Flashproject "Lichtblick" 8c+
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2022
- Giving the route "Lichtblick" 8c+ in Achleiten (Tirol) a flash attempt had been on Jakob's mind for quite some time. Even if the bouldery sequences make it a tough one to succeed in, Jakob gives it his all with the help of his buddy Alfons Dornauer.
Find more about Jakob on his blog www.jakob-schubert.com/
Jakob Schubert’s Ticklist www.thecrag.com/climber/jakob...
Video realized by @Alpsolut Moving Pictures with the support of @MAMMUT 
Спорт
We want that return of the sleepwalker downgrade footage! 😂
If a V16 with a V13 sit start isn't V17, I don't know what the hell is 😐
@@TrackpadProductions tell that to the terminator
@@TrackpadProductions it’s sort of up to the climbers to decide if it is truly a step above the V16 grade. That will be hard for Jakob to tell because if I recall correctly he has not done a consensus V16/8C+ boulder problem yet, only sent 8C’s or 8C+’s that were downgraded.
Didnt age well lmaooo
Didn't understand much, but it's always great to watch some good footage of one of the world's best climbers
It's subtitled
@@vindicatelightheartedapropos but I can't read. Also watching this while working so have to pay attention to something else.
@@assaqwwq sounds like you can solve that yourself then.
High quality video and great attempt. Nice!
great video! Good vibes!!
Great content!
Das markante Fingerloch, wer kennt es nicht!
Extrem stark wieder 💪
So close!! Damn it!
Awesome!!
The man 💪🏻
sending it on the second go shows how close you were!
BEAST
Love the mono at @7:15
Servus miteinander! Jakob sagt zu Beginn : "in the competition we habe a video with the perfect beta of the route". Das wäre mir ja völlig neu. Was meint er damit?
Das gilt nur für die Qualifikationsrunde: IFSC Rules 7.14 A) entweder gibt's eine Videoaufzeichnung, oder eine Live-Demonstration wie die beiden Routen geklettert werden können.
Halb-Final und Final sind mit 6 Minuten "Observation Period" vom Boden aus.
Guats Videomaterial mittlerweile, weiter so 💪
Fudging machina!!!! Super.
Saugeil
You can turn on subtitles!
How can it be that you can’t hear the drone despite flying so close to the hanging cameraman?
first :) Wahnsinnsvideos! Dein Kanal ist seit deinen Bouldervideos mit Nikolai mein liebster Kletterkanal. Weiter so Jakob!
Are they speaking Austrian dialect? I thought it sounded a bit like Swiss German although I don't quite understand everything
Yes, that's Austrian. More specifically from Tyrol. I guess it sounds similar to swiss german because of the harsh pronunciation of the "ch" and the "k" sounds, that are shared between Tyrol and Switzerland. As well as the many "sch" sounds.
You said you didn't quite understand everything, where are you from? :)
@@Oachlkaas I'm from Singapore but have lived in Switzerland for a few years, so I mostly only understand high german but can make out a few sentences of dialect. I'm quite interested in language sciences as well hence I asked haha.
I always thought Austrian German would sound more like Bavarian which I heard quite a bit especially from mountaineering youtube videos, so I was quite surprised that the language sounded rather different over here. It makes sense now since I just read that the western provinces of Austria has alemenanic influences!
@@limzhanfeng115 Very impressive then that you were able to understand bits. Germans are usually entirely clueless when it comes to understanding us and they, supposedly, speak the same language.
Austrian is by no means uniform. In Eastern Austria, beginning with Salzburg and Upper Austria, people speak similar to what Bavarians once spoke (since Bavarian nowadays has been degraded to being standard german with an accent - like Viennese also has btw). But i guess that can be explained with the fact that nothing separated these areas from Bavaria, unlike tyrol which is cut off because of the mountains.
Yes there are similarities and influences from alemannic, but I'm not entirely sure the k's and ch's are. Because the alemannic speaking area Tyrol has always had the most contact with (Vorarlberg) doesn't have that harsh pronunciation.
Richtig gutes Video, gerade auch weil's mal nicht geklappt hat.
Mir war nicht klar, dass ihr Österreicher für alle kletterbegriffe Übersetzungen habt😅
Es nitta?
Have you tried using drones to suss out a route's holds?
drones streaming to a full body tactile VR suit...
