I received this item plus extra track this past weekend and honestly I'm disappointed. I treated it with kid gloves & out of 4 total pieces of track, only 2 pieces lined up nicely & one of the other pieces is so tight on one end that you have feel like you have to force the saw thru. All 4 pieces are square to each other when touching end to end but the height of the track varies across the top face at 2 of the 3 junctions. I also tried leaving a very slight gap but that didn't work either. The circular saw base works well with the glide adjusters but the track connections, as noted previously, are the real let down for me. I watched every Milescraft RUclips video I could find before attempting to put the track together but it just didn't work as well as I thought it should. I'll keep it because it was my decision to purchase it but I wouldn't buy it again. These are my thoughts only & if yours works well, I'm glad for you. I wish Milescraft would sell an 8' long piece because I'd be all in on it.
Sacrificial wood isn’t necessary to cut the the guide strip. It is stiff enough. What you may gain by using backing wood is to keep the trimmed-off guide strip pieces from flying about. They’ll go a distance-wear a face shield. Or just just the backing wood. If your saw has dust capture you’re ahead of the game. 😅 Also, don’t go beyond ‘snug’ for the set screws on the track joiners. ‘Good and tight’ can move the tracks vertically and create a tiny lip at the joint where the saw will have to be slightly lifted to clear. In one direction, anyway. Easily remedied, but best not to over-tighten with any of these aluminum pieces. I like this tool. Repeat cuts on plywood have never been quicker and cleaner.
Just bought one and am really impressed. My DeWalt 6-1/2” little wonder fits perfectly. Tip: after aligning your saw in the sled, add a strip of wood, on the sled, behind the saw with two sided tape. That way you can pop the saw in without adjusting its alignment with the face of the guide. Great tool. Great bargain.
Don't worry about changing the blade. Even if the new blade has a thicker kerf the track edge is set to the blade's inner edge and this doesn't really change from blade to blade. The kerf thickness goes outward. If that makes sense.
Not necessarily. If you change out the blade to a thinner tooth blade but the blade body is the same then the guide will no longer be accurate. I had the same problem with a DIY saw guide after switching to a new blade.
When standing behind the saw, if you correctly use the set up guide, the left side of any blade should be at the same place every time. You should be able to put in a dado set and never have the problem of cutting the guide. The left most part of the blade should be up against the guide while the thickness variation will entirely stretch to the right.
I honestly like how in depth you went with this checking for things like play and what not, I've seen a lot of reviews that left me more confused about track saws than I was to begin with. Many thanks for this and thank you as always for sharing your time and knowledge.
Good job, thanks for doing this video. I'm just a weekend warrior and didn't want to invest in a new saw as I already have 3 (two cordless and one corded) and will only be using this to cut down large sheet goods on occasion. This system makes perfect sense for me and now that I know it will actually work I'm going to get one.
You helped me understand track saw in general. And considering the different dialects and vocabularies we have, I found your review extremely easy to understand and helpful regarding what tools make sense for me. Thank you for your time and expertise!
I’m a diy’er, homeowner. I purchased the Milescraft track saw guide and I’m glad I did. The building quality is very good. The cut quality is quite good. I just couldn’t justify the price of the higher cost track saws.
Great review, I really appreciate your thought process and thoroughness. I have used a similar product (Kreg’s AccuCut) on a circular saw, and recently I purchased a Makita track saw. My experience is that the accuracy of the circular saw additions is *slightly* poorer than the real track saw. This is NOT an issue if you are using the track to break down sheet goods but doing final cuts on a table or miter saw. For those that will *only* use a track saw and need the best possible, and repeatable, accuracy definitely get a real track saw. The plunge feature of a real track saw allows you to get the saw fully supported before the cut begins, where the circular saw additions require having the saw off the workpiece to start. Again not a big issue but it does slightly impact accuracy and you definitely want to use the track clamps, which are less necessary on a real track saw. The plunge and easy depth of cut adjustment on a real track saw allow for doing scoring cuts which is a BIG benefit when working with expensive hardwood faced plywood. The cutting strip on the track (either circular addition or track saw) prevent splintering in the “keep” side of the cut, but scoring prevents splintering on the WASTE side, which can save sone wood and eliminates the need to do two cuts to get clean edges on both sides. For me, personally, the biggest benefit of the track saw was dust collection. It is VASTLY superior to any circular saw system. Thanks again for all the great content!
Thanks for a great review on this product. Your product presentation was very well done and your demos and explanations were clear and concise making the video a pleasure to watch. I set my tracksaw guide up today and wanted to watch a few reviews and setup guides to make sure I didn't overlook something and yours is one of the best reviews on this product. 👍
Thank you very much for this review. This came up as an advertisement a few weeks ago at my local tool supplier and I have been eyeing it up as a potential solution. Great review that answered all my questions!
And here I was, looking for an inexpensive track system to attach my Ryobi Circular Saw to and thinking I'd have to spend a huge amount of money just for a straightedge. Thank you! You've saved me a lot on money! Well done.
A very good and unbiased review. What you haven't mentioned is the problem with sawdust extraction. All dedicated plunge saws seem to handle this concern, as well as the ability to plunge cut. I also believe the side adjuster rollers should be rectangular or square to eliminate the rollers jamming up with sawdust. Overall, a good presentation. Cheers!!
