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Lessons Learned building a DIY CNC Router
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2017
- List of major components used: amzn.to/2i86rkt
In this video, I walk through the things about my design/built CNC router and discuss the things that I would do differently if I did it today.
For a general overview of the machine and some of the design considerations not mentioned here: • Overview of my DIY CNC...
Sketchup drawings of the machine and the plates, with dimensions: www.dropbox.com/s/1jw01mvd50g...
Where I sourced the mic plugs : www.midwestsurplus.net/
USB Smooth stepper: warp9td.com/index.php/products
All you say is quite valid, hindsight is a wonderful thing and even though I built my machine about 6 years ago I am still finding ways to improve it and ideas that if I did it again would do differently. But like you I love my machine just the way it originally was and now even more with the enhancements and modifications I have done over the years. I am not rushing into building another one but it is my eventual plan to do so and to incorporate all the things I have learned using the one I have. Thanks for the excellent videos and advice. We are all learning from each other.
The point you made about the XY block's holes alignment.... very good observation. This is why I watch so many videos like this to research. Trying to design my router as best I can the first time so I have fewer "surprises" down the road. I never would have thought about the alignment of those holes, but you are exactly right. I will have to go back to the drawing board with mine.
Thanks, for the tips. I'm still designing my machine. Taking it apart to fix something or how I would be replacing a part never crossed my mind. Great video.
Thank you very much those little things you pointed out will be very helpful for me as I am about to build my own cnc machine.
I hit the like button.
I am just commenting to say that this deserves more than a like!
Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks for the info. I'm in the process of building my cnc router machine.
Nice machine and video - well done! Realising that adjustment is king myself! Subscribed!
I am looking into building something in the 24" wide by 48" long work area range with a liquid cooled spindle. I am leaning towards the OX-metal "playbook" so to speak, but looking at all of the different ideas on RUclips and elsewhere sure do confuse the hell out of me :). But this CNC mill search sure is fun, learning all kinds of cool stuff. Thanks again for all the great info.
Nice rig! Regarding the fluid line, HP uses rubber hose in their large format plotters, to feed ink to the heads. Not sure of the pressure, but they seem to last forever.
It's still a very nice build! I run a G540 with UCCNC and I'm happy with that. Small foot print that I can run with a tablet.
Great video! I'm that guy on the couch... trying to build up my research. Thanks for your honest and personal critique. Currently on the fence for DIY kit vs. build. Just needing a little more intel from videos like this.
Good luck on whatever you decide. In the meantime, start playing with Fusion360...with your laptop....on the couch. ;) ~P
I went with a Masso controller, eliminating the computer and all the boards. Best decision I have ever made. Masso has updated and improved the software adding new functionality and features often. Highly recommended...
I really appreciate this video, Im just getting started and your vids has given me alot of insight on what to do going into building my first mini CNC machine. Thank you
Thank you. Good luck on your build. I am going to be doing another relevant video in the next month so look for that....or subscribe (shameless ask). ;) P.
For sure i will check next vid, and I'll subscribe.
Thanks for the video. Very useful.
Thanks for sharing experience! Your Y gantry slides is better be positioned in vertical plane, for having better stiffness, collecting less dust and taking less footprint on X plane.
The tape on your hat logo, priceless.
Great advice, thank you
Great video and good work. I had to laugh when you brought up Mach 3 and 32 vs 64 bit with parallel ports. It took me at least 2 months to get over that hurdle, and even then I didn't get over it, I just went around it. Ive been using fusion 360 for CAD and CAM, but like you I started with easel and still use it from time to time. When I built mine I wasn't able to spend a lot of money so there's a ton of things ill be doing different. That's actually what brought me here today, I'm getting ready to rebuild. Thanks for all your tips...USB all the way!
Good luck on your build. I am starting work on a plasma CNC. I'll be re-using my control podium from the router, so 'all' I need to do is build the machine. If I would carve out the time, I could get it done this winter. We'll see.
