DIY Linear Rails No Drawer Slides
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- Опубликовано: 19 мар 2018
- In this installment video related to the building of my CNC Plasma table, I review the linear rail design I am implementing. Although this rail design doesn't apply to spindle machines, anything else like a plasma or a pick and place, this design will work with.
The design was inspired by glimpses of production machines I have seen on YT, that I adapted to my needs and understanding.
I look forward to your thoughts around simplification and improvement. ~P 
Хобби
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I stole your idea to design a sliding table for my bandsaw. Because the bar stock for the rail is so consistent I was able to eliminate the bell cranks.
These rails are so much better than drawer slides!
That is a great idea. Glad this gave you the idea. I'm going to keep it in mind for a future sliding table I have considered. ~P
Thank you for your smile, thank you for the time you take to make the videos, but also the time you take to explain the details that make the interest of the realization. I really like the principle of automatic adjustment. Simple, indeed! It's simple, but you still had to think about it.
Thank you, man. I’m on a super tight budget with high standards and this is gonna be helping me make a surface grinder attachment for my 2x36 without sending money to China or spending a ton. I appreciate this so much.
I like the way you think sir, will be following your build, reckon I can learn a lot!
Thank you for taking the time to film your build. Not that you need it, but I wish you best of luck with your build.
Ian
South Africa
Thank you for being so generous with your time and sharing so much information.
Very clever, using the tensioner!
I sure wish I saw this before I machined my rails. I'm part way through offset turning some ridiculously overly complicated, difficult to adjust, unforgiving, time consuming, PITA , wish I'd never started, "eccentrics" that I designed for keeping tension on the bearings. Your "control horns"(lol), look to be a MUCH simpler and more forgiving solution. Looks like I'm changing gears again while I still have my sanity. Thank you very much for the helpful video and reminding me accuracy in certain components doesn't always matter as long as the desired result is met. :>) Smart work !
Hey!... cheer up, I bet they look good! ;o)
brilliant design, have been looking for good concepts, this is the best yet
I found short self-tapping screws work quite well for attaching the flat to the square tube.
You still need to drill the holes, but don’t need to tap them.
Thanks for this upload, I have been researching for the last month and compiling different build plans to minimize build cost yet yield precision and rigidity, Your bottom spring loaded bearing design looks very effective thumbs up to you sir.
great design
your video inspired me a lot. i can't do preceise work but i'll make it adjustable.
also i'ill use v bearings for my diy 3d printer.
Looks like a good design to me. Will work beauty for a plasma table which be plenty precise enough. Bought a blue Magnum Sharpie, btw. I have that same tapping stand; what a great purchase!
Those sharpies are amazing. I used one the other day to highlight an old serial number plaque so I could read the numbers. As for the tap stand...I agree. Mine was purchased originally by my father after his stroke. ~P
BEAUTIFUL thank you so much
Thanks for sharing!
Clever design.
Mister you are the best .... amovible bearing whaoo thank you ...
Your too kind.
AWESOME 👌🤓
thank you. Good job
Thank you! Very nice content
Glad you liked it!
thank you man continuos
best design ever
yeah it's a good and cheap design, 3d printers use them alot.. most are with accentric nut but i have seen some with spring tension. obviously the only fault with spring tension is you can't have any load pushing on the spring. like in the example you showed if you load a spindle on that carriage it will push it up against the bottom wheels and can even drop the carriage from the rail. a way to counter that is have two rails with the tension wheels opposite of each other (two on top, two on the the bottom in your example). but that makes things more complicated which is why the accentric nut is the popular method.
Brother presur levers....are goog
I liked it.... And will try it....
like #1000. good work man!
很棒的設計！
If you need to use counter sunk screws so the Heads are flat with the surface of the rail, you can drill and Tap a length of flat bar the thickness of the bolt thread to keep the thread strength. That way you don't have to worry about getting a nut and wrench down the inside of that long rail.
Thank You
Nice
Keep the weight of the gantry as light as possible. A rigid aluminum extrusion would be the best. The less mass you have to move the sharper your corners will be. Cutting speed is everything when cutting light guage sheet metal. I have a quick overview of my cnc plasma table on my channel. Check it out. It might give you some ideas. My linear rail was made out of surplus stuff off of eBay. I didn't pay a lot for it. I like your rail system...I almost went that route but got a deal on my linear rails and it saved me a lot of work.