By far the most in depth and comprehensive tutorial, from beginning to end, on the set up of the Milescraft Tracksaw Guide. I've watch almost a dozen videos in between trying to set mine up because this or that was not right. Finally came upon this post and it explained all my dilemma's, plus some. THANK YOU SIr!!
Back in the 80's Black & Decker had a similar product with track and sled mounted C-saw albeit not as long and was designed for crosscutting at various angles. I still have one, it was called the miter-mate and was sold as an accessory for the Work-mate bench.
Looks to be a decent option for folks who do not want to buy a dedicated track saw... well made and packaged (~$100 USD in the states). I agree that for another $10-20 they should have included a carry bag to hold the entire setup and spare parts... perhaps even room for an extra pair of rails you almost certainly will need to get to extend your cuts to full size sheet goods. Most people buy these systems to break down 4x8' sheets and will need a rail that goes out at least 9', meaning four of them will be required. The attachment method for the saw to the base looks a bit flimsy & weak, although understandable, so you need to be very careful when using it and whenever you set the saw down... don't knock it out of alignment. My big issue is that rail length. I realize they split it into two to make shipping easy, but that adds flex points and extra assembly since you will almost always need to put at least the two together (and possibly four). Most standard tracks today come in 55" lengths.
GREAT review. The main comparison would be Kreg or similar manufacturer not Festool as they are in a different class. That being said, I certainly will give this a look. I like that you took the saw off and reinstalled it so we can see that it really is an easy process. For the home sawdust maker, like myself, this is a good option for the occasional track use. Thanks again.
I have the Wen 7 1/4 corded track saw with a 110" track AND a clamp-on style product similar to this one. I consider the clamp style type a waste of money because the real track saw has spring plunge and is easier to work with all around. The blade guard on a regular saw also is a constant hassle. If you get the Wen, be sure you get the 110" track, not the 100" inch one. currently, both are being sold for about the same price.
Absolutely the best description on how to set this thing up and get running … I would’ve returned the track if it weren’t for this detailed explanation!
When adjusting the guide adjusters for the side to side play, if you have an old hack saw blade, it looks like you can slide the teeth of the blade against the guide to prevent it from turning, if that was the concern. Those teeth are directional, so lay the blade in there with the teeth pointing at you. If it's just lining all four the same, set the two end adjusters at the same time using a wooden wedge. Once both are set run a straight edge against the secured screw heads and set the inside two.
Nice review. I use a homemade version without a need for a saw cradle but I do like the fit and finish so I may spring for this at some point. I would actually put on a cordless dedicated saw on it and just leave it on since I do use a track saw often.
Great review. I have seen other reviews of this product and apparently they didn't read the manual. You make the set up look very easy. Milescraft makes pretty good products at a decent price and this is no exception. This would be perfect for anyone who already has a decent circular saw and doesn't want to invest in an expensive track saw. Well done sir.
Hello there, by far that is the best video that I have seen going over the miles track saw. Thank you that really taught me a lot. I have been thinking long time if to buy one, now I am sure I will. Again thank you for the great vieo.
Overall a nice option compared to a dedicated track saw. As far as removing and reinstalling the saw to the base a simple use of the T track between the mounting hold downs would provide a nice area to make your own spacer to simplify reinstalling even more. No need for the blade spacer every time that way. This has probably just made it to my christmas list. Thank you for the review.
Looks quite similar to the True Trac Saw Guide which I have been using for a few years now with good results. I encourage viewers of this video to check it out. Unlike the Milescraft system reviewed here, its rails come in 24", 48" and 57" (60cm, 120cm, 145cm) lengths. I have been able to make straight cuts on 12' (3.7m) and longer boards; in theory, with all the rails I've purchased. I could go up to 18+ feet (5.5 meters)! They also make and sell router bases that ride on the very same track. FWIW: I'm not in any way affiliated with True Trac.
I think track saws are valuable for those of us who need to breakdown 4' X 8' sheets of plywood and other materials but who have a small foot print shop. This would be a great solution to breakdown those sheets of oversized materials in the driveway, weather permitting.
Depending on your budget this could be valid. I took the leap years ago to buy the xgt makita track saw, I’ll be honest…. It’s the one tool you should buy first. Unless your wood is more than 2 inches thick a track saw is so much better than a table saw . I know 1000 is a lot of money but it’s worth it
Perfect for breaking down sheet goods with all the precision you need unless making fine cabinets. Very impressed. Thanks for the review. I already have 85mm vertical cut Makita corded and 60mm vertical cut Makita corded. The 60mm has an attachment to run on track and I've been very happy with it but it is slow to set depth. For making eg 100 beehives, this would be great with some cutting boards with stop blocks for repeat work.
I got one of these for a couple weeks ago for a saw I already have. For long straight cuts, it worked pretty well. Obviously, it can't really do bevel cuts.
I purchased a Bora track saw kit and the saw sled is all plastic. It seems intended for "full shoe" saws only. My cheap Skil sidewinder has a very narrow shoe and the MilesCraft works much better with it. You have to order from 2 different places, but you can get the MilesCraft for $135 delivered if you search the 'net enough. I use a 60 tooth "finish blade" on my 7 1/4" saw and I have no problems with chipping melanin coated MDF, particle board or "AB" plywood. A 48 or 50 tooth should do almost as well (carbide tipped, of course). HINT: More teeth mean more friction and heat and more "pitch" build-up on your blades. Oven cleaner or blade cleaner prevents burning the cut edge.