I'm using 8020 3x3. Very similar to yours. I'm going to put a 3rd linar slide on the vertical part of the x axis to help with the possibility of the z axis flex.
I really want to get started on a table for my plasma, I sure appreciate what you are sharing. Have you considered building a 3D printer? The idea of going to a salvage yard and buying some scrap aluminum, casting out a part I printed and then finishing it on the lathe or the mill sounds sweet to me.
Thanks for all advise.
Nice job!
for the bar underneath just set it back further,rather than higher so you get the stable rigidity of the length of the leg held as is,the higher up you go the legs will wobble ,even made of the box it's made from,for the water feed hose,use coiled air hose,the type used in airbrakes on articulated lorries/trucks,so it can extend and recoil,nice big table though,i could put it to some good use myself.
fantastic stuff, thanks very much
So I have been building a cnc machine based off of Smokey's cnc Woodshop. Which has alot of your machine characteristics. Mine is a beast and I think weighs around 400lbs.. I'd share some pics but can't post in YT.... Your machine is kick ass btw!
Thanks for the videos; perfect timing to come across them, as I am in the conception stages of a similar 4' x 2' machine.
One question regarding your dual Y axis motors. How are they controlled? One or two power supplies? Wired parallel? Y and (?) axis in Mach 3? Thanks
Hello, i have made a cnc frame 40 x 60 cm wide with v slot aluminium profiles, have mounted 16mm rods and bearings and a router trimmer. Wanted to ask: for this cnc frame size and 16mm rods and bearings: 1. what thickness of lead screws should i use and 2. which is the smallest stepper motor that i can use ?
Nice video , thx for share the info.....
Thanks for the pointers
Hi there, can I ask please, for an example of the USB stepper boards you mentioned? regards
A tip, there are XLR connectors with 5 and 7 pins, same type of mic-housing as you see in your video
what is the length of travel in the Z-axis and what is the distance of the gantry over the spoil board
What stepper motors did you install?
Great video! I like the honesty and insight into a build 1 year later. Question: Why don't you have limit switches on the machine? Or maybe I just missed them. Thanks again, it's very helpful for first time builders like me.
I didn't miss them. I'm putting them off. In all honesty, the only place I wish I had limit switches is on the Y axis and that is only so I could use homing to square the beam periodically. Other than that, I have never missed them. Thanks for asking. ~P
in regards to your coolent boom, your system seems like it has a lot of room overhead, why not:
1)extend the vertical a foot or so higher, LEAVING the boom @ the same height, but then
2) run a guy-wire (i'm sure it's called something different) from the top of the vertical to the end of the boom.
this should give that flapping boom stabilization. You then may even be able to use a thin-walled 1" plastic pipe to run your tubes/cables though in order to dress it up.
Russ from Coral Springs, Florida, USA
Thanks for sharing what you learned!
I realize I'm kinda randomly asking but do anyone know of a good site to stream newly released movies online?
@Ibrahim Blake I watch on FlixZone. You can find it on google =)
@Reuben Henry Yup, been using Flixzone for since april myself :D
@Reuben Henry thanks, I signed up and it seems like a nice service :) I really appreciate it!!
@Ibrahim Blake happy to help xD
about the Ethernet smooth stepper KEEP IT.. it is way practical than the USB.. i got the USB Smooth stepper the max cable length it can take is only 1m long .. longer than that data interference will happen and wont be reliable... I am thinking of buying the Ethernet one so i can move the controller PC a bit further from the machine or even control it from any were else in the house wirelessly or even overseas via internet and a static IP
and for the coolant reservoir you can use an IKEA SAMLA plastic box it comes in various sizes and heights transparent if you want to monitor or black ...... it will fit well under there
and if you are planning to buy new rails get the squared ones they're way more precise they have zero play but your machine has to be perfectly leveled and paralleled or they will stall
I just re-read your post....and after this weekend, I can see myself kick off a job from Europe and crashing the cutter. Long way to the e-stop, but hay... I wouldn't hear the carnage! ;)
Just a follow up. I found a need for a 'second' break out board and found that CNC4PC has a breakout board that plugs directly into the ESS. No more parallel cables. I'm going to hook it up tonight.