In my mind a flash (or on sight) is a tribute to how good the climber is at reading a route from the ground - and finding the best beta during the climb. Not sure how I feel about watching someone send the route and then getting step by step instructions to the top... Just my take on it, it all felt pretty silly
Well watching someone climb the route and get information dorm a buddy is literally the difference between flash and onsight?
Well this is also what Ondra did to flash 9a+...
But I do agree that, in my opinion, onsight tells you much more about the climber than worked flashes
Confused as well. For a Flash he can get step-by-step instructions, or watch videos of sends as much as he likes, but live-instructions?? Don't like it. Is it common sense it's "allowed" for a proper "flash"? Serious question, what do the others think?
Nevertheless, great content, beautiful line, awesome send, Jakob!
I know it is a really hard project, and that is good to have info about how to climb it, but I personally hate when my belayer is yelling at me how to climb. Id rather get as much info as possible and try to follow the chalk marks and my instinct + info gathered.
I'm sure they discussed how they wanted the route to be belayed, Jakob likely asked Alfons for the beta talk.
Agree and personally I think isn't really flashing a route if someone gives beta as climber is on the route
@@andreabruni3759 It's still a flash, it's not an onsight. Flash has previous or current beta. Onsight is no beta at all (some consider that even knowing the grade is not an onsight).
but isnt sending someone who knows the route to tell you all about it beating the intention of onsighting or flashing it ?
Onsight is without knowledge and flash is just your first go but you can study the route as you want, there's a big difference between indoors/outdoors in this sense
@@OlivierFRscooter so i could rebuild/copy a route 1 to 1 train on it untill i can do it perfectly, go to the original route and i still can call it a flash?
@@provuksmc6619 yep, theoretically. That's the difference between onsite and flash though.
@@frostproductions5451 wierd
Onsight: You don’t have any previous knowledge or information of the route. Flash: The only requirement is that you personally haven’t climbed this specific route before. You can get all the information and beta you want. You can even train specifically for it.
If you've watched enough climbing videos, you don't even need them to speak English to know what they're saying.
right? hahaha
Stop downgrading stuff and climb a 9c already...
Alfons, please be quiet if you are recording it, it takes one of the scene listening all this cmons, (and i dont think u are really doing any good to the climber).
wtf man, when you are pushing hard, it is so motivating to notice that your belayer is on fire as well and tries to support you
@@julianstockl2139 its a personal question, i supose. In my case i dont need it but occassionally is good. I think adam ondra said that when he was climbing he didnt listen anything, he only focus in the thing.
Maybe i did not have to put this last affirmation, not only putting (). The important thing for me is as spectator i dont want in any case to listen people talking. Is ¿disrupting? The experience.
Thanks for the reply.
@@bodhisatba You don't seem to understand the intention of the video. It is not just for the purpose of your entertainment, but an attempt at showing the process of flashing hard routes. Which in Jakob's way includes beta spray from his belayer. Adam Ondra might have a different tactic, but in this case, it's irrelevant.
@@madraven5915 when Jacob Schubert beggins with professional videos and adam ondra goes with mammut there is a clear marketing intention. They want to sell to me and to you and for that we have to like these videos. I dont like it because what i said. Wether the purpose is showing a flash or not.
The thing is: i dont like videos with people saying venga que tu puedes, cmon, allez allez, etc. AS A VIEWER. And they do these videos to me and to you, because they gain money with youtube and mammut. So i think my critique is welcome. Its constructive and im explaining it.
@@bodhisatba Then turn off the volume! I welcome the raw experience. And the fact of the matter is these videos document a proces, and without the betaspray, he wouldn't have been so close to flashing. And I want to understand that. They could easily have made a movie with clean edits, background music, and pretended it was a flash. But we have plenty of that on youtube, what is in demand, from the climbing community, is the raw, sometimes uncut, honest depictions. We're tired of it being too perfect. We want to understand the humans who make up the super athletes, and not just stand back in awe.
You might not agree with this. But I know I'm speaking for many. Which is also why a channel like Mellow blew up.
If you want the polished over-edited sponsor stuff. Go elsewhere on youtube, it's not hard to find. But let Jakob do what he wants to do, and let us who like authentic depictions have our corner of the internet.