Very good review. Excellent job overall. Couple of comments. When you're using a aftermarket jig type setup like this you are missing a riving knife. Which is a major plus of set-ups like Festool, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid Etc. Plus with a dedicated track saw you get exceptional dust collection.
When the stock is moving through the blade, such as with a table saw, I'm a big proponent of the riving knife. However, I'm not sure it's as much of an issue when the stock is fixed and stable, as with this type of rig. It's really made for breaking down sheet goods.
I love it! I only thought of one thing I’d have done differently and that would be the small swivel casters I’d have installed roller ball bearings. I think it’s a great design though!
I currenlty have two curcular saws. One is a Dewalt, that I bought as a refurbished swa, works great, but is extremely heavy. It is deinfitely built for more than what I do. I also have a Milwaukee M12 circ saw. I like th eprtability of this and would not want to dedicate it as a track saw. So I am in the situation where if I bought the Milescraft kit, I would also be buying circ saw.
Wouldn't mind having a milescraft saw track guide,it would be an addition to my Bora NGX and WTX clamp. Like the c clamp it is away from the saw, clamping the track guide down. Wow
Yeah, the only downsides functionally is The cut depth compared to my Festool and the dust collection. If 1.75” depth of cut is enough and you won’t ever need to cut inside a house, this looks like an amazing product.
Hi. Thanks for a very well elaborated presentation. I have a few questions. 1- can you do a bevel cut ? I guess not. 2- is it compatible with other main brands like Dewalt? 3- Did you try to put a straight edge against the cut to see if there is day light ? I would highly appreciate, if you advice. Thanks again.
A really great review thank you Jean! Honest, objective and personally for me, means I don't have to justify paying a crazy amount for a track saw setup! Cheers buddy, good luck! 👍 England are dead in the water... come on the Boks and Fiji! 🏉🇫🇯🇿🇦
I'm surprised, this is the second video demonstrating this guide while using a 24T rip blade in the saw. Fine-tooth plywood cutting blades are available and don't cost much.
I really like the setup. The clamps are a great idea using the track to lock them in. I agree with you & everyone there should be a bag with it, they aren't that expensive. The one thought or question is is that this track only breaks down a 4 ft wide dimension. I would particularly want to use a track saw to break down lengths of plywood. Particularly, here in the States, a 4 X 8 ft sheet of plywood. Does this system come in a longer setup or do you have to get another one or two tracks & add on? Great review tho. Saw on!
An important thing for some users is what other saw/router track is the profile compatible with. There is the Festool profile and the near identical Makita profile (effectively interchangeable) versus the Triton/US tool profile, which are not interchangeable - it looks like Milescraft are trying to add a third standard, which kinda sucks for users who already have some investment in track guided tools or may want to add something like a router sled. (Then you have Bora who appear to have 2 different profiles within one brand)
Nice review. One huge limitation I learned from another MIlescraft tracksaw review (which I didnt' hear mentioned here), is that you can't bevel with this tracksaw guide like you can with a dedicated tracksaw.. I don't know if there are other tracksaw guides that allow you to bevel. You may want to add that, as review is otherwise very thorough.
I'm was really confused. At 12:08 you pick up the clamps and leave behind 4 black plastic pieces. No mention of what they are for. The whole reason I came to this video. Maybe I missed it but I searched back and forth in this video and others to no avail. Digging deep in the manual, I found a side that's only used if needed for those 4 vertical clamps that secure the saw to the sliding plate. Unfortunately, my kit is missing the 2 vertical clamps that mount the back side of the saw (parts 8c). That added to my confusion. Anyway, it would be good to mention those in your video, seeing them left on the table adds confusion. Other than that, this is the best video I came across.
Great review. I just bought one to handle breaking down sheet goods. What are the four left over round plastic parts that are flat on one side used for? Makes me wonder if I missed an assembly step.
Good review, thanks. These must be ok... try finding one to order in Canada🙄. It is an obvious compromise from a bigger table saw or a dedicated track saw but could be a useful addition. The sled looks a lot better than the Kregg version.
Excellent presentation. I like any well designed and made product but frankly, is all that gear and fussy setting up really so much better than simply clamping a straight edge to the work piece and using that to guide the saw? I suppose if you have dozens of cuts it might make sense.
Nice saw guide. $899.00 US is much higher than I am not willing to pay for a saw guide that I would not use often enough to justify the cost. For what I need I have found a 6 ft level that I can clamp onto the sheet goods works pretty good. I can use it with either my corded or battery powered saw. The blades are on different edges.
The milescraft saw guide with everything in this video is $99.00USD on their website, and the extra two packs of tracks are $80USD each. So, assuming you had a circular saw already, this would cost $180USD for everything shown in this video plus two extra tracks (giving you 100” of track total). It’s a Pretty affordable way to get into the track saw business, even if you had to add $200USD for a battery operated Dewalt 7.25” circular saw. That’s about a sixth of what my Festool track saw costed five years ago and the only two major perks to mine over this setup is mine has 3” of cut depth compared to this ones 1.75” and the near perfect dust collection of the Festool.
