire a single solar panel to something. However, if you start to run multiple panels and wire them in series or series parallel, then all bets are off. My best advice is to use a multimeter and check polarity regularly so you don't connect things wrong (which I have done before).
How large AWG will the crimpers handle? All my solar (the panels are far away) are 8AWG as are my MC4 connectors
8 AWG is the largest you can do with MC4. The crimpers have 3 different sizes they can handle and are built to match the metal internal connectors and not any specific gauge of wire. If it will fit inside the connect, it will work. But 8 AWG should work.
@@LDSreliance Thank you. I used your link. If money was not an issue (I have to do a bunch of 8AWG MC4 work), is there a "best" (hydraulic?) crimper for the work I need to do?
I have never seen a hydraulic one. The one in the link that I provided is good but probably not "installer grade" to be using it every day for your job. How much is a bunch of work?
@@LDSreliance I just like to have quality tools that are easy to use. I am doing (redoing) a large solar project for my home to make it off grid with air conditioning (hybrid mini-split) and then doing my daughter and son in laws house that has no solar at all. Due to the type of setup I have (too much for this com), I am running low voltage high current and over large distances and that requires the 8AWG that I am using successfully. That is not going to change so I need excellent crimpers for my 8AWG wire to custom set up my panels, and inverters, ..... with MC4. Right now I am running Amazon fixed length 8AWG USA Made solar wire and need to cut them back to minimum lengths (just to get started). I have 3 solar trackers that are dual axis and will need to customize the panel installation on them and later my daughter's. Thanks for all your responses!
I have seen expensive ones that are probably built better. But I don't have any personal experience with them and they look exactly like the cheap ones. I have not seen any hydraulic ones at all. I like extremely high quality tools, as well, but I think in this case this tool will be fine for you. I've used 3-4 and only broken one and it was just a cheap part that did not interfere with the tool working. It was some sort of guide.
Should I use dielectric grease with these?
No, not necessary. They are sealed against moisture.
LDSreliance right on, thanks. I just ordered a bunch along with some y harnesses and the wrenches, I'm building a solar popup camper trailer for my electric bike as well as fixing all the old solder and shrink connections in my rooftop panels at home.
Very nice! The camper sounds fun. Let me know if you need any more help.
LDSreliance thanks, I'm trying to build a fleet of solar vehicles, already got a chopper cruiser ebike I charge from my rooftop solar, and am motorizing my tow bike and flatbed trailer next, building the popup and when that's done I plan to build a solar electric car based on the lotus 7 roadster with the warp9 motors and group c GTP type replica body covered in solar cells.
Very cool! You should do some videos on all that.
Thanks for making this! Very clearly explained and to the point. 👌
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Do you know if you can crimp 6awg wire on an Mc4 connector and if so are those connectors compatible to connect to an 8awg mc4?
No. The largest I have ever heard of is 8 gauge and most of the reviews on those said it was BS and that it was really 10 gauge connectors with a seam cut in them to make them open slightly wider. 10 gauge is the largest I would ever run in MC4 connectors. If you have a need for thicker cable that means you are running too many panels in parallel on the same wires OR your wire run is too long. To get around this, use a combiner box. They are cheap and make wiring super simple. You can run big beefy cables out of the output of a combiner box for longer runs, too.
@@LDSreliance okay, I actually just bought some premade 8 awg and crimped on to 6 awg. I did find some precrimped 6 awg ends on ebay for $33.00 but with 8 awg I am already good on minimal resistance. Thanks
Sounds good. Good luck!
Thank you for this how to video.
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching.
Thank you! Helped me greatly today setting up a new solar panel that didnt have an mc4 connector already :D So simple once you know it!
Nice! Glad I could help.
I wonder was that 12 gauge stranded copper wire?
Best vid for this! I need the crimper for 8AWG with mc4's. Can you recommend a crimper for 8AWG? (a.k.a. 10mm squared.)
@ldsreliance quick question, as you get more and more solar panels do you simply keep daisy-chaining them, or do you need to consider a different gauge? I imagine the answer would be different if you were doing it in series versus parallel. Thanks again for the incredibly helpful video.
Daisy chaining them will wire them in series, which increases the voltage each time. That will help keep the size of the wire down because higher voltage suffers less voltage drop. But there is a point where you will exceed the voltage capacity of your charge controller/inverter. So another option is to use a combiner box. I actually just uploaded a video yesterday about that very subject: ruclips.net/video/MYUm3IwyAkM/видео.html
LDSreliance I’m sorry. I meant specifically parallel. I want to increase amperage while maintaining voltage. But can you increase amperage without eventually “gauging up” on the wires?
Ok with parallel you are keeping the voltage the same but adding current so yes, you do need to get thicker gauge wire each time you do that.