Hi. Recent new sub, I like your videos and your presentation style, very informative. Nice intro as well with the aerial videography. Thanks.
Thank you Steve. I have been dying to do something with my Mavic so I thought I'd do an intro. There isn't much call for aerial video when in the shop. ~Preston.
Why u choose pillow blocks, against linear guideways?
Great vid and info thanks
Your welcome.
have you done video on putting the smooth stepper in your computer yet? I've run into the same problem and am researching if I should change over to the other system other than Mach 3 that so many people have talked about. If you had good luck changing yours over I'd like to see how you went about everything. Thanks so much for your videos, they are really helpful.
I know I shot a video, but I don't think I ever edited it. I am having zero problems and in fact wouldn't do it any other way in the future. Shoot me a PM with your challenges and I'll see if I can help.
the "mic" plug is called a "DIN" plug,they get used for all sorts of machines,for the reasons you like them,good current rating too, i would have used aluminium box or shaped extrusion for the rails of the gantry,lighter and as stiff.
If you want to avoid having to buy all the extra cables you could buy a set of make and female plugs and cut them at the machine so you have "extension cords" between your motors and control box.
Also you mentioned the Speaker/microphone plugs you can also by the corresponding mic/speaker cords to connect your motors. They can be can be orderd to length and you dont have to make them. Not sure if you have discussed it yet or not
Someone else suggested the 'extension cord' affect. I may do that. I can say that this video has inspired me, with comments from the community to re-do my cooling. That video is coming. I'm still waiting on one part.
I hadn't thought about buying a pre-made mic cord. I have zero music background so none of those items dawn on me. Other than maybe a cost issue, being able to buy them would be a reasonable way to go. Thanks for the thoughts. P.
You got to love thise bold devil may care words of encouragement for the edge sitters out there. I was about to buy a turn key system and then realized I was going to have to send my money off and do biz with people that are half a world away, and the I might as well do some bulding of my own. I didn't have enough room for their version of a 4 x 4 table anyway, plus I would have definitely needed a forklift to make it happen in about three situations Yes I have access to one, but no it doesn't reside here. :-) So apart from needing a deal on Hiwin and ball screws I think I have found almost everything and I proudly announce that, I have purchased the first installment of 8020 T-Slot aluminum extrusions two days ago so, the sales people in China aren't going to very happy.
Congratulations! 80/20 is a super convenient looking way to build structures. There is a reason their catalog says the 'adult erector set'. Good luck on your build. ~P
I can't believe how much easier it is to get a 4 x 4 linear rail kit on amazon. It is painful on Ebay. I was having heart failure after searching there :-) As for the 80/20 obviously some of the cross cuts are mission critical and proprietary insert anchors means some machining to prep. I don't have access to a decent machine shop but do I trust myself for crosscuts. Drill press is going to require some work. Your shop has some very nice assets and I wish I was a neighbor :-) On an end note, I found some used stock for an incredible price and cant duplicate the profile.I have a 5 hour round trip to pick it up yet. The photo in the ad shows ~7" or 180mm tall and so far even 80/20 Head office can't I.D. I am so tired of the preamble buddy. :-( EDIT : I am still using 0.100 2x2 steel for the base BTW Regards,C
Did you pick up the material and was it everything you expected?
I understand your apprehension about dealing with China through Ebay. There is some history there others talk about. This is exactly why I added the link to Amazon. I feel more comfortable dealing with Amazon. When I built my machine, most of these things weren't on Amazon that I could find.
Not to disparage Ebya, I had the seller 'LoveMyCar' put together the set I bought. They were super easy to work with and although the shipping package wasn't spectacular, it did all arrive without issue. ~P
ps....Sorry you don't like my preamble
Thanks for your video, could you elaborate on your choices of ball screws and nuts ?