@@surlycanadian Thank you. I realized later that the price was not in US dollars. $99 seems like a good price point. I have a 15 amp Porter Cable corded saw for heavy cutting and a Ryobi 18 volt for cutting most thinner sheet goods.
I like this set up alot. Only downside is that saw setting guage. If i get one of these I will for sure lose the guage. I bag would definitely be a big plus
A really good and interesting video, thanks for uploading!! Question - when you have a saw secured onto the plate, how far is the bottom of the circular saw base off the piece to be cut? Looking at this, I estimate it's around 1/2 inch?
Great review. Seems much more solid that the Kreg Accu-cut. I started with that one, but eventually took the "plunge" on a Makita setup. What really blew the doors open for me after the purchase were the accessories such as square guide and parallel guides. For me, that really turned the track saw into a valuable and versatile bit of kit and an incredible addition to the shop. While it's pretty cool to be able to upgrade the household circular saw and for making great, accurate straight cuts with it, I do wonder if these types of products will have some of that expandability down the road?
DIY tracks are pretty easy and cheap to make, and you can make jigs to add to them to do pretty much whatever you want. To me the only real advantage to a track saw is dust collection, and you have to buy a really good one to get decent dust collection. I'm just a hobbyist and personally ok with just sweeping up some dust after making my cuts, but I can see the advantage in a more professional setting,
I received my track saw earlier, it is a good tool, worse the price, but here are my remarks: - the track saw guide needs adaptation when used with circular saw Maktec MT-583 (common in Thailand, cheap from Makita), there is interference with the butterfly nuts used to adjust the saw angle, I had to replace them with normal nuts. - the saw could not be pushed back all the way against the end stop, I had to add a 20mm spacer (a bit of 20mm plywood). - one of the rail connector had bad casting, there was a bit of aluminium sticking out, I had to file it back. - the translation of the user manual in French is terrible, I am using the English version.
I feel like a missed opportunity to not include an anti-tipping feature since there is a t-track on the far side of the extrusion. What is that t-track for? Have you tried tilted cuts?
At first glance I thought Woodpecker came out with a guide. LOL What needs to take place is this guide up against Kregs. Kinda-sorta apples to apples since both make a circular saw into a track saw, but this does get your circular saw closer. My issue is I don’t want to have to take my circular saw off and on. IMO it’s worth every penny to invest in a track saw even if it’s the cheaper Ryobi.
I have the Kreg version of this design and I believe this is a much better product and better quality. I'm tempted to scrap the Kreg and buy this one. the Milescraft is only $10 USD more expensive, but you seem to get a much better product.
The big think that you're giving up is dust collection. This isn't just a matter of cleaning the shop less often. That's easy. Cleaning the lungs is a bit harder. Dust from a saw isn't the worst thing (the particles are pretty large) but it's not nothing. There are cheaper alternatives other than Festool but I wouldn't go with this one.
As said by others looks good. One thing you didn't show/mention was cutting at an angle... 45° or other. Does the blade still line up with the edge on the tracks?
I'll stick to my 70mmx30mm aluminium straight edge and two f clamps. A lot cheaper & less mucking around when comes to packing up at the end of the day.
Great narrating kind Sir. Also, very well in Teaching and Instructing . Thank you for what you do for us. None finer! The item is WOW great. It should sell well.
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I received this item plus extra track this past weekend and honestly I'm disappointed. I treated it with kid gloves & out of 4 total pieces of track, only 2 pieces lined up nicely & one of the other pieces is so tight on one end that you have feel like you have to force the saw thru. All 4 pieces are square to each other when touching end to end but the height of the track varies across the top face at 2 of the 3 junctions. I also tried leaving a very slight gap but that didn't work either. The circular saw base works well with the glide adjusters but the track connections, as noted previously, are the real let down for me. I watched every Milescraft RUclips video I could find before attempting to put the track together but it just didn't work as well as I thought it should. I'll keep it because it was my decision to purchase it but I wouldn't buy it again. These are my thoughts only & if yours works well, I'm glad for you. I wish Milescraft would sell an 8' long piece because I'd be all in on it.
Sacrificial wood isn’t necessary to cut the the guide strip. It is stiff enough. What you may gain by using backing wood is to keep the trimmed-off guide strip pieces from flying about. They’ll go a distance-wear a face shield. Or just just the backing wood. If your saw has dust capture you’re ahead of the game. 😅 Also, don’t go beyond ‘snug’ for the set screws on the track joiners. ‘Good and tight’ can move the tracks vertically and create a tiny lip at the joint where the saw will have to be slightly lifted to clear. In one direction, anyway. Easily remedied, but best not to over-tighten with any of these aluminum pieces. I like this tool. Repeat cuts on plywood have never been quicker and cleaner.
Just bought one and am really impressed. My DeWalt 6-1/2” little wonder fits perfectly. Tip: after aligning your saw in the sled, add a strip of wood, on the sled, behind the saw with two sided tape. That way you can pop the saw in without adjusting its alignment with the face of the guide. Great tool. Great bargain.
Don't worry about changing the blade. Even if the new blade has a thicker kerf the track edge is set to the blade's inner edge and this doesn't really change from blade to blade. The kerf thickness goes outward. If that makes sense.