Thanks for the tip. I'm heading to your channel now. ~P
"if you cant make It precise, at least make It ajustable"
I know that reference :3
good lord yes
Or the variation... "If you can't make it precise, make it so cheap you won't regret scrapping it!"
owo
perfect, now I can sleep
I haven't looked through all the comments, but i was wondering if anyone had mentioned how, while the idea of the tension-ed v-wheels is a good one, they probably wont' hold up to any back pressure on the Y-rails unless the mount on each side are reversed from each other. also, for an X-gantry, the spring loaded tension would probably not hold up to sideways pressure placed by cutting to the spring-loaded side of the v-wheel mount. i may be wrong, and i'll watch the further videos on this.
keep up the great work,
Russ from Coral Springs, Florida, USA
You are correct in all counts. These rails are going on a plasma cutter.
I'm already watching video for the third time, there would be some video on how to fix screws
What size v groove are you using many thanks for answering in afcance
Whose advertising do you have blacked out on your cap? LOL Put it on bottom bearings first, then raise it up and over the top rail. Great work on the rails. Good ideas employed. Always a pleasure to watch your videos, your always smiling.
J and L Industrial supply. I had a moment of self importance and decided I didn't want to give them the free advertising. Silly.
your side plate could be put in a jig for plane ing awesome ideas thanks i'm going to copy your idea the top v grove may have more stability if they offset horizontally by the width of square tube now look what you've done thanks for the inspiration
Watch out. Crazy things happen when you start thinking ;) ~P
Very smart idea, I've been thinking to do the same then I imagine a rooter motor mounted on this kind of X axis. An upward force created by the motor bit contact will be transfered directly to lower spring loaded bearing and make them move a bit upward causing my cnc to be inaccurate !!!! What do you think?
Interesting project, I like your engineering philosophy. I will be following your design intently. I'm currently rehabbing my shop, when finished I will be working on my own system. I hope you don't mind if I copy some of your design ideas, I will of-course give full credit on my channel?
Copy....improve...go for it. I will/have put all the current drawings out in the public domain. I will be putting those links in the next video, which will be a virtual tour of the intended complete design. That way you don't have to wait for me to finish it, and I don't have to wait to finish it go get what might be some really good insights. ~P
I shared the Fusion drawing in advance..... a360.co/2IBatgK
Thank You
In the unlikely event (famous last words) the carriage would crash, may I suggest an adjustable stop on the bogie wheel bell cranks; adjust them to the necessary range of motion but not so-much that the carriage could de-track.
did you consider some of the extruded aluminium systems like like V-slot/C-beam? all that iron is going to be heavy to move around
Lasse Langwadt Christensen My design was predicated on the materials I had on hand (almost). I agree that the amount of mass is a concern. I am worried about belt strain and the speed of acceleration I will be able to achieve. I'm will have plenty of motor. Swapping in an aluminum extrusion will be something to keep in mind. ~P
Thank you for the video DO you think that work on a setup that like the cross-cut set up the cross arm ties on one side
I used to drill hundreds if not thousands of holes for aviation assembly. I was not one of the fabrication experts at all but I devised a little jig that allowed me to predrill the angle supports which wrapped around the inside of the fuselage. Perfect 1" OC holes. Used the same jig to slot one side of the angle that needed to flex with the fuselage radius. The business owner's father thought my jig was ingenius. But the owner and his pet fab expert didn't like it because they didn't come up with the idea. So they called me all kinds of nasty names. And I mean nasty. Horrible place to work. I also developed a bell crank in 15 minutes to solve their aileron dilemma that the designer had been working on for 6 months.
we have a 5'x20' cnc plasma table at work from the late 90s and it has a 2x2 1/4" wall steel tubing on one side with 2"d * 3/4" rollers & on the other side there's a polished piece of bar or tubing. it's a lot less "precision" compared to other cnc machines, for plasma there is a wide margin of error, the servos are doing the precision work, not so much the guides.
hey after watching your videos it appears that you will only have one rail running between the 2 rails on each side. From your prototype of the head carriage are you getting any lash in the y direction on your x carriage or is the spring tension enough to keep that pivot out of play when the weight of the torch is hung on the side? I understand that the v bearings should take care of that im just wondering if they actually do. I love your design and your fusion work is great!