Not much to say there. The rails and screws came as a set from the vendor. They are still in use today and working fine.
Take my word for it, stay away from the USB motion controllers if you do not have shielded wire to your steppers. Use motion controllers with ethernet in a pinch or shielded wires wherever possible. I got lucky that I chose to go with the Pokeys57cnc motion controller which has both USB and Ethernet. As soon as I turn on the spindle it creates so much RF interference the USB connection simply stops working. So I am now using ethernet which works with the unshielded, but also plan on making them shielded wires to be sure (and keep working if I go for a different spindle like a Poseidon or the cheaper chinese VFD sets).
Hi man, awesome ! not many people talk about what they don't like, very helpful for starting builders !!. PS: Quick tip, The "microphone" connector you refer to is actually a data connector and is not really appropriate for high loads. These connectors are officially made by neutrik (you are rocking a nice chinese knock off). Here is a link to the power line of connectors, www.neutrik.com/en/power/. The once you are using can be OK (called XLR connector) for low voltage, low wattage use, but their primary use is digital and analog signaling. XLR connectors are made with a metal body and a very small rubber coating in between the pins that can burn away over time and create fireworks if loaded with too much power. I work as a lighting Designer / Technician for Television and rock and roll touring for about 20Years now. We use (the correct) Neutrik connectors extensively for everything from fiber data thru 30 Amp power distro. Hope this helps, Rock On ! Cheers.
I built a Dave Gatton designed wooden CNC about a year ago and It works great. I am thinking of going bigger with a metal CNC router. I have been thinking using 80/20 (expensive) but I see yours is 2x2 tube. I like the idea and have the capability but my concern is warping of the frame during construction. Are my concerns founded? Also what is the wall thickness of your tube?
...crap...I lost the reply I had typed....
Warping....The only concern for warping I can think one might run into is with heat from welding. In this design the only welding on the gantry axis framework are the stub legs that are then bolted to the table. In that case, you have a place to shim and adjust out any warp. I did not find that to be of concern although I planned for it. Check out the overview video and I show more of the places where I built in adjust-ability. I added a link in the comments.
The gantry tubing is 2x2, but the Y axis frame is 3x3. I think the wall thickness is .125" (3mm), but might be .1875" (5mm)
Thanks for the questions. Preston.
Nice machine, I like that it's fairly sturdy. A lot of the home built ones I've seen seem a bit flimsy. I'd like to try my hand at something like this, maybe a bit sturdier yet so it can handle machining steel. The fabrication part would be easy enough for me, but I have no clue about the electrical and software part of it. Do you have a background in CNC or where did you learn how to make all the electronic part work together?
Siegfried Gust I don't have a background in it. The parts are all fairly plug and play. The breakout board and Mach3 are where it all comes together. If you are comfortable with their setup instructions then you have it mostly linked. Good luck ok on your build.
Hey, man. A couple of quick questions, if I may:
1. Is there any reason behind lowering the spindle that much in the spindle mount? To me, that looks like an unnecessary added weakness (the longer the arm of the force, the greater the force / deflection)
2. The X motor is mounted on a really thin (to my eye) sheet of aluminium (what is that, 8mm?). Is this enough to prevent any flexing of that plate, when encountering larger X-side forces?
Thanks!
Eros Nicolau The reason for the spindle being that low is simply for reach. I can't reach the table with small bits if I dont. It is a design flaw. As for the X axis, it is plenty. the forces are all twist. the bearings on the lead screw take up the linear force.
No problem with that . Is normal to happen we learn and with each build you are learning about rigidity how the forces with the movement behave. Structural tensions vibration and noice supresion and design improve A time when you will choose servo over steppers no matter the cost. You only want biuld better with each build RP or ball screws. Precision and usable working speeds. With each build we learn improve and get further!