Not necessarily. If you change out the blade to a thinner tooth blade but the blade body is the same then the guide will no longer be accurate. I had the same problem with a DIY saw guide after switching to a new blade.
In my experience the kerf thickness goes both ways. That does mean the issue is only half as big as it could be
@rpjames11 what could u possibly need that level of accuracy for
@@smashyrashyIt's not just about accuracy, it also helps with tear-out
When standing behind the saw, if you correctly use the set up guide, the left side of any blade should be at the same place every time. You should be able to put in a dado set and never have the problem of cutting the guide. The left most part of the blade should be up against the guide while the thickness variation will entirely stretch to the right.
Jean, now this is what a product review should be like. Loved it. Very detailed and on point. Great job
I honestly like how in depth you went with this checking for things like play and what not, I've seen a lot of reviews that left me more confused about track saws than I was to begin with. Many thanks for this and thank you as always for sharing your time and knowledge.
Good job, thanks for doing this video. I'm just a weekend warrior and didn't want to invest in a new saw as I already have 3 (two cordless and one corded) and will only be using this to cut down large sheet goods on occasion. This system makes perfect sense for me and now that I know it will actually work I'm going to get one.
You helped me understand track saw in general. And considering the different dialects and vocabularies we have, I found your review extremely easy to understand and helpful regarding what tools make sense for me. Thank you for your time and expertise!
I’m a diy’er, homeowner.
I purchased the Milescraft track saw guide and I’m glad I did.
The building quality is very good.
The cut quality is quite good.
I just couldn’t justify the price of the higher cost track saws.
Great review, I really appreciate your thought process and thoroughness. I have used a similar product (Kreg’s AccuCut) on a circular saw, and recently I purchased a Makita track saw. My experience is that the accuracy of the circular saw additions is *slightly* poorer than the real track saw. This is NOT an issue if you are using the track to break down sheet goods but doing final cuts on a table or miter saw. For those that will *only* use a track saw and need the best possible, and repeatable, accuracy definitely get a real track saw.
The plunge feature of a real track saw allows you to get the saw fully supported before the cut begins, where the circular saw additions require having the saw off the workpiece to start. Again not a big issue but it does slightly impact accuracy and you definitely want to use the track clamps, which are less necessary on a real track saw.
The plunge and easy depth of cut adjustment on a real track saw allow for doing scoring cuts which is a BIG benefit when working with expensive hardwood faced plywood. The cutting strip on the track (either circular addition or track saw) prevent splintering in the “keep” side of the cut, but scoring prevents splintering on the WASTE side, which can save sone wood and eliminates the need to do two cuts to get clean edges on both sides.
For me, personally, the biggest benefit of the track saw was dust collection. It is VASTLY superior to any circular saw system.
Thanks again for all the great content!
Thanks for a great review on this product. Your product presentation was very well done and your demos and explanations were clear and concise making the video a pleasure to watch.
I set my tracksaw guide up today and wanted to watch a few reviews and setup guides to make sure I didn't overlook something and yours is one of the best reviews on this product. 👍
Thank you very much for this review. This came up as an advertisement a few weeks ago at my local tool supplier and I have been eyeing it up as a potential solution. Great review that answered all my questions!
And here I was, looking for an inexpensive track system to attach my Ryobi Circular Saw to and thinking I'd have to spend a huge amount of money just for a straightedge. Thank you! You've saved me a lot on money! Well done.
A very good and unbiased review. What you haven't mentioned is the problem with sawdust extraction. All dedicated plunge saws seem to handle this concern, as well as the ability to plunge cut. I also believe the side adjuster rollers should be rectangular or square to eliminate the rollers jamming up with sawdust. Overall, a good presentation. Cheers!!
By far the most in depth and comprehensive tutorial, from beginning to end, on the set up of the Milescraft Tracksaw Guide. I've watch almost a dozen videos in between trying to set mine up because this or that was not right. Finally came upon this post and it explained all my dilemma's, plus some. THANK YOU SIr!!
You’re a very good presenter.
Your video was well done.
Thanks for taking the time to conduct this review.
@@jefff6167 thank you.
Back in the 80's Black & Decker had a similar product with track and sled mounted C-saw albeit not as long and was designed for crosscutting at various angles. I still have one, it was called the miter-mate and was sold as an accessory for the Work-mate bench.
Looks to be a decent option for folks who do not want to buy a dedicated track saw... well made and packaged (~$100 USD in the states). I agree that for another $10-20 they should have included a carry bag to hold the entire setup and spare parts... perhaps even room for an extra pair of rails you almost certainly will need to get to extend your cuts to full size sheet goods. Most people buy these systems to break down 4x8' sheets and will need a rail that goes out at least 9', meaning four of them will be required.
The attachment method for the saw to the base looks a bit flimsy & weak, although understandable, so you need to be very careful when using it and whenever you set the saw down... don't knock it out of alignment.
My big issue is that rail length. I realize they split it into two to make shipping easy, but that adds flex points and extra assembly since you will almost always need to put at least the two together (and possibly four). Most standard tracks today come in 55" lengths.
Removing & reinstalling the saw went remarkably better than I expected
I'm a big fan of the product. Just ordered a new set of rails for full length plywood sheet cuts!