I had the same question...how much can you torque one of those plates with the two spring mounted rollers before it goes out of horizontal / lifts one of the upper rollers slightly off the rail? I guess with enough spring tension it won't happen but the spring in the video looked fairly stretchy.
I can move the entire carriage from one side and there is plenty of strength to stay on the rails. I'm confident that with both sides being driven, that I will have no issue. Time will tell.
Given that there is very little resistance to rolling motion and the ability to push it from one side and have everything stay in place, I don't expect any issue. I haven't made any additional progress yet to say more definitively. Most I can say right now is it all looks good. I will post more videos as work progresses. ~P
Great video! What is the part number and make of the bearing you used and where can I find them? Thanks!
Here is an affiliate link to the Amazon list where you can find the bearings. Good luck in your build. amzn.to/2WCbBYH
what kind of plate is this where I put the bearings ... would it be easy to find here in Brazil? This plate needs to be rounded on the bearing parts ...
I am planning to build a "hobby-grade" DIY 6040 sized CNC router, using a cheap 500W spindle, or trim-router. I had dismissed V bearings as probably having too much axial end float. Your carriages look better than I expected... could you please confirm they would not be a good idea for my application.
Thanks for another really useful video, the explanation on your thought processes and feedback on how it worked out, is invaluable. Liked, subscribed some years ago.
I would not go this route for a router or spindle machine. The radial loading of the cutter will cause a significant lack of precision. Precision your machine would otherwise be capable of. Because my use is for a plasma table, I don't have any side load. It I built my router again I would swallow the price and go right to using hiwin style rails and ball screws. Good luck. ~P
@@sbirdranch : Thanks for taking the time. That confirms I was on the right track. I have no "need" for this machine, so if I take the time and money to build it I should try to ensure I get satisfaction from the result. I guess I am another one of those suckers who think they can build a Tormach alternative from plywood and bent wire. RUclips is full of us! :o)
So I was wondering have you done any advancements on your design, that looked pretty good?
I am just getting back to it. As I noted in my last video, I don't get much time in the shop outside of winter. I should have the next video out in a couple weeks. Thanks for asking. ~P
@@sbirdranch What size are the bearings? and where did you get them?
@@bobreichel Amazon....doesnt everything come from there??? www.amazon.com/dp/B00H5713L6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-sAdCb229TAG3
I assume this wouldnt work for a cnc router well? Just because any load on the bottom bearings from a pluge cut motion would cause flexing of the rubber band?
It might depend on the weight of the carriage. If you make it heavy enough it will be probably be fine
@@funmaster4632 definitely, if you look at something like the maslow cnc router it relies only on the weight of the sled to keep the router in place, and seems to work fine even at an angle
U r great
its good idea i will try it
put it is not Moving from place؟
spring i mean
Thank you Preston for sharing this! I am curious what brand of v-groove bearing you are using/recommend? And do you know what size bolt/axle it fits on? Thanks again! :)
I'll get you the specs and a link tomorrow.
sbirdranch Thanks so much!
I didn't forget you. Life has just gotten in the way. ~P
Ben, Below is an associates link to a partial list of items I have used for my CNC plasma. The VBearings are in the list. I used a 3/8 should bolt for mounting mine. I also purchased some precision shims off eBay to take out any slop. Hope this helps. eBay took away their 'saved list' function so I lost all the items I have purchased from them. ~P
amzn.to/378aEMF
sbirdranch Thank you for the link and information. I’m looking forward to trying out the bell crank mechanism. What a neat idea it is!
DANKE
What screws did you use for the wheels?
They are shoulder bolts. 3/8 with 5/16 threads
Would you think this rail design would work for a cnc router?
No. It is neither rigid enough, nor accurate enough.
you are a fucking genius!! thankss for the idea
High praise. Thanks. ~P
may i ask what size v bearings you used?