LDSreliance gotcha, thank you!
You are welcome. Good luck!
Why did you strip it back an inch? I was told 1/2" is plenty as your just trying to crimp the wire to the connector and not have the wire protrude into the pin area which could cause binding.
I don't think it is possible to have too much contact between the wire and the connector.
@@LDSreliance I hear ya, but i think the actual connection point is only the two pieces of metal that wrap over the wire. The rest is floating wire inside the shaft. This extra floating wire sometimes can bind the other connector if too long.
OK, interesting. I haven't had that happen or heard that but it is possible, I guess.
Excellent demo. Thanks.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks i need to repair some of these at work
You are welcome. Good luck with that and thanks for watching!
Thank you that was very useful 👍🏼👍🏼😎😎
You are welcome, Ziggy! Thanks for watching.
@@LDSreliance I've just ordered some, they've changed the connectors since I last bought solar panels 🙄 Thanks again 🙂
Sorry to hear that. MC4 is the universal standard for solar so using those is pretty much future proof. The only panels that don't use MC4 are the portable ones and usually those are either Anderson powerpole or some sort of proprietary junk that only works with that brand's products. But you can always hack off the end and crimp on some MC4's.
@@LDSreliance Ta 🙂 It's probably the last panel on my system but the hub that all the leads go into are the old connectors. I've got a few of those so I can make up some MC4's now to link them, thanks to you 👍🏼
Thank you. Procedure understood.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Very usesfull! Thanks man.
You are welcome, Tom. Thanks for watching!
So just to be clear, the crimper you used was not a typical crimper. It is a special one made for MC4 connectors?
Yes. I demonstrated using normal needle nose pliers and then a specially-built MC4 connector crimper.
@@LDSreliance Thank you! Very clear.
This is the 4th video looking for the proper assembly of mc4 connectors and the first one that explained it well!
Good! Thanks for watching.
Thanks was super easy!
You are welcome! Glad you found it helpful.
Yep,that was very helpful,thanx..👍😁
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thank you it was clear crystal
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you bro, I am good to go or better yet (solar flow). I also subscribed to your channel too.
Thanks for the sub! I appreciate that.
Do you have a video on amps, watts and volts? My brain just can't seem to grasp the differences.
Not just that one concept, specifically, but I do explain it in a few different videos. The easiest analogy I have seen used is that volts are like gravity acting on balls on a slope. The balls are pulled down the slope of a hill by gravity. The steeper the slope (higher voltage) the more force/pressure is exerted on the ball. Amps is a measurement of volume or quantity. Think of it like how many balls are being affected by gravity. If you have 1 ball or 10 balls on the hill it makes no difference to gravity (volts) because that is the same. But 10 balls is a bigger volume or quantity rolling down a hill than 1 ball.
And Watts is just the two multiplied together. It is the actual measurement of energy. 1 ball rolling down a gentle sloped hill doesn't have much energy. The ball will be barely moving. You can add 9 more balls on that same hill and they will all be going slowly down the hill and you have 10 times the amount of energy as the 1 ball. Or you could have a much steeper hill that is 10x more steep than the first gentle hill and only have 1 ball but that equals the same energy as the 10 balls on the gentle hill.
Volts is the pressure or force, Amps is the volume or quantity, and Watts is the multiplied total of the two which equals the amount of energy. Does that make sense?
@@LDSreliance Yes it does. Thank you for taking the time to respond!
You are welcome. I may just need to make a video on this subject because you aren't the only one that is confused. Thanks for watching!
I believe you should never crimp the contact with only pliers - even when i crimped low voltage Pin headers with pliers this was never a really reliable connection - not to forget what might happen with 1000VDC and 10A+
Absolutely. Having to replace every string on a commercial job and test because the sub contractors used pliers was such a pain in the ass. Just get some real crimps from Amazon made for mcs
Correct!
Excellent explanation Thanks
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
What gauge wire did you use?
I think 8 gauge is the biggest you can use. I don't remember what I used in the video.
👍 thank you.
Just try did something wrong as I connected to solar my box did not get any solar input. So back outside to charge until I figure this out.
i would defenetly solder it, especially when you make lots of parrallel connections with them.
It is ideal, for sure, but I have never had a connection have any problems.
Soldering is less reliable than a cold weld. Refer to MIL STD 217
Thank you very much sir.❤
my only concern was how much wire you fed into the female terminal, the wire on that side will crash into the male terminal if it's too long, which is probably why your plug was so stiff going in, it shouldn't be. correct me if I'm wrong.
Very helpful. Thank you.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great vid, thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
Very nice ❤
Thanks for watching!
Good tutorial
Thanks!
Thanks!! 💯🤙🏼😎
You are welcome, Steve! Thanks for watching.