GREAT review. The main comparison would be Kreg or similar manufacturer not Festool as they are in a different class. That being said, I certainly will give this a look. I like that you took the saw off and reinstalled it so we can see that it really is an easy process. For the home sawdust maker, like myself, this is a good option for the occasional track use. Thanks again.
I have the Wen 7 1/4 corded track saw with a 110" track AND a clamp-on style product similar to this one. I consider the clamp style type a waste of money because the real track saw has spring plunge and is easier to work with all around. The blade guard on a regular saw also is a constant hassle. If you get the Wen, be sure you get the 110" track, not the 100" inch one. currently, both are being sold for about the same price.
Absolutely the best description on how to set this thing up and get running … I would’ve returned the track if it weren’t for this detailed explanation!
When adjusting the guide adjusters for the side to side play, if you have an old hack saw blade, it looks like you can slide the teeth of the blade against the guide to prevent it from turning, if that was the concern. Those teeth are directional, so lay the blade in there with the teeth pointing at you. If it's just lining all four the same, set the two end adjusters at the same time using a wooden wedge. Once both are set run a straight edge against the secured screw heads and set the inside two.
Nice review. I use a homemade version without a need for a saw cradle but I do like the fit and finish so I may spring for this at some point. I would actually put on a cordless dedicated saw on it and just leave it on since I do use a track saw often.
Great review. I have seen other reviews of this product and apparently they didn't read the manual. You make the set up look very easy. Milescraft makes pretty good products at a decent price and this is no exception. This would be perfect for anyone who already has a decent circular saw and doesn't want to invest in an expensive track saw. Well done sir.
Your photography is excellent. Everything is demonstrated clearly.
Hello there, by far that is the best video that I have seen going over the miles track saw. Thank you that really taught me a lot. I have been thinking long time if to buy one, now I am sure I will. Again thank you for the great vieo.
Overall a nice option compared to a dedicated track saw. As far as removing and reinstalling the saw to the base a simple use of the T track between the mounting hold downs would provide a nice area to make your own spacer to simplify reinstalling even more. No need for the blade spacer every time that way. This has probably just made it to my christmas list. Thank you for the review.
Very informative video. Thank you. I think that your video has gotten me off the fence and I'm going to definitely check local prices for one of these
Looks quite similar to the True Trac Saw Guide which I have been using for a few years now with good results. I encourage viewers of this video to check it out. Unlike the Milescraft system reviewed here, its rails come in 24", 48" and 57" (60cm, 120cm, 145cm) lengths. I have been able to make straight cuts on 12' (3.7m) and longer boards; in theory, with all the rails I've purchased. I could go up to 18+ feet (5.5 meters)! They also make and sell router bases that ride on the very same track. FWIW: I'm not in any way affiliated with True Trac.
Seems to be a very good track I have the Kreg universal track and it works well also
Excellent review,much better than reviews found elsewhere. I'm going to order one for my DIY cabinet making.
I’ve always liked Milescraft products. It would be nice if there were indents to help register the set screws when connecting the 2 pieces.
I love it. I'm adding it to my Christmas list. I would have liked to see an angled cut.
Excellent review of this track saw. Thank you. How does the cut look? Is it perpendicular to the adjacent face?
Good review. Will wait for the 55” single rail option.
I think track saws are valuable for those of us who need to breakdown 4' X 8' sheets of plywood and other materials but who have a small foot print shop. This would be a great solution to breakdown those sheets of oversized materials in the driveway, weather permitting.
Not just small shops like yours and mine, but trying to get a full sheet of 3/4" ply safely onto and through my table saw is simply impossible.
Depending on your budget this could be valid. I took the leap years ago to buy the xgt makita track saw, I’ll be honest…. It’s the one tool you should buy first. Unless your wood is more than 2 inches thick a track saw is so much better than a table saw . I know 1000 is a lot of money but it’s worth it
Perfect for breaking down sheet goods with all the precision you need unless making fine cabinets. Very impressed. Thanks for the review.
I already have 85mm vertical cut Makita corded and 60mm vertical cut Makita corded. The 60mm has an attachment to run on track and I've been very happy with it but it is slow to set depth. For making eg 100 beehives, this would be great with some cutting boards with stop blocks for repeat work.
I got one of these for a couple weeks ago for a saw I already have. For long straight cuts, it worked pretty well. Obviously, it can't really do bevel cuts.
I purchased a Bora track saw kit and the saw sled is all plastic. It seems intended for "full shoe" saws only. My cheap Skil sidewinder has a very narrow shoe and the MilesCraft works much better with it. You have to order from 2 different places, but you can get the MilesCraft for $135 delivered if you search the 'net enough. I use a 60 tooth "finish blade" on my 7 1/4" saw and I have no problems with chipping melanin coated MDF, particle board or "AB" plywood. A 48 or 50 tooth should do almost as well (carbide tipped, of course). HINT: More teeth mean more friction and heat and more "pitch" build-up on your blades. Oven cleaner or blade cleaner prevents burning the cut edge.
I have a major project coming up soon. And this looks like the best option other than buying a dedicated track saw just for one project.
Very good review. Excellent job overall. Couple of comments. When you're using a aftermarket jig type setup like this you are missing a riving knife. Which is a major plus of set-ups like Festool, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid Etc. Plus with a dedicated track saw you get exceptional dust collection.
Also bevel cuts and plunge start.