My next build is a CNC plasma table. It will be much easier to build as there are almost zero lateral forces and precision, although important, is still just a plasma arc. Thanks for the encouragement.
Thanks for putting these videos together. I'm just about to get started on a smaller lighter duty multi machine. I'm planning to do interchangeable spindle/ plasma torch/ 3d print head. Did you get flats ground on your box sections where you mount the rails, or just used them as they came?
I used them as is. This comes up fairly often. Maybe I should do a video. There are several reasons why I did nothing. 1)It didn't seem necessary. They were straight and flat (enough). 2) I made sure to NOT mount the rails on the welded side which often is a little more raised across the width. 3) I have no practical way to do it. Not to mention the wall thickness won't allow for much. 4) And maybe the most help, is that if you look at a cross section of the aluminum extrusion that the round rail is mounted to, there is a relief in the middle, negating most if not all of the rise in the middle of the tube width. Hope this helps. ~P.
sbirdranch Thanks, yep, that makes perfect sense.
Good insights.
Thanks. P.
Check your drawing. I did the CAD on it and left it for you to expand to the rest of the pockets.
I'm getting ready to build a 6090 sized machine to mill AL, and even though your vid is three years old it has some interesting insights!
Your X-axis design is the first I have seen like that; shafts mounted horizontally; brute strength to carry the load I suppose. You eliminated the vertical gantry legs found in most designs by elevating the rails above the work space; clever!
I might make mine that way, but with the X-axis beam vertical to take advantage of the I-beam effect and reduce weight of the X-axis beam. I suppose you have the X-axis shafts horizontally to reduce twist from the dual X steppers, but that should not be a problem if the steppers are synchronized.
Why the heat sink on your X stepper? Maybe the current sensor logic is not cutting back the idle holding current? Or is it hot when running, in which case, the motor is perhaps too small.
One upgrade you could make is closed loop steppers which what I am going to use along with square rails.
Ethernet interface on your motion controller; PC can be anywhere you have ethernet.
I still love my machine and have made only a couple of changes. Like I am switching to square rails as you are considering.
The heat syncs were there before I had my current settings dialed in. I just never took them off. The NEMA 34's are plenty of motor.
Nice videos. Did you end up going with the NEMA 34 or NEMA 23 for your Z-axis? I'm using some old NEMA 24 (431 oz.in) from a previous build and finding they are a bit undersized (on x-axis, possibly y) for what I'm trying to do. I'm looking at NEMA 34 1200 or 1600 oz.in, but I'm leery about pulling the trigger on a larger motor for the Z-axis.
I did pull the trigger for all 1200 oz 34's. Then when I got to the Z axis, it was just too much motor and weight out there for my liking and need. So, I reduced the Z axis motor to a 23. It has more than enough grunt given the mechanical advantage provided by the ball screw. In the 'practicle' stepper review video, I note the size of the 23 as 400 oz.
I ran my first test programs last night and the x-axis lost its step - between programs while in rapid mode. I went through quite a bit of work aligning x and y, so I'm thinking the motors are too weak for my heavy gantry. I re-zeroed and got the part to turn out anyway, but I think I'll bite the bullet and order the upgraded motors. Getting a 3-axis kit and will probably leave my 431oz.in motor on z and start looking at building a 4th axis. Enjoying your videos, keep posting.
Hi great Job!
I watched the videos concerning your cnc machine.
I cannot find out, which kind of Rails you are using. SBS 20 or bigger ?
SB 20's is correct.
Nice! thanks for your information :D
You could take 1/4" flat bar and drill and tap it and put it inside the Gantry tubing for the bolt being installed up from the bottom that way you don't need to weld nuts in there. The Flat bar will act like the Nuts and wrench in one little package.
That's beautiful. Perfect!
I made a small search to see if someone made that comment before making it myself...
Other possibility is to weld the nuts on a small flat instead of tapping it, then sliding in the tube.