RM2-2RS 3/8"
I like your design. You could simplify it by mounting all 4 bearings in the plate with the lower bearings near corners Then drill a hole above the lower bearings 3" back from each side and saw a slot from the side of the plate into the hole to create a flex arm. This would not be as adjustable as your design but the width of the flat stock should be close enough for the small flexure.
Also a simple jig could be built to mount an angle grinder and pass the flat stock through to grind a consistent bevel on all 4 corners.
PS. Your hand crank post drill looks a bit too high to use....
Those are some interesting ideas. I especially like the grinder jig thought. And yes. The drill is a b! At the top of the crank stroke ;)
MY plasma CNC machine is at about the same stage as yours. The cold has put a hold on installing the cable ways, wiring and electronics. This is my 5th CNC project counting the 1980 Bridgeport BOS5 milling machine CNC retrofit. It looks like we have many similar interests and projects in the machine shop. It would be interesting to collaborate on the CNC.
@@chuckinwyoming8526 I understand the cold thing being here in OH. The section of my building this machine will go in is currently unheated. Hence this build is going on in my wood shop. I am excited to get it done. I have the torch mount and z axis complete (floating head magnetic mount) and 80% of the wiring. Once in operation I'm sure I will find improvement areas just like I have on my router. I'd just like to put it to some use in the end. I have about enough space for a cnc mill but I'm not going to build that. Maybe we can come up with something to collaborate on, even if jjt is just a component to a machine. ~P
supper
🤣🤣😂😍😘🥰 Nice dog I wish to have it sooo cute
Wouldn´t it be easier to weld two "L" profiles on the top and bottom of the 2" square tube? Thanks.
Easier is subjective. It would work for sure. ~P
@@sbirdranch Anyway, excellent job!
it feels like I am his CNC psychologist and he needs to just talk through his problems to me.
You would need to make the adjustment solid not a spring.. If you use a spring the entire gantry would lift unless the springs were much stronger than the weight shift of the gantry when it moves and stops.. A turnbuckle style adjustment would be far better as you could preload the beearings and it wouldnt have any give to it..
This is going on a plasma table. It wouldn't work on a spindle machine as well. Plasma pantries have no force applied to them in cutting.
Isn't this exactly how CNCRP machines work
Julius Jahn Maybe. As I mentioned in the video, I have never seen a commercial machine but did take clues where I caught them.
What a nice drill press. I totally support your efforts and to just say no to China man and his CNC products.
To be fair you could get a pair of 1000mm linear bearings with 4 sliding blocks for $34 and it would still be 10x better than what he is building with hot rolled steel and rubber bands. I mean those shoulder bolts and ball bearings ain't cheap man. Why go through all the trouble?
It seems that round linear rod would be a better choice than hot rolled plate with so many inconsistencies, twist, etc... for any amount of accuracy. Your tramm is so important unless your cutting tiny parts or working with wood where it may not matter so much any metal will show the rails inconsistency in the finished work. Those bearings are already used in purchased rail systems that use a offset screw head for tensioning and setting them precise where there is no forgiveness. Having used a plate of tool steel with precision ground edges you could significantly improve accuracy as well machining the mounting face of the square tubing before mounting. As someone stated the Chinese rails are cheap and probably a better alternative for what you’re investing. Long precision rails can be had for $70. Cost of metal these days and bearings would easily approach that cost. The premise is correct the implementation is not.
I totally disagree... but that is what this is all about. Precision linear rails for a plasma table would have a very short life outside of being overkill....again...plasma table. The dirt and grit from this type of cutting gets everywhere. I sure wouldn't want it in even cheap SB20 round rails. Now...again...plasma table here....Z axis height is moot. Throw in a THC and any vertical inconsistencies are erased. As for X and Z axis, I have removed any appreciable wave by bolting it to some fairly straight tubing. After that it is all up to the precision of your motion control setup. This is where I have the least confidence in my design. We'll find out soon enough.
Glenn Edward: I think that chasing sub-micron precision is over-the-top for a plasma cutter... cost and durability are more important. This gentleman has already made a number of videos on building a CNC router, which used round supported rails and ballscrews. Well worth a look.
whats his website?
Sbirdranch.com
Lag