When the stock is moving through the blade, such as with a table saw, I'm a big proponent of the riving knife. However, I'm not sure it's as much of an issue when the stock is fixed and stable, as with this type of rig. It's really made for breaking down sheet goods.
I believe the only down side is that you cannot do bevel cuts. But for straight 90 deg cuts it's very good.
I love it! I only thought of one thing I’d have done differently and that would be the small swivel casters I’d have installed roller ball bearings. I think it’s a great design though!
I currenlty have two curcular saws. One is a Dewalt, that I bought as a refurbished swa, works great, but is extremely heavy. It is deinfitely built for more than what I do. I also have a Milwaukee M12 circ saw. I like th eprtability of this and would not want to dedicate it as a track saw. So I am in the situation where if I bought the Milescraft kit, I would also be buying circ saw.
Looks really good. And the price is okay too. A nice review the problems i expected werent there.
Wouldn't mind having a milescraft saw track guide,it would be an addition to my Bora NGX and WTX clamp. Like the c clamp it is away from the saw, clamping the track guide down. Wow
This is a really good review and I feel like it was extremely honest,
What a fantastic tool, Jean! It works amazingly! 😮
Congrats!!! And thanks for the review!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Looks like a very good alternative to a festool or makita system !
Yeah, the only downsides functionally is The cut depth compared to my Festool and the dust collection. If 1.75” depth of cut is enough and you won’t ever need to cut inside a house, this looks like an amazing product.
Great review and for the price, if someone already owns a circular saw, I think it's worth it.
Hi. Thanks for a very well elaborated presentation. I have a few questions. 1- can you do a bevel cut ? I guess not. 2- is it compatible with other main brands like Dewalt? 3- Did you try to put a straight edge against the cut to see if there is day light ? I would highly appreciate, if you advice. Thanks again.
A really great review thank you Jean!
Honest, objective and personally for me, means I don't have to justify paying a crazy amount for a track saw setup!
Cheers buddy, good luck! 👍
England are dead in the water... come on the Boks and Fiji! 🏉🇫🇯🇿🇦
Stay at it and take care of yourself. Thanks for sharing. Hopefully it will encourage others to do more for their own health too.
I'm surprised, this is the second video demonstrating this guide while using a 24T rip blade in the saw. Fine-tooth plywood cutting blades are available and don't cost much.
I really like the setup. The clamps are a great idea using the track to lock them in. I agree with you & everyone there should be a bag with it, they aren't that expensive. The one thought or question is is that this track only breaks down a 4 ft wide dimension. I would particularly want to use a track saw to break down lengths of plywood. Particularly, here in the States, a 4 X 8 ft sheet of plywood. Does this system come in a longer setup or do you have to get another one or two tracks & add on?
Great review tho.
Saw on!
An important thing for some users is what other saw/router track is the profile compatible with. There is the Festool profile and the near identical Makita profile (effectively interchangeable) versus the Triton/US tool profile, which are not interchangeable - it looks like Milescraft are trying to add a third standard, which kinda sucks for users who already have some investment in track guided tools or may want to add something like a router sled. (Then you have Bora who appear to have 2 different profiles within one brand)
£120 in UK money is bloody good value, for multiple saw users ! ..... thank you.
Nice review. One huge limitation I learned from another MIlescraft tracksaw review (which I didnt' hear mentioned here), is that you can't bevel with this tracksaw guide like you can with a dedicated tracksaw.. I don't know if there are other tracksaw guides that allow you to bevel. You may want to add that, as review is otherwise very thorough.
I'm was really confused. At 12:08 you pick up the clamps and leave behind 4 black plastic pieces. No mention of what they are for. The whole reason I came to this video. Maybe I missed it but I searched back and forth in this video and others to no avail. Digging deep in the manual, I found a side that's only used if needed for those 4 vertical clamps that secure the saw to the sliding plate. Unfortunately, my kit is missing the 2 vertical clamps that mount the back side of the saw (parts 8c). That added to my confusion. Anyway, it would be good to mention those in your video, seeing them left on the table adds confusion. Other than that, this is the best video I came across.
First of your vids, I've watched. Really appreciate the detail you provide. Well done.
Just brought it, saved hundreds of dollars
I heard it has problems with beveled cuts. Are you able to test that out as well?
Great review. I just bought one to handle breaking down sheet goods. What are the four left over round plastic parts that are flat on one side used for? Makes me wonder if I missed an assembly step.
I can see other uses as a straightening jig for long pieces of live edge on a table saw.
Thanks for the in-depth review.
Good review, thanks. These must be ok... try finding one to order in Canada🙄. It is an obvious compromise from a bigger table saw or a dedicated track saw but could be a useful addition. The sled looks a lot better than the Kregg version.
Thank you for sharing your video. It helped me make my decision.
Thank you, I've been looking a product just like this.
Can you buy 2 of them and put them together to make a long track?
Thanks - interesting product. How would bevel cuts go? I assume it might throw out the splinter guard and essentially require a replacement?
Excellent presentation. I like any well designed and made product but frankly, is all that gear and fussy setting up really so much better than simply clamping a straight edge to the work piece and using that to guide the saw? I suppose if you have dozens of cuts it might make sense.
Nice saw guide.
$899.00 US is much higher than I am not willing to pay for a saw guide that I would not use often enough to justify the cost.