Ethernet isn't going anywhere.and USB has cable length limitations, as Mohamed Gaafar identifies. They run Ethernet in factories, where the amount of machine interference is, by comparison, astronomical. So you made a good choice initially.
sir i m very much interested in building my own cnc routerbut i have no knowlwdge of electronics.which course should i join to learn so that i can build my own cnc router
I would suggest looking at the electronic (motors and drivers) available from CNC Router parts, or something from Geco who makes full electronic packages. There are a ton of videos on how to hook up the motors and drivers. In fact, most of the kits (motors, power supplies and drivers) from ebay come with a starter version of the breakout board that you hook to your computer.
I learned from videos on YT which led to vendor research and reading guides to hooking things up. Best of luck.
Your y axis has 2 motors. Are they wired parallel our separate drivers. Is there calibration procedure
They are completely separate. Coordination of the motors happens at the controller (Mach3 in my case). There is the concept of 'slaving' that is applied. It also allows you to reverse one motor if needed. ~P
I'm stuck wondering If a silicone tube would work for the. Spindle lines in the cable track.
As long as they don't kink. It would be cool if they were. There would be some reduction in flow just based on the length of the hoses, but it doesn't take much flow to do the job.
Sir.. do you have Z axis design drawings in PDF ? I don’t have sketch up
No sir. I do not.
I was wondering how much you spent on creating your machine it looks awesome!
About 2k USD
do you have a parts list by chance, Im looking into building one myself
In my overview video, there are some links to what I used in the video description:
ruclips.net/video/gg2UvbRsLP0/видео.html
Great looking machine! Congrats on that. I have built a similar CNC machine just a bit longer and I'm using rack and pinion on x , y and ball screw on z with nema 34 1600oz/in steppers. My question is what max speed you achieved with your machine? My z axis motor stalls after 1500 mm/min but I can push the x and y somwere around 4500mm/min considering I'm using r&p on those axis. Thanks!
Marsel Mars I get about 750mm/mm before I get concerned about missing steps. I blame the harmonic that starts in those really long ball screws. I am starting a plasma machine now and will be doing belt drive. it will behave much like your r/p so your info is promising.
sbirdranch the harmonics come form the motors the long screws produce whipping. I have some really bad noise and vibration from the motors caused by harmonics at about 1000mm/min and I can't install harmonic dampers on the motors since I don't have a rear shaft on them, hopefully I will upgrade to servos after earning some money with the machine :)
I was thinking about the general vibration on these machines, and wondered if the same acoustic dampening compounds used in sound studio construction could be applied to a CNC's motor casing
horse1066 there are ways to cancel the vibrations with harmonic dampers mounted on the rear shaft of the motor. But in my case this is difficult because I don't have rear shafts. also the vibrations are transmitted trough the shaft and applying some sond proof material on the case I don't think will help much. There is a need for a mechanical damping solution similar to the car engine crank shaft damper.
Thanks for the overview!
Why not use a beaglebone black PC on a chip? Instead of a big control station, I'd want to use my smartphone or tablet to remote control the program running on a beaglebone.
Dejay Rezme in short because Mach3 doesn't lend it self to it. I didn't even consider some alternative control computer. I had more than enough to challenge me. As for remote control, I can't imagine wanting that. The workflow of setup, zeroing and cycle start are all done at the machine.
Ah too bad there isn't support for something like that yet. I think it would be perfect for "remote" control. Remote in the sense that you control the computer wireless from a tablet in your hand while standing right in front of the router.
i watched your last video concerning the rail and saw how terrified you were in comparism to the other rails, my question then is, how has it been working with you now and would you recommend same to me for example who also want to buy the inexpensive Chinese rail? thanks and your respons would be highly appreciated Sir.
terrified....maybe a little strong. Concerned for sure.
To be honest, they are working pretty well. I have replaced a couple of bearings and have another one that is popping and cracking. To that end, I have some replacement bearing upgrades that I am going to try (and video). Look for that.
I am looking to improve the machine in several ways and some of them are in video already. Given how well the overall machine works, if I had to do it again I would do it with square rails. They are more money, but with hind sight I would go that route. What I have is working and continues to work. My expectations and demands of the machine are beyond what they were when I started. I didn't know if I could event make the thing work at all initially.
Hope that helps. ~P
got it! thanks
Regarding your computer, I wasn't sure if I understood your thinking, did you mean that the USB Smoothstepper is preferable to the Ethernet version?
Great video, the hindsight gained is just as useful as the build progress.
Both the USB and Ethernet Smooth Steppers are acceptable and perform the job well. I would look at the USB version if I did it again simply for the decreased complexity in the setup. For USB it is plug in, load drivers and go. things we do a lot with our home computers. The Ethernet version, although well documented, requires network setup and things that are more complicated and prone to error not to mention getting outside of peoples comfort zone.
Ah, thanks for the reply, I reckon I'd be OK with the setup, but yeh it's awkward if it doesn't work first time because there would be a zillion reasons why.
edit: after a bit of research, a lot of people recommend the ethernet version, just a FYI
Get a Mesa Electronics anything I/O board. It's real hardware not tinker toys.
Got a link for the spindle mount?
Mine came with the kit, but it is 80mm in diameter. Here's a link to one that will work.
www.ebay.com/itm/80mm-Spindle-Motor-Clamp-Mount-Bracket-Diameter-Screws-for-1-5kw-2-2kw-Spindle-/201577527831?hash=item2eeef4fa17:g:h84AAOSwYmZXKuqe
i appreciate this video very much! Where did you get those massive heat sinks on your motors? are those necessary? Also, did you say something about a parts list?
Those heat sinks came from the same place that the mic plugs came from. There is a link in the comments. They do web sales and are available to talk on the phone, so you don't have to be local. I'm not affiliated. They are just good guys. If you talk to Dave, tell him you are asking about something from Preston's video.
Back to the heat sink...No. They are not necessary. I turned the amperage down at the driver and they no longer get hot. There is more on them in the overview video. I added a link to the video comments.
Preston.
sbirdranch thanks so much! I'm working on putting together a plasma cutter table!
Really! So am I. I just started getting my design down in Fusion360 now that I have my paper sketches worked out. I will be doing videos on that build as it progresses. Good luck with yours. ~Preston.
sbirdranch so cool! do you think it's worth getting Fusion 360 before you even have a running machine? I thought it might help to sort out my design ahead of time.
I sort out my design best on paper first. It is way faster and I don't have to think about anything except the design. Then I model it in something (I used Sketchup for this machine) to get dimensions right, etc. It I am encumbered with learning how to draw while trying to design, I loose focus on what is important. In the case of my plasma, I am modeling what I drew on paper with actual dimensions. I am getting practice with Fusion360 and I will be cutting my parts out of wood first for prototype and final fitting.
Being that your situation probably qualifies you for a free copy of Fusion360 I see no reason to wait. In fact knowing how you are going to do your CAD and CAM is going to be very important lest you won't get very far post build. A funny story here is I speak from experience....I finished my machine and realized I had no G-Code to play with. In my case I used Easel to make a quick widget to play with.
So what I don't know, is how to do sheet metal/plasma stuff in Fusion. There is a plugin I believe for the CAM piece. Maybe someone else with more experience can speak up here.
How accurate is the machine? In microns. Thanks.