For what I need I have found a 6 ft level that I can clamp onto the sheet goods works pretty good.
I can use it with either my corded or battery powered saw.
The blades are on different edges.
The milescraft saw guide with everything in this video is $99.00USD on their website, and the extra two packs of tracks are $80USD each. So, assuming you had a circular saw already, this would cost $180USD for everything shown in this video plus two extra tracks (giving you 100” of track total). It’s a Pretty affordable way to get into the track saw business, even if you had to add $200USD for a battery operated Dewalt 7.25” circular saw.
That’s about a sixth of what my Festool track saw costed five years ago and the only two major perks to mine over this setup is mine has 3” of cut depth compared to this ones 1.75” and the near perfect dust collection of the Festool.
@@surlycanadian Thank you.
I realized later that the price was not in US dollars.
$99 seems like a good price point.
I have a 15 amp Porter Cable corded saw for heavy cutting and a Ryobi 18 volt for cutting most thinner sheet goods.
I like this set up alot. Only downside is that saw setting guage. If i get one of these I will for sure lose the guage. I bag would definitely be a big plus
Great! Now I have to get a relative in S.A. to buy it and post to me... (Amazon EU does not have it...... yet)
I'll be buying that real fast awesome product review
A really good and interesting video, thanks for uploading!! Question - when you have a saw secured onto the plate, how far is the bottom of the circular saw base off the piece to be cut? Looking at this, I estimate it's around 1/2 inch?
Great review. Seems much more solid that the Kreg Accu-cut. I started with that one, but eventually took the "plunge" on a Makita setup. What really blew the doors open for me after the purchase were the accessories such as square guide and parallel guides. For me, that really turned the track saw into a valuable and versatile bit of kit and an incredible addition to the shop. While it's pretty cool to be able to upgrade the household circular saw and for making great, accurate straight cuts with it, I do wonder if these types of products will have some of that expandability down the road?
DIY tracks are pretty easy and cheap to make, and you can make jigs to add to them to do pretty much whatever you want. To me the only real advantage to a track saw is dust collection, and you have to buy a really good one to get decent dust collection. I'm just a hobbyist and personally ok with just sweeping up some dust after making my cuts, but I can see the advantage in a more professional setting,
The Milescraft appears to be compatible with the popular 'red' parallel guides.
I received my track saw earlier, it is a good tool, worse the price, but here are my remarks:
- the track saw guide needs adaptation when used with circular saw Maktec MT-583 (common in Thailand, cheap from Makita), there is interference with the butterfly nuts used to adjust the saw angle, I had to replace them with normal nuts.
- the saw could not be pushed back all the way against the end stop, I had to add a 20mm spacer (a bit of 20mm plywood).
- one of the rail connector had bad casting, there was a bit of aluminium sticking out, I had to file it back.
- the translation of the user manual in French is terrible, I am using the English version.
I feel like a missed opportunity to not include an anti-tipping feature since there is a t-track on the far side of the extrusion. What is that t-track for? Have you tried tilted cuts?
Only thing I don’t like about this one is that when I get the two pieces of the track put together square and straight, it leaves a small gap
At first glance I thought Woodpecker came out with a guide. LOL
What needs to take place is this guide up against Kregs. Kinda-sorta apples to apples since both make a circular saw into a track saw, but this does get your circular saw closer. My issue is I don’t want to have to take my circular saw off and on. IMO it’s worth every penny to invest in a track saw even if it’s the cheaper Ryobi.
I have the Kreg version of this design and I believe this is a much better product and better quality. I'm tempted to scrap the Kreg and buy this one. the Milescraft is only $10 USD more expensive, but you seem to get a much better product.
The big think that you're giving up is dust collection. This isn't just a matter of cleaning the shop less often. That's easy. Cleaning the lungs is a bit harder. Dust from a saw isn't the worst thing (the particles are pretty large) but it's not nothing.
There are cheaper alternatives other than Festool but I wouldn't go with this one.
Agreed. I picked up a Makita 2x18V system for about $520. Well worth it for my use and love it.
It likely fits a "sidewinder" style corded saw better than a battery powered saw.
Briliant video as normal thank you for your input
Great review, thanks!
Seem like a quality product thanks for sharing
I know that it may depend more on the saw, but how well does the track allow for angled cuts?
As said by others looks good. One thing you didn't show/mention was cutting at an angle... 45° or other. Does the blade still line up with the edge on the tracks?
It was missed in the review but unlike a plunge saw on a track, this track can not do bevel Edge cuts, it can only do 90° cuts.
Thanks.
Hello, are 45° cuts also possible with this?
Seems fine if you are only cross cutting sheet goods.
I have the Kreg Accu-cut and the Milescraft version. The Milescraft is far better for breaking down sheet goods and straightening edges on boards.
It looks symmetrical.
Will it work with a saw with the blade on the opposite side of the saw body? (i.e. Milwaukee M-12 Fuel 5-3/8 inch saw)
How does milescrafy compare to the similar PepsiCo offered by Kreg?
I'll stick to my 70mmx30mm aluminium straight edge and two f clamps. A lot cheaper & less mucking around when comes to packing up at the end of the day.
Great narrating kind Sir. Also, very well in Teaching and Instructing . Thank you for what you do for us. None finer! The item is WOW great. It should sell well.
Thanks, great video!