As I cannot measure that small (micron), I will tell you that the step increment can be dialed down to .0005 of an inch, but I have about .003" of lash/play in the Y axis and about that same amount in Z axis deflection.
a good solution to the waterbucket problem could be a plastic fuel cell from summit racing
www.summitracing.com/int/parts/jzp-892-010-01/overview/
or an old watertank out of an RV
price is about 70 bucks new....... be cheaper to just raise and re-weld the crossbrace on the table so the bucket fits
for the touchplate : router or drill a small pocket intoo the side and gleu / epoxy in a realy strong magnet , now you can stick it anywhere (on metal)
wat you could do with the gantry problem is weld nuts on a plate that fits inside the box section (basicly make realy big t nuts) and put the screws in through the adapterplates from below like you mentioned
i read up on usb boards because i planned to go that route as well wat i found out is : not all of them work well with mach3 (no add ons available to make them work ) and that there succeptible to electrical interference
ethernet types board's (like the smoothstepper and some russian made one ) seem to do better with the interference
it might allso be handy to be able to follow the mach3 progress from the livingroom laptop
i allso recently learned that even if some USB BOB boards work (AK250) , , they dont alow slaving two steppermotors together (channel A and Y in my case ) wish felt to me like a record scratching across to the end
at this moment i'm looking intoo this : www.ebay.de/itm/UC300ETH-5LPT-ethernet-motion-controller-for-Mach3-/112201995325?hash=item1a1fc2943d:g:yM8AAOSwx2dYJtMV
and closed loop steppermotors
Nice video! I noticed on the monitor you had a rifle - does that mean you are making stocks? If so you may want to add a 5th axis.
Just sayin!
I am a long way from proficient with 3 axis to start thinking about more. I have considered doing some custom stock work, but my vision only has me machining the area for the trigger group, breach and barrel. The rest I would rough cut on the band saw and then hand shape the rest. ~P Oh...and the picture is a Browning XBolt in Maple
I took a couple of courses with the intent to understand it and get my 1 year certificate, nut ran out of money! Will go back once the dust settles financially. If you have questions, feel free to ask - the only thing is I night go :UHHH... lemme check." and ask one of the professors I kept in touch with if I get stumped!
I started with 3d printing I am now looking at making up a cnc making, I don't suppose you wish to donate your smaller machine?
The 'little one' is still just control parts and I promised them to a friend to teach his daughters.
Good luck on a CNC. I think you will find it very complimentary to your 3D printing. ~P
Can you do aluminum or steel?
I can do aluminum, but steel would be a reach. The limitation is in the rigidity of the Z axis. I have a video on the touch off block I made. It is aluminum and cut on the router. ~P
plugs on both ends, because why not?
too bad no one makes a quick change for the chinese spindles.. i have a 1.5kw on my machine and changing tools sucks. im think of making an end mill holder set on the lathe for rapid tool changes
Good job..just one thing toi need à more powerfull spindle..this 1500 watts are To small
For wood? Sounds more than ok to me. Even aluminum. Also, the spindles above 1.5KW seem to have a little more radial run-out occasionally. You can get lucky, but it is a factor to consider.
Just a quick tips don't use those round bearing rails use profile rails . They are sooooooo much better. The round rails will have a lot of slop in them you will get much better accuracy and cleaner cut with a profile rail at least on a cnc router or mill. A plasma won't make a whole lot of difference.
When you say 'profile rail' is that they flat rectangular rails? P.
Yes the are rectangular. They have 4 contact points on the sides for circulating balls. You can find Chinese rails for good prices and pretty good quality.
Its one of the most important upgrades you can do!
I would be interested to try those as a replacement of the round ones on the Z axis for sure. Thanks for the suggestion. ~P.
He means Hiwin rails. They are 92$ a meter and 115$ for 1.5m with the carriages. Knock offs are a bit less
About bering and screw hole, Don't blame them, blame yourself because you forget to oversize screw hole and that's it. Chinese bearings like everyone others have tolerance on Dave dimensions.
Just cut the cables at the motor and add one more pair of connectors ;)
Elegant and Simple. I might do that. ~P
for you biggest problem why not just use hex head bolts and then you can fit a ratchet spanner down the square tube
Your voice is very similar to Kurt Russell..
Now to modify to accept not only a router but an everlast plasma cutter torch to cut metal.
your just being picky about your machine
As with anything you build or create, you are your own worst critic. Thanks for the compliment. ~P